My Junk E-Type Engine Part 4

[@oldschool1993]

Back in the 70's I owned a Jaguar repair shop. We used to rebuild a lot of the 3.8 motors and other guys couldn't figure out how we did it so cheap. We used Corvair pistons which had the same dome, pin size and deck height and were forged and lighter than the stock ones. We could buy a full set of 6 Corvairs complete with rings and pins for the price of 2 stock Jag pistons. The Corvair had a slightly larger bore than a standard 3.8, so often we could just hone the Jag block to fit without having to go a full bore. We also used Chevy valve guides by just turning the end down a bit on the lathe- they were better quality than the Jags units and were far cheaper.

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Oh wow. I don't think I will get as creative with this one, but it's great to hear the ingenuity that you guys employed. I've often wondered about the valve guides, and the prevailing expectation to machine them out vs punching them out. Do you remember what you guys did?

[@oldschool1993]

@@RichardMichaelOwen We drove the old ones out, but we used Chevy guides that we machined to fit- it was a simple matter of turning the heads down a bit- the stem diameters and overall length were the same. We had a book that was a numerical catalogue- instead of listing things by manufacturer, it listed parts by the size, you could find a lot of parts that would work in various cars. Came in handy when we did a Daimler SP250 motor and also a Ferrari 250 California that another shop had taken apart and then lost a bunch of the parts. The guy had lost all the head studs and 3 of the pistons. Turned out that VW head studs were the same size exactly length and thread pitch. We honed all the sleeves to the same size, then sent one of the pistons to Venolia in California and they made us a complete set of 12 with pins and rings with the proper skirt clearance for the sleeves for 1/2 of what Ferrari wanted.

[@marcryvon]

@@oldschool1993 Wow ! Now, you are/were what is called a Master mechanic ! Not simply a parts installer like today's too frequent "technicians". And your surname is fitting perfectly. Kudos, sir ! I have the chance of having my cars maintenance and repairs done at a small, local garage. My now friend Norm bought it from his late dad when the man retired but Norm learned his trade under the teaching of his Dad, the old school ways. My wife at the time had a Toyota Tercel with a problem with the carb. Everyone told us that we had to buy a new 800$ carb. (We just bought the car 2 weeks prior for 1,000$ ! Non-sense. An auto parts supplier recommended to visit this guy next door, THE known carb specialist of the area I did'nt know at the time. He ordered a used carb, took off the supposedly, sealed, unserviceable mechanical choke, and installed it. Total cost : 85$. I never, ever went to another garage in the last 35 years. I actually sent many friends and family members to his place. Everybody is 100% satisfied. Parking lot always filled. A few doors away, a guy has this 6 doors garage, super clean and shiny but his customer parking lot is always half empty... Yep, parts installers and rude. Says it all, I guess.

[@deepindercheema4917]

Oh boy we need a cheap fix like this in the Vincent HRD motorcycle repair and restoration game . I am greatly enjoying this series of films as you tear down the beast from Coventry.

[@malcolmnicholls2893]

Must be great to find a match in nice parts.

[@kenty2831]

Enjoy the crank, nuts and bolts explanation and coating detail. Learning so much and respecting the early cars ... Rolling art

[@jimburig7064]

This was an extremely good engine for rebuilding. I commend you guys for paying such close attention to all of the different fasteners going back into their proper positions. I think you have come up short, however by not having the block and crank cleaned in a hot tank for removal of all foreign matter.

[@laikatravels]

Wow the Jag at the end looks out of this world.

[@JeffCrowell11]

Richard, your project '70 is absolutely beautiful. Great work!

[@stevewaclo167]

Luv the series👍👍👍 I did injectors in my LB7 Duramax last summer and used a magic marker and plastic bags for organization. Like you, I cleaned up all my fasteners and various bits.

[@barrycox8468]

What a highly skilled motor engineering guy.yoi are

[@memybikeni9931]

Wow, that’s a lot of nuts and bolts hardware to clean up. I’m a Brit, so thanks for reviving one of our classic icons. Keep up the good work.

[@rusty2222]

Really enjoyed watching these, Richard. No oily, no party!

[@moosey62]

This series of videos was a brilliant watch. Thank you so much for posting this. Respect and virtual beers to you all.

[@paulotex19]

Loved the overview in the intro! Thanks for that. Also enjoyed you going through all the different small parts (nuts, bolts, washers, etc).

