NO Cranks No Start! Customer States: New battery! 2003 Ford Ranger 3.0

[@mrk2290]

take 5 minutes to remove the battery, makes it safer and gives you more working room. Had a battery explode early in my career/ lesson learned

[@dyer2cycle]

..yep, and those cheapo "economy power"-type batteries are the worst for giving off gasses....

[@ilovebutterstuff]

I was thinking the exact same thing.

[@lorenzo42p]

blah... I set my battery on fire cleaning it with contact cleaner, which I found is flammable. never had or seen an explosion though. the way I understand it, the battery gives off hydrogen gas when it is charging or discharging. it's doing neither if it's not connected. flame on, I don't like to be cold.

[@tedwertman2115]

Over the years i seen 2 batteries blow up. Scary as sh*t, you wouldn't believe the carnage that happens.

[@qwaszxpolkmncvb]

I won't even charge one in the car unless I'm felling extremely lazy or I'm running late and just trying to get one started. Fact, batteries explode now and then and without human error. It's best to isolate them from potential collateral damage and human injury. Don't worry about them sitting on concrete or dirt. You don't have to build anything special, just somewhat cool, dry and ventilated.

[@salfrey317]

When soldering flux helps a lot in this area.

[@Gizmo42Rodeo]

Electrical solder is usually flux core, its built in.

[@salfrey317]

@@Gizmo42Rodeo not enough. That's when it's used on electronics and I still use Flux. Clean is your friend when soldering. It also helps the solder flow where it needs to be.

[@oldbatwit5102]

Yep. I would have cleaned the wire with something like Baker's fluid before soldering but..... I would probably not have soldered at all. On those relatively big current DC connections I prefer a physical contact eg. a clamp, to soldering. There are good reasons why car battery cables come with clamps rather than the cheaper option of soldered connectors.

[@jkurl15]

@@salfrey317 on top he could be introducing more issues if his solder job has cold solder joints in it.

[@JeffDeWitt]

@@oldbatwit5102 But he did both.

[@gypsydildopunks7083]

I like people who do the job the best they can do, you took it to the next level. Way to go dude!

[@merrickfritts5928]

As an electrician I don’t see everyone’s problem. I understand the solder could crack but it was still hot enough where the solder wasn’t fully cured yet. That was a fine job

[@andrewadams488]

The biggest problem with crimping after soldering is the solder might Crack, opening a path for corrosion

[@johnh8268]

Hey Ray. Just my 2 cents. As others have said, I would have crimped first and soldered second. Also, considering the battery terminals you used, I would have put a lug on each separate wire and used both bolts on each terminal. This would have allowed you to use smaller lugs that fit the terminal bolts better. Thanks and have a good day.

[@jeffryblackmon4846]

Agreed. Don't disturb a fresh soldered terminal by crimping it! I've been soldering for 70 years. I'd use the heat gun instead of a flame for soldering.

[@zachalles1942]

I agree. I work in industrial controls. We've been told multiple times that tinned wires should NEVER be compressed, crimped, or inserted into terminals because the solder will crack over time, causing a bad connection, arcing, and even fires. I also think there are battery terminals that are designed for ring lugs; those weren't it. Those terminals are designed to clamp the bare wire, hence the groove in the center.

[@ferrumignis]

Absolutely no need for soldering, it just makes the cable more likely to fracture. A correctly made crimp is the best connection you can get.

[@v4vauxhall498]

@@ferrumignis Agree 100%

[@stevem7868-y4l]

I would of done the same John, also red heatshrink on the positive, i would of also removed the battery, more space to crimp and solder, plus no explosions from any escaping Hydrogen

[@TittleCreekOutdoors]

I've been using the ncp2 for a couple years now. Never had an issue with it. I actually had a battery that would corrode constantly, causing starting and running issues with the car. After cleaning up the terminals too many times I finally went and got the little npc2 kit that comes with the fabric washers to help. Haven't had an issue with it since. It really is great stuff.

[@paulhigham9118]

Ray always love your videos but please take this advice from a old auto electrician, don't put a naked flame right next to a battery! You have a great work ethic and I wouldn't like for you to be recovering from acid burns. Like aways have a nice day 😊

[@JohnHill-qo3hb]

Love the torch... clean the wire first, then apply flux, then crimp, then solder. Crimping a soldered joint can fracture the lead/copper bond (ask me how I know) and or squeeze out the solder, thus compromising the connection, but do what you can with what you have.

[@danizweifler6061]

John Hill: "do what you can with what you have"...... = that is the key sentence for me = I do fully agree

[@davidbrogan606]

There is no need to crimp at all. It is best to preload with solder just like he did. Flux might help but he used flux-core which is good enough.

