No Spark Troubleshooting [Mopar Electronic Ignition with Ballast Resistor]

[@kennethtellup9270]

Im in my garage as we speak trying to figure out why my 64 Chrysler Newport that also has the 413 wedge has no start no spark. Out of frustration I took a break and amazingly ran across your tutorial video. A video explaining the how two's on the same engine is mind blowing. lol After a week of stress I finally got my car started so thank you SO SO MUCH

[@ScannerDanner]

Awesome! What was your issue?

[@scamp440collins2]

Awesome Channel,I'm stumped I have a 1971 Scamp 440 ECU controller been thru all your test no spark all test from your video,the negative side of coil not pulsating,when turn over,light dim, but once you release key tries to turn over .any help would be great.thanks

[@fredsalter1915]

That Power Wagon is f-ing sick! I was in love the Simon & Simon Power wagon back in the 80's with the big wooden front bumper! Rock on DAN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@ScannerDanner]

thank you Fred!

[@jaycharger72]

Glad i watched this , one of the best on this subject , helped me out with my 1971 Australian Charger 245 with electronic distibutor .

[@ScannerDanner]

Nice! What did you end up finding?

[@dharley189]

I worked on a 70’s Dodge farm truck last summer. Showed the farmer very weak signal from distributor using my “old”vantage. Moved pickup a little closer and it started. Worn shaft. Then I had to rebuild his carb so it would idle. Farm trucks sit all year till harvest time. A real test for my memory. Always enjoy your videos. Del

[@spelunkerd]

My Dad always told me to never leave a vehicle in run while engine is off. In those days every vehicle had an "AUX" position for the ignition key, which would allow teenagers to get into all kind of trouble while listening to the radio with their girlfriends.

[@matthewodonoghue4123]

I don't know what you're talking about half the time but I find it entertaining and learn a little bit more each time! I hope next time My Intermittent no start Celica stops when I'm at home I have a few more ways to work out whats happening!

[@ScannerDanner]

I have some celica videos with ignition system issues on my sons 94. At least 3 different ones

[@jakefitzgerald4183]

Awesome video! 2 years ago I working on a 440 and customer complaint was engine dies and won’t restart until it sits over night. I found the coil was failing when hot because the ballast resistors were bypassed allowing constant battery voltage in the run position. This video will definitively help the next time!

[@dougkelley1266]

I had a 76 power wagon 440. This video brings back good memories and diags i have all but forgotten

[@Troy_Built]

This video would've been very helpful years ago. I haven't worked on one of this style in 15 years. One of my friends is putting one of the 70's Mopars back together right now so I'll forward it to him.

[@ScannerDanner]

Thank you!

[@nickayivor8432]

Thanks 👍 My teacher ACCOMPLISHED Sir ScannerDanner From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧

[@55azguy]

In the day if we had an ignition problem on these systems we always made / added a ground wire from the module to the body. Hope you and your family had a Great Thanksgiving.

[@jrhageman1]

Love this one!!! Mopar electrical diagnosis, you should make more of these with the Big 3 ,I find Chevy to be easiest to diagnose and Ford to be the most difficult . Thanks Paul for all you do !

[@segundoautomotive]

Love watching videos on 70,80 and 90's vehicles! Great job!

[@mattt4183]

Good vid that covered almost everything. One nasty gotcha on these distributor pickups with vacuum advance is the pickup wiring fatiguing inside the distributor. The one that bit me back in the day was a start stall, kinda like an open ballast resistor but didn't die quite as fast. Pickup ohmed out static but the vacuum advance was opening a break in the wiring.

[@kellismith4329]

Yup, I had the same issue with a few gm vehicles, the wiring inside the cap to the module would break

[@lvsqcsl]

With the exception of the height and color, that could be a Lil' Red Express Truck. I had a customer with a 1978 Chrysler Newport with a 400 engine. It had that lean burn system that was very troublesome. The thing backfired and blew the muffler off and then became a crank/no start. Turns out, the ballast resistor went bad and we were able to replace that and it started. By this time, the owner was fed up and traded the thing for a 1984 Mercury Grand Marquis and he drove that 6 years after that. I think 1978 was when Chrysler had to be bailed out the first time. Great video!

