OPENING the ENGINE of my 1980' BAYLINER Mutiny - Ep. #42 - Vintage Yacht Restoration Vlog

[@daveevans7438]

That engine isn't a total lost. Take the head back off and rotate that cylinder to bottom dead center. Look the wall over good. If you don't have large grooves in it you should be ok. Take your head in and have a valve job done on it and have them check for cracks... You may find out you still have a good unit there. P.S. don't use your torque wrench as a breaker bar. You'll ruine it. And screw up the calibration... Keep up the good work. 👍👍👍

[@freddiebear8793]

Looks like a blown head gasket let water to get into the cylinder causing the damage, I'd say the engine is rebuild-able.

[@53Peterbilt]

Agreed ^^^

[@kenknight4560]

That is exactly my thought. I would price a rebuild on this motor, might be most cost effective solution rather than buying used. You get a new motor in the process.

[@freddiebear8793]

@@kenknight4560 That's right, in a rebuild he gets what you said, a new motor, in a used he gets the mystery motor that could go bad just like this one.

[@giles-df9yu]

A nut was dropped down one carb. It actually looks like it on damaged one piston a little. The small chip on the head can be repaired with a welder put a new piston in and run it

[@fitzsfixes]

@@giles-df9yu that's not a chip on the head. Look closer. It's just the head gasket that's damaged

[@chrisc5275]

I’d echo many of the comments below. That motor certainly is not a total wreck. No need for Mozart’s requiem, it’s not dead yet!

[@jakobussteyn2821]

No big deal in overhauling the old engine, take piston out and check damage before just throwing away. It is wasteful.

[@georgefleming6075]

That was caused by a blown head gasket clean it replace valve's and head gasket simple fix.

[@JohnnyRizon]

agreed- shes not dead yet!!! soak it in marvel mystery oil, get it rotating and clean it, and re-clean and seal-- ill bet she'll run for relatively cheap money

[@debeeriz]

i think it is more likely that the inlet valve was open and water entered through the air intake on one of the carbs looking at how much corrosion there is on one of those carb throats

[@JohnnyRizon]

@@debeeriz exactly- it looks like iron buildup not a broken part, sure it needs a new valve, but i believe a little cleanup and head work and shes good to go- the iron deposits took the shape of round because thats how it settled in the cylinder, not a piece of the valve- at a quick glance in the video the valve looks to be complete, not a chunk missing

[@Linuxxl]

I'd suggest you get a quote on an engine overhaul. Might be cheaper than getting a replacement.

[@bobp6742]

Torque wrenches are designed for tightening bolts not loosening, you can damage the internals/alter the accuracy by over torquing when loosening bolts.

[@SwedesGarage]

You beat me to it, right on.

[@JamesRook]

Another newbie tool user mistake.

[@bobp6742]

@@JamesRook I've seen qualified fitters in nuclear power plants do exactly the same thing. I worked at a garage when I was 10 and one of the mechanics caught me using his torque wrench to undo wheel nuts, he kicked my ass all over the workshop but in 52 years I never did it again 😂

[@bigboy9693]

I have two torque wrenches that work in either direction for left hand threads and I heave been involved in the maintenance of gas turbines and high sped rotating equipment for over 40 years.

[@bobp6742]

@@bigboy9693 All my torque wrenches work either way as well, never seen one the that doesn't.

[@rasmAn2]

That cylinders head gasket went due to corrosion it seems, it ate some water and was put away wet. Seems to me like it could be saved with a hone (maybe a bore), new rings, maybe new valves and a piston and offcourse new gaskets and bolts. Then again if you can get one for cheap it may not be worth it. If you plan to just do short runs with it, this might be a nice format of vessel to convert to electric, since it doesn't need all that much power to go and you can use the batteries as an extended house pack for the big boat. Getting some more solar might be a good choice at that point

[@jondavidmcnabb]

Looks like the head gasket went bad and the coolant leaked into the chamber. You might be able to salvage the engine if you get it out and replace the bad piston/valves/gasket.

[@jrrains]

Your a KZbin mechanic coolant?

