My DIY Off-Grid Solar Shed Project Part 1 - Assembly

Installing my 100w off grid solar power on my shed, components that i used are very similar to what you would find on RV or boats. thanks for the view!
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[@ExplainingComputers]

Great video -- really interesting to see you doing something a bit different. I hope we get more episodes from the shed. :)

[@NovaspiritTech]

defenilty more to come! but i'm learning so much from all these comments

[@OffGridAussiePrepper]

WOW.... FIRST TIME I see u comment on another vid Chris.

[@NewAgeDIY]

Interesting. Chris has a wonderful channel great to see him commenting.

[@ScottPlude]

The now-infamous coughing video.... Don I am so sorry. MY heart aches for you and your family. Not a day goes by that I don't think about you and this video.

[@bluestayslit]

Love and peace, Nova! This is seriously interesting to me! I went through this stage about 1 year ago now, having purchased my first mono-crystalline 100w solar panel. I did the preliminary research and concluded as you did, that I indeed wanted MPPT to replace the PWM module I had already bought. As usual, video quality is great! I want to see more of this project! Hopefully your whole roof is covered someday! Enjoy! 🔥

[@DavidGetchel]

I too started with a small solar setup like that. It's great to learn from and not too dangerous or expensive to gain skills for future setups. I just finished building a 30kw tesla module battery. It's for an off-grid tiny house/workshop. This is after years of various setups. Stationary and in vans. Still learning!

[@NovaspiritTech]

100000% i learned alot from this... and all the comments i'm gettting... i learn after if i just try to do it over watching videos or reading

[@lawrencedavidson6195]

Solar is my hobby too. I have a single 450 watt panel, a 20 amp Rich Solar CC charging sixteen 7.2ah sealed lead acid batteries. Greetings from Jamaica.

[@frankbezemer8405]

Hi Don, good video. What I do (and what is a cheaper and possibly better solution) is to use a boost converter connected straight to a solar panel. The boost converter stabilizes the voltage out of the panel. You do not need an inverter when your appliance that you want to charge has a switch mode power supply (basically everything). They can use DC voltage to charge as well. What the inverter does is to convert the DC from the battery/solar panel to AC, and then the power supply from the appliance converts it back from AC to DC. This all has losses and isn't required.

[@FranzCritchlow]

I learned a few things as usual. Thank you for the lesson. I also learned you are one tall dude 😁 Get well soon.

[@SlyEcho]

You may be able to get some LED lights that run on 12V DC so you don't need an inverter for them.

[@yasirrakhurrafat1142]

Varying voltages might damage or wear out the LEDs tho .

[@timothyadams7599]

I did exactly that same thing, it worked out great. Amazon does have 12V dc bulbs, but they tend to be a little more expensive. I’m going to see what alliexpress has.

[@jmw366]

Nice work Don - I have a VERY similar shed here in the UK, and I also am in the middle of converting my Ford Transit Minibus into a Campervan - I have a basic solar kit to put in it...

[@qsefunz]

Couldn‘t see it properly, but you might want to put the wire from the roof into the shed in a loop, so that rain can‘t run along the wire into the shed, so it can drop down in front of the wall.

[@NovaspiritTech]

i will be added a box later for this, but i will currently make sure i have loop just in case

[@timothyadams7599]

I converted my shed to DC over 8 years ago. Lithium Ion batteries weren’t available back then, as they are today. So I ended up using 12V deep cycle lead acid batteries. Recently I’ve been buying the Lifepro 12V 10AH batteries, they come in set of 2 on Amazon. I plan on overhauling my shed using them and 5 100W solar panels.

[@thehaguefortnite_163]

Wow, what a big garden. You should build a iot/solar watering system and plant some potato's 😉.

[@thehaguefortnite_163]

and catch some rainwater from the shed, to use with a 12v water pump.

[@praveenprasannan]

@NovaspiritTech if you are planing to use a light from the battery it might be better to use a 12v DC light directly from the battery or through the Solar charge controller

[@NovaspiritTech]

will do, going to get some rv / boat lights

[@ISBayHudson]

If not mentioned or on the to do list, look at adding a fuse box (like Blue Sea 5029) from the battery to the devices it feeds. Add USB marine ports too.

