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How To Catch A Green Wave?

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Ombe Surf

Ombe Surf

Күн бұрын

Пікірлер: 227
@lucasf2628
@lucasf2628 3 жыл бұрын
this is the most helpful video I've seen about surfing. I went from occasionally catching waves to consistently catching waves in 1 day. I also paddled less than I ever have and caught 5x as many waves. thank you so much for this.
@ombesurf
@ombesurf 3 жыл бұрын
That is epic Lucas!! Please share the knowledge with others!!
@alexhan2773
@alexhan2773 2 жыл бұрын
Cannot agree more. This is by far the most instructional video about surfing on youtube for beginners like me. After watching video, now i understand why i was either nose diving or letting waves just pass by me(despite all that paddling..) I just had to arch my back and slightly push down my tail, so I could use that energy from the wave to push me 'forward'.
@tim.jenkins75
@tim.jenkins75 Күн бұрын
49 year old newbie.... this is priceless. Strong paddling for position onto the wave not to keep up with the wave.....game changer !
@ombesurf
@ombesurf Күн бұрын
Now you know you have the advantage
@tckimx
@tckimx 2 жыл бұрын
Wtf! I’ve been surfing every weekend consistently for the last 11 years and didn’t figure this out on my own? I’m 51 years old (started when I was 40) so I figured everyone catching more waves than me in the water was because they had been surfing all their life. I was the guy thrashing to catch waves thinking I wasn’t a strong enough paddler. Watch out groms! Not only do I have the technique now, but I’ve got power and stamina from 11 years of thrash paddling. 🤣🤣. I tried this technique on my last session and I didn’t miss a wave. Thank you 🙏
@petewinn9882
@petewinn9882 2 жыл бұрын
My wave count easily doubled, after implementing this, and fatigue reduced by half! Limited myself to 2 paddle strokes per wave, and being in the right place and using this technique made it super easy to catch waves.
@jakejp7087
@jakejp7087 Жыл бұрын
Mental how much this has changed my surfing, I've gone from feeding off scraps to catching 90% of waves I go for, just that slight arch of the back has been such a game changer! Thanks so much!
@AAkCN1
@AAkCN1 7 күн бұрын
Woooow. Thanks a lot! Best explanation I have seen so far. Keen on trying to visualise this advice next time around
@ombesurf
@ombesurf 7 күн бұрын
Glad it was helpful!
@tomasabad2507
@tomasabad2507 3 ай бұрын
This video is incredible, I cannot stress how good the explanation was. The Oreo biscuit part was the cherry on the top, it made me understand visually, and feel it physically. Amazing props to you guys
@elikane7701
@elikane7701 2 жыл бұрын
things that longtime proficient surfers do without realizing they do you show and make us see them,and then we think,right, that's exactly what we do.great tips and knowledge that you impart, that can save years of learning
@mojingjingerli8469
@mojingjingerli8469 3 жыл бұрын
Finally I understand why some people catch a wave with only few paddle .Nice !
@ombesurf
@ombesurf 3 жыл бұрын
Happy to help!
@mitchellpotts3609
@mitchellpotts3609 2 жыл бұрын
I have seen guys doing this for years and never understood how they could catch a wave with two paddle strokes. Thanks guys can’t wait to try this!!!
@mitchellpotts3609
@mitchellpotts3609 2 жыл бұрын
Update... tried the oreo this week for a few days caught double the waves i normally catch
@Bartonkaren3
@Bartonkaren3 Жыл бұрын
I have learned so much by watching and listening to you both. Over paddling and not waiting for the wave is something I do a lot. Every good surfer I watch just seems to glide into the wave. I have been able to do that on occasion but couldn’t figure out why I couldn’t do it consistently. This video really helped me to understand what I’m doing wrong and what I can do to correct it. Thank you both.
@DYD2023
@DYD2023 11 ай бұрын
Thanks @ombe surf, this video is a gem. I was struggling for sometime to catch waves mostly because of the madness around paddling and paddling hard. As the coach suggested - feel the wave and glide along, it's working wonders for me. The moment I moved my attention from myself and board to the wave, the game is so much more fun and easy. Thanks again
@marcelhurtado5766
@marcelhurtado5766 3 ай бұрын
very easy to understand. keep putting out more videos! 👍
@ericpercussion
@ericpercussion Жыл бұрын
I just spend my whole day nose diving and whiping out. Now i know why. Will try tomorrow. Thanks guys!
