Oliver Power Steering Conversion Part 2

[@brianchilders6535]

Great video as always. The telescopic function on my 1650 is giving me fits When I tighten the chrome knob the wheel still moves in and out freely. I've taken it apart; everything seems to be there, and I don't see any damage.

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

You have to be careful about over lubrication inside the column. When you tighten the chrome knob, it draws the 2 halves together, and the angle forces them to go sideways and bind againt the tube they are in. Too greasy and they can't grab. Also, check the bottom of the long 5/16 bolt that goes through the middle of it all. If it isn't catching in the shaft, it will spin but not tighten up.

[@richardpeoples2887]

Great job, especially appreciate keeping the telescoping function.

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

Alan loves it. I've already done it on Herman, and I will do the same for the 1600.

[@m16ty]

I'm in the middle of this conversion myself. What I ran into is the splined adapter I ordered (same part number as Chris listed) was a lot longer than the one in the video. It took a couple of cuts to the adapter and test fitting to get the length right.

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

I must not have put in that I cut the splined adapter in half, taking off the unsplined end. Sorry about that.

[@m16ty]

@@ThatOliverGuyChris It was no problem. Yes, I had to cut the adapter pretty much in half. The overall length is pretty critical to fit the outer tube. The issue I have now is some of the fittings are backordered from Clearwater, I'm going to go to the local hydraulic shop and see if they can help.

[@pagrainfarmer]

I like all your videos. Your "how to" ones really help me understand my Oliver and White tractors better, and I like that. Thank you.

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

Thank you for watching!

[@millardhayes1884]

Chris to me your a Oliver genius. Your are really good at this stuff.

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

Thank you!

[@aaronkaraszewski2749]

Another great Tech Video! Thanks for listing all the parts and numbers very help full. Our one 1800 had a char-lyn conversion done before we got it and alos my 1950T has it also. They really are much nicer to steer. Thanks Chris

[@aaronkaraszewski2749]

Hey Chris if you had to estimate how much would this cost in parts? I know you made the hoses and all, just wondering if its worth doing to the 1850.

[@petepeeff5807]

Thanks so much for the detailed parts list.This is so valuable to the next generation of Oliver owners. 👍👍Now all I have to do is save up to do my 1850 and 1950 and get rid of that annoying siagnaw leak.

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

There are kits out there with everything you need, but the replacement column doesn't telescope, and you get a cheesy steering wheel without the Oliver beauty cap. This is the best of both worlds, and cheaper too.

[@chriszenker2468]

Hi Chris you do really quality videos they would make your Dad and granddad proud.

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

Thanks Chris, I appreciate that.

[@johndavidstutts]

I got your basic kit. In the lowest position my column hit the dash before engaging the detent. I had to weld up the hole and predrill to get to clear the dash.

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

I had trouble with that too. It took some tweaking, but I was able to get it to work.

[@johndavidstutts]

If I cut spline adapter at splines and weld to my shaft where I cut off old splines, it's to long to fit in tube and get it to clamp to motor. Was thinking cut some off top of shaft?.

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

@@johndavidstutts How much are you lacking? I didn't push the original outer tube all the way onto the adapter stub shaft assembly, or it would be too long. I only put it on about the same depth it was on the saginaw unit, maybe just a little more.

[@johndavidstutts]

@@ThatOliverGuyChris if my measurements were right. It was about 1/2 above the collar around the stem. I'll try to get an actual measurement tomorrow. I was gonna cut it off the top. Gotta get her going, the farmall don't do good in the cold

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

​ @Brian Sutton If anything, I'd cut the internal splined coupler a little shorter. Maybe take some off the each end. Try to test fit it all with a tack weld before final welding.

[@dougschmitii6165]

Perfect timing! I'm thinking I'm going to have to do this soon on my 1650, and I don't think the 1750 is far behind it. I've been dreading doing this, but you make it look easy. Thank you very much for making this video and adding all the info!

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

It makes such a huge difference, I don't even think about trying to fix the Saginaw unit. Not that they are fixable anyways. There are complete kits available, but they use a new steering column and wheel. You lose the telescoping feature as well as the originality, that's why I did it this way. From the outside it looks factory, and it's less money.

