OUTBOARD SALT REMOVAL HACK

Quick way to tackle outboard salt deposits. This method will bring back even the worst build ups of salt, calcium, rust deposits on your outboard cooling jackets, thermostat housings and much more. Please be advised, that this product LIME AWAY is not intended for use on aluminum nor on engines. however I have been using this method for years with no ill effects. it is safer than using straight muriatic acid and the cost is a no brainer at 1$ a bottle. I recommend trying to remove the most amount of buildup first with a SS bristle brush or SS bristle drill attachment for best results.
***Make sure to rinse off and flush the engine with plenty of fresh water to neutralize the reaction that is taking place. I like to run the engine for 10 minutes after the procedure.***
Please like and subscribe if it works for you!

[@theguideschoice429]

Thanks for the video, I’m gonna try this on my old 40hp Yamaha I purchased for Crappie fishing, Capt. Vic

[@jbuchan8114]

I worked for the company that makes that product. I was made for descaling dishwashers in restaurants and hotels. If the restaurant did not have a water softener lime scale would build up on the heating elements and burn them out. This product imho is a perfect product for removing the scale.

[@ReelTeaseFishing]

Great information, thank you!

[@daddynowski]

Whats the product lol

[@scottmichael3745]

@@daddynowski lime-a-way dude. That was the whole point of the video.

[@wazup3333]

It's not too acidic/aggressive for the insides of the engine, gaskets etc??

[@treashurehunter800]

I've learnt a flex shaft Dremel works best.knock the big stuff down.then use your favorite deposit remover.youll be twice as ecstatic by making parts look new. The right tool works wonders.😁

[@steveadams8487]

I run my Yamaha two-stroke 50 horse in the Indian river, which is considered salt water. About every 3 to 4 months I run my engine in 100 gallon tub with about 6 gallons of vinegar and several good squirts of Dawn dish detergent. I let that run for about 20 minutes, idling at about 1500 to 2000 RPMs. It seems to remove all of the salt and mineral deposits in my water jacket and thermostat housing. Have you ever tried that? What are your thoughts on how I am trying to keep it clean?

[@ReelTeaseFishing]

That is a great method. I have done the same treatment but usually do the vinegar bath and soap bath separately. I will try the mix next time. I bet your engine is in great shape 👍🏽 Thanks for the feedback

[@leeseo.1420]

Hi! I have the following questions hope you can reply to me: My boat is in the sea, I can't go ashore for repairs, and I don't have fresh water. Can I put LIME AWAY in the hole of the thermostat, then close the lid of the thermostat tightly, wait 15 minutes, then start the engine and let the water cooling system run to get the salt out, is that possible? Also, I want to ask: your video says to turn off all the batteries, so how does the engine start, and how does the water cooling system work? Looking forward to your reply! A man from Hong Kong

[@ReelTeaseFishing]

Hello, thank you for watching the video. I don’t think the lime away is safe to dump into the water. Could cause harm to sea life. Aside from that I think if you open up the thermostats and allow the lime away to sit in them for 15-20 minutes put back all the parts and start it up, it will work just as well. I say have batteries off if you are going to flush the engine with the thermostat housing open so that water flows out of the housing. This method is done with a garden hose attached to the flushing attachment. Thanks again for watching

[@brenterwin99611]

A word of caution, almost all acids will eat aluminum, and quite quickly. This holds true with mild acids, even vinegar. Make sure you only have a short duration of soak and thoroughly flush out your motor, or you could do more damage than good.

[@ReelTeaseFishing]

This is correct, the most important step in this whole process is to flush out the engine with enough clean fresh water to neutralize the acid.

[@motiveismalaysia8091]

one or two time per year is okay. just flush with water everyday. ✌

[@ReelTeaseFishing]

@@motiveismalaysia8091 Flushing the engine with fresh water is the most important part!

[@MRMIKE276]

@@ReelTeaseFishing Maybe sprinkle a little baking soda in there too for good measure. I etch metal at my work and we use baking soda to neutralize literally everything.

[@ReelTeaseFishing]

@@MRMIKE276 that’s solid advice!

[@tonyfnb]

What do you think about trimming your motor back to hold more of the lime away in ?

