UPGRADE your Creality Ender 3 V3 KE with Linear Rails

The Ender 3 V3 KE desperately needed this upgrade!
Help support this channel! / needitmakeit
This is the 3rd video now on this printer, but in this video we come up with a working solution for the bed vibration issues we were having which produced print quality problems. Not all Ender 3 printers seemed to have this issue, but with the small rods and a little bit of time and wear this will become a problem on all printers and I thought it was a good idea to be prepared with a good solid solution that was easy to do for just about anyone.
**SPECIAL NOTE: This has only been tested on my printer, if your printer looks different or things don't fit as you expect, leave a comment and I'll work with you.
Hardware You'll need:
M3 x 12mm (4pcs) - For Front Adapter & Y Axis motor
M4 x 20mm (4pcs) - For Rear rail to base adapter
M3 x 8mm (16pcs) - For Plate Adapters to Carriages
M3 x 8mm (12pcs) - For Rails to Front/Rear Adapters
M3 x 4mm Heat-Set Brass (20pcs) - For All Adapter Plates
US Amazon Link for Linear Rails: (This link supports the channel)
amzn.to/4a5YP9w - You'll need 2 'C' Carriages per rail (4 carriages total)
Linear rail carriages can be purchased separately if you can't find the entire kit - Model # MGN12C-350mm
Aliexpress Link for Linear Rails: (This link supports the channel) - They don't have stock of the 350, you can buy 400 and cut it to size, hopefully stock comes back soon!
s.click.aliexp... - You'll need 2 'C' Carriages per rail (4 carriages total)
Linear rail carriages can be purchased separately if you can't find the entire kit - Model # MGN12C-350mm
Printed Parts:
makerworld.com...
www.printables...
Bambu Display Model by Henlor - Nice Model! makerworld.com...
Another way to support this channel indirectly is through my affiliate links (where I receive a small commission). It helps me to continue to provide high-quality content videos. Thank you for your support!
NEW MIC (I bought this)
amzn.to/3vcMKAr - Rode Wireless ME mic (Saved me about 4+ hours/vid)
amzn.to/3NBFvZe - Mag clip (Super handy, but a little pricy)
BAMBU PRINTERS
shrsl.com/4aghz
CREALITY PRINTERS
shrsl.com/4aghy
CREALITY HYPER PLA
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#crealityEnder3
#crealityk1
#Ender3

[@heyitsdrew]

DO NOT BUY BLACK LINEAR RAILS! They coat them in a rust protective coating (Cold Bluing), yes. BUT what some suppliers do is they take OLD or USED rails and give them this coating to hide it. So you end up with not straight, or poorly coated rails. What you *should* do is buy normal steel rails that **aren't** black because protecting them from rust is not needed since they are already always coated in oil (which protects them), SO you can either keep up with lubrication (to protect the rails from rusting) or you can buy cold bluing solution and do it yourself - Birchwood Casey Super Blue - it is cheap and easy and anyone can do it. Just clean the part well, make sure there's no oil, rub the part in the solution. rinse and repeat (if necessary).

[@tedwaetford]

So glad the algorithm pointed me to your channel. Really like seeing your methodical approach to testing. It's very satisfying you use a range of manufacturing processes to suit the purpose. The amount of time you must put into making these videos with all the printing etc is mind boggling. Your content is very professional, informative and super helpful to a new KE owner like myself. Well done and thank you.

[@hologos_]

For the algorithm!!! ✊You've done some incredible design for this upgrade, always looking forward to what you come up with! 👏 Cheers from vaccation in Bali 😁

[@NeedItMakeIt]

THANK YOU! And thanks for the model, I'll be printing some of these from TPU to go with the Nerf battles. I wish the upgrade with a little nicer looking, but function has to be first. I should have added some honeycombing to it, that would have done the job.

[@user-2df90a0z1]

OMG! Was I the only one waiting for this video to drop??? I was scared cuz there were no tutorial videos... haha now I'm sorta confident about doing this upgrade lmao! Thank you! YOU'RE MY HERO!

[@Leeks88]

The KE is my first FDM printer, and your KE videos are how I found your channel. I’m really enjoying your work, thanks for the great content!

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Hopefully the rods and linear bearings on your printer fit better than mine did. I'll have a few more videos for upgrading this printer coming out as well so that we can get a fast printer with excellent results and keep the price down. There are a few challenges to overcome, but that's what makes it interesting!

[@kslayer0]

@@NeedItMakeIt I just ordered one yesterday as an upgrade to my really old ender 3 and I'm super glad I found your videos as well! Your review of it was very good!

[@NeedItMakeIt]

@@kslayer0 Nice! I have quite a few upgrades/mods coming for this printer.