[@squarebodyseth5986]

"do what you can with what you have" does not simply cover it when working on a customers vehicle. This guy is such a hack its not even funny.

[@JohnHill-qo3hb]

@@davidbrogan606 you haven't worked on aircraft, no solder, crimp only mainly because of vibration and temperature change and G forces.

[@davidbrogan606]

@@squarebodyseth5986 Let me guess, you're the only one who knows the correct procedures.

[@frankbiz]

You go the extra mile when you work on cars and trucks. 👍🏻 Awesome work!

[@robpeabo509]

Very true, the source of supply is always a good starting point for electrical issues. The battery moved a bit when you tried getting the positive clamp off the battery. post. It seems it was not or not adequately secured.

[@earlwright9715]

Myself ,being a retired electrician ,I can appreciate your comment! You are so correct sir. I won't however comment on the way he stripped that wire

[@robpeabo509]

@@earlwright9715 I cringed also. I also did not comment on the lugs. Not my place to say. I need to renew my electrical licence. Not because I use it, just because I don't want to let it go yet. It will probably be the last renewal though.

[@miloradpudja1501]

Hey Rey. I'm not mechanic, but I work on cars quite often. I did electrical work in automotive for many years.... Please, Please, do not use hammer on Battery terminals ! You will not notice damage you are doing to terminals immediately, But, You brake seal on terminals, and they start to leak gas out of battery! That's how you got even new battery with oxidized terminals ..... Use tool to pry terminals open enough, so you can slide them over posts easy by hand, and then torque them properly. Keep up good work ! I like your videos. Thumbs up !

[@tfx1184]

Love the overkill on the soldering iron

[@timpsensky5181]

too much is just enough

[@robertstoneking7916]

A torch isn't overkill heavy copper carries your heat off and if you don't have enough heat the insulation melts/burns before the solder melts.

[@miner555]

Didn’t clean wire, solder probably not melted into copper as pliers pulled heat away. Solder also adds resistance. Poor connection actually.

[@dangerhellbender3245]

Impressed with the 650ftlbs. Of torque on those battery connections! Love all your streams.

[@robertsawa3407]

Marine battery clamps have single 5/16 or 3/8 inch studs for this kind of cable ends.

[@BigLisaFan]

Same with many military vehicles.

[@JeffDeWitt]

The new heavy duty cables I've got on my Jeep XJ have the same setup. Makes perfect sense and it's much easier to disconnect the cables when necessary.

[@WastedTalent-]

@@JeffDeWitt Did the same with mine.

[@blackiedekat2612]

Good job of not 'blowing yourself up' Ray!................one of my top10 rules of life - don't blow thyself up! right in front of - don't eat the yellow snow.....................

[@greenhouse3505]

Mate!!! 70k subs already! Feels like only 2 weeks a go I was verbally patting you on the back for hitting 50k. Don't think you have to worry about getting your content formula right. Reckon you've nailed it my friend. ;)

[@JerikoAsmodeus]

128k now!

[@chrislee6377]

simple job for you ray but your patience and attention to detail is second to none great job

[@mikeburnett7028]

I used to work for a large electric utility for 20 years. As you would never fill a new filter with oil, you SHOULD wire brush bare wires to a shine after stripping due to corrosion already under the insulation so connection will last.

[@justinhall5102]

Just curious. Why, what would happen

[@aaronbritt2025]

@@justinhall5102 Corrosion adds resistance. Resistance is bad.

[@justinhall5102]

@@aaronbritt2025 nevermind I can't read. I thought it said you should not brush the wires to a shine.

[@ganzonomy]

@@aaronbritt2025 and futile

[@gerrynightingale9045]

*I see plenty of 'shiny-copper' from the newly-exposed wiring* *If he suspected 'alkalization' down into the wiring, then it's time for a new cable for pos. & neg. instead of 'guess how far down it goes' in terms of crud* *At least that's what I would do*

[@CalculatedRiskAK]

This is just me, but I always put dielectric grease in the connection before I heat shrink it. This helps guard against corrosion, but I can't knock your technique. It was awesome to watch.

[@juniorcampbell8012]

I really appreciate the old school method mix. Improvisation!!

[@freakyflow]

I upgraded my Alt, So i took a trip over to Princess Auto (Canadian version of Harbor Freight) Bought 16 ft of 1/0Awg welding cable And used a few Hammer lugs Shrink tubing And for the final some dielectrical grease.. I removed the old GM side post connectors And used Stainless steel 3/8 x 2-1/2" bolts with 1 washer And 1 lock washer And a nut This way i can add more grounds And power. And have something to really grip on to if i need to get Or give a boost And the bolts are not the strippable kind like the factory ones ...And yes It does that so you do not over tighten And crack the battery ...If you do you should not be handling tools anyways ..