[@jeffslaney4440]

What is the part number for the power steering cylinder seal kit? Can’t find it anywhere I have the number for the quad-ring seal but none of the other seals

[@jakeneal1883]

Hello sir was curious as to what pumo u would recommend really need to get my tractor going and thats the only thing i gotta do. Just read ur list of parts and didnt know if u had a part number thanks so much great content

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

I used to have a link to the pump, but they discontinued it and replaced it with another. Call Midwest Steering, tell them you need an open center, non load reaction steering motor. Something with about 5 cubic inches of displacement. They know their stuff and will get you what you need.

[@3474jason]

Nice video I am going to copy that for my 1550 during mud season I am happy you did that it makes total sense

[@chriscarlson-meyer4979]

Watching you work on your tractor instead of working on my tractor... Keep up the good work!

[@SouthSaskFarmer1]

Fancy factory harness even lol don't ya know it works better though when all the wires are the same color of red from the roll in the corner of the shop lol

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

Lol

[@m.j.l.abulle9107]

Some pointers from Chris for the White 105 ? lol

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

As I've said for some time, the copper doesn't know what color the insulation is.

[@m.j.l.abulle9107]

Kindred spirits , I know the satisfaction one gets from restoring to full use the tractors from former times , in my case it's a JD 3130 & it's an inner glow every time it gets used for serious farm work !

[@GosselinFarmsEdGosselin]

@@ThatOliverGuyChris very true!! For years, Freightliner used all white wires in the cab and Engine compartment... But they all had steel tags crimped on each end👌👍 Only colored wires were to the trailer plug.

[@dieselman8v923]

Did you put the fast or slower steering motor in Herman? I have a 2050 FWA I am considering doing the swap on.

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

I put the fast one in Herman. He takes about 4 1/2 turns of the steering wheel stop to stop.

[@jasonfilipp5848]

The telescopic rod on my 1650 is pretty rusted up, any hints on what to expect. It slides in and out, just won't turn to lock position. Thanks. JF

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

The long 5/16 bolt that goes all the way through the center up to the chrome cap could have snapped, or it could have rusted enough on the bottom end to where it can't grab enough to keep it from spinning. Other than its length, it's not a special bolt. You could make a new one with some all thread and a nut welded on one end, or a really long bolt.

[@jasonfilipp5848]

So to get to it, do I have to remove the clamp under the beauty plate to get the outer tube off. JF

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

Yes. You'll have to get the column assembly off the steering motor to slide everything out of the tube. Take off the nut that hides under the center cap of the chrome knob. You'll be able to take the chrome knob off and pull the steering wheel with the outer half of the shaft. That long 5/16 bolt will still be in there, but you'll at least be able to tell if it is broken at that point. To go any further you'll have to loosen that clamp under the beauty plate to get the outer tube off so you can detach it from the motor.

[@burningdinosaurs]

LOVE THIS VIDEO!! This is right up my alley! Makin stuff work, making new parts, fabricating, Making Olivers Great Again! #MOGA !! Excellent stuff! Congrats on getting the lines right first try too!! That never happens! If there's a 50/50 chance, 80% of the time it'll be wrong! Thanks for the video!

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

Truth in advertising.... I was explaining to Alan how I followed the lines to figure out which was which, when I realized I had it backwards. Fortunately that was before I ever fired it up, so I'm still counting it as a win. 😂😂😎

[@mischef18]

Made for a good viewing video bro, thanks for sharing. Safe travels

[@dougschmitii6165]

In the description you stated some of us may not like the higher capacity motor. Is that because the higher capacity one will be more responsive at higher speeds because of the fewer revolutions it takes. I have a loader on my 1650 also so the higher capacity motor sounds like the one to go with

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

Yep. This 1650 zips down the road about 20 mph, and it handled fine in my opinion. The little bit I ran it, I really liked that it didn't take a lot of arm movement to steer doing loader work. The steering motor holds position very well, so as long as tie rods and such are in good shape, it should be fine. I just wanted to put the option out there for those that might not want something that steers quickly. If the tractor does more road work like hauling wagons or even tractor rides, they might want to go with the smaller displacement.

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

Also, there are some Olivers that have the high speed transmission option along with an over/under. They can top 30 mph with the right tires. I would definitely go with the smaller displacement motor in that situation.

[@dougschmitii6165]

@@ThatOliverGuyChris thank you!