[@renem6441]

Don’t give up on that engine, take the pistons out it doesn’t look that bad

[@TgWags69]

I was going to say the same thing. A little clean up and a new head gasket may be all that's needed. An inspection of the bottom end would be nice just to make sure the rod bearing didn't get smacked or rank bent, But it is an assumption that the piece fell in while running. It could have rolled in just trying to start, in which case no real damage would have occurred.

[@joannehart9624]

The "bad" cylinder may only need to be honed. Since the piston was at the top of the stroke, the bottom section of the cylinder may be fine. The advantage in reassembling the engine with new bearings, rings, gaskets, etc. means that you will know that the engine is in good condition. Just buying another engine, you won't really know the condition of that engine. It might run, but for how long?

[@mikalehtinen315]

There is allways hope, dont give up yet. Some times we have give first aid even worse engine. Greetings from Finland.

[@alan6832]

Oil it and free it up. if you can't free it by pounding pistons with a wooden plug, try putting the head back on, making a grease fitting that screws into a spark plug hole, and using a grease gun to fill a cylinder with grease and then force it hydraulically with the grease gun. You can fabricate a plate with a grease fitting and bolt it on with the head bolts too. kzbin.info/www/bejne/rIClc4hsnZ11fLc

[@louiscirillo55]

I agree here... I paused the video and it looks like the gasket blew next to that water port. From there it probably hydro-locked. As long as you dont have any lower-end damage this should be a simple fix. Even then a replacement rod and bearings would be easy.

[@kevine.phillips7578]

Sorry about the Volvo engine. That’s a bummer. When you take apart an engine top end keep track of the push rods in order. It may save you time later in valve adjustment.

[@vincentdsnt]

A bilge pump will need to be replaced sooner than you think installing under the boiler is a mistake ! In fact you should install two pumps so you can unplug the one that go's bad and and replace with the standby pump..........with water entering the bilge you want a fast turn around !

[@mgas1237]

ALWAYS use two pumps. Its a Heater. Says so on the box. Boilers are used to turn water into steam.

[@MrToyorick]

That engine is easy to fix :-) believe me i’m from Sweden 🇸🇪, clean up the head , check all the valves, and put new gasket on , check the manifold for rust , and put new impeller in and drive :-) This failure is common it’s i blown head gasket , and water and rust :-), no need to change piston etc this engine is almost un breakable :) so put 30 € on gasket and of you go

[@colebates9047]

Greetings My First Boat, You are doing a great job. You make it seem like it is not hard work but we know better. Please consider installing a second, much larger bilge pump such as the Whale Orca BE3004 189 liters/minute for unexpected emergencies. It does not need to be mounted in the very bottom of the bilge, just somewhere accessible that will keep your boat afloat in an emergency. The reason is that if you run aground someplace and cause a big leak in the hull below the water line and your primary bilge pump does not work for some reason, you may not have time to diagnose and do a repair. Also, your Supersub Smart pump capacity is not intended to handle the volume of water from an emergency situation. With this second pump, all you do is turn it on and you will have more time to save your boat. It is well worth the cost. Regards, Cole

[@120Livi]

I love this project and I love the narration. Its perfect

[@Aj-qu7gp]

Fr sum good tv 🤣🙌🏾

[@mrchairman08]

Take the cylinder head to an Engine shop and have them remove the valves grind the valve seats and replace with new valves. Then pull the engine block out (which you are going to have to do eventually) remove the connecting rod bolts and check the crankshaft if good then pull the pistons and send the block out to be bored over to the next available piston size reassemble in reverse order.

[@jukeman57]

Seeing the house boat along side of your barge, makes we wonder if you have ever considered building a house/shop on your barge platform? That would be very cool. If that’s not feasible then, just a roof covering the barge platform would be great too.

[@Taz6688]

Making a floating workshop would be handy and might make some cash, there seems to be plenty on the water living in their boats.

[@jrrains]

The authorities don't want a workshop in the bay. He mentioned his badge was low profile and won't draw attention in the beginning.