[@IllBeIntheGarage]

Hi Richard. Fellow Canuck here. I really enjoyed this series. I'm thinking of getting a MK2 in the future and this gave me some great insights on the engine. Right now I'm working on a 1929 Graham Paige 612 but after that...hope to get a Jag. Thanks for the great videos.

[@silva-anderida7695]

Fantastically interesting.You made a super job of that E type ... except for the steering wheel ... it's on the wrong side.Cheers.

[@pauloconnor7951]

Not long winded. Excellent ! and makes a massive difference to a resto . :) That E Type at the end has to thee most beautiful one i've seen. Simply stunning ! :*)

[@antonhoward7968]

That's an awesome colour combo

[@fw1421]

If I were to buy an E Type it would be a 6 Cylinder. Just classic E Type,one of the most beautiful cars ever!

[@phantomwalker8251]

if were to buy an e type,it,d have a 351 clevo in it.& 5 sp.but then,id just buy a pantera..be done with it,.

[@jonminer9891]

Thanks! I really appreciate your presentation. You do beautiful work and earn every award you get. That's a real beauty of an E-Type!

[@doncarlo5]

Germans say : " Der Teufel steckt im Detail " ... which clearly means : the devil hides in detail ... that's why it's so important to talk extensively about small hardware stuff , like screws ... I really do appreciate the explanation about it ... about cadmium gold plating ? Never heard of that, honestly ... It's always nice to find out how deep my lack of knowledge sometimes is ... nice !

[@area85restorations75]

The E type is one of the best looking car ever made. That is a fact, anybody that disagrees is just wrong LOL.

[@area85restorations75]

@@chuckschillingvideos How the fuck else are you going to design a tilt front end dude??

[@chuckschillingvideos]

@@area85restorations75 I wouldn't have made it a tilt front end.

[@area85restorations75]

@@chuckschillingvideos It kinda requires a tilt front end given what it is man.... The XKE is'nt the 60's version of a Miata. It's a street legal race car! It has a tilt front end for the same reason a Ford Gt has a tilt rear end.

[@DavidHh1969]

Agreed.

[@Dragonblaster1]

The roadster is better looking than the coupe imo.

[@chromemutt]

Brilliant video really interesting and in depth totally impressed with your excellent skills keep em coming

[@peterbarton3055]

great looking forward to part 5

[@peter-e2q]

Brilliant! Love the series. Love the detail: I used to strip down my Fords when in my early twenties [now 62!], every bolt went back in the same hole. Great smell too, old engine oil. Cheers

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Peter thanks for watching great to have you along.

[@charlesbulkley8110]

IT IS EXTREMELY RISKY to fit Fit an in-line filter to the supply side of a fuel pump as there is only atmospheric ptressure, just slight clogging will inhibit fuel flow at full rhrotle wifh a very lean mixture resulting in holed pistons.

[@gerardscheffer8848]

This series is so much fun to watch. Can wait for it to fire up!

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Should be running soon

[@ivanauker132]

Brilliant, really enjoyed this series, thank you.

[@henrymorgan3982]

That is pure art!

[@richardmason902]

0:12 Did you say Owen Art Motors? Thanks for posting these marvelous videos . So inspirational and informative. I need to rebuild / refurbish the motors in both my MGs TC hasn't run for 50 years and the TF not for 37 years. Appreciate your work -- Thanks again.

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Great, thanks for watching. Hope to see those T cars on the road.

[@richardcasey7521]

Those pistons were stuck because of moisture that encouraged corrosion in the bores and on the pistons. Good thing you cleaned the sludge trap.

[@alexyo3927]

Wow I think removing those plugs just saved your engine! Supper filled with crud. I'm enjoying your rebuild, strip and clean up

[@maxallan4007]

Easiest way to remove crankshaft plugs that doesn't require heat or special tools? Having removed pistons/rods reinstall crankshaft in crankcase and refit main bearing caps (no need to torque up). Fit hexagon driver in plug to be removed and rotate crank until hex driver fouls against adjacent crankcase main bearing web thus preventing any further crank rotation. Then it's a simple matter of unscrewing the each plug in turn. Regardless how tight the plugs they will come out without drama!! Refitting is the reverse proceedure. Crank is securely held in position thus ensuring confidence plugs are fully tightened. DON'T FORGET TO RE-SCOTCH PLUGS ONCE FULLY TIGHTENED.

[@davidhannah943]

Lovely Morgan in the background!

