Not going to sell this job! Toyota Sienna 3.5

[@jameshedrick605]

Ray is one of the channels i watch that i will hit the like button before i actually watch the video itself

[@ianburit3705]

Me too James, Ray's chatter while working feeds you his thinking processes if problems arise, so we know it's not just a guy with tools working on cars.

[@powderriver2424]

Me too

[@aceofarrows]

That's because you know it's going to be a very good video.

[@andrisimusmaximus5803]

Heck yeah

[@wallacejeffery5786]

Me too

[@patrickchavez3848]

A BIG piece of advice! Please, take care of your backs everyone! I hurt mine when I was in my late teens and now that I have made it to 50 I am hurting all day everyday! Please be careful with your backs and your fronts!! Have a good day.😊

[@edward.pearson]

In my job as a paramedic we have two types of people; those who have hurt their backs and those who will hurt their back! Only those who have hurt their back will ever take back care seriously unfortunately. I hurt mine playing hockey aged 20 and now nearly 50 I hurt every day too. Sound advice my man, but usually goes unheeded!

[@jdmforever5583]

I hear exactly what you're saying hurt my back to when I was young and now 58 years old have back sciatic pain everyday

[@williampope3531]

I hurt mine in my late 40's when helping a fellow move. Regular visits to a good chiropractor savede my sanity until he retired last year. I'm now 67 and have yet to find another chiro as good as Dr. Richard. 😕

[@IAWAF]

Important to strengthen your core - abdominals as well as back, as they work together to support your upper body (says the man with the gut). 😊

[@DonsJunkmail-vg1wt]

Well..yes older days many parts were cast Cast iron...ie intake manifolds...and you have to stoop, lean over to remove them...

[@watchingdanny]

There is a factory recall for the gas door on those Siennas. Toyota will reimburse your customer for that repair Ray. Toyota TSB ZKE or NHTSA 10162783 will have all the info. Side note, this video's level of brake clean was very satisfying. 😊

[@Aspen5.7]

Motor Oil-$50, Oil Filter-$15, Brake Clean-$87.50

[@glennrussell3252]

Ray's just about to go over 1/2 million subscribers. Congratulations Ray!!!

[@RainmanRaysRepairs]

Ty! 😁

[@t-metz2024]

I thought you were going to say Ray has gone over half million cans of Brake Clean

[@SYH653]

@@t-metz2024 He passed that a LONG time ago. Dealership days probably!

[@jonh901271]

Good call Ray. Lexus told me the 6 cyl is prone to leak from the timing cover. It is a $3,000 repair because the engine has to be dropped to access the cover. The Car Care Nut says don't worry about this leak unless it is making a mess on your floor.

[@ryans413]

Drove a car for 4 years with a small engine leak and a small transmission leak like not even dripping just watched the levels and topped off when needed.

[@oldbloke135]

For $3000 you could renew your driveway when you get rid of the car! I'm sure brake cleaner would shift most of it 😁

[@jonh901271]

​@@oldbloke135 A plastic tub on your garage floor to catch the drips works too! lol

[@nbco55]

​@@jonh901271 f*** that cardboard's free!

[@daijoubu4529]

Perhaps high(er) mileage oil additives/sealers package will help slow down the leak?

[@Lagg_007]

I replaced the mirror in my wife's Flex after she banged into the garage opening, I needed a couple picks and about an hour because I was following a KZbin vid. Saved us a few hundred bucks

[@maroz2881]

You forgot the drain door Oring on that oil filter housing thats what that second Oring in the bag was for

[@JimmyBallew]

And the white plastic piece in the kit is the tool to drain the filter housing.

[@dustcommander100]

That was an upbeat vid, Ray! Good to see you in an even better mood than normal. Our Toyota dealer tried to sell us an oil leak repair for about $900, not knowing that I change the oil and look for leaks myself. Here we are years later and nearing 200K miles, still with minor seepage. The real problem on this car became oil burning at around 100K miles. Ironic that they were concerned about seepage when so many of these cars were oil burners......

[@JohnSmith-eq5el]

that's not true...the 3.5 Toyota engine the 2Gfe series are known to consume oil at times, but are not known to be oil burners....that engine is one of the best ever made....

[@papabapyro]

The problem is if you don't change the oil 3/5k miles not the recomended 10k the oil rings will gum up.