[@CelticSemperTyrannis]

Head bolts should be replaced because they have a certain amount stretch and once you take them out they are no good

[@JamesRook]

Very common mistake novice engine builders make! Always always always replace and do not reuse torque critical fasteners like cylinder head bolts or rod bearing bolts. Just as you said, once the bolts are torqued to spec they stretch. I learned this the hard way many years ago.

[@DadBuilds]

The wood in the bilge will get water logged and then you'll have wet/damp wood touching the steel hull and will rot the hull out.

[@Mumbo_Jumbo_Kiwi.1]

It might be a temporary fix with limited summer time left.

[@Ricky146a]

@@Mumbo_Jumbo_Kiwi.1 Nearly all of his fixes and installations are 'temporary'!

[@theadventuresoffatcat1886]

@@Ricky146a Yeah, you're right. Sometimes it's hard watching!!

[@Stoney3K]

Those head bolts are usually stretch bolts, so you will have to replace them when you reattach the cylinder head.

[@danstray2527]

That engine is probably the easiest engine on the planet to renovate if u want to go that route.

[@tankerboypz1287]

Yeah it’s a Volvo engine, they are all easy to Work on

[@benmac940]

@@tankerboypz1287 until you get to the modern common rail diesel and then you need to be a computer technician to achieve anything with them.

[@_-martin-_]

I bet that eventually that hose to the bilge pump will jump off. You need to dip the hose in a cup of hot water and then fully attach the hose.

[@christyler5722]

Dude what sort of timber is that, and how long before it rots? Why hide a bilge pump under something when you need access to it when it blocks? Suggest you get some advice from people who know what they are doing before you start installing stuff.

[@p.d.smithjr.3277]

Greetings. I’m not a fan of Volvo engines. Mostly because of cost, and their electronics. That 1980 engine has few if any electronics and the aftermarket parts should hold down cost. We haven’t seen the bottom end; however, the top is fixable.

[@richardwery3115]

I noticed you put the wood frame for the bilge pump below the bilge pump. Won't the wood rot in the water? Also, did you coat the cut ends with varnish? I enjoy your ingenious videos!

[@steviefordranger198]

I am sure the bilge pump is at the lowest point. Nevertheless there is plenty of wood close to the bottom of the hull.

[@gatisozols]

I would have gone with a WD40 on those pistons to try to move the engine over to see in what state is the bore of the cylinder. Maybe it just needs a new head gasket and valve lapping (if super reliability is not necessary)..

[@benmac940]

Diesel works better in my experience.

[@jrrains]

Either one is better than nothing.

[@joejuska5390]

That’s not the way you tie off to a bollard.

[@Nomad8324]

He is winging this entire project so are you really surprised?

[@backdoorbursta2866]

Are you surprised?

[@theadventuresoffatcat1886]

@@Nomad8324 "Boy, you're really spotting everything! We're in agreement with all your comments.

[@ThackerLance]

You should put some rubber isolators under your waste tank or else that metal bracket is going to rub a hole in it

[@BadgerBishop]

That engine looked like it was sleeved, you might be able to have it resleeved. That is to say the cylinder has a replaceable inner piece that can be taken out and replaced with a new one to help with this type of issue.

[@Daaremikkel]

Not sleeved. Impression from the fire ring. I think cylinder #3 was sitting with an open exhaust valve so moisture got in there. Basic Volvo engine. Parts are cheap and plentiful.

[@Sircraig7963]

Gday Crew,, Another great episode,, thanks for sharing with the faithfull.... Please check the volvo motor for water ingress via carburetors, may have hydraulic locked due to water, hopefully the head did not crack (check for crack) also check for blown head gasket ,, Good chance motor can still be saved , but may need head pressure tested & valves re done .... providing bottom end is serviceable.. Good luck with it .. Respect from Down Under

[@Cameron-ur2tk]

Most likely a blown (or atleast leaky) head gasket that allowed water/ coolant into that one cylinder over a long period of time. This is me judging it from a quick still frame but the corner of the head is blown out where the head gasket would sit. With the head gasket shot water leaks in. It was probably extra smoky for awhile prior to dying. That head is trash but the block might be salvageable. Id pull that dude out and bring it to a machine shop or do some more investigative work. You could probably take a couple thousandths off the top of the block and be fine but youd want to see that cylinder and bottom end look like first.