[@MrOnegesius]

We used to call this type of painting "reconditioning paint". We meant that nothing was done except painting the outside. Nuts, bolts, washers, welsh plugs everything painted. We left this features "au natural" which looked a lot better and showed that these parts were at least disassembled before painting. Secondly, here in Australia, E-Type heads had a golden valley. This distinguished the high performance engines. I think the Mk 10/420G's were the same, but it was a long time ago that I worked with the Jags.

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Alot of British engines were painted this way, even painting hoses, belts and wires.

[@jamespond3097]

Just done a full rebuild of my sons Evo 4g63 engine, it produces around 580hp now, those balance shafts were a waste of space, so they went. All in all a different era of engine but still, enjoyable to build. I'm on with a hillman imp engine soon, just waiting for the guy to make up his mind ;)

[@arniewheeler4673]

excellent

[@tonygriffiths2485]

Only ever drove a 3.8 E Type once. When we got to where we were going the owner shouted "Stop !!" I did. The front bumper was approx 3" from the wall I was going to drive straight into ! God they have a long bonnet ... oops sorry Hood !

[@kittonsmitton]

Great stuff thanks for the education!

[@randyng-a-fook1695]

What a beautiful '70 E-type. Who painted that beauty, it looks awesome.

[@johnnymac26]

job well done respect.

[@davidcollis4758]

I used to own a '76 triumph TR7. I had to replace the starter solenoid every 6 months, at $100.00 each. Lucas is not known for reliability. No date code on those solenoids!

[@jansb984]

Led(?) would be poured into the crankshaft cavities while the whole lot is hot enough to keep it it in the molten stage, then rotated while still molten, then cooled down. It balances the crankshaft very much the same way as it balances your tyre wheel once replaced.

[@phy7dop]

The different plating process may relate to the application of the fastener and the material it is manufactured from. High tensile fasteners, such as con rod bolts, main bearing bolts, flywheel bolts etc. are often phosphated or barrelled rather than electroplated. Electroplating can cause a risk of hydrogen embrittlement in these high tensile steels. The head markings may give a clue as to the grade of bolt and therefore the best treatment to use. If you do electroplate everything, it is worth having them de-embrittled afterwards.

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Hydrogen embrittlement comes from acid pickling before plating, everything in this video was blasted prior to plating.

[@optimist3580]

Frost Plugs! Core Plugs is the correct expression as their purpose was to hold the sand cores during casting. People think they are expansion plugs when an engine freezes as they are usually the bits that fail 😀

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

someone else called them Welsh Plugs in the comments!

[@optimist3580]

www.britishcarweek.org/welch_plug.html explains the Welch name

[@nickjoel5288]

When I was young a neighbour had a beautiful E Type in British Racing Green and he had to replace a core plug for some reason. On completion he asked if I wanted to join him on a test drive. I eagerly said yes and before long we were nearing 90 mph on the A127 out of Southend. I was watching the needle on the speedo near 100 when the new core plug decided it didn’t want to play anymore and promptly left in quite a dramatic fashion. Getting a tow home wasn’t quite as exhilarating.

[@thomasschaefer9312]

who doesn't love E-Types.

[@matthewcurry425]

Breaking open an old XK engine is really a crap shoot. You came out on top, which was obvious from the Glyptol coating on interior of the crankcase and the great state of the iron between bores; no stress cracks. It just got better and better as you removed bearing caps revealing the fairly good state of the crank journals. I was further stunned as the mic gauge showed little to no movement going down the bores. A very fortunate acquisition. You mentioned $1000 CDN, which sounds like about $800 US. I am curious, did you know the provenance of the engine, or was it just a piece of luck? Some years back I picked up a later series 2 motor for $350 US. It served my rebuild needs, but not nearly the initial quality of what you have there. The eye candy at the end was just ‘taking it to 11’ in my book! Really beautiful hardtop on that roadster. Thanks for sharing. :-)

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Matthew, thanks for the comments. I had no idea what this engine was like before filming; just dumb luck.

[@stevearmstrong4699]

Can you be more specific on what the "amount" of movement was on the mic gauge. I'm evaluating my bores currently and am looking for a guideline as to whether to sleeve or not. -Thanks, Steve A.

[@matthewcurry425]

There is a great 8 min video by Jafromobile, search for “Blueprint 106 - Cylinder Bores”. It gives all the detail you need to perform the assessment.

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

@@matthewcurry425 thanks for the video link

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

@@stevearmstrong4699.005 is about the maximum taper wear

[@dannylee778]

Thanks again Richard

[@mpetersen6]

I'd be interested in seeing the manufacturing process that put the voids in the crankpins. Cast that way? One way to organize your parts such as fasteners is bag them as they come off

[@jeffreyprice773]

Domed nuts. Shake proof washers. Spring washers.