[@yeah771]

funny part if they actually fix the leak it will still leak again after 200k miles

[@21Piloteer]

Ahmed from the Car Care Nut channel says oil leaks from the timing cover is a common issue on the older 3.5's.

[@ethanmurray6658]

All 3.5’s new ones are leaking as well. Toyota hasn’t changed anything about their manufacturing process to keep these from leaking

[@phyllisalderson6247]

Much respect for Ahmed ,,

[@phyllisalderson6247]

Respect for Mr Ray also

[@markmurrell1894]

What’s crazy is it’s recommended that you remove the engine from the car in order to fix that type of leak properly

[@johnmarino4085]

Love the fact you are giving this customer the option to repair or live with the minor leak.

[@jfrench0]

I like the fact he used the word seepage rather than leak. And said the manufacturer would look at it the same way.

[@williamfrench9973]

2GRFE engines are known for minor leaks (or seeps). They are not a big deal at all - he handled it perfectly (as usual).

[@Abesta83]

not a leak. happens to all those engines. it needs to come out to do it. Totally not worth it.

[@AlanTech0]

!!! The Gas tank door is on a Customer Support Program. They will fix it for free and replace it with an upgraded hinge. We have a 2015 Sienna LE and they got a new one paint matched it and installed it for no charge at our local Toyota Dealer.

[@gregjohnson2073]

Ray never does his homework

[@AlanTech0]

@@gregjohnson2073 I only found out by accident while looking for a repair guide. Some one mentioned it and I called dealer to get actual paper for it.

[@elelectrotech9374]

ok.i ckicked on an old video by mistake,the energy in your voice in the new videos says it all

[@JohnSmith-lw2bm]

Dang my sienna is just like this one only a 2011 model with almost 300,000 miles on it. Best vehicle i have ever bought.

[@shrodingerschat2258]

A clogged PCV valve (especially on high mileage engines) is one of the biggest causes of these types of oil leaks. Replacing a simple $9 part can save more costly repairs down the road. I had that problem on my '08 Accord 4cyl (150K miles) started having to add a qt every two weeks and noticed oil leaks around valve cover and timing cover. Replaced PCV valve and leaks stopped and not having to add oil between oil changes.

[@shrodingerschat2258]

Doing some research on the 0W-20's and 5W-20's that all manufacturers are "recommending" on these newer vehicles, and the consensus seems to be that the only reason is so that manufactures can eek out ever so much more fuel economy from their vehicle fleet to meet CAFE standards. I started putting 5W-30 and 10W-30 in my vehicles that are all over 100K miles just to get better friction protection that the thinner oils don't offer. I think the benefit of longer engine life outweighs the 1mpg I might save using the thinner oil.

[@spaceflight1019]

Since you're over 100k, consider using Mobil Delvac or Shell Rotella 15W-40. It has a much better additive package than automotive oils. It eliminates the sludge monster in the Dodge 4.7.

[@larrybe2900]

Longer engine life unless it takes longer for oil to circulate because it is thicker upon each start up. You could be advancing wear with this strategy.

[@spaceflight1019]

@@larrybe2900 Never had a problem. No leaks, less consumption, no sludge in the 4.7 Durango and no problems in the 3.9 Dakota I had at the time.

[@shrodingerschat2258]

Car companies make money by selling cars. And considering the "throw away" society we live in where most people don't keep a car longer than 2-3 years and then get a new one, they don't think about engine life (let alone following a proper maintenance schedule), so it makes perfect sense that car makers would trade longevity for fuel economy to meet CAFE standards by "recommending" thinner weight oils.

[@spelunkerd]

I understand your point, and in general it was good advice in the days before oil control solenoids were used to allow active adjustment of phaser timing. For vehicles made after about 2002, a tiny clot of oil in the wrong spot can lead to expensive failure and repairs of that mechanism. Similarly oil cooled turbos can be easily clogged, even more so for those with a screen. So, I tend to accept minor leaks and oil burning in the interest of preserving the most vulnerable points of the system.

