Oil Analysis: Valvoline Restore & Protect (~9,000 Miles)

[@usocrazy6133]

Excellent UOA report, especially with such high mileage. He could easily go beyond 500K miles.

[@MidwestF150]

Right??! I was just telling him I had a 2008 Acura MDX, I got it to 240K miles before trading it in for my truck. There was NOTHING wrong with the engine. I feel like I could’ve gotten another 100K miles out of the MDX engine lol

[@Vultain]

Thank you for your videos. One thing I have seen in Valvoline restore and protect it seems like it gets full around 3000 miles. People rarely burn oil before that. But somewhere between mile 3000-4000 of the oil it starts to burn. The oil itself seems to be able to go further but I think it is the contaminants suspended within the oil itself. I've watched a ton of dissection on this oil and I remember one video pointed out the as to why it is. It also likely depends on what vehicle the oil is in as well. I would love to be able to get some 10W40 for my 22RE 1988 Toyota Pickup Truck. Or pretty much a Toyota Hilux for those outside the US. I could likely use some 5W30 during winter but for hauling purposes that oil just isn't thick enough from a wear and tear standpoint. I usually use 10W40 classic car oil in it. Speaking of which HPL is a good alternative which cleans well in a different capacity. One advantage is they have different viscosities. But unlike Restore and Protect it is more expensive and less of a gentle clean. The suggestion is to run a single 2000 mile cycle or 90 days with their HPL Gentle Cleaner along with a conventional oil ideally. Or two 1000 mile cycles for an engine with an unknown history. Bobistheoilguy has some excellent things on the topic. From what I can tell restore and protect is amazing for the money. And will get you 80% of the way there. HPL is a notch above in terms of cleaning and wear protection but it's also a boutique oil at roughly double the price. They have an additive the HPL Cleaner which is more gentle like restore and protect. But the actual HPL Oil they make is extremely aggressive. It could be a good switch when you're done doing 4 cycles of restore and protect though. HPL makes three different oil grades depending on the consumer. I tend to short trip my vehicle so at that point you're better off with their cheapest option because fuel dilution is a big concern. But for some individuals they make two grades above their standard consumer grade oil. I figured it could be fun for you to try sometime after you're done with restore and protect and want to step into the next level.

[@MidwestF150]

Thanks for sharing your experience, I'll definitely check out those resources! I have never heard of HPL before though. Did you come across it on the BobOil?

[@Vultain]

@MidwestF150 You're welcome for the information! I am glad that it can be of assistance! HPL stands for High Performance Lubricants. They are a boutique oil company reminiscent of Lake Speed Junior. Full of a bunch of tribologists. But if you want detailed information on it Bobistheoilguy forums has it. They are a sponsor of the site. You can also email or call them and they'll try and give recommendations for your particular engine. I have an older flat tappet cam engine for my Toyota. HPL recommended me their classic formula to try and work the best with older metallurgy within the engine. It's to stop excessive crankshaft wear and the engine sounds better for it. HPL are also known to have arguably one of the best transmission oils in the business. I haven't tried their small engine oil yet but I was going to give it a whirl in my equipment next year and see how it compares to Amsoil which I have been using. So far I have only played with HPL's gentle cleaner. What it got out of my old truck is downright astounding! I will recommend WIX XP, I found the flow of it worked better if you are doing severe duty changes compared to other filters I have tried. I did try a run with the Fram Synthetic Endurance and I wasn't a fan. I have heard if you have a high pressure oil pump though you can run the newer Fram Synthetic Endurance just fine. I found when I have tried to use it in the old 22RE the engine takes longer to warm up. I think those old Toyota's were made for high oil flow and something constricting isn't the best. I have an old Chrysler though I am putting through it's paces and the pressure is much higher and I have no such issues. It's interesting to see your thoughts on all the filters as well. The only reason I don't use the Boss Filter is since we have the WIX XP as an option. I also have tried the stock toyota filters. Admittedly the engine sounds the best with them but they are cellulose filters and if you are trying to clean up the engine probably not the best idea from a contamination holding perspective. I think once you get your engine clean. I would want to stick with whatever allowed the most oil flow. A stronger filter isn't always worth it if your engine starves for oil.

