Nikon Zf - Auto ISO Explained - PLUS Highlight Warning in Photo Mode!

Auto ISO in the Nikon Zf is not intuitive. However, once you have it dialed in, it's quite good. Maybe even the best implementation. In addition, you can upload a custom picture profile that allows you to essentially see highlight warning in photo mode. It's not a perfect solution, but if you shoot RAW, it's good enough.
Link to highlight picture profile: drive.google.com/drive/folder...
Link to DP Review discussion with installation instructions: www.dpreview.com/forums/threa...

[@AndreiDimaReviews]

It seems you are finally enjoying a retro-looking camera. Nice video!

[@RandumbTech]

I am! Just right mix for me between digital and analog.

[@wolfgangwhyte5571]

The algorithm thought I might enjoy your channel. It was right 😊

[@RandumbTech]

Glad to hear it - and welcome to the community!

[@photographydiscourse1185]

Interesting way to do the ISO - I'll try it out :) -PD

[@RandumbTech]

Go for it! It makes it so easy to dial in exactly what you want.

[@fredericd.5621]

What you describe with Auto Iso is only working in M and S mode... In Aperture Priority mode (A) and P mode, with the way you set Auto Iso Menu, if the dial is set higher than the menu maximum, the ISO will be fixed at the higher dial value...

[@RandumbTech]

Thx for the helpful info! As I mentioned in the video, I only shoot the Zf in manual mode so was not aware of those limitations in other modes.

[@user-jl4gx3xd4f]

Instead of programming video button to go to top menu item, I just programmed it to act as standard Nikon ISO button (ISO Sensitivity). When pressed, I use front command dial to activate Auto ISO, and the back command dial to change ISO value. I keep the top dial in the "C" mode. Also, on this camera I do not limit ISO range, since it's fantastic in low light shooting. That way, auto ISO works as needed in any PSAM mode. On the other hand, when I want to enjoy shooting in manual mode, then it's manual all the way.

[@RandumbTech]

That's the great thing about the Zf is you can customize to whatever works best for you. Thanks for sharing your set up!

[@stavros.fourfourianakis]

@@RandumbTech I am mostly using Aperture Priority. On Aperture Priority I really love the implementation. You set on the ISO Menu the top ISO, let's say you set it at 6400. So, if you set the dial to any value below 6400, then this value becomes the lower possible Auto-ISO speed (let's say you choose 800, then the possible auto-ISO values become 800-6400). If you set the dial above 6400 then it ignores the Auto-ISO and set the chosen valeu as your ISO.

[@lorseyjones4807]

Thank You

[@RandumbTech]

You're welcome!

[@Arzenteart]

Thanks for the ISO issue I reprogrammed the video button, and much easier...; your shoots look like they're from Brookline, MA

[@RandumbTech]

Glad it helped! Brookline is indeed not far from here. There are so many old victorian homes in the are. Ours was built in 1890 and full of quirky features that you would never find in a home today.

[@user-be3nj6fh2p]

Thank you for the informative video and guide on Auto iso, looking into this ZF model going into Full frame eventually, just confirming once you turn the Auto sensitivity to on in the menu, how does the ISO dial on top play a role if any? or does it is ned to be set to "C"? it seems a bit convoluted to me, the Fuji system I use currently simply has an Auto setting on the dial> its super easy to switch back and forth.

[@RandumbTech]

I sold the camera about a month ago and regretfully cannot remember. It was a bit complicated to figure out but with a little trial and error and should be easy enough to get it sorted. Which I could be more helpful - good luck!

[@christopherodonnell4199]

Which external video monitor did you use to record the EVF of the ZF? I haven't had any luck getting my ZF to record on my Ninja V and your video gave me hope that it might yet be possible. Thanks!

[@RandumbTech]

I used the HDMI out into my ATEM mini ISO. Not sure what the camera HDMI settings were but it seemed to work fine. I wish it were a full size HDMI, but I guess we can’t have it all. 🤣

[@Quidisi]

Coming from a film background, I've learned how amazing the real-time histogram is. Anyone have any thoughts regarding histogram vs highlight-warning? Is one method significantly better than the other?? Thanks.

[@RandumbTech]

The challenge with the histogram is that it can be difficult to see if your image has a light background. I find the highlight warning works no matter what the scene. Personal preference I suppose.