[@pikamaster001]

Hey mechanic herd, Brake cleaner attacks the Seals so that they dry out faster then planned. We tested it on our workshop cars ( same model) and the one who we clean with brake cleaner after a oil change leaked oil after 7 years and the other one was dry cleaned with wipes still holds strong with the original seal

[@new2000car]

Makes a lot of sense

[@ChrisSmith-5655]

ALMOST HALF A MILLION SUBS RAY! so awesome

[@unkleeyerose]

Your channel actually solved a mystery for me for about a year ago. We got a first row seat back for warranty from a service shop. Our first row headrests are not adjustable but somehow this sears headrest had been squished by something heavy enough to make it bent at almost a 90 degree angle. I now know from your lift safety practices that they most deffinatly removed the seat for whatever reason and did not check when they were lowering the vehicle for parts underneath it and they most deffinatly squished thar seat with the vehicle when they lowered tbe rack down.

[@christopherpaul8705]

Almost 500K (@499K), awesome, nearly there... Smiled at your comment of "feels like, smells like, tastes like, must be" oil...

[@jeffdriver3000]

I still have my BG can funnel from when I was an Auto Tech. Funny how car oil filters started out as just the element and now has gone back to that

[@pewpew2113]

Ray, I am a lube tech at a dodge dealership, and I've done a couple of those Toyota oil filters before. The first one went like how you did it, with the oil spilling out all over the place, and I know you probably already know this, but that aluminum screw can be removed with a 3/8 ratchet. The oil filters that my parts department gives me usually come with a plastic piece to pre drain the filters before removing them to avoid such a situation. After I started doing that I almost completely avoided getting super splashed by those Toyota filters. Cheers, and good luck with the shop!

[@billchessell8213]

Time to invite “Peetah” (Peter) by the shop to do a 6 second cameo. We just need his legs and your plaintive call.

[@SportFury1966]

Wow. NO ONE ever unscrews the oil filter housing drain plug in the bottom (3/8" square drive). Admittedly, the plastic piece included with the filter kits (one of two parts in the filter kit he ignored; the other being the smaller o-ring for the drain cap itself) does have a tendency to drain oil all over your hand as you try to push open the housing drain valve. That's why you buy the very nice Assenmacher tool that threads into the housing drain plug port and run-up the outer wheel on the tool that pushes open the drain valve, allowing the oil to drain thru the valve into the hose attached to the bottom of it. Zero mess. Even if you never use the housing drain function, at least remove and replace the o-ring under the cap to avoid a nuisance leak from a brittle, ignored o-ring being an o-ring for too long. I wonder how many people had such an oil drip, and being ignorant of the cap, just cranked down harder on the innocent housing, galling an aluminum one or stripping the threads of a plastic one. Most Camrys have plastic filter housings but I upgraded mine to the aluminum version that's on this van (maybe all V6 engines, along will all Lexus engines). BTW, the housing (and thus the block) features a beautiful, long, Buttress thread that resists the internal oil pressure very capably. Once the housing positively stops on the block, the final torque is (IIRC) only 18 ft.-lbs.; the flat drain cap is 9. The radial compression on the outer o-ring really does most of the job of holding the housing in place. But if you look on the engine block along the OD of the filter housing, there is a tab held on with a single screw; it's there as a secondary lock to prevent the housing from unscrewing, but after several changes it gets bent out of the way and most people never even notice it again. And no, a bag of OEM drain plug washers (mine don't look like aluminum nor did that one) are not so expensive as to run the risk of a drip. Amazing Toyota never fixed their gas door hinges. Protip: when your Camry etc. gas door starts to groan and drag, lube the crap out of it and order a new one before the hinge completely breaks in half, leaving you with the door in your hand and an exposed gas cap. And those rivets are pretty big; I had to buy a two-handled installer to put in the new ones.

[@halh865]

that style of mirror glass for those various connectors: -heated mirror element -turn indicator or blind spot indicator -electrochromic (auto dimming) feature (that's why the mirror discolored - when it cracked air got to the fluid that performs the function) when ordering replacements there can various versions depending on how the model options were (some might not have auto-dimming for example)

[@stevenhayes3241]

It's funny you spoke about the man door being open, it always makes me nervous when you pull in the shop! I'm always like close that door 😄

[@scannerlanier471]

I know the brake cleaner is enjoyable watching, however that stuff raises cain with some things. About the only time I use it is for convenience on underside of engine or a short blast for some unreachable creavis. I find a dry rag works best, and maybe a little degreaser. We use a foaming cleaner called once over to remove a lot of grease and toner residue from printer/copiers. I bet that stuff would work wonders on spilled engine oil also.