[@janetyeoman1544]

Princess Auto has much more product and bigger stores than the many HF stores I’ve shopped at. Similar pricing when exchange calculated. 👍🇨🇦

[@brucecoleman7412]

My general practice is to replace the entire battery cable whenever possible. I have seen a battery explode because the tech has a cigarette in his hand. It was awful. Before I would ever put a flame anywhere near a battery, I would take the extra couple of minutes and remove the battery. The catastrophe I witnessed has left me extra cautious. I don’t want to be one of those “Famous Last Words “ guys. That’s the ONLY way a clamp on terminal end should ever be used. ANY corrosion at the battery cable wire or post will cause a voltage drop that will result in premature alternator failure from overworking. Good job!

[@weldor111]

Saw the same thing happen, older gentleman was checking his battery for water level and lit his liter and held it over the battery to see. It Blew up.

[@MoreSkulls]

My standard operating procedure is to permanently remove all fuel and electrical systems on all vehicles. I have personally observed my own object of conveyance violently oxidizing at elevated temperatures because those systems were present.

[@unenslaver1333]

I should have read down first. Thank you for your input.

[@silicon212]

quick and steady rule - if you can smell H2S (smells like a rotten egg fart), then do not put a flame anywhere near the battery. If the battery is in good condition and idle, there will not be any hydrogen production. As long as the area is properly ventilated, nothing should go boom. But should you smell sulfur, then by all means keep the flame away.

[@danny117hd]

I would've reused the original connector after a good scraping. Cable replacement I'd have to inspect the other end first.

[@matthewholzinger1042]

I'm in the rust belt so I do use the felt washers with an application of Vaseline. I also apply a small amount to the terminals and clamps. Then after tightened down a liberal amount on top. Been doing this for years. Did this to my Transit Connect in 2016 and still zero corrosion.

[@aaronbritt2025]

Hey Ray, they make single post battery terminals. I would've had your parts guy order those rather than using the "off the cardboard" universals. You went through all of that effort to make up the cables correctly then Jerry Rigged the clamp.

[@madmatt2024]

He also could have ordered one piece crimp/solder on battery terminals. We stock them at the shop I work at.

[@45AMT]

They're called "Marine terminals"

[@patrickbuick5459]

@@45AMT I just got the crimp/solder terminals to get rid of my marine terminals. They just wouldn't stay tight for love nor money (or wrenches and pliers) in my Jeep. Perhaps if I had got rid of the wing nuts and used washers with lock washers, but the terminal change was a cleaner solution for me.

[@billchessell8213]

He needs a wire stripper too. Using a knife, might sell knives, but look at the TIME. Also. a wire stripper will gouge/cut fewer strands. Where strands are creased will create a hinge point that will cause the wire to fail early at that spot. Ray knows this, I’m sure. Clearly he wanted out of this video and would do anything to hurry the job along. I can’t help him with that, except to quit watching so his incentive to work himself to death is quashed.

[@stephenurban9880]

Should have crimped first to give it a good mechanical connection and then soldered to improve electrical connection. They also sell terminals that are made to have lugs connected instead of jury rigging it with ones that aren't made for the job.

[@Dis-Emboweled]

My 93 3.0 ranger was one of the best trucks I ever owned. I wasn't easy on it but I maintained it spectacularly. 280,000 and only one clutch job at 120,000. And that was because the slave cylinder gave out.

[@TheFrenchPug]

They don't make them like that anymore. Good job!

[@daniellloyd2293]

I have a 2000 ranger 3.0 with a with a quarter of a million miles original engine and I just had the transmission and clutch replaced due to a leaky slave cylinder

[@JAMES-KB7TBT]

OK, I have 2 items, a pat on the back and one not so much. Since the corrosion wicked up the cables you should have wire brushed them off, the same goes for the terminals that were cooked. The idea of putting solder in first was a new one for me, I have been doing this stuff all of my very long life and I was taught something. As a quick cheep fix without dong a cable job it is fine. I would have made a different choice for the batt connectors, on the bonus side it is a versatile connection.

[@davidbrogan606]

While you're not wrong, I think he did just right for this application on an old truck. This repair will last the life of the truck.

[@magornmcgoogle]

I think it is great how you show ways to get the job done without the perfect tool and the parts you have available. Out of the box thinking is a lost art these days.

[@spider_hoss]

I own a 2000 Danger Ranger with a 3 liter, and this video hits home. Have a problem with corrosion on battery. It’s fixed now but at least I can see how you fixed it.

