My Cheap Mercedes S550 Really Broke - Oil in Engine Wiring Harness Repair!

[@RAL13Y]

Great video Randy and Mike. Hey Randy did you call Alex from Legit Street Cars ? He owes you one, after helping him out with his Corvette.

[@AutoAuctionRebuilds]

Him and I had a deal and he backed out with no notice so I won't rely on him. He agreed on camera to have me flown to Chicago to assist in fixing the C4 up. He did it without me with no notice. Pretty sad really, I was a long time subscriber.

[@dylanash2569]

@@AutoAuctionRebuilds Thats not right. Just goes to show that its hard to trust people these days. Sad

[@neilmurphy845]

​@@AutoAuctionRebuildsthat is pretty sad .

[@SouthsideKidd550]

Alex from LSC just isnt the same person he was after Peter left. I dont know what happened between those two but since Peter has been gone, his content isnt as good as it was. Plus I can sense a lil bit of "assholeness" from him. If you go to one of his videos where him, Peter and Max go to Kansas to buy Hoovie's red CTS-V wagon, as Peter gives the car the beans, look at Alex's facial expressions. They werent pleasant at all. I get that people go through things but dont let life hiccups hinder your work and talent. I unsubbed from his channel. The only way I stay subbed is if the content is good with humor and great knowledge. I love learning about all types of cars, foreign and domestic.

[@strykerman8590]

@@AutoAuctionRebuilds wow, I’m in Chicago, I’ll go break his knee caps for ya…….. just kidding, but I really am sad to hear that about him.

[@MonkeyWrenchMike]

This video was actually a lot of fun to make. Love love love that W222.

[@AutoAuctionRebuilds]

There was no time for monkeying around in this video for sure! Good times man thank you for all your help!

[@williamsinger4124]

Did you hear that randy has an s class?

[@SouthsideKidd550]

@@williamsinger4124 😂😂😂 I gotta get like him...I love Randy's jokes!

[@billstreber5194]

To get a perspective from somebody that used to be a Mercedes mechanic I was just wondering if you got a hold of Alex over at legit street cars he knows these babies inside and out and in fact doesn't he owe you one? The time you purchased the vet that he wanted so bad time to cash in

[@AutoAuctionRebuilds]

We had some plans but he didn’t come through for me so I won’t be asking for help on this one.

[@slsmaster]

In Germany there is a specialized repair shop, which is even called by MB themselves, which offers special cable adapters to stop this from happening again. They are called Motoren Zimmer. The product is called Öl-Stop Kabel. They even have a KZbin Channel very popular in Germany under MB fans. They simply know every screw in MB cars of the past 30 years or so.

[@papapapa6689]

yap, exactly, aber Du glaubst doch nicht wirklich, dass Randy Interesse hat, es RICHTIG zu machen, oder? Grüße

[@slsmaster]

@@papapapa6689 Die Hoffnung stirbt zuletzt 😅

[@gerardo1560]

It's called stupid as sorry

[@Charlie_Crown]

@@papapapa6689 but he's already fitted four cable adapters in this video for the purpose of preventing any further oil wicking through the wiring

[@shwndh]

I vaguely remember this happening with transmission wiring on MB too. Oil would travel up the wiring loom, into the car can kill the TCM under the center console. Very weird problem.

[@DoYouLikeToastToo]

Hey, I was a German car mechanic for a decade. One thing about cam position sensor faults is they sometimes continuously get diagnosed as electrical issues when in reality they are a mechanical issue. Something like timing being slightly off, but not on the timing belt, rather camshaft to camshaft. There is a chain that connects the cams together that is also timed, usually by number of teeth between links. You can compare side to side or find repair manual information. These chains can stretch over time, and also the adjuster on the cam itself can spin causing the timing to be off. If the issue is electrical, seeing as how the value remains pegged to a max value indicates either a short or an open circuit, you can check by doing a voltage drop from the sensor back to the control module. Or a resistance test at the very least. But the max value is likely a fail safe position based on a mechanical issue. Good luck and hope this gets to you.

[@mrwebber35]

I'm #15 like... Thank you for confirming this. If it is an open circuit just unplugging the sensor would give the same issue. Checking the wiring isn't rocket science. I am beside myself watching this.