[@kslayer0]

@@NeedItMakeIt How well do you think those will work out of aluminum? I have a roll of polycast I've been itching to play with more and try casting some actual useful parts! but my modeling/cad skills aren't all that refined!

[@NeedItMakeIt]

@@kslayer0 I've like to see that! I've been getting ramped up to cast some parts as well, but my capabilities are pretty small. I think the plate would work amazingly from alum, I can send you the updated STL if you'd like to try it out. I am just about to re-print a more refined version. You are referring to the piece which I made from Polycarbonate correct?

[@mygamertag2010X]

Very very impressive modeling and problem solving! Your linear rail upgrade is phenomenal. Nice work!

[@alexanderzawydiwski9534]

might do this to my ender 3 v3 SE In the future since the bottom portion of the printer is the exact same as the Ke good video

[@loopymind]

Printing a holder for the filament roll seems to help too, so there isn't this weight at the top amplifying the movement

[@stew675]

Excellent work Mike on going above and beyond to do the work that, IMO, the Creality engineers should be doing prior to product release. It seems to me that the Creality production model needs to change, especially in the face of its competition nowadays that aren't cutting corners nearly as much. Sure, Creality's printers are cheap, but as another commenter points out, to actually get them to a point where they print as well as a competing product that costs a little more, you end up spending way more than that competing product. IMO, the marketplace is changing. More and more people are expecting something that isn't cutting corners straight out of the box. Creality needs to decide if it wants to be a maker of well designed printers for a low cost, or continue to product straight up bargain bin items that don't work as well as the competition out of the box.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Thanks Stew! All of this seems so strange, from the extruder to the rails to the steel plate, what was going on? Was this a noob design? It reminds me of when I was working on our bit CNCs at work a few years ago, we had custom bits breaking constantly, they caused 2 fires as well, when I looked at the design, it was horrific, I worked on a new design with a different company, and we used traditional methods of router bit design, and guess what. Not only did the problem go away, we had better cuts, longer lasting cutters ... and not by a small margin, by a huge margin. No more fire hazard. When something is well designed, it's a beautiful thing. I think Creality can rise to the occasion, they just need to say goodbye to what worked for them a few years ago, maybe it's not so easy. I'd love to see a modular printer design, give me a printer that is build-to-mod, I want threaded holes everywhere! Whatever Creality comes out with next had better blow our socks off, they need to innovate and do things differently. Take everything that people want and find a way to get it into a printer with a ground up design. I always appreciate your insights!

[@throwapot]

Out of curiosity, why not just add an additional set of bearing blocks to the original rods?

[@gabribeta1368]

I'm starting to think creality puts random defects on purpose Just to give us something to work on😂

[@madness3D_]

It's common. Release the least viable product and let the community find the upgrades for you. Then release an "upgraded" version with the community upgrades. That's how they limit engineering and r&d cost.

[@madness3D_]

Support this mans makerworld models so that he gets points for a P1S or X1C. That way he doesn't need to upgrade and troubleshoot his printers 😅

[@802Garage]

I looove this upgrade! Exactly how I would have done it, but I literally couldn't have done it better myself. 😂 It even just looks like a much more solid and stable design. You'll have this printer near perfect by the time you're done. 😜

[@Rozwietr]

Hi, for me some recent videos are too specific so I've skipped them, but I'm sure people having this model of ender will love them. I'm giving thumbs up and comment for ranges anyway ;)

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I have some coming out which are much more broad, I tend to get onto a subject and have to just keep going at it until we get to some conclusion and when I keep finding problems... it's bad news. Thanks for your comment, I appreciate that feedback and I should have a few videos in the next weeks that would apply to a much larger audience.

[@marioperez2443]

This is just what i need, thank you. About the plate, i dónt think it's a good idea, all the plastics gonna flex with time, maybe will print good, but the level mesh it's gonna get worse.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

That's great! What I did was thicken it and chance the design a little bit, it's printed from PC which is very stiff and will hold it's shape even at higher temperatures, 107C is the point it will begin to soften.

[@synapse8093]

Never owned a 3d printer before, but finding ways to upgrade my already budget friendly product is amazing to see. God bless the nerds

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I'm working hard to raise my nerd level, I think I'm sitting somewhere around 55, I need to learn more programming and electronics :)

[@kimmotoivanen]

PC plate might be too flexible (esp. in Z direction) to work well, but let's see it tested :) Does Klipper have Z or weight compensation for IS frequency (Marlin FTM does, for the record)? Or maybe IS for Y should use wider shaper to cover the range from empty plate to full plate / high Z ? Overall, KE sounds like a good printer, until it's not. Likewise K1 sounds like a good printer, but VFA. K1C fixed that, but changed to different harder-to-get nozzle. If you have K1, how about a mod for smaller pulleys etc. to bring VFA on par with K1C? Maybe shorter stepper motors are not required 🤔 Bedslingers are perfect for slow big prints (plus and max variants) and moderate speed (still a lot faster than what we were used to in 2022 - thanks to Klipper and Marlin IS!) small prints. Core-XY seems to be the only way to go for impatient people with a bit more loose money or high requirements for print quality 😅

