I believe I was the first Norwegian to own a EBR 1190RX, but then again, I live in the US ;-) She is still in my garage against all odds. A trip to Kentucky in August 2018 nearly left us both unrepairable. Thanks to NCCR overseas, I rebuilt the bike, and it is again carving the back roads of Ohio and the Kentucky Appalachian.
@martywilson-h2v Жыл бұрын
This video was very helpful, the other videos were somewhat misleading with oil fill with cartridge out. It worked better for me with cartridge installed despite the time for bleeding the system. Thank you!
@anderskretschmer6405 Жыл бұрын
Thank you so much! I have the same fork in my 2017 Street Triple rs and I was in despair on how to do anything with the leaking simmerrings. Thanks a lot!!
@ebr-fan11173 жыл бұрын
Another great video production from the team at NCCR! Thank you very much.
@SchweissfachMarc3 ай бұрын
Was ein klasse Video! Vielen Dank euch zwei :)
@NCCRSweden3 ай бұрын
Sehr gerne! 👍
@aaronromero6982 Жыл бұрын
the best video that i saw thank you very much help me a lot
@daveemmerson3733 Жыл бұрын
Brilliant video thank you
@johnweber4462 жыл бұрын
Very in depth report on the Showa Big Piston fork, thank you! I have this fork on four of my motorcycles and one of them needs the fork seals replaced, a 2012 Honda CBR1000RR. My only point of confusion before tackling this job is the fork cap installation, a critical item since it contains the adjusting screws for rebound and compression damping. My Honda service manual does not mention anything about fully opening the rebound and compression screws before removing the fork cap, just says to remove the cap. It does mention removing all preload before disassembly. When reinstalling the fork cap, the manual simply says to screw the cap down against the rod end until it just touches and then tighten the lock nut. It seems like it would be easy to mess up the preset rebound and compression settings you already had setup before disassembling the fork. Maybe I'm overthinking this, any thoughts?
@SenoirDude10 ай бұрын
To me it makes sense to NOT re-assemble fork cap with adjusters screwed fully out because it can increase the risk of breaking the adjusters later on. Removal: 1. Undo preload, fork cap compression and rebound. 2. Remove fork cap. 3. Carry out the oil replacement procedure, get rid of air etc When building forks back up and you get to the point before putting fork cap on damper assembly. 1. Screw the fork cap adjusters all the way in (clockwise) from fully out, counting the turns so you know full range (does it match the service manual specs). 2. Rotate the adjusters back out if needed, to match the manual. If you know the max range should be 10 turns, but have found 12, back it out 2. 3. The fork cap adjusters should be at their most screwed in in terms of the range in the manual, at this point. 4. Lightly / carefully screw the fork cap onto damping assembly. 5. Lightly / carefully bring the lock nut up to meet it, but don't tighten. 6. Unscrew the fork cap adjusters 2-3 whole turns. 7. Tighten the damper assembly lock nut (should be safe now the adjusters are further out). 8. Unscrew the fork cap adjusters so they are in the middle of your range from earlier. 9. Carry out the rest of the process to re-assemble. **If you fit the cap to the rod with the adjusters fully backed out, there is the risk you bottom out the cap on the rod. Then later, on the bike, the fork cap adjusters have no way of being undone because they are fully wound out already. But cant screw in because bottomed out. This is how the Showa cap adjusters get broken, trying to turn them clockwise from fully out but its already bottomed out. At least with middle of range, when back on the bike, you have some adjuster thread to undo them "fully" and then can see if screwing them in fully you get the full range still, or uh-oh they bottom out after 3 turns. Once re-assembled, you can carefully try the adjusters by undoing them fully and then doing them up fully. Does the range count still match the manual eg 10 turns. If so, happy days, can adjust as per your preferred settings / standard etc eg From fully in, back out 4 or whatever.
@jasonbernhardsen92862 жыл бұрын
Do you have a parts list for this? I can’t get the parts from Buell, need to go aftermarket and no one seems to have them.
@NCCRSweden2 жыл бұрын
We have usually all parts in stock. NCCR.se
@lowtail903 жыл бұрын
nice video . i have a 2009 xb12ss with a leaking fork seal . can i use this working method . Gr Ab .
@NCCRSweden3 жыл бұрын
No it’s different. But there we have made a video as well. Please check out kzbin.info/www/bejne/eIC5oI1vqJZniKM
@lowtail903 жыл бұрын
thanks for the quick info Gr Ab @@NCCRSweden
@scottallen12282 жыл бұрын
Were can I get fork seals and bushings for EBR1190RX
@NCCRSweden2 жыл бұрын
From NCCR or in the US from Chaz Aagaard AMF in Janesville
@scottallen12282 жыл бұрын
Thank u very much
@HORNET62 жыл бұрын
why not oil fill and then install the piston and rod assembly?
@NCCRSweden2 жыл бұрын
Yes, nothing wrong with that, we have said already in the comment. 👍