[@MattsRageFitGarage]

I had to make repair just like that on the negative battery terminal on my 99 grand marquis. I wound up using a marine battery terminal with the single lug connection and replaced the wing nut with a regular nut and washer. Works great if you're going to use a ring terminal like that for a wire end repair. Much better than the universal replacement clamps that you had to use I'd say. I also soldered mine right over the battery with mapp gas and then crimped afterwards...LOL

[@montejones5788]

Ray something to think about about 40 years ago I had to haul a co-worker to the hospital because he was replacing terminals on soldering them in the same manner which you are when the battery exploded he was extremely lucky he didn't lose his eyesight and three vehicles were damaged by battery acid and the initial vehicle by the explosion it took me more than a week to recover from the acid burns down my back side and my back because he was in the bay next to me while I was working when I got covered from the acid from the battery please take 5 minutes and remove the battery from the vehicle before you solder like that all it takes is once and you could be blind for life or worse even though modern batteries are sealed there is still gas escaping from them don't take a chance with your life or the lives of your coworkers I've watched several of your videos you are spot on your a good Tech please don't risk it all

[@rodgermills1496]

What might be helpful would be the marine style post clamps that already have an eyelet lug built in, I use them on my backhoe which has the eyelets on the cables. It makes it a lot easier if you need to take the cables off since you do not have to mess around with post clamps.

[@AnAZPatriot]

Right there with you on the shrink wrap thing. Something very satisfying about that rubber sucking in tight around wires.

[@unclechaz8426]

Now there is a repair that I would never ever want someone to see yet alone write home to mother about for fear that she would kick my butt. That is terrible.

[@RickDominick69]

I like the fine print writing on the battery it says warning gas may be explosive if exposed to flame or spark shaking hands with danger. But using a cutting torch is all good

[@blueovalfan23]

Didn't think about that but doesn't it gas only when charging?

[@riceburner4747]

Okay, I know I'm gonna ruffle some feathers, BUT..... Battery looked loose when u put pos term on. U should have taken battery caps OFF & flamed ur torch ACROSS the cells, not down on cells, ACROSS. This removes ANY gases from battery. If ur blocking the fan, it ain't worth squat. Battery SHOULD have been removed! Not a long process. I've repaired/soldered battery posts, so I KNOW. One coworker was repairing/soldering a battery post on an 8D 12v battery & blew it up. U NEVR hammer on a battery OR terminals (sparks). U use an expansion tool that opens clamps. Love ur videos, ur a young guy, I want u to live long.🖖Not worth short cuts Ray.

[@neilt8790]

Modern batteries don't vent like that, it's not the 1970's.

[@ford6]

Sincet the battery wasn't strapped down he could have also easily removed the battery taking that risk entirely out of the picture. Both literally and figuratively in this case

[@paullanyi516]

I agree with Rice and Ford6 . . Leaving battery in place not a good idea when doing that procedure.

[@accountant02130]

I can see your argument ... I dont want to say is good or bad ... but I would not be making the battery a "work bench" .... just take it out ....

[@gerrynightingale9045]

*Blame the 'Econo Box' battery if there's a 'poor fit' and the batt. has excess 'wiggle room'* *DELIBERATELY 'torching out-gas Hydrogen' is a 'first' for me!* *WHY?!?! risk that in the first instance?* *Just to 'prove a point?'* ( *You only have to be wrong ONCE and the results can be 'instant disaster' for whoever does it, like playing 'Russian Roulette'* )

[@johnbell6956]

The gift that keeps on giving. Cutting back corroded wire 1 inch at a time.

[@robertturner6249]

Man, the easiest thing in the world is to fix battery connections but people are so lazy and clueless it unreal. Good job Rainman

[@Cyruscosmo]

I will second that recomendation. I service a fleet of 22 trucks, 8 cars, and all the power tools and equipment for a company here is Seattle. I have used a similar corrosion inhibitor made by Krylon for about 15 years now and have very little if any terminal, post, wire or battery tray corrosion. The stuff is amazing!

[@donwyoming1936]

It's at this point, ole Don just installs new battery cables. But, I love my heat shrink too.

[@mattbartolovich8228]

I would have put new cables on and been done!

[@RideAcrossTheRiver]

It was fun with the old Taurus wagon to put in Briggs & Stratton heavy-gauge lawn tractor cables: red to power box and black for battery ground to body. Beautifully made with solid crimps and shrink rubber. Skinny Ford cables corroded when vinyl coating fell apart at the ends.

[@richardwernst]

FYI, if you need a large lug for thick wires, you can use a piece of copper pipe! Just flatten one end and drill appropriate hole for attaching to terminal. Now you have a lug.

