DELL U2515H 1440p Monitor NOT WORKING - Can I FIX it?

[@Sloxx701]

Hi Vince, a few things. To find a mosfet online, wherever you see an "N" in its number, there will generally be two numbers preceding it and two numbers following it (sometimes there will be other letters like M or L as well). In this case, it is 15N15. These two numbers generally are supposed to represent Drain source voltage, and drain current, and the letter N represents N-channel. Some manufacturers can make it confusing though, but you can use this as a guideline. There are other naming conventions as well for mosfets, like 2SK, IRF, etc. The mosfet that you chose - IRF510 - will work, but not sure for how long. It is drastically underrated, the IRF510 is 5A drain current vs the original 15N15 is 50A. The voltage is underrated as well, and the capacitances are wildly different (in a switching power supply, capacitances of switching FETs are important) - Ciss (input capacitance) of the IRF510 is 180pF vs 3560pF of the 15N15, gate charge is 8nC vs 63nC, etc. This can affect duty cycle and "dead time" in switching transitions, rise times, ringing, and even create unwanted resonances in the circuit. When you start using more than one switching FET, such as in a push-pull circuit or a half bridge, these capacitances become even more critical. In your little box of FETs there, the IRF640 would be a better choice, as many of its specs are closer to the original, though capacitance are still somewhat off and it is only 15A rated. Also, transistors in this style are a TO-220 package. If you are looking for a transistor with an insulated tab instead of the metal one, this would be TO-220F or TO-220FP.

[@Mymatevince]

Brilliant info Dacke, really useful to me and everyone else reading it. Thanks for taking the time to post it 👍👍👍👍

[@RealNovgorod]

The 15N15 has 15A current, not 50A, so his alternative isn't that much underrated, especially considering that the monitor surely won't take more than 100W of continuous DC power for the panel and control board. Of course it's better to get the right spec'd one eventually for long-term reliability. The capacitance also shouldn't matter much, since the switching frequencies are low (surely below 1MHz) and the switching circuit is self-regulating. It's interesting though why his first 2 choices didn't work - I guess because the voltage rating was too low. That would imply a really high voltage on the "primary" side (around 100V?) and a very short duty cycle of the MOSFET.

[@Sloxx701]

@@RealNovgorod The datasheet actually says 50A, I thought it was 15A as well - Link removed, part number is MTE015N15RFP (cant post links in replies I guess) Regardless, 50A on a switcher is somewhat overkill for what looks like a flyback design, I agree with you. It could be a typo or maybe that part was just all they could easily get from their suppliers. Parasitic capacitances are always important in SMPS designs, and switching frequencies are almost always low (usually 500-700kHz or less). If they are off somewhat in a lower power design like this, it *shouldn't* matter, but they were off about as much as they could be. This will affect the drive signal, the duty cycle, time spent in the linear region, and heat and power loss. The feedback network can compensate for this, but only so much. Sure it will work, but I don't know for how long. And as I stated, if there is more than one switcher, such as a push-pull or chopper design, Coss can affect how long the fet stays turned on/off. If one fet has not turned off before the other has turned on, you have a direct short and catastrophic failure (both fets are on). This is actually a common mistake people have made when subbing fet replacements and cant figure out why it keeps failing in less than a few minutes after power up. All the specs match, but they neglected to check the capacitance and rise/fall time values. The only reason I mention capacitance in this instance is because it is off between those two fets by 20(!) orders of magnitude, and that's quite significant.

[@RealNovgorod]

@@Sloxx701 That's all true, but in this case it's just a single MOSFET, so at most it will reduce efficiency a bit and maybe add some more ripple. Regarding the 15N15 specs, I just looked at the first datasheet that showed up in the search (part number is exactly 15N15 from ISC) and it's rated for 150V, 15A continuous. But it's also a TO-3 package, not TO-220, and probably the manufacturers aren't too consistent with their part numbers anyway.