[@VAdu56]

I think that unfortunately your work with wood and assemblahe with normal iron and non-stainless steel screws, risks being quickly damaged with water and condensation ... but your work is well done ... Bravo! !

[@theadventuresoffatcat1886]

Exactly. I just watch these videos because he seems like a nice kid trying hard, but some of his work & materials are so wrong. I think when he finishes this boat, he should sell it. Fast. Quite often I've found the difference between a good job and a bad one is either five dollars or five minutes of extra work.

[@berndm9743]

Some thoughts. Did you mount the bilge pump in the lowest part of the boat? Usually the stern is the lowest point back by the engine. Also that bilge pump is going to be really hard to access if the is a problem with it if that water tank is full of 60 L of water.

[@Nomad8324]

Here we go again. You exact words. "there appears no place else to put the boiler..." I see yet again you continue to fly by the seat of your pants through this entire project. I want you to succeed but you are risking throwing money, time and materials away because you have just enough knowledge to be dangerous. It can not be that hard to find someone educated by experience and/or education on how things need to be done properly that would lend their knowledge to help you off just as people have done over and over and over and over in the comments but either you are way to far ahead of videos or ignore all the knowledge being put out for you to take advantage off. Short term you will get away with it but over the long term it is going to eat you alive when your "repairs" fail and you have to rip things apart and spend money to fix things again. Honestly it would probably be easier to learn from this and buy a replacement boat if you continue down this path.

[@theadventuresoffatcat1886]

Well said. He seems like such a fine fellow, too, and you want him to succeed, but sometimes when watching, you have to turn away!

[@novachannel1981]

i wonder if hes rust treating all these new holes he drilling prolly not edit: btw that engine can be rebuilt/repaired easily

[@WindingDreams]

That engine block should be fine to use. I'd say you'd only need to replace the top but it's best to remove the cylinders and crankshaft to check. The extra knowledge you get from fiddling with the stuff won't hurt you even if you are replacing the engine.

[@CodySmiley]

Do you need a license to crusing on German waters?

[@deadkemper]

Looking forwards to following you for the the next 30 years when you will invariably expand to " my first floating country"

[@theschwarts]

A little top of the cylinder damage will hurt anything. New piston and rings, 1 new valve seat, 2 new valves, hone the cyl, Bobs your uncle

[@Carburetors_and_calamaties]

That motor is fine it will be much easier and cheaper to repair it than replace it

[@oxcartracing]

Big block Chevrolet LS motor

[@phileus1563]

I hate sunday without new video on your channel "My First Boat". I am junkie about your work ! Your boat, your geographic position near Berlin, your choices, your methods to realize, all is my drug ... I wish to have the same free life one day with my wife (i still have restored few boats but smallers, 15/16 feet max) ... Take care about you and your family... Have nice days, see you soon on a new video. Best regards, Philippe and Carole from France (Near Bordeaux).

[@bigfunanAmericaninGermany]

if you buy a squeeze type clamp, it will help you when cutting or drilling, when you are using only the horses and your hands... it will act as a third hand for you.

[@opianosec]

The very first thing is to check the exhaust manifold. It could be corroded and perforated. When perforated, the water that cools the manifold finds its way to the cylinder head. The exhaust manifold is expensive, so you don’t want to try to repair the engine without first checking the manifold condition.

[@jonco2969]

You may be able to save that engine they are pretty tough. Water ingress for sure perhaps due to being on inlet but dought exhaust stroke.. Perhaps icing also? Perhaps try to clean it up and lubricate well and rotate the engine manually then check for damage?

[@andresmenchaca509]

hace poco me suscribi, asi que hice una maratón de videos hasta llegar al actual, muy buen trabajo, felicitaciones.....!!

