New 3D Printer - Build Log #13

[@DeadlyAssets]

This info is GOLD to anyone who needs to wire a Ramps (or clone) board! I have wired my Prusa so many times I cold do it asleep, but this is vital info for anyone who is starting or unsure. A+++ goto the top of the class! If your already on top, goto the bottom & be a lap in front!

[@GetBlitzified]

I feel like you should be a professor. You explain things really well and have an excellent upbeat tone of voice. Awesome work!!

[@Tech2C]

Cheers!

[@asennad]

I've been really impressed with your 3D printer design. I tallied up the parts cost and decided as a beginner it was better to purchase a DIY kit and then build your frame later. I picked up an ANET A8 for around $150 US. Got it up and running and will be building your frame next.

[@kevinpcoulson]

I LOVE THIS SERIES BUILD MORE PRINTERS

[@tommundy4709]

Awesome videos, awesome printer and excellent quality. I have been looking into upgrading my reprap i3 for a few weeks now; having watched these videos and seen what you're getting out of it I have just ordered some extrusion to start my build! Thanks a lot!

[@jacobrollins37]

I am really loving your videos on building your 3D printer. I hope to build it someday, but I don't have the time right now, and I want to see how far you go with all your mods on the printer. Keep up with the great work and quality of your videos.

[@LukePettit3dArtist]

Can you make one on setting up and using the proximity sensor please?

[@robertroy6094]

Excellent series. One of the best I've seen. I'm going to build one.

[@Tech2C]

Well, thank you Sir!

[@shadowblade4199]

Wow, so step by step, ty. Looking forward for your other projects.

[@solidus784]

you've brought keep it simple stupid to a fine art great job mate.

[@ilyatulchinsky339]

It would be great if you could make a video on how to calibrate your printer. There are so many methods and files. I love your simple approach to things. Maybe you can share how to simply set it up? Thanks for great designs and videos.

[@digitalcowboy001]

I have everything wired up and working except the parts cooling fan, it does turn on at all. I have it wired up to D 10 and used your config . H file. Thanks, Justin

[@trosslv]

I enjoyed your excellent videos. I would like to build a larger 3'x4' to print some interior plastic panels airplane panels (trim panels only). Looks like Z-axis on all four corners would be required. Not sure if I could build something rigid enough to work. I've build an MPCNC in the past. I'll re-visit your site and watch again before I try to build anything. Not enough time in near future anyway.

[@neilyboy]

amazing job with this build buddy. I am just about to start printing parts!!

[@charles1379]

great video series, thank you. i suggest that the wiring loom is anchored to the frame near the board, from which all the cables fan out to the board. leaving the cable swinging in the breeze may cause a failure somewhere. cheers

[@Tech2C]

A prudent suggestion. Thx!

[@bbogdanmircea]

Haha I have the ramps like for 2 years and now is the first time that i realize that green connector for 12 V you can actually disconnect ...

[@rayrodrick1951]

Excellent instructions for a nice 3D Printer. Might it be better to rotate the heated plate so that the cable is on the rear. This would put less vertical strain on the heated bed platform.

[@bronkula]

I have been banging my head trying to figure out what you've done to wire the sensor, especially the part where you're "piggy backing" Can you post an illustration of what in the heck is going on for that whole connection? I would greatly appreciate it.

[@michaelmcpherson6033]

Did you ever figure it out? I’m looking for the same info :(

[@marcisern4868]

Great printer, I have been following your videos from a while now and learning a lot, I currently have a P3steel but I start ordering pieces for the Hypercube :). Just one suggestion, maybe is a nonsense, but if you attach the brass nut support facing down you will win 20mm extra for the Z axis. Instead of using the top and rear faces of the alu profile using the bottom and rear faces. Maybe it doesn't work, just thinking out loud. Congratulations for the design!!!!

[@Atechtechnology]

i am also making this printer but extruder motor is not working please tell me what is my mistake???

