Speedpaint 2.0 Real World Review

[@TheArmyPainter]

PSA: mixing balls will lodge in the nozze if you turn the bottle 180º - please, please, apply to your palette at a 45º angle 🙏

[@tamoshant3r]

Doing the Emperor's work with this top tip 🙌

[@GoobertownHobbies]

yup yup! Interestingly, I lost a lot of "peachy flesh" because of this... ;-)

[@redsven7624]

Placing money Peachy getting his balls lodged is a future episode title. Great tip though

[@JC.Denton.]

Great, another "feature" that really shows the care and quality put in Army Painter products, next to reactivation, separation and cheap paper labels. You guys are the best

[@GoobertownHobbies]

@@JC.Denton. I don't pour milk at a 180 degree angle either...

[@PantsReduction]

"markings are a little bit rough" Proceeds to freehand a better lightning bolt than I've ever made in my life

[@thepaintingphase]

He's offensively good isn't he, I don't like filming him sometimes, makes everything look too easy! - Pat

[@UntiltedName]

practice it a few times on paper, then do the model when yer warmed up

[@Broeckchen]

Just like the people who go "just posting a shitty little doodle" followed by a gorgeously rendered semirealistic painting like Why do you hate my self esteem

[@alexanderhutchings6070]

The cracking is due to the primer/undercoat not being fully dry than being heated will affect the finish. I like to seal with a matt finish after using speed paints.

[@Septulum]

I found that as well, I now leave my primed minis several hours before using speedpaint.

[@alexanderhutchings6070]

some times it is hard as you just want to crack on and start painting but it's a catch 22, just got to wait :) safest way

[@vee_tinymoose]

I’ve just started using 2.0 and have had cracking too. Base coat was well and truly dried because it’s a big piece that I’ve been avoiding. It’s been sitting undeclared for months. I didn’t use hairdryer for drying, and I’m not painting in a warm room

[@alexanderhutchings6070]

@@vee_tinymoose Interesting, what base coat are you using? I used to work as an architectural model maker and we used all manner of paints, some would react with the others even when dry so we had to be super aware of what paint we used. I wonder if something in speed paint is reactivating your base coat?

[@vee_tinymoose]

@@alexanderhutchings6070 hmm. Maybe? For the red dragons I was doing there was some speed paint 1 originally, but I had clear coated that months ago. For the green dragon I’d done a Vallejo black with airbrush and then slap chopped through dark grey, mid grey and white, with liquitex acrylic

[@GiovanniBaracetti]

I cannot put into words how much I appreciate the honesty of this video. Too often we see people outright ruling out themselves from the possible causes of something going wrong; most of the time is just lack of awareness, not malice, but to see so much genuinity and openess here was extremely refereshing. Loved the video, loved Peachy!

[@thepaintingphase]

Thanks Giovanni, we thoroughly appreciated your kind words 😍👍

[@lXenn0nl]

Peachy needs to test Peachy Flesh

[@Nigelius]

Some say Peachy’s peachy flesh was the reference for the paint.

[@thepaintingphase]

That's why army painter were chasing him with a knife the other week! All slotting into place.

[@historygems1190]

EXACTLY what I was thinking 👍🏻

[@Domstar75]

Peachy Peg Brown

[@MasterShake9000]

Now Peachy can put himself in his own mouth without removing any ribs!

[@ChaseCrossing]

Recently painted a Khorne army with Speed Paints & also used Vallejo snow for the base - had the exact same bleed problem - problem was even worse if I got any paint on the base. Luckily for me it just looked like blood stained snow and I embraced it in true blood god fashion!

[@andyphippen4733]

Best speedpaint 2.0 review I've seen! I use a lot of contrast and this has convinced me to get the mega set when it comes out.

[@2ClutchGamers]

Satin varnish over the primer and highlights! Solved my problem with cracking. It flows over it better and keeps your highlight from reactivating.

