My Flatbed Is Rusting Out!!!!

Fixing some rust issues on the flatbed for the TDI Swapped Toyota Pickup!
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[@mattcaser6581]

I would use Fluid Film inside that tubing. It comes with a long flexible spray nozzle you can stick into those drain holes to completely coat the inside of the tubes. Awesome build you have there !

[@brianross4057]

A German friend told me they simply use transmission fluid mixed with tectyl , His explanation was that the trans fluid climbs into all the nooks and carries the tectyl with it and over time the trans fluid dries out leaving the tectyl forming a fatty layer sealing and protecting the hidden unpainted metal in the seams.

[@Andreveien]

Fluid film if the rust has started, sink dip when new

[@carmenjackson1972]

I actually discovered this channel with the TDI truck bed build. Nice to see it still lasting and getting some extra love! 🔥

[@austinniemela]

Thanks! She’s got to be perfect!

[@keatonsmith1058]

Paint the 2 parts being welded together, once you have them clamped up, grind off exactly where you will be welding, then paint what you can, just limits where rust can happen

[@dougsweldingfabrication953]

Austin.. you need to build yourself a gantry hoist. You're going to give yourself a hernia

[@55thhoe]

suggestion future flat bed build/fix: Make the plate steel removable from the bed frame. That way you have access to all edges. You could weld eyelets to the plate steel similar to a shock hoop/eyelet, then bolt it to the frame.

[@buildadventure404]

Austin, Thanks for your honesty! love that you showed your slight mistake so if we decided to build something similar maybe we wont make the same mistake!!! Even more respect for you and your channel! In the drain holes you might want to do that spray oil stuff for the inside to prevent rusting from the inside out.

[@douglasthompson2740]

The O2 in water, H20, is a source of all the 02 rust needs. So metal and moisture is all that is needed (there is more oxygen in water than in the air) for rust to go merrily on its voracious way. Designing spacers between your framing members and the skin so that it can be rinsed (dirt holds moisture) as well as painted initially is a good remedy. Remember OEM cars with seam sealer rust in those joints. In humid weather rust converters tend to stay damp for many days and then eat their way out from under your new paint. Some sort of artificial heat is needed to dry it thoroughly. There are paint systems like inorganic zinc (the key is the word systems-you have to use compatible components from whichever manufacturer you choose) that will form an ionic bond which actually travels to protect adjacent metal. Drawback is you need a type III sandblasted finish before commencing the painting. And you need to paint it right after it is sandblasted (leaving it even overnight will degrade the system. You do not want even flash rusting which happens immediately on bare metal.). So the application is expensive but it can work wonders as I have seen on large ships and it lasts for ten years or more in a highly corrosive environment. Semis with chains on them tear up a car deck and their is standing salt water on that bare metal which rusts immediately of course but by the next day it is completely 'healed' over. The process is called ionic transfer and can protect metal several inches away as long as the main coating has maintained is mill thickness. A less intensive method is to use Coal Tar Epoxy but it is nowhere near as effective and lacks the ionic bond as it is only a mechanical one. Washing the underside frequently to remove salt and dirt that holds moisture is helpful as well.

[@thomasmccabe3850]

Absolutely love this truck. I'm restoring a 93' ford f-superduty, and when I'm building my skirted flatbed I'll be referring to your videos a lot. Keep the work up, you'll blow up soon enough, im sure of it.

[@austinniemela]

Thanks man I appreciate it!

[@01AceAlpha]

Have the flatbed hot dip galvanized. They’ll acid dip it to remove any corrosion and the galvanizing will seal it all up. If they do a good job you could drag it down the road all the way home and it would be fine.

[@buildadventure404]

Hey Ace Alpha, Can they do this to a normal truck bed?

[@01AceAlpha]

@@buildadventure404 yes, as long as it can fit in the tank. The place I deal with can do anything from fasteners up to structural bridgework up 100’ long. They usually charge by weight.

[@buildadventure404]

@@01AceAlpha Just googled and to not a big surprise there is a place in Detroit which isn't too far. the truck bed is off a double cab Hilux, so basically same as Austin truck but a bed that is less than 5 feet long! I have some minor rust repairs but biggest concerns is there is a little rust in the seams. So if they acid dip it then galvanize, it could fix the problem. Do you know what they usually cost?

