No More Warped Rotors - Raybestos HD Brake Rotors

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I have been having an issue with warped rotors. My 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ has been warping front rotors within 5k miles. I believe it is from my commute which includes a mountain I must go over every day.
For that reason I have decided to give the Raybestos performance rotors a shot. The price was right, but will they work? They are certainly not like any brake rotor I have ever seen before..
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We hope you enjoyed this video and will keep in mind that all information included is intended to be purely academic and in fact is only the opinion of D&E. We are not professionals, nor are we qualified to knight you a professional. D&E want to ensure that anyone modify or fixing their own vehicle does so in a safe manner which leaves the vehicle in a legal, roadworthy state. In short, DON'T BE A MONKEY WITH A TOOL BOX! If you don't know what you are doing, leave it the professionals!

[@mistapikkles]

So what's up with those rotors? Update?

[@Evillt1]

I run these on my 17 mustang...all four corners zero issues!.and I only run hybrid pads!..and it stops on a dime... so glad I found these online!

[@skylarscales9922]

I use the Raybestos police HD rotors and pads on my 05 Tahoe and there the best brake components I’ve used despite the unbelievable amount of dust they produce 💀

[@timtrinkaus7072]

Doug excellent video and I agree on your points on what maybe causing the warping. After 6 years and 70K miles on my 2000 4.7L Limited WJ I’ve had many front brake jobs due to the same warping rotors. I originally had the teves then changed them out to the akebono’s and still had warping issues. I was using ceramic pads and that was causing my problems they create too much heat and my calipers seized. Good thing Pep Boys warrantied my calipers three times lol. Last brake job I did I got the Brembo Brand rotors from Rock Automand a good quality Raybestos semi-metallic pads and it’s been over a years and so far so good. The rotors are holding up well and no issues with these calipers. I was going to bite the bullet and go with mopar rotors to see how they last but so far I don’t need to go that route. I was getting tired of front brake jobs. I’m not hard on my brakes either. I think the WJ brakes like all other brakes on Jeeps of that era were not adequate

[@speedtrapp219d2]

I’ve done about the same on my 16 Chevy Silverado I finally spent some money and went with stop tech and with them they had to be broke in and bedded in with mutable heat cycles there’s a whole ceremony but since then no issues ever and FYI you probably know this but never wanna use old pads on new rotors keep on keeping on brother keep fighting the good fight

[@DEInTheGarage]

Yea, that break in is key. We will likely do a video on that sometime

[@correya.lettsome4702]

Next time you do pads Look into the Raybestos EHT line of pads. Everything I have put them on it has improved the braking performance. Nobody I know has anything good to say about wearever pads especially the ceramic formula in any mountainous areas. Alot of ceramic formula pads don't give consistent friction and people get poor braking or feeling like something is lodged between the pads. WJ's have sucky brakes. Over the years when i hear people complain about ceramic brakes I tell them get the semi metallic pads and that solves their problems.

[@42WallabyWaySydney]

Runout from not cleaning hubs or bad hubs will cause thickness variation on rotors ("warping" as people say) due to uneven pad deposits. Check runout or at the very least clean the hubs. Also those Wearever Silver pads are semi metallic which is the hardest on rotors compared to ceramic or organic, but pad type should not affect causing rotor thickness variation aka "warping"/pulsing

[@brossovitch]

Haven't had a lot of issues on my ZJ with drilled/slotted rotors with carbon/ceramic pads. Extremely budget friendly PowerStop. Going on 2 years, 18k miles. Still tons of life left.

[@charredskeleton]

The rotors are relived. Most people can't wrap thier minds around that, so they say "cooling grooves". For what they're worth the reliefs will work wether they're filled with brake dust or not. Ceramic pads only. Nakamoto ceramic pads and rotors from ebay work fine on a chevy(my xj is long gone:( . All your problems and those pads =you're hanging up. Silicone paste on the glides, glide pins, and mating surfaces between the pads and the clips. Carfully inspect your glide pins and the bores they ride in. Any rust replace the part. Change your brake fluid, it should be clear not amber, not brown, NOT black. Wring out the calipers(c clamp, crack bleeders) every time you change the oil, top off the fluid. If you still have problems after all this replace the calipers. Well maintained brakes save money by the fist full!

[@bijubalakrishnan3780]

Is there a follow up video on this after driving for awhile?

