OBS Ford F 150 how to fix the Old Plastic Vacuum Lines

[@southernjuju351]

I got a 96 Eddie bauer i got after my Grandad Passed. Ive been trying to get her back rigtht and this channel has really opened my eyes to the little things to bring the old girl to life!!!! Thank you!!!

[@AintScaredGarage]

No, Thank you, that's what I'm trying to accomplish here, don't look at how big the job is, look at one small thing that will make it better, when you do that thing you will have a swell of pride and you will now really like at least one thing you have right on the project, this will get you motivated to do another thing, I started on old Strappy almost 2 years ago, and I cant believe how far I've come with her at this point, keep at it and you will have a nice truck there. So here is an example, if you haven't seen this one check it out, and this was a year ago, she has come so much farther sens I did this update video kzbin.info/www/bejne/a4rXZWmLqJh7jq8

[@southernjuju351]

@@AintScaredGarage Much Respect! I really have enjoyed watching your content!!!!

[@jesselovejoy6555]

I know you put a lot of work into creating this video,thank you for the help and the understanding of how it works

[@AintScaredGarage]

If you have any more questions let me know, I'm no expert my any means, but I can usually figure stuff out

[@GeneralSulla]

​​@@AintScaredGarageMan my '93 F150 looked just like that. Hose was crumbling. Bought some flexible vacuum tubing and now it works just fine. Question: Now my Temp Sender works too. Never did work right before. Always sending below operating temp. I checked with a Temp gauge and it said it was 180°+ F. Are they connected or did the Gods take pity on me and do me a good gratis? 😂

[@dskize1]

Thank you for this video. I am not sure how I got here, but I'm so glad I did. I was able to locate my broken line and get my truck's heater/AC from being stuck on defrost!!

[@AintScaredGarage]

Excellent!

[@mattharvey8712]

Bravo......hey I had Mercedes 300td.......87........the whole car runs on vacum..........even the windows used vacum........and it was deisel........wow ....cheers

[@AintScaredGarage]

That had to be a mess LOL

[@jeffreyyoung4104]

I bought a 2002 Jeep Liberty with 199K miles that spent most of it's life in WV, some time ago, it had an engine change, and ever since, it had no heat, and I suspect, no cooling either. I spent hours looking for how the vacuum was supposed to get through the firewall, and I finally found a nipple without a hose, and a little later, the hose. Once the hose was attached to the nipple, I had all of the heater functions! And the rest is history... I was not able to buy the factory service manual, nor did I have a membership to the onlne factory service information, so the hunt for the nipple and hose was pure seek and destroy mission. The sticker on the hood for the vacuum line routing lacked one hose, the one for the inside vacuum system. All of the other lines were on the sticker, except the feed to the firewall... But I wm willing to bet, that the guys with the hvac manual have the information, but it isn't in the Haynes or Chilton's manuals.

[@AintScaredGarage]

Thanks for the comment

[@jayleeper1512]

This video made me decide to to tell a related tale for all the shade tree mechanics out there. I have an 89 F150 that I recently did an engine swap on, a 4.9 liter 6. After I got it together, it would start but ran flooded and blew black smoke. I went crazy tearing every part trying to see what was wrong. I finally started taking off vacuum lines to church them. I finally found that a couple of them were blocked. While the vehicle was apart, little mud dauber wasps had crawled into them and built mud nests I ran a wire through them and a bunch of mud and larvae came out but after I was done, the truck ran fine. I just did another swap and before K put it together, I checked the lines and, sure enough, about half of them had been plugged by these tiny little bees. When the line to the MAP sensor gets plugged, the rig will not run right.

[@AintScaredGarage]

Them suckers get into everything, LOL

[@jmtfab]

You are the man! My truck has been stuck on defrost for years, no more, thank you!

[@AintScaredGarage]

Thanks, I'm gad I could help, you might also want to replace the vacuum back flow valve as well, the old one is bound to go and then you get the temp changing all the time in the cab, 10 buck's on Amazon www.amazon.com/dp/B000C5DZIC?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details after you see what it looks like you'll spot it in the engine bay just to the left of the AC box

[@jmtfab]

@@AintScaredGarage right on, I will replace that too.