[@NeedItMakeIt]

It's certainly more flexible, I'd like to look at an aluminum version, and in each case I'd need to buy the accelerometer add-on to allow the resonance to be measured correctly. Right now it uses Klipper with hard-coded values and I could be wrong, but it should be measuring before for input shaping, but also while the print is occurring to adapt while the mass on the buildplate changes. They've made a cheap starter printer, but it's not as easily upgradable as the older gen with the extrusions, this would have been such an easy project if I didn't need to try and fit these parts to something that has such a strange shape. The newer metal frame Ender 3 V3 has a nice flat solid base, but it seems that they've replaced the small rods with larger 10mm, and maybe they'll be a better fit to avoid these issues. Having moved mainly to CoreXY myself, I see a pretty big benefit, mainly the enclosed print, but also that I can design and print something the same day, I can also take an order and ship it out the same day, which is pretty nice for everyone. It is a bit of an instant gratification, wait until the replicators come out.... I like your idea about the VFAs for the K1, there are probably a lot of people that could use an upgrade like this. Creality should provide one!

[@spyke3575]

This made me sub. Great mod and i like that you made an improvement on the current rail mods available. Looks great. Pity the rail sets here are so dam expensive. Greetings from South Africa

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Thanks! It was a lot of work to get to this point, but it turned out well, we just need to work on the extruder and we're going to be in good shape. I was able to get my rails on sale at Aliexpress, but when I went back to look they were out of stock... Amazon.com seems to have them for the cheapest at the moment, but maybe there is another source. Mine weren't the best, the stock Creality one on the X axis was smoother and quieter, and looks better frankly with the black.

[@shadster208]

You hit the spot every time , love your approach and straight to the point problem solving. thanks a lot👍👍👍

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Thank you! It's a great challenge to do these projects, there's always lots to learn, I would have preferred to have a few more mounting holes and flatter surfaces, but that's what raised the difficulty on me.... Maybe I levelled up my design skills?

[@wizardfpv7856]

Why a c carriage over a longer h carriage?? Wouldn't the h be better?

[@Ckannar2]

Is this possible to be changed to MSG9C? I buyed this for mistake and I don't want to waste money 🙃

[@albi1cnobi1]

First off, thanks for the amazing content and tutorials! I have followed 2 of your other videos and created all of the attachment points on the base of my Ender 3 V3 KE and also printed and installed the support arms for the tower. Now I'm attempting to do this upgrade(linear rails), however I'm having a problem printing the front and rear rail attachment plates. The hotbed adapters printed fine but the front and rear plates are giving me fits. I first tried ABS and towards the middle to upper end of the print they end up looking like soft half melted chocolate. Kind of wavy and the very top starts to curl a bit. So I tried PETG and that was even worse. Now I will say that I am a novice when it comes to 3D printing but I've been doing a lot of research on correct hotbed and nozzle temps for different filaments. I just can't seem to get these right. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! Al

[@HeshamALAhdal]

first of all really great job and thank you for your amazing effort to solve these problems!!! but this kinda proof that the KE is shitty printer ??!!! i mean why should i buy a printer that needs this amount of upgrades.... i dont know but i will stay away from it... Creality has more than 30 printers out there and they MUST have some kind of experience of building a 3d printer, why they produce products that needs after market parts in order to work properly ?! !!

[@dpoulson]

I would love seeing your data report on the use of the poly carbonate plate. Great video btw, I've been back and forth on doing this upgrade for a long time. Your revision makes more sense. I never liked how close together the rails were. Spreading them apart makes much more sense. Thanks for all you do for the 3D printing community! I clicked on your two links for the rails. But they didn't come up as the black ones. Am I missing something? Lastly, what model is it that I purchase? And how do you go about cutting them down to 350mm? Thanks again! PS. Do you have an extra spot in your discord group? I would love to listen in to learn. How can I join if you do? Sorry, very new to Discord.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Hi! I think the PC could work well, I will see about making some tweaks to it and see if I can bring this to everyone to try themselves. If not from PC, maybe ABS as an alternative, not everyone has PC, but I'll try to make it so it's printable on any printer (may require at least a towel or two draped over your bed slinger). It seems a lot of people are interesting in the PC option, I will purchase the accelerometer for the printer and then we can get some measurements as well as compare the before and after, the Y axis vibrations are not so great and I wasn't running the printer at full speed, so we can do better. I will also look into an aluminum plate option, alum will cost more, but it should be stiffer and thinner as well. I say that other option for linear rails and I think they did a good job, but I was looking for something a little bit better that would last longer and keep that be as stable as possible no matter where we print the parts. I couldn't find any black rails at a good price unfortunately.... I looked for quite a while but I only saw one set which was far more expensive, so maybe we could use bluing instead? I think they may be stainless I'm not sure the bluing would work well. Yes please join our discord! I have a link on my Patreon page near the top that should work, but if it doesn't let me know. We have a great team on our discord of very talented people and it really to have a crew of people that havev a problem solving mindset.

