New Look 6086 Adjustments, Wrong and Right FBA, Complete Sleeve Tutorial

[@JoyfulStitching]

OMG JOY are you friggin’ kidding me ! I think at 72( me) I can get a bit of a” hard to teach an old smart dog anything” attitude. I HAVE never seen or even had a whiff of the scrunchie sleeve trick. I’m watching at 3:45 am and my husband wasn’t happy when I snorted and woke him to tell him. Love love being shown something that is a game changer at this age!!! Your tutorials are absolutely the best. I wish I knew everything you have tucked away in that head of yours! LOVE LOVE you !!!

[@Joy4650B]

Oh thank you so much. It is a wonderful trick to putting in sleeves.

[@avdm196]

I've also read about it in "Easy Guide to Sewing Tops and T-Shirts, Skirts and Pants" by Lynn MacIntyre and Marcy Tilton,they call it "stay stitching plus" but you understand the technique much better when it is shown and explained by such a good teacher as Joy.

[@marycontryman5496]

I will say it again….you are an excellent teacher!!

[@jenniferseelen1899]

Joy Joy Joy down in my heart, so wonderful to see you again so soon! Thank you for all that you do. I learn so much for you! Thank you so much!

[@jankerslake5813]

Joy, that crimping of the sleeve head was amazing. I’ve never seen that before and it all looks so even and neat. I’ve got to give that a try. Thank you for sharing your skills. 🙏🙏. I do love your vlogs- they always make me smile. 😀

[@dorenekemp710]

The "crimping" for the sleeve is called "ease stitching" because it eases in the fullness of the cap of the sleeve and makes the insertion of the sleeve into the garment body so much easier.

[@Do-U-Know-me00]

I love that gathering tip. I hope when I need it, I'll remember it. lol. Thanks for another great video. I'm all ready for more !!!

[@donnahixon3643]

Thank you for your recent videos. I know you have been really busy but I sure do enjoy every time you post one. 😊😊😊💐💐💐

[@nikkijohnson552]

I marvel at the skills you have to have to make videos, especially tutorials and then edit videos and posting to KZbin ? Many people don’t realize how much time you spend making viewers happy! Bless you for all the effort and usual great results!

[@Joy4650B]

I appreciate that!

[@judymorris214]

Glad to see how you gathered your sleeves.

[@marybogar5981]

Whatever instructions you provide are so appreciated. I always learn something new and I’m grateful for your videos.

[@annescanapico7168]

Joy, I’m so sorry you did all that work and the videos were lost. I can’t imagine how frustrating that would be. I chuckled over your dart error, which I noticed right away, because I made a dart error myself yesterday by cutting on the side and not down the middle. It makes a difference. Thank you for sharing. Yes, we all make mistakes. I’m working on a base pattern for a shirt. Take care, love you

[@bigfamilyaffair]

I SEW enjoyed your video! You had me laughing at the beginning of your video and at the boo-boo part. I love your new blouse, it came out super cute.

[@LJSheffRBLX]

Joy Bernhardt, nice video you deserve more subscribers

[@maryleigh3788]

Hi, just to let you know, i looked on Simplicity and they do still have New Look 6086.. Love watchig your videos.😊😊

[@Redl16]

Jiy I really learn a lot from your videos. Thanks for sharing.😊

[@dimples7334]

Love your tutorials as usual. 🇺🇸✝️🙏

[@sheilastamps853]

Great job Joy. Good information and instructions. Like you new blouse and will agree New Look leaves out some needed instructions. Thanks again for the visit.

[@paulabrown87]

Thankyou for taking the time to teach… love your teaching ❤ 😅

[@EphanyasisOwleyes]

Joy I never thought about doing that maneuver for Gathering Stitch thank you for that tip

[@Angelwool]

Thank you ! Thank you! Joy, I ALWAYS learn so much from you. I greatly appreciate all the time, work and effort you put into your videos. I LOVE them!

[@edelweissquiltingembroider1761]

I went to my father in laws basement and took a bunch of what you use and covered them and use. so he is helping me sew! he passed away and we bought their house. they left all his tools. we find everything we need all the time. i know he is smiling as i use his tools

[@marta77inf]

Ho Joy hips are my dominant fi😢ture. With out hips I am doomed. Its very nice to see you again.

[@judyscicchitano7906]

You are a great teacher Joy THANK YOU!!! 🤗🫂

[@haddiewillsburg1453]

These videos make my day!