[@eaglerider1826]

Anyone else curious how often Ray cleans off his tool cart .

[@therealSIRBOOM]

The answer is never.

[@eaglerider1826]

@@therealSIRBOOM Lol , I was going to guess at least twice a year .

[@Itstime2029]

He probably just buys another one

[@Sharpete]

Last time, was when he moved into the shop 😂

[@DaveBigDawg]

Well he's been there about 5-6 months So we may not know for awhile 😂

[@johndesaavedra1040]

That is a common leak on the 2GR engine. It seeps where the head, block, and timing cover meet. My truck leaks right there. no drip, no oil loss. Engine out on the Sienna to remove the timing cover, About 20 hours. I sprayed my truck leak and it took a couple of months to reappear. I may dry it off this summer and place a dab of silicone and the seep. These engines can't tolerate skipped oil changes very well.

[@mz10713]

Still amazes me how he does most of this work with one hand as he captures the work on his camera.

[@pdpyoshi]

The Oil filter housing on my Corolla is the same. Man, the guy at the lube place I took it to in the winter because I was too much of a sissy to change it myself when it was -35 celcius must have torqued that thing on with a 5 foot breaker bar. I snapped my chinesium oil filter socket.

[@AmandaHugenkiss2915]

The sienna takes 6.5 qts. I just changed ours at 5K and debated doing it, the oil still looked new at 5K on the dipstick. But it wanted it changed so I did. But I think it could go at least 7K easy. After a lifetime of GM and Dodge, I am extremely impressed with Toyota. Just looking at it underneath there is obvious attention to detail and better quality. An example is using metal standoffs for wires vs GM unwinding vinyl tape and plastic fasteners. The exhaust is pristine vs surface rust, even though GM and Dodge have stainless exhaust. 138K and 8 years and the underside of the engine looks like it just rolled out of the factory. No seepage, no grime, not even dirt. After watching multiple channels sing the praises of Toyota, we bought this one used a couple years ago. Very impressed.

[@stealthg35infiniti94]

Personally, if you don't have any history on the last oil change with tar looking oil, I would definitely recommend a Engine Flush Additive. But if change your oil every 5k or so with 100% Synthetic Oil, additives are a waste time and money.

[@aaronbritt2025]

I've never understood why so many people don't take the 3 extra minutes to drain the filter housing before removing. The filter kit even comes with the tool and new o-ring.

[@sethgallamore1561]

AHHH the age old question...To me it's no different than a vertical metal oil filter that spills over the sides when you take it off. idk to each their own lol just makes no difference to me

[@AmandaHugenkiss2915]

Because it's not worth it. I tried it a couple times and it's just as messy. There is no added value. Just remove the thing and spray it off

[@aaronbritt2025]

@@AmandaHugenkiss2915 You're doing it wrong. I don't even need gloves when I do it.

[@AmandaHugenkiss2915]

@@aaronbritt2025 could be but honestly, I've been loosening regular filters for 30+ years, it's not worth it to me to mess with that and wait around for it to drain, reinstall, undo the main part, etc. I'm under there, I'm getting it done as quick as possible while being careful. One thing that did dawn on me one day is, change the filter first. Any filter. Then it can drop into your pan and you don't risk dropping it into a full pan of oil and splashing it everywhere.

[@aaronbritt2025]

@@AmandaHugenkiss2915 I'm 50. Started when I was 14. I pop the tool in and let it drain while I loosen the plug. While the oil is draining, I continue my inspection. It's not wasted time.

[@maytagmark2171]

I would mention that its approaching time for timing belt replacement and if that seepage is concerning to them handle that at that time. If it becomes an issue.

[@edwardbennet3902]

3.5 engine uses a timing chain. 04,05,06 Sienna used the 3.3 engine which has the timing belt. That leak has been around since 05 starting with that engine in the Avalon. My Avalon and my 06 Rav4 V-6 had the leak...it only gets worse. Lexus uses the same 3.5 and they have the problem also. I was quoted 22hrs. labor to fix the leak back in 2010 before they realized it was best to pull the engine. They have an upgraded sealant now also. Nothin irritates me more than a leak on the garage floor.

[@maytagmark2171]

@@edwardbennet3902 Whats the maintenance on a chain then?