[@rustbucket77]

You make everything understandable! Thanks for your instructions! 😊

[@johnfitzgibbons2161]

Great no spark diagnostic video! You should warn folks of the danger of cranking too much while attempting to start with regards to fuel build up in the intake & exhaust and the possibilities of backfire once spark is established.

[@stationaryenginesworldwide]

You two make the best videos ever! Love how you do the hands on testing step by step ...thanks guys truly enjoyed this one ....old school cool !!

[@ScannerDanner]

Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you

[@Владимир-э6ж9й]

Спасибо.Очень хорошо изложена методика диагностирования системы зажигания.

[@stonksftw]

Hey thanks for the in-depth explanation ended up just being a bad ground on it my dad's been working on this for 2 weeks all it took was him to ask me and this KZbin video to be found

[@ScannerDanner]

Awesome! Glad you were able to find that bad ground using this video.

[@frankjohn4302]

I remember working my dad's 1988 toyota hilux pick up with ballasts,condenser and points set up.timing light and dwell meter were paramount in those days.also I did fry a coil by leaving key on too long.Thanks Danner

[@tracydiller9378]

Great video Paul love that Old School Power Wagon worked on ALOT of them back in the day including A LOT of Breaker Points system.Hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving and a safe one.God Bless!

[@MtnBadger]

A spark gap measurement device with increments of spark gap, as shown here, is just a few dollars but will let you know if you have a weak coil/spark signal and save a lot of headaches. Great video!😊

[@OzFrog48Z]

Those systems were quite reliable in their day except for the dual ballast resister. They would burn out often. I tried mounting a few in an area under the hood that would be cooler, but it didn't help. We suggested to all of our customers that had Chryslers to carry a spare in the glove box in case it left them stranded. Easy enough to change and would usually fix a no start.

[@ChrisTheBmxGuy]

From what I heard its the dual resister system that was an issue. The later single ballast wasn't as bad. Was i told wrong? I keep a spare in the glove box just in case but no issues the last 2 years.

[@Watchyn_Yarwood]

Back in the day, I worked for a trucking company that had a Hot Shot division. We had one old late 70s early 80s Dodge van with a 318 with over 350,000 miles with never a bolt turned on the engine. However, It was never dispatched without two ballast resistors in the glove box! It might run a year on one and next time 30 days. We ran it in all 48 states. The resistor was the only problem we ever had with it. When I left there 16 years later, it was still running.

[@Troy_Built]

I used to carry an extra ballast resistor and control module.

[@Discretesignals]

Wonder if a more modern power resistor with aluminum housing heat sink be an improvement over that ceramic style resistor?

[@Watchyn_Yarwood]

@@Discretesignals Better yet, convert to GM style or a points - condenser distributor.

[@walkingman9171]

Back in the day though, you could easily diagnose the ignition module and pick one up at any part store or even Kmart. (Same for FORD) No vehicle specific or programming required. I'll take it over todays crap anytime. No new vehicles for me.

[@benjudy4406]

Amazing reference video thank you.

[@ScannerDanner]

Glad it was helpful!

[@C_71]

This was a great video! I have a 1978 D150 with a 360LA in it. A wire burned, so I took all of the wires off to the bulkhead and started over. I put an Accel coil and an orange box ICM. It has the black mopar VR and the two wire ballast. After rewiring it, I still have a couple of wires to add one being my electric fuel pump and choke. My battery was at 10 volts, and it would turn over but not start... a pretty weak attempt at starting! Tomorrow, I'm going to take a charged battery and try to turn it over, I'll see if that part changes. After getting the fueling going back to the engine, I'll go thru your flowchart with the test light. I don't really like chasing wires, but getting this truck stayed l started, and running was such an accomplishment... it needed an intake gasket because it was backfiring like crazy!

[@ScannerDanner]

Let me know if you have any questions along the way!

[@realhusky]

Did your learn to speak by watching Bill and Ted? Awesome diag man

[@ScannerDanner]

🤣

[@AcmeRacing]

I learned to keep a ballast resistor and a wrench in the glovebox for my Chrysler Newport with a 400. My buddy kept them in his 318 Plymouth Satellite too. I was getting ready to get two hardier resistors and make my own.

