Wilton Baby Bullet 12

[@pfrieden1]

I've really been enjoying this series. Lots of people demonstrate techniques, but this includes all of the context and problem solving that leads up to applying the techniques. I think this is much more effective for understanding why and when to use them. Thanks!

[@josephwilson6651]

I hope whomever receives this box truly appreciates the fact that master machinists such as yourself have worked on all the parts provided within.

[@robgerrits4097]

12 maybe 13 or 14 video's to make a small vice. The hours involved. The headaces in thinking it out. That's what I call a hobby! Nice serie Tom. Keep on going!

[@WanderingLion72]

I'm a new guy to machining. To supplement my learning from school, I watch your videos (along with Abom79 and others). You (and other fellas) make it look so easy. I wish someone had given me the machining and T&D maker options when I was a kid. Always informative and entertaining. Keep up the great videos.

[@danielarmes150]

Thank you Mr. Lipton, I have really enjoyed all your videos but have notice lately that you are taking the time to show your "hands on the wheels" and the sounds the machine is making. I only wish I could express how much this has helped me. Thanks again for taking the time. Danny

[@duobob]

It seems like the down feed kicking out is pretty common on Bridgeports and clones. I have no idea what causes it. My mill is a Millrite, which is always in arm-strong mode. You show and describe some nice approaches to the work flow to eliminate working yourself into a corner with no good way to hold onto it. A lot of machining can be learned from videos, but proper planning is almost never mentioned. Thanks for including it in your projects, it is priceless training for me.

[@bendavanza]

Whenever a new video from you pops up in my feed, I smile. Today I learned how to figure out the radius size when using a boring head! Great tip. This is an excellent series.

[@pooslipper]

Really enjoying this build, a lot of different techniques and skills on display! The finished vice is going to be a thing of beauty.

[@rickbrandt9559]

This is one of the better DIY how to videos available. THANKS>

[@outsidescrewball]

Thank you for the lesson on setting the radius on the boring bar!

[@KnolltopFarms]

+outsidescrewball I too enjoyed that. I am left a little confused though, but that isn't rare, so in light of that fact maybe asking a question will help. I hope all is well with you and your family, take care...Aloha, the other Chuck.

[@killejano]

Allways nice to learn new things. This was ne to me too. I used to cut a bore on piece of scrap to set my borin head.

[@Clickspring]

Really enjoyed that radius setting tip Tom, thank you.

[@oxtoolco]

+Clickspring My pleasure. Thanks for stopping by. I know how hard it is to keep up on content. All the best, Tom

[@GogogoFolowMe]

Ow, awesome to see some youtubers crossing their path ;D

[@wyattoneable]

It's amazing what skill and having the right tools can produce. I'm loving this series.

[@wheelitzr2]

Hey Bill keep up the good work!

[@larrysperling8801]

really good video. setting the boring bar radius was especially interesting. a lot of good machining and fabricating techniques throughout this build. can't wait for the next one.

[@roncartwright8125]

This gets better and better! Great job.

[@stargatefred]

You continue to amaze me. Every week you show us your art form. Keep up the good work. Bill in Seattle.

[@JeffreyVastine]

Excellent work Tom! Watching everything coming together is inspiring to those in my youth outreach. I truly appreciate your time and effort expended to share this project.

[@livinlifefishin]

It's gonna be nicer and more precise than the Wilton.....Awesome. I am really learning a lot. I love this series. Nice work.

[@Abom79]

Clean work Tom! Vise is taking shape nicely!

[@Gsimfab]

I really like how you set the radius 👍 I will definitely be using that. I have been marching for several years and have never seen someone do it like that.

[@oxtoolco]

+GSI Machine and Fabrication Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@howder1951]

Looking good Tom, I really appreciate the explanations, you make it look so easy for a guy like me who would be scratching his head for a while before this procedures would come to me. Great work

[@MrShobar]

I've been anxiously waiting for this part. Many thanks, Tom.

[@CobaltSeven0]

Hey Tom. Nice camera shots of the different aspects of the mill during operations, it really makes for interesting video.