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Jeffrey, you have all the best terms. Thanks for watching.

[@westschleife]

It's getting almost impossible to get things cad plated in the US, yellow zinc plating has also gotten crazy expensive.

[@fubartotale3389]

Ever consider converting that rubber bumper MG to a steel bumper car?

[@boatshaper]

Those two bolts that you called "stripped" look like they were driven into a hole that wasn't tapped deep enough.

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Actually when I went to reinstall the bolts just were not long enough, only getting a couple threads to hold and one side stripped on install at the factory.

[@AlfDagg]

B-utiful car. Best looking car ever?

[@JasonCarmichael]

17:05

[@s.sestric9929]

13:20 Tighten it until it strips, then back off a quarter turn.

[@s.sestric9929]

@Andy Peek Nope, but Americans and Down Under people are more alike than different.

[@garyhefferon2394]

Hi Richard - great video series... I have been following along to rebuild my own 4.2 engine and my pistons and bores look to be in really good shape. However I have been advised that in most cases a re-bore is required plus new pistons because a ridge or lip will have been worn into the cylinder. I just want to Hone and fit new Jag part rings... I cant feel or see a ridge so would such a condition be obvious? Cheers Gary

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

You can feel it at the top of the bore if there's wear.

[@laikatravels]

Just found your channel and lovin the e-type engine rebuild, thank you. Can I ask where your fathers accent is from? Great channel, Paul - Newcastle uk.

[@DuardoEh]

Same accent as Margaret Atwood! Maybe the voice is physiological. Charmingly distinctive, or vice versa.

[@martyzielinski2469]

Just an alley mechanic here, but is it a really good idea to put a torch on the crankshaft?

[@leemellors3843]

Hi Richard. What size hex head socket will i need to remove the crank sludge plugs?

[@maytagmark2171]

The Evaporust process of cleaning is the same chemical processes as a Molasses soak.

[@henrylima6974]

How much do you guys charge to do a normal rebuild of type e engine?

[@tomt373]

Very nice job organizing the hardware, but I hope that you did not actually re-use the old spring-type lock washers for anything serious after plating them! In the first place spring-type lock washers should NEVER be re-used, since the sharp edge of the washers' tooth is gone the first time it is removed. Also, Jaguar had general failure problems with the spring type lock washers when used for the connecting rod bearing cap bolts and went to lock-nuts for after-market.

[@kevinaustin5342]

Volume on this clip is not as loud as on the previous ones.

[@johnburns4017]

What oil are you going to use? Semi-synthetic?

[@Schten]

Hi Richard! I'm researching a full resto of a 62 E-type. What are your thoughts of Classic Jaguar (CJ) engine rebuild from the U.S.A ?

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

I've never had any experience with CJ, but their process looks mighty impressive. Thanks for watching.

[@TairnKA]

What's the ugly holes on the piston skirts for, oiling?

[@Overnity]

Those lead Plugs balance the Camshaft!!! did you know that? you may experience vibration without the lead

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

If you look there is actually 1961 footage of balancing these units in the factory. They did not use lead.

[@bernhardlist9359]

Nice restoration, except the armrests are attached the wrong way around. Just swap them left to right. Greetings Bernhard

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Bernhard you have a good eye. They have already been swapped over. Thanks for watching.

[@bernhardlist9359]

Great, I am just working on the V12 E-Type Convertible but I also have the 3.8XK and wanted to find out what problems to expect when disassembling that next. Thanks.

[@chuckschillingvideos]

I'd replace those cheesy worm clamps with ear clamps.

[@paulscottbaker6042]

I’d like to come and clean parts for you are you hiring

[@pertoger]

How can you Discover oil leaks on that black Shiny Surface?

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

They actually show up just fine.

[@duxberry1958]

have you heard of a firm called TR BITZ in Cheshire England ...

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Great website and lots of stock. Much higher prices than those here in Canada.

[@peteredwards9147]

You can't reuse brass nuts on a exhaust manifold stud

[@mikespikeey4625]

I WAS ALL WAYS TOLD IF REMOVING A NOT ALL WAYS USE THE END OF THE FLAME NOT HALF WAY DOWN HOTTEST PART OF THE FLAME IS THE END

[@phantomwalker8251]

SU.s,in the bin,!!,go get a set of webers.,another 50 hp.