[@ReelTeaseFishing]

It could be helpful, I have not tried that but does sound like it could be a good idea

[@antonioprado8068]

@@ReelTeaseFishing I use sulfamic acid in a hose mix cup. What do you think

[@ReelTeaseFishing]

@@antonioprado8068 sulfamic acid should work just as well. The acid found in lime away is hydrochloric acid. Both are considered strong acids. And must be washed out of the system with a lot of water to dilute and neutralize the acid in the engine.

[@PescayCazaUSA]

Buena esa brother , saludos

[@ReelTeaseFishing]

Gracias!

[@amywas1]

thanks, happy fishing cobber.

[@ReelTeaseFishing]

Thanks for watching!

[@ballardtaleck3321]

You do not get worried about all that water getting dumped into the engine cover? Is there a solution to make it flow over the rear engine cover?

[@ReelTeaseFishing]

Outboard engines are developed to be in wet environments. For the most part all electrical is in a waterproof sleeve, connector etc. electrical components usually sealed. In the Saltwater environment it’s not uncommon to hose down the outboard to remove salt buildup. I just recommend spray it down after with a corrosion inhibitor. Make sure it’s rubber friendly

[@vanislerider7311]

Why not run CLR or deleted lime away through the system from a bucket or barrel?

[@ReelTeaseFishing]

In this video I am just tackling the thermostat housings and thermostat passages as I was doing a thermostat replacement. But yes, running it through the flushing port or in a basin with the engine or a pump will work great for a full descale

[@CUBICHI1985]

Cool hack bro! Do you think this would also work diluted with water in a bucket/tank used for flushing the lower unit of my outboard; and if so how do much do you think the ratio of lime away to water would need to be? I recently bought an outboard that was used in saltwater its entire life and when I tore into it to inspect it I found a lot of corrosion just like yours in the cavities behind the inner anode and thermostat housings.. so I sprayed some vinegar-dawn dishsoap-water mixture I found online that I use to clean my showers with when removing calcium deposits and it works pretty well.. I just dont know who safe it would be to inject the stuff into the cooling ports/cavities.. I was just going to dilute with water and run it in a flushing tank.. but seeing you do this kinda has me thinking it should be good.. so long as its flushed with fresh water afterwards.. lmk your thoughts.. good video!!👍

[@ReelTeaseFishing]

I think you will have better results if you have access to the heads by removing the thermos or anodes. Running it with the engine will work too but I think it will not be as effective since contact time will not be as long nor as concentrated. However if its the only option, I think it will still work. Even better option will probably be to remove the lower unit and connect a pump to the cooling tube/pick up tube that the impeller connects to and run the pump using that bucket/tank idea. this way you can run it for an hour or two and not have the water heating up since the engine will be off. I think one 24 oz bottle per 5 gallons would be a good ratio

[@GuthrieBoys]

Nice Hack!

[@ReelTeaseFishing]

Thank you 👍🏽

[@theoldshooter5631]

I will be taking my pontoon boat up the Neuse River in NC and that is really brackish water. I will be using a public boat launch to both launch and recover. There is no water faucet to hook a hose up to for at minimum an initial flushing with just plain no salt water. My thought is to have a couple gallons of mixed salt away and water and with a funnel get it down the two flush ports I have on my Suzuki 150. Once I complete the 3 1/2 to 4 hour drive home, I will go through the full de-salinization process properly. What are your thoughts on my plan??

[@ReelTeaseFishing]

I think you will be fine doing your trip and enjoying the boat. Give it a good rinse when you get back. We go down to the FL keys and leave the boat in the saltwater for a week at a time and do a lengthy flush with plain water when we get it back on a trailer. Enjoy it and flush it when you are done 👍🏽

[@ReelTeaseFishing]

Think about it like this. Running it for a day in salt or fresh water will have alittle but if buildup when the water dries in it’s passages. Then next outing it will heat up and flush all the contents out as water runs through the system. That’s salt/brackish/freshwater makes no real difference. And so the cycle continues. Very little is really left behind after a short few days of use. Once back on land flush with water and salt away. That’s best thing. It’s when engines aren’t flushed with fresh water and are let to sit for periods of time that scale really starts to take hold. Hope it makes sense

[@theoldshooter5631]

@@ReelTeaseFishing Hey thanks for the come back. Yep it does. The idea was just to get some de-scaler on the Impaler before the long drive home. Thanks.