[@avdm196]

Joy, whether I learn something new or not, I always enjoy watching you and listening to you.

[@deenayates5254]

Thanks for the sleeve tutorial. I really enjoyed that.

[@joanneblair2087]

You always amaze me! Thank you for,this video.

[@Sheri...]

Thank you so much for finishing your last video here!

[@victoriahannah1633]

I could never get the gathering to hold and now I know why. I don’t think I was holding the threads down. I finished my pants form from Boot strap fashion forms. I was so proud of my self. I was only 1/8 inch off at my high hip & only 1/4 at my low hip. Waist line not so good. I was off 2 inches. So I’m going to have to fix that. Now I can Palmer & Plesh and fit Muslins on my pants form. It was just getting too difficult fitting on myself with bad knees and respiratory difficulties. My pants muslin is turning out great. I do need to put fish eye dart in back to take out bagginess in the tush. I do buy 1/2 inch tape for Palmer &Plesch my patterns. However I don’t buy removable tape. I just turn under edges of regular tape and it’s very easy to remove.

[@dianeroy1378]

Joy thank you so much for this tip. It will make sleeve insertion a breeze! Love your tips and tricks.

[@sibyllolson3237]

Joy, I absolutely adore you. ❤ I have watched your last 2 videos from beginning to end and enjoyed every minute. I am an older seamstress but I always learn something from you. The way you clips curves in the previous video was amazing. I’ve probably seen you do it before but I had just clipped a neckline and was not happy with the results. Next time I will remember your method. The top you made here is one of my favorite patterns. It took me a couple tries to get the French darts to fit properly however. No FBA for me, my upper bust is not much less than full bust. 😂

[@Joy4650B]

I’m so happy you enjoyed the videos.

[@debbiewhite8249]

Thank for the sleeve trick, I will remember that.

[@lynncharlton8824]

Thanks, Joy. Always a pleasure and I just love your tips. Please keep them coming. Xx Lynn from Australia ❤

[@marilynnmcdonald3204]

Joy. That is AMAZING. I’ve always had a challenge with sleeves. I can’t wait to try your way. I’m so excited. Thank you for sharing. 😮

[@cleanqueen75]

Examining room table paper makes great paper to trace off patterns. I get mine from Amazon too. My upper bust is 36 inches. I go my Nancy Zieman’s right size chart where you measure from armhole crease to armhole crease and I’m 13 inches which is a size 10 then I do a FBA. Joy, I too went by where I added the paper and not the original dart line. Thankfully I did a toile so I caught it! Sewing requires a lot of patience! Sometimes I have to get away from it for awhile. My brain gets to hurting! I have no luck with sewing pants or shirts with SFD. I just saw a tutorial using two pencils to sew in a sleeve.

[@Joy4650B]

I am 13 inches too with Nancy's system. I usually start with Size 10 to 14 using my upper bust measurement these days. Indy patterns are different sizing.

[@sewlovemydogs]

Love your sleeve technique, so much less fuss. Thank you 🌹❤️

[@phylliscalvert6190]

Oh with my hard of hearing and the echo in your room i didn't get to enjoy this one. But I'm not quit watching you.. You make my day..your so alive and make me understand things your teaching

[@Joy4650B]

I'm so sorry. Actually, our "new" home has such high ceilings, Jerry and I can't understand each other unless we get close to each other.

[@phylliscalvert6190]

😮

[@bridgetrsews]

Thank you Joy ! A very helpful video , I have learnt a lot , Bridget R

[@EphanyasisOwleyes]

I would love to do a sew along with you and Viv

[@DarHarper-i8o]

How Kind of you Joy, Thank you!

[@EphanyasisOwleyes]

I found the pattern on Amazon and it will be here tomorrow I want to try that pattern

[@jennymason7396]

Excellent tutorial, thank you. You are very good at explaining things. I have learnt lots from your videos. I have the same pattern and may give it a go as it looks lovely made up. Better than the picture on the pattern!

[@edelweissquiltingembroider1761]

I learn so much from your videos!