[@jackbrown3605]

I have look at the midwest steering and It seems there is no details about each pump. I have a 1650 2 wheel drive. I need the number for the open center valve that will work. I look and saw a white one on mailbach will that work? I need help sorting this out.

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

This is the one I recently ordered for the 1850 2wd. www.midweststeering.com/product/gs21080a-4-83-cu-inch-steering-valve/ It's 4.83 cubic inches displacement, which should get you about 4 turns of the steering wheel to go from full left to full right.

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

This one is 6 cubic inches displacement, it should be about 3 turns of the steering wheel. www.midweststeering.com/product/gs21100a-6-0-cu-inch-steering-valve-non-load-reaction/ I put a 7.83 cubic inch in Alan's 1650 and that is only 2-1/2 turns stop to stop. Great for loader work, but maybe a touch fast for going down the road.

[@79mkv]

Spectacular. Thank you for sharing your time and knowledge with us.

[@GosselinFarmsEdGosselin]

And yet another job well done!

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

Thanks, Ed!

[@kentjohnson5544]

You do nice work.

[@arnoldaltjr.2099]

I need to replace the seals on a Char-Lynn steering unit behind dash on an Oliver 1850. Have you ever done a video on this job? Thanks

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

Sorry, no video on that. It's fairly straightforward. Must be your 1850 has been updated?

[@twylaclark-xn7wx]

Do the FWA tractors require more cubic inches of displacement than the 2 wheel drive tractors? I see you used a 7.5 cu unit on Herman, but recommend a 5-6 cu on the 1650.

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

The fwa does take a little more. With the 7.56 in Herman it takes 3-1/2 turns of the steering wheel to go from full left to full right, and I really like it. I used that same 7.56 model in Alan's 2wd 1650 and that only takes 2-1/2 turns to go from full left to full right. For loader work, that's really nice, but going down the road, it's getting on the fast side. The 5 cubic inch should be right around 4 full turns of the steering wheel from stop to stop, which is pretty close to normal, that's why I put it out there.

[@hughperkins707]

Your videos are great, everything explained perfectly. Thnx

[@jamesbergfeld5923]

I don’t see five different modules under that dash. Back when wiring was a lot simpler.

[@robertdaly9036]

Excellent video as always. 👍👍

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

Thank you!

[@scruffy6151]

Well done. 👍

[@joenagy5803]

I did this convertion using a chat Lynn from a 105 white. Now my hydraulic lines get really hot like there is a blockage. Any ideas would really be helpful.

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

Which tractor did you put it on?

[@joenagy5803]

1800 c

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

@@joenagy5803 The 2-105 is a closed center hydraulic system, and the steering motor is set up for that. It only allows oil through when you steer, so it is dead heading the flow from the priority valve. That's what is causing the heat. You need a steering motor that is for open center hydraulics

[@joenagy5803]

I wondered about that but wasn't sure. Thank you for the knowledge.

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

@@joenagy5803 Glad to help.

[@randykrochak1185]

I made that bracket from a 2-85 used a steering valve from a TR 85 to fit a 1850 Cockshutt also used the tube and shaft frame 2-155 Been a few years, lol

[@Adam_Poirier]

Love the shop videos!

[@davidcrawford1085]

Like seeing all these tractors you have. I have a 8600 White Harvest Boss combine and i'm in Canada just not from London ON. and i'm looking for 2 yokes that are at the bottom of the loading shut and there's a 2 universal join there and mine is one and five sixteenth shafts but the first White 8600 have just the small inch shaft, do you know anyone that would have them in Michigan?

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

Worthington ag parts might. They have a Combine salvage yard near St. Johns.

[@jeffgrier8488]

That's a nice, clean looking installation!

[@johndavidstutts]

Thanks for the video and part numbers. Looks like I better get my 1750 in the shop. Should this basic set up work on my 1750?

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

Yes. The hose lengths might be a little different, but everything else should be indentical.

[@johndavidstutts]

@@ThatOliverGuyChris what do you think you got in it, money wise?

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

I'd say right around $600. I'm not sure what it would cost to have someone make the hoses since I make my own.

[@johndavidstutts]

@@ThatOliverGuyChris do you know what the factory pump displaces?

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

Not off the top of my head. It's rated at 20 gallons per minute at full rpm, the priority valve sends about 5 of that through the steering, so you end up with about 15 gpm for the remotes and 3 point.

