Nanlite FS-150, FS-200, & FS-300 Review | The NEW Best Budget Lights? (Vs. Godox, Amaran, & Forza)

[@NewLayer]

I'm excited for 2021 because our lighting options only get better and better every day! What do you think about the FS series Vs. the alternatives?

[@ianthebrightman]

that fan noise on the 200 & 300... damn

[@qahtanrashid3280]

I do own the Forza 300. What a beast !! With Forza budget you can get more than 3 of the f150's 😅

[@NewLayer]

@@qahtanrashid3280 Haha, crazy right?!

[@NewLayer]

@@ianthebrightman Haha. It's definitely... less than ideal. If you're not shooting anything needing sound (talking head, interviews, etc.) then the 300 is great, but I would call it a deal breaker if that's something you plan to do with your lights. Obviously that's something a lot of people do, LOL. The FS-150 is luckily has a different fan inside. Between the FS-150, the Amaran 100d/200d, and the SL150W II, it comes down to a few "what ifs" for each individual on which lights are the best fit, with the first two working best for the majority of people.

[@qahtanrashid3280]

@@NewLayer it is, budget wise 😅

[@HEREONOUTBAILEY]

Honestly, thank God for you. Your videos always answer any questions I’ve got unanswered in my head. Your communication is so good, I really appreciate all of the time you’ve given me with my light journey.

[@NewLayer]

Thanks a lot! I'm really glad to hear you find my videos so useful. If you ever have any specific questions I miss, let me know!

[@NanliteUSA]

As always, we love the quality of your videos! Thanks New Layer

[@NewLayer]

Glad you liked it! Keep making great lights, and let me know when you want to hire a light pre-production consultant ;)

[@Hanswaffel]

@@NewLayer do the lights flicker when shooting in for example 240 fps?

[@NewLayer]

@@Hanswaffel Nope. I can't think of a light currently produced that does anymore. Very, very early versions of the original SL series from Godox had reports of flickering, but since then it's been smooth sailing, at least up to 240fps.

[@GainesvilleKen]

Thank you for pointing out the slight grid pattern in the shadows when used without a diffuser!

[@NewLayer]

Sure thing. I know it's a big deal to some people, but I personally have never used a light in a way that it would be noticeable, although I know some people obviously do.

[@GainesvilleKen]

@@NewLayer I'm incorporating continuous, and I'd generally use it with just the reflector, or with barndoors, or bounced off a V-flat for fill. Paying more, a lot more, for the Apurtures doesn't sound great either. Shadows are an important component for me. Still on the fence. Again, thank you for presenting a balanced review!

[@NewLayer]

@@GainesvilleKen Definitely a consideration for you then! Thanks for commenting.

[@veronicabrown9837]

We love their square form factor and how they are stackable in the shelf when not in use. And the U-shaped mounting bracket seems so much more solid and so much more "Pro" than the Single Point Mounts on other lights like Amaran or Godox

[@NewLayer]

I agree. They are small things that make an actual difference in every day use, and when something is easy/fun to use, it just makes your job more enjoyable as a whole!

[@somewhatboxes]

i badly needed this review - i was about to pull the trigger on an SL-150ii after hearing about the FS-150 but finding vanishingly little info on it (especially compared to the SL-150 and other godox lights). thanks so much!

[@NewLayer]

Glad I could help! Hope you enjoy whatever light you choose, it's hard to go wrong with either of those options.

[@zaymax_7]

You released this video 2 days before the fs150 came in stock again in my country!! Thank you so much I've been waiting for someone to do something like this and you went beyond that. Cheers!

[@NewLayer]

Nice, I’m glad it helped! 👍

[@zaymax_7]

@@NewLayer Oh i have a question. How far in size is the fs150, amaran, and the sl150ii?

[@NewLayer]

@@zaymax_7 FS-150 and SL150W II are basically identical in size, just different shapes. The Amaran lights are a little smaller because the AC adapter is separate from the head unit, but if you count the AC brick they’re very similar.

[@zaymax_7]

​@@NewLayer it's so hard to pick! The godox is actually 10$ cheaper here, so I'm picking between the two. What would you get? They both don't have storage options, so i'm thinking of putting them on a small gym bag and add padding for protection. The godox is 1.6 extra lbs, and i'm not sure if the cylindrical shape helps in portability. Godox i think comes with the remote but the nanlite eventually will get an app

[@NewLayer]

​@@zaymax_7 If having the absolute quietest fan is a high priority, get the Godox, otherwise, I'd get the Nanlite.

[@JaviSanchezRUNS]

Canceling my Amaran preorder (been waiting for 2 months) and picking one these now! Great video!

[@NewLayer]

Thanks! The waiting is rough. Let me know how you like it when it arrives, and thanks for the support :)

[@testpattern701]

I'm usually pretty critical of KZbin videos but you did an excellent job on this one. Your lighting, exposure and audio are all first-rate, a rarity in KZbin videos. The content is top-notch and very analytical. I wish you had done SSI measurements @ 3200K for those of us who prefer to work at 3200K. Would you consider adding them to your stats page? Thank you. I'm going to get an FS 150 based in large part on this video and the price is certainly right.

[@NewLayer]

Thanks, I'm glad you liked it, and thanks for the support. The bi-color versions of these lights didn't exist when I did my review, otherwise I would have. If I get my hands on them someday, I'll add them to my light comparison tool. But, based on the color accuracy of other Nanlite lights, I would expect it to be just as good as any of those. Hope that helps!

[@phucmapvlog]

Great breakdown! I'm looking to get the FS 300 at the moment. Congrats on the 100k BTW!

[@NewLayer]

The 150 and 300 are my favorites for sure! And I have a ways to go until 100K, but thanks in advance :)

[@jordanruzic9477]

Thanks for the great review of this. I am very much considering picking up the FS-150 and I just do not see many people talking about them.

[@NewLayer]

It’s probably my top recommendation for high quality beginner/budget light right now!

[@jordanruzic9477]

@@NewLayer I got the light a couple weeks ago and used it for a product ad. Totally blown away by this light. The build quality, and light quality for the price is fantastic, and I did not find the fan noise on mine to be loud at all. I will be buying another one of these ASAP. Thanks so much for the great review!

[@NewLayer]

@@jordanruzic9477 Awesome! So glad to hear it. I wonder if the fans were updated, or if I'm just used to much quieter fans now. Either way, if the fan noise doesn't bother you, I don't think there's a better 300 watt deal to be had!

[@xjaireyes]

if I were to shoot small product videos (canned soda, candles, etc) at 120fps, can the FS150 cut it for me? (probably with a f2.8 lens on the Sony FX30)

[@NewLayer]

You can definitely make it work, especially with small products, because you can get the light very close to them. I've used 150 watt lights with a 36" softbox at ISO 200, 1/50 sec, and f/2.8 with the light set to only about 15-20% and at 4-5' away. At 120fps, your shutter speed should be 1/250, so you should be able to turn the light up to 100% and still keep it 4-5' away. If you brought it in to 2-3' away, you could crank the aperture down to f/5.6 or so for more depth of field. A 300 watt light is 1 full stop brighter, so not a huge difference, but would be helpful if you want to shoot closer to f/11 in 120fps. Hope that helps!

[@xjaireyes]

@@NewLayer hey thank you so much. i might rent out the 150 soon and test it out and see if it's for me.

[@NewLayer]

@@xjaireyes Nice that you have the availability near you to do that! Great idea.

[@GabrielPadron]

Thanks a lot man, not many good reviews on nanlite lights. So yours not only a great review but also nice to have a comparison on other brands. 🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼

[@NewLayer]

Thank you! I get rid of a lot of lights but kept the 150 and 300 because they’re so great!

[@microbroadcast]

Many thanks for doing this test, as it was the exact comparison I wanted. Well done!