[@daddyfixit5188]

Industrial lime scale remover is great as shown I use this method and even better run the engine in a dustbin add product to water and let engine run until water gets warm Clears it all out 👍👍👍👍

[@ReelTeaseFishing]

That is a great method! thanks for the input

[@randyroth383]

Just 1 thing not to strong or to long of it sitting in there burn thru the paper gaskets good job👍

[@daddyfixit5188]

Acid would have to be smoking to damage gasket. One litre in a dustbin full of water did not even damage my skin. Remember this is toilet lime scale remover not brick acid 👍👍👍👍

[@jameelsmith3566]

How'd you get the fresh water to run thru engine?

[@ReelTeaseFishing]

Added a hose to the hose connector on the engine. If your engine doesn’t have that feature, use the ear muffs/rabbit ears for flushing the outboard via lower unit.

[@mitch7099]

Would this have any negative affects on new anodes? Old anodes were a mess! And now I'm here watching videos for my overheating Yamaha

[@ReelTeaseFishing]

If you are in the process of replacing anodes I’d highly recommend flushing without any anodes. Since anodes are considered sacrificial and are a weaker material they will be affected by the acids. Very minimally but best to flush without them

[@kennethryan9788]

Were you having overheating problems before? If do, Did this solve the overheating problem?

[@ReelTeaseFishing]

Yes there was an overheat issue. Doing this and replacing the thermos solved the overheat.

[@eemsmuhammad3803]

Can you use CLR as a cleaner ?

[@ReelTeaseFishing]

I have used it, and in my opinion the Lime away works better. I think the gel consistency keeps the contact time longer. But both essentially work

[@AEeminc]

Does this clogg up the tail tale?

[@ReelTeaseFishing]

It could, just use compressed air to blow it out or pass 2ft of 80lb mono up the pee hole to unclog

[@boashna]

man that calcium build up is the only reason I am not getting water in my oil system lol

[@johncassidy897]

Question I don’t have an external water hook up. Have you done this than turned the engine on to flush the water with the muffs. Could it create a clog somewhere else if I where to do this? The muffs is my only option any feedback would be great. Thank you

[@ReelTeaseFishing]

I would run the engine without the thermos & housing for about 30 seconds just to flush the heads of larger debris. then shut down and install covers without thermos to let the water really circulate and flush. Then install thermos with gaskets and flush again

[@johncassidy897]

@@ReelTeaseFishing thanks man.. so what you saying is take thermo covers off pour lime away in holes put the muffs on and start the engine, let the water run out the holes for 30 seconds than put covers back on and start and flush the system? It be ok to have the water running down the spark plugs and wires while power is going to them? I got the main computer board in the back of the motor with all the electric connectors . I just figured I asked before I short something out ya know. Have you done it this ways before? Thanks for info and getting back to me man much appreciated.

[@ReelTeaseFishing]

@@johncassidy897 no problem, I cannot guarantee anything but the computers on these engines are sealed units. The wiring connections are and should also be sealed. I have done this with no issues. However it’s not to say that it can’t happen. If you are worried about the water dripping down the outboard electronics then skip the step of running without the covers and just flush the engine after the lime away has been added by just removing thermos and running it without thermos. (Remove thermostats and install housing back on) flush for 10 minutes. You can also remove the lower unit and install a pump in a trash can with the lime away mixture and attach pump with a hose to the pickup tube and run it through the system for 30-45minutes. This would be the best option (longest contact time) and does not require the outboard to be on. After the 45 minutes I’d then flush it with clean water for 10-15min.

[@johncassidy897]

@@ReelTeaseFishing thanks for the time brother I really appreciate it.

[@magosteamj1243]

Im flush once a year muriatic accid work 100%

[@ToolManTaylor]

Wouldn't it work if you diluted the lime away in a bucket of water and ran the engine for a while

[@ReelTeaseFishing]

I would think so, it would be diluted but it would still work. Just can’t run it too long as it will overheat

[@philldownes8685]

Run it in a watter but with lime away or toilet cleaner. When run the motor in thd butt the temp will raise to normal and work much better. 15 mins then rinse motor on water tap and muffs. Keep all the crap out.

