Step-by-Step Guide to Doing an HEI Ignition Conversion on a Mopar

[@toohip1959]

I appreciate how you take the complex and breakout down for us simple folks. Thank You!

[@HardHeadGarage]

Glad I could help. Thanks for watching!

[@michaelmulhall3474]

Good video nice and easy to follow your directions. Thank you.

[@HardHeadGarage]

No problem, glad we could help!

[@charlesvictorrose]

I couldn't have asked for a better video. Explained through a visual, verbal instruction, AND the real physical parts.... My man, you rock! I'm currently swapping a 318/727tf combo into my 74 international 1/2 ton pick-up. Saving this video and subscribing!

[@HardHeadGarage]

@charlesvictorrose thank you for those kind words. I'm glad I could help! Thanks for watching!

[@SypherF]

Finaly got to this video. Wonderfully informative. Your presentation on this was on point hoss. The visual display and model on table is just spot on!

[@cclifton2579]

Excellent video. I'm wanting to remove the lean burn setup off of a 87 dodge. Being a GM guy this is useful and straightforward. Thanks!

[@scottshepherd3668]

Best explanation I've seen on KZbin. I really appreciate it. I was sure to subscribe to your channel.

[@HardHeadGarage]

Thanks, glad we could help! We appreciate you watching and subscribing!

[@VanMcDowell]

Thanks for sharing this helpful video! Great detail and the drawing helps a lot! I'm going to do this on my '70 Roadrunner this week. 👍

[@HardHeadGarage]

Thanks for watching! Glad we could help. Good luck on your Roadrunner!

[@chrisduda1974rr]

awesome explanation, id love to see a side by side comparison with a high power coil

[@HardHeadGarage]

@@chrisduda1974rr i might have to make an updated video on this topic

[@BigBoxDodge2020]

Thanks for the easy to follow description. I'm going to be doing this soon on my 73 W 200 truck. Hope you can make a video on how to bypass the amp meter inside the vehicle?

[@HardHeadGarage]

Thanks for watching! I might do a video covering that when I install the gauges in the Fury.

[@wadehearn6230]

I converted my 74 D200 about 7, 8 years ago. It works very well. I have noticed when starting if it doesn't start immediately, it has to be spun up longer and when you release the key it starts. I can actually run the battery down cranking if I don't release the key at the right time. The only difference in your setup and mine will be a relay I added to give it full 12V when cranking. When the key is released the 12V is switched to the same wire it runs on. This setup worked fine when I first put it on. I have changed the relay a few times without any changes in results. I made a wrecker out of this truck about 30 years ago and put a rebuilt short block in it about the same time. And struggled with wiring opportunities (as most mopar stuff had back then) until I made this conversation. I've pretty much rewired it any put in aftermarket fuse panel, volt meter (got rid of the amp gauge in the dash that had melted terminals as most have) and almost eliminated the bulkhead plug at the steering column where it goes through the firewall. I've changed the wires back and forth going to the distributor with little to no change (or so it seems). Am I missing something? Could try he relay being in place cause such? I felt it would be better to ensure 12V from the battery than a switch. I used relays on my lights as the headlight switchs in these old trucks has connection opportunities too. I can whole heartily agree it is a positive change to make. I've always liked Chrysler products from back in the day, but they had some wiring opportunities. Thanks for any advice.

[@HardHeadGarage]

@wadehearn6230 the relay is definitely a good idea, make sure it's getting 12 volts during cranking and in the run position. Only other thing I could think of would be make sure it has a good ground. Thanks for watching!

[@mikef-gi2dg]

You knocked that one out the park. I have been thinking about moving my HEI ignition module out of the HEI distributor, now I know how to do it. I have built my own engine test stand, and I am going to remote mount stock and MSD HI power module outside. Great job, I be (have) subscribing fo0r more tips.

[@HardHeadGarage]

@mikef-gi2dg thanks I really appreciate that! Check into the module from Pertronix, it sounds like a great addition to your run stand.

[@mikef-gi2dg]

@@HardHeadGarage Yes sir I will add it to the must check out list. Having a run stand lets me try things before thinking about installing it in a car. Keep it up.

[@mikef-gi2dg]

@@HardHeadGarage Well slap my face and call me tuesday. I finally built my HEI module tester like your example shows and it works just like advertised. I used an MSD Blaster coil, it's got a good kink with just the stock GM module. HOT DAM!

[@HardHeadGarage]

@@mikef-gi2dg feels good when a plan works out 💪

[@mikef-gi2dg]

@@HardHeadGarage Amen to that!! Now I can test coils, ign modules, mag pickups ect...ect....without using my home made run stand...made from a 75 camaro subframe. I don't got the $$$ for that big stroker motor, but I can keep the stuff I got going a lot easier. Simple fun useful...thanks for posting.

[@toddtheisen8386]

Smooth and easy video. Appreciate your time and effort.

[@HardHeadGarage]

@toddtheisen8386 thank you. I appreciate you watching!

[@richardparis8738]

Excellent diagram well spoken😊

[@billcoleman7316]

I have a 46 year old motor hope and all the ignition parts still work fine.

[@lesliemclean4381]

Very good video ,even a way to at least test a four pin ignition module to see if it at least is doing something.Very nice and simple setup.Had to draw down your diagram in my book.Even thought my car uses the 5-pin module, fifth pin for advancing and retarding timing on engine timing .Not the later 5-pin one that acts as a knock sensor function.

[@HardHeadGarage]

@@lesliemclean4381 I appreciate that! Thanks for watching!