[@larrybell4599]

Good start on your solar. You may want to add some 12 volt lights in your shed. No inverter needed and you can see what you’re doing.

[@richardperritt]

I see someone else has mentioned to make sure that there's a drip loop. Also: Try to increase the space below the panels. Raise them up to allow more airflow. In the summer, heat is a solar panel's enemy. Tech Ingredients recently did a video on this. I understand this is a temporary setup. These aren't complaints but rather meant as tips.

[@NovaspiritTech]

good tip, i will raise them soon, thinking about going for a 180w panel which is skinnier and longer, which might fit on the raised channels

[@jmw366]

Also, I'm not surprised you don't get much Bluetooth out of your metal box shed (faraday cage) :D

[@hervedurand3224]

Nice project :)

[@NovaspiritTech]

it's really fun!!

[@julian.morgan]

I had a pretty identical shed at my previous house. I bought it secondhand and it had been dismantled, so was basically just a pile of roof and wall sheets, plus some braces and a bucket of fixings with no instructions. In the process of building it I came to hate pretty much everything about it, but that was nothing compared to how I felt when I realised how extremely prone these metal sheds are to condensation. That meant that everything inside it had to be waterproof including using electric sockets designed for external use inside the shed with tarpaulins over everything inside it to keep the drips off. My point is I just wouldn't put electrical gear inside such a shed - at least not here in the UK - maybe your climate is so different you don't get the same problem?

[@me.ko.i1279]

I like it.

[@eugenewii]

I would suggest to putting the panel sideways so you can fit 3 panels per column with the electrical away from the edge. The next column with the electrical close to the rightmost column. You should be able to fit 4 columns of 3 panels with 2 power busses. Gradually, increase the DC voltage because the more current (Amperes), the larger wires.

[@OffGridAussiePrepper]

"the larger wires needed" when wiring in parallel.

[@eugenewii]

@@OffGridAussiePrepper That is another way of describing it. I usually recommend 72 Volts for small installs like this. 144VDC with a true sine wave for clean inverter for bigger. 288VDC for whole house systems.

[@user-fw6eg3hc8f]

Most Lithium can't charge under 32deg though which is a big problem in most of the country in winter. So be sure to turn charging off when temps drop. If you use the Victron BMV-712 for example and tie Victron controllers in one can set it automatically to disable charging below certain temps. Most temp charge control is for lead and changing the charge voltage...NOT what you need for lithium

[@SimonTekConley]

Put a couple of nuts on the interior of the roof mount just to CYA when it's windy out and cut the bolts down. You will hit your head on those even in the short term.

[@NovaspiritTech]

will do thankss, i did find some nuts for it, now i'm just looking for lock washers

[@robcarnaroli269]

I was able to integrate my Renogy PWM that has an RS-485 with Home Assistant. I found someone's code on git hub. I used an ESP32 with ESPhome. The only issue I had was they had it calling so many parameters that it was very unreliable if it would work at all. So I trimmed the code down to the few things I wanted like panel params and battery params, charging state. Then it worked like a champ. Must be some timing issue.

[@NovaspiritTech]

hahaha that's another vidoe i'm working on, i got my raspberry pi to commincate with the rs 232 and logging data now

[@johncnorris]

Fun project! PS - In case you wanted a Comment Section Pell Grant: The hardware you used to secure the solar panel are called "Self Tapping Screws."

[@SchoolforHackers]

Actually, those are self-DRILLING screws. Can I get a grant too? 😅

[@OffGridAussiePrepper]

Self drilling metal screws to be exact. they dont work on wood.

[@Will-sc3hw]

Solar sheds are awesome, If you can find DC-DC converters they are more efficient than inverters fro charging other batteries or small devices. Automotive fuses/wiring works well

[@NovaspiritTech]

will do, i'm so hyped in getting all the 12v stuff working

[@Will-sc3hw]

@@NovaspiritTech the only downside is overcast days and winter. I barely get anything out of my panels here in Scotland other than the summer months

[@NovaspiritTech]

yea i peaked at 45w one of the days

[@SchoolforHackers]

Learn as you go: perfect hacking technique. Kudos Don -

[@NovaspiritTech]

yes and i'm learning so much from comments

[@SchoolforHackers]

Are you familiar with Will Prowse’s solar channel? He’s got really good project guides. Have fun, regardless.