[@jasonwood7340]

That is brilliant! Thanks for the idea :)

[@thebanjoman1963]

Dated a Girl some 30 years ago who's brother put in a new battery for her. He also stretched the terminals to where it wouldn't get tight. NO PROBLEM..He bent a penny and wedged it in between the terminal and the post, gouging the post and further ruining the clamps. Old Abe did the job proud.. 😀

[@GC-qe8vc]

I love all the comments like: "After 39 years in the military, where I used to solder 57 joints a day, just a quick idea, why didn't you use NASA-certified lug nuts and powerplant-grade solder to make 12 independent connections to the battery? And by the way you should use flux and change all the capacitors like other KZbinrs do!"

[@KuntalGhosh]

Not all comments are wrong. This is the first time i am watching him do something so wrong that even 3rd world mechanics would be in shame. A proper crimp makes better connection than tin solder. If the force is set right the copper strans will turn to a big solid block and there will be no gaps left . Moving the joint right after u done crimping is also a big no no. It can cause cracks and result in arcing.

[@dcolb121]

@@KuntalGhosh Yes, this was really poorly done. I'm also fairly certain you meant to say to not move the joint right after soldering, NOT crimping.

[@jbfpv163]

Ray, please don't take this the wrong way but I would love to show you some of my tips and techniques for soldering. My 2 cents would be to fill the connection half full of solder and tin the connecting wires, then heat the terminal side to bond together. Fresh solder loves to flow together quickly.

[@NemoConsequentae]

Love the hi-tech 'tubeless' wheels on the 'soldering station'! :D

[@scottpowell5583]

Soldering with acetylene is awesome! It's so fast. Today was use what ya got day. Fixed and send it! Cheers Ray

[@inaz1963]

'Clean and tight' is desirable for more than just battery connections.

[@gosmo4504]

Gigity

[@stevenmack9948]

😜

[@johnnymoore931]

I think you could make a video of paint drying and make it interesting. I really enjoy watching your videos and always learn something.

[@DomManInT1]

Here is why you have to at least partially crimp it first - If you add the solder first, your crimp might not actually make physical connection to the copper wire and if for any reason the connection overheats and melts the solder away, the connection becomes loose, increases resistance, and becomes even hotter. But, you do you. Even when that does not include best practices.

[@ronh1752]

I was slightly perturbed when he crimped after soldering, because I was thinking that if the solder wasn't still liquid, not he's mashed up the sold solder into bits, introducing air passages and sort negating any benefit you would gain from soldering in the first place. IMHO

[@richardwernst]

Yup, crimping first would have been preferable

[@bullypopful]

You're allowed to teach without sounding like a dick at the end

[@gerrynightingale9045]

*He wants to fill all the voids w/solder and if the opening was too much, I'm not seeing it because those 'fresh ends' seemed pretty 'snug' from the amount of torque he was using to 'seat the fixture down'* ________ *The kind of 'electrical over-heat' you're talking about would only occur from a 'complete dead short' that would almost certainly destroy the vehicle from fire* ( *He did a 'voltage check' on the dash and a meter both and if there was some poor connection, he'd see it and 'feel the heat' from the pos. terminal as well* ) ________ *You're 'making something out of nothing' and that's just plain 'trolling'*

[@DomManInT1]

@@bullypopful Right. But one of my loose ends is a dick. LOL

[@r.fortner4661]

heat shrink is fantastically magical and hypnotizing!

[@mikecarlin3396]

I would use a single post battery terminal connector. Never have a flame around a wet cell battery as the battery may have hydrogen gas around it and it the battery could explode.

[@jamesu]

I usually just pull the battery if I am going to solder terminals and I also prefer the single post terminals unless there is a specific need.

[@hiscifi2986]

The battery doesn't just have hydrogen. It has 2 parts hydrogen and one part Oxygen, the exact proportions to be explosive.

[@dyer2cycle]

@Gormen Freeman ..those cheapo "economy" type batteries(like this one) are the worst to gas....

[@Torrestorres2624]

Ray, you had me at “torch.”

[@edwardberwind8544]

Ray, JMO. I would never use a torch near a battery. I know it's supposed to be a sealed unit but any trace of escaping gas and you are risking an explosion, big time..

[@dyer2cycle]

..yeah..I was thinking the same thing...I'm not exactly a safety nut, but I wouldn't have done that...

[@sockmonkey3393]

All batteries discharge explosive gas. Using that torch on top of that battery was super dumb.

[@davidbrogan606]

No. You don't understand what causes an explosion. The air has to be still and the battery has to be working. Just sitting there it is not producing hydrogen. The fan blowing is good enough even if it were being charged.

[@davidbrogan606]

@@sockmonkey3393 No, you lack understanding.

[@sockmonkey3393]

I lack understanding that all batteries are either charging or discharging and therefore always creating explosive gases. Ive seen batteries explode just because it didnt doesnt mean he shouldnt be doing it.

