My Painting Failure with Speed Paint 2.0 | MgM Paints | Necromunda Ironhead Prospectors

[@craigjones7343]

‘Miniature don’t always come out the way we want them’. This happens more often than it does not for me. And thanks for the shoutout.

[@MiniatureGameMontage]

Hey! For sure! 🙂 You had to watch to catch it so thank you for that.

[@kromyrthedamned3457]

Despite the initial disappointment, great recovery! You demonstrated a good attitude toward the setback and brought up good techniques to circumvent the issues. In my opinion the model looks great in the diorama background. Great work!

[@MiniatureGameMontage]

Thanks, bud! It wasn’t the video I intended to make this week but I’m glad it happened 🙂

[@HeadCannonPrime]

I like this mistake and learning video. The thing you have to remember about doing grisaille is that the paint is ADDING pigment to the base layer. Any time you ADD pigment you are making a thing darker (more pigment absorbs more light, less light reflected = darker). That means the color will make the undertone DARKER no matter what. If mid grey is already darker than the tint, no matter how much paint you use it can't get any brighter than the mid grey you start with. If you are painting a light color you want the mid grey to be nearly white and the highlights the brightest pure white. Also the shade of grey and white matters. Sometimes you get a cool grey which is made by adding some amount of BLUE to the grey. And as we all know, blue+yellow=GREEN. That goes for ANY and all yellows. (Brown and bone are just dark yellow). When putting down your grisaille you need to use a WARM grey and warm white under any color that mixes over them. On a personal note, I don't use metallic speed paints. You get FAR BETTER results by putting down a traditional silver metallic paint and applying a speed paint ON TOP of that to get the desired color metallic.

[@MiniatureGameMontage]

Great comment! I appreciate you watching and taking the time to leave this response. It helps me tie things more together on what went wrong.

[@Springheel01]

This isn't entirely true. Some speed paints have more pigment in them than others, especially the 2.0 line. There are plenty of lighter colours that will lighten dark values underneath--Battleship Grey comes to mind. It won't lighten them completely, of course, but the effect is there, and it takes some experimenting to figure out which ones will do it.

[@HeadCannonPrime]

@@Springheel01 they are not technically "lightening" what is underneath so much as replacing the pigment. If you put battleship grey over dark green you don't get lighter green. You get grey pigment that collects in the crevices and overwrites the green.

[@Reroll121]

The point in comment made regarding many blacks and greys containing blue is the most likely source of your disappointment. It’s noted by several other KZbin paint channels and results in the outcome you experienced (and myself). I’ve adopted a few different steps to avoid this and am generally really happy with the SP2 results now when using yellows etc. A game changer was using a purple wash consistency layer and taking care to avoid pooling. Then using a warm white dry brush to reinforce some edges. Finally the yellow. The results are great.

[@heretical_hobbyist]

I like when other people post up their perceived failures. Not to mock or belittle, but as a great learning experience. Seeing how it went wrong for you and how you recovered from it, was very informative. On more than one occasion, I have felt like I've completely failed in what I was trying to do. Sometimes I strip and start again, and other times the project gets shelved. I have a few projects sat on the half done. Next time this happens, I'm going to take a page from your book, push through and finish anyway, and see what happens.

[@MiniatureGameMontage]

Nice! That’s exactly what I wanted out of the video. Thanks for sharing! 🙂

[@onkelgroen]

I know it wasn't the speedy job you wanted, but the result is great! Thanks for sharing the learning experience.

[@kal_spriggs]

Nice job bringing it back. It's hard, especially with new/pricier models sometimes getting over that moment of disappointment when a paint job isn't where we would like.

[@MiniatureGameMontage]

Totally! Thanks a bunch!

[@dsanchez23fight]

Great video. Love the perspective. I will say that yellow is one of the “weakest” colors and when we paint with our black colors, they’re actually super dark blues and so the blues are what you see peaking through the yellow giving you that sort of sickly color and then yellow just not being strong enough to cover those dark sections.

[@MiniatureGameMontage]

Right! Definitely a lesson learned for me and hopefully for some others out there. Cheers!

[@brennonr]

Ended up looking great

[@MiniatureGameMontage]

I appreciate it!

[@JEHermit]

Good Work. Informative.

[@etherealmonkey4979]

Happens to the best of us pal. Still looks great though! What is the orange on the first base you were dry brushing at the start?

[@MiniatureGameMontage]

Thanks! I was testing out the fire giant orange against white and bone to see the gradient.