[@EngineeringVignettes]

I just noticed the Z-axis motor winding polarities were swapped (but not the windings themselves) for the Z-axis motor. Is this anything to do with the motors location? I know you have been playing around with Top vs bottom mounted z-drive motor locations... BTW I have mine on the top of the frame, shaft pointing down & using a coupler. Cheers, - Eddy

[@kortt]

Very helpful video thanks! What are the black connectors that plug into the ramps board called? are they dupont connectors?

[@staylor3024]

Your wires are Blue Red Green Black with Red nearest Power In. I bought RAMPS wiring; Online sources say the Ramps wiring should be Red Blue Green Black *with Red nearest Power In. The 4-plug connectors for stepper motors on the "Ramps Wiring Set" were in the sequence Red Black Blue Green which meant I had to attach my i2 motor wires to those plug wires in the "correct order". Predictably - They didn't work. I know all this is a Learning Experience but would it be too much to ask 3D Parts Suppliers to Standardise this? or perhaps the wiring set makers could get the motor wire colours in the right sequence.

[@Vido89]

At 8:04 you show resistor divider with two resistors, so why do you have second one, one to the left connected at lower point on wire from the left one ? So setup like that will show always z min as TRIGGERED ? And whats are values of those resistors ? Tnx

[@Grearson]

Greetings, since i guess you are familiar wither other CoreXY Designs, i wonder how would you compare for example the D-Bot against your Hypercube?

[@Rhamnus]

Hi, Great video series on building a 3D printer. I'm quite new to 3D printing and I'm planning to pick myself up a Prusa I3 with the Z-axis auto level feature. Do you have any tips for the prusa, seeing that you have used one before this new printer, and would you recommend to plan a brand new build to make the build area larger at all? Thanks

[@JaimieFryer]

Did you think about making the leg portion of the frame a little long and mounting the board parallel to the desk its on and then covering it up for a neat build?

[@Tech2C]

That's a good idea. I may make other mounts to facilitate this. Cheers :)

[@aydinuzun6658]

Hello my friend. I took you as an example and made the printer. But I got stuck in the software. Can you help.

[@IceCreams62]

Hi. A very great work, my compliments, but did you think about the possibility to use BLTouch instead of the Inductive sensor ?

[@robertblot4513]

I currently do not own a 3D printer, but am very excited by what you have created here. It appears I can get everything from Banggood except for the frame pieces. Where can I get the parts you printed for the assembly?

[@bainsonic]

very nice printer design what is the maximum or minimum layer height of your printer? and the x,y speed?

[@Sonicshadow191]

@tech2c can you release an updated version of the configuration.h files you used please! I cannot find an older version of marlin and the new versions of marlin don’t work with your config files.

[@Tech2C]

Here is Marlin 1.1.8 github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/releases/tag/1.1.8

[@Sonicshadow191]

Tech2C BRILLIANT! thank you so much! This has also got rid of the triggering when open and vv issue I’ve been having.

[@Khasawy]

can you do a vid regarding simplify 3d settings you use to run the printer please

[@2asd1asd2]

Is it possible (is it easy) for a total beginner with 3D to build this printer but make it bigger? I need a print area from at least 40cm 40cm 40cm.. and second question.. is it possible to make on both sides a motor that moves the print area? Do you maybe plan to make a tutorial for a bigger printer? Nice channel!!!

[@Tech2C]

This is an open design so you can make the frame as large as you like, just be aware the larger it is the lower the acceleration you will need to set. If this is your first printer then building any printer won't be easy initially.

[@thedream7504]

hello, Is it possible to have the precision on the impression, per rapport has an Anet A8. Best regards André

[@ulissessalvador]

Good night I made a printer like yours and I am using the RAMPS1.4 12864 LCD Display Controller, but my screen does not show anything stays on but does not show anything could tell me how to configure marlin to put my screen to work

[@Tech2C]

In configuration.h you need to enable the type of LCD display you have. It's towards the bottom of the file.