[@NewLayer]

You're welcome! Glad to hear it helped you so much :)

[@astromoosie]

I just wanted to say thank you for taking the time to make these comparisons. I'm looking to purchasing my first continuous light for making youtube videos of myself talking and originally had my mind set on the Godox SL60. After spending some more time and also considering using a continuous light for still photography, I figured it would be best to get something with more output just in case. I was very set on the Godox VL200 but now I have all these other options. For someone who is looking for something quiet, good color accuracy, reliability/durability, and good mounting options... Which out of these would you choose? This light will also probably never see any outdoor usage. Godox VL200, Amaran 200D or FS-150(since you said the 200 wasn't worth the price due to marginal brightness increase and louder fan noise) I think all of these models have an acceptable range of color accuracy, so this probably isn't top priority. I guess it comes down to price and durability. I have read some bad reviews about recent batches of the Godox VL series not turning on. And for the Amaran series, I read that some have fan noise issues but this seems to be resolved with their later batches and a firmware update... I'm so indecisive right now despite having this really good comparison video.

[@NewLayer]

If you're working indoors and never need battery power, I would probably get the FS-150. It's insanely simple and very bright at 150 wats. That and the price is very good for what you get. Hope that helps :)

[@astromoosie]

@@NewLayer Thank you!

[@Francisfphoto_]

Would the FS 300/300B would fit in the Nanlite Forza 150 carrying case (removing everything from the inside)?

[@NewLayer]

Unfortunately I've only ever had the Forza 60 and Forza 200, so I couldn't say for sure!

[@Francisfphoto_]

@@NewLayer it’s the same bag for Forza 60, 150 and FM projector!

[@NewLayer]

@@Francisfphoto_ Oh really? Good to know. I can't imagine the larger lights fitting in such a small case, at least not with any accessories. Let me know if you get a definitive answer :)

[@Francisfphoto_]

@@NewLayer yeah! Hahaha it’s the same case, I was asking if it could fit removing all of the dividers obviously

[@Metal_Vistas]

I just bought an FS-300 through your Adorama affiliate link. I had been weighing it for a few days and your review helped me pull the trigger (over the Godox). Thanks. Edit: I'm using it for in-studio product photography, primarily with soft-boxes, so the fan noise isn't going to be an issue.

[@NewLayer]

Sounds like you’re the perfect person for that light! The hanks for the support.

[@karma_moths]

Hello - wanted to ask as I also need a light for product photography - a light powerful enough to take photos of clothing items eg shirts - do you think the FS 150 would be powerful enough or would you go for the 300w - would really appreciate your reply when you get chance - many thanks

[@Metal_Vistas]

@@karma_moths if your budget can handle it, I am of the opinion more light is always better. Particularly if you plan on using large modifiers, I would definitely go for the brighter light.

[@karma_moths]

Hey thanks man - appreciate it@@Metal_Vistas

[@brycebobula4762]

Would love to see a test of the fan noise in like a standard interview setup where you would have shotgun mics or lavs

[@NewLayer]

I wanted to do this but unfortunately didn't have time. It's a stretch to get 1 video out per week right now :-/

[@brycebobula4762]

@@NewLayer Totally understand! still a great video!

[@wasislos]

Did you try to put on a fresnel lens or a spotlight from Nanlite/Aputure? Are they compatible with these models?

[@NewLayer]

I only have the Nanlite fresnel and although it does technically work, the COB is not the same distance so it won’t be as efficient and effective as the lights its designed for like the Forza 200, etc.

[@MentaClassics]

Thanks for the review. Couldn’t find much on YT about these lights, but your video helped me decide. Went for the 150 as my first video light. Might add the 300 later if the extra power is needed. For the future; I would’ve loved to see the output of the lights in studio, outside, while interviewing etc. As a beginner it’s hard for me to imagine the amount of watts I need for my work. Appreciate your video mate!

[@NewLayer]

You're welcome, thanks for the support! And I agree, it would be great to see them in a few setups, unfortunately it takes a lot longer to do that, so I mostly keep my reviews and lighting setups separate. But... that's part of why I created my light comparison tool. You can see how bright any light is from 1 meter bare bulb: newlayer.com/gear/lights/compare If you know the ballparks of how modifiers affect lights (a stock reflector adds 2 stops of brightness, a double diffused 36" softbox cuts 2 stops, etc) then you can see what's bright enough for what situation. For example, outside on a sunny day is around f/16, ISO 100, and 1/100 second. The FS-150 give f/7.1, ISO 100, and 1/50 second (or f/5, ISO 100, 1/100). So you know that the FS-150 bare bulb from 1 meter is 3 1/3 stops dimmer than the sun. Even from 1 meter with a stock reflector, it won't be as bright as the sun, although at that brightness it could be used as a rim light or fill light. You can meter specific scenarios in your life, then calculate which lights in what modifiers will be bright enough. It's a small learning curve, but much more useful that comparing individual lights in any given video. Hope that helps.

[@MentaClassics]

@@NewLayer Yeah that definitely helps. Didn’t know about your tool. I’m going to check it out. Thanks again for the video and you explanation. Keep up the good work!

[@NewLayer]

@@MentaClassics Thanks! Hopefully it helps. And thanks for the support!

[@richardisaac1941]

Thanks very useful tutorial. I'm considering a 200 watt Nanlite, however ut off by the fan noise. Do you know if the Nanlite forza has less fan noise?

[@NewLayer]

The Forza lights are slightly quieter yes, although, I would not be worried about how loud the fans in the FS lights are unless you’re doing very, very sound specific work.

[@richardisaac1941]

​@@NewLayer Will be using to record video of a beautician carrying out a skincare tutorial. So the light will be at full power in a big softbox close to the subject & mic, the subject will be speaking at times but with periods of silence. Hence want to avoid any fan noise whatsoever. Will be using a Blue Yeti mic, with a foam sound sleeve and pop shield. What do you think?

[@NewLayer]

@@richardisaac1941 In a setup like that, it will be plenty bright, and the softbox should be a good buffer between the fan on the light and the microphone. If you really just want to avoid fan noise altogether, you could look at the Godox UL series, which has no fans whatsoever: geni.us/godoxul150

[@AbhaySharda]

The SL150W mark 1 had a very audible fan, are the fans of the FS300 and FS200 also audibile in recording as background noise?

[@NewLayer]

I would say the fans are the FS-200 and 300 are equivalent to the latest production SL150W Mark I. The oldest SL150W Mark I was very loud, the newer ones are less loud. The FS-150 uses a different fan and is much quieter. Hope that helps.

[@AbhaySharda]

@@NewLayer oh great, that means it is purchasable for practical use!

[@Watcheyes]

Good tips! Will look into to upgrade from Forza 60 to the one you recommend FS-150. Will work good for my videos.

[@NewLayer]

Thanks! Hope you like it as much as I do :)

[@Watcheyes]

@@NewLayer Thank you =)

[@knowledgeistreasure]

Great video. Nanlite FS-150 or the Godox SL150W II, if including stand, soft box etc price is similar, which one should I buy, which is the better light? Thanks.

[@NewLayer]

Same exact price? I might get the Godox simply because it has “fan off” mode at 35% brightness. But they really put out identical brightness and color accuracy so whichever is cheaper!

[@redumbrella4218]

Great job thank you. Please do some set ups and tells us the fstops!

[@NewLayer]

To be honest, 99% of equivalent power lights all give the same brightness. So the Nanlite FS-150, Godox SL/VL/FV/etc 150, and so on, are all the same brightness. There's also a relationship between 60, 150, 200, and 300 watt lights. 150 is 1 stop brighter than 60, and 300 is 1 stop brighter than 150. You can compare tons of lights using my tool here: newlayer.com/compare-lights With that said, I have a decent amount of lighting setup tutorials, so with the knowledge above, you should be able to figure out which light you might need pretty easily.

