Oven Won't Bake Evenly - Troubleshooting | Repair & Replace

[@AmreSupply]

Need a new oven element? ** Free Shipping ** on all oven elements in Canada. Retail sales only: www.amresupply.com/search?q=Elements&categories=ExactFitBakeGrillConvectionElements,UniversalFitBakeElements,ExactFitBroilWarmingElements,UniversalFitBroilElements

[@AmreSupply]

Did this video help you troubleshoot your oven? Did you run into any hurdles? Let us know in the comments!

[@Raymonddoc1]

Such an excellent set of tutorials. THank you.

[@AmreSupply]

You're welcome Raymond, we're just happy to help! We're currently working on a refrigerator series to expand on our appliance repairs!

[@jadyaacoub]

Awesome video

[@AmreSupply]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@woody3590]

I have an older stove and just recently after turning the stove on to bake the top of the stove is so hot I can barely touch it. It seems all the heat is escaping thru a hole in the back left element hole that goes directly into the inside of the oven???

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. It is normal for hot air to rise out of the oven. All ovens will have a small vent or opening that lets some hot air escape This prevents the pressure from building up too much. Depending on the heat setting and the duration of the bake setting that rear burner might be quite hot.

[@vincentf.5121]

Hello! We have a Maytag oven (2-3 years old) which was working fine until the baking element was burned out & broken. We found about the broken element when smoke started coming out of the oven during baking. We installed a new bake element that was supplied by the manufacturer. However, the oven would now struggle to go above 300 degrees C. It doesn't get red after baking started for 15 minutes and temperature hovers just below 300 degrees. We did the continuity test with the multimeter and the beep is audible for as long as we touch the probes on the element terminals. Ohm reading was between 16.3 - 16.9. We also checked the voltage of the oven's element terminals connectors with the multimeter and it reported around 119.x volts (we're in Canada). So it looks as though the oven is supplying enough current to the bake element? Could you let me know what you think the problem is with my oven?

[@vincentf.5121]

P.s., Top element works fine and gets red quickly

[@AmreSupply]

Hi Vincent, thank you for watching. If you've replaced the bake element with an element of the same wattage, and it's getting voltage but not heating up enough, then it's worth checking the temperature sensor. kzbin.info/www/bejne/oJ_XkKCLrMl_btE The temperature sensor is a heat sensitive resistor. If the sensor is faulty / if the resistances is off, the control board might misinterpret the temperature.

[@vincentf.5121]

@@AmreSupply Thanks for your reply. I tried connecting the two test leads from the multimeter to the two connectors that is suppose to connect to the bake element and turned the oven to bake. The voltage reading is between 119 - 120 volts. Is that normal?

[@AmreSupply]

@@vincentf.5121 The bake and broil elements run off of 220 - 240 volts which is supplied by two 120 V lines. A reading of 120 V for that isolated test isn't normal. If the broil element heats up normally and the stove elements work normally, then you know that your range is getting the full 240V of power. In this case it could be an issue with the control board. kzbin.info/www/bejne/hYO3mmeigd6ip9k If you're unsure that your range is getting the 240V of power then you can always test the power / power cord: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rYvaqZito5eqapY

[@vincentf.5121]

@@AmreSupply Thanks for getting back to me! Upon further checking (with the oven set to bake), when multimeter is attached to both baking element spade connectors, it gives a reading of 120V. It gives a reading of 0 when the leads are connected to the left spade connector and to ground, and a reading of 120v when the leads are connected to the right spade connector and to ground. The top element works without any issues and gets hot quickly. The stove top also works fine. The control board looks ok without any signs of damage or burn marks. I'm thinking of replacing the relays on the control board as it is much cheaper than replacing the entire control board itself; do you think that would help?