[@Sloxx701]

@@RealNovgorod Strange I didn't see that datasheet, but I ended up at a cystech MTE015N15RFP and its a 50A TO-220FP part. But yes with 15N15 it should be 15A, which I think is fine. I think he will be fine with the IRF640 for now, however I would eventually replace it with a closer match or an upgraded part if he plans to sell the monitor to someone. The first two choices he tried I didn't look at very closely, but now I'm curious so I'll watch it again. (I skimmed through some parts)

[@randallstephens1680]

This video saved me $200 and kept one more monitor from becoming e-waste. My monitor had a different problem (blown fuse) but the diagnostic procedures in this video taught me what to check. Thank you.

[@Pablus96]

Vince is so honest. I think it’s VERY important to recognize when we don’t know how to fix things BUT, what he does is even more important cause he tries again and again even if it’s just for learning. Congratulations for videos like these ones when we all end up learning something

[@WesleyNixon]

This has got to be one of my favorites! A lesson for being methodical and just trying stuff.

[@Mymatevince]

Nice one Wesley, thank you 👍

[@Fatcatbaz]

Hi Vince there is a guy called Sorin who works in a repair shop in London. He runs a KZbin channel called electronic repair school. He has numerous videos that take you through diagnosing SMPS boards. I'm about the same level as yourself on electronic fault finding and Sorin's videos have been a massive help in teaching me to understand how a SMPS works and how to fault find. He also uses very basic tools and a multimeter. Seriously well worth watching. Keep up the good work Vince I really look forward to your videos.. Cheers Baz

[@alanbenson1505]

Sorin is fantastic.

[@TurboBass]

He's very entertaining!

[@kriswillems5661]

Diodegonewild specializes in power supplies.

[@semiRockethr]

Learn Electronics Repair as excellent channel as well.

[@meherhjb7170]

Diodegonewild is the master of power supply Sorin from electronic repair school il also good and funny

[@Timothycan]

I confess to cheating on a similar problem once, with a TV. I noticed that the 12v (on that model) was missing, so I just bought an off the shelf 12v PSU unit and built it in instead! Well done, Vince.

[@oldskoolhead0]

this is something i was gonna suggest, a 19v laptop power brick probably would have done the job and you wouldnt have the problem of trying to secure and fit it within, just fit a compatible dc barrel jack socket somewhere and have the psu external instead

[@MrLatte27]

@@oldskoolhead0 I have a few of these with known power supply issues and if any of mine fail this is exactly what ill be doing, I have a bunch of 19v laptop power supplies laying around that will work.

[@DanielCoffey67]

The UltraSharp monitors are some of Dell's good ones! I have the 27" U2715H and it is awesome! The little stick-on covers on the lower edge are intended to cover the clip points for the Dell SoundBar.

[@1414141x]

Great to see someone willing to put the work in and fix something. What a great example of the ridiculous state we are in that things we buy if they break down are just throw away and replaced. A friend of mine works at a Dyson returns place in Gloucester and he tells me virtually all of Dyson returns are scrapped - very little is re-used, and some of the returns are from stockists so have never even been unboxed but because they have not sold are outdated. Hundreds of thousands retail price of goods scrapped. It is really disgusting.

[@MartinMurray1966]

They do that, so that they dont lower the price of the newer dysons. Even if they allowed the older unused items to be sold cheaply , it would then reflect on the price of the items they are trying to sell. Same as why burberry and all other high cost item manufacturers do when they get old stock, its better if they destroy it.

[@mjrdainbramage]

Nice fix Vince! By the way; I have used similar models at my office for many years, and my primary monitor (Dell 24") is now 10+ years old. If you want audio on the screen you can check for original soundbars for your particular model, as several of Dell's models support this. A quick search indicates that a soundbar with the designation AC511 should be correct for your monitor. The blanking panels that you removed from the bottom is there to hide the mounting brackets for the soundbar.