[@tsw199756]

Im old school and I like your vise project very much but having been a Patternmaking all my working career I have done more grinding and filing to shape things than I care to think about. I would take your SolidWorks model drop it in my Mastercam software and program my CNC to save the hand work and fudge factors. Just me!!! Keep up the good work some of the younger viewers probably don't know how to do it the manual way.

[@tristanprice1830]

b e a utiful work love the baby bullet build series and all of your other videos as well thank you for sharing this with us!

[@billdlv]

Looks good Tom I like your method for setting the boring bar.

[@sanddan525]

Tom,Thank you, thank you, thank you for including the speeds, feeds and detail of the cutters. This is welcome information for us beginner machinists. What was the beginning dimensions for the starting blocks? Having to add material for holding the part during the different operations is one of those things I never gave any thought to when working as a design engineer. I focused on the final design and only made sure it was doable and not super expensive to make. One reason I got started in machining was to better understand the processes required to make what I designed. Thanks again for taking the time to do your videos.Dan

[@ZTFab1]

Some folks call it a sling blade...I call it a kaiser blade. LOL. Great work Tom.

[@aaronmeredith5453]

Loving this series!

[@JunkMikesWorld]

I had been anxiously awaiting this part of the build. That thing is going to be so nice it will be a shame to give it away. Mike

[@johnleake708]

Very tedious work, making all those cuts to simulate a casting. thanks Tom for taking the time and effort to make a video so us arm chair machinists can watch and learn. Maybe we need Keith Rucker to cast one and compare the two, although a casting would require machining before it was usable.

[@paulanderson5492]

oh man i get so excited when i see another wilton baby bullet vid!

[@lyntonr6188]

Good work tom, I like the new video editing style, very slick!

[@aserta]

22:27 i'll never get over how cool these cuts are. I learnt a bit from this video which is always nice and the parts came out really well, which they always do here :) I'm really pumped up to see the final piece because it's going to look really awesome. :D

[@shawnmrfixitlee6478]

thumbs Tom , Great mill work man ! 3D prints really help with the layout ..

[@SlowEarl1]

Thanks for another great video I always pick up a new trick.

[@paulrjones3]

Thank you for a very instructive video. Nice work!

[@tombellus8986]

Wonderful -----what a nice job

[@muhaahaloa941]

Gj looking good i enjoy following this project just like the rest of them :)

[@bulletproofpepper2]

Awesome , you make look so easy. Thanks for sharing

[@oxtoolco]

+sam yeates Hey Sam, It takes a lot of screwups to make it look like this. Trust me on that one. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@vitortosetto97]

ohhh Tom, it's so beaultiful, it's so perfect... realy i'm speechless, congratulations =)

[@jerrylong381]

Hey Tom, I've been looking forward to this part of the project. Multiple radii, in different planes. I'm sure old Will Miller can handle it though. Thanks

[@WAVETUBE84]

Mr. Wizard says, "The more challenging parts of the build." I bet there is a some extract behind your choice in the Acra mill and probably a list of your previous "dancing partners". I was thinking, that their may be some distortion/movement during the weld/attachment of the vice jawbones to the slide/barrel: that might cause some misalignment issue of the jaw/pads? Maybe you have something hidden up Mr Wizard's sleeves??? Interesting stuff, Tom.

[@one4stevo]

Beautifully done :)

[@robertkutz]

tom nice tool work great video .

[@SuperSecretSquirell]

15:30 So is that "Bill the mill"? Lol Good work Tom.

[@KnolltopFarms]

Nice work Tom, thanks for the explanation of the steps and also adjusting of the boring head touch-off. I am a bit confused as to how you did the math to achieve each radius, but that's not uncommon as I dropped out of school to go surfing the year I was supposed to take Trig. Is that what I should study in order to learn these things? I know that there is more to it than just dividing the diameter of the tube by 2, and I am not looking to be spoon-fed so a nudge in the right direction(from anyone who may read this) would be greatly appreciated...Aloha, Chuck

[@BasementShopGuy]

Your power down-feed clutch needs adjustment. Probably set too sensitive? This is really coming along nice Tom. Not only is this a skillful "machining" project, but it's the most artistic I've seen yet. Excellent!

