Natural draft waste oil burner!Off grid water heater build part two!

[@lorddeath1023]

I am looking for ideas for heating my hot tub and green house and shop. I can get lots of used oil . You are one smart man. Thanks for all your great work and ideas. I like your boiler too. Keep up the great work.

[@farmer-kitt]

That is awesome!! Water stores a ton of heat if you get a bunch of 55 gallon barrels linked together you could store enough heat during the day (so you can keep an eye on things) to heat a whole house all night.

[@karlsoffroad]

I heat my home and shop with waste oil in my homemade outdoor boiler. A few videos back, if you want to check it out. Thanks for watching! Have a great day!

[@ScrapMetalToCash]

That is a simple but good design, emergency heating system i must have if my wife agree😂

[@Superduty_59]

That is working very well!

[@karlsoffroad]

When I put it in service, I'll be using a blower burner. More reliable and much hotter. I just wanted to see if it could be done without it,just in case. The blower only pulls 20 watts, so it will still run on a small inverter.

[@nickd5943]

You did a really good job. You said you didn’t have secondary air, but you do. The intake that is on the side at the top of the burn chamber/box is secondary air. Also the 10 plus feet of stack or chimney was what I was trying to say before when I commented. What I built was for shop heat also, the burn chamber was a 10” Dutch oven. It has a 6” pipe about ten inches long that connects the burn box to the stove thingy on top then out the chimney. The chimney was about 18 feet long. The whole thing looked like a potbelly stove. The stove part was two semi trailer break drums welded together. All in all it was about 150 ish pounds and got hot AF. It heated a 28’ x 40’ shop with ez! I still have the stove, I don’t have that shop anymore and I can’t use it where I am now. How well you have that thing running is perfect. Good luck

[@karlsoffroad]

I point out the extra air intake just before I light it. I'm still fine-tuning, but not bad so far.

[@glumpy10]

If Drums are as thin metal there as they are here, you did a brilliant job on the welding straight off. Insulation will make a big difference to this and you will be surprised how long it holds the heat. Right now the surface are radiating heat to the cold atmosphere is about 10X the surface area putting heat into the water. once you fix this, I think the heat up time will be way faster. For your Circ pump and a blower if you wanted, you could run them off just a little 250W house panel with a buck regulator. You should get enough power from 2 panels on a Cloudy day but I think once you insulate this, you will find the water stays hot for 36 Hours or more. The way you have this now, once insulated, I don't think you will need a circ pump or a blower. You could also automate this slightly. Get a thermostat and a liguid solenoid. Light the burner and once the water comes up to temp it just shuts off the fuel. Are you going to use the water direct or put a heat exchanger in the drum and feed clean water through that? A small radiator off a car or bike would heat the water to whatever the drum temp was with good flow. Doing very well with it mate!

[@karlsoffroad]

Thanks, the drums are very thin! I have about 30 years of experience welding.I do custom exhaust for a living at my own shop and worked at a welding shop when I was a kid. I've been building my own stuff as long as I can remember. I will be running a small inverter that goes from 12-volt DC to our 120-volt AC here in the States. I have two pumps,the inverter and the heat exchanger/radiator already, so I will just use what I have on hand. I didn't plan on running a blower, but I could, if it won't keep up with the demand. I think it will, but I will know for sure in a few days or so. Thanks for watching and for offering helpful advice! I watched all of your videos and still re-watch them. I've done some PV direct, but only with DC devices. I might add a few DC water heater elements for backup and run them directly to my panels. We'll see how it does without it for now. The barrel of water was still warm at 5am. this morning,everything was iced over with the freezing rain, so I was surprised. It's currently snowing and about 25 degrees Fahrenheit ,so below zero in Celsius. I will be using this to heat a 30-foot RV,so it should work fairly well,I hope.

[@carsondavis3020]

Shoot pair 3 of those together with a pump and you’d have a good hydronic heater for a shop.

[@karlsoffroad]

I took it a step further and built a 500-gallon outdoor boiler that runs on waste oil or wood! I just posted a tour of that setup. Check it out, and thanks for watching!