[@BaerStein1]

I have that soundbar for my dell u2515h und it is good enough for everything. did not use it much lately, because of my new headphones i can wear all day long, but still works and sounds good to me. (of course it is not a 100€ speakerset, but it does the job)

[@jakthebomb]

Oh, we have thousands of these monitors at my job. I work in our IT department as our Mac Administrator. Usually we toss them because people crack the LCD panel, I don’t recall us ever having one with a failed power supply.

[@bobbybob6597]

Not many better feelings in the world than you fix something in this way yourself! Good work

[@devonwilson5776]

Greetings. The absolutely best feeling. It is quite exhilarating to restore life to something that was dead. The joy is indescribable.

[@yukiba2809]

You did a good job. "I also have the same model LED that does not light up." It helped me find the fault. thank you

[@JonPadfield]

Really enjoyed this one Vince. I Had an Ultrasharp years ago which I used for photo editing as it was colour calibrated. Best monitor I ever had. It broke in a similar fashion to this and I've never found one quite as good for colour accuracy.... Wish I'd tried to fix it now, lol.

[@Tim_3100]

Got a 24in 1080p samsung curved its okay not higher but colour accuracy is really good but calibrated with colour munki to gpu

[@1alexwel]

4:50 I don't think those clips were meant to disassemble it, but it's meant for a optional speaker bar you can mount underneath the monitor.

[@paultasker7788]

We’ve got these at work. Smaller dell version but with the internal power supply and same controls/lights. If the mains lead works it’s way loose slightly from moving it about it will arc badly. Need to power down at the plug socket to reseat it again otherwise you get arcing noises and sparks when trying to push it back in. Not sure if that could blow a component. Feel that’s a bit of a design fault. The fit could be better. Only takes a few people to move it on the desk a bit and it’s come out. I much prefer external PSU as a result which seems to stay in well and it’s low voltage at the monitor end. Great fix. Lovely monitor. Impressive way of testing the mosfet and fixing it. Looks to be stable.

[@Mymatevince]

Thanks Paul, I have the same issue with the cable on the PS4 Pro, so loose and has been from when it was new. It doesn't spark but it doesn't inspire confidence either 👍👍👍

[@paultasker7788]

@@Mymatevince arcing is not good for sensitive electronics. Might be worth seeing if you can use a different cable if a different one fits more smugly. Another risk will be accidentally powering down in the middle of use which is not good for ssd or hard drive. If you never move it however it’s probably not such an issue.

[@robertriley5352]

You can use a plastic screw insert and clear fiber insulator to secure the mosfet to heat sink. This is commonly used in many ground sensitivity components 😊

[@stephenhood2948]

My ex GF had lent me an old Alienware monitor that quit when I was using it. Surely nothing I did caused it to quit, it was fairly old, but I felt bad none the less. Same thing, just dead, no power light, nothing. I did take it apart and check for any fuses, but didn't see any obvious ones, but I didn't check anything on the power supply. You just gave me some really good things to ck, thanks so much!! Great video!!

[@StezStixFix]

Superb fault finding on this one, Vince. I hope it carries on working for many more months to come! I wonder whether you could get a nylon screw to secure the mosfet? Not sure if that would work, but the cable tie option is usually a good one! 👍

[@Mymatevince]

Good idea with the nylon screw. Hopefully I will be able to buy the correct MOSFET when this goes live. Cheers Steve 👍

[@The-Weekend-Warrior]

While a nylon screw could mechanically work, as the mosfet heats up, it can become brittle and give in. The proper solution here is to get an insulated mosfet and screw in the metal screw IMHO....

[@The-Weekend-Warrior]

@@ErrorMessageNotFound Ehh...true, true :))) I didn't think that one really through :D Thanks!!

[@Njazmo]

@@Mymatevince Look for "to-220 insulator kit", that would solve the problem with metal mosfets. Oh, and that heatsink isn't painted, it's anodized aluminum. Great work anyways, keeping it safe. Happy holidays!