[@haskellburks]

Hello Randy and Mike aka Monkey Wrench Mike. It's awesome that SP Euro that sent you the parts to fix your Mercedes S550. And sponsoring this video.

[@rafaelbetancourt3551]

The dynamic duo! Randy definitely has the Merc bug same as Mike 👍🏼 keep bringing those Euro Cars in the channel🎉

[@Vetteman372]

I like the videos when you're working on the cars. Much better than. The used car check up. At Copart.

[@fasteddy917]

I hope someone has a way of repairing the problem. The great part of course is that you prevented the problem from getting any worse. As always it's great to see you and Mike working on it together. Great and informative video as always. Thank you both.

[@ronnymb67]

"Fluid migration" in the harness goes back to the 140 Chassis. We saw it frequently push transmission fluid up into the TCM. Seems to be a German thing because I also saw Mk 4 Jettas push coolant all the way to the instrument cluster 😂 As for the camera. Always make sure the radar disk in the grill and the windshield in front of the forward facing cameras is always clean. They can also act up in inclement weather such as rain or snow covering the rear sensors behind the bumper.

[@tenmillionvolts]

Oil is typically non conductive. You can run the electrical system while emersed in oil. It looks like you have a different problem. Maybe the engine is slightly out of time

[@golfmaniac007]

i also think its timing issue. i had similar issues like this on a VW. i threw parts and cleaning at it hoping one would stick. i was running the VW with check engine light on. eventually the timing chain jumped or locked up. it happening after going up a steep hill at high rpm. who knows if that was the cause but thats my theory LOL.

problem is the oil will leach itself into the ECM harness

[@tenmillionvolts]

True, but you wouldn't have any symptoms, just a sticky mess. Oil doesn't conduct electricity

[@toddfilo]

@@tenmillionvolts Clean oil maybe, but it's isn't clean now is it. Plus, potentially, copper dust and/or oxide on the wires that the oil drags with it. People don't have issues until it gets to the ECU plug and soaks the other pins, then full 12V trons from some pins are able to flow to wires that run very little current. Eg; your cam sensor or O2. It can also bleed into the ECU, down the pin wires and onto the board. Who knows what all is happening in there, or where oil will end up and put trons where they shouldn't be.

[@2003cobramustang]

Good thing you had mike with you! So true Randy if it had no check engine I’d be real worried!

[@kevinmc360]

Hi Guys. With an Ohm meter and the key off. Pull the connector off from a from a good sensor. Check the resistance between the sense wire pair on a good sensor. My guess it should be between 100 ohm and 1K ohm. Write the result down. Now compare the resistance measurement on the same two pins on the sensor with the issue. If the resistance measurement is the same the issue is with the connector. If the resistance is open or infinity or different by more than 5% I would suspect the DME. To verify DME is the problem and not the sense wire pair. Check continuity on the suspect wire pairs from the sensor connector pins to the corresponding DME connector pins. Patience and persistence trouble shooting wiring. You will find it, Get a schematic for the wiring harness. I would never pull the engine to solve this problem. My background is Jaguar engine management wiring harnesses and Aerospace wiring harnesses.

[@Sbrillo43]

Randy! You, Santa and Mike should do a series like Car Trek with cheap cars!

[@MonkeyWrenchMike]

Great idea!!

[@SouthsideKidd550]

Exactly! Do a car trek with cars that people can afford and drive everyday. They can do some old 80s,90s and 00s cars. Some extreme high milege series. Do a series on get some ragged out cars from the auction in Indiana and see if they will make it back to Oklahoma. Yea, I think they would do great with creating a Car Trek type series. They can call it something like "Auction Clunkers" or "Back 2 Life".

[@Scotts23]

I would personally absolutely love that because the 3 of them together are so good extremely funny they just bounce off each other it just works, A.A.R M.W.M AND SANTA'S WORKSHOP JOINED TOGETHER TO MAKE A SUPER CHANNEL DOING 1 OR 2 VIDEOS A MONTH ASWELL AS THEIR OWN PERSONAL CHANNELS OF COURSE WHAT A BEAUTIFUL THOUGHT IF I DO SO SAY IT MYSELF

[@yntenseinfo]

Agree! Totally.