[@redumbrella4218]

@@NewLayer thank you so much! Extremely helpful!

[@corerage]

Have you tried mounting an Aputure spotlight mount or fresnel on the Nanlite FS line? Does it work? I can see the COB is sticking out much further than Godox and Aputure lights which might prevent using Aputure modifiers.

[@NewLayer]

Unfortunately I don’t have the Aputure spotlight to test, sorry.

[@catmate8358]

Thank you for this review. Do this lights have DMX connectors? And do you have any first hand experience with SWIT lights? I can't find any reviews on those...

[@NewLayer]

Nope, the FS series does not support DMX. And I've never used any SWIT lights, although I've tried reaching out in the past to get some to review with no reply. Maybe in the future.

[@catmate8358]

@@NewLayer Thank you for your reply. It looks like I will have to go with SWIT for the DMX capability although I don't have enough info on these lights and I don't like that :/

[@rumorscameras]

hi. just wondering whats ur opinion on multiplying lights vs full power. like 2 x 150 vs one 300 or 2x60 vs one 150 etc.

[@NewLayer]

If you have 2 150 watt lights, you'll get the same, or VERY close to the same brightness as 1 300 watt light. Obviously there are pros and cons to both, like being able to separate them, etc. Hope that helps.

[@rumorscameras]

@@NewLayer yeah makes sense

[@beyondpoypoy]

Thanks! Was looking for these new lights but no one made review on it , top notch content!

[@NewLayer]

Thanks! I’m glad it was useful.

[@ElectricDreams10]

Hi. At what brightness are you testing colour accuracy on each unit? It is possible, inevitable even that the readings will alter at different brightness %'s. Readings at 10%, 25%, 50%, 75% and 100% would be more than interesting as they could in practice vary significantly over the range.

[@NewLayer]

Always at 100%. You are totally right about color varying at different brightness. It also changes when you start using diffusion etc. so although I’d love to test many different settings and compare, it’s just impossible because it takes so long, and 100% is the industry standard for testing color accuracy.

[@4401099]

As you mentioned in 3:13, I want to be sure I'm hearing this correctly. So you said that from your measurement this FS-150 has the same brightness as Godox SL-150w markII ? even though FS-150 claim to have 180w output rather than Godox SL-150w markII which has 150w output. At first I was thinking about getting Godox SL-150w markII, but then this FS-150 come out. So now I'm hesitating. ha ha ha. Thanks

[@NewLayer]

You can compare them here: newlayer.com/gear/lights/compare?light1=Nanlite+FS-150&light2=Godox+SL150W+II The FS-150 is ~1,200 lux brighter than the SL150W II, but at their brightness, that is less than 1/3 stop, so they are functionally the same brightness. The main benefit to the SL II series is the "fan off" mode, but the FS-150 is on par with similar lights sound-wise, and is the least expensive, high quality 150 watt light I know of. Some of the wattage of that 180 is the fan, screen, and other electronics. Some lights list the wattage of the COB itself, and some list the overall wattage of the entire light, so it's a bit confusing sometimes. Hope that helps :)

[@Oscariver]

Great video! I would like to buy the fs 150 or 200, essentially for interviews, the sound produced by the fan noise could become a problem for my work?

[@NewLayer]

The FS-150 is quiet, the others are loud. I would only buy the 150 for talking head or interviews 👍

[@Oscariver]

Thank you so much! would you prefer the nanlite fs150 or the godox sl 150ii for interviews?

[@NewLayer]

@@Oscariver The Godox is slightly quieter but both should work fine, so I’d lean towards saving $100 and get the FS-150

[@NewLayer]

@@Oscariver The only thing better about the SL II series is the "fan off" mode, but that also limits you to 35% brightness. You'd really have to care about complete silence to spend $100 more just for that in my opinion. So, overall,. I recommend the Nanlite FS-150. Hope that helps! If you get one, I'd greatly appreciate if you used my links :)

[@Oscariver]

the nanlite f150 has the necessary power to use it with the Glow EZ Lock Deep Parabolic (38 ") or better buy the 28" for interviews. When I buy it I will use your link, thank you very much for the help

[@kendrasananikone]

do you think two fs-150s would create a lot of noise? i am thinking about using them to light a standard talking head kind of shot in a small studio space.

[@NewLayer]

They are right on par with other lights with average or below average fan noise, so they would be well suited for that in my opinion.

[@kendrasananikone]

@@NewLayer okay awesome! thank you for the great review you totally sold me on this line of lights! :D

[@NewLayer]

@@kendrasananikone Not trying to sell, just provide an unbiased review, but I'm definitely not surprised you chose them because they're great!

[@greyspaniard]

Do you think the FS-300 would pare well with a stable of Godox SL/VL or would there be a serious color cast issue? Granted a custom WB would be required anyway

[@NewLayer]

Compare the FS-150 and FS-300 with the SL150W II, SL200W II, VL150, and VL200 here: newlayer.com/gear/lights/compare?light1=Nanlite+FS-300&light2=Godox+SL150W+II They are all within 0.4G to 1.0G, so very close in tint. Each light varies, even the same model from the same manufacturer, but overall they're essentially identical in tint and CCT, so as good as you'll get as far as matching :)

[@greyspaniard]

@@NewLayer thanks JT you’re the real MVP

[@benergizer6368]

Great video! I’ve been waiting for a review for these lights for months! So far when I did a search for these lights I would only se reviews in Thai. I remember these lights being announced back in November and they have been available out here in Japan for a few months now. Glad to finally see and english review of these.

[@NewLayer]

Thanks! I've been waiting to get mine for a while too and was really excited about them. They lived up to most of my expectations, with the exception of the fan noise on the 200 and 300. The 300 is still incredible for the price.

[@JustDavidMinistries]

I use two of the Godox SL60s as my main lights. I’m planning on upgrading but I’d need something brighter and quieter since I also do interviews. What would you recommend as budget friendly? Thank you 😊

[@NewLayer]

The FS-150 is what the SL60W wishes it was. Brighter, better build, and slightly quieter. I would highly recommend for your situation 👍

[@JustDavidMinistries]

@@NewLayer I guess as well as adding the FS-300 for when more brightness is needed. Thank you so much. I greatly appreciate!

[@BarefootMediaTV]

nice i was debating between the forza 60 and amaran 100x... these look brighter and cheaper

[@NewLayer]

Yep, brighter and cheaper than both. And if you ever want to use them with batteries, I have a video coming next week that will have you covered :)

[@NanliteGlobal]

Thanks for sharing💙🙌

[@NewLayer]

Thanks for watching!

[@elazarwitchel3008]

This video is awesome! Been waiting for it for a while. Thanks JT!

[@NewLayer]

Glad you like it! I was really excited to finally get these, especially the 150 and 300.

[@alfonsocornejo844]

As always... short, accurate and very well explained (sorry about my english). I have in my gear the Godox SL200ii and SL60w, and a couple Luxceo P7RGB. I'm looking for something more powerfull like the 300 (VL300 or FS300), i don't mind the fan noise (i use lavalier in interviews) the battery mount, carrybag and effects, i just need the power itself. My question is, do you haver another alternative to consider -i think the FS300 is great- in the market? Saludos desde Chile, Beast !!

[@NewLayer]

I would go with the FS-300 since those things don't bother you. It's the brightest and least expensive, and the color accuracy is as good as any other options in the 300 watt range.

[@andymarsal]

Have Nanlite upgraded the fans to be variable speed?

[@NewLayer]

Not that’s I’ve heard. There’s no fan controller or circuitry to allow for variable speed, and I don’t think they’d change the manufacturing process for that, but if you learn otherwise let me know!

[@andymarsal]

@@NewLayer thank you.