@monizen6380
@monizen6380 3 жыл бұрын
Great tips guys! Thank you so much. I did just that today and caught some fabulous waves hardly paddling ! Thanks
@ombesurf
@ombesurf 3 жыл бұрын
Fantastic Moni!
@joanmisa9591
@joanmisa9591 3 жыл бұрын
I've seen this a few weeks ago. This woman would paddle slowly & calmly, back arched up, chin up. She looked so classy! But most of all, she caught those waves SO easily. This video just confirmed that her way is the way to aim for. Thank you!!
@andreagrimm1408
@andreagrimm1408 Жыл бұрын
The best and only video about catching green waves which makes sense🤩 I tried today and this is really a game changer. Don’t get why coaches and tutorials say keeping head low and paddle insanely. Thanks guys!🤙🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
@tjethridge
@tjethridge 3 ай бұрын
I’m going surfing in Costa Rica in June. Haven’t surfed in 3 or 4 years and I’m 69. So there’s the whole senility thing working against me too. This video is so helpful to get me back in the zone. Join me in CR
@thibautmairesse1374
@thibautmairesse1374 3 жыл бұрын
Thanks again for sharing this video and tips. I have been surfing for about ten years and I am starting to realise that I am doing a lot of things wrong which explain why I am still struggling with wave entry. It feels like I am paddling too hard and never manage to “glide” before making the drop. As a result, I often end up to low on the wave or behind the section / pocket. Please continue to post of this topic; wave entry & gliding
@ombesurf
@ombesurf 3 жыл бұрын
Hey Thibaut, thank you for your comment, if you'd like to get more in depth information about the subject we invite you to get the accelerated surf program: ombe.co/
@mpower2386
@mpower2386 3 жыл бұрын
Brilliant, binging your vids on takeoffs/catching waves as I want to up my wave count and im getting loads of simple pratictal advice. The kettlebell part and the underwater shot of the tail are really great ways to illustrate your points. I was told that I needed to dip my head down on the takeoff to create forward momentum down the face of the wave lol... your approach seems a lot less stressful.. I wont be able to go out for a while but I cant wait to try that oreo method
@gtells
@gtells Жыл бұрын
Hey, OMBE member mostly because of this video. I think about surfing differently now and I’m making progress as an intermediate. I forward this video to buddies who are hungry and deserve an advantage.
@sylvain1865
@sylvain1865 2 жыл бұрын
Amazing, the dumbell on the rear of the board, this explain perfectly the physic.👌
@SpencerBrien22
@SpencerBrien22 3 жыл бұрын
Love this video. Most, most helpful. I've been struggling with catching green waves from the "seated" position and paddling my butt off with very limited success. I get discouraged and tired and end up going to the inside for the scraps and use the "hop-on" technique just to catch something and get some rides. I can't wait to practice this in my next session and increase my wave catching skills. Great stuff, boys. Keep'em comin'.
@cebrenbenson612
@cebrenbenson612 2 ай бұрын
Watched so many videos on this but the way you guys explain the how and why makes so much sense
@benjaminseeloff1527
@benjaminseeloff1527 3 жыл бұрын
Thanks guys I watched your video on pop ups and wow it paid off right away for me. I’ve been sharing your channel with all my surfing buddies. I didn’t think this video would apply to me, but I was wrong again I learned even more about taking off on a wave. You guys are awesome surf rut busters! Keep up the great work.
@ombesurf
@ombesurf 3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for sharing Ben!!
@almonj6269
@almonj6269 2 жыл бұрын
This is the best video I've seen on this topic without question! Absolutely excellent, extremely well explained plus the use of the video examples was key to understanding it! Thanks guys!!
@garylugg9860
@garylugg9860 Жыл бұрын
old video that I am re watching .. even at the wave pool where i know where to sit the "waiting "has been a game changer ... no more frantic thrashing about ... waiti wait wait couple of strokes in and feel the lift of the board ... such a simple but useful tip. Gary
@fmichielsens
@fmichielsens 2 жыл бұрын
Had my first weekend taking surfinglessons together with my 14year old daugther. A three day course in the Netherlands. We LOVED IT and are ready planning for the next weekend. This video shows us all the mistakes we've made 😁 . Great explanation of how to catch the green wave. Thanx for sharing 🤙 and hopefully we can catch them asap.
@c_dubbzz6127
@c_dubbzz6127 3 жыл бұрын
🤯"white water map"🤯 been surfing since I was like 8 y/o and learning this for the first time rn just blew my mind.
@ombesurf
@ombesurf 3 жыл бұрын
That is awesome man!