[@EphanyasisOwleyes]

After that pattern gets here tomorrow that will have to be one of my sewing videos for this week coming up look what you've done I bought another pattern LMAO😂

[@EphanyasisOwleyes]

Hey Joy😊

[@peggydid]

I don't clip the armhole either. Thanks for the great tutorial! Hugs! Peggy

[@phyllishughes4856]

Joy Joy, you didn’t hear me screaming at the iPad that you were doing that FBA wrong? Yes, we all make mistakes. Like I told you on my last SFD pattern I wound up with the back three inches shorter than the front even though I measured the side seams three times.😮 I’m still trying to figure out if I can save that top.😂 I’ve done too much work on it to just toss it. That “scrunching” technique was developed in the last fifteen years of our sewing lives I think. It works so well. I generally only do it from dot to dot instead of from notch to notch because if there is any puckering I want it at the top of my sleeve, not the lower. But then I do at times have problems putting in a sleeve. Maybe that is why. Now to the sewing room to see if I can save my SFD top. I may have just come up with an idea while writing this. Hugs!

[@EphanyasisOwleyes]

No I was taught on some sewing machines that didn't have the sleeve part on the machine to do it different on those it was interesting to learn that when I was like 8 years old

[@EphanyasisOwleyes]

My fabric weights are usually whatever I have available near me at the time😂

[@jodieroundtree488]

Hi Joy! Great video. I kind of like putting in sleeves on the flat. It seems easier for me. Still pin like crazy but I feel like I have a little more control on the flat 🤷🏼 see you next video!

[@nevaolaughlin6866]

Flat sleeves in knits works amazing! Only way I do knit sleeves. Woven for me is hit or miss. But I would try it on your knits.

[@marshagetz6675]

Oh I'm trying that !!

[@redsandrock8073]

Great way to sew in a sleeve ! How many did I do with 2 rows of basting ! 😟 Thank you!😊

[@avdm196]

I watched a lady on her KZbin channel "Running with Scissors," demonstrating Nancy Zieman's 2 pencils ( with rubber at the end), method. One pencil in each hand, with the rubbers on the fabric. I usually measure thecap between the notches, compare to the armhole length beween the notches and note te difference to get an idea how much I need to gather. Then I test on a strip of fabric the sewing settings and the method I think would suit the fabric best. Many ways to achieve a good result. Either method needs some practice for a puckerless result.

[@TraciSeibert]

Which pattern is blue top u have on with side tie

[@Makapida]

Joy, I noticed that the sizes 5, 6,etc have a W… does it stand for wide? Taking into consideration à wide something and in this case it makes sense that the bust measurement is ‘strange’? It must be explained somewhere, on the pattern or her site I suppose… Each time I see you in this incredible wide space that used to be your sewing area, yes I envy it, but also I can imagine how muh you will regret it even though you find space in the new house. All the best from France Esit

[@mrgarner4796]

My fabric weights are 4x4 bags filled with rice.

[@EphanyasisOwleyes]

I have had that problem with my video camera

[@EphanyasisOwleyes]

Actually this video is 1 Hour 4 minutes and 22 seconds long and I watched the whole thing😊

[@bethkrause8645]

Joy, your tutorials are the best! I learn so much about fitting and sewing from you. Thank you for taking the time to do them. There is one question I have. At the beginning you made the comment that you could tell that the slope of the shoulder was off and so you cut out the armhole and lowered it. You kind of lost me and I think I may need to use that altering technique. I have so much trouble with shoulder fit. I'm very small in the shoulders. Usually need to make a size 10 to fit my neck and shoulders, and take out some material to avoid gaping, But, as with my latest make, there is still too much material where the garment would meet the sleeve. Hopefully, this makes sense. I was wondering if the adjustment you referred to (wrong slope to the shoulder) would help that problem.

[@Joy4650B]

You may need to narrow the area of the pattern that goes from center front to your armsceye. (hate that word). There are many more ways to fix a garment. I highly recommend Palmer and Pletsch fitting book “Fit for Every Body”.

[@bethkrause8645]

Got it. Did some research and will do a narrow shoulder adjustment. I didn’t use the word armscyth because I didn’t and still don’t know how to spell it! Too lazy to look it up. Thank you!!!❤

[@avdm196]

Louise Cutting has a KZbin video on adding width and length to the front without an FBA, which is quite easy to do. Have you ever tried it? I have her book "Isn't It Fitting" I bought as an e-book, I like it a lot. I think Palmer & Pletsch advocate pressing the bust dart upwards, not only for support, but also because it saves fabric on the side when trueing the dart.

[@Joy4650B]

Yes, I have watched Louise a lot. She has several ways of doing things. Took a class from her live years ago.