[@matheussp13]

Another great video! Can't believe how affordable this great lights are getting. You think it could work well using with Aputure Spotlight?

[@NewLayer]

Thanks! I don't have the Aputure Spotlight to test, but it should work, just maybe not perfectly since the light might not stick out the same distance it does with the Aputure COB lights.

[@ephemere82]

didi you measure the size of the fans? are those 12cm fans? thank you!

[@NewLayer]

I didn't measure sorry, Nanlite would probably be the best to ask for that info since I don't think it's publicly listed anywhere.

[@iolite2]

Very informative video! Do you think the FS-150 is good for overhead flat lay still image photography? I'd like the lighting to be overhead too, so I was thinking of getting two of these to position on each side of the camera with softboxes. I'm just not familiar enough with watts and lux to know if this setup will provide bright enough lighting or be overkill.

[@NewLayer]

This is the ideal light for flat lays in my opinion. Plenty bright but not overkill. I did a video on one light setups with the Forza 200 here you might like, including a flat lay kzbin.info/www/bejne/jJCmaaOVdqmgipI The FS-150 is slightly dimmer but should work great. And if you get 2 then you have 0 worries 👍

[@iolite2]

@@NewLayer Ok, great! Thanks I watched the video you linked which is really helpful! I've seen people primarily light flay lay photos from the side or corner as you did. I've been leaning towards placing my lights overhead, but I'm concerned the subjects might not have great depth that way. Unlike most examples of still image photography that I see involving one or a few items, I'm photographing a few dozen small objects at once, mostly organic items like flowers, twigs, and stones. Therefore I figured that I don't want lots of shadow because I'm not looking to accentuate this. I want just enough to give depth. I've thought of using black foam core overhead to create the depth I'd like. Any thoughts?

[@NewLayer]

@@iolite2 Sounds like you have a vision and just need to execute. I agree with what you're saying. With many small objects, you may not want as long shadows, in which case more overhead lighting might look better. Or using a big reflector for fill. Only one way to find out :)

[@iolite2]

@@NewLayer Yes, thanks so much for your input! Will use your affiliate link. I appreciate it.

[@NewLayer]

@@iolite2 Thanks for the support!

[@bentonpix]

In your comparison chart, when you say "Bare Light" does that mean without reflector?

[@NewLayer]

Yes. No reflector at all (since every company makes one with different beam angle/other characteristics). For LED panels, bare light means with all removable diffusion removed as well.

[@Ranger7Studios]

Do you think the build quality is any better or worse than than Aputure 100 and 200?

[@NewLayer]

I think it’s clearly, but not hugely, better than the Amaran 100/200. Hope that helps.

[@TwaynePereira]

Thank you for the review! The fans look like PC case fans based on some of the visuals. I wonder if you could open up the housing and just get some quiet noctuas or quieter case fans if they're using PWM headers. . .

[@NewLayer]

Pretty much all lights use standard fans, and could very likely simply be replaced with better ones. There are some lights out there with special controllers that work only with their stock fan, or so it seems, but I think the majority could be swapped out. Many lights require removal of a lot of screws and parts to get to the fans, so no one really does it. And most importantly, we shouldn't have to if all brands paid a couple bucks more per unit for a better fan in the first place, haha. If I get the inclination, I'd love to open one of these up and swap the fan with a super quiet Noctua or something.

[@catmate8358]

@@NewLayer Yes. It's crazy they make the effort to build decent lights with advanced LED technology and then ruin them with cheap fans :/

[@NewLayer]

@@catmate8358 I can understand it a little bit since MAYBE they purposefully gear the bigger ones towards scenes where the lights are farther away, but I would ALWAYS rather pay $10-20 more per light for a very quiet fan.

[@askomiko]

Have they updated the firmware for lower fan noise nowadays?

[@NewLayer]

I'm not sure, I find the FS-150 to be plenty quiet so haven't felt the need to even check 😅

[@NeilEvery]

Do these have Bowens mount or is it the proprietary Nanlite mount again?

[@NewLayer]

Bowens mount. Only the Forza 60/60B is their proprietary mount.

[@matthiastarra4393]

The Godox vl series seem to be better in all ways right?

[@NewLayer]

Better in a lot of ways, but also different application and much more expensive. The FS-150 is only $219 Vs. the Godox VL150 at $399. The VL150 has a carrying case and v-mount support, so it's better suited for mobile work. If you just need a studio light you don't need that, and it can even get annoying because you need way more cords + external control box to use it. The FS-150 is just the light head + 1 standard cord, so for a single location, it's fantastic. Now that the Nanlink mobile app is out, it makes it even better. The FS-150 is negligibly brighter and more color accurate, and you can compare all the measurements I got here: newlayer.com/gear/lights/compare?light1=Nanlite+FS-150&light2=Godox+VL150 There are other subtle differences, but those are the most important.

[@joenicklo]

Didn't think the Godox lights would be that quiet! nice.

[@NewLayer]

The SL150W II is very quiet, while the SL200W II is barely any louder. The VL lights are the same as the SL II series, and the ML60 is by far the quietest fan out of any fan-cooled COB I know. It's funny how much Godox is known for loud fans from the original SL60W/SL150W, because they are among the quietest now.

[@felipehenaovideo]

VERY DETAILED REVIEW RIGHT TO THE POINT, Thank you

[@NewLayer]

You're welcome! Thanks for the comment.

[@Immortal_papu]

After watching this video really helps me a lot Man thank you but please suggest me a low budget light for my new Filmaking use ,I am a media student , so i really need ur help thanks a lot

[@NewLayer]

There's a lot of good low budget lights, including these. If you're on a super low budget, I'd get a 60 watt light, like one of these: kzbin.info/www/bejne/sGeronisfq99jKc kzbin.info/www/bejne/fJ_beKGKjaaIfsk kzbin.info/www/bejne/aIHFk4tmfd18itE kzbin.info/www/bejne/pYTQlXZ9orqlh5o kzbin.info/www/bejne/fGaQioGEhqZsjdE kzbin.info/www/bejne/f2HGnIOue8mXr5I kzbin.info/www/bejne/o2LGiYKvpbyimcU Lots to choose from, haha. None of them will hold you back from creating, so you can choose whichever one you like the features of most.

[@Immortal_papu]

@@NewLayer Thanks NewLayer ur a money saver

[@rezaVfx]

Thanks! I'm still not sure Chose whether Forza 60 or fs-150! I mean fs-150 is more. Powerful but Forza is great as well

[@NewLayer]

Yep, it really just depends if you need battery capability. Forza is battery, comes with a case, but is not native Bowens mount. FS-150 is cheaper, brighter, but no case.

[@rezaVfx]

@@NewLayer right but is not fs-150 softer? I need hard shadows sometimes

[@NewLayer]

@@rezaVfx Only a teeny tiny bit, not enough to notice 99% of the time I'd say if you're just using stock reflectors. I'd be more concerned about the grid/checkered shadows on the FS-150, but even that only shows up in specific circumstances.

[@ivanyamson]

Hello, I'd love to see a short video about various Bowens reflectors/hyper reflectors in the market and if one is superior to another? Even just the known ones from Godox, Aputure and Nanlite would be very useful. Thank you!

[@NewLayer]

I have that on my to-do list! Unfortunately there's a good amount of stuff ahead of it at the moment, but maybe someday I'll get to it :)

[@ivanyamson]

@@NewLayer I feel that the numbers don't seem consistent so I'm not sure how manufacturers measure these numbers. Nanlite says that with it's reflector, the FS-300 output is 36730 but it's definitely waaay more than that. Bare bulb it claims around 25k which made sense. Do you at least notice a pattern with reflectors? Is it generally at least 4 or 10x brighter with one?

