Ice climbing Techniques - Ice screw placement, anchors and V-threads | Petzl Tech Tips

This film demonstrates proper ice screw placement technique, as well as how to set an anchor and a v-thread in waterfall ice. We will discuss the key technical elements, but remember that when swinging your tools into the ice, it is crucial to understand the medium on which you are climbing. The quality of the ice, its structure, the terrain above, recent changes in temperature - all these factors and others must be considered before you step off the ground and onto the ice.
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[@calinvasile4695]

Ok , i am ready now...hold my beer

[@johnjachens7103]

😂 climb on

[@richbata7354]

Really well produced

[@PetzlSportVideos]

Thank you !

[@alejoenhispania]

Petzl many thanks for these videos. Clear and instructive, right to the point. Keep making them.

[@aacc2622]

Great Video!! Perfect explanation and camera shot angles, thanx for posting 👍🏼

[@WhiskyPankcake]

This is insane! I like it!

[@SHAFIQKHANYOUTUBETV]

Great job 👏

[@MRehmankhan]

Great video👌👌

[@samcooper7062]

thanks that was very helpful

[@fgfg633]

I'd be tangled up in ropes in about 10 minutes.

[@SWISSPOWERJET]

best movie ever good help to unterstand thanks

[@icepick9002]

Incredible

[@shigeruhashimoto9945]

great! thanks.

[@MRehmankhan]

Very Good 👌👌❤

[@Lone_Rocket]

I don't know why im watching this. I have no intention of ive climbing at anypoint. But yet im watching this video.

[@johnx911]

nice

[@skibackcountry2083]

LOVE

[@nickerzgames]

Omg, your rope freezing up in a multipitch rappel. That's some nightmare fuel

[@ericduan19]

(i'm not a climber & saw this video) 2:48 i was like "yeah put your rope on an ice screw, that'd be safe" 3:48 "WTF is happening?"

[@marcmontero2260]

Same, at first it was like, yeah pretty basic, i could think of that, then its like dayum i maybe need a 1000 page manual to understand

[@ALizardInCrimpson]

I'm a rock climber and not an ice climber, and I'm over here like dafuk r they doing in winter

[@michaelmardini346]

At 05m25s, tension seems to be distributed on both the V-thread and on the back up ice screw (if not, it is quite close, even if it seems to be ok because the climber is pulling the rope to the left...). The purpose of this is to confirm that the v-thread can hold 100% of the weight of a climber, but by having a back-up, just in case; if it held the 1st climber, then the 2nd climber can remove the back-up ice screw and do its descent. I agree that you want to avoid a shock if the v-thread fails by keeping a minimum "gap"...But I think that 2 inches could be a good compromise. At 05m53s...is the climber is putting its life on just one ice screw? maybe he had put some stopping knot on the rope below him? but for sure, he is not holding the rope at all! That being said, standing on a very confortable ledge back-up on 1 ice screw is ok with me...but it is sure not recommanded. what do you think guys? Thank anyway petzl, i like all your videos!

[@graysenallen4520]

i guess im randomly asking but does someone know a tool to log back into an Instagram account?? I stupidly lost the login password. I appreciate any tips you can offer me

[@vicenteweston7792]

@Graysen Allen Instablaster :)

[@graysenallen4520]

@Vicente Weston I really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm trying it out atm. Takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.

[@graysenallen4520]

@Vicente Weston it worked and I actually got access to my account again. Im so happy! Thanks so much you saved my account!

[@vicenteweston7792]

@Graysen Allen no problem :D

[@AGH331]

Does anyone know which jacket the guy in the 'Building a V thread' (from 4:15) section is wearing?!

[@LSDemon]

no sliding x?

[@joesolo]

Screws hold better at 100deg reduces the bend u get when at 90deg

[@Kreuzass]

10 degrees "hanging", right!

[@zeitgeist785]

Says who? You could well be right but without some other source, it’s just an opinion of someone with a KZbin account.

[@mponce661]

Noob question : When the climbers come down, do they leave gear behind ??? Like the climber that was setting many anchors along the way on his way up, do those anchors stay behind when he comes down ?

[@TrackpadProductions]

Usually you strip a route on the way down by rappelling. Sometimes the second strips them on the way up, I think, depending on the route. It's not unheard of that protection sometimes gets left behind, though, especially in multi-pitches.

[@fab1000]

On multipitch you do leave the acessory cord on the V-thread. On popular routes it is common to see anchors that were already set up by others, if they seems ok enough for you, you just use it.

[@mponce661]

@@fab1000 so on a new rock where there’s no anchors , the climbers are the ones that set them , Right ?

[@fab1000]

@@mponce661 Yes but only for the way down when you rappel. For the way up you do normal belays on screws and the follower remove the screws before leaving the belay. The only time you would really use a V-Thread on the way up is if you are short on screws. Not Rocks btw, this is ice. Rock protections are something else.

