How to Build Ice Climbing Anchors

IFMGA guide Patrick Ormond explains how to build ice anchors.

[@spacenaglfar]

cheers from Ukraine! Thanks for fresh tips

[@akaTheDevil]

woot woot first

[@akaTheDevil]

Does it matter if the screws are horizontal or on vertical ice?

[@ski4life9]

Yes it does! The angle the screw goes in is important! Should placed perpendicular or tilted slight up from perpendicular.

[@ski4life9]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/enuYg4uPd5uAjdk Here’s a link of the same guy explaining how to place a screw properly

[@akaTheDevil]

@@ski4life9 what I mean is the way he setup his first anchor. It's perpendicular to the ice but on horizontal surface, does it matter versus vertical ice when the angle of the climber is directly below

[@ski4life9]

@akaTheDevil ahhhh no it doesn’t matter as long as you take care to not have carabiners being “bent” over rocks or anything. An anchor like that would be more effective for top roping or belaying a second from above but wouldn’t be ideal for continuing up another pitch.

[@akaTheDevil]

@@ski4life9 sweet thanks!