[@BrokenCreed92]

A good way to see what the color is, is to prime/drybrush the lids and paint them, afterwards putting a varnish so it doesn't rub off. For those who haven't used speedpaints, the color is realllllly dark and lightens up considerably when applied/dried. I use the 1.0 Speedpaints quite abit and never had the cracking problem, but I've also never blow dried them before, so it could be that or the new formula they used? Another good way to get details to pop is to first do the details in the next darker color in between the muscles, undersuits, cloth fold lines, etc, and then go over the whole model with the original color you'd use.

[@thepaintingphase]

Lots of great advice here, cheers 👍👍👍

[@MrScrawnjuan]

I painted the lids with my Two Thin Coats I backed. Highly recommend

[@Tykepaints]

Appreciate the review and also for taking the time out to try and recreate and get to the bottom of any weirdness - so many other reviews I’ve seen immediately jump to ‘Problem with the paint’ rather than problem with the technique used 👍🏻

[@thepaintingphase]

My girlfriend left me and somehow it's because speedpaint 1.0 reactivated!

[@TheArmyPainter]

@@thepaintingphase SHHH! Don't let that cat out of the bag. 🤣

[@broncofun5636]

love these videos - can't get enough - really helped me not sweat the small stuff. keep them coming!

[@LakeyWargames]

No nonsense, honest and realistic testing video this! Nice one. Looks like there are some handy paints in that set for sure. Thanks for another great video guys! :)

[@8BitJesus]

Weirdly, I’ve seen similar errors on ceramics. I work with ceramics and whenever glaze or body (essentially primer) is sprayed, if it’s too thickly applied, the layers dry at different rates, you can get a cracking appearance Heat can amplify that effect too

[@thepaintingphase]

Ooh thanks for sharing that, very interesting and informative info 😍😍😍👍

[@bernie2k6]

This might occur because of a high capillaric pressure between the pigment particles and the fluid phase and the appeal of the pigment particles to each other. If they come closer together while the liquid is evaporating the tension might be so high, that cracks occur. This should not happen if you paint in thinner layers and with a matt primed surface to get a more hydrophile surface (less repelling)...

[@alansmith4655]

​@bernie2k6 what?

[@bernie2k6]

@@alansmith4655 haha, I tried to explain the mechanisms in microscopic scale...due to my researches in similar fields of application, I thouth it would be nice to share it with interested people :D maybe it was too scientific...

[@Lodorn]

The Bleeding into snow happend to me with lots of washes and contrast paints as well. It's probably something inside the snow rather than the speedpaints. (AK interactive snow paste, not Citadel though). Now I varnish my snow bases before applying the paste. That is an extra step, but it resolves the issue.

[@Gloomshimmer]

most base effect pastes have a solvent in it, they dont only use water as a solvent. otherwise they just would dry out and separate very quick because in fact theyre just like paints but with more solid part than liquid.

[@Lordvader1212]

Great video! Helped me decide on my decision to invest in 2.0!

[@HexTableTop]

Late to the party but wicked video, Peachy! This pack is now on my Christmas list!!

[@sweatilaa5325]

For me, Speedpaints are perfect for painting minis for board games that have a whole lot of minis that don't need to look perfect, like Zombicide. They're cheaper than contrasts and you get pretty good results for very little effort and no one is really gonna inspect how the zombies look, as long as they have the shirt, pants, and skin painted everyone is happy and appreciates your work. Otherwise I really like the classic layering technique, it might be slow but it makes me calm and my head stays quiet, which nice :)

[@djangofett4879]

the layering technique looks way, way better but yeah not as speedy. honestly though you just slap on a few colors and then hit it with a couple of washes. to me, that looks a lot better than the speed paint and it's also pretty speedy.

[@dorkangel1076]

Yes. I've been using Zombicide to practice on. Zombies are great as they're meant to look a bit messy. Just 6 left to do and I'll have done the whole lot. Particularly like the way the characters and Abomination turned out. Fatties pretty good too.

[@derekgarcia3069]

As someone who has far more boardgames with minis than actual minis games to paint, this is why i jumped in on 2.0. I have the original but fairly limited palette and mixing colours (especially if I had a specific colour I wanted) was far too much trial and error just due to the nature of the paints.