[@1M0dem1]

3 cams for a traditional anchor but only 2 ice screws in much less stable medium? seems counter intuitive to me. maybe a v thread + a screw, but just two screws? I don't even top rope off just two screws.

[@nathanadam8722]

It's got nothing to do with the screws, it's all about how good the ice that the screws are in. The screws are rated for big Kn's but if you put them in really shit ice then they are next to useless. Three ice screws in terrible ice isn't gonna do much more than two screws in the same ice. It's like putting three cams in a chossy crack, its a shit place for gear so more isn't gonna make it much different.

[@Kreuzass]

a well placed ice scew in good ice is as solid as a concrete bold

[@drew2046]

do you have to do a multi rope climb for ice or can you do single rope?

[@fab1000]

Depending of the length of the potential rappels both are acceptable but many people are freaking out at the idea of swinging sharp tools around a single rope...

[@LAGAN00LAGAN]

I want to baughtht it .....plz tell me

[@user-qf9pq8ot9x]

Кто этим ребятам поставил дизлайк?

[@alek-by7rm]

5:20 he's attached in only one point, is that ok?

[@rosslesslie9976]

In this case yes for 2 reasons. First, he is still on lead belay. So if he were to fall, his belayer will catch him. That's obviously not ideal, which leads to the second reason. He is at a stance and could probably stand there and screw his v-thread without a back up if he felt like it. Obviously not so smart, so the single point is the back up to his stance.

[@alek-by7rm]

@@rosslesslie9976 thx for your reply, you are right :) so not ideal but still not a problem

[@adammiller9179]

@@rosslesslie9976 No he was not on lead belay. He was setting up for rappel. But his was standing on a ledge. His weight was not on the screw.

[@mansoorthottiyil]

What to do with the tools if they are separated from the iceberg

[@kamalthapa8800]

How much ice screw cost?

[@PiggoNZ]

"And a healthy dose of..." there were many other also-correct ways to finish that sentence.

[@user-ju9hg9er8w]

Todo OK menos el rappell,

[@MartinCouture]

If you would like to add fun moments in this list from our climber group in Montreal, go see this kzbin.info/www/bejne/eYGUhaV5o5qVbZY

[@ramascice12]

its just too difficult for me even to watch it, seems like some competition with bunch of ropes, bolts, cabs .so ice climbing not for me definately

[@janeclimber]

Clip a biner on another biner is not the optimal choice. In the rare but possible event of first biner fails, it will also take out the guy who clipped onto the second biner. Sorry to see Petzl did not take the safest practice under this circumstance.

[@JamieBenoir]

@@HupFejKop-pw8vh I think she meant that there was a locking beener through the masterpoint of the anchor and the second clipped their beener into that, not the masterpoint of shelf. In this case it seems perfectly safe to me, but it's not the best practice and as such probably shouldn't be shown in an instructional video.

[@rosslesslie9976]

There's nothing wrong with that

[@chrisberquist2916]

The biner to biner connections at the masterpoint seem like an obvious no no

[@MichalPuncochar]

why?

[@rosslesslie9976]

Metal on metal is fine. We do it all the time (karabiners on bolts, screws, wired stoppers). Why wouldn't it be ok in an anchor?

[@59plexi]

do they come back to retrieve the ice screws...or do spring climbers go.."hey bruh....check it out...found me some ice anchors dude......!!"🤠

[@whitemountain]

The leader builds an anchor and then the second cleans the gear on their way up while being belayed from above.

[@shandoticwa]

he should have a carabinar attached to the ice screw in case he looses it while sticking in ice - a common mistake beginners do.

[@fab1000]

the biner will just get in the way... no one screw with the biner on already / You can only do that with purposed build Salewa screws

[@shandoticwa]

@@fab1000 how to protect it from falling? actually they taught this trick in a mountaineering school. felt legit to me back then.

[@fab1000]

@@shandoticwa Experience :) to be honest there is always a risk it will fall, especially when you re a beginner or when the ice is really cold and hard coz it is hard to screw. Most of the time you can retreive it on your way down. Those Salewa Quick screw offer a elegant solution but they are $$...

[@rickytrockclimbing2935]

5:33 and leave 50 dollars worth of gear there? Nah

[@alek-by7rm]

only first one is rapelling like that, the last one teakes out the ice screw

[@sutitomi]

@@alek-by7rm And how is he/she decending from there, then? 😀

[@alek-by7rm]

@@sutitomi the last one is rappeling in the rope that remains there. The ice screw is a backup for the first one

[@josephstearn3393]

I climb ice. This video is a waste of time. Learn from someone who knows what they’re talking about.

[@PetzlSportVideos]

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