My Telescope Family: Lunt LS80MT

[@MrJonndoe]

Awesome informative video, thank you 😊

[@ruthlessrog1]

Nice! Always enjoy new APark upload

[@misaelescobarruiz3107]

Que bien un telescopio es un instrumento muy útil para conocer el cielo nocturno yo tengo 3 telescopios dos detractores y un catadioptrico Saludos desde comayagua Honduras

[@jpastroguy]

That is a very interesting telescope design of which I was not aware. Thanks Kwasi!

[@mysterymanla6158]

Great informative video. Very nicely narrated too!!!

[@davidpippin3460]

Nice work with the solar pictures! Keep the videos coming!

[@MicrobyteAlan]

Interesting and well presented. Thanks.

[@Naztronomy]

Great video! I love my Lunt 40 and wish they made dedicated h-alpha scopes between 50 and 152mm. I think they used to but stopped.

[@MountainFisher]

I prefer a quality R&P focuser over a Crayford, just more solid. Even though my Explore Scientific CF 102mm triplet came with a Crayford it is pretty stout and I'm sure wouldn't slip being a 2.5" Hexagonal focuser. I couldn't afford the MT series so I bought the 50mm-B600 for visual. Although I will do some photography I'm not crazy about processing monochrome data into color so I haven't tried it yet, plus I don't have a mono camera.

[@PeterLindstrom-x4w]

Well...the H-alpha line wavelength is still measured in nm, just like with night filters. But the width of the spectral line allowed through is measured in angstroms. You could do the same thing thing with OIII or whatever line or bandpass filter you wanted to.

[@AstroParkAstrophotography]

That's what I was referring to...and this is why it's never recommended to use a nighttime H-alpha filter with the Sun. Because the width of the spectral line on a nighttime filter is still not narrow enough, and the Sun's rays at the focal point will damage the filter in the process.

[@Space-Stuff]

Hi Kwasi, what an excellent review. It was quite complete. I thought, for a second there, that you were going to overlook the Solarfinder in the handle of the LS80MT. But, as usual, you faked me out with your style of describing the different aspects for the various parts of the system. I should have known that you weren't going to miss a single thing. Although, I do have one question, if you don't mind. Since this is a modular system, why can't the etalon be removed from the focuser so the existing focuser can be reinstalled into the back end of the LS80MT? It would certainly save $200 - $300 of cost for the additional focuser and it would be less parts and weight that you would have to carry around in the hard case! Anyway, thank you for this review. I always enjoy your videos. Sincerely, Richard Williams Astor, Florida 32102 USA!

[@AstroParkAstrophotography]

Thank you Richard! When I first purchased this and specified the focuser that I wanted, Lunt included the spare night time focuser as a part of the package. At first glance to me, the etalon/focuser combination was fused together. So I believe that's why the spare focuser was also included.

[@robmailconway]

Nice telescope if you can afford it. I would like one. Very Expensive.

[@asdasdasdasd4664]

Hey man, great video, as always! I really like how you explain every part in detail - I always see people mention all the specific terms (such as etalons, doublet system, ED element) in a video but I don't always know what is meant by them, so it's very refreshing to see you explain every term like this. Just one thing wasn't clear to me - what is the difference between the two focuser types?

[@jasonpatterson8091]

A rack and pinion focuser uses a rack and pinion (shocking, huh?) to move the focuser tube. The rack is a metal plate with gear teeth cut along its length and the pinion is a small gear connected to the focuser knob that can be turned to push or pull the rack along. A well made rack and pinion focuser can have quite long travel and works smoothly. However, because it uses gears there is backlash and they are single speed devices. A Crayford focuser uses a set of bearings pressed against the outside of the focuser tube to keep it in place while a smooth rod connected to the focuser knob moves the focuser in and out using friction. A Crayford focuser will have smoother motion (and usually dual speed focusing) than a comparable quality rack and pinion but will typically be heavier, more expensive, and there is a small possibility that the focuser will slip if it has a very heavy load and is oriented straight upward. Most of this isn't really a concern, except perhaps if you're trying to keep the weight of your system down assuming you're buying a decent focuser to begin with.

[@asdasdasdasd4664]

@@jasonpatterson8091 Great explanation! Thanks a lot :)

[@miertjestoer9525]

Hi, how you find this scope for visual use? And, what was the highest magnification you have use or how much it can handle ? ( this is why peoples buy a bigger scope...to see the dynamics🔥 of an bigger image (?). Thanks for the tip. Andre.🔭

[@AstroParkAstrophotography]

Visually, the telescope performs great! As a rule of thumb, when using your eyepieces, the highest useful magnification that can be used on any telescope is two times the aperture in millimeters. To figure out the magnification, divide the focal length of the telescope by the focal length of the eyepiece. If that number is less than the highest useful magnification, you should be good to go.