NEW! ADVANCED DIY 3D Printer | Project Valkyrie | High Temp Option

ADVANCED | Valkyrie DIY 3D Printer Project | High Temp Materials Option | 100% Engineered
GITHUB: github.com/RoyBerntsenDesign/...
DISCORD: / discord
FB: / valkyrie3d
WWW: vkingprinter.com/project-valk...
Frame KIT: makersupplies.dk/en/3d-printe...
If you want to support the development - consider becoming a patreon or supporting with a coffee:
/ pro3d
www.buymeacoffee.com/pro3d
Help Reaching 10 000 Subs: kzbin.info?...
Specifications for Designed Size (Scalable)
Frame footprint - 500X520X750
Print volume - 310X310X300
Weight ~45Kg
Option to print high temp materials 300+
Development Team
Roy Berntsen - Lead Engineering Designer
Mark Bridgewater - Mechatronics Design and Electronics
Chris Lombardi - Design, Firmware and Advanced features
Project partners:
makersupplies.dk/en/3d-printe...
www.bondtech.se/product/lgx-l...
www.a7lab.xyz/
trianglelab.aliexpress.com/

[@koenvanduffel2084]

Impressive level of attention to detail! You list your competition on the webpage. However you don't have competition on a number of features of this design in the self build range of printers especially the high temperature capability is unique as far as I know.

[@PRO3DESIGN]

Wow, thank you so much for the feedback. Me and my co developers have put so much into developing this and it is very nice to get positive feedback. Some have been saying it is to complex but this is not for everyone so that is ok, and really when you break it down it is designed with KISS in mind. Our drybox is also nothing the competition has, as the proper insulated chamber and high temp options. So thanks again

[@koenvanduffel2084]

@@PRO3DESIGN Agree, the dry box is unique as a built in part of the printer. It's a great touch. The positioning of the XY motors is unique and innovative as well, allowing to keep them outside of the box and nice and cool without adding too much bulk to the entire system. I would love to see a video explaining the advantages/disadvantages of this inverted coreXY layout as you call it.

[@PRO3DESIGN]

@@koenvanduffel2084 Thank you again for this. I will try to make some content on the pros/cons of the inverted kinematics. I really twisted my brain to design this system, it was not done in one go...

[@samuelp1227]

Can't wait to finish mine! Almost there!

[@jamesmade]

Love the detail, great vid 👍

[@PRO3DESIGN]

Thanks a lot James

[@ZhechenZhu]

Excellent design. Really no DIY designs for high temp printing that I'm aware of. I won't call Doom Cube a real high temp printer... Having thought about designing own, I have to say there is a lot to consider. The XY motor design is very elegant. More designs should use kinematic coupling for bed fixture. The only concern I have for you design is the extruder motor and the z belts. Maybe route the water cooling to a 40x40 cooling plate attached to the motor? Z belts take quite some load. Not sure how much they would stretch under high temp. Ball screws would be ideal IMHO, but more complicated designs also. And does your design include an active heater? During printing the bed should provide enough power. But preheating the printer from cold would take really long. Also I think you can forgo the heater in the filament box. Adding a vent to the chamber should provide enough heating/drying for the filament. Thank you for sharing you design. Keep up the good works!

[@PRO3DESIGN]

Thank you so much for your thorough feedback. Regarding the extruder it can be watercooled no problem. We already have this in mind and if you aim for even higher temeratures you can move the extruder outside. Regarding the Z belts they work very well for the the designed size with a 135C rating but if you are concerned about it you can add a belt number 4 to the rear lift as that one is lifting double the weight of the two in front. I thought about ball screws but it just get very expensive if you want something decent. It can be modified for ballscrews if you want to to this yourself and if we find the belts not reliable I will do something about it. Stage 1 does not have active heating in the current release but that is the plan and we are working on it for the full SI release, so yeah it is in the works. We want a heater in the drybox so we can use it just as a filament dryer as well as a drybox not having to turn the chamber heater on

[@ZhechenZhu]

@@PRO3DESIGN Thanks. Good to hear that there are on-going development planned. Really want this project to be successful. Good luck. And thanks again for the hard work and generosity.

[@rikilshah]

Very detailed design! I would like to know your opinion on one particular issue in printer built with extrusion channels. Is is possible that due to high temp inside the printer, Entire frame flexes? I use a RatRig Vcore-3 and I have faced issue of bed level going wrong after a while. A quick solution we use to preheat the printer before starting the print which allows frame to flex and that flex is removed by true bed levelling. But that is not ideal. Frame is absolutely rigid yet we have faced this problem.

[@PRO3DESIGN]

Hi Rikil. Thank you! All metal expands with temperature, the parts have different thermal expansion so this is something that can cause some binding in the system. You absolutely want to heat soak your machine before printing anyway but yeah using aluminum frame and steel linear guides can cause some issues due to different expansion rate. For these machines it should be OK to deal with this issues but if you want a better solution then you must consider building the frame in steel not aluminum.

[@graykimchi]

Any reaons behind using MIC6 build plate vs borofloat? Im not certain but off of memory I recall the thermal expansion of borofloat is significantly lower.

[@PRO3DESIGN]

Hi. Not sure what you mean. Borofloat? Also I didn't recommend mic6 alloy, we use cast al5083 as it has better thermal properties. I don't know borofloat

[@graykimchi]

Interesting. didnt know about the better propertiesi of cast al5083. Borofloat 33 is Schott brand name for borosilicate glass (it has an ultra low thermal expansion coeff compared to most "borosilicate" glass build plates from Asia.)

[@3dexperiments]

Fantastic project! Will there be an option for air filtration?

[@PRO3DESIGN]

Thank you 3DE. Yes Filtration is being researched at this moment and will be part of SX release for sure and maybe se can get it ready for SI 1.0 full release

[@stevan367]

What is benefit of building this printer compared to other printers that can reach higher temperatures? Currently my Voron 2.4 can go up to 70-71 degrees chamber temperature and Im working on Doomcube mode with aim of 80-90 degrees chamber temperature. I had found this printer while I was searching for really high temperature 3d printer, I'm planning in future to build something using E3D bed (one that can go up to 200 degrees celsius) and actively heated chamber with up ro 150 degrees celsius.

[@PRO3DESIGN]

Good question. Our bom is rated to 80c so the benefit is not much. The max chamber temp for this build would be 120c for the insulation and 135 for the belts. 80c for the magnets and electronics. Printed parts are 100c. Anything higher is all metal building and will push the final bom to the 10k plus cost. This build is 2k so it's not up there

[@marcus3d]

It would be nice if the door would fold flat onto the top, instead of sticking up vertically.

[@PRO3DESIGN]

You can do that if you want but not with this hinge. We researched all options and this is what we found to be the best. It is DIY so you can do what you want

[@marcus3d]

@@PRO3DESIGN Yes, the top hinge bars would have to be either at the top edge of the box, or L-shaped. Like so: kzbin.info/www/bejne/oZfXZHShr5mnd68