[@carloscarnero2786]

Thank you for this video this helped me big time tune in my vacuum lines specifically the heater ac t line going from the vacuum tree to the ac box below the map sensor and the line running in the jacket with a bunch of witrs going into the firewall heaters working and blowing good through all vents defrosters and all thank you sir much appreciated

[@AintScaredGarage]

Thanks for letting me know, I like knowing that something helped, and I'm glad it's all working for you, them lines can be when they get old

[@stephennickles7389]

That's the most I've seen on vacuum lines, mine are a mess, rusted out canisters, dead ends laying around. Thanks for the information

[@AintScaredGarage]

So the canisters have become hard to find, but you can use most any canister as long as it has 2 ports, on the 59 F150 the have a plastic one that wont rust, but an idea I had was, if you go to a junk yard and get one thats not rusted out and mask the ports and then put a couple coats of FlexSeal on it that should plug any pin holes there might be, then you can use it, it really is just an empty can, there's nothing inside

[@lachrishaclark2503]

Thank you so much! Finally a video I can follow . Ya I'm amazed at theses vacuum hoses lol I nout a truck for parts and it's been fun.

[@AintScaredGarage]

Glad I could help

[@chuckwhite1101]

Good informative video. Your Neighbor has a nice Mach 1

[@AintScaredGarage]

Yes he does, you can eat off of his motor it's so clean.

[@alanspring8462]

Happy to subscribe just for this one video invaluable

[@AintScaredGarage]

Awesome, thank you!

[@hagan_21games58]

man you got no clue how much this helped me thanks a lot

[@AintScaredGarage]

Glad I could help

[@DreamcastQ]

This is great thank you, I've had a 94 since new and she's gettin a little crusty

[@AintScaredGarage]

No problem, this is a cheap and easy fix, but I am thinking about redoing them all, you can get this plastic tubing in all different colors, if an when I do I'll video it, and thanks for watching and commenting

[@findzach9326]

@@AintScaredGarage that'd be a cool video

[@803Gordon]

@@AintScaredGarage that would be great. I have the exact same problem in my 1990 f150. Where can I find those lines??

[@ricks3313]

95 Bronco, all the leaks in mine were underneath the bracket that affixes it to the fenderwell. It was full of pinholes.

[@AintScaredGarage]

I'm glad you found them

[@clwest3538]

Thank you for this video!! Man, you put in the work on it!

[@AintScaredGarage]

Glad you liked it!

[@miguelarguello7969]

Excelente. Mejor explicado imposible. Thanks lots. God bless you.

[@AintScaredGarage]

thanks

[@Mr.Safety.]

Love the video

[@AintScaredGarage]

Thanks

[@desouza8158]

very good video thanks

[@AintScaredGarage]

Glad you liked it!

[@Sncedayone]

Thanks for the video it was very educational!

[@AintScaredGarage]

Glad it was helpful!

[@Rail_Pass_Nightmare]

I have a Ford flare side, Just like that, full of the plastic vacuum lines that are pretty rotten and break off easily. Your video had me howling at the TV about how to do stuff. You got a wonder what Ford was thinking?… anyway buddy, Have at it.

[@AintScaredGarage]

If you dont say Fn Ford at least one time when doing a repair, your not working on a Ford, LOL

[@TrickShiftGarage]

Good video man, really good tips in there. Thanks for sharing. 🤟

[@AintScaredGarage]

Thanks, I try to show the silly little tips I come up with if I can, I'm thinking about in the future getting the colored lines and redo them all, but that has to wait, the plan is to eventually put a 302 in her, but thats going to be a while LOL, Hey you got a cool channel as well, good stuff

[@TrickShiftGarage]

@@AintScaredGarage thanks man we really appreciate that!