[@Sally-ih6ls]

Don’t think I can do that crimping on a Pfaff with the ADT, won’t run without the ADT Dow and it would be in the way of finger against the foit, I’m gonna give it a look though, looks much easier

[@EphanyasisOwleyes]

I think it's cute

[@LeAnnRN]

I tried that gather/crimp technique a bit ago and it didn't work at all. I'm going to give it another go, because now that YOU showed me, I'm sure it will work.

[@Joy4650B]

Be sure you are using a longer stitch. I use 4.0.

[@lindastevenson8482]

Love, Love, Love your videos! I have purchased two Newlook patterns and I don't see the bust point marked on either one of them. How do you know whether the bust point is high, low or where or do you assume it is one inch below the armhole.

[@Joy4650B]

Follow the center of the dart ON THE PATTERN up about an inch or two. That will be the PATTERN bust point. YOUR bust point is where you find it holding the paper pattern up to your body.

[@Loral-op4tz]

Can you use alcohol to clean your rulers

[@Joy4650B]

Yes, I do use alcohol to clean my rulers HOWEVER, the alcohol may remove the marks on the ruler. I only clean the ink off the sides of the rulers.

[@Loral-op4tz]

That is so good to know thank you for getting back your me Loral

[@nikkijohnson552]

Joy, pls tell me name/location of your suggestion for me to ask about purchasing Bernina brand bobbins for the 730 Record and a storage case for that size bobbins. Mine is an old Bernina and sews beautifully….

[@nikkijohnson552]

Joy, thanks for the heart but I asked if you can suggest where to get Bernina bobbins for a 730 record machine.

[@TinyTalkyTina]

Hello are you doing the edits sitar valy ranch quilt along

[@Joy4650B]

No, I am not doing Valley Ranch.

[@Angelwool]

Ive just learned a possible new way of doing a broad back adjustent and that is just going up a size for the back of the pattern only, not the front. Please share your thoughts on this. Ive not tried it yet, Im curious to know your thoughts first. Ty

[@Joy4650B]

Yes. I just saw a lady on KZbin do that for herself. We can be several different sizes for sure. I don't have a broad back. I have a round back. They are different.

[@Angelwool]

@@Joy4650B I think I'm going to try it and then taper down a size at the waist. We can only try right. Ty Joy. Have a blessed day.

[@GK-vt4ux]

LOL, I stopped working on my Silhouette pattern because I am thinking the same WHAT 4" diff for 5 to 6....Sorry I gave up

[@ebudny7]

Please tell me where or provide a link to those nuts you use as pattern weights. Btw I enjoy your personality!

[@Joy4650B]

I buy the nuts at Ace Hardware. I have never found them anywhere else. They have always been on the bottom shelf in boxes. You will have to ask.

[@ebudny7]

@@Joy4650Bthanks so much

[@janegilson1886]

Could the W be for wide fabric? I know, that might be a ridiculous thought but ... ? That's too bad you lost all that video when the battery died.

[@darbysusan]

The W means women or plus size.

[@janegilson1886]

@@darbysusan why would woman's or plus size require less fabric?

[@Joy4650B]

Someone said the sleeves are bigger. The regular sleeves are always too big for me. You just have to figure every pattern out for itself.

[@EphanyasisOwleyes]

No need to apologize these things to happen

[@edelweissquiltingembroider1761]

i see a gift idea to buy yourself (modern camera, battery or cord to laptop while filming capture everything to the cloud immediately so you don't lose clips.

[@EphanyasisOwleyes]

One thing I can't stand is when and you might agree with me on this is when people cut the dirty out of their pattern and then sew it together then they have no room for any kind of adjustments and I think it's ridiculous that some people out there that say that they do high-end fashion just don't get when their way of doing something goes completely wrong

[@Joy4650B]

"cut the dirty out of their pattern". I don't know what you are referring to Char.

[@marta77inf]

I am so sorry.

[@marta77inf]

out you losing your recording

[@EphanyasisOwleyes]

Is that why Philly does not like Peggy😂

[@Joy4650B]

She can't stand her. LOL. Not personally -- but her patterns.

[@EphanyasisOwleyes]

​@@Joy4650B😂 sometime I would like to try a Peggy sagers pattern

[@edelweissquiltingembroider1761]

dont get rid of any of your patterns. joann fabrics or hobby lobby don't due the sale on patterns. they are all $13-15 now! Crazy. Miss the$1.99 sales

[@Joy4650B]

You can get them on sale online. Maybe $3.99, but that is a whole lot better than $13.