How to Build and Rappel off of a V-Thread Anchor on a Multi-Pitch Ice Climb

AMGA Guide Patrick Ormond explains how to construct and transition to a v-thread anchor midway through descending a multipitch ice climb.

[@olddirtydoggy]

At last! A vid showing the method with both climbers. Most just show a single climber escaping.

[@themountainknights]

Great stuff. I really admire OR Instructor's.

[@sophiakukurovska8083]

Thank you! Great video

[@ajacobs223]

would prefer a 3rd hand over a firefighters to back up my rappel so I could use both hands to clean the anchor but this works too. nice first shot V-thread

[@kevinw1129]

Excellent

[@larryborshard7824]

Great narration, great demo! Interesting that y'all clean your screws by tapping or blowing from the hanger end out the blades end, when the screw is designed with a taper in the opposite direction. Also interesting that you don't use an autoblock(rappel) backup (a.k.a. third hand). And interesting that you use a V-thread (horizontal holes) and a convex feature when I believe A-thread (vertical holes) and concave features are stronger. I'd love a Reply so I can learn if I am misunderstanding these concepts. Thanks again!

[@misterlarryb]

My bad and my apologies! On second watch, I see the autoblock rappel brake backup. Further apologies for armchair speculating V vs A-thread. First, stronger doesn't matter, strong enough matters. And I imagine (but will experiment) that an A-thread introduces more rope drag as a "zero-thread," when pulling the rope down. Thanks again!

[@misterlarryb]

Continued profuse apologies! I have taken training, reading, opinions, hearsay and anecdotal information, mixed in a few of my own hasty conclusions, and forgot to use reasonable judgment and respectful consideration. Sorry! I thought ice screws were internally tapered so that crushed ice easily exits the hanger end- heard it or read it somewhere. But today a discussion board said nope, not tapered. As for V thread vs A thread, as in most situations, it depends. Some folks prefer one over the other for different reasons. Either is fine for the low loads of rappelling. Convex or concave, the ice quality always has to be evaluated. I'm learning, slowly. Again, sorry for my overly and wrongly critical OP. Thanks again for a great demo and narration!

[@mountainmystic1]

Would it have been a good idea for Lindsey to stay clipped into the anchor as well at 7:02 mark when you started your rappel? That way she also had a backup or at least used a 'third hand' on the line?

[@GeoffreyGonzales]

sick

[@alexreed2510]

So the V thread system has been tested by the first climber rapping down, but once the 2 screws are removed, there is no longer any backup for the second climber, correct? Is the theory just that, since the V thread worked for first climber, its sufficently safe for second climber to weight it without any backup?

[@oktawiangornik1284]

Indeed.

[@mls01981]

Just for completeness, it should be emphasized that if the ropes do not reach the ground, or it is a multi-pitch rappel, a stopper know should be tied in the other end of the rope too. Otherwise, a fantastic and well-shot instructional video.

[@eduvanzeller]

Why? They are pre-threading , so 1 knot should be enough.

[@fosterkarcha6104]

Stacking rappels locks the rope (i.e. it cannot run through your belay device if you hit the single stopper knot). An additional knot isn't necessary.