Seiko 6139B Assembly Part 2 - Calendar works, Dial & Hands

This is the final video in the Seiko 6139B Chronograph assembly tutorial. In this video I will rebuild the calendar works parts, dial and then fitting the hands which on these movements is particularly tricky. I show how I do this step by step. Please bare in mind I am only a hobbyist and not a professional watchmaker. Please like, subscribe and leave comments below as I read every one and answer as many as I can. Thanks for watching.
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[@MyRetroWatches]

Have my videos have helped you? why not support the channel in some way You can make a one off/ monthy donation here in only one click: www.buymeacoffee.com/MyRetroWatches If you would like to purchase any tools & equipment then please see my Amazon affiliate & eBay (I do earn a small commission from any sales.) Thank you. Link: Link: myretrowatches.co.uk/tool-sale-links/ If you would like to buy any of my T-Shirts then please look here: teespring.com/stores/my-retro-watches

[@watchmedraw4340]

I watched these several times now and I at least learn one new thing with every video.

[@kenlipper874]

Mate, I know this series is several years old, but it's been absolutely invaluable to my efforts. Keep up the great work!

[@mikescarsbrook6306]

Thanks Mike. An extremely helpful step-by-step video. You gave me the confidence to restore my own 6139B.

[@MyRetroWatches]

Thank you. I need to cover one of these again for e honest as I now have better cameras .

[@lonestardude6283]

Blood pressure rises just watching this! Cheers to you Mike!

[@dennisc.1189]

Well, Mike, you have taken in a watch that would have been thrown in the trash and or the ben and forget about it, not Mike you keep on working at until it is done. Great video, keep them coming.

[@namenotavailable11]

Hi Michael - sorry to send you such a basket case of a watch but fantastic to see it running again! Frustrating but a great series when not everything goes well. Sort of like life in general. lol

[@MyRetroWatches]

dont worry Jeff. All done now. Please get in touch

[@WristwatchRevival]

I will admit that the dial feet idea had me with my eyebrow raised, but you saved the dial in a really clever way, very cool. Always enjoy your stuff, keep it up Mike.

[@MyRetroWatches]

Thanks . Bit of out the box thinking. If I had a dial feet solder station then the correct solution would have been used. As it stands it was this or dial dots ...

[@mgp00a]

A job well done, talk about perseverance you are spot on, enjoyed I too felt your disappointment each time things didn't work. Thanks again for posting.

[@ernestocamero6403]

Very good! I have a Feb 72’ 6139-6005 and a Mar 77’ 6139-7100 that I will be attempting to fully service with barrel jewel upgrades from VTA. The only watchmakers I trust are not currently taking new jobs. You and Mark Lovick, VTA, The Seikologist, and of course Spencer Klein give me the courage to take on such projects. Thank you sir.

[@MyRetroWatches]

thank you. Good luck with your projects. just take your time

[@adrianbirkett594]

Well done sir!, you had a lot of problems but you got past them. Great video, thanks. Adrian

[@spidiq8]

Incredible patience on this one, a wonder you haven't torn your hair out. It's good to see it back together and running nicely.

[@MyRetroWatches]

You now know why I was asking about the quickset the other day. What did you think about my dial feet bodge ?

[@spidiq8]

@@MyRetroWatches I thought that was a neat little idea. If something does the job and isn't going to damage any part in the process then I wouldn't think of it as a bodge. The only thing that popped into my mind was the extra height that would result and possibility of hand fitting issues which you discovered and made a satisfactory resolution to along the way. All in all a successful fix.

[@jimbojet8728]

I have enjoyed this vid. Thank you and very well done

[@watchtock8818]

Excellent! I think you did an awesome job on the 6139 movement. I agree with gluing on the dial feet rather that using dial dots. I now feel empowered to servicing my own 6139's soon. Thank you.

[@dodgydruid]

I did enjoy that vid, I learn so much with all the foibles of particular movements. I have bought a Pulsar V600 project, only part missing is the chrono subdial hand and nabbed a second incomplete V600 for spares and it does look very much like this Seiko in layout. I have so many three sub dial chronos I wanted something a bit unusual and this single sub-dialled almost retro Pulsar just was right.