[@ulissessalvador]

Tech2C Good afternoon and thanks for the help, but I ended up getting congratulations for the project some parts I made a few changes thank you

[@JustinJJHCS1]

you have updated this config file so there is no longer a configuration.h with probe also I tried plugging this into Marin 1.1.9 it will not allow this Configuation.h file to work. ..... will this config work just as well for a MKS 1.0 I have 2 MKS 1.0 and they work well with my TEVO Turantula but I still have the probe problem with it no being able to use the probe if I plug indirectly I guess I need the 12VDC to get it to work with the PNP probe

[@AnandKumar-bj1ux]

Sir pls help ,solved extruder motor are not rotating reverse direction

[@max-vz5sw]

Great vid man very usefull! but I've got a question: does the printer auto home axes after a print? Maybe a stupid question but I've got to know.

[@Tech2C]

You can specify the end-gcode in your slicing program. So you could include G28 to home the axis after the print is complete.

[@LucasHartmann]

Great video log! Any plans on making it a heated chamber? The form factor is very friendly for that!

[@furkancaymaz77]

Please compiling the program can help you find too many errors?

[@juliend2917]

Hi beautiful project have you an idea of the total price of the print ?

[@OzFaxFlyer]

Hey I apologise in advance if someone (Tech2C?) has answered @Hamilton Kline 's question about how to "piggyback wire" the inductive Z sensor to reduce the 12v on the Signal wire - but I can't find it, and I'm going blind replaying the vid. Has someone got a circuit diagram, resistor values etc?

[@vichito3]

Hi, Tech2C your Design si great, thank you for sharing. I' ld like to know if I can use the MKS Gen_2Z v1. 2 board and the components of the sunhokey Prusa I3? Thanks

[@Fresco272]

The board is based on Mega 2560+Ramps 1.4 so it is compatible. Personally I am using MKS Gen V1.4 insted of ramps and it works fine without problems. MKS is just better in term of manufacturing quality, mosfets are not getting hot and will not burn. Also terminals are way better.

[@MrCtx32]

Hey Tech, I have the configuration file you put on Thingy, Is it editable or do you have a file for editing? Thanks

[@yangyunbo1]

hi very interesting about your 3d printer，and i wonder if Y axis could build it with “HiWin MGN 12H" linear guide or similar guide will be more great.cause there don't have 3d printer like this. i am so dissatisfied with my kossel printer and i used 3 linear guides if could reuse them will be much better!

[@ManhattanRafael]

Might some one help me? I ve follow all steps from these videos and for some reason when I send a command to move on pronterface it dosen't work... the 2 motors beeps and heats up but there is no movement... the only way to move is pressing the red circle (when it goes to some corner until the endstop. What does it might be? In the code there is not a XYJerk... there is a XJerk and a YjerK which I set as the same number. Where I set the Min, Max and mainly The Initial position?

[@cubefpv1612]

I got one big problem which i couldn't figure out and also didn't find on the internet. Maybe you can help me out. I build my Hypercube just like tech2c and used the same parts and settings but for some reason when i move every axis, (so when i am homing the printer), it only moves very slow maybe with about 2mm/s and the bed only with 0.5mm/s. So far i couldnt figure out the problem, because it must be a speed or acceleration problem, becaue its only on the X, Y and Z-axis not the extruder. And jes i have put in the bridges for 1/16 steps and the motors don't seem to vibrate and when i start a print the printhead moves just about 1cm and starts printing instead of moving to the center of the bed. I would be happy to finaly start printing, maybe you can help me out?

[@robertkras5162]

wondering why you don't just print the t-slot nuts - at least for the lighter non-structural parts

[@Khasawy]

Can you please do a configuration.h without a heated bed. ps love your work

[@dylanwhopper]

so I had my board plugged in to the pc and then plugged in the 12v power. the USB on the board started smoking and the screen would not show Marlin. any ideas on what went wrong?

[@sz72909]

Hi, I really think that this series of videos is the most helpful and enjoyable that I've seen on KZbin. I have one question, though it might sound stupid: where can I find a detailed diagram that shows how the belts are routed exactly. also, would help a lot if you have a link to the complete firmware source or changes to Merlin. Thanks for all you do.

[@ZSFormations]

Hello! should I still buy the Ramps 1.4 kit or there is something else better ??? thxx

[@ejalal]

Great video as usual.