[@justcommenting224]

Disconnect the sensor and all ECU connectors. Then set the multimeter to "beep" for connectivity. You then put one of the probes to a terminal of the sensor connector. Then draw the probe over all the terminals in the ECU connector, you will hear a short beep at the corresponding ECU pin.

[@LogicalLighting]

And measure resistance. Compare to others.

[@tschuuuls486]

Lol. Or just pay for a days license of AllData and save a ton of time and guesswork.

[@uptownfragrance6148]

Please explain ​@@tschuuuls486

[@hookmaster1551]

I'm no tech. But here is my thoughts. The value 46 deg is probably a max value that the car computer can handle and it throws a fault code. It is just out of range. And looking at the video that value doesn't change at all when engine running. Looking at FCP page the camshaft adjuster/sprocket is clamped with a bolt to the camshaft. Since it is be belived to have the timing kit done. The cam could be in the right position BUT the sprocket could have ended up in the wrong position (since it is variable) when installed, making the magnet? on the sprocket pass the sensor at the wrong time/angle. To check the signal wiring for that sensor, cross connect the right hand sensor wire with the left intake cam sensor. Then you can determine if there is any fault in the harness. If you have a good reading there is no problem with the wiring.

[@TheJopa7]

This is correct. The value is at the maximum end and that's why it's fixed. This is not the harness but a mechanical issue

[@scottb7963]

After watching these videos I took my 2015 S550 with 96,000 miles into a shop to get the cam sencors changed and they found one that was just starting to leak. They cleaned it and told me it was caught in time. They also said it was a big problem. Thank you so much for your videos!

[@YoungAmzn]

@@scottb7963 why do these sensors leak in the first place? Is it the O seal on the actual sensor itself

[@scottb7963]

@@YoungAmzn I think it is the sensor itself, because the o-ring would not allow oil into the wiring harness. From my understanding, they should have had a recall for these sensors but didn't.

[@YoungAmzn]

@@scottb7963 oh ok so they have replaced yours

[@scottb7963]

@@YoungAmzn Yes I changed them at around 90,000 miles. I did not change them myself, but the shop that I went to said that one had already started leaking. He also knew about this sensor problem. I had him change all 8 of them.

[@scottb7963]

There are 4 cam position sensors and 4 cam magnets.

[@michelvandenbroek4168]

Randy don’t care what the say you are a great mechanic. Love your videos👍👍👍

[@AutoAuctionRebuilds]

Thank you

[@andrewherrera2736]

man the jokes and commentary you and MWM pull never get old i laugh all the time i hear you two guys toguether

[@williamcochell9889]

Hey Randy, too bad, you can’t keep that Mercedes! Great to see the dynamic duo added again! You’re still the best!

[@TonyMontana-tm7ul]

I'm glad you have good friends to help, but 15k is not necessarily incredibly cheap to most of us. 😅

[@msschill]

This is a new-ish luxury sedan that was over $100k not too long ago. $15k is 1/3 the price of the avg new car price.

[@rick5976]

I would trace the tan/black wire from the sensor side, get as close to the computer as you can and replace it. It won't cost you anything but a piece of wire and a little time. Hopefully you don't need to de-pin and get all the way into the main harness.

[@scottjoesting601]

Piece of black tape over light problem solved

[@RyanRoadReaper]

If left unfixed, it'll ruin the ECU.

[@almanos8609]

Yep I did it with my Opel Astra And I have no issues anymore 😀 Best of all it's passed the annual inspection 😀

[@johnoksys7713]

Thanks For Another Good & Entertaining Video Randy & Mike Good To See You Wrenching Together In A Video I Always Enjoy The Road Trips & The Walk Arounds

[@bigalsbikeandauto]

Love seeing you and monkeypox wrenching together! So frustrating all of that and still not fixed!

[@WildDigger]

Use both cans of the electrical cleaner from both ends of the loom over a few days. Keep 1 end elevated so it can reverse drain to make sure it all comes out. It may take days.

[@YoungAmzn]

So when you fix this and spray it you have to leave it sit and don’t put it back together for a few days?

[@WildDigger]

@YoungAmzn you can dry it with compressed air. Or let it sit for about an hour. If it is hot out it will dry faster.