[@richardparis8738]

Thanks for the information I will use 12 gauge😊

[@jonstepro]

Nice video! I am curious about one thing. At the beginning of the video you state this works with a distributor with no vacuum advance. As it happens I have an 87 D150 with no ballast and no vacuum advance. How will the timing advance when needed? I assumed I would need to replace the distributor with one with vacuum advance to do the HEI conversion.

[@HardHeadGarage]

@jonstepro this conversion will work with any electronic mopar distributor with or without vacuum advance. The distributor should still have some mechanical advance built in.

[@coyoteserranoband]

Questions.. 1.Connect another wire to the G side to the Battery positive on the ignition coil? For it to act as a pull up resistor? 2. When im grounding out the w terminal i'm taking another wire and to the body? 3. Would any ignition module work? Or do I have to get a certain year?

[@HardHeadGarage]

The only positive wire goes to the "B" terminal, it can be received from any switched 12 volt source. The ground on the module comes from one of the mounting holes on the module to chassis ground. I usually use a mid to late 70's 4 pin module, they are available from stock to performance.

[@highman9836]

Thank you Sir!

[@HardHeadGarage]

No problem! Glad we could help!

[@michaelhasse2568]

So you don't need the ballast resistor any more. How do you hook up to a keyed source, what wire or wires

[@HardHeadGarage]

@michaelhasse2568 get a multimeter and test your fuse box, any wire that has 12 volts with the key in the on and cranking position will work. Lots of people have used the wires that went to the ballast resistor.

[@Rush50101]

Great Video Thanks I have a 1984 dodge d150 with a 318 and I replaced the box and still wont start so I'm going to do the conversion, what is the cheapest coil I can get away with some of them are 75 dollars that's just ridiculous. You were connecting the old stock coil will it work ok or should I buy a different one. which one is reliable and cheap??

[@HardHeadGarage]

The display was with an old stock coil, I've heard of people using those, although they might not last as long. As far as aftermarket goes cheap and reliable are a thing of the past unfortunately. I've had good luck with the Accel Super Stock coils. Thanks for watching, and good luck on your build!

[@richardparis8738]

Do you have to take the ignition module out of distributor or leave it in thank you😊

[@HardHeadGarage]

@@richardparis8738 the Mopar electronic distributor is used in its stock form. The Chevy 4 pin ignition module can be mounted externally on a heat sink.

[@GoldRose63]

Question? If you go to super coil do you need to upgrade to different wires to accept all that new information?

[@HardHeadGarage]

@@GoldRose63 I upgraded mine to @SummitRacing 8mm. Reasonably priced and made in the USA!

[@billyraypreston6393]

I did everything you said in this video to the letter and even with an accel super stock ignition coil and still no spark with even switching the distributor wire connections at the module and still no spark and then I checked the positive and negative connection at the coil and both were hot with a test lite any suggestions???

[@HardHeadGarage]

@@billyraypreston6393 both had 12 volts?

[@dannybrightman4816]

What do you do about the ballist resister on the firewall with the four wires.

[@HardHeadGarage]

Some people use those original wires to get their 12 volt and keyed power from. I prefer to run new wires and ditch the old system.

[@richardparis8738]

What size gauge wire used thanks

[@HardHeadGarage]

@richardparis8738 if I remember correctly, I used 12 gauge

[@richardparis8738]

Do you have to bypass the ballast resistor

[@HardHeadGarage]

@richardparis8738 in my case the truck was not equipped with one

[@markhogeland3488]

With this setup can I convert from TBI to carburetor on my 1989 Dodge Dakota Shelby?

[@HardHeadGarage]

This setup works well with carburetors, granted that you have everything else needed for the conversion

[@markhogeland3488]

@@HardHeadGarage I have the intake manifold and carburetor what am I missing thanks again for all the help

[@HardHeadGarage]

@markhogeland3488 you'll need an old school electronic distributor

[@REGROY1913]

Great video! Thanks!

[@killermachine6859]

Do the early Mopar "transistorized" "electronic" ignition modules have a history of issues? If I recall when GM first introduced the Delco "HEI" there was some RPM related issue or something . What is the difference/benefit of using the Delco "HEI" module over the Mopar (?Prestolite?) unit? Don't they both just use a Power Transistor to switch the current on and off to the coil instead of mechanical contact points? What about using a Motorcraft Duraspark ignition module instead? it has the additional feature of an electronically controlled timing retard.

[@HardHeadGarage]

@killermachine6859 haven't had much experience with those other options. Over the years Chevy modules have been refined and seems to work good for me. Plus they're available almost anywhere

[@jayo961]

I definitely aint mad got tired of the failure Mopar made with the ignition system lol

[@jimbo5728]

Works with points?

[@HardHeadGarage]

@jimbo5728 I've heard it does, but haven't personally tried it myself.

[@jimbo5728]

@@HardHeadGarage I'm guessing you use one of the terminals and perhaps need to ground the other one.

[@firlanedrummer87]

And this still uses everything in the mopar distributor? Like the points? I don’t know shit about shit

[@HardHeadGarage]

This modifications is normally done on a factory Mopar electronic distributor, the ones with a magnetic pickup instead of points

[@firlanedrummer87]

@@HardHeadGarage what do I gotta do to get rid of the points

[@HardHeadGarage]

@firlanedrummer87 just grab any stock electronic distributor and you can do this upgrade.

[@firlanedrummer87]

@@HardHeadGarage thank you

[@Veterangarage]

I did this set up but no spark at all with power from a running battery even. I think the new distributor is bad that I just ordered.

[@HardHeadGarage]

Sometimes switching the wires on the distributor side of the module will help. Or the gap between your pickup and reluctor wheel inside the distributor is too wide.