[@daveBit15]

That engine is repairable.

[@8180634]

I'm watching without volume so forgive me if this was talked about, but that raw untreated wood is not going to last. You want to at least encase it in epoxy, such as something from West System. Also use stainless fasteners. I would personally take it back out and paint it with epoxy. Let it cure, wash it to remove the amine blush then coat it again (this is in the epoxy instructions). Wear gloves, that stuff is oil soluble and very difficult to remove from your skin (soap does not work). They sell the epoxy in different sized jugs, the few bucks for the pump kit is completely worth it. For every one pump of epoxy you add one pump of hardener. I'm recommending West System because that's what I'm personally familiar with, there are likely other good brands as well.

[@emzei2361]

I have a complete overhauled AQ130 with special unleaded valve seats. I wanted to put it in my Draco boat, but I sold the boat.Feel free to contact me, if you want to.

[@RichardStefanits]

That engine does not seem completely hopeless, it should be rebuildable. It has to be removed from the boat to inspect it further.

[@75echo]

Is the engine a total loss? No . Is it worth fixing? No. Next time paint the wood with epoxy not boat lacquer .

[@FormerArea51]

I kept rewinding to hear you say “rocker shaft”..........Just kidding.love your channel! Thanks!

[@jamesr.epstein]

Am enjoying your video's. I'm learning a lot. I'll keep watching.

[@Nomad8324]

Despite his enthusiasm there is very little to be learned here. He don't understand why things were done the way they were to do things properly. IE wrong fuel line risking a fire, Wrong wood used that WILL rot, and so on. It's all well and good to go for it and try it but it will be a very expensive and labor intensive repair down the road. Assuming of course he doesn't accidentally sink or otherwise destroy the boat first.

[@backdoorbursta2866]

Learning HOW NOT to do things.

[@neleabels]

Servicing the bilge pump’s not a question of “if” but of “when”. Hiding it below the boiler will come back and bite you in the ass.

[@davidowencunningham2743]

Need a real Bilge pump instead of that pretend one! And get one with a Float switch connected to your Lithium Battery with Solar 2500gal per min Minimum. INSURANCE POLICY! If you spin out Drive Shaft packing or knock off a inlet Valve or Toilet Outlet breaks or you HIT SOMETHING?

[@mirisbaruta2023]

It may be more cost effective to repair that engine than to buy another

[@sabrekai8706]

Volvos are hellish expensive to fix here in Canada. Had a 1978 MD-17c in my boat, blew the rear oil seal. Mechanics said $15K for a complete overhaul. I ended up replacing it with a Beta Marine 38. 3 more HP, about half the fuel consumption and about 300 lbs lighter, for $14K

[@MA-iv7ol]

You should only ever use a torque wrench to torque bolts to the specified torque. It was not designed to be used as a breaker bar, using the torque wrench in this method will cause it to lose calibration over time.

[@davidneviles7007]

Yes that motor can be rebuilt. Have the Head rebuilt 100%... All valve seats grind and replaced , valve springs Etc + head Resurfaced. Remove the Cylinder block and inspect for damage, You may want to have cylinder block Magna-fluxed micro fracture detection. often if crack is detected a weld repair is good. if pistons look good (Measure Clearances) try hone the Cyl bores and replace rings. Replace bearings at rod to piston location. have the engine parts Boiled or Vapor blasted then re-assemble. All this is NOT that expensive if you deliver the component parts to a Motor Machine shop individually.

[@LasseMagnussen]

I agree with the general consensus on that engine. It's too early to tell if it's a total write off. You need to move the pistons, or remove them and inspect the cylinder bore. Maybe it's not as bad as it looks. Quite possibly both the block and the head will need some form of machining.

[@tbd-1]

I'm rebuilding a Chrysler 340 for my 1972 Plymouth Duster that started out in much worse shape than your motor. Rebuild your motor, and I say this for 2 reasons: You will have 100% confidence in what you have when you are done, and buying another motor opens yourself up to the potential of a bunch of new problems. Not to mention once you are done you will know how to rebuild a motor 👍

[@fransjanssen2198]

Put another B18/B20 in, there are lots of B18/B20s for sale or maybe, there is somebody who will give it to you as a sponsor kind of guy. Cheaper and faster. Rebuilding can be very expensive.

