Natural Solubilisers PART1

Join Belinda Carli, Director of the Institute of Personal Care Science and Cosmetic Formulator, as she investigates different natural cosmetic materials to solubilise various essential oil types. Using synthetic solubilisers is easy - but when you switch to natural solubilisers their performance is different and results may not be what you hoped for - but Belinda compares various materials, explains the advantages and pitfalls and finally, lets you know which are her favourites to use! Make natural and organic cosmetic ingredient selection easy with Belinda's help!
Learn how to formulate cosmetic products with Belinda and the team at the Institute of Personal Care Science! For course information, email [e-mail] or visit www.personalcarescience.com.au
Happy formulating!

[@theinstituteofpersonalcare6401]

Please email us for full formulation, method and supplier details for all our formulas FREE: [e-mail] happy formulating!

[@ugochinnamdi9275]

Hmmn. So amazed at your tutorials. Love love ur videoes. Thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge. Please do a video on shower gels or liquid soaps.

[@theinstituteofpersonalcare6401]

Please watch this one, and our other videos topics too! kzbin.info/www/bejne/o6HCaqmegcudors You can also email us for FREE formulation, method and supplier information on all our videos: [e-mail]

[@sachinmulay8571]

@@theinstituteofpersonalcare6401 pl send me all formulations of all cosmetic T.y Best regards Sachin

[@jzs5285]

Do you know how/where to find the lipid profiles of essential oils? Looking for Vetiver, Lavender, Bergamot and Frankincense. I have sympio Solv clear +- Also do i have to test the oils together or separately or how to calculate the total ratio , E.O : solub.

[@theinstituteofpersonalcare6401]

Please google the supplier name to find your regional contact or join your local Society of Cosmetic Chemists to build your network. You might also find suppliers through our Cosmetic Raw Materials for Small Brands facebook group: facebook.com/groups/1734896293290235/ or try this page for small suppliers in various countries: personalcarescience.com.au/AboutUs/PracticalpackPaypal-799/

[@joy5016]

I have a question. Can you use aolubisers to add water soluble actives to an oil while still keeping it an oil? Have always wondered about this and have never attempted this with success.

[@theinstituteofpersonalcare6401]

No, you can't because the solubiliser will 'trap' small amounts of oil inside of it while being soluble in the external water phase. To do this with an oil, you'd need to use a very different material to 'trap' a small amount of water inside the oil continuous phase. It won't work with these solubilisers, please contact us if you'd like to learn more on how to solve this [e-mail] Hope this helps.

[@michaelhilson3699]

Hi, Belinda. Would you happen to know the difference between polysorbate 20 vs polysorbate 80? I’ve seen one product on the market that, for whatever reason, the manufacturer is using both of these agents to solubilize the active (an essential oil). Thank you.

[@theinstituteofpersonalcare6401]

Hi Michael, Thanks for watching! Make sure you subscribe to our channel so you never miss the latest videos! To answer your question, while these are both good solubilisers, there is a small chemical difference between them. More importantly for selection, the HLB value, and therefore solubilising power, of polysorbate 20 is higher than polysorbate 80. I personally prefer polysorbate 20 and use it as the industry standard - it is one of the best solubilisers we have to use. I would suggest that if 1 product has both, the polysorbate 80 may be present as part of another blended material - you wouldn’t normally use both for the same purpose in the 1 formula. Happy Formulating!

[@danhayes5225]

they are the same except for viscosity. The 20 or 80 denotes the average of how many or how much weight units in the polymer chain.

[@debn693]

Would love to have seen how these performed with e.o such as sandalwood, patchouli or myrrh

[@theinstituteofpersonalcare6401]

Hi Deb, use the best performing solubilisers for the most 'predictable' results and potentially best results - your actual results will vary on the essential oils you use - this is why I used a few different types! So it will vary, but that is part of the R&D process. Happy formulating!

[@quintonwilson8565]

How do their comedogenicities compare to polysorbate 20? Aren't long chains of saturated hydrocarbons comedogenic at high percentages?

[@theinstituteofpersonalcare6401]

Please watch our video on Comedogens: kzbin.info/www/bejne/j4HamXmwrb97eZo and please contact us for the full report that goes with this video to conduct your investigations: [e-mail] :)

[@gl4883]

What’s the beyond use date?

[@theinstituteofpersonalcare6401]

When formulated properly, the solubilisers will be infinitely stable - but of course you need to check what else is in the formula. Please watch this video for an overview on stability: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gmOyZ6qohLqfd6s or you can learn how to conduct your stability testing online with us: personalcarescience.com.au/CosmeticScience/CertificateinCosmeticQualityandStability-1983/

[@indusingh0886]

Ma'am Only oramix CG 110 gave clear solution with peppermint EO. For making toner , clear gel products these solubilizers are not looking good. Any other Natural solubilizers for making clear products such as toner and gels with varied EOs. After freeze thaw cycles these solubilizer are giving cloudy solutions. Which doesn't look suitable for clear gel or clear liquid products. Thank you

[@theinstituteofpersonalcare6401]

This is one of the downsides to natural solubilisers, unfortunately, there needs to be some trade off a company will accept if using natural materials, and this is an example of one such occasion/issue.