[@edwardbennet3902]

@@maytagmark2171 Chains have no maintance other than regular oil changes. The chain is lubricated with motor oil. Normally lifetime unless a tensioner goes bad (rare). The belt runs quieter and has a maintance interval (replace). Chains tend to be a little noisy but are mainrance free.

[@maytagmark2171]

@@edwardbennet3902 No Kidding!!! You missed the point of the statement all together. Maintenance on chain and gears means what is the recommended replacement interval for that particular Year Make and model. And in asking that is to suggest that what ever the replacement recommended schedule is Then at that time re examine the necessity to address the seepage issue. .

[@edwardbennet3902]

@@maytagmark2171 Your statement specifically mentioned it might be time to replace the timing belt...The engine in the video has a chain...that's what I responded to.

[@Raeilgunne]

heated mirror circuit constantly on maybe? It'd explain the burnt 'glass'.

[@Raeilgunne]

that or it got completely baked some other way, like it got reflected on to by something else.

[@TheWabbit]

Florida! The bake the dash and everything else state! Arizona and Nevada also.

[@jaredparsons4761]

BG EPR/MOA is legit. We used it religiously at the last shop I was at before leaving the industry. That combo is a miracle worker.

[@Vacman0331]

Another swimmingly good video. "The Car Care Nut" has done an entire youtube video on the Toyota 3.5 L V6 timing belt leaks...don't know if you have ever watched it, however, you may pick-up a trick or two for dropping the engine from the bottom to fix the leak should it become more than "seepage". The video is entitled "TOYOTA V6 OWNERS! This is The Biggest Problem with The 3.5L V6 Engine". If it saves you an hour or two then it is worth watching...it is all about the hours that you can bill for. Love your channel, been watching since you left the dealership. I wish you, the wife unit and the children the best and much success. Kindest Regards, Steve Boyle

[@floor_jack1441]

16:37 This OEM crush washer, you can get them as a set from Toyota dealership, it’s really good quality washers

[@DoubleAction2]

We have a 2011 Sienna 3.5 since new. 178K miles and still running strong. I don’t drive it much, but when I do, I like to lay waste to those unsuspecting Corollas and Civics.

[@sleekhaddock2746]

Been working on toyotas for a while now and unless it’s bad I just use the “sealing spray” aka brake clean to clean it off. It’s good pay but I never sell unless they complain or it’s really bad.

[@Thestargazer56]

The oil conditioner/additive may have seal swelling properties like the specialty "High-Milage" oils do and help with the oil drippage.

[@sleekhaddock2746]

What I meant is I just clean it off with brake clean I don’t really try to open that can of worms. Plus I don’t think a additive will help Fipg.

[@jfrench0]

To note about the engine cleaner, back in my day, Harley Davidson used to recommend running straight kerosene briefly after the oil was drained to clean out sludge etc. I did it this way from 1988 through 2012 no issues.

[@oldsargescoutsout757]

the Toyota oil filter change is two part process, cap removal, filter housing drain and housing removal. too many techs have used the square cap drive to tighten the filter housing making it impossible to remove the cap. Have to replace mine as a result

[@bearwires]

Oil and additives cabinet name: The Juice Box 9:42

[@mabronstevenson5256]

Oh and I use a quart of kerosene to flush engines in the same way then two oil changes I had a real badly clogged 350 Chevy one time and used a whole gallon of kerosene it was so clogged it wouldn't drive over 40mphbut after about ten minutes of idle and some very small reves it suddenly came to life a lot more so I waited one more minute then changed oil with cheap oil and a cheap filter then a small drive around town then back and then changed oil once again with the good stuff Castrol GTX high mileage and a good filter I'm not saying which filter though there's to many disagreements over filters

[@charvakkarpe]

Yeah, if you read the MSDS on Liquimoly Engine Flush, it's just longer chain hydrocarbons compared to gasoline. Gasoline is heptane and octane, the engine flush is something like 13-ane. Kerosene is probably pretty much the same thing.

[@K.Kelly87]

BOTH the gas door and the passenger mirror are SUPER COMMON failure items on these vans. The gas door is a PITA because there's a push button that tells the sliding door, the gas door is closed. If the switch reads open at all, the door won't operate manually or on the auto open. We had one of these vans in service as a taxi.. We disabled the switch, and removed the gas door.