[@danlaabs5090]

Thanks for these videos of the older trucks! Love it! Nice Tin Grill BTW!! Keep these kinds of videos coming please.

[@scironworks]

On a side note, the later years Mopars had a dual pickup distributor. Start and run pickups in it. And the ignition module was a 4 pin. The start coil would fail and the truck would start after cranking and releasing the key. After dealing with that way too many times, I would just cobble a GM H.E.I. distributor together with a Dodge shaft and be done with all that nonsense lol.

[@seanmurray9365]

My problem I literally just fixed on my 75 Powerwagon 440 was it would crank but no start....fuel was good but no spark....last thing i just switched out was the "brainbox" ....unplugged the harness....plugged in a new unit/hooked a good ground to it...hit the key and BOOM! fired right up for the 1st time in a month lol this video helped me out a ton :)

[@ScannerDanner]

If you ever need electrical help on your Tin Grille, I am your guy and I love to help! Just get yourself a good incandescent test light for the future, that way I can walk you through tests okay?

[@seanmurray9365]

@ScannerDanner many thanks....but luckly these old cars and trucks are pretty simple.....if theres fuel but no spark theres only a few things it could be....ballast resistor,voltage regulator,brainbox,coil,distributor, Ignition switch,....it all checked out good and ok....other then the brainbox on fender....got it up and running like a champ again tho:)....I knew it had to be one of those things and did the process of alimentation till I found the culprit...but still figured Id watch your video and see what I could learn from it:) Many thanks :)

[@tonymatlock575]

I've been a mechanic for about 25 years. I enjoy watching your videos somethings you show I've done and know how to do and somethings you show I learn something new from you. I've got a vehicle that's got me totally lost thought maybe you have seen it before or have any idea of something to check that I haven't done. It's an 2006 implala ss 5.3. It has a long crank time at times with first cycle of ignition and will start right up on second ignition cycle. It's got cam counts crank counts and rpm 60psi fuel pressure injector pulse and spark when it doesn't start new cam sensor and new computer wires been checked got power and ground and signals when doesn't start. No codes that would cause a no start. No theft codes. I'm lost on this one for sure

[@ScannerDanner]

Leave your fuel psi gauge hooked up overnight and watch it during that first start the next day

[@tonymatlock575]

@@ScannerDanner fuel pressure is solid 60psi. What I've noticed is if the camshaft stops where the voltage on cam sensor signal wire is high 11v. If I bump the engine over til the cam sensor signal wire is low voltage. 037v. Turn the key off for about 15 seconds to let ecm go to sleep turn key back on the cam sensor signal wire will now have 11v on it instead of the low voltage .037v like it was with key on before turning off. At this time it will not start less you release from crank position to run position then back to crank position with the ignition and it will fire right up like nothing was wrong with it. When it's spinning over and not starting the camshaft counts are counting the camshaft rpms are 0 and not increasing crankshaft counts are counting and rpms are increasing. When you let off from cranking and go back to cranking camshaft counts count and the rpms for the camshaft increase it start right up. Yesterday I made it not start 3 times in a row when putting the camshaft sensor signal on low voltage turn the key off for 15 seconds and try to start it won't start let it stop on the high voltage fire right up every time do tried 4 cam sensors now and a new computer rebuild

[@jameshazelrigg403]

Engine looks clean danner. Hope to see you grow your channel. more regular folks will need to fix their own cars in the future...

[@ScannerDanner]

Thank you!

[@BillKorteland]

Sept 2023, great video, follow all steps and checks, and found no reluctor pulses. Adjusted the spacing much closer and voila car starts immediately

[@ScannerDanner]

Sweet! Glad to help. Nice job on your part

[@SchrodingersBox]

Opening scene reminds me of TRUCKS! With Stacey David back when I was an armchair mechanic lol.

[@ScannerDanner]

🤣 except for the truck fart noise Caleb put in there

[@stuckinmygarage6220]

@27:15. Sometimes, people just like to listen to you! Thank you. Totally agree that Ma Mopar didn't finish designing the ignition module for robustness.

