How to use dovetail jigs to build a log cabin.

You can get dovetail jig plans and more how-to from logdovetailjig...
In this video, I discuss the starter course of logs on a subfloor. I show you how to
figure log length
mark the log
position the jigs
cut notches
(Of course you could also set your logs on a foundation and frame your floor system into the base course of logs using joist hangers)

[@perryholloway540]

That is absolutely the best, illustration I've ever seen. I'm not a carpenter. But I understood. You are definitely a teacher. Thank you

[@TheBeardedCarpenter]

Howdy brother- very informative video. I sure appreciate you sharing this. I call the multi-tool an electric chisel. They are very handy to have. Love the cabin you showed at the end. Take care and God’s blessings to you

[@OnBeaverCreek]

Thank you sir! That cabin at the end sure turned out nice. Mr. Mashburn did a great job on it.

[@timgiles9413]

I would put down copper flashing before I put down my base cord to keep termites out. Great video 👍

[@jamesbrooks5442]

I would put down angle flashing before first log to cover sub floor to foundation

[@MountainDreamLand]

Very cool...! Thanks for sharing.

[@OnBeaverCreek]

Thanks for watching!

[@bard44]

Appreciate the demonstration. Very well done. Now, how do I go about cutting dovetail corners so that my parallel logs fit tight together without space between them? I want to cut a groove in the bottom log to place insulmoss so it will be compressed between.

[@OnBeaverCreek]

I plan to do a video soon using D shaped logs and no gap. Stay tuned.

[@davemcdonald5004]

great work

[@lovethewordofgodjn321]

Very nice instructional video 👍

[@OnBeaverCreek]

Glad you liked it!

[@kevinolson1102]

@10:39 "Need a little more power for cutting the jig." Have you messed around with non-stock chain grinds? I suspect it could make quite a difference for a little saw. I'd like to mess with a "straight grind", since I've seen some pretty remarkable results in comparison races. But, for notching, it seems like a rip grind might be helpful, since most of the cut length is parallel to grain. Any thoughts? I do have a small electric saw, which I had thought might be nice for notching - maintain peaceful relations with the neighbors during late-night work bees at the house in town, etc. One of the 220v Scandinavian saws would be nice, but they seem to be rare as hen's teeth in North America.

[@OnBeaverCreek]

Haven't tried but that may help on the rip cuts.

[@dusterandy]

I love your videos and have purchased a set of your templates (still waiting on them coming through though) Looking forward to part three of the Cabin Build. I have a Logosol B751 Bandsaw Mill and have just purchased a Logosol LM410 to make the Beams, although after watching your videos perhaps I might not have needed such a tool, but it will be a nice addition regardless. Im planning on using your templates to build a jig for 6"x6" Beams that will be molded for double tongue and grove. But the logs will be freshly felled Spruce. Im planning on 'no gap' Im assuming that if I build with freshly felled logs that if I start to build the cabin right away there will be shrinkage in the logs that will pull back from each other and create a gap not just between the logs but also between the Dovetails? Would this be a serious issue? Perhaps Butt and Pass would be better with green logs? Many thanks.

[@OnBeaverCreek]

Hi Andy. I replied to your email. Using dried logs is best if possible. As thlogs dry, the can shrink, twist or warp some. It is possible to build with logs that are green but I do not think it is a good idea to use no gap as with a tongue and groove.

[@dusterandy]

@@OnBeaverCreek thanks for the reply and the email. :) Chinking is going to be seen as quite an undesirable look here in Scotland. So its a path that I dont wish to go down. I had hoped that with the double tongue and grove the effects of twisting and warping would be somewhat mitigated. Added to the double tongue and grove Id be running lag screws and Sikaflex on each course. Perhaps the options open to me is to mill the 6" beams and leave them to dry for 6 months to a year (Spruce seems to dry out fairly fast) then mill the profiles and build. Or I might have to go with Butt and Pass? Id rather not go with Butt and Pass but I really want to have a Cabin built within 12 months and all I have access to is green logs.

[@georgeshotrodbarn2113]

That was a good video thanks

[@OnBeaverCreek]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@gardenia73mccready79]

So is this a second cabin on your property - ahh 19 mins into video & I see the original in the back ground. You have been busy with other buildings on the property.

[@OnBeaverCreek]

Yes, I will be doing a tour of the house in a future video. Stay tuned!

[@AS-xo3lk]

Hello Sir. Thank you for the informative video. Is the offset of a quarter inch a standard length or does it vary depending on certain factors? How do we arrive at this calculation of a quarter inch? Thanks.

[@OnBeaverCreek]

Hi. I design custom dovetail jigs and sell plans for them on my website logdovetailjig.com I can design a custom plan for you based on your log size and the amount of chinking gap you would like to have.

[@dougpeak7591]

I like the square logs but I’m not crazy about chinking. I don’t care for the look of it but I love the dovetailing with square logs

[@normanunger8795]

We’re did you go, more videos

[@OnBeaverCreek]

Just about to post a new one!

[@gaetana.cincire5821]

Have you ever looked at Rijavek log cabin building ...not as much comfort and tools and triple the size ! Amateurs in comparairon !

[@OnBeaverCreek]

I haven't watched his videos but I see the thumbnails. Thanks for watching my video.

[@johnnyspot783]

I just started dry fitting mine today, great job Fred😎

[@OnBeaverCreek]

Thanks!

[@thomasgoetz5375]

Great video. I have a couple of questions. I would like to use 6" square logs and do not want a gap between them. Can you build me a jig for that design? Also how much thickness will I lose per log? I am starting to accumulate logs to be cut and need to figure out how many I will need. How do I contact you about purchasing the jigs? Thank you.

[@OnBeaverCreek]

Hi Thomas. I can design jigs for 6x6 and no gap. Check out the website. logdovetailjig.com Thanks!

[@dougpeak7591]

Did you buy your sawmill new or used ? How much was it

[@OnBeaverCreek]

It was new. I bought it in 2008 I think it was and at that time was about $7000

[@25acresandacabin99]

Fred, you think it be a good idea to place a “window” at center length, and center bird mouth? Then you’d be able to line up the crosshairs.

[@OnBeaverCreek]

On a lot of jigs, there is not a lot of wood right in that area so not much room to drill a hole. I don't see a need to either since you line up the vertical edge with your mark.

[@25acresandacabin99]

@@OnBeaverCreek good point 👍