@tiagopinto365
@tiagopinto365 11 ай бұрын
I was definitely overpaddling and then my pop up suffered because i had no energy... this is game changing proper stuff👌👌🧨
@TechboogieTV
@TechboogieTV 7 ай бұрын
Hoping this works 😅 Beginner here and struggling to catch waves consistently. Was thinking it was because my paddles aren't strong enough, but this technique makes me think I've been approaching it wrong. Love the idea of paddling less because my beach requires so much paddling just to get into position I dont have anything left by the time the wave comes. Giving this a try tomorrow and will report back!
@jabbaughfc
@jabbaughfc 3 жыл бұрын
This was a big aha for me. The last time I was surfing I was paddling like mad to "match the speed of the wave." What was funny is that after I got tired (after a few hours) I started to sit back in order to bail when I didn't think I would catch the wave. When I did that I kept catching waves. I was accidentally doing (because of exhaustion) the wait and oreo technique you are advocating and it was working. The light bulb didn't go on until right now though. Looking forward to trying that the next time I go out.
@useless_fella
@useless_fella 2 жыл бұрын
what is being told in this video is true but its kinda what every surfer know subconsciously.. Surfers normally don't paddle to match the speed of the wave they normally do to be at the right place coz its very hard to be at the 'bus stop' right from the beginning.
@andysmith6975
@andysmith6975 2 жыл бұрын
Waiting for the lift. Going to have to try that. Excellent breakdown and tips. Thanks guys.
@aussiert
@aussiert 2 ай бұрын
This is gold. Thank you.
@andrewwright3676
@andrewwright3676 8 ай бұрын
Cheers guy your video is really helpful. The most important thing for me is waiting & feeling the glide rather than paddling too hard. 🤙
@Kahawai68
@Kahawai68 3 жыл бұрын
Oh dear God….I have been surfing for 35 years and have learnt so much from you guys over the last few months. I am hoping that I have the faith to try this as it sounds like it will be a game changer for my constant battle to just get onto the waves. Next….I just need some waves. Being in Darwin does not help in this regard.
@ombesurf
@ombesurf 3 жыл бұрын
So cool to hear that we have been helpful. Move to where the waves are!!
@Kahawai68
@Kahawai68 3 жыл бұрын
@@ombesurf I wish
@casizzi1
@casizzi1 Жыл бұрын
This Clayton fella is an absolute Mr Miyagi of a surf teacher
@michellesheptak
@michellesheptak 3 жыл бұрын
Brilliant boys! Always learning from you, even when I don't think it applies ....it all does! 20 + yrs surfing and love learning from you!
@mtigomizh
@mtigomizh 3 жыл бұрын
#1 biggest takeaway for me was that if I see a lot of turbulence and bubbles around my hands, then I'm paddling too hard/fast and that is ineffective 🔥🔥. #2 was that your tips helped me figure out how not to sit too far outside 🔥
@ombesurf
@ombesurf 3 жыл бұрын
That is awesome Nick, Stoked you get something worth out of it.
@apachewolfscout
@apachewolfscout 7 ай бұрын
Cant wait to try it out. Ive been one if those desperate paddlers and failed to get tail down to plain, with plenty nose dives as well! Such a clear video, still its always easy when your just watching! Should be somewhere sweet in next few weeks to try out your advice, many thanks!
@michelGaranx
@michelGaranx 2 жыл бұрын
Dude you're putting words on a feeling for me thanks. I've bodyboard for quite a long time and was used to catch a lot of waves with very little effort because I understood how to position correctly. Than I could not go to the water for about 10 years and now that I'm going back I surf. I took a lesson in which the instructor told me you have to paddle quite strongly to get momentum then you put your chin to the board to put weight on the front of the board and put all you've got in the last 5 strokes.... bottom line, I was exhausted before popping up and popping up was difficult.... What I've just saw makes is quite the opposite and makes a lot of sense to me. Now I have to go and work it out.
@Nathan_Salcedo
@Nathan_Salcedo Жыл бұрын
I can't wait to put this to practice in a couple weeks!
@georgewcamp
@georgewcamp 2 жыл бұрын
cant wait to try the oreo, I have been over paddling for years!
@simoncalnan1324
@simoncalnan1324 2 жыл бұрын
Arching the back more and waiting for the lift of the wave has helped so much. Thank you very much. Some of the best surf instruction iv come across.