[@Supercruze]

Mike - Job well done. You certainly had your hands full with this restoration. The placement of the dial feel on the back of the dial is the reason for the misalignment of the minute recording pinion and cannon pinion through the center of the dial. If you have ever dealt with a bent dial foot or the like this will become evident to you. Applaud your out of the box thinking and repair of the dial feel. I have had to send my dials off to a specialist with equipment designed to solder on new dial feet. Very specialized equipment and work. Regarding using the VTA holder, back the pinion support down using the tool until flush with the bottom of the holder. Set the movement with dial and spacer into the holder and then pick up the movement holder and peer through the ports on the side and then use the tool to screw the supports up through the bottom until they just touch the chrono plate center pinion jewel and the min counter pivot. You are now ready to install the hands and the chrono start and stop buttons should work. Be careful with these 6139-600X cal watches as the plastic dial spacers are prone to cracking and breaking. Ideally when installing the min sub register and center sweep you need to be pressing and holding the reset button while setting the hands. This will ensure they reset to zero. John

[@MyRetroWatches]

Hi John and thanks for your comment. I kind of always knew the minute recording wheel pinion was out of centre due to the dial, also didnt help that I used the spare 6319 mainplate to setup the dial. had I used the watches actual movement I would have spotted it. Hindsight is a wonderful thing but at least I know for the future now. Hopefully the feet hold with the glue and it can go on being of use to the owner. I am now starting another 6139 for my own collection and fortunately the movement is very clean so I should have little problem going forward. Adrians holder can be tricky for me at times, in part as I have only used it in anger 4 times so still getting a feel for it. I felt I was fumbling around in the dark a bit on the video. Filming adds pressure sometimes.

[@Supercruze]

My Retro Watches - Mike. All good. I too fumbled a bit with Adrian’s VTA movement holder at first until I learned how to use it. The small Allen key wrench he provides to adjust the two pinion support posts is critical as you need to back those posts down in the holder and then place the movement in the holder securely and then move the support posts up until they just touch the support points on the bottom of the movement. Each movement you put in the holder will be slightly different including changes for 6138 movements. Adrian continues to refine his holders. One thing I did is add some spare pusher springs to the holder push buttons which make them easier to manipulate. It is critical you have the reset button depresses and held depressed when setting the min recording hand and sweep second hand in order to set them to zero on the dial. John

[@jimcrowther8994]

Hi Michael, I have just watched your video on dis and reassemble of Seiko 6139,just a couple of hints,after assembling the train do the look for the teeth of minute recording wheel and the intermediate wheel inspection hole and the chrono finger look at the tech guide.also do not fit the auto bridge on until you fit the dial and seconds hand you can break the chrono wheel. I worked for Seiko for forty years

[@MyRetroWatches]

Thanks for the tip. I have now done around 10-12 6139 and find them a lot easier than I did in the video. Thanks

[@brianrusso8018]

I agree with you on the dial feet. If the glue works use it. Its a heck of a lot better than dial dots. if it was a rolex or some high horology piece. Then i think i would maybe look at soldering, but even then you run the risk of heat damage to the dial face. I think glue is a good option. 👍

[@jenilocke8255]

I thought I'd watched the previous parts but it's not familiar, I'll go back later and watch. I noticed you changed the day wheel from the missing twenty one to a better one which was a relief lol. As the other dial face wasn't great you could maybe try a cotton bud and rodico on it (nothing to lose really) to see if it comes up any better as having the correct posts might help the other issues?? I have no idea if it would help as I have not physically ever repaired a watch but saw Vince clean a face with a dry cotton bud then clean the stray fibres with rodico and it made a difference. Love watching your videos as they are so informative. Looking forward to the next video, thanks for making them.

[@vitalikkyrganskie5803]

as it is familiar, it seems to have done everything correctly but there is always a catch

[@Inkreptile]

Curious to see what the issue was with the quick set function

[@SpaceManJup]

I have a tough but interesting question about watch customization

[@MRgrimlock84]

I was hoping to feel better about servicing my Pogue but now I'm even more nervous about pulling it apart...