[@cameronmartin4976]

Hey Ray love your content. Toyota tech here. The engine identifier on the sienna vans is under the wiper Cowell on passenger side facing upper intake. We can see the placard, you cannot. Also should be a 2GR.

[@carlbigdaddycarl]

The diversity of music playing in the background cracks me up!🤣

[@JovinRepairs]

BG Products! That's what I use at my shop as well. Same as you, I'm not trying to sell it to anyone on here, it's just what I prefer to use.

[@Pointsnapremovecap]

Fairly common issue. My wife and neighbor both have the same oil “leak” and been there for years. I also had to drill the rivets and pull the gas door hinge. Quick weld and back in better than new.

[@Justacogg]

Those front timing covers are notorious on the 2GR engines. It is a engine out procedure if you want to do it right. If it’s not causing a problem, just keep an eye on your oil level and leave well enough alone!

[@natep1661]

I did a quick review of the BG diesel EPR and it worked fantastic on my duramax. You don't need it every oil change, maybe every 50k miles could be fine. But for all your clients that have never had it, excellent move. BG makes awesome stuff.

[@LA_Commander]

Hey Ray they make these Toyota-specific funnels which screw into the oil fill hole and it makes adding oil much easier and quicker for these Toyotas.

[@billgraff4809]

I wish all mechanics would check the oil for correct level and add more if needed. My last stealership oil change, they only put 5 quarts in my 2018 Acadia AWD, which holds six. So, the customer gets stuck adding an $8 quart of oil if they are smart enough to check the oil level. Also, why can't everyone clean up spilled and splashed fluids like Ray? Always nice to pay your hard earned money only to have a smoking, drippy mess for the first day after. Love your content, keep up the good, honest, work.

[@leosheppard8517]

I’ve got a Toyota Kluger (your side it’s a highlander) … it is a tough SUV. This Toyota does not break easily unless you force something.

[@SapphiresAbyss]

oh i did it again, i stayed up until rays video went up 🤣🤣

[@jamram9924]

As an import technician, this leak appears to be the beginning of the infamous 2GR-FE timing cover leak. It will only get worse and end up having the drop the drive train (just like the Jeep), a few hundred dollars-worth of parts and a substantial labor bill. These are excellent engines with a very long life.

[@bch5513]

Thought those were mostly due to coolant corrosion? ... never mind. That was the OTHER issue. Head gasket leaks. No idea what I was thinking..

[@77.88.]

Use the Black light and the oil additive will trace that oil leak in no time at all, OLD SCHOOL 1970 it also was the very first time I used it on massive AC leaks on a Mercedes 240 diesel no one could find? Every AC hydraulic hose was leaking at the fittings, at that time the AC unit used flexible Hydraulic hoses.

[@milwaukeeroadjim9253]

I was just going to comment that you haven’t been servicing batteries lately. You have restored my confidence

[@thecman26]

Back in the day an old buddy of mine has a mid 80s camaro. He did his own oil changes. Every time he would put in a couple quarts of kerosene. Then he'd pull the coil plug off and cycle the starter for a while. Then he'd drain it and refill with new oil. That 305 was as reliable as a clock!

[@jimbellingham3572]

I put in Lucas oil stabilizer 4 "old engines", spun a bearing shortly after resart. scrapped the 4x4 blazer!

[@pecnorthernvalley4892]

Honestly… when I saw my first Rainman Ray’s Repair-video for a year ago or so… I really thought you were missing an arm! 😂

[@RainmanRaysRepairs]

🤣

[@mikeh6876]

Hey, Ray, have you ever thought about a headband for the GoPro? Like others here, I click the "LIke" thumbs up button before the video starts.

[@Michael-kd4oi]

have you ever tried liquid moly motor oil saver. it helped with two of my cars for oil pan leaks and valve stem leaks. 20k later and my cars are still good.

[@andrewc399]

Hey there is a recall/warranty ext on that gas lid door. I forget the number.

[@ETHel1903]

every time I see an oil change video I remember a chap I used to know. He would drain the oil out then restart the engine for around 10 seconds to purge the rest of the oil out before refilling - I know, I know! funny enough he was always changing cars..................

[@garymeyer3294]

I do the same thing but not for 10 seconds. Tgats way too long. All it takes is to turn the engine over for a couple revolutions. It doesn't even have to start. If it does, turn it off immediately as fast as humanly possible. That releases an at least an extra cup or two of dirty oil which was hanging in the internal parts. You'll see the oil start to flow again. I've never had an engine that used any oil or been damaged between 7500 mile oil changes.