[@frankmaurice88]

Please review poly suga Mulse d9

[@theinstituteofpersonalcare6401]

I can review that when I provide an update on this video thanks for the suggestion.

[@queenbeet]

When formulating, is the percent solubilizer of the whole formula or just a percent of the essential oils to be added? probably an obvious question. Thank you!

[@theinstituteofpersonalcare6401]

Please note the proper and correct way to write a formula is by % w/w. Please watch this video which will help you understand why and how to read the formulas. It will make your formulating life so much easier! kzbin.info/www/bejne/gWGaaISCqpKMea8

[@Lesslypl]

Are there any solubilisers in powder/granules?

[@theinstituteofpersonalcare6401]

You can get surfactants as powder/granules. Please email us for full formulation, method and supplier details: [e-mail] we provide this free. Happy formulating!

[@SeedKreations]

hello. greetings. i need a solubilizer to make perfumes. it needs to be clear product and not being sticky so it can be sprayed on cloth. any tips and recomendations plz? thank you. i make perfumers and were i live there are no perfumers alcohol, so i am looking for a solution to this problem. i bought perfumers alcohol in US and brought some by airplane. my goal is to make sprayable fragrances , clear and without being sticky.

[@theinstituteofpersonalcare6401]

Hi Emanuel, you can email us for formulation consulting, please email [e-mail] thank you

[@rajeshlodha6123]

i want to mix 6 differnt essential oil in water pls suggest emulsifier powder form also will do

[@theinstituteofpersonalcare6401]

Thank you for watching but in order to provide you with specific advice we do need to review your exact situation and allocate time to do so, please purchase consulting time here: personalcarescience.com.au/Advice/cosmeticformulation,brandadvice-797/ And we’ll be in touch to discuss the next steps. Happy formulating! You can also get your formulation questions answered LIVE with Belinda, join our Patreon channel here: www.patreon.com/personalcarescience

[@user-ml6nf6gq6q]

Hi thank you why polysorbate 20 not suitable for cosmetic

[@jenniferwasilik4155]

Polysorbates are not accepted in natural skincare formulations. I don't think the video is implying that polysorbate 20 isn't suitable for cosmetics more that it isn't suitable for cosmetics that are aiming to be considered natural or to receive EcoCert certification.

[@theinstituteofpersonalcare6401]

Polysorbate is perfectly suitable for cosmetics - its just not natural. This video talks you through natural alternatives to polysorbate 20. You can also learn about other alternatives with our Can I use a different surfactant workshop: personalcarescience.com.au/Workshops/Surfactantworkshop-6326/

[@norikomanus467]

How about polisorbate 80 for dissolve the essential oil?

[@theinstituteofpersonalcare6401]

Its not natural, so not suitable in this video subject.

[@N.a.q.1609]

Hello.maam...I have one doubt.. i prepare some hair colours... But when i fill it in tubes.. after some time.. it develops some black colour hole on the body of the tubes.. can you tell me..why it could be..or how it may develop???

[@theinstituteofpersonalcare6401]

Hi Nida, I really can't answer that without seeing your formula. If they are oxidative colourants then you need to get a 3 layer tube - so speak with your packaging supplier. But I can't say for sure without that formula, you can pay for consulting time for specific advice here: personalcarescience.com.au/Advice/cosmeticformulation,brandadvice-797/

[@leithbitar3443]

I need a solubiliser to make water soluble in Oil and not oil in water. Please tell me what to use.

[@theinstituteofpersonalcare6401]

Hi Leith, you'll find tips and solutions in our natural cleansing oils video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qHXCmZeobbCLrZo , I solubilise water in oil in that video; or you can of course make it a w/o emulsion: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eXiodKqdh9t5nK8

[@allinonechannel3880]

Well its quite surprising that the % of preservative is 1.5% which i think should be between 0.05-0.5% max. also the ratio of perfume to solubiliser is very very high (i.e.5/1= 5%) which i expect equal or lower than perfume to solubiliser/ emulsifier.

[@belindacarli821]

Hi Santosh, the 1.5% was the Supplier required dosage for that preservative - when using a preservative you should always work within the supplier provided limits (as I have done) not just use a small limit - that would not have provided effective preservation based on the preservative I used or the product formulation. The video clearly shows that a 5:1 solubiliser:oil ratio was required too - if I used less there would have been more instability. This video was to demonstrate the stability and ability of different solubilisers and using less would not have been an effective test. I think you may have misinterpreted the ratio, please revisit the video where this is stated that more solubiliser is used than lipid. Remember too that you need more solubiliser for essential oils in general than you do for fragrances. I hope this helps.

[@rajkumarkatara7818]

100ml oil perfume +400ml tween 20+100mlDMDM+for100liter quantity

[@theinstituteofpersonalcare6401]

That is not natural - there are a lot of synthetic components there. This video is to help people choose natural solubilisers.

[@TheBerryzflow]

what you are adding in the mix does not seem natural to me

[@belindacarli821]

Hi, the solubilisers used are all recognised as 'green' and suitable in Ecocert/Cosmos Certified products; the polysorbate 20 is of course synthetic but used as the commercial comparison. Hope this helps.