[@powderrider700]

That engine is not a big problem, check if it will rotate without the head on, if yes...take the head to a machine shop, they will fix it...and...why do you need a tourqe wrench to loosen the bolts??? No need for that, impact gun is the way....just need that wrench when your are tourqing the the head down.. Btw this happend...headgasket failure....clearly! Greetings from a mechanic.

[@thecorbies]

I've recently come across your channel and have been binge watching from video 1 Fabulous content and very well explained. Your English is a credit to you; I wish my German was as good. I wonder if you may be able to explain a little about the rules/ any rules surrounding how a person, or a group of people can just rock up and create a mooring. Are any licences required, are you allowed to stay in that spot only for so long? Are there areas you are NOT allowed to moor in order to keep a clear channel open for other boats/shipping? Regards Mark in the UK p.s. I agree with many of the other comments about this engine. With a bit more investigation, it looks as if it would be possible to repair it.

[@JustPlainRob]

Get a proper German VW TDI engine from a diesel Golf or something to replace that Volvo. They're probably abundant near Berlin, probably cheaper than a 5-cyl Volvo, and put out a bunch of power. Plus, then you can use the same fuel for both boats! Set up your platform with a refueling station :D

[@adamrinasmadsen1684]

A Volvo engine never dies :) Here is what i would have done. 1: Clean up the piston as good as possible. 2: Rotate the engine so that the nr 3 piston is at TDC, Check the cylinder wall And if its not to scorred/damaged Just pull out the piston from the bottom and clean it up (My guess is that the piston rings are gone) and replace it with a salvaged piston. Iv worked with Volvo redblocks a lot, And again, they never die until they die. :)

[@Zombiereaper1]

Echoing comments below, it looks like the head gasket failed and coolant got onto that cylinder. The debris appears to be rust only, and possibly head gasket chunks. I would plug up any passageways, and then use a wire brush to clear all the debris from the piston. Then soak it in a lubricant, like ATF, WD40, PB Blaster, something like that. After a couple days try to turn the engine over with a breaker bar (go buy a breaker bar, don't use the torque wrench it can throw off the calibration.) Turn it over using the bolt on the main pully on the front. Inspect the walls of the cylinder and see if there is scoring. If there is, don't panic, you can likely still save the engine, it just needs some light rebuilding. If not, have the head serviced, or find out how to lap the valves and clean up the head. Get a new headgasket, reinstall the head and try to start her up.

[@vinolentia]

I'd also like to give a shout out to Whale. I bought a Whale variable-speed fresh water system pump from a local shop. After fitting it, I discovered that it didn't work properly. I called Whale, and after giving them the relevant details of the pump, we discovered that it was over 5 years old! Parts had dried out over time, and it was no longer good. I thought I would have to go back to the shop and try to get a refund with my (now opened pump). Instead, the guy at Whale told me to pick out the system I wanted from their catalogue, and they would send it to me. In the end, they sent me a more-expensive system in exchange for the old, dead pump. Trust a company that stands behind their products.

[@oldtimeengineer26]

That engine is repairable it was just a blown head gasket clean it up put new head gasket on and should run

[@tawensan]

I used to rectify a moped cylinder using metal polish... Manually moving the piston with New rings untill the cilinder became polished... May still be hope for your engine. Viele Grusse.

[@davekimbler2308]

Your giving up way to easily, that engine I believe is repairable with a new piston and rings and a good used head and gasket set for under $500 US dollars ! I’d still pull the motor and check out the crankshaft and if she’s ok down there then fix her but if crankshaft and rods and bearings look bad then explore options !