[@mattduke1181]

This is going to help me out a lot on my super bee because now I know what to look for

[@ScannerDanner]

Awesome. If you get stuck, feel free to ask me any questions along the way

[@charleskeenom9481]

Thanks Paul I am working on one right now, thank you

[@davidlnation8159]

Thank you very helpful !!

[@howlinhog]

Years ago, I had a 77 Dodge 4X4 that I used for plowing snow at my transmission shop. One day I for some reason had the key on engine off and there was a strange buzzing sound from under the hood. I get to poking around when I realize that what I'm hearing is my ignition system is going crazy and if I had pulled the coil wire, I would have been bitten like a thousand bald faced hornets all at once. That happened a couple times over the years I owned that truck. I have never seen that happen on any other ignition system.

[@gbrucef]

Magnetic pickup coil is 150-900 ohms to be good. My 78 was intermitent and took 6 years to finally catch it failed. Very informative video.

[@ScannerDanner]

Thank you!

[@2StallGarage]

How did I not know of this channel?!

[@ScannerDanner]

Thanks for the comment! Glad you found me 🙂

[@franksdg125]

Very smart man . Subscribed

[@ScannerDanner]

Thanks and welcome

[@themacgyverinstitute5340]

Nice truck

[@donniejohnson7499]

Great video Paul. I miss the old school stuff. We still have alot of older cars down here in Arkansas . I changed alot of breaker points from people leaving key on burning the points closed .if the points was closed with key on.

[@ourkid2000]

What kind of timeline are we talking about here where starts to become dangerous to the points I wonder?

[@ScannerDanner]

it depends if the points where closed once the engine stops. There is a chance they are open, in which case no damage will occur

[@mattbeckmann1928]

You're the man you get right to the point and I like your common sense definitely going to subscribe and watch you from now on whenever I got Chrysler problems thank you brother

[@ScannerDanner]

Welcome! What are you driving? Just curious

[@4spdragtop]

Thanks for taking the time to make this detailed video! Lots of "us" out there that learn better by visual/audio. Flowchart is a great idea! Altho I'm not in the tin grill gang, I am in the Mopar club, with a 67 cuda, currently chasing elec gremlins lol.

[@ScannerDanner]

I'd be happy to help you my friend. Thank you!

[@4spdragtop]

@@ScannerDanner thanks Dan, I've got a channel with videos of my psychosis lol. It's a granddaughter day today, so chk back later. Surprised theres no Chuck Liddell reference in the video?? Lol

[@ScannerDanner]

@@4spdragtop lol I've heard I look like Chuck Liddell many times. Oh and my name is Paul Danner, but I get "Dan" a lot for obvious reasons. Enjoy your granddaughter day! I am a grandfather as well these days! She is 2 and is amazing! God bless

[@4spdragtop]

@@ScannerDanner Paul, will using a remote push button starter skew the tests in any way?

[@ScannerDanner]

@@4spdragtop You've installed a push button for the crank circuit why? If you were missing power from the ignition switch, the run circuits could be affected too. Also, there is a cranking bypass circuit for the ballast resistor that provide full system voltage to the coil during cranking. That must be working too.

[@davidpohlman6444]

Great video, thanks!

[@TheHandyman1313]

Good info. 👍

[@ScannerDanner]

Glad it was helpful! Thank you!

[@charles1418]

I enjoyed this video and it helped in many ways. Except it still didn't cover my issue with no spark on a 79 dodge D150. You went over everything except the Distributor cap which is where my problem was located. I really feel you should have covered everything from battery to spark plug.

[@ScannerDanner]

The cap itself was your issue? This was about getting good strong spark at the ignition coil itself. I did not cover anything else on the secondary side after the coil intentionally as those are completely separate issues. But point taken, thank you!

[@danielgeng2306]

I can hear Scotty Kilmer saying “you don’t need a big fancy spark testing tool” lol great video Paul hope you and the family had a great thanksgiving!