[@NewLayer]

@@ivanyamson Do you have a link where it claims 25,000 lux bare bulb? It's only half that, but Nanlite is usually somewhat conservative with their advertised numbers so I'd imagine it's a typo or something. Every brand makes slightly different reflectors, so some might be 50 degrees while others are 40 degrees, which can make a big difference in brightness. Also, some have a much brighter hot spot right in the middle, while another brand might be more even across the entire light circle. If you measure the hot spot only, it'll seem brighter, because it is, but only in that spot. This is why I only put bare bulb measurements in my light tool, because however you modify it after that has infinite possibilities. One reflector isn't going to be more efficient than another, it just shapes the light differently, so all that matters is the bare bulb measurement in my opinion. As a rule of thumb, I typically find that stock reflectors add 2-3 full stops more brightness over bare bulb, so hopefully that helps in a more general sense.

[@ivanyamson]

@@NewLayer Nvm it's lumens not lux haha Aputure claims big numbers once their reflector is added on, but you're right about brighter hotspots with certain lights.

[@NewLayer]

@@ivanyamson Lumens, lux, foot candles... so many ways to say the same thing and confuse people, haha. Aputure is great because in their live streams, Ted Sim specifically talks about hot spots, how they measure their lights, and they are very honest and up front about it all.

[@sabaw3]

Heya, I was looking at getting a light and I was looking at the sl150ii or sl200ii. I just found out about these models today and checking locally I saw they have about the same price as the godox here where I am. Thr sl150ii here is about 215usd and the sl200ii is about 292usd, with the na lites being about 8 dollars more expensive for both models. I was thinking of the sl200ii but was on the fence if it was worth the extra over the 150,bit now these make the choice even harder. Which would you recommend?

[@NewLayer]

The FS series is typically cheaper, so if you're finding the Godox lights for less, I might get those solely for the "fan off" mode if that's important to you. Other than that, you really can't go wrong with either. I like how the FS series is cube shaped because it's annoying when you set the Godox lights down and they roll around haha.

[@sabaw3]

@@NewLayer thanks so much for the reply! I'm in Asia so I guess godox here is cheaper? I dunno. I like the nanlite for the possibility of the app and having an ecosystem since the cheaper line goes up to 300w (no 300w sl, 😔) but the godox ones are a bit cheaper and more silent hnmm Also used your comparison site (very cool!) and it seems For 150w, nanlite > godox But for 200w godox > nanlite Quite the pickle I'm leaning towards the sl200ii but I still have a few days before our local online stores go on a sale. Thanks for the input!

[@NewLayer]

@@sabaw3 If you're getting the 200 watt, I would get Godox. The FS-150 and FS-300 are great, but the 200 (at least mine) had some issues I mentioned in my video. The brightness difference you see is negligible so I wouldn't factor that into your decision.

[@sabaw3]

@@NewLayer sweet. One last thing, do you think the sl200 is worth it over the sl150? It's about 80 usd more but Im thinking thr extra 50 watts might be useful down the line. Again, thanks for all your help and input!

[@NewLayer]

@@sabaw3 It's totally up to you! The 200 is only 1/3 stop brighter than the 150, so instead of shooting something like ISO 400, 1/50 second, f/4, you could shoot at f/3.5 instead. It's a lot smaller difference than most people think.

[@ChristophProtz]

Very good review and comparison. Thank you! My use case would be to add a Gobo in a photo studio (noise does not matter). There I have with the current Elinchrom/Walimex flashlights the problem that the modeling light is halogen (=get's hot) the gobo get's heated rather fast to temperatures where you do not want to touch it. Does anybody know how much the LED light will heat accessories like a gobo?

[@NewLayer]

LEDs still get hot/warm, but nowhere near Halogen. What kind of GOBOs are you talking about? There are projector mounts LED lights that have metal GOBOs so heat isn't an issue. For "native" LED options, there's the Spotlight Mini Zoom (geni.us/aputurespotlightmini), there's the Nanlite PJ-FZ60 (geni.us/nanliteprojectormount), and the Godox SA-P (geni.us/godoxsap) + SA-17 (geni.us/godoxsa17) Bowens adapter.

[@ChristophProtz]

@@NewLayer Thank you for your feedback. Mine is similar to what you show. I bough a noname gobo/snoot 2 years ago from Aliexpress (looks like this one www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002159339403.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.638e15060dh8xL&ad_pvid=202108241013177912203881696220030129453_4&s=p) but I did not use it too often. Agree main parts are metal. But with the halogen light the whole body heats up and you have to be careful not to touch it, exchanging gobos in a frame is not a problem, but try to mask the light beam (mask metals are built in in mine) and not touch. But I'll give the LED lamp you showed a try.

[@305kubrick]

Would you feel comfortable using the Forza 300 for interviews in small spaces given it's fan noise?

[@NewLayer]

I would stay away from the FS-300 for interviews if the light is within 2 meters of the subject. The FS-150 in a small space should be sufficient for that setup anyways at around 50% power or less, even with a softbox.

[@agiOverlord]

Great review!

[@NewLayer]

Thanks!

[@MarkoXJunior]

Fs200 or Godox LA200d? Tnx bro

[@NewLayer]

Unfortunately I haven't been able to test the Godox Litemons lights. When I tested the FS-150, 200, and 300, the 200 was louder and not as color accurate as the 150 and 300, so I'm not sure if that's changed. If it has NOT changed, then the LA200D would be better. If the FS-200 is as good as the 150 and 300 now, then I'd get that. Keep in mind a 200 watt light is only 1/3 stop brighter than a 150 watt light, so I'd save the money and get the 150, or spend more and get the 300. Hope that helps :)

[@MarkoXJunior]

@@NewLayer i will see different La200d and fs300, i watch this video and i see your test for magenta ( G ) and look for the price of fs300. LA is cheaper only 50e ( in my country fs300 is 400e ) Tnx so much for answering 💪

[@DangLeProject92]

Does the fan can turn off or is it effect for interview work ? Im talk about fs300

[@NewLayer]

No, the fan is on 100% of the time. The only one quiet enough for interview work in my opinion is the FS-150.

[@DangLeProject92]

@@NewLayer thank you. Might save a bit more for forza 200 or 300 then :( Thanks

[@felipevece]

have you did a bright test between the forza fs 300 against the amaran 200d?

[@NewLayer]

Yep! newlayer.com/gear/lights/compare?light1=Nanlite+FS-300&light2=Aputure+Amaran+200d The FS-300 is 2/3 stops brighter than the 200d. Hope that helps :)

[@felipevece]

@@NewLayer Thanks Bro! one question in the comparation the amaran has an f/8 to 1m and the forza has an f/10 to 1m should both have the same f?

[@NewLayer]

@@felipevece The way that works is that it lists what f-stop you would need to set your camera to in order to get proper exposure. So at 1/50 second, ISO 100, the Amaran 200d needs the aperture at f/8 for proper exposure, and the FS-300 needs the aperture at f/10. That means the FS-300 is 2/3 stops brighter, because it requires you to stop down to achieve the same exposure as the Amaran 200d. I hope that makes sense. It's a standard way of listing brightness, so look into it if my explanation isn't good enough, that way you'll be able to compare lights more easily :)

[@felipevece]

@@NewLayer Thanks bro! it has sense.

[@Hexspa]

Hi. Two things: how do you feel about the r9 score being below 90 for these lights? Secondly, would you please consider doing a skin tone test for the lights you review? Maybe you could have that load up in your - very addictive - comparison tool. Thanks!

[@NewLayer]

For R9 specifically, as long as it's over 85 I don't worry at all. It's nice to see 90+, a single R value difference of 5 or so will really be unnoticeable. That's a good idea about a skin tone comparison. I feel like I'd need to have a reference light to compare them against, but I guess I could just show an example. The hard part is that with a softbox, the CCT, tint, and R values can all change drastically, so then it's not as accurate a representation of the light itself, but tainted a lot by the brand of modifier I'm using.