[@christiancartmale1150]

I've always liked to take speedpaints/contrasts and then do the classic layering method. Most of my paintjobs start off as a slapchop job now, and then I proceed to apply 3-7 steps on top of that. Can get really good shading and some very nice looking models that way.

[@emchamberlain]

Great job on this, nice results quickly.

[@AllinWhenPlaying]

Got mine recently form the preorder and I am really happy with it. On it's own if gives acceptable results but if you add the highlighting step as you normally would - you get to really nice results with skipping layering step AND the paint guides you as to where to put most important/strongest highlights. It really acts more like a guide then while removing one of the most boring step of basing/layering + washing. Two main issues I've seen with those was that some paints need additional water (especially blue ones) and most don't - so they are a bit inconsistent. Other thing is that Nuclear Sunrise is messed up from the box, I spoke with Army Painter and they say that this particular pigment is more affected by temperature as expected and has grain like clots of pigment in it. Army painter said they will be refunding/replacing those by request. Other than that, really happy with them - they are not a magic wand and the best thing ever but they are very convenient and they still allow for a range of approaches to quality. If you want to buy them, I would wait for a second release though. It will have the Nuclear Sunrise issue fixed, new labels describing what the color actually is in addition to the name. People who preordered got a bit of a raw deal there for sure, but in general it is worth the money, especially for a beginner/intermediate painter with time constraints. And I really don't see a point of paying more for contrast paints form GW, maybe not all the colors are good, but ones that are - are really good at what they do.

[@khromas5392]

I was curious about the speedpaint metallics. Look interesting. Great vid!

[@piesandhiking4943]

Best thing about speed paints is the working time is so much longer. You don't get coffee stains like with contrast.

[@smoothestofbrains]

I'm new to painting and I just ordered this speed paint 2.0 Im super excited to try painting soon

[@ovan2190]

Great Review, honestly I'm happy that your first response to any issue is user error, so many would think it's a problem with the product.

[@thepaintingphase]

Most of the time it is the user, the amount of feedback I used to give to citadel products, and a lot of the time it was because I’ve used them wrong lol.

[@eriksjogren800]

Thanks! Highly recommend a pipet. Saved so much paint.

[@TheArmyPainter]

Blinding White in the complete range will be GREAT for White Scars!

[@mikespaintedminis5100]

that magic blue seems brilliant for glow effects

[@thepaintingphase]

Magic blue = MVP

[@TinBearStudios]

Lovely colours! I found it super helpful running through the 3 different paint schemes, the yellow being a particular highlight for me with the pink basecoat/zenithal approach. I picked some of these up today at Element Games purely because of this review, can't wait to try them out.

[@thepaintingphase]

Hey Andy, thanks bud, glad you enjoyed the vid, lots of nice tones to add to the arsenal

[@Subcomandante73]

Nice to hear they have fixed the reactivation problem.

[@nerdstuffandreviews7578]

It’s so cool seeing what you can do with these.

[@supersaltlee7657]

Nice was going to buy these soon.

[@OllieWhittall]

That yellow on the imperial fist was perfect, very tempting to start using this technique, even if it'll make my army mismatched

[@TheArmyPainter]

We also like Ancient Honey (also in the set) for Imperial Fists, surprised no one has tried it yet.

[@Lodorn]

@@TheArmyPainter I think it comes out too dark/orange with pink shadows applied before. Out of the bottle, it's probably closer to the darker parts of imperial fists, but maybe a little too muted for it's bright yellow highlights. And it's easier to shadow down with a wash, than highlighting up in a smooth manner (talking speed-painting). Hence going with the brighter yellow.

[@Untold-History-TV]

Even less of a fan of the Army Painter range..but HUGE fan of Peachy honest review!

[@JeepsyPainter]

Great video, thank you Peach!

[@ginjasteve4435]

I’m so glad you clarified there was no rubbing off on the Imperial Fist model. I assume you used the normal varnishing methods instead.