[@kellismith4329]

Very cool truck

[@dennisthomas4766]

1983 dodge trucks with dual pickup coils in the distributor, if pickup coils are bad make sure the new pickup coils have the same color wires as original or it won't start... The local garage here had one and they gave NAPA the part number on the distributor and Napa sold them a new one and when they went to start it no spark, I ran into this in 1989 on a dodge truck with a 360 engine and bought 2 new pickup coils and put them in and NO SPARK, that's when I called the parts man and said the new ones had gray and black wires and my original ones had orange and black, and when I got the correct Pickup coils the truck started right up... LESSON LEARNED on my part and the Partsman's part....

[@lamontcranston8181]

I cant thank you enough for this video. It’s absolutely fantastic. The electrical system has always baffled me (as I’m not all that knowledgeable about electronics.) And this video is exactly what I was needing. As it turns out I’m also fixing up a 1978 Power wagon. It’s a 440 W200 Club Cab with a/c and a long bed. It’s always been my dream truck (thanks to my dad) and now that I have my own I can’t wait to hear it roar back to life. Happy new year and thanks again for such a great video!

[@ScannerDanner]

Great to hear! Thanks so much! I have another one that will help solidify this for you too kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z5m6mqSOe8dgjq8 hope you like it and will follow the engine build we are about to do with @JAMSIonline

[@Viper81766]

That is a beautiful MoPar brother 😁

[@ScannerDanner]

thank you!

[@douglasshriver52]

yeah mopar stuff, ballast resistor was the weak link on my mopars , as far as a part going bad .

[@stevecummings4345]

Thanks!

[@ScannerDanner]

No problem! Thank you! What was your issue if I may ask?

[@dans_Learning_Curve]

Will be helpful when my '85 Dodge has issues.

[@chrisduran8692]

Youre the man Paul

[@DependableAutoTruck]

great video really enjoyed have tested many but still refreshers are so nice i have one of the old Alltest testers that check each part which make it easy you can even fire the coil

[@Santiago_Ordonez_]

Excelent as always. 👌

[@gturner7]

I wish you were my neighbor!😊 Trying to start this 77 d100 after 20 years.

[@ScannerDanner]

I can help! Make sure you have an incandescent test light in your hand and are willing to do some testing and I can help. If you go on all of the FB pages all you get is a bunch of guesses

[@gturner7]

Im watching you video again and I have 11.4 volts to + and - sides of a new installed coil. You suspect the ECU. Its a new too? Maybe I got a bad one. Heres a quick question… Should the casing of transistor that sticks out of ECU light up a testlight? Mine does. Thanks for responding!

[@ScannerDanner]

@@gturner7 that sounds like a classic bad ground!!

[@ScannerDanner]

@@gturner7 and no, it should not light a test light connected to battery ground

[@gturner7]

Ground is good at ecu housing,fender, firewall and engine. I dont know why its so hard to buy a new ecu in California.

[@jrcortez3366]

You could have said it no better thanks my boy you explain that good appreciate that

[@ScannerDanner]

Glad to help! Thank you

[@johnmullins2798]

Good stuff!

[@cccspokesmanandcofounder]

Next week, seatbelt retractor repair/replacement.

[@ScannerDanner]

haha indeed!

[@DANNYN224]

Nice video Danner any update on 86 Celica project

[@ScannerDanner]

Not yet! We will be starting on it soon

[@erikg.4217]

Hi sir, this is awesome stuff. Could you post a clear, slow rolling video of all the diagrams? Each branch of the flow-chart? Can't get into your site. Thanks!

[@ScannerDanner]

Why can't you get into my site? Email [e-mail] and send us any errors you're seeing or problems your having and I'll help you.

[@normangallant9879]

Good test.

[@Pablo_Automotive]

Great video thanks for share.

[@tomreyn3610]

Brilliant explanation. “Electrics for Dummies”! That crank bypass still supplies Voltage to “ECU” backfed THRU ballast. But. I’ve heard the trigger coil in dist has a .5v bias on it. What do you know about that?

[@ScannerDanner]

I did scope test the pickup coil didn't I? I believe I remember the bias on this but didn't talk about it in this video as the intended audience was different. GM used a 1v bias on there pickups back in the day too. Its just done for noise reasons. To pull the - reference off of battery ground.