[@TheJohndeere466]

Did you know what an oliver 1555 loader special would be worth. Its all painted up and looks like new but it doesnt have an over under or hydraulics or 3 point.

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

Not sure what to say. I'd say 5k for a typical 1555 around here

[@TheJohndeere466]

@@ThatOliverGuyChris I was just wondering if the loader special gave it more value. It seems like it be less but I guess they were pretty rare

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

They are pretty rare. I don't ever see them in Michigan, for sale often, so it is hard to say how much it adds to the value

[@clydeschwartz2167]

The 1555 oliver loader special were more popular in the Dakotas and Iowa and Minnesota and the western states they were designed to be used with Farm hand loader and small square bale accumulator then you could grab 8 bales at a time and make stacks or load wagons. My neighbor has one that is a gas 1555 but no loader for it.

[@TheJohndeere466]

@@clydeschwartz2167 This one is in ohio and also has no loader.

[@michaelfreehling113]

Great instruction. Have a 1555 that needs new motor. Current one is leaking. Was wonder what the name of your bumper music is I want to play it while doing repair to speed it up lol. Thanks for taking time to do videos

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

It's called front porch blues. It's from KZbin's royalty free collection, coming to a record store near you. Lol

[@mikehill9888]

Looks good

[@Murphyslawfarm]

G'day Chris cool video

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

Thanks, Murphy!

[@billbaas1402]

Can you get a wiring harness for lights on a 1650 and a 1850?

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

Not for the lights, just the engine.

[@98tractorboy]

Wait where is part 1

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/fqC9nmuFp6iXaZY

[@98tractorboy]

@@ThatOliverGuyChris ok thanks i guess i missed that one

[@clydeschwartz2167]

Excellent video keep up the great videos 👍👍👍👍is the swept back axle a common thing I have never seen that before on a Oliver. Could that be used to replace the wide front? My neighbor has a 1650 oliver with a really light looking front end with really tiny spindles I told him there is no way they could hold up for loader work i think it's a Nordin or some aftermarket front axle

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

The swept back axle isn't very common, but they are out there. Some guys hate them, some love them. They can be swapped out with any of the front axles that Oliver offered for the 1650. We have a 1600 that had a Schwartz wide front on it when we bought it. Didn't take dad long to find an Oliver axle to put under there!

[@clydeschwartz2167]

@@ThatOliverGuyChris ok thanks that makes sense I will tell my neighbor that it may be s Schwartz front end it's extremely light looking front end

[@timbrand8315]

Hey chris mint video as always.

[@shaunault7538]

nice vid

[@colenordick7674]

I just did the conversion. You have to put a little effort to start turning the steering wheel. Once you start turning it turns very easy. If you stop turning, then it takes a small effort to start turning again. Is this normal?

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

Typically it takes no extra effort to start turning, but I do have a couple of tractors with the factory char lynn that can be that way in cold weather. They are fine once they warm up. You must be getting good pressure and flow or it would turn hard all the time. Did you buy a new steering motor, is it open center?

[@colenordick7674]

@@ThatOliverGuyChris Yes, it is a new one from Midwest Steering. I went with a 6cu. in. It is open center. I called them. They didn't have a good reason as to why. I bought it almost 2 years ago so it's off warranty but just got it installed.

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

@@colenordick7674 I've installed 2 units from them and have a third to do this winter. The 2 installed units work great. I'm not sure what to tell you at this point. There might be an internal valve that sticks from sitting for a couple years and might free up with use. The other thing would be to tear it down and inspect.

[@colenordick7674]

@@ThatOliverGuyChris Thanks!

[@chrisbeck8182]

Nice work, Chris. You’re a true engineer that’s moonlighting as a farmer!

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

Thanks!

[@nilsgraham7978]

I own a Oliver 1850 year 1969 it has a blown engine it blew out the block I would like to know can I put a Cummins in it I am doing a complete rebuild on it

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

Yep. If it was a gas engine, you'll need to knock out the motor mounts in the frame to get the cummins to drop in. If you have a diesel, the Cummins fits nicely.

[@nilsgraham7978]

@@ThatOliverGuyChris it has a diesel in it so Cummins should fit then thank you

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

Yep. This website has some great info on conversions, and he has many of the parts needed to do it. msfparts.com/blogs/news