[@Ricky146a]

It looks like that bit of rust in your hand at 17:54 is a part of valve seat. View also supported by the fact that the valve appears too far into the seat. Very fixable problem really unless the head is cracked or the bore destroyed. How old is that engine and if it is old, was it converted to run on unleaded petrol (hardened valve seats fitted)?? I also agree with the other comments regarding the bilge pump. You need it visible and easily accessible - you will probably only look at it when you need it most. Fit 2 as a minimum! Finish jobs properly before you start the next one - details get forgotten and bite you later.

[@midgoog2]

Using your Torque Wrench to undo head bolts and such is NOT a good idea. It will change the delicate spring setup in the wrench and ruin the calibration. Invest in or make a Breaker bar (weld a socket drive onto a length of water pipe) Cheers Eric

[@devshewitt4809]

Yeah very simple fix all hopes not lost don’t let anyone tell you that crap fix crappy valve which means replace valve and head gasket do compression test bet she good that very easy to do full rebuild I just done 302 v8 which wasn’t horrible

[@blowinkk9396]

WHAT? That engine is far from junk dude. If you think that motor is not fixable you shouldn't touch anymore boats dude. Your going to get stuck on the water and need to get rescued. You know both know nothing clearly

[@douglasthompson2740]

A bilge pump is a high maintenance item that needs accessibility. One way you could solve your problem is to use the style that has a remote pickup. Mount the motor out where you can get to it and the foot (pickup) goes to your low point. Some are of bronze which would be heavy enough to stay where you have put your pump now or you could make a bracket. You just need to be able to reach it by pulling it's hose to be able to clean any grunge off of the strainer. I would be very leery of buying a raw water cooled boat and just wouldn't if it is anywhere close to salt water or even brackish water where it could have been used. A freshwater cooled engine with a heat exchanger is a much much better system. You can add one to yours. Also if your accessories are in good shape you might be better off with a remanufactured long block. If that Volvo engine is based on an automobile engine (many brands are) then a generic rebuild would be much cheaper. Check to see that the main bearings are the same before purchasing as some marinized engines upgrade the bearings and they won't fit your oil pan (with water evident it needs checking anyway).

[@garylabree1183]

Chilton's publishes manuals to rebuild engines. See if your engine manufacturer has their own manual. The cylinder head might be useable. Examine the piston and its cylinder. Photographs to a factory mechanic or service person, can get an opinion as to condition and course of action. I have purchased used engines for parts, and been pleased with the result.

[@novoiperkele]

Sweden is full of B20 car engines.. Your problem was a blown head gasket that resulted iin rust that jammed the cylinder. You could just loosen the rust and "use as is" ;)

[@superskrobb]

Hi there this volvo penta b20 is just the same B20 thats used in cars ,all you has to do is get hold of one and put on the same marine parts that you had on the old one,then you have the marine vercion of the b20, sinse you are in germany i'll bet there should be a far amount of old volvos sitting around in scrapyards ,or just motors laying around in garages, and parts for the b20 is still sold all over sweden. the b20 vas used in the 140 and 240 series from 69 to 81.

[@shadowuaw-0001]

I love everything about your videos except that you keep calling bolts screws and and screws bolts. Lol.

[@The7humpwump]

Agree with the majority that the engine isn’t toast. Not bad at all, wire brush the rust away, hone the cylinder and she’ll probably run. Also it is not recommended to reuse head bolts. One other recommendation, make sure you have plenty of ventilation in your bilge…pine dry rots at the blink of an eye.

[@barthanes1]

I think you could make that engine run without too many parts. Replace the valves on that one rusty cylinder, and the head gasket. Hone the cylinder, and lap the valves. Put it back together and check compression. I think all you would need is valves for the one cylinder and a head gasket.

[@timothywalch7102]

Look at a couple of KZbin videos like vice grip garage and Jonathan w these guys have taken seized engines and made them run without doing a lot of extensive work and out-of-pocket expense

[@Sibe3244]

Have the head checked for cracks between the ports. I have the same engine and am on my fourth i think head. That engine is fixable. . If not the b20 car engine or head can be used with some modification. Ebay has some heads and blocks available. Engine parts are still available.