[@AndrewReierson-cp7ni]

Very useful video and a beautiful truck. My mopar has spark and starts decent but I'm losing 1 volt from the battery to the high side of the ballast. Wiring is pretty new and tried 2 ignition switches but still losing that volt

[@ScannerDanner]

I believe you won't fix that. Are there any driveability issues you're having?

[@Mr2004MCSS]

Good video. This will be a good reference to look at if I ever have any starting issues with my 70 Monte Carlo with a 396 big block that I removed the points distributor from and installed a Mallory Unilite electronic distributor many years ago. It's been so long ago that I don't even remember how it's hooked up or what components are in the system. I want to think there might be a ballest resister somewhere in the system that I had to install but I'm not sure.

[@richardcranium5839]

that dual ballast is there so you have a start side and a run side. note there is about 5 iderations on mopar electrinic ignitions and the wiring is slightly different on each. the modules had 5 or 7 wires. it was common for one side to go out and it would fire but not run or it would only fire when you let off the key. if it was cranking fast enough it might start but usually not. one side is 5.5 ohm the other is 55. straight battery voltage will kill those ign modules. also the module case needs a good chassis ground as the early ones the case on the switching transister was actually the base connection. that also would kill the modules. if you touched that switching transister and get zapped you have a bad ground.

[@ScannerDanner]

Not in this case my friend, one side of the ballast feeds low voltage to the ICM (5-pin) and the other side is for the ignition coil. I have heard the 4 pin ICM does not have the low voltage input and uses the single ballast. I really can't find a straight answer as to why we feed low voltage on the one leg of the 5 pin design. But in both cases (single or dual ballast) the crank circuit bypasses the ballast on these. Thanks!

[@MrTwisted1977]

I'm sure ur Einsteins great grandson!!

[@brianreese9318]

Sweet ass truck had one I had

[@mikem5475]

What books did you guys like to read to learn more about automotive diag or repair? I just finished popular mechanic's complete car manual and liked it for the simple stuff

[@tonyalvarado4810]

He said the voltage at the coil should be equal on the positive and the negative side. Then he demonstrated that it was not. However, did he say what the problem or faulty part was?

[@ScannerDanner]

It will only be equal if the ICM is not grounding coil negative. Or if your ICM has a bad ground.

[@StationRussification]

Here is a quick test for U .. Disconnect the pick up plate wire & touch the exposed or male side to ground & it will make the coil spark.

[@ScannerDanner]

I have that in here too. Thanks!

[@StationRussification]

Believe it or not that was called the scratch test in a 1970's 'hotline news letter' from Chrysler Training back in the day

[@StationRussification]

... late 70's those cars had a funky egr timer & we used to make car alarms w/them. I miss those days & the vehicles we worked on.

[@garyhelms1889]

I don't know if you'll remember from a year old video but at about minute mark 8:31 you mentioned the voltage on then coil negative was about 1.47 volts and the voltage on the positive was 4.51 volts. That's only a 3.04 voltage drop across the coil. That is about what I'm experiencing on my 69 GTX. That seems to me way too low to run the ignition. Any thoughts on that low voltage. Is that all I need? I'm having hard start issues too. Thanks in advance.

[@ScannerDanner]

Such a weird design right? Yes, these numbers are normal for key on engine off testing. With it running it will be a little different due to charging system voltage and therefore source voltage being higher. The ignition coil is a low ohm coil and will burn up with straight battery voltage. But here is the key with our systems. That voltage is indeed too low during cranking. So they put in a bypass circuit to supply full battery voltage to coil positive during cranking. This will either come from the starter relay like on my 78 or from the ignition switch crank circuit. Make sure coil positive jumps up to around 9v+ during cranking. If it does not, focus here first.

[@mrthedudeman]

Can you do a thorough video of swapping a mopar engine control module to a GM HEI and removing the ballast resustor? Also thoughts on this mod?