[@wazup3333]

@@ReelTeaseFishing why would it overheat

[@ReelTeaseFishing]

@@wazup3333 the thermos we’re covered in corrosion and salt. New thermostats and cleaning the thermostat housing solved it

[@bigfishy7816]

Or if you have a good motor use rydlime once a year . And flush with fresh every time you take it out

[@josepeixoto3384]

i't's the Muriatic Acid in it , or Hidrochloric Acid, same thing, it has these 2 names.

[@tydengr]

did you flush every time you go?

[@ReelTeaseFishing]

Yes I flush everytime for about 5-10 min with fresh water. Boating in saltwater does not forgive

[@mickireland2421]

Water blaster 👍

[@dewaynesmith8925]

All that corrosion in there would drive me insane

[@ReelTeaseFishing]

Corrosion is definitely a headache. This engine in particular is an 1988 and lived it’s whole life in saltwater.

[@CaptDavesSportfishing]

RYDLYME IS MORE $$ BUT IS BETTER....it'll eat a sea shell. it's good for using on a genuine maintenance schedule.

[@ReelTeaseFishing]

It’s great if the parts are removed. And can be submerged in the rydlyne But the contact time if poured down the heads are not long enough to work as well as the gel form in lime away.

[@josefbleaux6724]

Will the rabbit ears get the water all the way up to the thermostats?

[@ReelTeaseFishing]

Yes, it should however some areas and cities have lower water pressure than others. This can be an issue sometimes when flushing causing overheat alarm to go off. But yes, the rabbit ears will flush out the entire cooling system. Allow the engine to get to temperature so the thermos can open.

[@josefbleaux6724]

@@ReelTeaseFishing I use the rabbit ears when the motor is running. But will it work if the motor is off?

[@ReelTeaseFishing]

@@josefbleaux6724 rabbit ears ONLY work when the motor is running.

[@pieroserrano]

I live in miami, do you have anyone that can deep clean my motor? And change a seal?

[@ReelTeaseFishing]

If it’s a Yamaha. Carlos from Strictly Yamaha is your best bet. All other brand outboards I’d recommend Pablo from CAS Marine or Erik’s Outboards.

[@pieroserrano]

@@ReelTeaseFishingthank you so much bro.. but I call them both, they do Yamaha only... I need someone for a 225 honda 2015.. please help. 🙏

[@ReelTeaseFishing]

@@pieroserrano Not too many Honda guys in South Florida. There’s Joel at Great Outboards in Pompano. He’s rated 5 stars on multiple platforms. Sea Sea Marine in Boca is a Honda Dealer with Mechanics on site but might be on the more expensive side. Hope it helps. I know it’s a bit of a drive but will resolve your issue

[@ReelTeaseFishing]

@@pieroserrano there’s Dalton Marine in Naranja. They are a Honda dealer as well

[@pieroserrano]

@@ReelTeaseFishing awesome bro thank you lots... ill call them tomorrow .. let you know thank you again brother...

[@hucknbarry3496]

Alot of Clr in a tub really douches that stuff out

[@adl2005]

put parts in your dish washer

[@ReelTeaseFishing]

Haha, that may work. Might also be single by summer LOL

[@adl2005]

@@ReelTeaseFishing just do it when she’s out, I do - car manifolds come out well 👍

[@Javservice]

For what I can see that motor was very poorly maintained..

[@ReelTeaseFishing]

Could be , or could be that its a 32 year old engine. (1988)

[@davidrasmussen2975]

Those are deposits, not corrosion

[@ReelTeaseFishing]

yes you are correct

[@miningwayne935]

This video is somewhat misleading! Pouring that small amount of liquid through the thermostat hole would MAYBE clean about 1% of the water jackets/passages in your outboard!!!

[@andrewdigiacomo7689]

Why would he put water all over the spark plugs in on the inside I don’t think he knows what the hell he’s doing

[@ReelTeaseFishing]

It’s actually pretty common practice to lightly rinse a saltwater engine at the end of the season. Fresh water won’t hurt a thing as long as you don’t spray it into the computer components. And even then, those connections are made to be waterproof.

[@ttm2609]

It's an acid tho, eating away at the aluminum thus displacing the mineral/corrosion deposits, i dont agree with this!!

[@ReelTeaseFishing]

You are correct in the fact that it is an acid. However concentrations are mild enough that unless it sits on the aluminum for hours it won’t cause any harm. On the bottle it even states that it is for use on stainless and aluminum equipment. As stated on the video a long flush with water will help dilute and neutralize the product.