[@01AceAlpha]

@@buildadventure404 I usually deal with Pure Metal Galvanizing in Brantford Ontario. They quote by the job.

[@buildadventure404]

@@01AceAlpha only 5 hours away... but the border is closed... Ill keep it in mind and maybe call around for some quotes. Paint will stick fine to it correct? Haven't done much research because didn't realize it was an option.

[@justinpiper9371]

First, i would like to thank you for sharing your project with KZbin, your videos very informational and actually fun to watch. You have an awesome project going on there. I am actually about too embark on my first vehicular fabrication project myself. I'm putting a custom fabricated flatbed on a 1992 ford ranger 4 wheel drive. I am an iron worker by day, so structural steel but i started welding misc. metals like handrails, stairs, trellis's ECT...j I agree with you the weld through primer is a joke, But what you can do is use cold galvanizing compound (Post Weld) before you use your paint, it comes in a rattle can just like spray-paint and honestly Rustoleum is the best brand to use for this. However it is specifically designed for preventing rust by sealing metals that are for exterior use. It is an ugly gray color so you definitely want to paint it after but it bonds great to metal and it will last a life time. Also if you use 2k glamor clear coat after your paint, (using an acrylic automotive paint for best results) it has a hardener that you release into the can before spraying. it will leave a glossed hardened coat over the top. this stuff is meant to be put on fabrication machines, a mill bandsaw iron worker large press brakes ECT... it can really take a beating!!!! Either way it would be more for your next project, it appears you already did a great job with this one. Best regards,

[@Faithful_Tribe]

Thanks for sharing your honesty. Was real cute when Devin recently was repping your shirt while driving that guy’s Tacoma for a parts run.

[@xd9sc1]

3:08 "...I'm human...", says the guy with super-human fabrication, mechanical, electrical and body work skills! :-)

[@SOLDADITO76]

When I put my cab together first thin I did was wash the the entire cab top and bottom. I did this with it on the ground on 4x4’s with the nose of the cab pointing to the sky. Once it was dry I just hit the bottom of the cab (still on the4x4’s) with vehicle undercoating. Every surface, nook and crannies got sprayed with two thick coats. Finishing the job of with a coat of paint. Did this same process with the bed and the finished frame. I used an oil spray for inside of the frame, Toyota’s seem to need extra care in this particular area. Almost six years down the line and not one spot of rust, and after every trail ride mud just falls off with ease using a garden hose. Cool part is most of it falls off on the ride home, and yes my rig is a daily driver.

[@austinniemela]

Nice!!

[@jordanwhipple9089]

for future projects, you could use steel it, its a weld through paint that all the Prerunner and Baja guys use on their cages

[@patrickschliesing1294]

As someone who grew up living in Minnesota and dealing with rust from mile 0, I have learned to make my projects out of open channel or materials that are not enclosed. Instead of that square tubing I would have used medium duty angle iron, light C-channel, or fully enclose the tube with no open holes. Drainage and water runoff is key to anti-rust.

[@hawkie333]

Probably too late by the time of this filming, but fluidfilm will penetrate the cracks and do what you want. Boeshield is good too, penetrates then forms a wax layer. The rest of the bed should hold up fine since it was properly done with POR. I sprayed my truck with the turtlewax hybrid ceramic spray all over the body, and water/dirt just sheds right off. You might consider doing that too, so you can just spray off contaminants throughout the season. Let the paint cure and then put some sort of hydrophobic treatment on there and you’re golden.

[@joalaska7165]

Hey bro, Galvanize after welding or paint over seam sealer after priming....thats it. No rocket science. Your on the right track. Good work.

[@adventurousairman]

Fluid Film works better than pretty much any paint, you might spray in in the cracks after you paint it.....

[@conradapao1107]

Love the paint work. Just better

[@mattspevak7944]

Make your decking mechanically removable so you can paint the entirety of frame and decking. Anywhere you sandwich steel metal on metal like that it will rust. Honestly was wondering how you addressed this watching the build the first time around. Glad to see you getting into it now.

[@rapathyman]

3m controlled flow seam sealer ! Would have had to be done before bed liner. Also add a few holes in some of the tubes for wax oil. It's a rust inhibitor and seal the holes back up with a nice rubber plug. It will help cut down on rusting from the inside.

[@vincentschaub3686]

I caulk the seems before painting looks nice and works good to seal the tight corners that you can’t get product on or in

[@josephdejesus8125]

Nice work!