[@dpoulson]

Thanks for the reply! I found these rail at Amazon. It appears black already. And the description indicates it will accept bluing. What do you think of these? or should I just go with the ones you have selected? Lastly, do I need both M3 amd M4 brass inserts? I know I can go back and review the video. Thanks for taking the time to answer all these questions. PS. I became a pateron ASA member.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

@@dpoulson I don't think it allows links here, but you can send a note on Patreon. Only M3 heat sets are needed on this job, the 4mm screws will go into the power supply. I saw that thank you so much!

[@yzzoarts]

I don't have PET-G filament at the moment. To be honest I never used other filament than PLA... Can I use PLA+ instead for all the parts?

[@Queracus]

people who made first printers with rods were high on something. As a mechanical engineer, when trying to make something as accurately as possible in motion, you would never use rods...especially since price comparison with rails is basicaly thesame for such short travels. If you are in Europe, get the Hiwin brand of rails and low profile carriages. With grease (not oil because it solidifies usually) they will last longer than any of us :) Hope you didnt loose any bearing balls from the carriages when the rail flew out :D than again, using printed adaptors for the plate reintroduces possible future ware and movement. rather give those small pieces to some machinist to make out of aluminium. Threaded inserts are another weak spot - alot of possibility they arent straight, which will introduce tension in the 3d printed plate adaptors. with aluminium adaptor, you can avoid the possibility of crooked threads + you would spot any tension in the assembly, since the carriages would seize up, or they would move harder at some points on the rail (if rails arent parallel) (also thats a great test to check if your rails are parallel). With 3d printed part which can flex, you lose that parallelism check (unless you go trough the tedious work of doing it with the gauge - but even if you do, it can still shift when you assemble the parts. reason being rails have bad reference step to press against (with radius) on the printed mounting parts). Best way to do it is probably ditching the original plate under the bed, and replacing it with your own 3mm tick sheet. Bolt it directly to the carriages. Maybe some holes in it if you think you need more heat dissipation or less weight for the bed, but i dont think its needed once the bed is at working temp. But i rather have stiffness than less weight. at some point weight becomes good if things are rigid, since it dampens vibrations. Edit: ignore the plate thing. you mentioned it yourself at the end. My thoughts about trying to make bed slingers go fast: Instead of making them fast, make them able to print wider extrusions so they will need to make less travel/passes, and save on time from that direction.

[@pb8416]

I'm learning bout 3d printers and how to improve them. I don't see the use for the Adaptor Plate. Could the Bearing Blocks be drilled and threaded. Then have the Bed be direcly attached with spacers for adjustment?

[@Wandering_Horse]

I am curious if the lower bed plate was machined true to remove any bowing as you had pointed out in the beginning of the video, would net any positive results. Printing a bed plate from plastic of any kind seems like a downgrade in my mind simply due to the variable temperatures it will encounter. I have the KE and it is my first foray into 3d printing so my knowledge is limited but I have also worked in precision CNC lathe and milling for aerospace. The first thing I did with this printer was ditch the nylon? bed spacers with precision machined stainless parts, although the rear left corner is sitting on a plastic wire support for the bed heater wires and that is still needing adjustment. I have still experienced the nozzle dragging in the plate inexplicably. Not sure if this is all due to quality issues or simply user errors despite running multiple calibrations. At the end of the day is any of this worth fighting on a $200 entry level unit?

[@darkalleywaystudio3975]

Weird question. The chassis of the KE looks similar as the SE. I have been following your videos for a bit and wanted something more stable for the rails on the SE. It has those two foam pads that work but I can see these needing to be swapped do to wear. Would this upgrade work on SE if you had to guess? Thank you for your videos =)

[@TS_Mind_Swept]

I feel like it would have been a lot less work to modify the linear rod setup, possibly putting in another set of berings (like you did with the rails), and maybe even just replacing the ones that were there with ones that weren't so loose (if you couldn't adjust the ones that were there of course.. seems kind of strange to not be able to 🤔 ). This is definitely a very robust alternative though, and I do agree that it's a bit ridiculous to make something try to move so much mass around so quickly.. but then again, any of the printers are kind of limited by the ability of the material to liquefy and solidify in terms of speed, so why the printers are the only things getting the speed focus is kind of beyond me 🤷🏿‍♀️

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I see that the newer Ender 3 V3 (Metal frame) has larger dia. rods, and I would assume that it's to avoid this problem. My printer being new and already having the be vibrating needed a solution. I covered in the prev. video that the correct size of rods with a pre-load would be fine for this printer. I just figured it be better to have an option for long-term and there is one linear rail option out there but it uses only centrally mounted carriages, so we're back to the teeter totter effect. If they went with rods and somehow were able to run them out further, we could have bearing blocks spaced out further as well and it would be more stable, but they've crammed it all in there to look good I suppose.