[@scotttucker9613]

I'm losing my mind trying to understand my ZF. Your method and menu setup works perfectly fine in M mode...the camera always tries to prioritize base ISO (or the lowest ISO to get metering to EC 0) where it can. However, this all falls apart in Aperture Priority mode (A). As you increase the ISO dial to set the "max ISO", the ISO starts to drift higher than base, all while the shutter speed climbs and climbs and climbs until it gets to 1/8000. The issue is, by time this happens, the camera is picking around ISO 500 with a shutter speed of 1/8000 instead of using base ISO and a more reasonable shutter speed that is within the set limits. Do you see this behavior too? It's kind of hard to explain, apologies. I am using matrix metering as an aside. This strange A mode behavior disappears if I set the dial to C.

[@RandumbTech]

Unfortunately, I sold the camera so can't recreate the situation your having. However, I can say that in most cameras, when you are shooting in some mode other than "M", the camera will go below the threshold you set to achieve the correct exposure. It's best to stick to Manual mode with Auto ISO in most situations. You can always clean up a High ISO image, but you can't recover a blurry image because the shutter speed was too slow.

[@scotttucker9613]

@@RandumbTech I appreciate the reply! The frustrating part about the ZF is that Auto ISO is drop dead simple on the Z8 and Z9 in any mode and work "correctly" where it ALWAYS prioritizes base ISO, or as close to it, as it can muster including Av and Tv modes. I suspect Nikon either has a bug here on the ZF, or there is a hidden methodology they didn't adequately explain going on, but simply having the camera in aperture priority shouldn't bind the ISO to the dial setting in A mode. I made a short video demonstrating it, not that you'd probably have much interest not having the camera anymore...just a weird one! Thanks for this video regardless, it was a good watch. Here's my demo of the issue: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gZeUpmZ-iNuKZtU

[@kentjoosten8149]

I use the Auto ISO in this way all the time (M exposure). The only glitch I have found is that ISO bracketing does not work correctly with these settings. For example, if you want to shoot a three-exposure ISO bracketing burst, it will shoot the under- and correct exposure, but will not shoot the overexposure (it repeats the correct exposure). This seems like a firmware error to me. If I set up the Auto ISO in a more traditional mode (max ISO in menu, dial used for minimum ISO) bracketing works correctly.

[@RandumbTech]

Good tip! I don't use ISO bracketing so not too familiar with it's capabilities. Hopefully Nikon will address with firmware update.

[@kevindickinson1541]

Hi. I have downloaded the Highlight Warning into C1.I usually use Flat or Neutral Profile. Do you know what profile the image gets on top of the Highlight Warning one. It looks like you can't set both.

[@RandumbTech]

Unfortunately, you can't use any other profile if using the highlight warning one. Also, DO NOT shoot JPG only as those images will have the overexposed black areas baked into the final image. Still seems a bit silly that Nikon doesn't offer the highlight "blinkies" as an option.

[@nikcname]

Hi, Just wondering which adapter you use to mount sony e lens to the ZF? any glitch by doing so?

[@RandumbTech]

It's the Megadap ETZ21 Pro. It works flawlessly. I'm working on a video that shows how well it works. The only issue with it is that you cannot turn on in-camera lens profile corrections for non-native lenses. There are MANY Sony lenses that are not good optically and rely heavily on software corrections. As a result, you can get some heavy vignetting and distortion. Some are better than others obviously. It's not a problem for stills if you shoot in RAW because you can easily correct them in post, but for video, it can be troublesome.

[@michaelv5837]

Can you please explain how to setup the hightlight warning in more detail. I cant seem to find the pure white mentioned.

[@RandumbTech]

I left a couple of links in the description. Were you able to find them there? The instructions are in the discussion thread on dp review.

[@GeorgeKowalski135]

Download the file from the link shown and save it to your Nikon Zf SD card. Insert your SD card back into your Nikon. Go to your 'MENU" then 'Photo Shooting Menu' and then to the 'Manage Picture Control'. Select 'Load and Save' then 'Copy to Camera'. Your file will be shown and the press the 'OK' button. If you get the opportunity to change its name, do so to something you can remember. To use the picture file, go to your 'MENU" then 'Photo Shooting Menu' and then to the 'Set Picture Control' setting. Scroll down to the bottom of the menu and if you have not set any other picture controls it should be as you named it, at the bottom under C-1.

[@vikdaddy]

You look like Truman's fake best friend in The Truman Show

[@RandumbTech]

🤣🤣 I kinda do!! Great movie - sometimes I feel like we are living it. 🙄

[@iwinters3459]

'Promo sm'