[@TheITMechanic]

One thing I noticed that you are cleaning the device with much care 👍,I can feel how much passionate you are. That shows you are a very good technician.Keep up the good work 👍👍👍

[@Akilisgothik]

Hi Vince, I loved watching this fix and learnt alot 🎉 love from india 🇮🇳

[@mikeymo28]

Brilliant. Watched a number of DIYs, most have no talking just music. Learnt a lot about this repair. Shall be testing the MOSFETs on my Dell U2412M…

[@retrocomputeruser]

Vince you can get T0-220 insulating kits for those transistors. They are cheap and adding a little thermal paste to the mica on both sides transfers the heat without conducting.

[@jonathanpalmer155]

Silicone ones available too.

[@chasefournier]

Mosfet's are like my number one check on a power supply if caps aren't buldging. Great video vince!

[@oldishgrum]

Have the same monitor and it has served me well. First on home PC, now I use it instead of the work issued one. IIRC there is a headphone jack and the sound is passed over the HDMI so you can attach a pair of speakers

[@Annies_E_P]

Hi Vince. Old history now I guess, but a more permanent solution for the conductive tab transistor is to use a mica washer which come in all shapes and sizes to suit - beware they are VERY delicate! + & nylon bolt (or through hole insulator if using the original bolt) with lots of lovely thermal paste

[@povilasstaniulis9484]

Congrats on your fix ! This is decent mid-range 2K 60Hz monitor from 2017-2018. Not a bad score. Looks like the panel is made by LG. Their panels seem to last forever, I have a couple monitors from 2000s still working perfectly to this day. That single-rail 20V PSU is a bit strange, monitor mainboards do need more than one voltage rail and there's no voltage conversion circuitry on the PSU itself. Most likely the mainboard was designed so that it could run on external 19V PSU as well as internal one. In case if you ever need to replace/fix the PSU again, It should't be too hard to convert this monitor to run on external power.

[@argee99]

Right on the money. An old laptop power brick could be whacked in for sure.

[@taffowst]

You channel cost me money, whenever i watch one of your videos i end up buying a project. Recently fixed 7 elgato capture cards and a few ps5 controllers!

[@Mymatevince]

🤣🤣🤣👍

[@Jpc15]

Wow I just started watching your channel and I started with the older videos, you've really gotten so much better

[@azmoz1321]

Brilliant repair Vince. So glad you were able to fix it even after eBay seller had it apart already.

[@andythomas7931]

Nice one mate another fun adventure. If you look back through this vid you'll see the backlights came on when you upped the amps which was a good sign. Well done!

[@MayaPosch]

Still have three of those Ultrasharp U2515Hs in a triple monitor setup today. Been using them since 2015 and they're still going strong. Great to know about that MOSFET as a potential weakness, hope I never need to replace the ones in mine, but if they were to fail, at least I'd have some place to start with repairing them :)

[@ogorekkiszony7236]

power supplies are no joke. I once was measuring a laptop power supply with a multimeter, and I accidentally put the multimeter to two contacts and shorted them. there was then a huge bang and a flash. fortunately I was not shocked and the fuse saved me from a fire. from then on I will never touch a power supply, even with almost 7 years experience in various electronics.

[@KB1UIF]

Hi Vince, When looking for a replacement MOSFET you can normally go Higher in Voltage rating and higher in current rating. Similar to choosing a replacement capacitor Higher voltage and higher value of Farad.This works MOST of the time, but obviously if you have the specification of the original one go with that. Being slightly over rated should not cause any issues. It was nice to see you using a proper de-soldering tool instead of one of those hand de-soldering pumps, they are so much cleaner and better to use, good job !!

[@acumenium8157]

This applies for most electrical things, doesn't it? Overspeccing (higher voltage/amperage than device calls for) is fine but NEVER EVER underspeccing?

[@TurboBass]

If anything, going slightly above spec means longer life since you're using it at a lower overall load rating. Same is true when selecting PSU's for computers. Always go above the recommended. My total machine power is ~300w under load and I have an 850w PSU. Been working smooth for almost a decade now. (Knock on wood)

[@KB1UIF]

@@acumenium8157 Generally yes, unless its a fuse of course !! You can have issues going too high or low a value with capacitors and obviously resistors. So there are limits.

