New EV Charger Electronics

[@DaivG]

Thanks for sharing your iteration process, awesome to see your work evolving!

[@joephillips6634]

very coul video

[@binauralauto3621]

This is awesome Josh! I am an EV connoisseur. I've been in and out of most DC fast chargers in the industry, and I am thoroughly impressed at the simplicity of your setup.

[@MichaelDobbins]

The bus bars are cool. They made a great entertaining video showing off skills and equipment. But, it also highlighted the complexity they add to the manufacturing process. As pointed out in other comments, bare bars are a hazard. The suggestion to use heavy gauge wire simplifies it all. I would suggest standard insulated 6 or 4 awg. Cut to length, strip the ends, bend and solder into position. No fancy equipment or jigs. I love what you are doing with this project.

[@ltpinecone]

As always, awesome stuff! Keep it up, the world needs innovation like this!

[@boyroy00]

Can't wait to install one on my house.

[@jackcoats4146]

Love your progress!

[@tkmedia3866]

You should consider designing unit for compatibility with aluminum wire. There are many advantages to it yet so few EVSE support it.

[@tullgutten]

Aluminium wire is shit. And if you want to use it just use a copper to aluminium lug on the cable

[@jacobcarlson4010]

The only real “advantage” to aluminum wire is that it’s (literally speaking) cheaper to buy than copper. Other than that, the resistance is significantly higher which means much more power lost to heat, it expands and contracts more so is more important to bury it well below the frost line, but the biggest drawback is the power loss in transmission. That’s why I took out the aluminum wire that feeds the breaker panel under my kitchen; 6 gauge aluminum, only 38’ long, when I’d turn on my stove’s “16 amp” element, the voltage would drop from 248 to 216, and the element would pull 18 amps to compensate (still well below the supposed “50 amp” rating of the wire, but the voltage drop makes it clear that going any higher draw would be a terrible idea). And that’s over a less than 40’ run; the longer the run, the greater the voltage loss and the more amps it pulls; and that’s assuming the voltage stays high enough that the loads still power on.

[@tkmedia3866]

@@tullguttenI use it all the time but not for everything. Usually for longer sub panel runs. Depending on the environment location some places are too damp and would cause issues with aluminum over time with corrosion.

[@lindenmeyer11]

Isn't a Bus bar over complicating? Can't you use solid 6mm2 copper wires instead? Cheers

[@TarasZaporozhets]

Nice. Do you have any plans to add a PLC for ISO15118 to support bidirectional charging?

[@michaelschneider7546]

Do you intend to be able to handle more than 32 amps? 40 or 48amps?

[@jabbathespud]

Planning on insulating the busbars? Having them bare and having something conductive drop on them would be bad.

[@PrograError]

Sounds like you should invest in a setup to mock test for extreme temperatures with a mock car handshake resembling the real ones. Feels like a PITA to have to walk all the way out to the car, when you just want to test for temperature variance...

[@davidabineri908]

It seems that your system should appeal to cities sice it seems that they could mount your sockets on telephone poles carrying power lines. Is this the case, are they showing any interest in this method over having charging stations?

[@ulwur]

Why not just run the wires from the supply cable through the current transformers and connect at the relay. And why a PCB relay? Use a small contactor and attach the cables directly, no need to run the current through the PCB.

[@lishde3]

I was watching someone make bricks and now I am here. You tube is odd sometimes. I like that big yellow rectangle

[@greggleswong]

Bud Industries enclosures have mind-blowing value!

[@Julian-nl7vv]

Why not just use an external contactor?

[@daniellopes3734]

Just a thought. What if you just use the regular wall charger and extend the cord/hard wire it to your street post charger.

[@MichaelDobbins]

I would do just that, if I wanted a one off DIY for just myself. I might even put it on a WiFi breaker to turn it off when I was not using it. But, look deeper into the goals of the project. Simple electrical skills, easy to install. Sharable or publicly available which requires communication with a server to enable/disable access as well as track usage and payment accounts. Mass production.

[@MatthewGarbett]

Why not just use a fan?

[@tkmedia3866]

possible with a fan, but with a fan you need exhaust and inlet. And with that you may need a way to prevent dust and particles from getting inside, filter perhaps. It will use a tiny bit more power, but will it be so little that it is energy star compliant?

[@PrograError]

If it can be passively cooled, it's a better tech. Moving parts breaks.

[@chargeeverywhere]

@@tkmedia3866 Also more concerns with condensation as new air is continually pulled in - in exterior installs.

[@honumoorea873]

Mmm what's the point when there are already many of those that cost near nothing...

[@imfloridano5448]

Insulate those bus bars from insects and other things that can lay across them