[@brianeidmann5941]

Figure I'd throw it out there. I've been driving DSMs for years and have experienced warped rotor problems on my cars until I switched to EBC brakes with a slotted rotor option from either EBS, Power Slot, or Power Stop and combined them with EBC reds and ATE TYPE 200 Brake Fluid and never looked back. I'd stay away from crossdrilled unless they are forged that way. I replace pads more often, but the pad does not chew through rotors as other high performance pads do and i get similar stopping power with less dust. Slots keep the pad nice and cool and clean when I rally my GVR4. I'd rather change pads over replacing my expensive racing rotors any day. The stopping power of these things is absolutely a dream once they heat up. Now, the reds are not for SUV, so you would need to try the EBC orange extra duty. I haven't used them on my Jeep yet, but they might be worth a try.

[@TheBeardedJeeper]

Those look interesting for sure... if they work it’s not stupid

[@steffytheking]

Hey bud, can I make a suggestion? I recommend, even though they aren’t the cheapest, the powerstop brake pad and rotor kit. The z23 and z26 pads are a carbon fiber ceramic so they run much cooler, stop really good when cold, stop insanely good when hot, are quiet and produce barely any brake dust. Also you just take some time to bed the pads into the rotors, helps them stop better and keeps them from overheating as easy. If you have any questions about anything mechanical, ask away bud. Have a fantastic day, peace.

[@DEInTheGarage]

Thank you. I will give them a try. These are holding up, but next time I will try those

[@steffytheking]

Btw, I did forget to mention they make a HD towing specific bad and rotor combo. I’m currently testing an eBay special drilled/slotted rotor with the z26 pads. I’ll try to remember to comment here with a review off how they last. My guess is even with a lower quality rotor, the extra cooling from the drilled holes and the cooler operation carbon ceramic pads will still give great brake life and performance but we shall see.

[@jonking7345]

@@DEInTheGarage so, 2 years on, what did you decide about these?

[@KJsProjects]

D&E video!?! Heck yes. If these don't work, Powerstop Z36 kit. Just get the pads and rotors unless you need new calipers. They are great on my wife's 16 Explorer and they aren't noisy or dusty. I'm seriously considering them for my JK.

[@DEInTheGarage]

Thanks dude. That will be next on my list if these dont work

[@99jeepxjguy97]

I can vouch for the Z36. Used em on an elcamino first. Now as set on my XJ. Got the calipers too, just cuz of the red powdercoat. ;) Work great. Don't make a mess on the wheels either!

[@danielsimpson8929]

So after two years wanna do an update? How many miles? Did the pads wear quickly? Any pitting or other weird stuff in the grooves?

[@alexhise968]

Usually its not a issue of a warping. Most of the time it a poor bedding procedure and or installation run out. I race so brakes are a consumable for me and we have never warped a rotor and rotor get hot enough to glow.

[@mattd603]

Any updates on how the rotors are doing?

[@SerenoOunce]

*NEVER* use anti-seize on caliper bolts. *MUST* use thread locker. Seen those back out too many times when the silver paste was applied.

[@daveroski]

if you live in rust belt its fine......I have done it for 25 years and never an issues.....

[@smallblockfuelie]

“Pretty mint if you squint “. 😂😂

[@DEInTheGarage]

Far from good, but pretty good from afar..

[@smallblockfuelie]

D&E In The Garage it’s adequate for the project. The same folks mad about the RAM BOXES on your Avalanche May take issues with quality, not the average common Joe with a toolbox.

[@Legoguy1979]

For my European vehicles I just go to fcpeuro. They have a lifetime warranty if everything they sell including fluids and brakes. Meaning when you buy a new part you send in your old one for a full refund, you just have to pay shipping to them. But anyways they import parts from Europe which are Normally made in europe. The rotors I get whether it's the Lr3 (Matilda) the volvos or $500 jetta I get Zimmerman wjich are made in Germany while for pads I'll get Ferodo, pagid, or EBC. Ferodo are Czech Rep. Pagid and EBC are English made.

[@sts.556]

slide pins in the caliper bracket needs cleaned and greased also

[@nissan300ztt]

Any updates on how good these work? Because NAPA uses these rotors and I wanna put them on my Durango.