[@acumenium8157]

@@TurboBass Yeah. My laptop literally can't draw more than 150W no matter what I do. OEM PSU literally fried after about ~2.5 years, so I had to get an aftermarket replacement. Got a 180W one as the wattage doesn't matter as long as it's the same or higher, same with the input voltage/amperage, just NEVER go lower.

[@acumenium8157]

@@KB1UIF Make senses. Whole parts like a PSU or voltage regulator may be able to handle differences (since they have to, as no appliance will draw the same value always), but capacitors/resistors know exactly what they're supposed to be doing and not much else.

[@RetroUpgrade]

Really Nice video Vince Your videos inspires me to keep going on my small channel. I can still remember when you didn't even know what a power rail was but you never gave up . Great deduction on the mosfet value. switch mode power supplies are a pain to work on! keep up the great work .👍

[@stephenremillard9462]

I really enjoyed that video. It was worth the insane amount of advertisement interruptions. I have a similar monitor that unexpectedly stopped working also. Guess what will be this weekend project😊

[@PilzQ]

I really liked that you used lofi/chill music while cleaning the stand and back. fits perfectly.

[@helgedell]

I love how you sometimes falls ass backwards into beeing a genious, and don't pretend anything else. Superb channel.

[@Mymatevince]

🤣👍Thanks Helge

[@lokesh5]

Excellent Troubleshooting skills.. Very easy to the beginners to learn a step by step procedure to fix the Power supply issues.

[@huntershortrepairs]

Vince, you’ve convinced me to start doing this myself on KZbin! I’ve always fixed broken things, many times things that be never worked with before. Perhaps it’s time I start making the effort to record it 😅 thanks for the amazing content!

[@Mymatevince]

Thanks Hunter, go for it👍👍👍

[@huntershortrepairs]

@@Mymatevince I plan to! Friend of mine is selling me a faulty Shark Robot vacuum, never bothered with one of those before, could be a good video for sure! I’ll have to get me a blue mat and a good screw driver set. Anything specific you would recommend as a good inexpensive tool set?

[@Mymatevince]

@@huntershortrepairs Originally, I just used a £15 set from Amazon, but a couple of years ago I purchased a £30 iFixit tool kit and it is really nice. I use that all the time now👍

[@huntershortrepairs]

@@Mymatevince Excellent, I’ll look into that! I actually had a cheap set I bought from Amazon a few years ago, but over the years my brother used it and bits went missing, then it fell and everything fell out of place, I’ve not used it since.. 😂

[@Mymatevince]

@@huntershortrepairs 🤣

[@vurusko]

Watching on the same Dell, even older. I don't shut it down ever and it works well. Thanks for the clue if I ever need it.

[@antonoudenhoven7573]

This was a nice one. Well done 👏. You are inspiring me to go and start whit simple thing to repair. Like controllers and stuff. I always sucked in electronics,so i watch as much as i can on channels like yours. Thank you

[@EngineerLewis]

Nice work Vince - I am watching you on dual Dell U2412M monitors with the same stand features - these are great/fantastic monitors for folks who don't need 4K!

[@0rtmasta]

I've had a few Dell Products. What you showed when you first opened it up is exactly how I've been greeted with a mint, never opened Dell. They may be considered a quality brand but their parts and the way their put together are super shabby.

[@ekens6344]

Looks like the original MOSFET is a Cystech MTE015N15RFP. If you look at the last page of the datasheet, the markings are the same and the last line 6M03 would be the date code (6 = 2016, M = December, maybe, this seems a little too close to the Jan 2017 date on the monitor though!). Doesn't seem available to buy in small quantities but maybe that will help in finding a suitable alternative if you ever need one!? Great fix anyway!

[@Mymatevince]

Thank you ekens63, nice one👍

[@eolhcytoos]

Highly impressed with this sir. Your presentation is excellent as is your narrative. Very glad that I came across your channel. I will be back for more!

[@johnogsii7976]

G'day Vince, you persistence is something to be admired, many a people would have given up. Well done!