[@TS_Mind_Swept]

@@NeedItMakeIt Definitely seems like a bit of a short-sighted design decision to make it like they did... but I suppose they were trying to iterate on previous designs whilst not making them vastly different.. kind of unfortunate that it leaves so much potential for issues like this though, especially when it could have so easily been avoided..well, back to the ol' drawing board 🤷🏿‍♀️

[@NeedItMakeIt]

@@TS_Mind_Swept Maybe it was one of those... "hey you, new guy, we need you to design a printer.. "type of situations.

[@TS_Mind_Swept]

@@NeedItMakeIt Well I wouldn't go so far as to say that.. a lot of the designs are fairly decent on it, but clearly not everything..

[@TS_Mind_Swept]

@@NeedItMakeIt Thinking about it some more, if it was a new guy, it probably would look a lot different than it does since the current design is so similar to the previous; might not necessarily be better, but newer people tend to look at things differently than people that have been doing the same thing for a while

[@przemekkobel4874]

So, no chopping of the printer base... nice. As you redesigned the base plate, it reminded me of something regarding bed warping. I noticed that the bed is perfectly flat when not tightened to the base plate, after mounting and leveling it gets warped a little, and situation gets worse after heating it. Obviously the problem originates from tensions and thermal expansion. So maybe instead of mounting bed directly to the base plate via screws, it would be better to put 4 mounting points on 4 mini linear rails oriented diagonally? They should be tight enough to avoid any slack, and they would keep the bed tension-free (i.e. flat), even when it grows because of thermal expansion. Or maybe I'm talking nonsense, and warping occurs anyway, because the heater PCB expands differently than the bed it is glued to...

[@23_1]

I'm going to try my se by watching your video and referring to it. However, there seems to be no end cap on the lm guide, is there any problem such as the guide breaking away from the rail?

[@Le-Naka]

So, at the end, what was the problem? The printer that you've got? Or is a problem with all KE Printers?

[@TheNamelessOne12357]

The first Ender 3 form 2018 had no such issue. So Creality screwed up their own good design? Are they idiots?

[@peterstoltz3296]

Thank you so much for showing the right ways to upgrade our printer's. I have ender3 v3 se version so im going to order the linear rails for it and what's the number for the x linear rail number??

[@joshpurdy8421]

okay guys i have a super random questions but hopefully someone can help, can these rails be used upside down? i'm am trying to make a movable drop down pedant light in the kitchen, the idea being the light can be moved out with the table when guests are around, then all put back when the night is done, planning to use two rails, and the weight of the pedant light is about 3.2kg ? any suggestions would be appreciated

[@kernalmustang260]

Hey there, I'm trying to find the model for that PC bed that you showed at the end and it appears the invites to the discord you reference are expired. I would love to be able to print it for my KE but my search for the model is coming up empty.

[@オールマイト-y1f]

I might be wrong. But I feel like alot of this could have been easier fixed with removing the fillament from the top heavy loader and adding the anti shake chip and that would basicly acheive the same thing with significantly less investment and time?

[@mikebischoff6104]

is the STL for the honeycomb bed frame available ?? i tried to follow the discord link and it says invalid.

[@kickezer]

Thank you so much. I have ordered everything I need and will be doing this upgrade in the near future! Thanks again for your great effort and help to the community ❤

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I have another one you'll love coming tomorrow morning, enjoy!

[@hammer_thyme]

Would this work with the SE?

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I don't have an SE, I'd need to know how they differ. It looks like the same base, but I don't have any way to be sure. if you can somehow send me photos I can try to verify.

[@m7soares]

Hello, and what would be the guidelines for those who are going to use the mgn9h trail? Thanks

[@noobt4eguns]

If you keep it original will not be ok? You make allot of modifications on KE like it is not good printer

[@whoguy4231]

Printing at the front left corner is when the belts are at their shortest relative to the x, y stepper motors. Any angle made by the belt mounting points to the extruder carriage and the bed support will skew the print as well as any vibration or imperfections from the geared tooth drive or stepper motor.

[@xxoTUBBSoxx]

Hi, im assuming this upgrade would work for the SE as well?