[@Wodpuncher001]

My printer worked fine, but I must have turned the motors too fast while it was off.. My stepsticks +Arduino fried. Well, I changed the Arduino, the ramps and stepsticks Now my LCD only shows white and I cant do anything. Why and how can I fix it

[@chizzel4u]

I got a ANET A8 3d printer, can I use those parts also for the hypercube?

[@Tech2C]

Sure can!

[@chizzel4u]

Tech2C do i need to make the frame bigger? the bed is 220×220 of the A8. or wil it fit your design?

[@Tech2C]

Kris Aerts Yes you can increase the size of the X and Y print area by adding 20mm to the extrsuions and rods for X and Y.

[@chizzel4u]

Ok. Thx m8. Orderd all component. Wil post picture when hypercube is ready.

[@JB-kh7vg]

great video! this was one of the most usefull video's thus far. i finally know what the bulk of the settings do:)

[@MrWeaponlord]

Wil RAMPS 1.4 work with a 24v power supply?

[@JGunlimited]

Noob here... curious what is the fiberboard underneath the print bed for?

[@computerguy4960]

I notice your voice sounds a lot like eevblogs XD Love your vids btw

[@Tech2C]

No no, eevblogs voice sounds like mine :P

[@computerguy4960]

Tech2C lol

[@TechEngineerCa]

Awesome build! I am wondering if you ever considered the smoothie board for the printer? It is pretty much the next generation of 3d printer controller boards and can support a better UI and touchscreen. It might be a nice add on to this great build to make it even better. Are you also considering placing LEDs in the printer and making a closed enclosure to heat up the enclosure for better ABS prints? I am considering that but am not sure how well the pla parts will hold up in there.

[@Tech2C]

I really want to go 32bit, touch screen, wifi etc but the items are a bit pricey. I've heard moving to 32bit can improve print quality so that may be a valid reason to pony up the cash. LED's, sure that'll happen at some point. An enclosure is something I don't need at the moment as I seldom print in ABS, but having an enclosure makes it viable to vent the fumes outside in a controlled way. So many options...

[@simonbarbarasch7169]

ok so someone explain what the advantage of autoleveling is. if your bed is not level, the bottom of your print will not be flat. the printer can correct if it is tilted at a constant slope, but if one side is higher it will screw with your print right?

[@brianboni4876]

First of all the bed has to be flat, autoleveling does not correct for that. What autoleveling does is to first calculate the bed deviation from level, then it applies this information while printing to allow you to print on a non level bed. You still want to manually level and keep an eye on your Z axis and make sure it's not moving too much if it does not need to because autoleveling uses the Z axis to accomplish its task.

[@hurolkocoglu2841]

hi Tech2c i have just finished my hypercube. thanks for every thing. But my extruder doesn't work even though the temp has reached the min extruder temp value. I tried 2 different board set including 8 different stepper driver, 2 differnt arduino and 2 different ramps 1.4 board. I used your configuration.h file with marlin 1.1.x which downloaded from marlin fw. Please help me :((

[@B0G0MIP]

X and Y movments on my build are very slow, compared to the video, and the Z axis dos not move at all and the stepper is just making some knocking noise. how do I have to set the jumpers for each motor driver? I'm also no sure about the motor wirering. my motors have Red B+, Blue B-, Black A+ ,Green A- according to Banggood web site

[@garymyers7696]

bitman ([

[@LukePettit3dArtist]

Do you really need a voltage divider for the proximity sensor at 6 - 36 volts you can just use the 12 vilts from the board can't you?

[@Tech2C]

The sensor is powered by 12v, but the trigger wire also outputs 12v to the arduino/ramps boards, which they can't handle.

[@LukePettit3dArtist]

Thank you all clear now :-)

[@s3rkanAGA]

NPN sensors don't need a voltage divider AFAIK. I am using a 18mm NPN one with brown is connected to a 12v out from RAMPS, blue is connected to ground and the black is connected to signal pin of the Z endstop.

[@johnshort9490]

Tech2c Any chance you or someone else could explain why my printer thinks X100 Y30 is X0 Y0 no matter what I change in Arduino? This is where the print goes when I start it up and it will not let me move along X or Y more than this. (Note, I have removed the inductive sensor and gone back to the Z endstop - for now).