[@cliffwood7386]

That poor poppy red. The fact that it just wasn't adressed in the video made it so much funnier lol

[@thepaintingphase]

Hahaha, there was some outtakes, but we took them out in the end…..mostly me going ‘ooooh no’

[@hugheja89]

@@thepaintingphase shame that would have been funny to see! Did the lid come off?

[@MrSkullhead1]

That happened to me with Fire Giant Orange. The agitators can plug the dropper tip and if you squeeze the bottle too much without realizing it you end up with Speed Paint all over your desk.

[@joeswift403]

I've only had cracking once with Contrast, was due to an old can of primer, the paint hasn't taken properly to the model and when the Contrast was added, because it goes on more liberally it lifted and cracked with the primer. Now I use an airbrush and never had the same issue, even with the same bottle of contract

[@lion9f452]

I really enjoyed the first wave of speed paints. I've gone through three bottles of Magic Blue and counting on my Thousand Sons so far. Pre-Ordered the 2.0 complete set from Wayland and this video has kept my keen for the new paints nice and high. Cheers for a fun watch!

[@Annihilo]

I think I need to scoop this set now! Thanks man

[@spacewolfdazzel4279]

I think peachy should get royalties for peachy flesh and just want too say I watch your videos cause their and you don’t take yourselves to serious and it’s just what the hobby should be I always watch peachy painting videos cause he’s a grate explaining to any painting level and doesn’t make you feel out of your depth awesome guys keep it up

[@thepaintingphase]

Aww thanks! Such a lovely message to read, much appreciated Spacewolfdazzel 😍😍😍

[@TheArmyPainter]

We would pay Peachy to personally give us a wake up call.

[@coppershark1973]

Great video. Swayed me for a preorder. Thanks.

[@minipaintermatt]

Been painting a lot of yellow recently may have to get that pixie pink spray

[@WardenOfTerra]

Thanks Steve!

[@wasmic5z]

I think some of the details on the Imperial Fist looked rather flat. Speedpaints also have a much richer, deeper yellow called Zealot Yellow - the paint is actually red when it's a thick layer, but bright yellow in a thin layer. I think the Fist could have benefitted a lot from a wash with a very thinned-down coat of Zealot Yellow to add some extra depth to the shadows.

[@MrSkullhead1]

Agreed! Zealot Yellow is amazing. Paint it over a pale yellow undercoat and you end up with a super vibrant, warm yellow with minimal work.

[@benjaminlord6844]

I really disliked zealot yellow for that exact reason. Go figure, I didn’t thin my paints! I’ll have to give it a second chance.

[@paulwatson317]

Really good review, love the fact you left in the fact the top come off the bottle on the red( always learning) . The only thing to say tho is naughty Peachy, I see you bite your nails like me 🤣

[@Rosstafa]

Really appreciate your unbiased review. I've just seen too many issues with Speedpaint to feel compelled to try them over contrast. I can paint over contrast, varnish it, mix it with other paints and have no issues, so I don't really feel the need to replace them. The only issue with contrast is that it is quite delicate - though I suspect this is probably a problem with a lot of these sorts of paints, as they're basically inks and inks do have durability issues.

[@thepaintingphase]

That’s completely fair 👍

[@DannertjeB]

very nice paintjob !! Iam covinced to buy the speedpaints 2.0

[@Slipperbatter]

Really enjoyed this. Cheers!

[@briochepanda]

To be fair the bleeding into the snow paste kinda looked like transparency of partially melting snow. Looked pretty cool I think.

[@stuartmortimer3922]

Really useful vid, I’m gonna pick up a box for sure 🎉

[@Rastlin-jk7rx]

Add pale sand to any original colour works as a highlight….thanks to DH 😊

[@TheArmyPainter]

Arid Earth, Toxic Mist, Necrotic Flesh, and Drake Tooth are also great - colour dependent.

[@richardokeeffe8375]

Great stuff. Glad you actually experimented with it. Maize yellow looked to have really disappointing shading vs the other colours

[@colinmorrison5119]

There are some particularly bright colours of several brands (newer Contrast, SP 2.0, Xpress) that don't seem to shade much. My suspicion is they're single-pigment colours.