[@Missterpaja]

Maybe you can this video and info to Crealty so they can make changes to the design to prevent this.

[@kevinclydego9755]

what settings would you recommend when printing in abs it keeps on warping when printing the front and rear adaptors

[@ErikBeverloo]

This looks great, I want this on my printer,, is the SE the same as the KE printer?

[@JaizuGz]

Hi, why is PLA not recommended for this? Is it that bad?

[@kredisov]

Hi, Is it possible to use the MGN12H, 300mm rail length instead of 350mm? Are the 300mm screw. holes applicable up to your model? Thank you

[@NeedItMakeIt]

It might be tough with the 300, I'd say go to 400 if you can't find the 350; longer is better. I don't have the specs on hand for each of the different rails, maybe you can find the drawings for standard hole spacing and see what they look like. We also have adapter in the link which work with 12H carriages and they've been proven to work if that helps, it may open up a possibility here or there for you.

[@alpercagangunes]

I I have a same wobbling problem on the right side lineer bearings to. When i press my finger on the right side of bed it goes up and down. But this is my first printer and im not trusting myself to make a huge changes on machine. Maybe one day people start to sell offical upgrade kits for lineer rail upgrade i will buy it but not now.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

If it's a new printer, I'd suggest you contact Creality and ask for replacement parts, hopefully a new set will fit better. Let me know if that works!

[@alpercagangunes]

@@NeedItMakeIt its been almost a month. i contact my seller multiple times and he said he is gonna call me back but never did. i can feel a gap in bearing but surprisingly there is not huge errors in my parts and nearly perfect. so i just let it go. btw thanks for the advice i will definitlty contact with creality directly to.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

@@alpercagangunes Let me know if there is anyway that I can help. I think you should be able to submit a short video to Creality showing the problem along with a short blurb. As far as where the problems are coming from, for me it seems to be that the extruder cannot handle PETG well, I still can't explain it completely, but maybe this is partly the issues you're running into.

[@lordbunny2416]

Is it possible for u to adjust the model for the mgn12h?

[@SpookieNZL]

Is There Any New Updates if Using the 12H Rails? Any issues etc? Also would 300mm be alright or have to be 350mm, since I have the 300mm

[@NeedItMakeIt]

The 12H carriages are good to go as far as I can tell, a few people have tried it with success, and I have those files on MW to download, as far as the 300mm rails, that's risky, the carriages might come too far and you'll... well lose your balls. I would have preferred to go even longer with the rails, but I didn't want them to stick too far out of the front.

[@socc3r7k1ng]

AliExpress sells an Ender 3 v3 SE linear rail kit, that should fit the KE right? Has everything you need for like $50

[@NeedItMakeIt]

As long as it is long enough, the version I've created has longer rails to keep it as stable as possible, there is another version with rails which are set in from the front and back and also side to side, I wanted to have the ultimate solution.... that was the goal anyway. There should be some specs in the video description to compare.

[@jarvis141]

My KE is still on the way in, but I'll definitely revisit this! Good job! 👍

[@30dimos]

worth it, it's not all piped like normal, so it will have a uniform design

[@ParshvaPatel-ib9lm]

Is it possible to modify hotends of this printer to print like and carbon fibre filaments. I want to print nylon parts on budget so I looked at ender v3 ke/se but couldnt find any mods and I dont want to buy older ender 3 which has a lot's of variety in terms of mods but older firmware do you have any suggestion? Btw brillant explanation in every step of the process.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Hi, it is possible, the nozzles for this printer can be swapped for ones with hardened steel tips, but printing higher temp materials with success will require an extruder with hardened steel gears and it'll also need an enclosure. I have a video coming out next week on Wednesday on that subject if you can wait until then to decide.

[@ParshvaPatel-ib9lm]

@@NeedItMakeIt I am definately going to wait thanks for update.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

@@ParshvaPatel-ib9lm No problem, and let me know when it does come out if it helped to make a decision.

[@km_indies7714]

What if I told you that the bold pattern on these do not at all match the carriers I ordered from your amazon link?

[@thatguymakesthings]

Do u think this would work for the v3 se? Has the same base

[@maxkalikster5399]

Isn't the heat from the heating bed gonna melt the 3d printed mounting plate?

[@KaloyanDobrev]

Why a serious channel like this will even consider an Ender printer. If you need content for a cheap printer check the SV06, maybe the plus, but enough of these mediocre designs

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I guess I had a soft spot for the Ender series of printers, that's how I started... at least having successful prints. I actually started with a piece of absolute garbage Anet A8 which was so wobbly it needed upgrades just to keep it together and took me nearly 3 hours to assemble. The Q1 review I just did really makes a good case for why a bed slinger isn't a great option these days, you can get a lot more for a little bit more money with the Q1 or similar Core XY printers which are designed for high-speed printing from the start. And thank you for calling my channel serious!