[@AndyBerman]

I doubt that an inexpensive battery like that has low temperature cutoff. You should test it so it won’t be destroyed charging below zero.

[@NovaspiritTech]

it does have a BMS but i will double check on this below zero thing

[@limacs]

I see some shades on your shed, that might be even worse during summer when that tree grows some leaves 😅 could be wrong tho

[@fffUUUUUU]

They're so many shadows from the trees above, I'm almost sure you'll be disappointed about the wattage you'll get from 100W panel. Right now it will be about 10-20W. At summer 30-45W, probably.

[@NovaspiritTech]

i'm going to do a timelapse when it's a sunny day

[@blackmennewstyle]

Pretty cool project my brother

[@NovaspiritTech]

thanks!

[@matsgustavsson665]

Nice video, keep on keeping it KISS for us fools😀

[@The4Crawler]

Great start! I built a solar shed 5 or 6 years ago and it's been working well: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qXy9fnp7nJeDiM0 kzbin.info/www/bejne/enKzpKefgbJ6i6M I run the lights and fans off the 12V load output, that way they get shut off if the battery voltage drops too low. The system uses the 12V batteries in 2 of my tools as the system battery. That way those 2 devices are kept charged and the store power for the rest of the system. I started with a cheap PWM controller then went to an MPPT controller.

[@NovaspiritTech]

i'll check it out!

[@SimonTekConley]

Usually, when I'm trying to learn something, I don't spend a lot of money on it. Then, I usually plan to upgrade a lot later with things.

[@NovaspiritTech]

10000% same here, i learn faster doing it rather than watching a video or reading about it

[@SimonTekConley]

@@NovaspiritTech yup. We watch you to get an idea of some tech we haven't played with, and then do it ourselves

[@mohameddoccali7872]

👍

[@esmannr]

I would put a seal between the bracket and the roof.

[@NovaspiritTech]

i will be looking into that

[@zyu9974]

can this charge a 30amp ev ?

[@kevinshumaker3753]

What about tthe issue of cold batteries ans charging? How are you keeping things warm?

[@NovaspiritTech]

the battery does have a bms hoping it wont be a issue later, i'll have to double check that

[@Laurie_H]

My experience with charging batteries is NIL however there is a video on KZbin about a guy charging his Tesla in -30F degree weather. "Apparently" once you start trying to charge the Tesla battery in those weather conditions it will first send the power to the motors to heat up the batteries so it will be the "optimum conditions" to then start charging the batteries. Having said all that, maybe a lithium battery isn't the best solution in your current climate conditions where as the car battery is "made" to charge in those conditions via the alternator when the vehicle is running. Granted the engine produces heat under the hood of a combustible engine car. None the less the car battery has cold cranking power, where as the lithium battery will die more quickly in colder weather conditions.

[@jamess1787]

Idea for you: Take your 400W inverter apart, wire in an ESP32 with a relay to remotely turn it on and off. If you get an ESP32 with Bluetooth: you can relay the Bluetooth info from your renogy to your home over wifi. 🧠

[@jamess1787]

Pis are pretty power hungry, not sure about pico: but pico doesn't have wireless afaik.

[@jamesaitken1959]

😅i use a 200ah agm deapcycle battery a 40ah mppt solar a d a 320 w solar panel and a 1200 w inverter with a 40a fuse

[@StevenLVE9SY]

One small problem with the set up. Check the data sheet on your battery. Most Lipo4 batteries don't like cold, unless it comes with an internal heater. If it has cold temp cut off, it will stop changing, and you can not draw power from it is the temp is below I think -5C or 23F. Long term storage below that temp can kill the battery. Most Lipo4 batteries should have low temp cut off for charging. But some will say they do and don't. This will destroy one of these batteries.

[@Mr.Leeroy]

8:44 at 1.5x speed aha, so that's how Rammstein - Du Hast was recorded

[@davocc2405]

Noooice - but why ditch the car batteries! I've always wondered if that's the Pork Hunt way out of this given their lower price. Given NYC gets 2x the rainfall of London - do you actually get enough sunlight to make this work?

[@Liny_Fox]

Car batteries are not designed to be discharged all the way down, can kill them really quick. They are made for short and high power loads like starting.