[@James-dm6ey]

Continuity check from the harness side of the sensor to the ECU. That way you get the correct wire. Splice in a jumper and check your issue. You'll either confirm your diagnosis, or may be a mechanical issue.

[@michaelcrockette8694]

it’s not like it’s ur only vehicle and u depend on it for everything. if u can’t keep it for good just keep it for a little longer and enjoy it. it’s a beautiful ride.

[@ostus23]

Check to see if chain stretched by checking TDC if chain not stretched, change intake camshaft phaser.

[@bwolper]

Another fantastic video! I will look forward to see if you eventually figure it out. Hoping for the best.

[@carlpowell8878]

While unplugged from the computer and the sensor, do a continuity test to isolate all three wires. Test all 3 wires from plug to plug, and between those three circuts to check for short or any resistance issues. You can even compare readings from the other cylinder bank. Just use the same guage wires and same pins, replace those three wires, and you can do a factory repair. It's easy to de-pin the conecctors. I'm ASE master certified.

[@rickstevens6787]

the piece in the center of the grills is the distronic radar sensor for the cruise control.

[@capn_shawn]

I've got a M278 engine with check engine lights for the last 60,000 miles. It is NOT the wiring harness. Oil is an insulator and with the PUR wire covers, the wires will not short, even if you dipped them in a can of oil. If it were shorted, you would not be getting -28 degrees of timing... you will be getting nothing. The problem you (and I) have is that the cam-angle pickup "flag" is just a piece of steel pressed onto the end of the camshaft. This works loose over time and spins on the camshaft to show a major angle that the cam phaser cannot advance enough to get back into time. Most people replace a bunch of sensors, cam solenoids and other worthless things just to find out that it's really a much more painful job than you think it is. My M278 runs... not perfect, but it runs. Last M278 / M276 I plan on owning, that is for sure.

[@detroitballer99]

Thanks for the tips I just checked the plug harness on my S550 thankfully they are dry. I am about to order the harness extensions Just to stay on the safe side Thanks again.

[@SwiftRIBSAust]

Very smart

[@kevinwright1551]

Keep up the great work you guys. Doing a awesome job.

[@Iam_Yu627]

Fcp is my go-to. M278 is a great engine. WIS calls for oil extraction from the top. At least it does on my E550 anyway. Would have liked more details on replacing the hall sensors. But overall, a fair video.

[@Stphn-C6Z06]

Not sure if this issue was ever resolved, but my guess is that it is, or was, a cam adjuster. Had the same issue on one of my cars, which had a different engine. Mercedes said it would cost up to $14,000 to fix depending on the issue. They also tried to sell me a used engine for $20,000. The car had 140k on it at the time. Took to an Indy garage and they said the issue had to be fixed by Mercedes. This was after I had already changed all of the sensors and magnets myself. Bought a new adjuster from FCP Euro, installed it and solved my problem.

[@jm9782]

I dont have a euro vehicle currently, but FCP seems like a great company. The attention to detail they have is awesome!!

[@rebeltvr6046]

Your friend who helped you fix your car he has a bouncy personality. Seems like a cool guy.

[@karlmuller44]

Very enjoyable video and nicely done time laps, too - so cool to see you save these cars! Do you still need the pinhead for the ecu? I might be able to mail it to you - anyway, thanks for the great video!

[@LoSGaines]

What is a Mercedes wire core made out of, Italian bread? Is it not copper core? How can engine oil foul a wire core? I’ve seen it short out circuit boards and sensors but never wiring. Transmission internal wires are submerged in tranny oil. Fuel pump wires are floating in gasoline. Is that just another planned obsolescence thing? What am I missing here?

[@toddfilo]