[@ScannerDanner]

I'm totally fine with that mod. The fact that the Mopar system energizes the coil primary circuit with just the key on is stupid! But I honestly do not think the GM 4 pin modules are any more reliable. Especially because they would all be made in China these days. As far as a video goes, I won't be doing that mod to mine, so I can't really film it. I can help you if you have any questions though. Of the 4 pins, 2 of them are for the pick up coil and then you would have a direct 12v ignition positive source and coil negative for the other two pins. You can take the ignition positive feed that is being supplied to the ballast and use that as your direct ICM positive. You would also use that same circuit to power coil positive. This would be easier to do with a picture. Post to my forum www.scannerdanner.com an image of what you want to do, along with the suggested diagram and we can talk more about it there. It is free to join my forum. Thank you!

[@JeremyGann-b7h]

So what if your negative terminal on the coil only sparks once? Does not pulse but sparks once when the key is turned on.

[@ScannerDanner]

What would that tell me? Not a lot, but your ignition coil is most likely fine. Finish the tests I showed and tell me what you see. In particular the pick-up coil bypass test and coil + and coil - tests with the test light

[@ALLin-one1]

Yes keep it as free us possible

[@johnnyturbo8460]

HELP!! I have a 1986 Dodge D250 with the 360ci engine. My coil condenser (located on the negative post on the coil going to ground) is bad. The wire has almost completely broken off, but I can't find it anywhere. Part number on it says 4216885. When i do a search on that part number, it says it's the coil condenser. ( It's a small round cylinder looking part with a two prong mount that screws to the intake manifold for ground and the other end has a black wire to coils ground. But it doesn't quite show up anywhere. I tried Rockauto, advanced auto, auto zone, O Rileys, Car quest with no luck. Any idea what the fix it now? Or new part number is?

[@ScannerDanner]

Just seeing this now. Did you get it fixed? I think that was just a noise filter for the radio btw

[@johnnyturbo8460]

@ScannerDanner Yes I did. After I did more online research, I found out what you mentioned to be true. (It's a filter for radio noise). It's not needed, for it to run, and that was my main concern. Thanks for the reply 😁👍

[@bridgettclimmons3536]

@ScannerDanner I have a 1980 Chrysler New Yorker with a 316 engine and I have discovered this on my car BUT my ballast resistor is also connected to this little round metal device by 2 wires coming from the ballast. I can see that my ballast is cracked, so I was wondering if I need to change it and if so, how would I go about it? Most ballast resistors don't look like mine. AND my module don't have the 4 or 5 points. My car has been doing a LOT of backfiring. Someone tried to do a tuneup and crossed wire 2 and 3 and caused a small fire. Also spark plugs seems wet. Pretty sure I need to change my valve gaskets

[@codydouglass242]

Engine is cool

[@ItsJusHP]

🔥

[@spookytreez3402]

Bud I could really use your help.. I have a 65 dart with slant 6 crank no spark

[@ScannerDanner]

Sure! What have you checked so far? Is your 65 system still points or what ignition system do you have?

[@dennisthomas4766]

I did a 1978 Dodge Truck back in 1986 that was a no crank and no lights, found out the alternator gauge in the dash was bad, put a new alternator gauge in the instrument panel and problem solved.... Dodge always had weird wiring setups to make their engines start and run or lights work....

[@Tony-dz6yf]

I have a 1986 W150 Dodge Ram cranks but no start. It sat for about two years it turned on just fine just 3 weeks ago it didn’t turn on. I’ve replaced the gas pump, fuel filter, starter ignition relay still nothing i checked the spark and i do recall having a real weak spark. What else could it be? Please help!

[@ScannerDanner]

86? Is that still a carb or TBI?

[@mtnlinda]

I have a 1983 Dodge 318 engine that I had bored .030 and replaced the timing gears and I bought a performance cam. The cam came in a box that was opened. I am having trouble getting it running. If all 8 cylinders have compression, is the cam the right part?

[@ScannerDanner]

Did it run before?

[@Phantomas2011]

Nice 78 Paul!!! Could it be the FICM…? 😀☝️👊

[@RotoRCol]

why an led test light would burn testing at coil ground and positive?