[@ElAhrem]

Did anyone else fall about laughing at the flood of red in the wet palette? 😂

[@jimmyzimms]

Yeah I chuckled Totally have done that myself 😅

[@benjaminlord6844]

RIP Peachy‘s wet palette

[@ElAhrem]

@@benjaminlord6844 1 like = 1 prayer

[@doc_eyebrow]

Was the snow effect icing sugar? Maybe the red paint was mixing to make jam 🍓

[@JATrainsRC]

I don’t know what I’m doing wrong with maize yellow. I can’t get it to come out like that. I’ve tried over black primer, white primer and bone.

[@CesarTheKingVA]

I'm sorry, are you using contrast paints on a wet palette? How are you making that work?

[@The_WarL0rd_Way]

Thanks for doing this video!

[@volkarve]

I have the speed paint 1.0 starter set but haven't tried the 2.0. Great video as always! Also, why do you hate Orks?

[@MatsudairaTakuma]

So ive fou d my favourite citadel contrasts have done this retracting thing on models. Black legion is the main culprit, i did Black Widow from MCP and in certain area the paint retracted, i dont know if this was due to me apllying it over a matte varnished slapchopped model, but seeing it happen to you made me feel better.

[@AubLambe]

"Looks mega" I love you Peachy, so much. Idk how I have the same slang terms as you, maybe it's all the sheffield rock climbing videos I watch.

[@CalAndAly]

The Gravelord grey is the only contrast style paint over drybrushing that I’ve found works for slapchop-esque black armor - perfect for deathwatch, death company, etc! I could only find one obscure vid on it - hope you do a vid on it and pumped for this one!

[@sharkpyro93]

dont understand if this is a good set for a beginner starting out or the regular acrylic set will fit me better, i already tried to paint some blood angels and some death company with citadel acrylic with no issues but wanted to know it this product will be a better solution

[@primafacie5029]

Just started using speedpaints/contrast paints. Wow...

[@TurtleWargaming]

What did you use for primer in this video and what did you undercoat with?

[@jackdavenport4303]

It's nice to see they've solved the reactivation issue, hopefully the cracking issue is just a one off too.

[@terminator572]

The reactivation issue, the cracking issue, jfc these things are jankier than Stalker 1.0

[@3Dprint4you]

Did you notice a difference using the speed paints on a wet palette as opposed to not? I have watched several other 2.0 reviews and the paints seemed to go on differently, more pooling in the recesses and more opaque than the ones from the wet palette.

[@Crits-Crafts]

I think the pink cracking on the gun casing on the imperial fist actually looks really good...

[@mo_dakka]

Great video. I enjoy Speed Paint and I look forward to trying 2.0, but I'm finding I also like using layer paints in tandem. When I do use mostly speed paint/contrast paint, I find I can sometimes get uneven or splotchy results. Anyone else experience this?

[@RP-ck8ym]

I have had army painter washes crack on me like this. The acrylic shrinks too much it seems and splits from the surface. Something with the resin they use. Does not always happen. Happens more so with an oil-based primer like Rustoleum.

[@electrictrojan6719]

I could never fully understand the drama about speed paint, every single last acrylic ink can be reactivated, there are no exceptions.

[@Rosstafa]

I've not experienced this at all with contrast. Painted over them and varnished them without issues. I do use some Daler Rowney inks though and they do need to be treated carefully.

[@funkymoped537]

@@Rosstafa Contrast are overpriced and vary massively in consistency of effect. For what they're supposed to do, Speedpaint is the better range IMO.

[@shibaanimagaming4433]

I see a video on these paints the other day and the painter said they are better used not on a wet palette apparently

[@KelRiever]

I think this is a great review and a good product for Army Painter to put out. Fundamentally, I don't like the look of any high flow (Contrast/Speed/Whatever) on any Space Marine models. Nothing really saves on time if you want a good paint job, this one coat and done stuff to me is really better done by regular paints, sorry. The good news is...I think high flow paints are excellent as a tool in the kit, if you do multi-coats, and take the trouble to highlight as usual. Space Marines are cool, take the time!