[@Hexspa]

@@NewLayer Thanks for the reply. I just bought a 120d after clicking your godox link so hopefully you get credit.

[@NewLayer]

@@Hexspa I should! You never know how sneaky these affiliate programs are though, haha. Thanks for the support! :)

[@gdrriley420]

I think its finally time to sell my 2 old arrilite 600 so I'm happy to see better and better 200$ lights to replace them

[@NewLayer]

For $199, there isn't a better overall COB to be had in my opinion.

[@bruzzofilms]

Can they be controlled by an application that has not yet come out and is expected to come out this year? did I understand well? I do not speak English very well

[@NewLayer]

Yes! Once the new app is released, you can use it to control these lights :)

[@knowyouryoga]

Hi which one would you pick between the godox vl 150 vs nanlite fs 150. Where I live the godox costs 360 USD and nanlite 255 USD

[@NewLayer]

If you don’t need the v-mount support, definitely the FS-150. If you need the v-mount support, then VL150, or look into the Nanlite Forza 200 as well as they are pretty comparable.

[@knowyouryoga]

@@NewLayer thanks I'm leaning towards 150 but I'll check out the forza 200

[@DJ-hu4ih]

How do you think the build quality compares to older godox lights like the SL60W? Do you think one of these would survive a drop?

[@NewLayer]

From a survivability standpoint, I think these are as good or slightly better than the original SL series, which to me is great, because those lights, even with their other issues, were well made in my opinion, especially for the price. If you dropped them on the housing from a few feet they'd be OK, but I think very few lights would survive tipping over on a light stand, and if they did, it would mostly be luck.

[@DJ-hu4ih]

@@NewLayer I appreciate the thorough response! That's a shock to me as I own the SL60 and thought the build on these would be worse but looks like I'm gonna buy a few 🤩 As soon as the app is released anyway haha Would you say the fan is similar in noise compared to the sl60? I know that's kinda notoriously loud, I'm looking to get some fs-300s. Im guessing it'll be a bit louder with the wattage but just curious to hear thoughts from someone who's used both. Cheers dude!

[@NewLayer]

@@DJ-hu4ih Overall I'd say they are equally matched as far as sturdiness goes, but the FS series materials feel better and more professional. The fan on the FS-150 is definitely quieter than the SL60W, the FS-200/300 are about the same, if not very slightly louder. I don't have an SL60W to compare directly to any more, so I'm going off memory :)

[@DJ-hu4ih]

@@NewLayer much appreciated!

[@DJ-hu4ih]

I would just like to add that after buying an FS-300 I will say that the Godox SL60W build quality is better in terms of most of the housing being metal based whereas the FS is mainly what seems to be a plastic composite with some bits of metal, mainly on the top and bottom vents. It seems sturdy but not as much as the SL60W. Very happy with the light but just thought to add for anyone who's trying to gauge the build quality before buying. Also the fan on the FS-300 is pretty loud, maybe the other models are quieter, it is over 300W so it makes sense and it's not a problem for me personally but just to throw it out there again.

[@426Studios]

Does the 3 lights use bowens mount? So Aputure softboxes like the Light Dome can also be used on these lights?

[@NewLayer]

Yes they are all standard Bowens mount! The Aputure softboxes will work on them.

[@tommywu9867]

Hi, I am a photographer and thinking of moving into video. I have a still photo project and required to create interior haze and smoke with the lighting effect through the window . The studio is my living room < 200 sf. Can you recommend me what LED lighting size would be appropriate on the outside? I am thinking of 300W but not sure. Love your channel, BTW. Thanks in advance. Tommy.

[@NewLayer]

For a small indoor studio, 150 watt lights are good. 300 watt lights are much more expensive and only give around 1 stop more brightness. Outdoors is tough because even 300 watts isn't enough in many cases Vs. the sun if you're using any kind of soft box. I would highly recommend 2 or more FS-150 for indoor use, and 2 or more FS-300 for outdoor. Or you could get 1 of each and make them do double duty. Hope that helps!

[@tommywu9867]

@@NewLayer Does two 150W lights give much more than one 300W light?

[@NewLayer]

No, two 150W lights will be the same brightness as a single 300W. Just gives you flexibility to move them around or do two light setups.

[@NewLayer]

@@tommywu9867 Two 150W lights will give you nearly identical combined output as a single 300W light.

[@m77ast]

Thanks mate. I don’t know what it s wrong with these retailers. How difficult is it to put up a bare bulb Lux value at 1m? Much appreciated.

[@zfsachsag]

You are literally the only person who’s done an extensive review on this so thank you! 2 questions if you do have time to answer: - in comparison to the 300d, is the power output similar? - the Led as you mentioned is in form of a grid, does this really change your light output dramatically? I really need a powerful backlight/fill light to simulate day time light in my 5m x 5m studio, I’m hoping this does the trick - or even two of them. Again, thanks for the great detailed video 🙏🏾

[@NewLayer]

You're welcome. The 300d and FS-300 will be nearly identical in brightness. Maybe 1/3 stop difference between the two. The grid doesn't make it brighter at all compared to a traditional COB, it was probably just done that way to save on manufacturing costs.

[@JasonToddRoberts]

My camera white balances from the FS 200 at 4400k super annoying because it doesn't match m other lights.

[@NewLayer]

If it's 4400K, it's definitely defective and should be replaced. They should all be between 5300-5700K on the very far ends, more like 5400-5600K.

[@nexttvc]

I love these lights.

[@NewLayer]

Same here! If nothing else the visual design of Nanlite COBs is beautiful.

[@nexttvc]

@@NewLayer Also I don't have personally issue of FAN noise bcoz I am noy using light that close ot mic is not always next to light. Plus I do have some lights with battery power but I never use with battery. So for me was more important to have more powerful lights and these are looks beautiful and strong and colors are accurate.

[@NewLayer]

@@nexttvc Sounds like a perfect match!

[@ca1688]

I just bought FS150. I'm trying to get a sense of the output of the FS300 as compared to FS150. I find the FS150 to be not so bright. Is FS300 as twice as bright? And in regards to the fan noise. Is it that terrible? FS150 is as silent as a dead mouse.

[@NewLayer]

You can compare them here: newlayer.com/gear/lights/compare?light1=Nanlite+FS-150&light2=Nanlite+FS-300 The 300 is just under 1 stop brighter than the 150, so technically twice as bright in lux, but still not a huge practical difference. Every unit is a little different, and if Nanlite is smart they put even quieter fans in since their release versions. The 300 was too loud for me for a talking head setup, but it's not annoyingly loud if you need it for b-roll or anything, and again, may be quieter now.

[@ca1688]

@@NewLayer Thanks, I"ll put a follow up reply if I do get the FS300.

[@AndyLSB]

would you say the FS-150 is better built than the Amaran 100d ?

[@NewLayer]

I think the FS series is better built yes. They have some metal pieces and I like the plastic they do have better. They feel a little more solid, and the mounting yoke is a true U-shaped yoke with dual locking knobs instead of the single point mounting yoke of the Amaran lights. Hope that helps :)

[@AndyLSB]

@@NewLayer thanks ! It helps alot actually, I will consider the FS-150

[@errysaids671]

I think im gonna go with godox sl150.Yeah, I mean other than the brightness of the light quite similar, plus the noise come out of the fan was not so loud and easy to reduce on post , also the heat was not so 🔥 unless you were shooting for more than 3 hours straight🤣.

[@NewLayer]

The SL150W II and FS-150 are extremely similar. I can totally wanting the quietest fan possible if it's a very high priority for you.

[@A1Bokeh]

What light would you recommend that is fairly easy to use on the go that can be battery powered ?

