My Simple Off Grid Lithium Solar Install

[@alienwatcher777]

Great info. You do explain it well. Glad your including some people's comments, lots of ideas & other ways of seeing the same issue. Have a great day!

[@HowToRV]

I really appreciate that. I noticed that a lot of KZbinrs don’t really bring in what viewers say or bring to the channel. I want to let viewers know that I do care about their individual contributions.

[@markfowler6200]

The isolator you found on your camping trailer will keep the camper battery from connecting to the tow vehicle battery when the tow vehicle engine is not running, but when the tow vehicle is running, your load on the lithium batteries will still exceed the maximum output of a regular vehicle alternator. You still need to have a DC-DC converter if the alternator can provide current to the lithium batteries. There also is a device that just reduces the duty cycle of the power from the alternator to the DC feed off the tow vehicle; it keeps the alternator from overheating.

[@HowToRV]

I see how that works now. I am going to hook up the truck and use the shunt to give me feedback to get a view of what is going on. Thanks for the description.

[@scrub175]

@@HowToRVwhat were the finding from this test?

[@brandonottenhof2341]

Thanks for the shout out Jason, You even pronounced my last name right. Nobody ever gets it right. Hahaha. I’m was hoping you would plug her in and show us how it works. But I’m sure that is gonna be the next video. Looking forward to it. I’m in the process of doing almost the exact same install on our 2021 grey wolf. We were camping in May and had a massive storm blow in and all power to the park was lost and trees were blocking access to all exit roads so couldn’t even leave if we wanted to. That’s kinda when I got the same idea as you to be able to plug my trailer into my trailer. I started with the Dc-Dc charger when I got home because during the time we were without power the only option I had to charge batteries were my little 50watt solar panel ( juice pack) on the roof and my truck. So I had to run my truck for almost 8 hours to charge the batteries to keep the lights and fridge working. I happened to have a multimeter with me and only had 5 amps of charging going to my battery from my truck at 12.8 volts. Having more solar would of helped me a bit too. I was thinking of putting them on the roof. But I like your setup of it being portable and you can put it where they are going to get the most sun. Can’t wait to see your install in action. Keep up the awesome videos.

[@HowToRV]

You welcome Brandon. I am working on some more videos on the actual system in play. The hard part is that it has been very very hot here as of late and this system really lends itself to cooler temperatures. I am hoping to show the whole system in action in a few weeks. I really need the weather to break to do that though. Until then, I plan on showing the upgrades in parts as I can. Sorry to hear about the storm. That is tough for sure. Having alternatives is a must like you said.

[@JarheadAndGingersJourney]

Great share and love that you answer viewer questions at the end. 👍🏻

[@HowToRV]

I thought that it was a great way to let the community know that I really like there input. Thanks for stopping by.

[@ThriftyAngela]

Really great info and very well explained. I love that you're starting to do shout-outs and highlighting people's comments. Great job!

[@HowToRV]

Thanks so much! I really want my viewer to know that I am listening to them.

[@timothyculliver1993]

Great Job, I think you enjoyed this project. Looks nice!

[@HowToRV]

I really have so far. Now comes the testing part. The fun side of seeing how the system will help me.

[@paulv6592]

Good set-up. You should not have any other battery negatives connected before the shunt; that way the shunt can more accurately calculate all electrical current that has gone in and out of the battery.

[@HowToRV]

You are absolutely correct. That is something I had to learn as I started this project.

[@markfowler6200]

Since I don't see a complete wiring diagram, I'm not 100 percent sure of this...your DC disconnect switch needs to be between the battery and the 12V distribution (Fuse Box). It seems to me (and I could be wrong here) that your parasitic loads are not disconnected. Your DC disconnect simply removes power from the inverter. The DC circuits would still be powered by the batteries. You can check this easily, if you turn off your DC disconnect, do the Carbon Monoxide and LP sensor lights turn off? If still on, you're not isolating the battery. I did exactly what you did but I put another DC disconnect between the battery and the fuse panel. Mine's a little different, the DC Fusebox is fed from the Positive Lead distribution bar. I hope this makes sense. Also since you can just unplug your portable solar, you don't need a separate switch on the solar DC input toward the batteries. Good Job! I like it!

[@HowToRV]

I like the idea of an additional disonnect. I think that I will do the same. For my setup though, I have a campsite type of setup at home and my RV is never unplugged but I could see where this could effect others. I may go ahead and add another disconnect for another video. Thanks.

[@Wesleyco83]

When you installed the inverter under your bed, did you put some type of venting so it doesn’t get too hot? If so, does that venting go in your camper and does that heat up your camper?

[@HowToRV]

I did put a vent in to let the hot air exscape. The venting does go into the capmer but I do not run the inveter to its max capacity all of the time so the heat buildup does not need to turn the fan on all the time.