[@AgentTDM376]

What exact model of control board does this printer use?

[@TheNextGreatGamer]

Would this work on the SE version? They're very similar printers and it looks like it might fit. Awesome upgrade!

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Yes it will, I've had a few people already try it out and there is only one difference, and that's on the steel plate below the bed, it is more hollowed out on the SE than the KE. That does not impact anything for the installation so it should be G2G!

[@shaneraines2094]

Gently dust with baking soda? how did you calibrate how much soda fell on any point?????

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Yeah, it was a lot! I was using talcum powder but I was told not to since it is a known carcinogen. I would imagine it would have to be inhaled in large amounts like anything, but figured it'd be best to avoid it.

[@luistiago5121]

Man, these printers are a bag of problems.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I have spent countless hours on the printer, you're probably right, but I have trouble giving up on it for some reason. It has potential, but the extruder is now the last remaining issue.

[@avejst]

great video Great upgrade Are you not dubling the price for the printer? Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍😀

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I was able to get these linear rails for less than 40$ CAN, that's the entire kit, I luckily had the screws and inserts already, unfortunately I didn't have much of a choice but to fix it. New rods may not have solved the problem and I figured other people would want this if not now, sometime down the road.

[@pendragon2965]

man and here i am trying to get my KE to stop grinding against the infill...

[@julesmarcu5635]

Great job on the linear rail upgrade. As far as the metal under plate being replaced with polycarbonate, Will the heated bed affect the polycarbonate plate?

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Thanks, I still need together back to that printer to finalize the upgrade, but with PC it seems to work well, I modified the design a bit so that it had more stiffness where it matters, but aside from that, the heat tends to go up and there is insulation on the bottom of the bed as well which helps, but it does make me wonder a bit, and I have a thermal camera too, so I can check to see now what it looks like. I also think ABS GF would work well, or possible something with CF in it too mainly to keep it as stiff as possible. The biggest issue to address is still the extruder or extrusion, I really need to get back to the project to finish that part of it off!

[@scottwagner9396]

It looks like this would work on The Ender 3 V3 SE as well. Can any one confirm this? Going to give it a try as they look identical.

[@802Garage]

He replies in other comments that yes, many people have used this on the SE.

[@Some1special]

I see a potential problem. That default hot end is trash. Do yourself a favor and replace it with the one made by micro Swiss. I've had zero blobs and honestly a higher level of detail since I swapped it out. And by swap I mean my printer went full on Akira blob monster and completely filled the entire print head with filiment so it took me a solid day to carefully cut and remove all of the filiment.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

LOL, I was going to work on the extruder next, I just finished the Z stabilization today, they make an upgrade for this exact printer?

[@PrimalShutter]

Good job, the way it should be by default

[@rayder49]

hi thats upgrade aplply in Ender 3 v3 se?

[@motorkafa_motovlog]

Is it compatible with the SE model?

[@MrGarkin]

4th carriage here is either do nothing, or even harmful.

[@stephenduff3215]

With regards to the bolts are they counter sunk or button head?

[@johntodaro30]

I want to do this update, can you make the parts to print for me?

[@goneman2195]

can you please do a direct drive extruder mod? plz

[@datadreamsit8514]

i really hope creality engineers watches this

[@meetpatel4225]

do you have any recommendations for CR10 Smart pro? I always wanted to put linear rails in it.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I had a look and that printer looks quite easy in comparison to upgrade, linear rails mounted to the side of the central extrusion and then we mount the carriages to the plate with a 3d printable angle bracket to have those at 90 degrees as well. There is probably already a kit out there, I believe have seen something. Well I was wrong, it's not for the CR10, it was for the Ender gulfcoast-robotics.com/collections/mgn12-kits/products/mgn12-linear-rails-kit-ender-3. It's the same concept though, it would be 10X easier to do this upgrade than it was for the KE model I just finished.

[@meetpatel4225]

@@NeedItMakeIt Thanks for responding! Do you have any step files for brackets that needed to connect the rails to the gantry? Also where can I buy the linear rails from for the size that will be needed?

[@mauri4763]

@@meetpatel4225 I bought mine from Aliexpress

[@NeedItMakeIt]

@@meetpatel4225 I'm working on another solution so that we can add rods to stabilize the posts, it also needs to look good and print easily so that's a bit of a challenge. I should have an update within the next few weeks on that. I've added a few links in the description for the rails, one is Amazon, the other is Aliexpress. I bought mine at Ali, but they weren't a perfect fit. They'll wear in over time, but it's better to go a little better quality if you can.

[@nathanfroncek6531]

Did you make a video for the bed plate ? Do you have the file?

[@brustertootwopointo4644]

I recently upgraded all of my Creality printers...with new Bambu Lab printers! Never again Creality. You got all you're getting from me. Good bye...