[@darryldodge8383]

+BasementShopGuy - that area on my Bridgeport tends to be oily and collect dust and gunk, leading to unwanted trip outs. Partial strip down and cleaning, then readjust and all should be fine once again.

[@w056007568]

That big mill can sure munch some metal!

[@swarfrat311]

Hey Tom, Nice video! Are you in the habit of naming your machines? At 15:30, there is a shot of your mill with a label on it. The label says "Bill". So is it Bill the mill? ... At any rate, your baby bullet is coming together nicely. Thanks for the video and the lessons learned about setting boring bars and different types of tooling. Have a good one. Dave

[@winstonzeb2842]

beautiful work! :)

[@bcbloc02]

See I would have done it just the opposite and held onto it by the jaw part by bolting a block into where the jaws will actually go but that is probably because I am used to not having any extra to work with. LOL

[@bobferranti5222]

Everything is turning out fantastic Tom. I was wondering..... have you tried a polarizing filter lense on your camera? It would give you better light reduction for the video and should stop the white out effect.

[@DiodePress]

Great progress Tom! Also, I really enjoyed the multiple camera shots during the operations. Definitely understand the added effort/editing, but it's a nice touch! Any plans for more etching press build videos once this series is done?

[@bigun447]

Maybe you should make that mill into a racing one. In NASCAR a standard device in a car is a bungee cord so the driver can attach it if needed during a race to help keep the transmission from popping out of gear. TEE HEE. Coming out of turn 4 is the Lipton mill doing a little fender rubbing with the Booth mill in the race to the finish line.

[@TheMainlinehobo]

Hi Tom, Great video and series! What was your feed rate and tool speed when you used the boring bar to cut the radius after relieving with the corn cob cutter?

[@acesarmiento3654]

How come your machine is so quiet. Thanks for sharing.

[@mertsilliker1682]

very interesting tom

[@mrbluenun]

Hello and thank you for your uploads. Respect to you foe even attempting this let alone getting things so damned close as you are getting it to look like a completely moulded piece,> and I have to say a HUGE bow in admiration to the original design and another bow to the maker/s of this, with no helping hand like the electronics they had to have had their machines set up brilliantly to start with and each move through the manufacture was so precise, especially in the moulding dept. Take care and I can’t wait to see this full complete made by you, I hope you will put your name on your version? mrbluenun

[@oxtoolco]

+mrbluenun Hi Blue, Thanks for the nice comment. You can bet there will some kind of identifier on this little baby. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@marceltimmers1290]

Hi mate. I was looking forward to this one, this and how you are going to weld them on. I have seen that JB weld is very popular in the US. But it will be interesting to see how you are going to eliminate the chance of water ingress between the jaw and the main body. I have been informed that 1 mm of steel gives 1 cm of rust, so if not fully sealed, stand back. But I'm sure you got something to prevent something like that. Thanks, I look forward to every instalment.

[@jusb1066]

+Marcel Timmers hehe, he wont use JB weld! thats just a brand name epoxy! yes welding on such thick items will be interesting

[@marceltimmers1290]

I'm amazed at what scale that stuff is being used. Sometimes I see a very nice project, and than some person pules out the the JB. That stuff might be good but in my eyes the repair by than has been botched.

[@jusb1066]

+Marcel Timmers indeed! glue is no subsitute for good welding, or even brazing would work on this vice, large contact area!

[@sp1nrx]

+jusb1066 Unless you're dealing with a low-stress broken casting in some inaccessible place that cannot be welded/brazed and scrapping a machine is not acceptable. JB weld saved me $6000 and the break stayed mended for over 15 years (when the machine *did* get scrapped). Otherwise, proper welds are preferred always.

[@jusb1066]

sp1nrx oh i agree, ive used devcon ( a metal particle epoxy) to repair a rock-cracked truck sump which kept the truck in action (back to work within a tea break) and didnt leak for weeks) im sure we all keep some plumbers metal epoxy around as its always useful,the trick to anything is using it right, not using it to glue your car wheel back on! lol, but as is often the case, something broke through stress, and a epoxy repair will take far less stress, so its not often its gonna be appropriate. On the vice you could cheat and mount it with threads and use epoxy as filler! :}

[@BasementShopGuy]

One question on the cutter - was it carbide or HSS?