[@thomasdesmond2248]

A tip when heat shrinking to wires together. I like to melt a hot glue in to the end with two wires. Helps keep moisture out. God bless

[@thatsfunny7729]

At that point, why not just use marine shrink wrap?

[@etherealbolweevil6268]

Back in the '80s, an Automobile Association (UK) roadside recovery mechanic told me that anytime he was called out to an American car broken down, it was the battery.

[@stevenmack9948]

I work for the AA & Green flag & a lot of the American cars are small family cars or 4×4's, a lit are built in South America or Eastern Europe & are generally unreliable, only Ford make good cars & vans.

[@stevenmack9948]

A lot had changed since the 80's & when it comes to car build quality its nothing good, Only Ford can hold their head high.

[@paulschlobohm7226]

I like the way you talk yourself thru the procedure to combat boredom. This too I do. Maybe I should make videos. lol

[@nigelcox1451]

I was a little worried with the flame above the battery, but then, if it had gone wrong, we probably would not have been watching the video. I've seen the top lift off a battery, when a clown refused to put his cigarette out when collecting one that had been on charge. Luckily the top lifted off in one piece, hit him in the face, shielded him from the acid that followed. I appreciate the theory of not charging/discharging, and with fans running, but I think out of fear, I'd have lifted the battery out. Then tripped over it. I'm also surprised the manufacturer gave you enough excess cable to be able to chop some off and it still reach.

[@Flowtester1]

I was thinking the same thing. I had an auto mechanics teacher tell me he had seen two batteries in 20 years blow up and he didn’t want to see it again. He said it’s pretty violent when they blow up. I’ve never seen it.

[@nigelcox1451]

@@Flowtester1 You do not want to be nearby when it happens, acid goes every direction, and quite a long way. My brother blew one up in his kitchen. Left it on charge overnight, found bits embedded in the ceiling next morning, including bits of the electronic charger he'd left on top of the battery. When manufacturers supply the shortest cables on anything electrical, but the battery leads on a charger are quite long, there's a reason.

[@duanebuck193]

I have a Class A RV with 4-6 volt batteries that I use the terminal spray on - the difference is well worth the mess that the spray creates in keeping corrosion and buildup off the terminals of it. I made two pieces of plastic to slide under the terminal ends so that the spray isn't all over the top of the battery as well.

[@darrenashley126]

I will say that I finally have something that I don't agree on. I to have a lot of experience and I found that tapping on battery terminals to be a no no due to the fact that I found that it can loosen the seal and acid makes it's way up the terminal and the battery fails sooner. Here in Australia we don't have inspection caps like we did in the old days, so we can't service them. And yes you made me cringe when you used a flame so close but you can smell it and I can't. I do enjoy watching but maybe cleaning the terminal would be a better Idea by shaving a little off to fit?

[@safetyboots2642]

Interesting point. Never woulda thought they would be so fragile to love taps.

[@neilt8790]

I've been tapping battery terminals on for 35 years, never had a faliure.

[@randyarock]

Especially with a cheap-o battery like the one here.

[@mitchstaff8281]

Why do people from Australia always mention where they are from? It's not like you have anything to be proud of as your country succumbs to a medical tyranny. Tapping a battery terminal is nothing compared to your collective cowardice.

[@DougHinVA]

@@neilt8790 good for you. does that make it accurate and true?

[@manlyotool1165]

In today’s episode we see Ray not just shaking hands with danger but, giving danger a big hug.

[@madmatt2024]

I don't know what you have them available to you at your shop but at mine we have crimp/solder on battery terminals. Those would have been far more ideal in this situation than ring terminals and clamp on universal battery terminals. Even a single stud battery terminal would have look more professional. Either way, you have to work with what you've got.

[@dyer2cycle]

..yes, what he did looks like it will work alright, but it doesn't look professional..I would have used either the crimp-on battery terminals, or just replaced the battery cables....

[@jamesbrown1177]

That's cutting torch not torch for sording

[@Mazda626gtturbo]

Dipping the wires in some flux would clean up the connection a lot better. A Big tip is if that you can stretch the heat shrink a bit by putting it over a needle nose pliers and pulling the Handles apart.

[@joemuncie9187]

I always tin all the components separately, then join them together with more heat.

[@lorenzo42p]

helps to ensure you don't end up with a dry solder joint. same helps with glues too

[@davidbrogan606]

That's a fine way to do it but the way he did it is not wrong and it will never have to be replaced.

[@guuuu666]

I like to melt the solder wire inside the terminal with propane and quickly dunk the cable until it cools and holds.

[@fonso1128]

Older Toyota top post terminals w/ wing nut would been best for this repair.