[@andre-le-bone-aparte]

Just found your channel. Excellent Content - Looking forward to more Power Supply and Monitor repair videos!

[@kyleadonis5451]

I had the exact same issue with an LG TV PSU, I found a faulty Mosfet with are three pins shorting also a blown fuse, I found a replacement Mosfet and fuse and installed it then it came alive. It's the best feeling when you solve a PSU issue

[@aleksandrbmelnikov]

It will work just fine. Slip a mica sheet behind it, and cover top with pad. Take apart small paper binder clip. Cut middle section of black painted spring metal to fit over your new MOS FET. Clamp that little bugger in place. Well done, good sir. Enjoy!

[@AERVBlog]

Nice job Vince. As StezStix Fix says that is a 15N15. I think the case style is called a TO220-3-313. What you need with what you have there is a smaller diameter bolt, a mica or other isolation pad and a little plastic washer that has a flange that goes inside the hole to keep the screw from touching the metal. I think it is called a TO220 mounting kit. What you need (I think) is a IPA105N15N3 G which is a 150V 37 amp Mosfet about $5 american from DIgikey. I think what you put in is 9.7A at 100V. I don't know how long that will last, not because of the current draw but the voltage. Keep up the good work. (I did subscribe).

[@theQdomain]

Great video! You would not believe how many monitors I have junked with similar symptoms. Not anymore. I have some experience with electronics so I’m at least going to do some trouble shooting inside before trashing another one. Save the planet for the grandkids. Thanks for sharing!

[@bitum21]

Hey vince the bottom covers you popped out are actually for the sound bar! Nice fault finding BTW it´s allways nice to see your videos!

[@soscilogical1904]

Very awesome episode. My 24' dell monitor power died so I queried if I can just add a 20v from a different PSU and tape it on and the guys said there is probably some complex power system with 5V going to other rails and it needs a custom PSU.

[@iantyler4045]

I have one of those component testers. They are invaluable. Anyone who works on electronics needs one of those. Cheap as chips on ebay. Nice fault finding on that monitor. Get some TO220 insulation kits and it will be 100%.

[@eddw123]

Not bad 👍, many technicians did not survive the transition of technology and many are not ready for what is already coming 😎, it is fun to play with electrons 😁

[@phoenixtiger101tube]

Amazing work Vincent. I had a request for your next videos. Could you recap the steps you have done to find the issue before the video ends? It will be helpfull for people like me to understand better what have you done. Thanks

[@devonwilson5776]

Greetings. Thanks for sharing and thanks to the educational and informative responses provided by the commentators respecting mosfets specifications and operations. Thanks.

[@danielpeters1911]

now then a shock wouldn't be that exciting it would certainly give people a buzz great video as always

[@TheDefpom]

I have a plastic screw assortment, it’s perfect for when you need to insulate a transistor from the mounting surface.

[@Mymatevince]

Cheers Scott 👍

[@JasonSmith-tv2zw]

I was willing you to use the 100V Mosfet and you started with a tiny one. Very enjoyable to watch, apart from the bit where I thought you got a shock

[@j.lietka9406]

Nice capacitor discharge cable! A double fuse protection. Interesting! I have a Dell 24" 1200p monitor similar to yours, has a problem where it won't turn on, no power light .. haven't opened it up yet, am watching your videos! Thank you 🤓 300 + VDC? I will take the same precautions!

[@AltonTRU]

I have been watching your videos for 5 years remember me please

[@chrisred87]

Smashed it Vince well done!

[@Mymatevince]

Thanks so much 👍👍👍

[@eliax600]

It always amazes me your so called "not-professional" ability!!!! You are super!!!! Well Done🤩🤩🤩🤩

[@TheClembo]

Very well done Vince, you got me glued to this video. Well done for your persistence and fortitude. ATB

[@Rejetor]

the sneezing and the broken glass effect caught me off guard.... that was a nice touch. xD

[@amurtigress_mobile365]

Quick idea since I am at 40:00 ... Why not, if all else fails, use a notebook power supply? 19V should be fine, and 3 Amps. i.e. a 90W notebook PSU. Quick and dirty solution but likely to work...