[@davocc2405]

@@Liny_Fox is this the case for all of them? Boat batteries too?

[@fffUUUUUU]

@@davocc2405 you brought up the *car* battery case. Stick to it, motherlover

[@davocc2405]

@@fffUUUUUU What? WTF are you talking about?

[@veremlim]

@Novaspirit Tech The solar panel screws pierced the roof and may lead to leaking and rust around the holes. Rain water could drip into the shed underneath the screw holes and damage anything stowed underneath. You may want to use insulating gel or silicone caulk. Also, the screws are quite long, visible at 7:54, and could poke at your head if walked underneath without noticing.

[@aurthorthing7403]

You are supposed to connect the battery first. You can damage your charge controller if you hook up solar panels without the battery connected.

[@NovaspiritTech]

i have my connected to battery first, the solar wires were installed but not plugged in from the outside. yes i know about the warning on this! hahah

[@pasan.]

The solar panel placement isn't great because of shadows. Even small shadows can significantly decrease performance.

[@ytfp]

You are going to have to heat that shed if you are not careful you will ruin your battery(ies), can't charge them in cold weather. Cold weather in gerneral is not good for any batteries, but LifeP04 and lithium don't do well in cold weather.

[@NovaspiritTech]

i'm hoping the bms will tell the battery not to charge when it's too cold, i will do more reserach thanks!!

[@giannisd961]

so try to avoid using an inverter for charging and powering staff cause it's not efficient an example if you want to charge like your power bank that takes 5 volts in you should use a step down converter to step 5 volts to 12 and not 12 -> 110/230 back down to 5

[@fffUUUUUU]

What was the reason in buying a kit when you immediately ditched a half of it as unusable?

[@NovaspiritTech]

poor research at first, i thought a kit would solve everything but mppt is the way to go

[@fffUUUUUU]

@@NovaspiritTech not only that, lead acid battery was a no go from start.

[@g.s.3389]

soon you will find tthat with you 100W panel if you are lucky you will get 50W...unless they are from a very reputable brand...

[@NovaspiritTech]

starting to relize that now, max i got was 45w but it is winter hahah... i want more already!!

[@user-fw6eg3hc8f]

It's addictive...I got 1230w on a little 6x10 cargo trailer haha...but I can run a/c anywhere I am :) during the day anyway

[@burnzy3210]

you need to sort out that rust before it starts causing leaks where you now have electronics

[@NovaspiritTech]

i willlllll, now that i have something of value in there

[@burnzy3210]

@@NovaspiritTech use the solar to charge a drill battery then attack it with a wire wheel haha solar already looking after itself 😉

[@Ultegra10SPD]

LiFePO4 isnt Lithium Polymer. -U10

[@loizostheochari1509]

Visit a "Tech Ingredients" on KZbin he has good information on solar panels. Explaining how temperature affects the power rating output of solar panels. The reason why solar panels always need to face the sun.

[@fffUUUUUU]

That cheapo invertor eats (wastes) at least 20% of the energy. That power brick charger wastes another 10-15% energy. Given all the DC-AC-DC losses and the microscopic battery, panel and shadows - this is rather a toy than serious setup.

[@NovaspiritTech]

this is a good start to learn, eventually i'll get there but thanks for the tips, i will be converting everyting to mainly 12v instead of using a inverter

[@fffUUUUUU]

@@NovaspiritTech as was mentioned by other commenters, you better start looking at 24V or even 48V setup. Less copper in wires, less losses to heat. And after you build the serious setup you'll need invertor for your AC needs. Even 24V invertor much more efficient, weigh less.

[@SimonTekConley]

Why use an inverter? Everything your charging is DC power. It can't be that efficient to go DC --> AC --> DC .

[@NovaspiritTech]

10000% i will start picking up rv/boat 12v lights and other supplys soon

[@OffGridAussiePrepper]

1stly... ur not superman and shudnt be outside when ur that sick. If u own the house I would get new shed that atleast will hold up against a hurrican or tornado..... and never disconnect the battery while the solar panels r connected..... aligator clamps is never a good idea at any stage.

[@drtoothpaste]

self tapping for the screw, and 8mm socket just in case you were lost for words