@kaplodoy
@kaplodoy 7 ай бұрын
Waiting is key... best take away. 👌🏾
@brandonwong199
@brandonwong199 2 жыл бұрын
OMG the waiting and oreo biscuit combo has changed my life!! Last 2 surfs have been, more waves, less stress, more time, more feeling and less pain haha. Amazing vid. Thx guys 🙏
@conwaeburrell8490
@conwaeburrell8490 Жыл бұрын
Definitely going to try these techniques. I’ve been making all the mistakes mentioned in this video. I’ll let you know how I go!
@MichaelJWise
@MichaelJWise 9 ай бұрын
Wow thanks! I thought I needed to have speed before the wave got to me so I have been paddling way too early and getting too far in front of the wave. Next time I go out I will wait for the wave to pick me up.
@ripping300
@ripping300 Жыл бұрын
Thanks for the help! I have been having trouble with catching waves consistently. After this I realised it’s because I keep paddling myself away from the peak. Thanks!!
@JulianDaniels
@JulianDaniels 11 ай бұрын
Wow! Such a good video! I learned to not hurry at all. I use to get my biceps hurt by paddling and popping up too fast. So, staying calm is the right way too progress I hope.
@dianetaylor2557
@dianetaylor2557 2 жыл бұрын
This is great. I haven't practiced it yet but I was always told to paddle and paddle hard. This creates so much tension in my body that by the time I came to pop up, I'd be tired, tense and rushed. I can't wait to practice this! Thank you so much!
@mikamikalson7393
@mikamikalson7393 11 ай бұрын
This is some excellent advice. Improved my understanding and ability to catch waves a great deal! Much appreciated gents.
@AffordableLeather
@AffordableLeather 2 жыл бұрын
What a great video! A while back I was at The Wave in Bristol (UK!) surfing their Waikiki wave. Most of the time I was paddling to catch the wave and doing ok, but there was one where something happened and I found myself lifted by the wave and I was up and riding with barely a paddle. I had no idea how I did that, but now I've seen your video, it looks like I chanced on your "Oreo" technique, so I'm going to have to give that another try soon!
@earthy770
@earthy770 3 жыл бұрын
This vid is pure gold. Thank you guys.
@jaimemc7886
@jaimemc7886 3 жыл бұрын
I am learning good tips with this guys … and I have 46 years surfing
@ombesurf
@ombesurf 3 жыл бұрын
Thanks Jaime, So stoked you're getting something from us!
@davidjarvis813
@davidjarvis813 2 жыл бұрын
Yep, have watched this 5 times after 5 sessions, and picked up more pointers each time 👍
@ride.your.bike.
@ride.your.bike. Жыл бұрын
Outstanding content. Bless you for making this free for the world on KZbin!
@rachelledeleon2924
@rachelledeleon2924 2 жыл бұрын
Watching this video really helped improve my paddling. The way you explained and demonstrate is on point! Thank s so much you guys!
@pepemedin4
@pepemedin4 Жыл бұрын
la información quedan en este video para los que estamos iniciando en el surf es de mucha ayuda, hay muchos errores que en las escuelas de surf deja, pero los puntos que tocan en este video son muy importantes, ayudan mucho a entender como generar el impulso, la importancia de estar bien colocado en el mar y como la distribución de tu peso de tu cabeza en la tabla es también muy importante 👍🏼 muchas gracias!!! un fuerte abrazo desde Perú 🇵🇪
@stevegwilliam3925
@stevegwilliam3925 Жыл бұрын
Verdad!?!?🤙🙌
@damonleslie3526
@damonleslie3526 Жыл бұрын
Hands down the best tutorial I have ever seen!!! 🙏🙏🙏🤙🤙🤙
@SR-ed7ye
@SR-ed7ye Жыл бұрын
Thank you for this information. This is the most helpful video I've seen yet. I'm excited to apply it. Waiting at the bus stop!
@ingridperez2672
@ingridperez2672 Жыл бұрын
Thank you guys! Really enjoyed the video. I will try and be patient and wait for the wave tomorrow when I'm surfing. I'm a beginner surfer and I really need to catch my own waves instead of having my instructor setting them up for me. ha! We'll see how it goes. Gracias!
@metallitai
@metallitai 11 ай бұрын
this is an amazing video on breaking down how to surf and as a beginner its really helpful! thank you!
@ninolevicar2238
@ninolevicar2238 2 жыл бұрын
This is the most useful video I have ever watched on catching more waves. Thanks!
