My go to exercises for warming up in bouldering

[@sofya_yokoyama]

A second video will come out soon to show you the harder harder boulders I tried during this session after my warm up! Hope you enjoy the video and let me know what you think :)) Grab your EXCLUSIVE NordVPN Deal by going to nordvpn.com/yokoyama to get a huge discount off your NordVPN Plan + 4 extra months free! It's completely risk free with Nord's 30 day money-back guarantee!

[@JS-jz9cg]

great video, also good to see that it's ok not to have to send all the warmup boulders, that's where i sometimes tire myself out too much before hopping on to my proj boulders

[@theflaggeddragon9472]

As someone with the mobility of a 2x4, its nice to see a super strong climber with just "ok" mobility and still working hard on it. Very helpful and motivational for me!

[@JoseAntonioOU4]

Good job with the camera.

[@deminmax]

I thought I'd share the video. We have a nice series of long videos about common climbing injuries and how to prevent them. The videos are unique in a sence that a physio himself is a climber. So he knows common issues and even tells what kind of training to avoid if smth hurts. The main cons are - its in russian :) and it is pretty long. Links in the comments are not alowed, so I'll post a video id 2QCEgeHVs8c, you can swap it in the url. The main point of the videos there are just a couple of simple exercises you can add into your routine that will reduce a lot of injuries. If you don't want to watch long videos, the short idea of the series - is to train antagonist muscles. Main shoulder problems are caused by strong delts, that raise the joint and a muscle is pinched between the bones. The same thing with fingers, we climb and train fingers to bend and not to extend.

[@DDoesT]

Awesome video, will def steal some of the warm ups

[@badublackwater6556]

Great video \^-^/ I'm always arguing with myself during warming up on how thorough I need to be, as I am always all fired up to finally start working on my projects, ups

[@sofya_yokoyama]

Ahahah i don’t warm up like this ALL the time but when i do, i do feel better in harder moves faster!

[@tanguylaloy8155]

Was just about to go warmup not knowing what to do!

[@mattiacasellato2659]

Great video very useful !!!!

[@riiiibu]

good luck in Keqiao!! :)

[@sofya_yokoyama]

Thank you!!

[@TheAletes]

Cool video 😊

[@LeonardoYoshimitsu]

nice video, some useful exercises to add into my warm up. When did you go to Bpump??! how was it?

[@sofya_yokoyama]

Last couple of years for the world cups in japan! It’s really nice, some fun boulders!

[@jonnes__4657]

🗽After that long warmup I guess I will be so tired and have to go home... 😅 -

[@sofya_yokoyama]

Warm up isn’t supposed to tire you out lol but definitely something your body needs to get used to if you’ve never done it

[@colemantrebor6574]

Commercial gyms often don't have as many crimps on easier boulders because newer climbers dont have the finger strength yet so they have a high risk of injury on crimps.

[@omegamegaraven12]

I need to do the hanging portion! Any ideas on how to rehab your fingers? I’ve been feeling it particularly on my left ring finger, it’s been feeling achy and stiff after a climbing sesh

[@sofya_yokoyama]

30-40s light hangs (feet on ground and barely any weight) for 3 sets, 2 min rest between sets, 2-3x/ week. Helped me tons!!

[@essentialG]

You do the same for „regular sessions“? Up to 60mins feels like a lot for every session.

[@sofya_yokoyama]

I reduce by a lot the non climbing part (usually just do the elastic band and hangs) but the climbing part to feel really warm can take 30 - 45 min before getting to the max boulders!

[@dylansmith3452]

For my sessions my warmup usually takes 30-45 minutes, which includes banded shoulder mobilization, some lower body stretching, some recruitment hangs in half crimp and open hand, and finally 10-15 warmup climbs while doing One touch and cycling through other movement/foot work drills. For competition my warmup usually lasts about an hour long as I do everything a bit more thoroughly and do more full body stretching and finger/wrist work

[@i8ap4t53]

I've never found nord to work in China.

[@nimrodvishnia412]

Hey Sofya, I was wondering if you have any tips on keeping skin. When I climb long sessions, the tips of my fingers often get messed up, sometimes even going through and bleeding :( thanks

[@sofya_yokoyama]

Ahh samee, i try to tape before the bleeding part happens. And i like using rhinoskin repair or performance in the evening! There’s also Antihydral that you could try using (it’s makes the tips of your fingers thicker and reduces the sweat) but i personally don’t like it. You need to put it on the tips of your fingers on good skin and you can leave it on between an hour or overnight (definitely something you need to test out yourself and see what works best)!

[@6darkness6eternal6]

Those are not clibing matting, pretty sure they're just for the warmup area

[@ClimbingCrow]

Why do you mobility -> easy climb -> hang -> harder climb? Instead of mobility -> hang -> easy climbs -> harder climbs? I've seen multiple people do the approach you're doing, but it's so annoying to go the warmup area, then to the boulders, then back to the warmup area....

[@sikerow3180]

Cold hangs are probably more risky for injury

[@Asdfghjkl-ls1or]

I progress through crimp size and keep feet on the ground. I also don't max out on fingerboards, I feel like this is a pretty safe finger finger warmup

[@sofya_yokoyama]

You can also do it that way! I just prefer warming my fingers up a bit before light hangs because i also do specific hangboard exercises for a finger injury i had at that time :)

[@deltaflux2381]

The holds look very slippery because of all the rubber on 'em

[@sofya_yokoyama]

Yeah some of them really are cause of the chalk too ahah

[@kajukuja]

🙂👍

[@ClimbingCrow]

I would strongly advise climbing without the blue matts that the current gym has. It's very easy to fall on the side of them, and dislocate your ankle. Had that happen to ~5 friends, until my gym finally got rid of the matts.