[@TheMightyThim]

Hey I just rebuild my E-type 4.2 engine. I enjoyed your videos all the way till you took out the oil plugs for the cranckshaft... Beacuse that's the only thing I didn't do! I thought they was just holding the thing togheter and didn't want to mess with it :( My engine was not seized and had great colour to the oil. Almost looking like new. The engine has been run in a dyno and is now planted in the car that i hope to testdrive this summer. I did clean the cranck by forcing thinner in the cranck with compressed air and did get alot of slug out of the cranck but I now suspect it to be more compact slug in the cranck as in yours. Really don't wanna take the engine out now. Is there anyone here that knows of any additives that I should use to maybe prevent this to dissolve (or dissovle in a nice way) and block the oilpassage or scratch the cranck...

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

I don't think it's a big deal to be honest. This engine probably saw 40-50k miles and the plug holes were about 25% full.

[@keithnewton8981]

Jubilee clips thats what the british call your chain zero clamps they are jubilee clips that the correct name The starter where all black originally. If mk10 had 1972 start then that's a replacement starter not original

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Thanks for watching Keith, another vote for all black starters, great!

[@keithnewton8981]

The only reason I know our family had several dealership and garages. I was brought on on these cars. Dad had so many jaguars some of the junk ones where my play things that when dealer and garages use to keep old cars round the back for cheap spares for those customers on tight budgets and we fixed things not just replace

[@seankirby2580]

Nice to watch the 4 videos, but I've driven the E-type. A typical, unreliable heap of a car. Jags are just the same, new or old, today. I was surprised that the E-type attracted any warmth. All the weight is over the front wheels, giving heavy, lifeless steering. Next to no weight over the back, giving slippery, skidding traction and abysmal handling. Next to no rust proofing and weird Joe Lucas (the prince of darkness) electrics. Thank goodness the Japanese and Germans came and closed our UK car plants.

[@RichardMichaelOwen]

Sean, thanks for watching. There is a good chance I will be driving this engine to Monterey next year. Wish me luck :)

[@seankirby2580]

@@RichardMichaelOwen And "wish me luck" is exactly the problem. JLR vehicles are assembled in the UK from parts sourced across the world at the cheapest possible price. The Indians won't pay a penny more than they have to. Relying on luck is ridiculous, and you know it. Proper Japanese or German engineering is the way to go.

[@slugworth63]

Actually, the weight of the car is exactly 50/50 front to rear and the steering (at least in my 3.8 FHC) is precise and responds to even the smallest of driver inputs. I've changed out the dynamo for a modern alternator in mine, but apart from the remote starter solenoid, electronic ignition and fuel sending unit which I've changed out for new, (both were a bit dodgy after 50+ years and were date stamped) everything on the car functions properly. Even the original clock which was rebuilt when I bought the car nearly 30 years ago. My car has been in California its entire life and has ZERO rust and also has its original, matching numbers engine block, cylinder head and carburetors. The key to successful, long-term E-Type ownership is to *know your machine* and make upgrades and improvements where they make sense. Were these cars perfect? Absolutely not, but the biggest problem (at least here in the US) wasn't so much the cars themselves, but with ham-fisted, blockheaded wrench monkeys that simply did not and/or do not know how to work on these vehicles.

[@slugworth63]

Just about everything on my S1 FHC was Made in England. Lots of outsourcing of parts on modern vehicles, but that's with just about every manufacturer these days, but we're talking E-Types here. I'm not an expert on the S3 V12s, but the E-Types made in the 60s mostly before the Leyland days, were well built. Remember those days? Back when ENGLAND (not the UK) made the best of everything; cars, motorcycles & bicycles, music, fashion. Even airplanes! When you had something MADE IN ENGLAND, you had THE BEST! Sad to have seen the decline of British Industry. A once proud nation with an empire upon which the sun never set turned into a Socialist welfare state with mass immigration, cultural rot and more than half of its citizens on the dole. And it only took 50 years.

[@danaferguson3342]

Ouch Sean.. I happen to own the "eye candy" Richard shows at the end, and find the car is very predictable, totally reliable and is smooth as glass in the mountains, uphill, downhill or while sliding the switchbacks. It's become a daily driver, so much so that my thoroughly modern Digital BMW has take a back seat all summer to this fully analog opposite. Thousands of trouble free miles and counting. Mind you, Owen probably did a better job of restoring the car 'shell off' than the factory did originally. :). Note it doesn't have limit use collector plates, for a good reason.