[@carsondavis3020]

@@karlsoffroad think I saw that one too! Once I’m able to use my wood boiler I might convert too! I’ve probably got 2-3k gallons of uses oil laying around.

[@Moonlightshadow-lq4fr]

If the shtf no need to worry about a bit of smoke is there. You have done great with the natural draught but as you say it could do with a few more holes. Not big holes though, start off with about 1/8" holes approx 6"above the oil level in the burner. I would start off with about 6 holes, just that will make a massive difference. 45 imperial gallons that you are warming up is a huge amount of water so you did excellent to get it as hot as you did. With the added extra holes you will be able to boil the water for sure. I am experimenting at the moment weather permitting to make a water heater but mine will be using a blower so it does the job quicker and a circulating pump through a heatsink and pump it into the tank. So fill tank up then heat through heatsink and circulate the water. I should be able to get 10 gallons in around 20 minutes hopefully. You will have to wait a while for me to show this due to the weather and the pump I need with the proper fittings. Should be sorted in a month hopefully. I was trying to just heat the tank as you are but found water condensing on the bottom of the burner was dripping into the burn chamber and thus cooled it down too much and got very smokey. My solution, which works very will was to put a 90 degree elbow on top of the burner and blast sideways, the heatsink supported with blocks so the heat was directed underneath the tank as required but without any water dropping into the chamber. Directly through the heatsink gets the water nice and warm, hand hot but no hotter with a small flow rate. If I fill the tank up and then heat the water through the heatsink it will be at least 4 times quicker I am sure, maybe more, need to show and test when I get all the bits. Sounds a bit complicated but is dead straight forward really. Great job to you sir though and look forward to your upgrade with great anticipation.

[@karlsoffroad]

Thank you for the kind words! I appreciate the suggestions, and I will definitely keep trying to get this burner smokeless. I look forward to seeing what you have come up with. Have a great day!

[@JohnDoe-id9hi]

A cheap hot water circulation pump, old 4 core radiator and some cobbled parts and you could heat the whole shop.

[@karlsoffroad]

I'll be using it to heat a 30-foot RV for the winter. I have the pump and heat exchanger already in my parts collection. The propane furnace is getting expensive. That's what started this adventure. I'm also planning on building a decent sized cabin at the back of my property, so I might have to make another one! I heat my shop and house with waste oil already in my homemade outdoor boiler. Works great, and I don't have to split and stack wood. Cheaper and less work.

[@JohnDoe-id9hi]

@karlsoffroad8609 Sounds like you got it figured out! I thought about building a similar system before I moved a few years ago. Great video and heater!

[@BlainesGarage]

Success. As you pointed out, insulation on that drum is going to get it up to temp much quicker. I really don’t think a circular pump is necessary. A typical home water heater doesn’t use one. Thermal convection should be enough. If your burner became built up with ash and crud by the end of your burn, that may explain more smoke near the end of the burn than in the beginning. Preheating the oil before it enters the fire will help it burn hotter and cleaner. A simple wrap or 2 of the oil line around the burn tube before it enters will allow the oil to absorb some heat. It doesn’t need to be touching the burn tube, just close.

[@brandonmason5822]

If ur able to put a generator motor on your windmill you can also capture energy and keep your battery pack charged

[@karlsoffroad]

I have two of them charging the batteries that run my outdoor boiler. Along with 3k watts of solar panels. I will be upgrading both turbines pretty soon!

[@divine--1]

Body why you not showing oil burner, I need to make one, please let me see it to build...thanks.

[@karlsoffroad]

This burner was built in the video titled "Anyone can make this!" it's on my channel.

[@greggoryleblanc1024]

How do u think a solo stove would work as a burner?

[@karlsoffroad]

@greggoryleblanc1024 I think it would work. I don't have any experience with one of them,but as long as you can get the oil hot, it should work. You may have to get some charcoal going and then add the oil?

[@hazlox]

Why not just convert a gas water heater that is all there already ready to go?

[@karlsoffroad]

I couldn't find one at the time, but I have one now, and I will be doing that soon! Great minds think alike! Thanks for watching!