[@samuelfielder]

Well done. I compared the datasheets of the two mosfets that didn't work for you (IRFZ44N and IRF3205), the one that did work (IRF510N) against that of the original Cystek MTE015N15RFP hoping to see an important difference that would explain why one replacement worked and other two did not. Unfortunately, I could not find the reason. All four mosfets have the same Vgs(th) gate threshold voltage of 2 to 4 volts. They have similar capacitances and switching times. The only notable difference was that your replacement that worked (IRF510N) has notably higher Rds(on): max 0.54 Ohms versus 20 milliOhms in the original part. That is actually a disadvantage and might explain why you get 19 rather than 20 volts out (although the output voltage ouught to be regulated by the optoisolator feedback loop). So, on the basis of the datasheets, I think all your three replacements should have worked!

[@tonyweavers4292]

Could the ones that didn't work just be poor quality?

[@tyronenelson9124]

@@tonyweavers4292 Nope, just the wrong type.

[@BogdanTheGeek]

Its more likely that the back emf from the inductor blew them up and the higher voltage one survived.

[@tyronenelson9124]

@@BogdanTheGeek This is why mosfets do actually have an internal diode across the source and drain terminals.

[@BogdanTheGeek]

@@tyronenelson9124the diode is actually a sideproduct of the manufacturing processes. It might not be able to handle the current. In any case, we don't know the input voltage to the buck converter, so all we can do is guess.

[@thabenzAMG]

nice to see a video in the week-end for us to be relaxed

[@henriksegercrantz362]

Hi. I did the exact procedure with my not working Dell screen. (Did not succeed though!) But when looking at the old MOSFET, same as yours I assume without the metal heat plate I could see the small text on it It is a PK7NK80ZFP (GKO1Y V33 CHN 542) Good luck for those others trying.😊

[@mikethedigitaldoctorjarvis]

Well done Vince,you put a lot of work in to that ! 😊

[@chefhawk]

Amazing ...always great when you make it work in the end. Keep them coming. cheers

[@Evaldas65]

Absolutely brilliant fix. I'm learning from you, keep these kinds of fixes up! :)

[@PaulRansonArt]

Another great save Vince and one less monitor going into the bin. Merry Crimbo!

[@Ariannus]

Those slots in the bottom of the monitor are actually mounts for a speaker bar but they do come in handy for removing the back of the monitor.

[@tyronenelson9124]

Don't get your p channel or your n channel mosfets mixed up, its easy to find out which one is which by how or what rail they are connected to in the circuit.

[@BikerBloke600]

Hi Vince, Very Well Done. Mike 👍👏🍻

[@Mymatevince]

Cheers Mike! 👍👍🍻

[@TerryDeSimone]

*** - I was wrong... I didn't see the pinout diagram tho.. I give you props... when you were cleaning at the end was that IPA you used to clean the screen ?????

[@kennynvake4hve584]

There is a plastic washer made especially for that style transistor that insulates the metal part and the screw from the heatsink. And you use a heatsink pad, or mica to insulate the transistor from the heatsink.

[@jobbie4997]

Massive thumbs up here, nice repair and kudos for fighting the disposable attitude of consumers and manufacturers.

[@zlane71]

There are no switching mosfets on the cold, output side of smps. The only thing you can have is dual output diode, usually with common cathode as a middle pin. Try with MUR16xxCT, 16A 200v. On the output of the secondary you have 20v AC which is first picked up by one anode and when it changes polarity the other anode and you get 20V dc constantly through a common cathode and to the output. Mosfets can pick up output voltage from the secondary like in your case but they are supposed to switch primary coil on the hot side. I think there are two of them in your power supply.

[@SimonZerafa]

If you connect that monitor to a Windows PC check out the Dell Monitor software. Quite useful and most monitors support DCC/CI so you can control them with software as well as the front panel buttons on the monitor 🙂

[@CitizenTechTalk]

Wow what a save!! Excellent work sir!