[@tonyscott7989]

Mike a tip I found on SCWF for setting the second hand. Is to have it slightly to the left of 12 before pressing on. For some reason the hand always seems to move a bit to the right when pushed on. I tried it and it worked for me. Another issue whats needs mentioning is its very hard to fit an old second hand onto a different chrono pivot. A new hand seems to go on with the effort ,as does the original hand on its original chrono pivot. I think reaming etc needs to be involved with old hands and different pivots. Others will no more and maybe I'm not that accurate in the above. but its something to be minefull of . Cheers Tony

[@MyRetroWatches]

Thanks for the offset tip. the chrono second hand is keyed so using one from another watch will never line up unless you broach the hole on the hand. Basically the chrono pinion has a square end, you push a round tube onto it on the hand and the square sides of the pinion "key" the tube to get a tight fit, otherwise flyback power would send the hand to undesired places. The keying gives it grip. I used a donor hand on my 6139-6010 but just used a Bergeon black oiler that was an old one, put the hand on the oiler and pushed it down. As the oiler is tapered it eventually finds its size, a few turns of the oiler smooths out the old key and when fitted it worked as it should .

[@stebaz7]

Hi Mike, I have a 6139 from March 72, blue faced dial, yellow chapter ring, not seen many with this configuration. I got this in 77 from my father, it keeps perfect time and all seems to work fine, pushers a little stiff but resetting to 12 o’clock etc,except the chapter does not rotate.Not got original strap, is it worth having serviced and what in your opinion would be a good price to pay for a service. Regards Steve

[@blenny47]

This may sound obvious but were you trying the quick set function with the watch mechanism at midnight ie daily change over time ,wind it on to about 3am then try it again works for me thanks for video

[@MyRetroWatches]

It’s a good point and at the time of testing no hands were on to know what time it was really , think I wound it on from them changing at twelve though. Either way it still does not work even with the watch now cased. Thanks for commenting and watching . Appreciate it

[@onlyvintagewatches]

Great video as always, only one small point: when installing the canon pinion, at 2:29 you can see a very thin line that goes from tthe pivot upwards. This is a very thin filament, I suppose, that got caught by the pivot. Putting the canon pinion on top of it most likely dragged it down, between the hour wheel and the canon pinion.

[@MyRetroWatches]

Thanks George, only you would spot this ! Clearly I’ve not seen that and it’s a stripdown to get to it again ... damn . Sometimes filming on the scope is a curse 😂😂

[@onlyvintagewatches]

@@MyRetroWatches I am deeply sorry.... but it is experience we are making.... you have no idea how many times I had to take apartt and rebuild some watches.... some aare just dust magnets!

[@MyRetroWatches]

OnlyVintageWatches.com - George Clarkson I understand, same here. I just don’t like the hand setting on these .. it’s a kind of phobia that I will break the chrono wheel.

[@onlyvintagewatches]

@@MyRetroWatches With the holder you are using, which is the same I use and sell (VTA) you should not be able to damage the movement, if set correctly...

[@dangerbeered]

Hi Mike, Is this movement identical to the stormtrooper movement. I want to use your video to service my 6139-7100.

[@MyRetroWatches]

Yes there is an A & B version of the 6139 but the difference is so slight it’s not noticeable. If you look on the resources page of my website you will find the service manual in colour.

[@Kenmiro]

Hi Mike, this has been a wonderful journey for me. I love this kind of honest video, great work. One question, and im not a movement diver, just yet, but I have been into watches for many years. Why do you have to press and hold both the start/stop- and the reset pusher when setting the chrono-hand? I would have thought the reset would be enough, given the chrono function is not activated? I know you probably have had well enough of this piece but would appreciate a short comment/answer. Cheers and wish you where my neighbour

[@MyRetroWatches]

Ken Ros good question , I do it because this is what I have learnt from others. You know with stop pressed it won’t move as the spring will hold it in tension. Flyback because that’s the correct position.

[@Kenmiro]

@@MyRetroWatches I was just thinking that the goal is to hit 0 or 12 with the chrono-hand and it looks to be a bit difficult pressing and holding both pushers, unless there is a specific reason. Im planning to try and disassemble and assemble one of my 6139´s following your's and Marks videos.