[@markdixon392]

I had experienced an overheating brake subsystem on one corner of my Avalanche. I thought I solved the problem by changing the caliper (one of 2 pistons did not move freely). However, it was the rubber brake line that failed by swelling on the inside. It did not let the caliper relax when I left the foot off the brake. That was the root cause of the issue, and the hose looked fine from the outside. Perhaps the rubber lines may need inspection on your vehicle. I am not disappointed as the original caliper/hose lasted 270,000 miles and 18 years... half of them in Michigan. Finally, where the fu€# is your torque wrench? As one who has been through product development in the auto industry, fastener torque is pretty important especially on safety systems. Dont mean to be like a dad, but just want you to be safe... (fail, I guess that's what a dad would say too).

[@DEInTheGarage]

Interesting. thanks for sharing!

[@enricopolazzo33]

Raybestos are good rotors for the price.

[@vaughndibble4598]

I find that they work best with ceramic brake pads i run them on a liberty

[@limodxb9177]

I have seen some good rotors at geobrakes.com not sure what kind of you want but they have got some good selection of heavy duty drilled and slotted ones

[@NoWr2Run]

I had the same problem with the 97 Grand. I finally went with NAPA Premium Rotors ( WHAT EVER THAT MEANS ) but the biggest thing was using organic brake pads & " I AM THE ONLY ONE WHO TIGHTENS MY LUG NUTS " NO GORILLA'S WITH AN AIR IMPACT GUN. THAT WILL DEFENITELY WARP YOUR ROTORS, USE A TORQUE WRENCH.

[@DEInTheGarage]

I am right there... I may be a monkey with a toolbox, but i am no gorilla! Never send those lugs home with an impact

[@yankeydoodoodoo]

I'm going to but Brembo for mine!

[@DaveOfAllMasterOfNone]

Just a litttle PSA for ya. There is a safety recall on Harbor Freight jack stands. Spread the word.

[@DEInTheGarage]

Thanks bud. I appreciate it

[@KD0LRG]

I had a Grand Am that would eat a set about every 4 thousand miles or if I had to get on them when on the interstate. Last GM I bought.

[@jeff2363]

Spent two hours under a Jeep the other day working on getting a 247 transfer case. Discovered in the end someone had tried to remove it while it was still on the cross member and stripped three of the bottom bolts. Got some bolt extractors and going back to the pull a part again see if it’s still there and I can get those last three bolts off. My ruby will need breaks soon too so thanks for the videos. Is that an 02 Jeep Grand Cherokee?

[@DEInTheGarage]

Jeez... what a nightmare! Good luck bud!

[@LordBoyd]

They look pretty cool but I do a lot of off-roading in my Silverado so I wouldn't get that style rotor but I think I had a haircut like that in the early 90s

[@DEInTheGarage]

HAHA... Right? Yea, I do not think these would be great for off-road applications

[@GazaKing89]

Thinking about getting these rotors. How have they held up after a year?

[@edwardjenner1381]

Darn. I thought you were going to show us a cool trick with the lug nuts.

[@DEInTheGarage]

Nope, just amateur hour

[@matthewjohnson3090]

I run them. On mine s10 no problems. With sivers

[@tadavis12]

Got you guys a donation for the polar plunge. Good luck with that! And as far as brakes go, I’ve always found that buying good (expensive) rotors and calipers, and mid range pads helps keep the warping away. In my unlicensed professional opinion, pads are cheaper and easier to replace than everything else.

[@DEInTheGarage]

Hey man. That was mighty nice of you. We certainly appreciate it!

[@tadavis12]

I know it’s not much but it’s at least something for the cause

[@DEInTheGarage]

@@tadavis12 nah man. Thought that counts. Every bit help and we REALLY appreciate it. This is our once time of year to try to do something good, you know? Your help means the world

[@kevinthomas6924]

I am about to purchase those rollers tomorrow and the performance brakes I just bought some front brakes and rollers 3 months ago and put it on a 2018 Dodge Charger RT and now they are warped when I slow down from doing 60 the whole front is shaking

[@4411825]

Nice l looking rotors and thinking about eventually getting them on my car.

[@357bullfrog2]

What does a warped rotor feel like ? Is it a pulse in the pedal ? Like it's fighting back at you ?

[@DEInTheGarage]

Yea, you will get a violent pulse in the pedal or something you can feel it in the steering wheel

[@azmrblack]

If those don't help, you might want to look at upgrading to a BBK (Big Brake Kit)

[@gristlevonraben]

What causes rotor warping is over torquing lug nuts. Most tire shops have their torque wrenches set at 80lb or above, but buick and later, others found 40lbs torque was safe and kept the rotors from warping.