[@saltymethods2637]

Steel-It. Black spray paint that coats on heavy and still allows you to weld on it. I used it for my front suspension build. Works like they claim.

[@Will-No-Co]

When I have two overlapping plates welded together I will seam seal the left, right and bottom portions. Then I mix up a good epoxy paint and actually flood the two pieces using a small paint brush. I keep putting the paint on until it actually puddles at the top of the overlapping plates. It works well, but is kinda time consuming.

[@mr.diesel4484]

Awesome man awesome easy simple & beautiful yes I love

[@hawk270leadflinger9]

Slick rigg! And I really like those wheels....

[@Danman1972]

In the future you might look at coating things like that before welding with weld through primer. Will help stop the rust from forming.

[@mbcNOOFS]

best way to prevent the rust: have the weldment hod-dip galvanized after welding it and checking the fit. Leave holes in any tubes/closed geometry for the galvanizing dip to get in/out. Paint afterwards. Hands-down the best way for preventing rust on mild steel. Just don't weld on it again afterwards... Will be relatively expensive but it looks like you're used to spending some coin on building superior gear...

[@JEREMY120983]

aie! you did well to do it on time! 👍

[@dardoukLYS]

One learn from his mistakes, great job!

[@austinniemela]

True true! Thanks!!

[@stevanrose7439]

Your truck was trying to tell you something. When it coated the underside with oil. I have a 2002 Tacoma that the frame is rusting bad in some spots. And the way I’m trying to combat the rust is used motor oil. In a sprayer so I can put it where it’s needed.

[@PabloMcMartins88]

after 30 years of fighting this ..the only thing I found that works is plane old grease.. after your dried finish coat. Apply with a paint brush on the whole underside, and all the cracks/spaces fill with your grease gun. Kinda like applying caulk in the bathroom. Any places your not sure fill it with fluid film. You'll have to touch up over the wheels a few times, After a couple years I power wash it off and redo it but a little lights coat. You won't believe how well the steel beads off the water. It doesn't look real good, But it works and works well.......

[@vinnbrock]

I wish my mistakes look as good as yours!

[@bobthebuilder6315]

Austin I'm sorry to say it's the nature of the beast .I'm pretty sure the thinnest thing on your bed will way out last the rest of the truck.I'm from north west Pennsylvania the snow belt and the state uses tons of salt and calcium chloride,around here we oil undercoat every thing. Good luck buddy I hope what you're doing works and if it does please keep us posted I'm always looking for ways to fight RUST.

[@lonniehand1386]

I use the windshield caulk that you put wind shields in it works wonders to keep moister out

[@bxhhddby2191]

Now that's a good looking flatbed

[@Goldeal]

You should put a LED cargo light on the metal frame that would look dope

[@dylanevans9678]

When we build truck beds every crack and crevice gets welded solid. Go slow and hop around to keep warping down.

[@jaycevessier7554]

That’s exactly what I was going to tell him. Those tack welds aren’t it, you have to solid weld that shit

[@austinniemela]

@@jaycevessier7554 welding every joint solid is a bit excessive! Sean sealer is cheaper and less time consuming!

[@jaycevessier7554]

@@austinniemela yep, it just may be, but my dad always told me either do it right or don’t do it at all. Yes seam sealer is cheaper and easier but to me that’s doing it wrong

[@Bigtexbbq]

@@jaycevessier7554 lots of wisdom goes into that saying. Everywhere work is involved and somebody I know tried to cut corners there has almost always been backlash. Though in this case, I believe he built the bed the way he intended, rust aside. Built for his needs all things considered.

[@Tfr2135]

I work as mechanical engineer, we always weld those type of corners all the way closed. Your bed wil always rust this way. If welding the whole seam is not posible, we fill the seam with some kind of sealant before painting.

[@stevewhyte8476]

buy a 2 year old dodge truck, it will already be rusted out, and you won't have to worry about it !!

[@jimmadonna1436]

You should be good now. The frame rails look good! I was wondering about the frame and body rusting.

[@kyleottosen1021]

Everyone had their own opinion but steel-it is awesome for this stuff in the future. You can spray all your parts before welding together since you can weld over it and it's probably the most rust resistant coating there is.

[@austinniemela]

I might have to try this stuff!!