[@philjohnson2611]

The first thing to do is to see if you can manually rotate the engine. It appears that the main problem was a blown head gasket allowing water into the cylinder. Cleaning things up and milling/replacing the head could fix all the problems. However if it got a hydraulic lock because of the water the bottom end of the engine might be toast, hence the reason to see if you can manually rotate it.. Best of luck....

[@rabmcgregor3557]

Got to agree with lots of the comments Motor looks salvageable Looks like the head gasket blew and can probably be rebuilt quite easily Maybe a new piston and rings and check that the head is straight (can be skimmed if not) but definitely worth getting someone who knows take a proper look at it and get an estimate. Would go down this route before looking at another engine that may end up costing you even more. All the best from Scotland 👍

[@johnmorrison1180]

I couldn't help but notice you appear to using standard hardware and fastenings in your boat. In my experience these steel fittings always go rusty at a unbelievable rate, so make it a rule to only use marine fittings, and s/s fastenings, nothing worse than finding your one year old steel screws have corroded and ruined the woodwork. Things then start falling apart.

[@liongod1000]

@My First Boat *_ BTW, you live in Europe so it's ALUMINIUM ( ALU-MIN-IUM ) not American Aluminum! _*

[@danieldonaldson8634]

dude, I don't think you know enough about engines to make a call on that, and engines that aren't new can always hide more crap. You don't always win when you find "another one in running condition". Do a more thorough investigation, starting with the bottom end, cost of a cylinder head, new pistons and rings, honing. Getting the frozen piston out is what's going to tell you the most, and with the bottom end disconnected, it's much easier to figure out what you're doing and what you've got.

[@marklapierre5629]

You gave up without a fight. Keep ripping it down, then drive out the piston from the bottom using a wood dowel. After a complete tear down you will know if the engine can be rebuilt. It probably can as there appears to be no real damage to the cylinder block. You might need a new piston and a new set of piston rings but that's only if you destroy the stuck piston in the process of removing it.

[@bartrainer3916]

The engine can´t ever be optimal calibrated on the boat. Obviously you need a decent equipped workshop. And for my point of view, is not worth it.

[@waynep343]

dropped a valve seat... probably overheated the engine to do coolant flow issues.. clogged thru hull port.. water pump impeller blades fell off.. (impellers should be changed every 6 months) might want to see if the engine will still turn with the head off.. examine the top of the piston with the chunks removed to see if the piston is broken or the outside area of the piston is crushed down on the piston ring.. preventing it from spinning freely.. Huge hint.. when working on engines.. hardware and floor covering stores sell floor protection film.. its clear film with adhesive like a post it note on one side so it sticks in place.. it allows you to cover open engine openings easily.. it can also be used to seal off cabinets and doorways when you are making dust..

[@fransvanaalst8698]

Rebuild the engine, it’s better, you know exactly the condition, with a second hand engine you never know what you buy. Good luck 👍

[@TheRealIdleTime]

Looks like the riser and manifold should have been replaced at some point. Probably rusted out the water jacket and water passed through into the cylinder head.

[@Fr99763]

Water tank looks very small. If you intend to live on the boat, please install 400 to 600 liter tank(s). Hot water tank can be around 60 liters. Volvo engine is not a loss. Bring it to an engine shop and it will run like new.

[@mrrustygray]

Will we see another failed attempt at the cost of a billion dollars to the US Taxpayer, while SpaceX launches another half dozen Falcon 9s and recovers them?

[@rancillinmontgomery2480]

I think it’s an easy fix. Just take the cylinder head to a shop and have them rebuild it. Im betting the lower half is just fine. Check the book, head bolts might not be reusable.

[@burtmacklin6443]

Not ideal is an understatement... Blocking access to your bilge pump with a 30 gallon boiler is asking to sink your boat. At least tell me you installed some redundancies or plan to?

[@tylermurphy6169]

I rebuild the seam engine back 3 years ago. And it was way worse. We spent a 2 days pounding the piston out. If that one could saved this one easily could be rebuilt in a few days.

[@jeffreysalzman1497]

Sorry your muscle car boat has a hiccup. I suggest you change the motor for a big V8!