The wire could care less, but it wicks oil up the wire over time and it ends up at the ECU plug where all kinds of other wires are. If the oil were clean it probably wouldn't matter, but it isn't clean. It has metal, carbon and who knows what in it from the engine. That plug has some wires/pins with a full 12+V, and some like your cam sensor or O2 that run off very little current. It isn't like putting 12V straight on those sensitive wires, it's just a little bit of current that bleeds over, but if the part only operates on a little, then you just hozed the reading. Or you pump too much current into the ECU pin that does that sensitive reading, and poof, you lost a chip. Oil can also wick directly into the ECU, down the pin wires and onto the board, netting the same problems... As for the trans; any wires that could get oil on them shouldn't matter. If the computer is in the pan it should be well sealed. If the computer is external, then, in some cases, it can see the same problem with oil wicking. I'd imagine tranny fluid is fairly conductive, but I've never checked. Certainly more metal, but no carbon, so who knows. Gasoline is pretty clean, unless maybe your tank is nasty rusty, but they you probably have bigger issues :o Those cam sensors and adjusters shouldn't leak oil, but they do. I saw a pix online of one with a split on the tip, but mine leak pretty bad and they look perfect. So however it gets in, it does in fact get in. Which now makes me wonder about the tranny ECU that is "sealed", so thanks for planting that seed :p

[@thatslowjag]

I’m a benz tech and I’m gonna be honest, that’s exactly how we do it. 8mm wrench and lots of patience. But I seem to remember those solenoids easily sliding in and out of the head. Weird you had to pry

[@LaitinenVeeti]

That is probably moved camshaft. M278s have issues with the camshafts sprockets moving from the cam itself. It needs to barely move which is why its still running but sensor is not reading values because its cannot reach reading disk.

[@Scotts23]

Randy i think you scared mike being aggressive with the plastic engine parts you know that Mercedes cars are Mike's babies great video loved every minute

[@supertip777]

Go for the wire, don't give up @Randy.

[@johnaclark1]

The proper technique on those is to remove the filter before or while draining the oil to allow that oil to run into the pan. You need only unscrew it and lift it up a bit and the oil will run down the filter drain. Otherwise there's a good amount of oil still up in the filter housing that doesn't get drained out.

[@rohitbhardwaj7197]

Great Video, love watching your content from the UK. Keep the car :)

[@stans1058]

Explain how does the oil that gets past connector insert destroys the cable harness. Does it erode the insulation and contribute to shorts? It would seem you could just replace the connector end.

[@DanMegistos]

Great couple here! I love Mike’s videos but the two of you make a great couple indeed! Mercedes has been doing the “clever” thing of putting the computer above the motor since 2007 (My 2007 C350 Sport has it in its M272).

[@KevinOstler-s1z]

I had the same problem on my 14 S550. I watched your video and did all the same things you did with the same result. Then I noticed when I would first start it up there was a rattling noise for just a few seconds. I learned that this was from a worn cam adjuster. So I dug deeper and changed all four of those, but as I was in there I checked the alignment marks between the reluctor wheels and cams. The bank one intake wheel had walked about an 1/8 of an inch. Probably due to the startup rattle. After everything was back together, same code just no rattle. I finally was able to tap the reluctor back into place through the oil filler hole and no more code. Maybe yours was like that as well.

[@mikimiki195]

Get ready to replace your driver side engine mount soon Good luck with that 😅 You have two options recommended by Mercedes engine out or sub frame down. Or you can take disconnect exhaust by down pipe and get access like that

[@kenstyle6]

“You “auto” remember that” “That’s it don’t run it again” Mike is hilarious 🤣🤣🤣👍🏻👍🏻

[@tompena7487]

That's a beautiful Mercedes and love watching thanks to both Randy and monkey pocs mike

[@justcommenting224]

Made a quick interner search, Mercedes workshop online manuals seems to be available for a reasonable price. You should get your wiring diagram from there. By the way, new terminals are probably available from Mercedes. I would have manufactured a completely new cable between the sensor and ECU. Only tricky thing, is to get the terminal disassembly tool for thw ECU connector terminals, but a Mercedes workshop should be able to remove the terminals.

[@RoadsterLoverMedia]

Tell us about your scan tool. Lifetime apps? BiDirectional? Make Keys? Code new modules? Cost? Thanks.

[@seangreene64]

It’s going to take a few cleanings of the wires before it disappears. Been through this on my c180 w294 in-line four

[@mintech1000]

this case is pretty interesting. I wonder how you guys fixed. Every other video on here fixes it. By the way just subscribed. great content. is there a "part 3" video I cannot find?