[@fritzhusselmann2023]

I was doing some work in my garage with brake parts cleaner this evening. Ran out, threw the empty can across the yard yelling “ANOTHER!” - funniest look the neighbour’s given me in a while.

[@billkunert7281]

I have a 2011 Corolla and several years ago the dealer told me the timing gear cover was leaking. Not a drop of oil on my drive even 8 years later. They wanted $2500 to pull engine and reseal.

[@boostedmaniac]

Those crossclimate 2 Michelins have got to be some of the most popular tires ever. I have a set on my sienna and they are great, but I also see them on so many other cars. They’re hard to miss with that trademark tread design.

[@Mikelp73]

I wanted a set of those cross climate 2’s. I do not have the means, however, so I’m rolling generic.

[@Gary_in_NoVA]

I’ve got them on my RX-350. Super quiet, and great traction in rain & snow. They’re all I will buy from now on. Ordered mine through Costco

[@Mikelp73]

@@Gary_in_NoVA honestly appreciate the feedback. I want a good rain tire and I am on gravel sometimes so the extra traction would help. My parents is a mile uphill on a gravel road..

[@chrischallacombe3477]

I spoke too soon!! Bonus BC sounds! Awesome Ray!!

[@agatsu1776]

oil leak from that oil pipe is famous for GR engine, just replace washer with proper torque.

[@scottapel5798]

You have to braze the gas tank lid with a torch. Just stuff a rag in the tank to prevent fumes from escaping.

[@kivancbiber]

This is very common on 2GR-FE. Leak is due to failed seal where block, head and timing cover meet. Rock solid engine otherwise, if regularly maintained.

[@justaguyinatank1702]

Ray. You should totally call that cabinet the juice box.

[@aciddiver1978]

Scotty Kilmer would have gotten chronic insomnia if he saw you use that engine flush😉

[@RainmanRaysRepairs]

He’ll be fine 😂😂😂

[@BGnick73]

Let Scotty know that BG has elevated from Snake Oil to Lizard Lotion, this way he can be less restless. LOL. It’s not tested at a carnival, it’s tested by engineers and very highly qualified technicians daily, that’s why I use it. It’s the cat’s pajamas of chemicals in the industry.

[@kevincurry4735]

500k getting closer everyday. 🚀😊

[@fostergaler8480]

There was a secondary-smaller O-ring for the tube for the oil filter, I noticed. Not installed?

[@larryadelberg6676]

The second smaller o ring is from the drain plug in the bottom of the filter cover, which he didn't remove, nor do most people.

[@therealswarvey]

So close to 500k!!!

[@reefblay2585]

12:52 Day and Night ray why u always listening to such good music ur shop jus is the best shop ever i wish i lived in florida youd be my only mechanic

[@MrPerry61]

those Michlins are great in snow. I have them on my Camry Hybrid.

[@MattsRageFitGarage]

Additive and fluid cabinet. I have one of those, I call it the mantry, it's like a food pantry, but for men.

[@richardgreen1383]

The owner probably saw some spotting on the garage floor. My solution to the seepage from my 2003 Jeep Wrangler is to put cardboard down to catch the seepage. If you can't tell the oil loss on a dipstick, an expensive repair won't pay for itself and the seepage won't harm the engine. A less than reputable shop would have jumped at the change to make some big bucks of a small issue.

[@Motoskichimo1974]

Wish my truck could of been as easy as this van. I Tried to do the oil change on my 04 350. Now, I know fords are known for rust. But somebody literally torqued the drain plug to about 10000 lbs. It stripped the head. What I learned is that never over torque your parts. Now I had to add that to list of things the mechanic has to work on.

[@joefrazier5361]

still the best one handed mechanic I ever saw

[@DonsJunkmail-vg1wt]

Yeah...he needs one of those "door knob" handles on his truck steering wheel. Just as long as the air bag and safety belt works....

[@rodx5571]

If you look at his drill at the open of the video, you can see the rivet heads remains he has drilled. Usually those are from window regulators, usually on 90 ish to 2005 ish fords and Lincolns. That is where i run into them. Best guess. So Ray, where did the rivets come from?