[@bman409]

Where did you find this information at?

[@gristlevonraben]

@@bman409 Jeep cherokee forum. During 2000=2010, rotors began warping in jeeps, I looked up why my jeep's rotors kept shaking/vibrating, found the answer in a jeep forum. fixed my problem. My grandmother in law had a buick, who had replaced her rotors twice, and was about to go back to do it again, I told her about mine, she told her mechanic, and two days later, she told me it worked for her. I was surprised because I've never had a lady be able to understand car stuff and relay the info so well, nor a mechanic that was not a jeep guy, ever listen to someone who was not a mechanic, though I worked on and still do, jeeps. rotors are thin, some are just crappy.

[@stefanpuffer]

You put the wrong grease on your guide pins. Use silicon grease aka dielectric grease. The caliper mounting bolts are one time use and new ones need to be torqued.

[@jaysmith5084]

Better parts equal less work in the future 😉 I think WJ's all eat brakes but a good brake rotor and ceramic brake pads seem to help make them last longer . I recommend using a brake lubricant or something like that stays pliable not like that tin man paste 😂 The silver pads don't come with new hardware and you should go up in pad quality and get the new hardware and lube the slider pins every 10,000 miles if needed do to the rust belts we live in .

[@user-jy8dn8td6g]

So do they work

[@snowmeowoutdoors802]

Raybestos rotors are very good quality. On the engineering side drilled and slotted rotors don't perform as well as people think. You want slotted OR drilled, not both. Slots and drills together weaken the integrity of the rotor too much. I've seen D&S rotors crack under normal usage. Slotted rotors are better in my opinion.

[@correya.lettsome4702]

You are right about that. Most forms of motorsports use solid slotted rotors because they are deemed the best. Porsche and AMG basically put Cross drilled rotors on their cars for aesthetics since it looks sportier. I just save my money and purchase solid rotors but depending on the purpose of my vehicle I go for slotted only.

[@travismcvey]

Just an FYI 90% of the time "warped rotors" are not actually warped. What happens is the rotor get hot which pulls material off the pads (same thing happens when you "bed in" new pads). Then when you stop the pad sets in one spot on the rotor, and that material sticks to the rotor creating a high spot of material on the rotor. That high spot then pulsates the brake system, and makes it feel warped. The best way to combat "warped rotors" is to do something to keep the pads from setting in one spot after a hard stop. The best option is to try to not set stopped, but if that's not an option putting the vehicle in park, and taking your foot off the break is better than nothing.

[@DEInTheGarage]

Very interesting. Thank you!

[@lonniebeal6032]

True, some shops refer to them as hot spots. Bigger pads and rotors solved hot spots for me on 2 cars.

[@mercanyinriechert6732]

You need to really put some heat into the rotors just after installation to set them.

[@mercanyinriechert6732]

The grooves are not meant to dissipate heat. They are meant to keep the pad clean by giving a place for the wearing material to go. This allows the pads to wear more evenly. You also need to match brake pads to brake rotors. If you get a cheap rotor which is most likely softer material and an expensive pad. The pad will chew up the rotor. For example, buying a pair of cheapest Duralast rotors and then putting EBC yellow pads on them. You'll chew those rotors up in like 20k miles. I've got a matching pair of Raybestos rotors and pads and they have been on my vehicle for over 100,000 miles.

[@ohsee1346]

What is the name of the main plate on the front of the bellhousing? I bent it taking my engine out, should I bend it back and reuse it, or get a new one? Off topic but I figured I'd ask because you are so knowledgable on XJs.

[@DEInTheGarage]

It sounds like you are referring to the flex plate. I would not recommend trying to bend it back. Maybe try to find a cheap on in a junk yard

[@ohsee1346]

@@DEInTheGarage I don't think it's the flex plate: It is just a flat plate that holds the starter on...

[@DEInTheGarage]

@@ohsee1346 Oh, that is just a cover. You should be fine bending that back as long as it wasnt totally mangled

[@ohsee1346]

@@DEInTheGarage Thanks!

[@kevinjohn6807]

Listen bro I been a mechanic for 20 years and my best advice is for you to head down to autozone and buy the Duralast elite copper free pads it will save that rotor them advanced pads are heavy metallic based after a while even tho they may seem to ware even it turned into a solid glob of metal and fucks up the rotor thank me later plus it’s life time warrantee so you will never pay for pads again

[@vector150]

So how did they end up working out have not seen a video on the outcome.