[@jaaaake777]

Hi, I tried to reattach the 30 minute register hand on my pogue as it was massively overshooting on flyback. I tightened it up a bit, but it flies back to 29 minutes. However, now that is the least of my worries, as the crown no longer stays in. I had it in and out a few times trying to case the watch. Could I have worn out or broken whatever holds the crown in?

[@MyRetroWatches]

You have most likely disturbed something in the keyless works. Sometimes you can be lucky and wiggle the stem around a bit or press in the stem release as that can get stuck sometimes. otherwise its a stripdown to investigate.

[@philagee]

Hey, Mike. Great videos; subbed and excited to start tinkering. Question: when are gloves/finglets required? I noticed in the 7s36 series, you don't use gloves, but here you do. What is the difference?

[@MyRetroWatches]

Phil Gee they are called finger cots. I usually only wear for assembly so I don’t leave fingerprints behind which over years can corrode the natal I’ve touched

[@philagee]

@@MyRetroWatches understood. Thank you!

[@ScottMcCormick12358]

Can you give a link to the dial feet? Thanks.

[@MyRetroWatches]

www.cousinsuk.com/product/watch-dial-feet-non-swiss

[@hamshackleton]

Why do you need to hold in the flyback button when fitting the chrono finger? As the movement has stopped, it should stay stopped until the top button is pressed again to start it!

[@MyRetroWatches]

It’s the rules in the service manual. Also eliminates any slack. That hand being off by .5mm is enough to drive anyone mental.

[@hamshackleton]

@@MyRetroWatches - OCD? 🙂 Tried to click on your link to the Seiko service manuals - it came back with a 404.

[@MyRetroWatches]

@@hamshackleton damn I will fix that. I changed servers on my site. Goto this link and then click resources then Seiko myretrowatches.co.uk/

[@hamshackleton]

@@MyRetroWatches - got it, thanks.

[@JayB-lz6yd]

13:35 the video stops for few seconds but sound keeps going. just to inform you.

[@MyRetroWatches]

Thanks , I knew, my recording software has a glitch every now any then . Seems uninstalling and reinstalling does not fix the issue. Can’t do anything about it as I don’t notice when recording. Terribly frustrating.. thanks though.

[@JayB-lz6yd]

​@@MyRetroWatches no problem. it's not really annoying anyway.

[@rustywrench2119]

Wow love your videos but with my hearing aids I had to stop watching this one because of that music playing over it. Could hear yo at all over that tone.

[@MyRetroWatches]

Apologies. These were a few years ago and I was experimenting with background music. I dropped it shortly afterwards . No videos have had music for a long time now.

[@dodgydruid]

Dial dots imho are a menace and a waste of time, on the batch of so called "quality" ones I got last time the backing paper was fused to a great many of them making them frustrating and useless as the flat circle of epoxy was about as adhesive as a Boris Johnson promise :(

[@MyRetroWatches]

Dots are only good in certain circumstances. Not sure if my bodge job is any better or not. None of you have said anything yet !

[@onlyvintagewatches]

@@MyRetroWatches I have the same glue, used it only on glasses, though. Have to give it a try. Better than the 1-second glue (Cyanoacrylate adhesive) which does fume and evaporates corroding the dial and staining metal parts

[@sheemondallasgeorgia]

MHO:. Either this watch is beyond reasonable rebuild or beyond your abilities. There are simply too many unresolved failures. I also noticed many parts being assembled rusty, rough, or worn out. While arguably these are imperfections that do not affect performance, they do clearly set the tone for a watch built to standards well below those of Seiko. If so, what is the point of the video? A watch that does just work? That I can get from eBay. I want to see, watch, learn what it takes to create a watch that is built to standards beyond the factory's. This I did not see this time :-(

[@MyRetroWatches]

I have to work with what is in front of me. This watch was not mine and for a customer with a very limited budget. Watch is definitely not past my abilities and I dont know why you would say that. I have since done probably 12 6139's and know then like the back of my hand. Had this been my own watch most of the movement would have gone for parts.

[@jimbojet8728]

Nay! Just get a soldering machine!