[@SidneyLewis-dm7ny]

From Lowestoft the most Easterly Point of Gt Britain Nice to see a mechanic not ripping customers off

[@stephendeluca4479]

I like the smaller smorgasbord of repairs. They're a good change of pace from the big single repair videos.

[@PaulieWalnutss]

Ray The engine has to come out to take the timing cover off 10+ hours. Also this is a very common issue with the 3.5. There is a TSB on it as well. The black silicone used was the issue specifically Ray. Also there is no gasket used.

[@jcadult101]

That's insane.

[@jasonpocaro2730]

Almost 500k RAY... YEAH 😁👌

[@donwyoming1936]

I just cleaned out my 2nd windshield wiper fluid reservoir thus year. That blue stuff can turn into an inch of goo at the bottom of the tank. Plus dried blue stuff clogged the nozzles. Never had the problem before.

[@hugh007]

I wouldn't dare suggest how you do oil changes, so take this as my opinion only. The engine didn't seem sludgy under the cap, so I don't understand the BG products with the oil change. Manufacturers advise against additives and other than a neglected engine, I've never used anything in the crankcase. That's just me, though. Keep wrenching.

[@jerryg2073]

I keep forgetting to buy stock in spray cleaner!

[@huskylvr4evr]

The timing cover leak effects all Toyota 3.5L V6's. The timing cover leak is way more than 10 hrs. Books at 20 plus. Need to drop the engine out to do it correctly.

[@texasguy-]

XLE is a trim code, basically middle tier. The plastic tube in the filter kit is for draining the filter housing without spillage. You should replace that o ring as well.

[@skhurshid248]

Is it not bad for rubber parts to be sprayed with break clean?????

[@luispatino3180]

The fact that oil filter cartridge was torqued previously to 18 ft lbs and not 1000lbs is like winning the powerball.

[@Damoinion]

I actually use the filter drainer that should comes with the new element, as long as some gorilla hasn't used the filter drain plug to wind up the whole unit! 13 NM for the drain plug, 25 NM for the housing. (Umm, I think that's about 9 and 18 ft lbs respectively)

[@randybeard6040]

@@Damoinion --A Wasted Step, Toyota Tech's do not use the small drain...

[@Damoinion]

@@randybeard6040 Maybe, maybe not. I make my juniors learn how to do it that way so that they learn to not over tighten and also to avoid excess mess and waste of cleaning products.

[@garymeyer3294]

​@Damoinion There's no need to when you have one of those fancy oil collection systems setting under the car when it's up on the hoist.

[@lloydstone1068]

I worked at Jiffy Lube a few months ago (got sick, was let go). Anyways, didn't happen to me, but a coworker. Car came in, wanted oil change. He was trying to take the drain plug out, but it snapped. Thankfully none of the plug was left in the hole. It's insane how some "mechanics" torque the shit out of those plugs.

[@ryans413]

Drove a car for 4 years with a very small leak like it was not even dripping. Just watched my oil and topped it off when needed. A shop quoted me 1k dollars to take the engine apart to change a 50 dollar gasket. I said screw that I’ll just top my oil up from time to time. Eventually I got it fixed but not everything needs fixing now you can keep an eye on things most the time.

[@rustbeltrobclassic2512]

you're daring, those 3.0, 3.3 and 3.5 have really small top end oil feed tubes, in the sludge prone 3.0 if you ran any kind of oil additive to clean up the gunk, it would cause the feed tubes to clog and oil starve the top end..

[@bigsparky8888]

HOWDY RAY...!!! OIL VISCOSITY NEEDS TO BE ADDRESSED FROM OWNERS MANUAL...5W30 IN HIGHER TEMPS, CALLS FOR A HIGHER VISCOSITY OIL...I was born n raised in SO CAL...NOW IN TUCSON, AZ...SO. I RUN 20W50 TO MEET THE TEMP NEEDS IN MY ENGINE.. YOUR CHOICE BRUDDAH!!!😂👍🇺🇸💪👋🙋

[@wschuurmans1]

Ray always nice videos, in my time as a car mechanic I checked small leaks with chalk powder. First clean well and use a pressure cup gun, similar to a paint sprayer. (I don't know the English name.) Spray chalk powder on the suspected spot, run the engine and even the smallest leakage can be seen in the chalk powder. Maybe a useful tip. Good luck and greetings from the Netherlands.