[@AlphaChimpEnergy]

Man you do great work.

[@kolohelau1185]

Looks good

[@hjvisagie]

Try TECTYL anti rust coating works awesome, even being used by OEM.

[@samfranks1021]

One of the best things is oil spray it but can be messy on a clean truck like that

[@jeffsedillos963]

I see this is a year old. I understand that. On the steel ships we use OSPHO. Phosphoric acid that treats rust (oxide) and forms it into a treated metal (can't remember what) but alters the steel. It might not stop rust forever but would slow it to 7-10 year rust issues. Also built a flat bed with the same issues. And just OSPHO everything to slow/stop the process. Air and oxygen always win long term.

[@justinbatchelor2418]

I think it is pretty cool that you can pressure wash inside your shop. I live in WA also and for me using a pressure washer or washing my truck is only done in summer. You have one sweet red Toyota man.

[@austinniemela]

Thanks man!!

[@ilovetoyotatrucks]

Use a exacto blade on the end you'll weld it will peel right up & not block contact to weld thrue it.... also every 1 should own a cordless brushless grinder by now just flap disk them edges and wipe with 91% rubbing alcohol!

[@eurobeatmachinist732]

Phosphoric acid works wonders and goes to the smallest cracks.

[@ttinnovations3310]

Seam sealer, epoxy primer, amazingly rustoleum paint works well and cheap, or $$ Por 15 paint, fluid film inside of the tubes and plug them, ( on the cheap chain bar oil in the inner tubes and plug them)

[@kameronday7645]

clean it out and run some clear silicone down the cracks. we bought a new dump trailer and thats what they do on the fender wells where the metal meets.

[@enricopolazzo33]

Spray all the internal cavities and seams with RP-342.

[@richardzetino3850]

Like the green truck. Good job

[@austinniemela]

Thanks 👍

[@jsvallee567]

paint the parts before welding just grind where you need to weld after that's what i do and it work dont know for you but here i got road salt so i put undercoating oil over that and its perfect !!

[@adrianlala5044]

Nice job

[@Jojoypipe04]

Hot dip galvanise. A bit to late now but if you keep having issues sand blast the whole bed and galvanised. after that a bit of sanding to remove the raft of galvanise and you can top coat it with raptor.

[@stevendouglas6593]

Maybe a gantry crane, as suggested by Doug, could be your next video series. You’re a great fabricator, it would be a very watchable project.

[@austinniemela]

I have thought about a crane setup, I do have a solid steel post in the shop I could use for it!

[@loganboyer8816]

I feel like the small crevices on the under side of the flat bed would be the ideal place for silicone. Or flex seal.

[@abpsd73]

Spray rust-check or fluid film inside your tube drain holes to help keeping the tubes from rusting from the inside out.

[@clickjustin4049]

For the future weld or bondo those seems and grind them into a nice bend so you can prime and bedline those.

[@smplyizzy]

You could get it Hot dip galvanized. Other than that you need to coat it with some type of fluid film every year to stop it from rusting (long term).

[@frankstall1347]

Drill drain holes in the frame and then blast the inside with undercoating.

[@jrfuapapaqueen3225]

no one perfect bro, still the MAN! :)

[@mickhuggett2329]

I’ve seen a bloke actually sikaflex the sheet metal down, using a steel frame and got a aluminium floor folded up, he sikaflexed the frame sat it on and then sikaflexed all the joins, this way you can paint everything then just drop it on. Time will tell if it’ll hold on well but seems to me like a brilliant idea other than that

[@adrianbooysen219]

It's a Toyota. What else did you expect to find? 🤣

[@henrikchristiansen612]

hey austin here wher i live near the sea we use an undercuding on cars called pava spicial for the problem you have . when it get hot outside it will run like wather

[@tomstack6871]

before you rino it either use seam sealer or np1 poly urathane then the raptor bed liner.

[@michelhebert2293]

Good job! Would you show us how to install a rear inner fender on a pickup? Tkx

[@shelbydog1100]

Linex spray on bed liner would’ve been the best way to keep it from rusting

[@sut2910]

De-rust as best you can and seal the bottom side with truck bed liner. Or you could use thin dry film corrosion spray like they use on aircraft / marine applications - corrosionX. Stuff works good but you would need to repeat periodically.