[@ScannerDanner]

Coil - voltage can be as high as 400v when the magnetic field collapses and this will cook an LED type test light

[@garageassembled4701]

Great video, maybe I missed it. My problem- I can start car when cold. It runs then I shut car off it will have a no spark condition. I have to wait maybe 30 minutes then I can get it to start again after long cranking. When car is on and running it runs and drives just fine. Car is 1975 New Yorker. 440 with dual ballast resistor style. What am I missing? Thanks

[@ScannerDanner]

Do the checks I showed when it is not starting and you have no spark. In particular the ones one coil + and coil - After you have that info I can help, without it, we're just guessing

[@garageassembled4701]

@@ScannerDanner I have watched your episode on this about 4 times and found out what it was. Thank you! Dual ballast resistor was broken, then I moved on and determined the coil was very weak. Also there was a engine ground wire disconnected. Bought car from guy. Told him deliver it and I will buy it. I looked at it previously. Great car, original 31,000 mile New Yorker. Video coming soon. Your diagrams helped a lot.

[@ScannerDanner]

@@garageassembled4701 awesome! Make sure you share a link with me when you get it done!

[@INeeDMyGarageTime]

I have 74 challenger it isn't getting fire to the distributor buy it has power to the coil. I have replaced the coil , ignition mod, resistor, distributor, plugs and wires and still nothing.

[@ScannerDanner]

Do some tests that I've shown and get me some numbers or test light results, then I can help

[@vincentsalerno8675]

1976, 360, key in run around 10v coil + around 4v coil - key off coil +&- same around 12v please help

[@ScannerDanner]

You're reading 12v on your coil with the key off? What problem are you chasing?

[@KennySmith-b8p]

working on a 81 dodge 150 318 no spark with dist and coil installed in engine . Took dist and coil off of truck bench tested and they worked reinstalled checked all connections they were good . but still no spark . this is not the original dodge system . Mechanic by passed dodge system and put in A Performance brand dist and coil . It worked 3 years on truck but wont now .take it off truck and bench test and it works .Any ideas

[@ScannerDanner]

1. What is the set-up of this performance system that was installed? Ballast, no ballast, gm module, Chrysler module like my 78? 2. What does coil + and coil - look like with an old school incandescent test light when connected directly to battery ground, key on engine off and the engine cranking?

[@JohnWick-xz9tc]

how would a old school simpson 260 dial meter work on the pulse checking?

[@ScannerDanner]

Not sure.

[@CoyoteridgeProjects]

Will these testing processes also work for a 79 slant 6. The ignition system looks the same as what is on my 79 Massey swather with a 225 slant 6 . I keep having intermittent no start that's why I'm wondering if they functioned the same. Great videos I've learned alot from them thanks 👍👍👍

[@ScannerDanner]

I'm pretty sure it is! Let me know what you find or if you have any questions.

[@CoyoteridgeProjects]

@ScannerDanner did all the tests for the power side of the module. kept losing power intermittently followed the harness from ignition back to the engine module is mounted on a plate on side of the bell housing. After following the wiring under the floor of the operators platform I found a quick connection on the wire no reason for it but obviously from the factory all the other wiring was continuous except for the power wire from there I could reach the ignition with one hand and reach the connector with the other wiggled it while cranking and away it goes shut it off then wouldn't start wiggled the connection again while cranking and it started turned out the connector was loose and a bit rusty cleaned up and squeezed the connector tighter now have better voltage at end of wire and this is the best this swather has started in a number of years. Thanks again for posting this video on this type of ignition system 👍👍🚜💨💨 Even though this was an older video it still popped up in my feed at an appropriate time lol

[@richardwright4613]

That is a Alternating Current wave for sure but it is not a Sine Wave. Sine Waves are sinusoidal in shape.

[@ScannerDanner]

It makes its own voltage with motion, magnet, and conductor. It is an AC signal, and I've always called that an AC sign wave. Never really thought about it's actual shape as they vary so much from car to car. I don't think it's a significant distinction myself. But I understand wanting to use the correct terms for everything. Been calling an AC signal an AC sign wave for 30 years. Never had a situation where that actually needed to be specified any further. Or that it really mattered. As long as the student understands the principles of the pickup and how it works. Are you the one that said you give me 5 stars if I stopped using that name incorrectly? 😆 I'll try from now on

[@garygardner9677]

Back in the day, a bad ballist resistor would start and die when the key is released. It was a common problem.

[@ScannerDanner]

Yes sir! Because during cranking the ballast is bypassed.