[@lesterfougere6923]

Wow,nice job Rainman. Often overlooked but so important,Lester from Canada

[@andrewmtarbell]

I wouldn't use it for terminals, but I'm sure you would come across a reason at some point. But have you heard of marine shrink wrap? Has epoxy inside that melts when you shrink it. Makes it waterproof and a lot stronger of a join.

[@RainmanRaysRepairs]

Oh yea, I love it

[@JerikoAsmodeus]

I do quite enjoy your videos. The way you explain what and why and make jokes about it all reminds me of when I was a kid watching my dad and grandpa. So yeah, thanks for that 😊

[@michaelvalcourt9978]

Open flame above the battery? Yikes!

[@an04ker]

Which is perfectly fine. I gather you’ve never seen a traction battery been carbon rod soldered?

[@RyyFoo]

@@an04ker nope

[@johnhenryholiday4964]

Wow... Ray has the largest soldering iron in Florida.... ;) You motivated me to go clean my terminals.... they look like crap and winter is heading our direction in idaho.....

[@ralfie8801]

I gotta ask: Is there a reason you solder a lug on the cables and then bolt the lug to another one of those terminals? Just curious about it because you can get solder on battery terminals that are metal instead of lead and you can eliminate 1 connection on each cable. I’m thinking less connections = more reliability.

[@tuba7084]

I was thinking the exact same thing. I keep a few different sizes of pos. and neg. solder battery terminals in stock. If I remember correctly, they weren’t too bad on price either.

[@ralfie8801]

tuba7084 Not a sponsor as Eric O. would say, but I get them at NAPA and they're relatively inexpensive for what you get compared to the common lead terminals. You just have to make sure you get the ones from the boxes on the back room shelves. If you get them or the battery terminal replacement bolts from the lazy Susan peg board in the front of the store, they're a lesser quality product and are more expensive.

[@tuba7084]

@@ralfie8801 I purchase mine from a wholesaler online. I also keep the brass ring terminals like Ray used for bolting to starter, chassis ground, or group 31 stud post batteries. I like my battery cables to look factory like and be made with quality workmanship that will last for years. I’m sorry, but if I saw that type of repair made to my vehicle that I used my hard earned cash to pay for, I would not be happy. The normal vibrations and bumps and rattles that a vehicle encounters daily could cause those terminals to come loose and resulting a no start situation and a comeback with an angry customer. Not worth the headache!

[@ralfie8801]

tuba7084 Well I guess the kicker is that the vehicle arrived with the cables pinched in the same exact terminals, which I would never use on anything. So chances are the owner will never say a word about it since he either put the original ones on, or paid someone else to do it and didn't care. From the sound of it, neither of us would accept a repair like this one, but it's still a better connection than what it showed up with. I'm just of the opinion that if I'm making new or repairing old battery cables with new hardware, I'm cutting the total number of cable connections down to 4 because it's just more reliable. Edit: I've looked online, but in the end I don't use that many, so I buy a few at a time locally and always have a couple for those emergency weekend farm repairs.

[@brianmegagorgeous]

i'm positive that that is a good job the electrons will flow freely now

[@kjisnot]

I've never seen the new lug soldering before so that was pretty cool. In my years as a shade tree mechanic when i see that green corrosion making it's way up the cable like these had it's probably time to replace the cable since that stuff continues to degrade the cable under the insulation. I wonder if they will last longer by soldering or if the corrosion will win the battle by next year.

[@Posichronic]

Crimp, solder, heat shrink and it will pretty much last forever, especially if you start with marine grade cable.

[@georgeh9662]

If i was working on my personal car, the cables would have been replaced. however if it was someone else's then the cable would stay. Avoid the bitching

[@Peter-pv8xx]

I know some people knocked them but the side terminal design I thought was great, my 97 s10 and my 2001 LeSabre both have them as well as other gm cars I've owned and I've never had a problem with them. They have those new style replacement terminals with accessory and battery connections you simply cut the original wire then insert it into the new terminal and tighten it in with a screw.

[@125sm3]

Got to love the industrial soldering iron 😂

[@taxidude]

It's included in my new book 101 Uses For A Gas Axe! I cover everything from cooking hamburgers to cut price cremations! :)

[@conanharris3472]

I guess he didn't have a propane torch.

[@garyschwabel6053]

So glad there is not a leaky battery next to that torch coboom

[@deathmetalmachine]

I got to give you credit you take some risky chances when it comes to working around cars also I mean you do an amazing job OSHA see these videos they will be having a heart attack right now putting a sailing towards next to a battery for soldering lol

[@neilt8790]

If you think that's dangerous I'm afraid it suggests you're inexperienced.

[@spelunkerd]

A quick way to prove a bad ground wire, anywhere on its course, is to clamp a test light to bat neg post without disconnecting it, put the other test light clamp to engine anywhere. So the test light is measuring current from ground to ground! Crank the starter and watch the light. If the light glows, you've proven voltage drop somewhere in the ground wire. From there you can walk back and do the same test over shorter segments to localize the problem area. More fun than guessing.