[@BaerStein1]

I got my u2515h from dell directly back then, as a new replacement for my used (i think) 2414 from amazon marketplace. Because the 2414 had some bios issues and i think it was easier for them to give me a new one. Still a great monitor especially for people that not need higher refresh rate.

[@OrangeSka]

As always, love to hear that Yes when fix is going well. Nice job 👍 And a happy new year 🎄

[@brianjames6890]

Hi Vine, Happy New Year. I thoughrouly enjoyed your video most enlightening. Will certainly be looking forward to your next one.Regards, Brian

[@kefler187]

PS ON will usually have a stand by low voltage on it, 3.3v, 5v, with little current behind it. When that gets pulled to ground, the power supply turns on; that's usually how those work. Those cable ties are probably nylon and that N channel FET will sooner blow up than melt that cable tie lol

[@Menjari]

If it were me, I would remove the PSU and simply add a port for a standard barrel connector and use an external PSU. Saves time and if the PSU dies again, I just grab a new one and plug it in. But great video!

[@rickardandersson5840]

Nice work. For your information, you can connect these monitors in chain via DP in and out, you can have up to three monitors, even with different resolution! :-)

[@316Minecraft]

Awesome fix there, you make it look easy! I’m still struggling trying to get this new tangled lead-free solder to stick 🤣

[@codebeat4192]

If you don't want to mess with 110/220V you can also hook up another capable power supply such as a laptop PSU (19V 4A or something like that). It was labeled nicely. The PS pin must be high or low to turn on the PSU. That is what I usually do. Safe and easy to replace in future. Most of the time it is the power supply that fail because it is designed to a cost or designed to fail by components used that are close and stressed to their limits. More pins with the same voltage are used to spread the amps over such thin cables. Cut the cable at the end and solder a connector to it. Anyway, do you know the difference between an P- channel mosfet, a N-channel mosfet, PNP and a NPN transistor? Worth to dive into because you can actually clearly trace what it is must be by looking at the PCB instead of guessing what you probably need. Just a tip ;-) Well done mate.

[@j.lietka9406]

I like the way the PCB is labeled!

[@OldMan_PJ]

Now see if you can get a speaker bar for it off ebay, I believe it uses Dell model AE515M, it's what the two holes were for on the bottom beneath the covers.

[@bobl6516]

Trying to fix the same model monitor myself, tested the psu & got 19Volts out of it, so assumed it was ok, did not try putting power direct into the main board though, perhaps I will take it apart again & do that. symptoms are no activity of any sort when plugged in. Bob

[@gregsmith9183]

Ths is one of Dells premium monitors. Owned one in the past before I got it replaced under warranty with a newer model, due to USB ports not working. Nice monitor although I wansn't a fan of the touch panel controls. Also have to hold the monitor to stop it moving when pressing the buttons.

[@luxorcephrenSE23]

Only just started watching this video, I have two of these exact model, linked by daisy chaining DP cables. The monitors are a bit finicky. I have to unplug cable every now and then and the buttons on the front can be aggy. But when it works they are great monitors.

[@SURGE101]

Nice fix vince, really enjoyed this one 👍👍👍

[@arthurmann578]

Well done! I really enjoyed this one! Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to you and yours as well! Looking forward to your new videos in the coming new year! 👍👍

[@dash8brj]

The trick with the psu is a good way to check to see if the logic board is working, saves fussing around with a blown power supply if the logic board is stuffed. Makes chasing the PSU fault worthwhile, as if you can fix the PSU, you know you'll end up with a working monitor as a result. I blew a pile of those IRF510N's up building a flyback circuit. That part number brings back memories. They are tough little mosfets though, but don't like a kW going through them ;)

[@markwhitfield5412]

if the chopper transister is short, it would take the mains in fuse, sometimes the bridge reg, if all that is good, sometimes a low value cap near the chopper transistor can fail, also a resister thats with it, or near it.