[@PaganWizard]

Would this work on an Ender 3 V3 SE?? I believe they use the same frame.

[@802Garage]

Yes.

[@bigdave0311]

This does work on the SE as well correct

[@JerzyLepecki]

How about the noise while moving?

[@EE-ou4pc]

Does this also work with the SE?

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Yes, the steel plate below the bed has different sizes of cutouts, but they don't affect anything aside from the weight.

[@EE-ou4pc]

@@NeedItMakeItthank you for replying super fast. That was incredible helpful

[@qumonk]

I noticed that the M 3 x 4 head set brass that you used was the wrong size, I ordered on Amazon M3 x 4 x 5 is this the correct size? It is the only ones I could find on Amazon thank you

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I believe mine were 6mm long, 5mm works okay and 4mm is even better. They'll stick down just a little bit, and it won't hurt anything. It took 2 months to receive the correct size from Aliexpress... I ordered some from Amazon, and they arrived the next day!

[@StevenRiveraVlog]

Does this work for ender 3 v3 SE?

[@wfs1965]

Discord link is showing invalid invite

[@suivzmoi]

please do input shaping modeling before and after modifications. this is something i've been having trouble finding on all the online reviews/videos about E3 V3 SE/KE: we actually don't know the accel limit of this printer vs the advertised 8000 . it is always important to quantify objectively before and after changes are made and IS modelling allows fast and repeatable measurements without having to rely on subjective prints. my assumption is that all these modifications may not actually show improvements at stock settings but may prove their value at higher accel--meaning they unlock potential but you have to print faster to see it. regarding the 0.5mm droop at front right bed attachment, i have a feeling that the base of the printer on which the rails are attached may not be flat. it is after all also a stamped piece. i noticed you checked for parallelism of the rails in Z plane but not for parallelism to the Y plane. the front side of right rail may itself be 0.5mm lower than the rest of the rail plane. assuming a 150mm separation in the rails a 0.5mm droop is something like 0.2deg which is within precision thresholds of a cheap spirit level + eyeball and definitely detectible with a digital one. if the rails are misaligned in Y plane this will actually transfer flexing forces through the rail adapters/rail/rail carriage and into the stamped metal base. the base should flex the most but i think the printed adapters may also suffer from premature maintenance required. if the rails are misaligned in Y, the 0.5mm shim should be under the rail rather than above it.

[@StevenRiveraVlog]

Where can I find the file for the plate?

[@cthulpiss]

That PC plate will be wonky, I'm afraid. Do you know of some good quality alternatives for Creality's builds plates Type B, textured, for Ender/K1/K1C ?

[@mjenx86]

Thanks for showing us your amazing work! I'm blown away by how much time and effort went into this upgrade, not to mention all of the filming and editing. Adding this to my list of future upgrades to my KE.

[@petercallison5765]

Hard to keep up with all the new models, I thought this upgrade might make it equivalent to the CR10 SE but it has a different extruder. So obviously the extruder on the KE is not meant to be their best. I was interested in the Ender 3 V3 CoreXZ but at the price it makes no sense when I can get the Flashforge 5M cheaper. By the way you cannot buy extruders for the KE or CR10 SE.

[@justen1433]

can i have the bed plate stl file, please it looks very nice

[@mariuspetcu7482]

Outstanding Work ...Congratulations 👏... Sincere Thanks for Sharing with us .. I intend to buy this printer and looking for some Onnest Reviews I found yours ... If I can get the Money I will buy it ... Thank You again and God Bless You 🤝

[@duggerd9]

Just had a stock rail go bad on my Ender 3 V3 SE and looking to do this upgrade. Unfortunately, I cannot seem to find "C" blocks. Any chance of modifying it to fit "H" blocks? Those are easily available.

[@komiteunofficialaccount9224]

What's the model that you used for the test print? The XYZ corner thing. Anyway, I've been watching your KE stuff and it's definitely very solid man, I've been 3d printing for... a month? (also learning CAD to help me design parts to help around the home) and I'm super excited to see what you do next with this printer!

[@vonkertis]

Hi. Had to use longer M4*20 for Y-axis positioning as the original one didn't touch the trigger when rolling the hotbed. Now it collides with the front adapter, blocking the hotbed movement and messing up print coordinates during the print pause / color change. How to overcome it?

[@mobileflea]

My ender 3 v3 ke lasted a week before it failed try to return no response. It's cheaply made.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

That's no good, I can't say I've heard of this problem. Was it the board?

[@scottwk1]

I'm trying to figure out about printing the parts needed in PETG-CF as you have. Did you do this on the KE? If so, what slicer and settings? I'm having a problem finding settings on printing PETG-CF in general that don't cause underextrusion