[@MrSkullhead1]

I see them as more of a base coating option and/or a way to get really saturated colors with less work. Painting yellow Speed Paint over a pale yellow undercoat, for example, results in a really vibrant coat of paint.

[@CB-sf9mx]

I mentioned brushes before, please let us know what you are using if it is a brand brush. Id like to know what you use for the blood angel highlights

[@thepaintingphase]

I believe peach was using the army painter character brush here - Pat

[@CB-sf9mx]

@@thepaintingphase mercy bowcoop

[@MisterTingles]

immediately seems like the new medium is much more liquid than the 1.0 run, reminds me of the Vallejo XPress colors

[@CatCraine]

I'm curious, what type of sponge did you use for the tipping? It looked like a bit of steel wool that you had torn into a ball.

[@thepaintingphase]

Hey, it was some bits of the sponge you get in figure cases/packaging. Perfect for irregular chips

[@CatCraine]

@@thepaintingphase sweet, thanks!

[@vaderkoshpaints]

Always good to see reviews. Question from me is really, if I've already got a full set of Citadel Contrast, is there anything from Speedpaints that would be better that I need to pick up?

[@thepaintingphase]

Well they work the same, and I have all the citadel ones, however there’s a fair amount of tones that sit between citadel colours, or ones they don’t even do. There’s like 7 flesh tones which gives me more choice, so in short yeah you’ll have more choice. - peachy

[@victorgonzalez2927]

Could’ve let the bleeding into the snow be like reflection from the armor onto the snow.

[@j.taylor7361]

Do you find that 2.0 dries too fast? Is there a way to counteract that?

[@esaedvik]

Would the colour comparison list be available anywhere...asking for a heretic.

[@davidteel7701]

Have you tried blending Contrast paints with Speedpaints? I do some blends with Contrasts, and it'd be interesting to see if the two ranges mix well or if they react.

[@funkymoped537]

They mix fine...

[@cerberusbrig]

So the metal speedpaints are actually proper metallic? thats cool coz contrast doesn't do that. i was very disappointed when i realised Basilicanum Grey wasn't gonna work for my bolters

[@grendelb3298]

Thank you for this! Have you used the Peachy Flesh color yet? I'm wondering how well it will work for Eldar or elves. I have the hardest time painting skin colors. Thanks!

[@grimmriffer]

Contrast or speed metallics confuse me. Surely what you'd want from such a thing is a mix of dark pigments that settle into cracks, and metal flakes that stick to the high points... Probably impossible. What we get is either "behaves like a normal metallic" (like the gold) or "looks washed out and crap" (like the silver). A thought about cracking - did you thoroughly shake the bottles?

[@thepaintingphase]

Yeah the bottles were thoroughly shaken, but not stirred 👀👀👀

[@grimmriffer]

@@thepaintingphase probably forgot the olive then.

[@Fiddlemaster56]

This video makes me hugely concerned. I just bought the full set 2.0 and I am starting to hear about deep pools "cracking" when the paint dries. I'm super leery about opening up the box before considering returning it for a refund and getting the original 24 1.0. The reactivation that everyone talked about was nonexistence on the 4 colors I have.

[@samwisegame-geek3392]

He literally said he didn't have reactivation in the video

[@JamboJoker]

Looking forward to the episode focusing on Peachy Flesh

[@olivertwist7677]

maybe it`s off top. yes it probably off top. but i want to ask: what the AK interactive alternity to averland sunset ?

[@ChaplainAppollus]

I feel speed paints 2.0 needed to be flawless but there are still some doubts with it. With contrast paints being generally solid and the potential of Vallejo xpress colour i think army painter are not onto a winner with these

[@funkymoped537]

Contrast paints are overpriced and almost completely random in terms of consistency. Speedpaint 1.0 are/were vastly better.