[@NewLayer]

There's a few good options in the 60 watt range: Nanlite Forza 60/60B: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qKa4lWiFgrWNqbs Godox ML60: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fXnMfqSQbtSch68 Aputure 60d/60x: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qYTUqYOlrZuIr7c I also have a video coming out a week from Monday on portable power stations and how they could be a better choice than lights with native battery capabilities. For 150-300 watt lights here are some good options: Godox VL150/200/300: kzbin.info/www/bejne/q2nRn4SbZ6qWasU Weeylite Ninja 400 (Bi-Color): kzbin.info/www/bejne/nJW0YWOMja5mitE Aputure 300d: geni.us/aputure300dmarkii Aputure 300x: geni.us/aputure300x Hope that helps, lots of good options now :)

[@A1Bokeh]

@@NewLayer dude that sounds like a great video looking forward to it!

[@A1Bokeh]

@@NewLayer the jinbei lights looks interesting as well. Super low key not many reviews but back ordered on bhphoto

[@NewLayer]

@@A1Bokeh Their 2 biggest downsides are overall build quality, and availability, LOL. Ever since my video came out, they've been out of stock for months at a time!

[@A1Bokeh]

@@NewLayer fuuuh I checked out your aputure video and those look pretty sweet and come with a lot of crap..may eventually get that as a portable

[@darkechoproductionsllc9559]

With the new plug-in by Waves called Clarity, no need to worry about anymore fan noise using these lights

[@NewLayer]

Noise reduction has definitely gotten infinitely better the last 5 years, but it's still always best to have as clean a sound source as possible, when possible!

[@darkechoproductionsllc9559]

@@NewLayer check out that plug in you won't be disappointed by Waves

[@nicolelomastro6250]

Can you show a comparison of brightness with the 150 vs the 300

[@NewLayer]

It's in this video. The 300 is 1 stop brighter than the 150. You can compare them more here: newlayer.com/gear/lights/compare?light1=Nanlite+FS-150&light2=Nanlite+FS-300 That means you need to adjust your camera 3 "clicks" (1/'3 stops) to get the same exposure between the lights. It seems like a 300 watt light would be way, way brighter, but in reality, 1 stop isn't all that much unless you're pushing your lights at 100% all the time.

[@nicolelomastro6250]

Do you think the 150 would work for someone like myself who takes makeup photos and videos ?

[@NewLayer]

@@nicolelomastro6250 Videos yes, photos, it depends. Continuous lights are much dimmer than strobes. So you won't be taking photos at ISO 100, f/11-16, 1/125 second like many product photos require. A 150 watt light with a softbox will max out around around something like ISO 100, f/5.6, 1/125 second (or around ISO 400, f/4, 1/50 second). Video demands are much lower when it comes to brightness, so you have to understand the limitations of continuous lights for photography. Even a 500 watt continuous light isn't enough for photos when you need ISO 100 and f/16+ Hope that helps.

[@seattlelewis2]

Can you tell us which one of these lights does not make multiple shadows when you use barndoors? I wanted to buy the 300 but it made visible lines when using barndoors. I would like to know if the 150 and 200 do the same?

[@NewLayer]

They all have the same grid-style setup of LEDs, so they would all look the same in that regard.

[@seattlelewis2]

@@NewLayer even with the tighter packed leds on the 150 and 200? They still have that multiple shadow effect?

[@NewLayer]

@@seattlelewis2 I’m not sure what you mean. The LEDs on all 3 lights are attached in the same density. There are just more and/or the individual LEDs are brighter on the 200/300 Vs the 150.

[@seattlelewis2]

@@NewLayer thank you so much for answering my questions. I watch and like all your videos. They are really top notch! If @nanliteusa made diffusion domes like paul buffs new link light uses they could eliminate the multiple shadows. Unless you have any suggestions I guess I'll sell my old paul buff lights and buy four PB links as they have a 800w led modeling light and a 800w flash.

[@seattlelewis2]

@@NewLayer I haven't seen the 150 or 200. another review said the 300 individual leds within the cob were spread out more. Sounds like you don't see that to be the reality. Thanks again for answering my questions.

[@harrij.9542]

Hi New Layer, what is your affiliation with Nanlite ?

[@NewLayer]

None, other than Nanlite user. Same with every other brand and product I review 👍

[@roadrunna.]

I am looking to buy one used, would you know a reseller other than ebay?

[@NewLayer]

Gearfocus.com is my favorite, but they don't have as big of a user base as eBay, so you never know when a specific item will become available.

[@AaronMarasigan]

the nanlite's yoke has to be adjusted from both sides tho, right?

[@NewLayer]

That is correct, although you could easily just leave one side loose and use only the other. Since it's a Rosette style locking mount, you should have no issues with that.

[@AaronMarasigan]

alright i had literally been contemplating between the Amaran 200D and FS 200 recently until i found this! thank you so much for making this P.S. your comparison site is exceptional!

[@AaronMarasigan]

bought the Nanlite FS-150 today! big thanks to this video. cheers!

[@NewLayer]

@@AaronMarasigan Nice! Thanks for the support. Hope you like it as much as me :)

[@thomasbrydon7257]

Do have a fan noise comparison forza 300 vs fs 300

[@NewLayer]

Sorry I don't have a Forza 300 :-/

[@sondp]

is there a bicolor for this?

[@NewLayer]

Not on these, at least yet. The only bi-color Nanlite COBs are the Forza 60B and the Forza 300B for now.

[@SlideWreckDan]

I wonder how bad the fan noise for the 300 is if people are saying 200D is borderline for dialogue. I mainly shoot dialogue so if it's too loud not really an option I suppose.

[@NewLayer]

The FS-200 and FS-300 are significantly louder than my Amaran 200d. My 200d is in between the SL150W II and SL200W II, and both of those lights are very quiet, so I've never had an issue with mine. So much so that I haven't updated the firmware that supposedly helps with fan noise. With that said, I don't think I'd recommend the FS-200/300 for dialogue unless you're using it from 2-3 meters away, then it's probably acceptable, but I would normally advise against it. The FS-150, however, is only louder than my SL150W II, so just fine.

[@alext8651]

Can u put a Fresnel lens on that strange FS-series multiLED

[@NewLayer]

Yes! It may not be perfectly optimal placement inside the lens like the Forza 200 or something, but it works just fine in my testing.

[@saptarshic]

@@NewLayer I am planning to get the FS-300. Would the fresnel for Forza 300 and 500 work with it? Not an immediate concern for me, but would be looking to get the fresnel at some point.

[@NewLayer]

@@saptarshic It will work, but may not be optimal since the lights don't stick out from the Bowens mount the same distance. I don't think the FS series is officially supported for that reason. Double check with Nanlite to confirm. Hope that helps :)

[@saptarshic]

@@NewLayer Thanks!

[@joshdiditt]

This is for bowens mount right?

[@NewLayer]

Correct.

[@ivanyamson]

Hello, would the FS 300 be a bit brighter than a 300dii then?

[@NewLayer]

I don't have a 300d II to test, but based on what I've seen the FS-300 will be slightly brighter. In practical usage, that probably means 1/3 of a stop or less, so it's really not a selling point for either light Vs. the other.

[@ivanyamson]

@@NewLayer I agree, the price would be the selling point as you can buy two for a VL300/Forza 300 and three for a 300dii. Thanks!

[@kevinforget549]

cant find the fs-300 anywhere for under $379

[@NewLayer]

A lot of things are a bit expensive right now. I'm ready for the everything shortage to be over.

[@themichaelgraeme]

Now the kicker... Forza 60 or the FS-150?? Je ne said pas!