[@dprules12]

Thank you for this awesome video you helped me out to the fullest you are greatly appreciated sir keep up the great work and videos. Thank you

[@AintScaredGarage]

Well thanks again, and I plan on after this dang cold weather goes away re doing the whole thing again with new colored plastic lines, I will video that and again Thanks

[@Llll-o3h]

I have a 95 Blazer with tbe exact issue. Any chance you could tell me where the vacuum lines are located ? Thank yoi for you time

[@AintScaredGarage]

I'm not much of a Chevy guy so I wouldn't know off hand

[@joemiele1296]

Good video. Just FYI. The vac line going to the side of evaporator box is actually a vac reservoir. The bean can you replaced is for emissions.

[@AintScaredGarage]

So there is another reservoir inside of the evaporator box? Please let me know, thats what this channels about people helping people, and always, if you see me do something wrong or miss something please let me know, I welcome it, it helps us all learn, Thanks

[@joemiele1296]

@@AintScaredGarage just follow the vac line to the evap box it is attached to the side of the box. I had my evap out for cleaning the other day and noticed it. It doesn't go in to the evap box. Just part of the cover.

[@Maples01]

I have a plastic vac can on the drivers side of my van, and the metal bean can under the battery on the passenger side, pretty irritating fixing all the lines as there are many, the next issue on the big six, and all others is the ECM, the capacitors leak, so they require replacement, so once you fix all the vacuum leaks, and it still doesn't run right, that will likely be the issue. Mine doesn't like to idle after a restart when warm, requires a rev of the throttle to get it to idle correctly, I've not checked fuel pressure, timing has been screwed with so much it spark knocks under load at times.

[@garylovelace711]

Heres a little trick. Use copper tubing the mice can't eat them. Exhaust wont burn them. I used oil pressure kit. Working perfectly.

[@AintScaredGarage]

Thanks for the info

[@Javimoz]

In my 1991 Ford F-150 straight 6, I have the map sensor vacuum line connected to the fuel pressure regulator . I noticed yours is connected to something else. Can that be the cause of my high idle? Thanks for your help . I’m a subscriber

[@AintScaredGarage]

OK so both of those should be connected to Manifold vacuum and not to each other, the only caveat to that would be if the are tee'd off of a manifold vacuum line that is supplying Manifold Vacuum to them both, I'm putting together a short video for you on this, look for it in a day or 2

[@AintScaredGarage]

So I hope this helps kzbin.info/www/bejne/i4nGm3WBjd-Gj7s

[@jamesdyson9185]

Can't find a vacuum canister that fits my 89 town car. Called many junkyards. No luck. Any ideas where I could find one?

[@AintScaredGarage]

Actually yes, you can use any vacuum canister from any manufacturer as long as it has 2 vacuum ports on it, there all the came inside

[@socratesedgaralbinosanti-jq1rc]

I can no longer find any more of those new replacement canisters available for the F-150 4.9L. Please help. 😢

[@AintScaredGarage]

I dont know where they went but you are correct, they have dried up, so the thing is, its an empty can, there is nothing in it, I would have to believe that any vacuum reserve canisters will do, It doesn't have to be the Bean Can, they all do the same thing, just get one for something else that has 3 ports on it and you should be fime

[@exoticchicken696]

Currently replacing the vacuum lines on my 90s F-150 with a 351W in it and the lines are all sorts of fuked up if yall got any tips I’ll take em

[@AintScaredGarage]

There should be a vacuum diagram on the underside of the hood

[@hrodriguez112]

thank you boss!

[@AintScaredGarage]

You're welcome!

[@pedrolara1169]

Muchísimas Gracias 😊

[@AintScaredGarage]

Your Welcome

[@SuperPero56]

What type of sealer were you using in the yellow can?

[@AintScaredGarage]

Thats called liquid electric tape, you can use RTV as well, just make sure you dont clog the hose, I'm going to do another video on his some time but this will get you started in the right direction

[@calvinfinch1746]

I have a 92 ford f150 5.0 efi which im going to change out the blower motor resister wich has a 250 and 300 degree resister listed for replacements at parts store. Will 300 cause any problems if install that one.