[@mikeadrover5173]

Thanks Tom Just another great Vid! Like ~M~

[@AF6LJSue]

Nicely done, the geometry can get a bit confusing to those of us playing along at home. :)

[@ke6bnl]

question when you are tapping do you have a vfd to reverse the tap or are you just reversing from the three phase reversing drum switch and are you waiting for it to come to a stop before reversing.Just not sure what is putting undo stress on the mill

[@MrShobar]

Tom, what alloy was used here?

[@AmateurRedneckWorkshop]

Very nice work. Very nice mill also. Is the mill named Bill the Mill or something? I can't help but ask as I saw a tag on it that said Bill. Thanks for sharing.

[@RichardHeadGaming]

+cerberus lol my thought was remember to make a bill.

[@billdlv]

+cerberus I was wondering the same thing looks like a p - touch label...

[@paulanderson5492]

on the drawing titled "moving jaw tube" at the upper left you have .99 then top middle its marked .125 can you please clarify this?

[@TheMetalButcher]

Tom, Where did you get that mill "apron" between the knee and column? I'd love to have one.

[@1pcfred]

+justfakeit888 I don't know where Tom got his but over here a piece of tire inner tube works for me.

[@supahonkey]

I've had it pounded into me by coworkers to advance the knee for feeding any kind of mill into material. They always tell me the quill is the most stable and strong when it is completely retracted. They claim the quill is designed to be used for drilling and all milking should be advanced via the knee. What are your thoughts on this Tom? I notice you always use the quill.

[@oxtoolco]

+supahonkey Hi Supra, As you can see the quill is quite useful. You should not be afraid to use it. For some certain operations raising the knee is better. Not using the quill is like trying to do the work with one hand tied behind your back. It was designed to be used. If something happens you don't like you can always raise the knee. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@chucktipton9596]

Who's Bill?

[@Zerostar369]

When Wilton makes these, are they also welded together?

[@12345NoNamesLeft]

+Zerostar369 Castings

[@Zerostar369]

So they are cast then machined. I wonder what is stronger. Cast and machined or forged pieces machined then welded together?

[@braddles345]

+Zerostar369 From my little metallurgical knowledge, it would all depend on the quality of the steel in both cases, and the quality of the welds . So a really good casting can be much better than badly made forged steel that has shoddy welds, and the opposite can be the same, bad quality casting can be fragile/brittle compared to good quality forged steel that had good welds. Although, in my personal opinion, I would prefer a vise like the one Tom is making, so good forged steel that is machined and welded. From a bit of experience it can be much stronger with same quality steel, and (if by some freak accident) it were to break along a weld or something, I can repair it fairly easily with a normal welder, not so for a cast piece. Brad

[@krazziee2000]

very nice ....

[@riceburner32]

what camera and sound system are you using?

[@oxtoolco]

+riceburner32 Hi Rice, I use a Canon G15 with the internal mic of the camera. My setup is super simple like its operator. Thanks for the comment, Cheers, Tom

[@riceburner32]

+oxtoolco thanks, great series by the way!

[@jasoncarpenter3705]

Love the videos,but it's bad habit to clamp part off center of vise without a spacer of equal size on the opposite side.

[@oxtoolco]

+Jason Carpenter Hi Jason, I'm going to take a wild guess and say you don't have a Kurt angle lock vise. As you saw it did actually work and nothing bad happened. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@1OlBull]

Is 'Bill' upset that you have his mill?

[@jabelsjabels]

Wait, Sony makes DROs?!

[@CreaseysWorkshop]

Lol, is your mill called Bill?

[@oxtoolco]

+John Creasey Previous owner put the sticker on it. I thought it was funny so I left it. Apparently some other folks agree. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@jameslamb4573]

"Bill The Mill"?

[@elluisito000]

hola :D

[@KPearce57]

Good work, don't let Bozo show up now.