@jackdoughty4238
@jackdoughty4238 2 жыл бұрын
Wow - Thank you - this is the best explanation I have heard/seen of catching green waves. The idea of sinking your tail of the board by arching up and gliding into the wave is great! Cannot wait to try it. Your description of the wave grabbing hold of the tail of the board and pushing you forward was great! Typically - I have been trying to power paddle my way on to the wave with chin/chest down. Depending on the types of waves - this results in a lot of missed opportunities for fast forming beach break waves. Question and observation: I think I have noticed that when the board begins to plane in the wave, that you will see water shooting out from sides of the nose of the board. If so, I think this would be the prefect time to begin your pop-up. True??
@anjanaprasad5325
@anjanaprasad5325 Жыл бұрын
Love this video, thank you! I've been to so many surf school lessons and definitely do the early frantic head down paddle, which doesn't always feel right in the green waves. Will definitely use the Oreo biscuit!
@philschuster1624
@philschuster1624 3 жыл бұрын
These videos are so helpful. Very easy to follow. Keep them coming!
@ombesurf
@ombesurf 3 жыл бұрын
Thank you Phil! Will do!
@nestorqa1681
@nestorqa1681 3 жыл бұрын
Oreo biscuit explanation changed my surf game!😀
@ombesurf
@ombesurf 3 жыл бұрын
That is great to hear Nestor!
@glentricket2952
@glentricket2952 2 жыл бұрын
Really enjoyed yourself and Claytons break down language Exactly what I wanted to hear. Thanks 🙏
@stephensimpson9626
@stephensimpson9626 3 жыл бұрын
Zen surfing....wait,oreo,bliss!......nice gents...love the RSA accent Awe!
@ombesurf
@ombesurf 3 жыл бұрын
Thanks Stephen!
@MrJayfout
@MrJayfout Жыл бұрын
Awesome tutorial! Now I know why I nosedive so much! Thank you!
@Edy1331
@Edy1331 11 ай бұрын
Thanks for the great explanation. It was a game changer for me!
@brettfadner3476
@brettfadner3476 3 жыл бұрын
Caught my first unbroken wave today😎😎
@ombesurf
@ombesurf 3 жыл бұрын
Yew!!! so sick!! Congrats Brett!
@menwithven2862
@menwithven2862 2 жыл бұрын
Like everyone has already said fantastic video guys
@RemoStone1
@RemoStone1 Жыл бұрын
Excellant video and many precious advices, looking it give me a chance to catch more wave , Thanks you
@alexmartinez3865
@alexmartinez3865 2 жыл бұрын
game changer for sure
@FJRamosArt
@FJRamosArt 2 жыл бұрын
This makes all the difference. Thanks.
@tiagopinto365
@tiagopinto365 11 ай бұрын
Thanks guys!! AMAZING stuff🤙🤙
@mingclv
@mingclv 3 жыл бұрын
I am really glad that I do not need to paddle really hard to catch wave. I am convinced.
@ombesurf
@ombesurf 3 жыл бұрын
This only work if you are in the right position. It all about reading the conditions. Good to hear Ming!
@thekevinhollyshow6487
@thekevinhollyshow6487 3 ай бұрын
excellent video thank you
@markbox9480
@markbox9480 3 жыл бұрын
Thanks guys, I really need these words of advice, I'm doing so many of the wrong things you mention.
@ombesurf
@ombesurf 3 жыл бұрын
We are here to help Mark.
@nicoleyong639
@nicoleyong639 2 жыл бұрын
Your videos are the best. provides the motivation/inspiration/knowledge for me to not give up
@mingkit4372
@mingkit4372 Жыл бұрын
this video is very helpful, thank you!!
@pengzhang1957
@pengzhang1957 3 жыл бұрын
Thank you man. This video is great!! I am that guy who paddled like hell yet always miss the wave.
@ombesurf
@ombesurf 3 жыл бұрын
Glad we could help Peng!
@Hopefulgoingforward
@Hopefulgoingforward Жыл бұрын
Learned a lot, thanks for the knowledge!
@jbwave69
@jbwave69 2 жыл бұрын
Good graphic with the kettle bell
@Cuisinenomade1
@Cuisinenomade1 2 жыл бұрын
Wow! This is indeed a game changing video. I will try next time and let you know, but it actually sounds logical and i discovered the oreo position on my last session, yet lots of paddle since there are other channels/videos teaching to "match" the speed of the wave. I will let you know how it goes! Thanks a lot!
@richardharvey2063
@richardharvey2063 3 жыл бұрын
Awesome explanations and tips as ever! Single best thing you can do to improve your surfing? Listen to these guys!