[@MidwestF150]

@@Vultain first of all, thanks so much for checking out my other videos! Those take a lot of work to film and edit! I’ll have to look at HPL! I live nearby a company called Lube-Tech, which I think is along the lines of what you’re describing-I could be wrong though! Reason why I went with Purolator is because of the quality for price. I honestly did not think much about flow, and prioritized filtration for engine cleanliness. I feel like the Purolator Boss strikes the perfect balance between what you get and what you pay. WixXP quality is good, but I don’t want to use the cellulose. I read somewhere they used to make the WixXP with a synthetic media-do you know if that is true?

[@Vultain]

@MidwestF150 You're very welcome! Same thing goes for actually testing everything! I genuinely appreciate it! I get to test things but it is more through owning two vehicles and doing oil changes in friend's vehicles as well. That said editing is enormous as is filming! I hope that you like HPL when and if you do get a chance to try it, Dave is a great guy too! That's cool and I have heard of Lube Tech but nothing comes to mind. So cellulose vs synthetic media. There are actually pros and cons. Synthetic media can filter better long term and it often lasts up to a year at a time. One thing to consider with cellulose media is it isn't a bad thing. Lake Speed Junior delves into it in one of his Q&A. Cellulose media actually holds more debris and puts less pressure on an oil pump. He said as long as you keep your oil change interval to no more than 6 months Wix was about the best in his opinion for filtering. They actually had the current Wix design made for back when he worked on race engines as a solution to a problem. Honestly I tend to keep my oil changed down to three month intervals myself due to the conditions of where I live and short tripping. At least in the truck. I don't change my oil as often in the passenger car and often use a synthetic filter due to that. Currently my car has 5W30 restore and protect in it with a Fram Synthetic Endurance, my truck has a Wix XP Filter on it due to the oil changed out every 3000 miles or 3 months. The truck is often used a commuter but if there is snow on the ground the car has studded tires and is weighted down and I take it instead. Otherwise it often only sees use on road trips or driven every two weeks. We have huge air pollution between winter road salt, pollen, fire season, mold spores, and are in a valley surrounded by mountains where nothing seems to air out. Air pollution year around is 70-400 PPM. Given that I feel we are an ideal testing ground for a lot of this stuff. The Wix filters prioritize flow but they filter amazingly well too. So Toyota filter flow but they catch about as much as the Synthetic Endurance. They just go about saying things in such a way that it is complex. The Boss isn't a bad filter. I hear good things especially for vehicles that people add bypass filters onto them. That said it's a notch down in terms of what it will catch. It's a good middling ground and I know popular with the Ford crowd.

[@Vultain]

@MidwestF150 It used to be made out of synthetic media. Currently they keep changing hands. Thankfully it seems like they are done being made in China and are back under USA ownership. Cellulose when low quality is a problem or extended intervals. But there is zero issues for short intervals like you would find in restore and protect. I don't see any situation where it is ideal to run your filter that many miles or months with that oil in it to justify synthetic media.

[@richarddavis6133]

I switched from Royal Purple and consistantly get 8-10 % better mpg. I was shocked.

[@MidwestF150]

@@richarddavis6133 hi Richard! Wow, that’s impressive! Are you planning to run the Valvoline indefinitely?

[@IND4GR0V3]

How well does VRP protect under extreme conditions? Ive been running purple for years in many different vehicles for this reason alone.

[@Fennec1919]

Valvoline R&P is doing some things, and it will be better means less consumption after 4 to 5 oil changes

[@MidwestF150]

@@Fennec1919 hey Fennec, my thoughts are the same! Are you using Valvoline now?

[@fvargas9026]

Hey bro I’ll be doing an oil analysis at 3500 with R&P on my 2.7 would you be interested in the result ?

[@MidwestF150]

Hey brother, how’s it going? And Yes, For sure! I think it’ll be cool to put a video together and get some dialogue going with folks in the community.

[@fvargas9026]

@@MidwestF150 sick it won’t be for another 2-3 months though but I’ll definitely keep you posted !