[@NewLayer]

Forza 60 - Comes with bag, smaller, NP-F battery support (with the optional battery grip), non-Bowens mount, AC adapter separate from head FS-150 - No bag, Bowens mount, AC adapter built into head, brighter, cheaper Pick your poison :)

[@fernandogmar]

I am on the same train, they are different tools... I will start with forza 60, sizewise, I think I could use it in more situations since I can carry it easier... later when needed I can add bigger lights and more powerful lights. probably since forza 60 is less powerfull I would need to block lights more often during day time, but I guess not a big deal in interiors

[@NewLayer]

@@fernandogmar Not a bad plan at all. The Forza and FS series lights match well in CCT and tint, so you can always pick up brighter versions of either light to add to your Forza 60 if/when you need to :)

[@thomasbrydon7257]

Do you know how the forza 60 compare to fan noise of fs-300

[@NewLayer]

FS-300 is significantly louder. It’s on the louder end for COB fans in general, but not unusable loud.

[@thomasbrydon7257]

@@NewLayer thanks I think I’ll have to save to buy forza instead as it’s intending to use as main light of interview set up

[@NewLayer]

@@thomasbrydon7257 I think that's a good idea. Look into the Forza 200 or 300B as well. Quiet fans, much brighter, and the 300B is bi-color :)

[@xAlba263]

Really struggling between the 300 vs. Aperture Amaran 200X. I like that the Aperture is bi-color and thus makes light temp visible while shooting, but the Nanlite seems to be the better overall deal. I am an amateur so I'd love to hear your opinion on that :)

[@NewLayer]

If you're shooting indoor in a controlled environment, then I wouldn't worry about a bi-color light, and get a single color light since you'll get more brightness out of it. If you shoot where ambient light can spill in, then bi-color is definitely helpful to match other light sources. The FS-300 and 200 are pretty loud, so if you're doing talking head videos or interviews, I'd go with the FS-150 or Amaran lights. Hope that helps :)

[@xAlba263]

@@NewLayer Thanks so much for your view on this! At the moment I am keeping it indoors to improve my skills in a controlled environment so that sounds like it would fit better. I am planning to use it as my "powerhouse", so that's why I was thinking the FS-300 would be the best choice. Is the power output between the two neglible or is the FS-150 simply powerful enough for a lot of scenarios? Right now I only have 2x 30W LED Panels and a smaller Nanlite Litolite 5C, looking to use the FS-150/200/300 with lanterns, softboxes or against larger diffusing surfaces or even as a fake sun/moon shooting from outside the window into the room. Sorry for so many questions, really appreciate your help and the work you do with the channel!!

[@NewLayer]

@@xAlba263 As far as brightness goes, the FS-300 is 1 full stop brighter than the FS-150, which you can see here: newlayer.com/gear/lights/compare?light1=Nanlite+FS-150&light2=Nanlite+FS-300 If you're not familiar, 1 stop would be something like being able to close your aperture down from f/4 to f/5.6, or shooting at ISO 400 instead of ISO 800, so in many cases it's a small difference. A 150 watt light is typically plenty indoors for talking head/interview type setups, so 300 watts is overkill for that in my opinion. The FS-150 in 36-48" diffusion should be good, and with a reflector will work great shooting in through a window as artificial sun or moonlight.

[@xAlba263]

@@NewLayer Awesome, thanks so much for your insight! Will definitely go with the FS-150!

[@NewLayer]

@@xAlba263 Happy to help! Let me know how you like it when you get it. I'd greatly appreciate if you're able to use my links when/if you buy one.

[@maryamalali9664]

can i use umbrella on it ?

[@NewLayer]

Yes the umbrella mount is on the side of the light where the light stand yoke attaches.

[@nightdonutstudio]

Delta u v is also important measure for skin tone shift. I watch professional say this number should be lower than 0.001 either plus or minus. Minus your skin tone shift to magenta, plus your skin tone shift to green. I see fs200 has -0.0044. That is quite more than 0.001. And fs300 has -0.0022. Close but not the best. The fs150 has -0.0006. That is even better than 0.001. So I would only consider fs150 as it will render skin tone the best.

[@NewLayer]

Delta UV is more nuanced than that. If you only bought lights that fit that criteria, you'd only have a tiny percentage of all LED lights in existence to choose from. Lights like the Aputure 300x would be excluded, when it is very color accurate. Delta UV is heavily influenced by green/magenta shift, and most LEDs will start with a Magenta tint (and negative Delta UV) then turn more green over time, bringing the Delta UV closer to 0. Honestly I consider the Delta UV irrelevant for the most part, unless it's horrendous, but that would also be reflected in more easily understood metrics. Once you add ANY modifier, whether that's a stock reflector, a softbox, external muslin, etc. it will completely change the CCT and Tint (along with the Delta UV). Those things also change as you adjust the intensity of the light source. So you could have a light with a Delta UV of 0, but in real-world use with a modifier or bounce board, it's going to be quite far from 0.001, but that doesn't make it worthless whatsoever. Suffice to say, there's a lot that goes into color accuracy, but I think SSI and the R9, R13, and R15 values of the CRI, along with the CCT and Tint are the only things people need to worry about. The Tint/CC# of a brand new light should ideally lie somewhere between 0.4G and 1.0G (in my opinion). After a while it'll move closer to 0.0, and most modifiers add more green as well. Long story short, I would take the advice of someone who says "don't buy a light with a Delta UV over 0.001" with a grain of salt.

[@nightdonutstudio]

@@NewLayer Thank you for the detailed explanation.

[@qahtanrashid3280]

I was trying to watch the video once I saw the notification but it was saying it's private 😅

[@NewLayer]

Haha, yep. Resolve tried ruining my day with weird export artifacts so I had to re-upload. With 1.5Mbps upload speed it took a while, LOL.

[@qahtanrashid3280]

@@NewLayer It happens sometimes, but it's finally here 😀. Keep it up, I like your video style 👍

[@HighlyTheoretical]

Thank you, I've been waiting for someone to review these lights. So you can really make these super cheap lights remote operated with a 12.99 remote?

[@NewLayer]

You're welcome. And yes! The Nanlink remote is only $12.99 and works with these lights :)

[@HighlyTheoretical]

@@NewLayer that's really awesome. I was going to get another sokani x60 v2, but got the FS-150 instead. How can these work with an app without Bluetooth?

[@NewLayer]

@@HighlyTheoretical EDIT: I see some official Nanlite marketing materials that say they have 2.4Ghz AND Bluetooth. So there's the answer. The Nanlink remote uses 2.4Ghz WiFi, so I presume the mobile app will do that same. I do see some 3rd party sources saying they have bluetooth, but I can't find official confirmation on that, so I'll ask.

[@ralphgeronilla]

What desk stands are those?

[@NewLayer]

You mean that the lights are sitting on? I covered them 1st in this video since so many people ask :) kzbin.info/www/bejne/ioeTlayOgbGaiNk

[@Man-kd4ck]

work with fresnel?

[@NewLayer]

Yes! Now, whether the depth of the LEDs inside the lens is perfectly "optimized" for this specific Fresnel I don't know, but since it's Bowens mount it obviously fits, and the focusing function works just fine for me.

[@Man-kd4ck]

@@NewLayer The light with fresnel is solid, without "artifacts" of multiply led?

[@NewLayer]

@@Man-kd4ck Yep, the lens definitely helps blend together any of those issues, which are as miniscule as possible even bare bulb.

[@NewLayer]

@@RChildVision A Fresnel lens simply focuses all the light into a small spotlight, so the same amount of light is coming out, but hitting a smaller spot, which makes it brighter in that spot.

[@korntana0101]

I want to know if i use fs150 and amaran100x and 200d to a video production. The quality color of light is different so it will be a ploblem when i grading it on pose?

[@NewLayer]

You can compare them here: newlayer.com/gear/lights/compare They should be within 200-250K or so in color temperature and very close on tint, so should pair together well.