[@Tech2C]

What happens when you home X and Y? Do they move to the X and Y endstop and then say X0 Y0?

[@johnshort9490]

No, home X tries to run out the back of the machine and home Y tries to run out the left side of the printer even though that's where the end stop is. G1 X10 Y10 works properly but only to the same 100,30 coordinates where it all stops and registers 0,0. M119 also shows all working properly.

[@johnshort9490]

Going to swap out the Ramps board. Just noticed there is no power to the heated bed. I wouldn't think that would affect the end stops and movement, but who knows.

[@johnshort9490]

Ok, we're back in business or sort of. I replaced the Ramps and discovered that the printer still thinks 0,0 is around the center of the build plate, although it's not, and now the Z-Axis motor is binding up (never happened before). Any comments.

[@johnshort9490]

So I fixed the Z-Axis motor. Swapped in a new driver and all seems well. Except where the printer thinks 0,0 is.

[@kamakaze2007]

honestly i started watching this 2 weeks ago.. and i bought and just assembled my own cheap chinese knockoff prusa i3.. unfortunatly i think the board has a crystal oscilator thats fried.. but it still prints.. just cant firmware update it.. :( anyways its a good summer project

[@_numanair_]

It's driving me nuts that you never add imbedded areas for the nuts. I can't imagine having to deal with all those loose nuts throughout this build!

[@Tech2C]

Was there a pun in that statement? :P I chose not to include nut traps because in my possession I have 3 M3 nuts with different thicknesses and outer dimensions. The problem I faced is everyone probably won't have the same type of M3 nuts so better to leave it open and use nyloc nuts instead.

[@_numanair_]

:P I didn't realize nuts of the same size came in different outer dimensions. Makes sense though.

[@johnshort9490]

Can anyone explain why my motors keep running after the end stops are triggered?

[@Tech2C]

Enable this in configuration.h #define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS

[@jumpuli8359]

A marlin for this printer?

[@JGunlimited]

Ah, insightful!

[@carmelo42]

once again, great video :)

[@ErosNicolau]

Thank you!

[@Dust599]

Any progress on the power supply mount?

[@Tech2C]

It's coming... I've ordered a 110/240v socket/fuse/switch mount. Once it arrives I'll design a cover, and a mount to the 2020 extrusions.

[@darapbill296]

hi i got this error but i cant see where to fix it.. someone pls help me .. You must set Z_PROBE_DEPLOY_HEIGHT in your configuration."

[@borgelite]

Thx for your excelent howto ! 👍

[@markellison8456]

About how much does it cost you to build a HyperCube excluding the printed parts?

[@Tech2C]

Under $250, depending on how much you pay for the aluminium profile frame. Checkout the Thingiverse link in the description for links to prices on parts.

[@bronkula]

It cost me over 500, starting from scratch. I needed to purchase all fasteners, all electronics, and things like cable management and cable ties.

[@clypeum5063]

Hamilton Cline duuuude... 500$ is way too much for the "exact" one from tech2c... for 500 you can get a way more powerfull controler, bigger heated bed + bigger extrusions etc, a nice lcd and some extra stuff like nozzles and some filament

[@bronkula]

clypeum in order to start from scratch and purchase the same printer tech2c has, and use his links for the purchase, it costs roughly 530 dollars us.

[@clypeum5063]

Hamilton Cline delivered to you from banggood and ebay? no way.

[@bbapedro]

hi! sorry but we spent abaut 5 hours because you don't explain how to run the right code.. when we try to connect with pronterface return an error "Attempted to write invalid text to console, which could be due to an invalid baudrate" we have to edit configuration.h and change de default value of #define BAUDRATE 115200 bye please upload a video with more details

[@bbapedro]

anyway your work its excellent

[@MrCtx32]

OOPPPPSssss, I found it. Brain shut down. Thanks

[@jerry73j]

my z prob stay on without touching the heated bed

[@chloemcholoe3280]

as much as ramps is cheap and nice god it sucks so much. so many horrible design decisions and problems with it. tho in 2019 there's stuff like SKR which is 20$ and 32 bit