[@DaThingOnTheDoorstep]

I think the main problem here was that when Contrast did it's range additions it sort of created a precedent for colors that don't really act as this type of paint is advertised as, and Army Painter just followed suit. There's a few examples of paints like this, the Maize Yellow you used and its Contrast equivalent, as well as Sigvald Burgundy. They're more leaning towards the "one-coat paint" instead of "one-coat paint*job*" so you can spray white, slap some Maize Yellow and have a squad of Banana Marines ready for the table. They won't have much "contrast" on them, but your time painting isn't measured in cosmic timescales. Also, while the steel Speedpaint looks bad, the bronze one would probably look completely fine with a silver drybrushing!

[@MiniatureGameMontage]

Thanks, Thing! Great comment. That drybrush of silver makes really good sense. And you’re correct, the Maize over white doesn’t give any depth. I tried after on a base. I need to try it with some pink undertones to see if that gives a better effect.

[@bjjzombie]

I found the Maize Yellow to cover really well, but I was using it on a white primer not slapchop. Your mini looks awesome at the end though!

[@MiniatureGameMontage]

Thanks! Definitely wanted to share the experience. I’ve seen it look great over a pure white. Hopefully it helps someone not make the same mistake 🙂

[@bjjzombie]

@@MiniatureGameMontage As Bob Ross would say, no mistakes just happy accidents 🙂

[@CelticpredGaming]

Try using some speed paint medium if you find the paint is not flowing enough.

[@Steve-ps6qw]

Yea, most of my stuff looks sloppy but like you, i dont have the time and i dont have the patience. Anyway, they look good so put them on the table with Van Saar!!

[@MiniatureGameMontage]

Same for me. I genuinely want to get better but with 3 kids and a full time job I need the efficiency. Pike’s Prospectors coming soon!

[@garyjenson1326]

Jimmy I don't know if you know: most blacks are a mixture of blue and brown. This makes an ugly green when covered with yellow. These days I base with magenta or brown for yellow areas. Canvas painters almost exclusively use brown to shade yellow. Fun fact: did you know that brown is just a desaturated orange? Even single pigments. It's why you can't make brown light.

[@MiniatureGameMontage]

Thanks so much for sharing! I’m really in the dark when it comes to the science of colors. It takes comments like these for me to see the light! I appreciate it.

[@manintveld_nl]

The new nickname for the guy is Egg Yolk Eddie, after using the Contrast Paint on his helmet. Everland Sunset..

[@MiniatureGameMontage]

Would totally use this if he wasn’t already named. 🙂

[@manintveld_nl]

@@MiniatureGameMontage I actually painted some Gudatama toys with Everland Sunset. That is why it sprang to mind.

[@BrewsGamesRides]

Thanks for the details on this process, I'm going to avoid the 2.0 speed paints after watching this, when I want to do that type of painting like mass painting my Shadows of Brimstone core set mini's. I'll use my 1.0 set for that for now and I'll continue to learn/practice opaque painting with my pro acryl/Vallejo paints. Always enjoy your content, cheers!

[@HeadCannonPrime]

This isn't a speedpaint 2.0 problem. It was an undercoat color selection issue. He used a cool grey undercoat and tried to speedpaint yellows on top which is going to turn the result green no matter what brand you use.

[@BrewsGamesRides]

@@HeadCannonPrimeI don't fully agree as I prefer to use the pre shade with speed paints, not one white or light base, no contrast, that's the problem I'm seeing here. But if you like them enjoy, saved me a lot of spend for the 2.0 in seeing this.

[@MiniatureGameMontage]

Yeah I may try again with the yellow. But spray the helmet white prior to assembly. I’ve seen other videos for imperial fists where it gives great coverage. It’s just not a slap chop friendly color with the colors I chose. I’m not totally writing them off 🙂

[@sirpoupadou]

This was a very informative video thanks! I think it complements well vids from Watch it Paint it and Miniature Hobbyist in which they use 2.0 (and 1.0) with great results. So colours are must use, some are more meh or require special handling, which tends to be the case with all brands. I love how people are using the contrast type paints in different ways, with or without slpap chop, with or without edge highlights. Great resources out there, thanks for sharing your process.

[@MiniatureGameMontage]

@@sirpoupadou thanks! I appreciate the feedback. 🙂 That’s some good company you mentioned

[@reuterss306]

I dont like the traditional zenithal, I started to use light colored underpaintings instead. It gives a nice colorchange in the shadows but does not darken the miniature as much. I love speedpaints because I got tons of minis and traditional painting just takes too long. And you can always push a speedpainted mini with a few tricks or quick highlights and glazes.

[@MiniatureGameMontage]

Absolutely! What are your go to base colors/paints?

[@DMDuncan37]

You paint with Speedpaint 1.0 not 2.0 !