[@AintScaredGarage]

I'm not sure, But I did find this, they say its interchangeable but one guy put in a 250 and it didn't work, but the 300 did, sorry I couldn't just give you an answer but thats a new on me www.f150forum.com/f10/blower-motor-resistor-question-484411/

[@bobcrowley625]

i see a fluid dripping out of the door controller for heat/ac/defrost, when you push it back and forth, should the controller have a fluid in it, what is it?? another question, some of those lines appear to be about .5mm, which is tiny but your replacing with 3/16th, does it not matter what the hoses inside diameter??

[@AintScaredGarage]

My guess is that water was in it from it not being hooked up to vacuum for so long, and no there shouldn't be water in it, as for the size of the line's i really don't know if they have to be a certain size, what I think is no matter the size of the line as long as its not a huge difference it should still be carrying the same inches of vacuum, if someone else has better answer for this please let us know, I haven't had any vacuum related problems however

[@AintScaredGarage]

By the way I was wrong about that door controller, that one is for the fresh air only it controls if you're on resuscitation or if you're pulling in air from outside, the bend door is inside the HVAC system itself

[@bobcrowley625]

oh thank you for all the answers, hey i got it going, thanks to you:)

[@jimmykent6545]

I have a vacuum issue behind my plenum that I think may be a small clear plastic box . I'm like you in not wanting to pull my plenum. Trying to find out more info on the small clear box if anyone can help. I'm having unstable idle .

[@AintScaredGarage]

Reach under the plenum in the back, the PCV valve tends to come out of the Valve cover, you should be able to feel it there

[@KeanuReevesBoss429]

The link you provided doesn’t sell the vacuum canister anymore, do you have any other advice on how to get one?

[@AintScaredGarage]

You will have to do some searching, I've noticed that tose things have become hard to find, I did find this, see if you can get it here www.fordpartsgiant.com/oem-1995-ford-f_150-vapor_canister.html

[@KeanuReevesBoss429]

@@AintScaredGarage I might have to repurpose the one I have, thank you anyways.

[@philsketball]

What is the black glue stuff?

[@AintScaredGarage]

That's called Liquid Electrical Tape, you can get it at your local parts store, Just be careful with it so you don't get it inside the Vacuum line and clog it, Thanks Ed

[@Roush435]

What size is the vaccum line you did first?

[@AintScaredGarage]

I really dont remember, sorry

[@garylovelace711]

Put a new ICM module. And a new temp sensor. It will run much better.

[@AintScaredGarage]

I checked the ICM and its fine, also new Temp, Knock, TPS, Intake Air Temp, MAP, EGO, you name it, but its running much better now, this is an old video, LOL, Thanks

[@estebanpulliese9486]

Gracias por este video, mañana hago funcionar la calefaccion y las ventanas del ventilador, aca en argentina no hay nada en español....

[@AintScaredGarage]

No problem, I hope it helps, like I said I show how I do things, it may not always be the right thing, but it's what works for me, Thanks for watching

[@jeffreyfullwood6417]

Heater core heats up hot but cold air coming out of defrost and floor . Blend door is electric and is working . F350 , can you help ?

[@AintScaredGarage]

I'm really not ignoring you, I'm just not sure what to tell you, First what year is the truck. So the way the blend air door works is it blocks off the heater core and air blows thru the AC condenser/Evaporator, the one that gets cold LOL {I can fix them but I always mix up the names}, of course it doesn't cool the air unless the compressor is on, so what may be happening is the actuator in moving but the door is not so it doesn't un block the heater core, Strappy is not running right now as this last job ballooned on me way past anything I was planning so I cant use her as an example, but I should have back together soon and will try to make a short video of whats a possible fix, oh, and you can take off the glove box for easier access to the HVAC system as well, I will get back to you after I the old truck running again, and if you get it fixed let me know what it was.

[@jeffreyfullwood6417]

@@AintScaredGarage Thank you . Ya I had the glove box off and the cover off heater core . I could then see the blend door . It definitely opens and closes . Heater core heats up hot , but the heat doesn't make it to the floor or the defrost . Seems a very short distance for it to travel 🤔

[@jeffreyfullwood6417]

It's a 1997 Ford F350 / 7.5 litre

[@danielpadgett2831]

Can you give me the exact name of the canister you replaced on rock auto I can't find it on there web site

[@AintScaredGarage]

It's a Vacuum canister and you may find it hard to locate one today, its crazy but they have become very hard to find new. any vacuum canister should work as long as it has 2 ports, if you can find a 96 in a junk yard it should have a plastic one on it, and that should work fine, or on ebay

[@joshuabrechlin899]

He cut a hose on top a heater hose 4:05

[@AintScaredGarage]

Ha Ha, like I said, don't do what what I do LOL

[@jrbarden80]

Can you link to the replacement canister?