[@ChaplainAppollus]

@@funkymoped537 keep drinking the cool aid. Wait for 3.0 so they can resale you the exact same product for the third time while you bend over and just take it

[@richardokeeffe8375]

Also what’s your snow?

[@53rdcards]

The large box clearly showed speed paint 2.0, and my experience with then is that it also says that on the bottle, but all of the bottles you showed in the video appear to be gen 1 that didn't have the 2.0 on the label, were the bottles just stock footage, did you get an early version that didn't have the labels yet? Something else?

[@thepaintingphase]

Early bottles, the labels got updated shortly afterwards.

[@evanstrong4064]

I really like this imperial fist scheme!!

[@rnp497]

good to get a honest review including things that went wonky

[@jinofthesheep]

What’s the recommended dry time between coats? Assuming it’s not quick if you’re using a hairdryer

[@thepaintingphase]

I think it's around 2 hours for it to properly cure. As we're filming with some tight deadlines we often use a hairdryer to speed up the process and get more painting into the day - Pat

[@Phoenikuz]

Always happy to see a "real world" review of paints, rather than the thought experiments of other channels. One thing that might be a fun test would be to do a Contrast application, allow it to pool somewhere and then blast it with the hairdryer to see if the same effect is recreated?

[@thepaintingphase]

Hmm nice shout. Maybe we’ll add that in a future vid 👍 - peachy

[@TheArmyPainter]

THIS! :)

[@ethannewman1905]

Please do a Ultramarine with Speed paint. I really haven’t found one video really doing it.

[@thepaintingphase]

Blue spray is always going to be weighed up against blue contrast paint. Might be a fun video in there though, we'll take a look! - Pat

[@Paul_Inman]

Recently I've been experimenting with two tone undercoats for speedpaints and I have found a dark brown (Hyrax brown from Colour Forge) base with something like Skeleton bone or Wraithguard zenithed or drybrushed over the top.

[@liquiddude9855]

You have to make under shadows when you paint with speedpaints

[@EPGelion]

Peach, I've heard friends say their Speedpaints, which I got them for Christmas, so, 1st generation, leaked through their wet palette and stained their sponge. Did you find that happening with 2nd gen?

[@KrullMaestaren]

Would personally, highly recommend that you change to a dry palette for these kinds of paints because they rely a lot more on the medium and composition of the paint. The problem is that the speed paint gets diluted over time in a wet palette. The same goes for contrast and all similar "special" paints. I can really see the separation in action if I add my Vallejo metal colors for airbrush by mistake on the wet palette and they don't like the extra water... oops 🙃 Bleed through can happen with paints and should be expected in wet palettes. Never caused problems though, just changed water and paper, cleaned the spoonge and it was as good as new. Used to "brown water" so continued painting more than once with contaminated without noticable sideeffects.

[@Ben-fk9ey]

I agree with the other person that you shouldn't use speedpaint/contrast on a wet pallet as it defeats the point of it. If you want to thin it out then use a medium, otherwise you want it as it comes out of the bottle!

[@TheArmyPainter]

We actually don't recommend using paints of this style on a wet palette. You lose control of the water application, and it can stain your sponge.

[@danscarfe7020]

Yeah I’ve got 1.0 and just use a dry palette for these. Never had reactivation issues either, but I do leave layers pretty much over night before I would be putting highlights over or anything.

[@paulbrooksbank1334]

Awesome review, is there any chance of a pdf of the comparison colours from the citadel range?

[@AnimatedIsaac]

“I’m excited to see how this works” he says as the painted model is right in front of him 😂 In all seriousness though, great video. Got the speedpaint starter set recently and they’re super handy.

[@thepaintingphase]

Ha! Yeah sometimes we have to add in shots……I’m apologises for ruining the flow 🤦‍♂️ 😂😂😂

[@Berndwilhelm-WH]

Never tried speed paints before never could get contrast to work for marines only more detailed models.

[@2ndHokageSol]

For some reason when I apply speed paints to smooth miniature parts it never looks good. It always looks really blotchy.