ArduPlane/AR Wing/Matek F405-Wing Build: Installing it all into the AR Wing

Link to the other videos in the series: • ArduPlane, Matek F405-...
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bit.ly/RunCamEa...
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[@Painless360]

For those wondering if the antenna placement may be an issue.. maximum separation is always a good idea. Power levels and the shape of the transmitted power along with the separation of the frequencies used all play a part in how much seperation is needed. Using legal power levels (and even a little above) with seperations like the one in this build should be absolutely fine. Models using less separation like the recent 600mm wing build with Ardupilot and models with more motors work very well too (see compact iNav quad builds - See my iNav building tips video where I cover it all). If you intend to use higher powers than those legal in the UK then you could position things differently.. ;)

[@MCsCreations]

Beautiful work, Lee! 😃 Looking forward to the flight video!!!

[@NATGEOANDSTUFFPaulbrannan]

these wings are prety amazing.great work as allways buddy.

[@tabdougherty8549]

This was my first inav build. And first plane. Yours is much much cleaner! Mine is barely recognizable as an AR wing anymore, It has landed nose first more times than I care to admit. I am now working solely with Ardupilot and not looking back. I am not saying Inav had anything to do with My landings, That was skill LOL! I just love the way Arduplane works, It feels like there is no end to the possibilities with the system from fun to work. It certainly is intimidating at the begging. Great info as always Thank you!

[@N3tech]

Did you have any issues with ArduPilot identifying the buzzer? I purchased the Matek Buzzer but still can’t seem to get it to work with ArduPilot.

[@Fpvfreaky]

Can’t wait for your maiden, looks really neat. nice job 👍🏽😁

[@fayazmd83]

Great build mate 😊 Congrats for setting up successfully. I built same AR wing supplied 19v through 5S1p Li-ion (AUW ~670g , 5S1P battery weighs ~270g) still does not fly😂 drive.google.com/file/d/1GTzZI7OjX9jRyYtUC8GQngcA4Nxj4LXn/view?usp=drivesdk Build: 1. Sonicmodell AR Wing 900 PNP version 2. Motor -Emax RS 2205 2600kv 3. ESC - 30 Amp with 5V/3A BEC original one that come with the model 4. Receiver: Flysky 2.4G FS-iA6B 6 Channel 5. Batteries; I am using Lithium-ion 4S1P (4 batteries connected in series), delivering voltage around 12-13 volts. Tried with 3S packs as well to reduce weight but still did not fly. Weight of batteries along with the holder is around 130g (each battery 30g + case holder 10g). As an alternative, I tried to change batteries to Varicore 18650B green ones (see pic attached), no luck! 6. Props: 5030 Tri-blade

[@Painless360]

If you watch the series you'll see I scrapped the 3 bladed prop... it needed a lot more power...

[@itzikronen105]

This series is great (like all your series), thank you. If I may? I have some remarks: From my experience, I can say that the best will be keeping the receiver and video transmitter away from each other and both from the motor. I know that both components work at different frequencies. There is the concept of "noise floor level". When there are many high-intensity transmissions, the receiver "works" much harder in filtering the noises. Although it equipped with physical filters (capacitors, etc.), they cannot filter all noise out. And the SW filter has to work hard. If you have the possibility of checking the data traffic stability, you would see that many "packages" of communication are wrong. The situation will degrade as the range between you and the plane increases. The magnitude of the transmission arriving on the plane is weakening and is much lower than the "noise floor level”. On top of it, when the motor is working, it generates magnetic and electrical fields around it with a very wide frequency spectrum (IMI & RFI). These fields are created noise that peeks up by the Rx antenna and by the video transmitter and Rx wires. So, it is important to keep them away from the motor. The ESC also generates a lot of "noise" due to high power switching. High-current PWM produces many electric fields at different frequencies. About GPS best location: Checking with compass is excellent idea. But you must do it when the whole system is powerup! You must make sure that the servos powerup, and the motor working at 50%. Only in this state can you really understand what the "GPS" feels like. If there is no choice and the GPS need to be installed over "hot" wires, it is possible to paste between the GPS and the aircraft, aluminum foil (60-80 mm diameter circle). In my experience, the aluminum foil will isolate the noise coming from the bottom underneath and acts as a reflector on the upper side that helps GPS and improves its stability.

[@Painless360]

Separation is always a good idea. Power levels and the shape of the transmitted power along with the separation of the frequencies used all play a part. Using legal power levels (and even a little above) seperations like the one in this series is absolutely fine. Models using less separation and more motors (quads) work very well too. See my iNav building tips video where I cover it all..

[@opposedforces]

Man I enjoy your videos... I am anxiously awaiting your maiden flight on this build. It's been a couple weeks now, is there any eta on the flight vid? Thank you so much for doing what you do.!!!

[@Painless360]

This series will run through August so stay tuned! :)

[@Barakrante]

Hi Lee, I am building AR wing pro with MatekH743, I use the 40A ESC given with the kit, following the wiring diagram of the FC, I did cut the power cable with XT60 of the ESC, I solder the bit with the battery connector to the BATT pad of the FC, then I solder the ESC to the FC following the diagram. Now when I power the system, the ESC bip twice a second like it is not happy and I cannot go into ESC programming mode. I probably do something wrong, can you help me please. Regards

[@Painless360]

Very tricky to help without further information. All of the steps I use are in the video.. Best of luck

[@snowballfpv7583]

Loving the idea of the small piece of metal for the vtx. Think I might use that on my mini ar wing

[@christopherbigelow1323]

Seems like extra props are sold out. What alternative props can I use. Speed is not important I like cruising

[@Painless360]

You should be able to use anything that is the same diameter and pitch as the original.. Best of luck!