[@talkinboutchronicpain]

Always something with the imports , I'm sure one of your viewers will have an answer , i would keep the benz as a company vehicle , need something nice to ride when your body needs a break , great content again and great company, MRM is a great addition to your channel , keep up the great work and laughs , peace

[@danielemerson6066]

I enjoyed this video parts 1&2. I just (emotionally) bought a 2014 MB CLS550. With only 43k miles. I didn't think leaked oil would be an issue. This is a carmax warranted MB. Well 13 days into the purchase MB dealership flagged 1 top intake camshaft angle sensor having oil in it. The other 7 sensors I don't think were looked at, just the one. No check engine light yet. If I get all 8 camshaft sensors with their wire harnesses replaced. Should I keep it? Again no check engine light and carmax warranted. Should I walk awa

[@josephguastella8037]

Check your E55o cab same issues with oil wicking , FCPEURO has a sacrificial plug to prevent wicking to ECU

[@jaybones614]

They make some offset crowfoot wrenches for diesel injector bolts that would definitely work on that bolt

[@richchester187]

Watching the oldish oil come out at the end was well strange. It looked like a solid object. Also What about any oil that was already half way up the wire ?

[@Motorsportsgeek]

I told you last video, your camshaft has moved physically. You have a mechanical issue not electrical. M278s have issues with the camshafts sprockets moving from the cam itself. Your's just barely moved which is why its still running.

[@bronzoso]

Check basic position of timing through the camshaft position sensor holes. Suggest also checking presence of oil at the motor electronics (ECU) on top of the engine.

[@Motorsportsgeek]

@@bronzoso Dealers and shops bank on this issue, they throw the parts been at it and then find out they need a camshaft.

[@James-dm6ey]

​@@bronzoso he did that in the video

[@r.e.krealestate23]

Mike is the Best so funny now im going over to watch his new video Blessings..

[@bug702]

Have you repaired it? When you did the first repair video I noticed the connector pins wire looked to wide its probably giving you the intermediate issue, if not do a resistance test from end to end

[@stevejones1318]

I have an SLK200 with the M271 4 cyl engine. How do I know if oil is in the harness? I know it's common on this engine. I've already replaced the cam magnets.

[@mahatma171]

Wish I could help. Wiring issues are not new to me. I have saved quite a few wiring harnesses in my time, latest being the engine harness in my 94 Cadillac Sedan DeVille that mice ate through before I bought it.

[@DachsAutos]

Loved the video! Great to see you two solving the worlds problems, one broken car at a time! :) Sick car too!

[@sonnyshaw3962]

Randy you did everything perfect except making a new jumper harness to replace the cam sensor wiring between the cam senor and the DCM. That would stop the check engine light from coming back on and the problem would be fixed.

[@maverickflint1991]

Thanks to Mike the Mercedes doctor 😊👍

[@user-td1ge9by9v]

How do I know how far this problem has gotten? I just bought an M157 and I believe to have this problem as I just had a similar code pop up!

[@benetaue]

On the 157 the cam adjuster needs rework or replace after 50k you will hear a clanking noise we you start the car. Do it

[@toolzshed]

Yayyy wrenching on the Benz!!! It wasn't so bad 😀 edit: you could try tracing the wire, I bet you can do it and it'll work 🤘🏽🔥 You got this Randy!!!

[@davidsinn5758]

Reminds me changing the IVM on my 650i no play on the wiring harness on RHD. I bent pins plugging connectors back in from underneath blind, somehow I manage to straiten back up and plug em back in. I got lucky.

[@laquantheevolver]

been watching you for a while, happy to watch your videos very informative and funny believe it or not

[@benlee6500]

Tackling the oil leaks on your S-class with Monkey Wrench Mike is a good start 👌 ....with all the parts available, time to fix it right, first time....Randy you can fix it..whatever it takes....

[@MonkeyWrenchMike]

Thanks Ben!!

[@JonUF02]

I'll say it's definitely not the problem of oil in the harness. My ML63 with the related M157 V8 had oil all the way to the main ECU connection. I never got any cam codes. Cleaned up both ends, replaced the cam sensors that were leaking through, no problems. Checked again after a few hundred miles and no new oil found in connectors. Previous comments from more experienced techs says the cam sprocket is out and cam needs replaced.