[@emanuelrosales2078]

Saludos desde hidalgo México estaría perfecto que los subtítulos estén en español

[@cesarmaris4217]

Yeah as u said just put seam sealer and the gaps before paint

[@therusticrose2097]

I would galvanize dip it then you can coat it with the bed liner or powder coat it and then you can bed liner it on the top

[@allanwagner4570]

damn thats a nice lookin truck

[@hunterharness]

So I am doing a few patch repairs in some Chevy rocker Panels What paint do you recommend to coat the body filler with to ensure good water repellent I do plan to paint over that the oem truck color and make it look factory

[@SVENSENMTB]

fully weld it, or put silicone where u haven't been welding. If you don't wanna put too much heat in it. =)

[@coopersuperfastguy1]

I really love your truck. Do you have any videos on wiring up those lights to the flatbed

[@javier4764]

👏👏👏👏👏

[@troyhodulik5542]

Wurth rust converter. Then paint over top. Best product to cost ratio out there.

[@rotam8680]

possibly hot dip the raw steel, or cap off the open steel tube off as opposed to leaving it open

[@OldAndGettingOlder]

I don't think you should have welded the bed to the frame. They should be two pieces. This in itself wouldn't necessarily prevent this problem, it would allow you to easily service the problem. I suspect you thought this would happen. I'm afraid it's going to happen again. Anti corrosion is a tough nut.

[@jone26ww]

Weld through primer is for spot welding only

[@geecali8356]

Raptor bed liner, make a little thinner with thinner for tight spaces.

[@BGBLUWHELR]

Hot dip galvinized is best!

[@draganborovnica]

Do what ever and live it in garage and it will not rust. Any way it's almost useless 😊 But if you put side, back and on glass some frame with mash then it could be used for something. Galvanize will be good solution.

[@lukebiggins904]

I live in West Virginia and the salt here is terrible actually just finished rebuilding my 94 and I keep it garage kept in the winter time but on my daily that’s a 92 I have a decent bed on it had to do a little body work to make it look good but I used old motor oil and coated my bed with it and than took it down a dirt red so all the dirt stayed up under the bed and it hasn’t started rusting yet and that was almost 2 years ago idk about flatbeds but that’s what I did on a actual Toyota bed always heard bed liner and all that stuff holds water

[@CaptainSkidmark74]

Check out 3M cavity wax..... i live in the rust belt and coat my Tacoma and my son's 3rd gen T4R frame with it..they look great

[@monkeybarmonkeyman]

Suggest you need to get some proper impact sockets/adapters. You'll thank me later.

[@mariorotundo9167]

Honestly I rust proof, even paint the panels and then I to small scratche, sand the are and weld. So far everything that I have welded is doing good, no rust and I'm very close to the ocean. Maybe I'm wrong but it's what I do

[@markhyson4277]

By the looks where your exhaust just turns down under the bed that will definitely cause rust aswell!! With my experience. Its always better to exit the truck not under

[@paulrichardson4952]

Fluid Film will solve the problem with no additional work.

[@towboatjeff]

Id definatly spray fluid film into the drain holes in the frame of the bad to protect the insides.

[@Buddha-eb5yl]

In Germany we use " Ovatrol " a great Stuff !

[@SpringdaleJim]

spray used motor oil on all metal surfaces and leave it, oilly metal wont rust

[@dillontrundy7975]

I dont have experience with the product myself, but have seen alot of videos of people praising Steel-it. It supposedly weldable, and corrosion resistant. the only other thing i can think of would be finish paint the bed and clean off the areas for welding then do a final coat to hide the areas you had to grind down.... Rust sucks

[@dillontrundy7975]

There are 2 products i have experience with for rust one is rust bullet the silver one which is industrial grade, i use it in a paper mill on already rusted surfaces and it puts por to shame in my experience but it doesnt always take a top coat very well. The other product is belzona epoxy ( i dont know the grade) its stupid expensive, but extremely durable we have cast iron suction boxes that live in a wet caustic environment and get occasional acidic boil outs that have been coated with it for longer than i have been alive (30 years)

[@austinniemela]

Rust really does suck haha I have seen the steel it but still have not tried it! May have to

[@SWERVE_IP]

You did it for aesthetics of for use it to haul things? Sorry for my english i hope you understand

[@edubz6530]

Air Mister with transmission fluid it absorbs into the metal and lasts for 5+ years