[@jcfpv3454]

Lee your a wonderful person

[@JorgeJimenez2020]

I'm following along, and I'm struggling with getting FRSky telemetry to work with this board. I'm building the hardware converter like the one you used on the Omnibus build. I was looking for a way to get telemetry to work without the external module given that this board has an inverter for R2, and the RXSR that I have has tiny pads for SBUS and Smart Port uninverted, bit can't get that to work. My other, minor issue is that I tried the VFly finder 2 and could not get the trilling working. Even ordered the Matek Buzzer and it also does not trill. I do get long beep on arm and short beep on disarm, but not the nice trilling. Did you have to do anything to get it to work? I didn't actually hear trilling I'm this series or missed it. Any help on these two issues I'm having is appreciated. Thanks! Great series! I'll post my first flights.

[@domanater480]

Where did you plug the esc to the fc with an xt60 looks so clean! Can’t even see it

[@paddyboy3791]

Hello Lee great series on the F405 arduplane build, I've used it to build a conventional 4 channel plane , was confused with the radio input/ servo output for a while. Radio TAER configuration. set servos to 1 Throttle, 2 Disabled, 3 Elevator , 4 rudder , 5 Aileron working correctly.. I think you covered this in other series can you put a link if you have. Thanks again

[@Painless360]

Id always recommend taking some time to look at the latest Ardupilot documentation when looking at a build. It's impossible to cover every step in detail in a series like this. Happy flying!

[@dronereviewman9580]

Great work!!! Looks so cool!!! 👍😀👍

[@jackprokopec5075]

Which video is the first step

[@Painless360]

You checked the description? List to the full series with the video in order in there..

[@rsilvers129]

I am ready to build one. Any updates to your recommended parts list?

[@Painless360]

Nope. Still flying this one as built. Best of luck with yours.. .

[@domanater480]

Hi painless, I’m just trying to work out inav as I just got a f405. One thing I’m confused about is how do I control rates and expo? I normally do it on my tx as I did with a wing without a FC but with a FC is it all done through inav? and the tx doesn’t change? Also if through inav where about’s is it? Thanks a lot :)

[@Painless360]

All in the tuning tab... but you can also add expo on the controller.. Happy flying

[@domanater480]

@@Painless360 it can also be changed in the mixer and ouputs tab do they all do the same thing if i set them all to 50%

[@brkfpv60]

why did you mount fc vertically , esc noise ?

[@Painless360]

It isn't vertical... At what point in the video are you referring to?

[@brkfpv60]

@@Painless360 with the arrow pointing forward, you could turn the card sideways, is there a reason to mount it this way, I'm having some problems, so I asked . Thank you for reply

[@Painless360]

I always try and mount the FC with the arrow pointing to the nose. You can alter the alignment but I find it's easier to mount it right in the first place.. Happy flying

[@brkfpv60]

Sometimes I have problems like this, the video is from today's flight kzbin.info/www/bejne/b3arf3SugNWKrJI

[@Painless360]

That looks like flutter or p gain too high on pitch... Best of luck

[@TheWhiskeytangofox]

I have the buzzer connected like you and it works. I can't seem to find a way in mission planner to put the buzzer on a switch so that I can find it easier after I land. Any tips? Great content!

[@Painless360]

I'm not aware of a way.. If you find one, please let me know..

[@cfusername]

There is an option to sound the buzzer by pressing or switching a transmitter button, at least in ArduCopter 4.x. It’s somewhere in the drop-down menu for the aux channels. Sorry, can’t remember the options name...

[@neoxs2917]

Hello, do you know if i can use a 3S 3000 mAh battery on your build ? or do i have to change parts ? greetings from Germany

[@Painless360]

That would be fine (if it fits)..

[@xeriamaned]

Hi Lee, would you say ArduPlane is easier/better/more stable than Inav?

[@xeriamaned]

@@Freebird_67 No idea who you are, I was asking Lee from Painless360

[@Painless360]

Hi Phil, I've got to agree with Wingshigh here. I am a big fan of the iNav team but Ardupilot was flying fixed wing smoothly and reliably before iNav was even a project. See my video on flight controller comparison for my full thoughts.. happy flying!

[@xeriamaned]

@@Painless360 It's Phil and I missunderstood Wingshigh reply, Ahh makes sense now thank you both.

[@termitehards]

Masha Allah, thank you brother, will you be trying the other Matek Wing FCs?

[@Painless360]

I may try another build in time but there is only a limited number of non Pixhawk hardware to choose from..

[@Indonesia01ian]

Hello I am sorry I am not too good in English I miss some step So I want to reconfirm Do we plug the motor and servo directly to the F405 board not in the Receiver? This is my first time making Arduplane. Nornally I plug the servo and motor in the receiver Thank you so much Thank you

[@Painless360]

Everything plugs into the flight controller. Best of luck

[@Indonesia01ian]

@@Painless360 Hi sorry one more Question Hi I saw the Speedybee F405 V3 (Stacked) in KZbin. He said it has built in ESC Can I use that part for RC Plane? It seems the part is commonly used for Drone

[@Painless360]

I'd use a Wing style flight controller for fixed wing unless you know what you are doing... see my builds. Best of luck