My father passed, it was a wave that took me under. Today, i have accepted and life is calm again. I am always looking for the next wave. Life is like a wave, we cant stop it, but go with the flow or crash and try again and gain.. LIfe.. life is in the sets….
@deniskostic15022 жыл бұрын
Thank you God for sending Gerry and all others surfer's and people with soul and dignity.,...
@derekcurran1253 Жыл бұрын
This is so beautiful! I know what it's like to get "caught inside," and the most important thing that I learned from it, is to always remain "calm," and maintain a collective state of mind. That is one of the most valuable lessons that I've learned in life, and it came through surfing...
@MoustacheCloud5 жыл бұрын
Crazy that I happened to stumble on this video on a different site when I think I needed it most.
@NoIwont2 жыл бұрын
damn glad to know Jerry as a fellow Oregonian now...I share your surfer beliefs jerry. Mahalo brother.
@PakeSalmon2 жыл бұрын
Love hearing this and love the wisdom from this LEGEND! "Periods of calm we can regain our position."
@michaelthomas3662 жыл бұрын
Surfers of my generation all idolized Gerry Lopez. We all wanted to be just like him--Master of pipeline!
@gsmarin1 Жыл бұрын
The Zen of Gerry…
@toneroable2 жыл бұрын
So nice Gerry, thanks for your big advise 👍 Just b/4 U went in Punta Rocas Surf competition 1974....as U were down there by the Rocks..... I was there too & w/my broken english a 16 yr old kid I was, had the pleasure to meet U & told U, it is your turn,, have a good time, catch big waves. I ask U if U needed wax......U said..." it's OK ". 👌 U gave us a Surf Lesson & U even rode a huge wave on your Chest.... I was up on the Hill w/all the amigos......clapping hands. Thanks...! . . . . . . . . . Andrés
@cudavrage3 жыл бұрын
Just keep paddling.💙
@mikelbca14 жыл бұрын
Yeah, I used to surf Hermosa brake water in the seventies. You and Mike thought you ruled the waves. Kicked the younged of us out. We never got to surf while you were around. Thanks for that experience!
@tropocal23432 жыл бұрын
*The School of hard knocks....Cool!* *Great Teachers.* *Hope you meant "Thanks" and it made you a more accomplished Surfer.* *That kind of shit did wonders for me.* *Many of the top pros, and heavy locals , became my good friends, and as a result; I traveled to exclusive spots, and surfed the kind, unreal, and death defying waves.* *Simply; Have respect, and let your surfing do the talking.*
@galaxyhitchhiker25125 жыл бұрын
Much love master
@tropocal23432 жыл бұрын
*Gerry Lopez is f#$%ing Cool!* *The Master of Flow*
@christopherraymond48262 жыл бұрын
...Mr. Zen... nicely put...
@KM-co5mx2 жыл бұрын
Exactly! 🤗
@jenniferharter75663 жыл бұрын
Thank you uncle Gary aloha🤙🤙🤙🤙
@travisspicer41943 жыл бұрын
Thank you
@jeffg46862 жыл бұрын
I think Gerry could be one of those hypnotists. Don't let him get your attn too long ... In FL, it's ALWAYS SMALL and there's ALWAYS a LOOOOONNNNNGGGG LUUULLL. Boy, it sucks. There's nothing we can do ... See what I did there. All the negative.
@trevorleggo17773 жыл бұрын
Great analagies...
@Arrow_dragon_paws2 жыл бұрын
Fantastic hero
@garykewley69434 жыл бұрын
Ty Gerry
@scottybeegood2 жыл бұрын
keep the faith
@ikahachiro Жыл бұрын
ARIGATOU.ARIGATOU.
@hoksipgau5 жыл бұрын
Mahalo Gerry for your mana'o......this is living the dream
@lavidadelinfante298011 ай бұрын
Someone knows where can be finded this full film?
@PalhaMan4 жыл бұрын
Confirmo :-) Surf the Life :-)
@paulbradleysmith43742 жыл бұрын
I have noting but love and respect for this man...BUT I am curious how he got involved with making those terrible soft tops that are polluting garages everywhere..not line ups..because they are the worst boards ever...??
@michaeldowell8188 Жыл бұрын
" keep paddling "
@rossmcleod33173 жыл бұрын
When will Hawaiians admit it was the Australians who first started riding pipeline. 👹
@tropocal23432 жыл бұрын
*Ssshhh!... don't tell anyone, but Californians did -> (Phil Edwards).* *But you know what; NO ONE surfed it as effortlessly as Jerry.* *He didn't "Rip it", he became part of the wave, flowed with the power, and made it look easy.*