[@toadady]

anyone else catch the missing radiator mount bolt? You see how the hood bumpers are painted white? first sign of a collision repair, so somewhere in the corner of a body shop there's a lone bolt missing it's Ranger.

[@yyz4761]

Funny

[@tbozzz8785]

We must rescue it! No bolt or nut left behind, especially for our danger rangers!

[@redactedlogic]

I totally agree with you about the shrink wrap being very satisfying.

[@troyfuller35]

Would have liked to see some diag work before spending an hour replacing terminals, voltage drop would have been cool to see.

[@FixIt1975]

Why? If there's loose connections, why go further?

[@61rampy65]

@@jackpoage5419 My experience is it's either all or nothing, with no in between. On battery terminals that is. Side note: it only takes .25 ohms of resistance to drop voltage from 12 to 1.5v at the starter!

[@paulstott3444]

Those terminal clamps were cr&p in the 50s and 60s, nothing new then. Tip for you, in high humidity climates, smear the battery terminals and the clamps with petroleum jelly, stops oxidiseation and battery acid attacks, worked here in UK back then. Good vids, with nice humour!

[@terrytaylor342]

I’m really surprised that you got away with not wearing that battery

[@Pizzpott]

Wow, that is one well used pair of mole grips you have there Ray. They still did the job though, Have a great day.

[@MDBenson]

Looked legit to me, I mean a smaller propane torch woulda been better but you didn’t have it to hand so you do what ya gotta do! Only minor gripe is you left the oxidation on the copper lugs, but hey, it didn’t really effect anything.

[@toddsonic]

I do that but "if there's room" I use single lug battery terminals typically used for boats and RV applications, I believe they have either 5/16 or 3/8 studs to mount your battery ring terminals to. As always protect the positive posts and make sure the battery is firmly bolted down.

[@jamestamu83]

Love your videos Rainman, but you really scared the sh*t out of me soldering so close to that battery! Hydrogen gas in the battery could have blown you up! Be careful my friend.

[@davidbrogan606]

No, you don't understand how hydrogen is created in a battery. He was perfectly safe.

[@roxanneabbott8424]

Anyone who admits to an error and fixes more better is my kind of man!!!

[@MrBugsier5]

WELL ...THE GOOD ADVISE IS NOT IN THIS VIDEO SADLY.. iTS A HOW NOT TO DO VIDEO IN MY PROFESSIONAL OPINION..

[@chipdayton1625]

You should stick to mechanical repairs, you are really good at them. Electrical? Not so much.

[@johncooper4637]

I have some large cable cutters that shear not smash the wire and work easier than your cutters, too. The solder is electrical so it should have rosin core flux in it. Flux was obvious from the flames! In the future you should try to find some terminals that are designed for ring lugs - they are much better for that kind of wiring job. The ones I got for my motorhome and diesel truck have one bolt on either side. One for the ring terminals and one for the clamping function. Truck shops should have them or, in your neck of the woods, a golf cart shop.

[@jacquelineoldhaver2672]

That said, I have had technicians blow up batteries in my shop. My technique would have been crimp first then solder.

[@N1NJ4K1TT3NNCT]

CRC also makes that battery corrosion prevention spray, and it’s red! We use it at work all the time.

[@Puggy42069]

22:30 I hate it when the circumference of holes are too big for the nuts to handle.

[@darrenashley126]

OCD?? LOL all good in the end.

[@dougbourdo2589]

That's what She said !

[@jim78]

never seen it done this way but looks like it works, i usually put a little dielectric grease in those copper ends to prevent corrosion and the crimp using the crimper made for them then heat shink of course

[@Biffo1262]

Would have been perfect if you had put flux into the connector to allow the soLder to run into the cables. Multicore solder simply doesn't have enough flux for that application.

[@davidbrogan606]

While you are not wrong, that connection will never need to be replaced.

[@letiscafeschoolhouse1114]

The negative terminal end that it came in with is a marine battery terminal. Can tell from what v remains of the protective coating.. BTW with as good as you are why not use crimp-on battery terminals? Then shrink wrap it. Returns cable to almost stock condition. Way better cast is less for parts. Instalation is exactly how you installed the lugs or you. Can crimp them on with a giant pair of stake-ons. Gives you a much better end result.

[@travissmith2211]

Not a "reee", bit it's kinda odd to see so much effort go into soldering lugs on and following up with heat shrink just to see it being bolted to chinzy lead terminals.

[@michaeltaylor7436]

Soldering with a cutting torch ! This took so long, must be a better approach. Brought on a big smile though.