[@danielallen512]

Take a multimeter and connect one side to the sensor, take the other end and connect to each pin of the computer harness. When you find one that reads a resistance IE 0 ohm (maybe higher if damaged) you have the pin that is used. Replace that wire with another (splice it in) and try, I bet the light goes out then

[@philjames9076]

randy you shoud keep the mercedes s550 the engine is good to half million miles i love the music

[@TechBurnoutelite]

What make and model is the new scanner? Looks awesome

[@ny4i]

How many miles were on that engine? I’m curious as I have a 2014 I picked up in Sindelfingen but it only has 60,000 miles on it. Also, the lane keeping assist uses the camera at the top of the windshield. With the hood open, it can’t “see”.

[@maverickflint1991]

That was a lot of work done but she is going to run like brand new now!!!

[@jinpan8105]

I have the same problem with '15 S63. I fixed this by pulling out the pisn in the ECU connector and soldering a replacement. I can see clearly which pin is affected since they have oil stains on them. The oil has ruined elasticity of the pin for making a good connection. Also the cam sensor/adjuster connector should be replaced. oil wont really destroy the wire itself. It destroys the connector in making a good contact. How did Mercedes get away without doing the same recall on S-class. this issue was known in 2010 or earlier!

[@omar27834]

Did the magnet fail on the camshaft pulley? That was the issue on my s550 I bought a red light car and boy was it costly

[@AutoAuctionRebuilds]

We replaced all 4 magnets in this video

[@NeluCiorba]

we have 2019 year s class, do you know if this still could be an issue? Tks for such videos!

[@maxtaylor5568]

Just had this happen on a M157 E63 amg wagon. The dealer has shown me pictures of oil in the connectors to the mcu. They of course want to replace everything an outrageous expense. Any chance that cleaning the contacts in the connector to the mcu may be sufficient? Car was running and driving with no problems aside form the check engine light which was the reason for the investigation.

[@Mr921kevin]

Was the KIT FREE?

[@jimrodcart]

Expensive car with cheap plastic,Good job Randy👍

[@neilmurphy845]

Could the sensor be moved a little bit maybe the pickup or is the timing off by only one tooth or maybe the computer has resistance in it from the oil just a guess.

[@P-J-W-777]

Anyone old enough to remember when you could work on your engine with pretty much basic hand tools in your garage and if you needed to drop your engine you could do it in an hour or so. Maybe 2 hours in some 90’s and very early 2000’s cars/trucks. All the government required equipment and massive computer systems has made working on modern engines such a pain in the butt. I’ve seriously thought about buying a nice 96-97 Chevrolet Silverado 9Had a 96 years ago and loved it) and completely restoring it and either doing a custom built engine or buying a really nice complete Texas Speed 427 to drop in it with the Holly EFI system. My reasoning is because I can easily work on and fix anything on that truck without issue and I always liked the looks.

[@amateurdesubaru]

stretched chain , worn chain guide(s) lining (s) , hydraulic tensionner near it s endstroke , next step timing component breakage

[@AutoAuctionRebuilds]

That’s absolutely not the case the entire timing set is brand new

[@aaronsookra2493]

Real question, what's your exhaust set up? That start up sounded good.

[@mrvette31.]

Me personally I think someone went in and messed with the timing and it is a little off with all of that work should have came some kind of result or change your problem is internally and I would even go to the car maybe overheated at some point and was fixed if you bought it at an auction more than likely the last dealer got stuck with it too by someone I'm a dealer myself and I know how those too good to be true ones are.

[@belencantu7200]

I would try spraying the sensor and ecu ends of the harness with contact cleaner and compressed air several times.

[@vintagehaynesflute]

It was a common problem on the W212 E class as well

[@robertmontgomery7158]

Did you post the repair kit number?

[@JamesDecker-hf5ih]

Great laminar flow while draining the oil!

[@johnciely8209]

What is the name of the scan tool you used on this car?

[@AutoAuctionRebuilds]

Link is in the description.

[@prblazerlunc4654]

Could it be the oil cause a short to the ecm? All i can think of is to swap the ecm.

[@billbrowse2553]

I like the video, but I believe the round parts are actually the cam advance solenoids, the smaller part is the cam sensor

[@TheHungryMammoth]

Ahh yess content for breakfast nice timing

[@rudyperez1772]

With the check engine light on, will the car pass inspection? Will Mercedes send you a engine top computer loaner to see if it fixes your current failure?