@ombesurf
@ombesurf 3 жыл бұрын
Boom! Thanks Richard.
@jameschalmers9939
@jameschalmers9939 3 жыл бұрын
I've been struggling to get my confidence back up as I've just not had enough time in the water the last few years (bloody work interfering in the important things!). Anyway, these tips are great to get me more intentional on my take off, which has been a massive problem for me. So, I'm gonna wait and catch the wave, positioning myself by watching for where the wave starts to draw up water from the bottom. And I'm gonna stop sticking my head down and paddling like crazy to scratch into the wave from too far out the back or on the shoulder. Looking forward to some Oreo biscuits 😋
@jameschalmers9939
@jameschalmers9939 3 жыл бұрын
These tips helped do much this morning! Caught way more waves with less paddling and had tonnes more ability to pay attention to the wave and keep my head up to look where I was going. Cheers boys!
@ombesurf
@ombesurf 3 жыл бұрын
That is so good to hear James!
@viniciusromolosilva4709
@viniciusromolosilva4709 3 жыл бұрын
game change advices guys!! thanks for that! Lets pratice tomorrow...waiting the swell get little lower
@ombesurf
@ombesurf 3 жыл бұрын
You got this Vini!
@markn0916
@markn0916 2 жыл бұрын
great video ever. I wish I watched this 20 years ago.
@alihussain-yu1kk
@alihussain-yu1kk Жыл бұрын
You guys are legends, thank you so much for your guidance
@martinyoung9901
@martinyoung9901 Жыл бұрын
Very helpful. Thanks.
@barneyong2352
@barneyong2352 3 жыл бұрын
The tricky part for me is being in the correct bus stop. Will try to practice this technique next week. Thanks, guys!
@ombesurf
@ombesurf 3 жыл бұрын
Keep trying!
@kristopheruber2976
@kristopheruber2976 2 жыл бұрын
Completely agree. Sometimes I feel like I’m taking too many on the head trying to be in the correct position, especially when the waves are a big bigger 6-10+ feet. I want to do the easy paddle in like when it’s smaller, but it’s much harder when the bigger waves are in town and it’s breaking all over the place. I guess patience is the key and having the right board for the conditions.🤙🏼
@benjaminloggenberg839
@benjaminloggenberg839 3 жыл бұрын
Epic video as always! I have a question regarding the Oreo biscuit and in what scenario you would actually keep your head a bit more down instead? Paddle/surf scientist Rob Case and other coaches often mention scenarios where you would actually keep your head down when catching a wave to help with the momentum and the wave taking you/pushing you down the face instead of moving out from underneath you. Thanks again for the amazing content!
@boltup5566
@boltup5566 3 жыл бұрын
Head down when the wave is mushy and you're trying to get into the wave early. Oreo biscuit when the wave is steep and walled and you're taking off late.
@ombesurf
@ombesurf 3 жыл бұрын
If you have to put your head down to get into a wave, that means you are late for the wave which means you were out of position in the first place. Rob has created modules for our accelerated surfing program where he explains in depth the mechanics of paddling in different scenarios. We all agree that you have to put your head down when you are in the shoulder, you are late or you have to ramp up you paddle power. Thanks for your comment Ben.
@benjaminloggenberg839
@benjaminloggenberg839 3 жыл бұрын
@@ombesurf Great feedback, thanks!
@benjaminloggenberg839
@benjaminloggenberg839 3 жыл бұрын
@@boltup5566 Makes sense, thanks :D
@hughmckendrick3018
@hughmckendrick3018 2 жыл бұрын
Looking forward to trying these points.
@norcalrod
@norcalrod 3 жыл бұрын
I love the discussions and explanations. Wish I had this decades ago, learned some of your theories through the school of hard knocks. One area that I like an opinion is in larger waves where there’s a lot of surface tension pushing up the face of the wave, and waiting for the lift results in late drops. Also, in some beach breaks, the better shoulders are caused by rip breaks, where you’re paddling into an outgoing rip and the surface water is moving against you.
@ombesurf
@ombesurf 3 жыл бұрын
The advice given is for regular everyday conditions. Having the awareness to make changes for different conditions is key.
@carloermini5918
@carloermini5918 2 жыл бұрын
Great clear and simple video about physics of surf, thank you, really thank you
@quimlima
@quimlima 2 жыл бұрын
Nice that you mentioned the speed of the wave, that said, what you guys believe is the average wave speed for waves ranging from 3ft to 8ft? Of course every spot has its own wind, currents, tides, swell going on...
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