[@AintScaredGarage]

Sorry about that, here you go www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000O0ULY6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[@2Spookeh4Me]

There's a bundle of vacuum lines that goes to the Fuel regulator (red) and the throttle body (Green) but i can't for the life of me figure out where the whiter one goes. Please help!

[@AintScaredGarage]

I know there is a white one on mine that comes out of the HVAC system to the vent actuator all the way on the right hand side of the firewall

[@2Spookeh4Me]

@@AintScaredGarage I actually just figured it out. It goes right under the vacuum looking contraption that the fuel/vapor hose also connects too right above the brake booster. Thanks for the reply nonetheless!

[@johncasor9698]

what year is that truck ??? Paint is cheap so paint the yellow pink ....

[@AintScaredGarage]

1995 and yes I could do that, but I'm lazy LOL

[@dylantomlinson2305]

I did the same thing, got ac in all vents but air compressor started smoking anyone know what I need to do next?

[@AintScaredGarage]

I don't know but, I would pull the clutch apart on the front of the compressor and clean all the contacts up and put it back together it may not be engaging right, just keep track of the Shims/Spacers so that you put them back in the same way the came out

[@dennissecor8092]

That actuator i believe is actually the fresh air mode door and recirc on my 1992, that is working fine, i can see it move, when i remove the vacuum hose, but under the dash, to the right of the ashtray is an actuator, with a blue vacuum hose going to it, but it doesnt have vacuum, whenbi push the actuator manually, it starts blowing through the vents, when i pull a vacuum on the actuator, it works?

[@AintScaredGarage]

I do believe you are correct, that would be the fresh are door, thank you, also there are 3 vacuum lines that I know of under the hood that work with the Heat and AC, there is the white line that comes out of the firewall and goes to the Fresh air actuator, and then there are 2 more that go into it, there is a black line that comes from the Manifold vacuum and goes into the firewall at the same place the white one comes out of it, and there is another line that T's off of that black line that goes into the Heat and AC box on the top and towards the motor side, just under the MAP sensor, make sure they are all hooked up and if so you may be looking at a bad AC/Heater control panel, but check all 3 of those lines first

[@grantfreeman5327]

Get monetization on your vids man I know it won't be much but you'll make a buck or two doing it

[@AintScaredGarage]

I still need 400 more Subscribers before I can get monetized, Thanks

[@codnak9173]

Why the music bro? Why?

[@AintScaredGarage]

Thats an easy one, I was still learning and thought it would make a better video, if you watch my later videos you will find I have almost no music in them, even when I go back and watch those videos with music in them, I dont like it, however, seeing this is my top viewed video, I'm not changing it, Thanks for the comment, these comments help me learn what you all want in a video, again Thanks

[@darrens1322]

🙉😖

[@AintScaredGarage]

Thanks for the reply

[@theweldspecial5164]

Would a vacuum leak cause a transmission to hard shift/ stall out truck. 91 f150 302. Any response helps.

[@AintScaredGarage]

I dont know but that is an issue with these trucks, mine is a manual, but if you do a KZbin search on hard shifting on an OBS Ford you will get a lot of information

[@theweldspecial5164]

@@AintScaredGarage ill look into it. I had a line off the throttle body that was disconnected. It is in between top an bottom port, point out towards passenger. 1/4 in in diameter. Put what hose i think goes on it back on.

[@Franksturrr]

@@theweldspecial5164 i have the same problem, any thing you did to fix it?

[@theweldspecial5164]

@@Franksturrr check your vacuum lines an in front of or front left (toward intake plenum) make sure thats connected should be 2 wires.

[@Franksturrr]

@@theweldspecial5164 and that fixed the stuttering?