[@Taino5.0]

Any problems on these?

[@1stzjtruck706]

The pockets of the rotors are there to pull air into the space between the rotors and pads to help pull heat off the pads

[@212x3]

I couldn't find the followup vid to this. So... are they crap or the real deal?

[@kurtnulf3362]

ever try a company called bake performance their made in America I have a set on my 2011 wrangler and after 11k there great with a set of EBC green pads they will stop you on a dime

[@punk86]

I take it that they are still going strong?

[@Shawn-dy8be]

Looking at theses for an Expedition. How are they doing?

[@WildernessPreacher]

How have they held up?

[@zilliver]

Clean the bracket under the hardware, rust will pinch the hardware, this will stuck your pads and you heat your rotors.

[@DEInTheGarage]

Good call bud. Gotta hit that area with a wire brush for sure

[@angelwalker.]

What was the result?

[@DEInTheGarage]

The rotors wore out before they warped. I got a solid 40k on them before swapping them out. Would recommend

[@kykypenn]

You got a update on the rotors?

[@eric49a]

You really need to clean off all the rust build up off your hub before installing a new rotor. It causes some lateral run out and the pad transfers unevenly onto the rotor because the highest part of the lateral runout touches the pads every time in comes around. Then eventually as the pad material keeps transferring unevenly then it turns into a brake pedal vibration. Give that a try when these start shaking 😜

[@eric49a]

Also unevenly torquing your wheel bolts can cause it as well

[@CVPI03]

how the rotors holding up?

[@DEInTheGarage]

so far, so good

[@lifewithlesliecanada]

@@DEInTheGarage no video review after these put on long term. I don’t think I saw it.

[@Erik2582]

Can we get a "broke 🐒 with tool box" window sticker I would buy one for all 3 of my hoopties

[@DEInTheGarage]

Yea bud. We will throw that in the mix for sure! Stay tuned

[@Danny-d]

whats the update on those rotors///

[@mrkultra1655]

👍🏻

[@Ftwentytwopilot]

How did these hold up?

[@lastmanstanding6081]

Is that brake fluid sprayed everywhere?

[@stephencooper5040]

Are they still on there?

[@fishboy3179]

napa adaptive one rotors look the same

[@danhambrick6331]

Don't think you can go wrong with anything fro Raybestos..

[@DEInTheGarage]

Right? These look weird, but that was my thought as well

[@lonwillis783]

Or your brakes are dragging. I had this problem before.

[@DEInTheGarage]

Good call. I lubed my slides and guides pretty well, so hoping that is not an issue

[@Legoguy1979]

@@DEInTheGarage did you check the piston for rust? My 03 hemi with same calipers had rust built up on the piston, even the land rover did.

[@wesley00042]

Yeah, I wondered the same thing. When you held up the used pads, the one on the left looked thinner than the one on the right.

[@dadumdadum5350]

I bet your rotors aren’t warped, I bet your brake pads aren’t bedded properly. If you don’t have an even distribution of pad material on your rotors you’ll get a pulsation that most people think is warped rotors but rarely is. Pull your rotors off and sand or sandblast the pad contact area and throw them back on and go through a proper bedding procedure (google it) and your brakes will be smooth as butter.

[@dadumdadum5350]

Oops. Just noticed this video is 3 years old… anyway, I hope this info helps someone out.

[@jackle842000]

How they hold up since it's been a while?

[@DEInTheGarage]

I have about 10k miles on them and a fair bit of heavy towing and they are holding up great

[@jackle842000]

@@DEInTheGarage thanks for the update. Nice to know. I know I've seemed to have no problems with Rebestos best pro grade stuff. I've used their ball joints and other front end parts many times and feel like they're very good quality so far plus what I really like is when they offer them with the poly boots that don't rot as fast as rubber like the ones from the only other company I'll buy front end parts which is the one that almost every garage uses and swears by. But for me I go for the good joint plus the poly boot if possible.

[@bradymyerion4141]

Awesome comment about them brake squealers man lmao. Nothing but a scam

[@DEInTheGarage]

It really is... nice try!

[@RobHTech]

It's not the rotors that "Warp." Rotors do not warp. It's the pads that are so important.

[@vector150]

go watch engineering explained

[@LifeInElSalvador]

Too much blah blah blah