Panasonic Plasma 10 and 2 Blinks TEA1611 ETX2MM702 704 706 Power Supply TH 42 46 50 58 PZ 800 85

[@DiCamina]

My Panasonic TH-50PZ85U gave me the 10 blink code about a week ago. I followed your step by step instructions and everything went smoothly. My TV is back up and working again! . A few TV repair techs quoted me $250-$500. I ended up spending a total of $14. Thank you for creating this great video!

[@matthewnordstrom]

Just wanted to say thanks for the great video!! My TH-50PZ800U came down with the identical symptoms, and I was able to perform the repair here and fix it. For anyone else attempting, just wanted to HIGHLY recommend that you buy the capacitors norcal715 uses in the video, with the circular padded leads, as opposed to the wire axial leads. I used the latter and soldering them to the chips was the most difficult part of the process by far but thankfully i was able to get it to work.

[@rikkiboy7]

Wow! Thank God for you man! I did not test or remove any boards. I did as you said and put a resistor accross those 2 wires to be sure there was No High Voltage present. All I had to do was locate those 2 tiny capacitors and unsolder them and replaced them with 2 little 50V 1uF caps (Noteing that Neg leg was to the top.) and Bingo! The set works perfectly again! I can't thank you enough! You can stop in for a cold beer any time my friend! Thanks again! Jamey

[@STIZEN9]

RIKKIBOY your invitation to norcal for a cold one was freggn awesome. He does bless many with his repair videos.

[@MiguelMiducuast]

Hi norcal715. I am Miducuast. Since I don't have a workshop like you, I did follow your instructions and sucessfully repair or fixed my Panasonic TH-50PZ80U. I did your diagnostic and after that I replace the damaged parts like you do in the video and now it's perfectly working. Thanks a lot!!!! I was able to fix it in my own. Again without a workshop like your do. I hope you can read my message!!!

[@chrisnishimura5964]

Thank you! Your repair diagnosis and fix for the 10 blinks on a Panasonic TH-46PZ80UA was very helpful. Great Job!

[@aliaatreides99]

I changed the two capacitors only and my tv is repared! Thank you so much for virtually reparing my otherwise perfectly fine HD TV and saving me hundreds of dollars because I don't have to buy a new one.

[@donaldmclean9737]

we are a throw away world.norcal you saved my tv.and i thank you for that.i did this fix 2 years ago.and it's still going strong.please post more fellow

[@neowolfe]

Thanks for the video! TV Repairman quoted me $500 to fix my TV, instead I bought a soldering Iron for 15 bucks, replaced the IC's and fixed it all for less than $50 bucks. And i learned a new skill, never solder'd before in my life

[@MrCarlsonsLab]

If you would like to test your small hybrid board (on the bench, not in the main board) with the TEA1611 chip on it, First: **"If you do this, you do so at your own risk."** Remove the small vertical hybrid board from the main board. Locate pin 14 of the small hybrid board using the legend on the main board. Count back to pin 12, this is + or positive. Pin 9 is - or negative. The small hybrid board will need 12 Volts from a current limited supply for the test. Connect your oscilloscope common to the negative, and the probe tip to Pin 7, this pin (7) will have a 45kHz square wave on it. If this signal is present, your hybrid is working.

[@abeleski]

Mr Carlson..your a legend

[@SB9P4]

Well,l have a Panasonic tv model 42px7dc-ua, with 14 blinking.what you think?thx.u

[@walterb7710]

I have the same TV, and although it still works great, I'm wouldn't be surprised that it will quit soon because of the same problem. I have worked on TVs for over 30 years, but have always had trouble soldering very small surface mounts such as in the video, without damaging the ckt board. I'm in my 60s, and my eyesight just isn't good enough to do such small soldering. I must say the person in the video has a very steady hand and good soldering skills for surface mount components. Thanks

[@kaikienke]

These IC's were incredibly difficult to un-solder without ripping off the contacts from the board... It all looked so easy on your 100x magnified video, but somehow I succeded! Thanks for saving my TV :)

[@shawngregoire1673]

Great video. This guy makes it look easy, he should have been a surgeon. It wasn't easy but I diagnosed the problem and replaced the two chips and capacitors and my TV works. This is what makes the internet great.

[@Miducuast]

I use the video myself to fix my own Panasonic TV. I guess the audience he is focusing on is the ones that have some electronic tech knoledge.

[@rickhilton9108]

My TH-C46fD18 had 10 blink code . I Did the cold test and it passed . I just replaced the small de -coupler Cap as mentioned in the comments below by Gary Spencser. I went to Fry's and bought the 1 uf 50v Non polarized Electrolytic Capacitors 79 cents each they are bigger and easier to hold and after 3 days so far so good. I left the IC board on the main board. I might add that you need a steady hand, good light, good magnifier glass and a pencil point soldiering iron. It is by far NOT as easy as Nocal715 makes it look he is a real pro. Thanks for the great video

[@Artwongoz]

Thanks for posting this video, it has saved me from having to throw my Panasonic Plasma away! It started doing the 10 blinks after 3 clicks. I contacted Panasonic Australia and they told me that the 704 board is no longer produced. I tested the problem using the freeze spray and confirmed which IC was the problem. I ended up buying the IC from EBAY and the first one they sent me was faulty but the second one worked fine. A bit fiddly to take the 704 board off the TV and desolder/solder the IC but it's better than having to buy a new TV.

[@spudbudy]

Well after much research and watching/ reading what I could find about the dreaded 10 blinks. I ruled out other items. And after reading something in the comments here got me thinking. I decided to take the path of least resistance here I think. I did not try the freeze test although this was on my list to try if this didn't work. However what I did ultimately was to simply remove the extremely tiny caps next to the IC's. On both MC201 and MC301. PRESTO working TV. Just that simply. I have ordered replacement caps and will attempt to solder new ones in place. Thank you to each and everyone who made comments and contributed this this topic. The INTERNET is a wild and wonderful place if you know where to look. Keep up the great work.

[@TheWinterfan]

I just finished this repair for a coworker's TV. It was a fun project. Thanks for the video! I ended up masking off the pins on the little boards with kapton tape and hitting them with the heat gun from my rework station to remove them. In fact, I did the same thing to remove the ICs as well.

[@micrometer1484]

panasonic plasma TH42PZ80U. I replaced only the 2 capacitors with two 1uf/50 volts poly film caps (not the IC's as shown in the video). I had the 10 then 2 blink error codes. This worked perfectly. Thanks so much for this video on how to do it.

[@brucebruceh2000]

I have worked on a LOT of electronic componets and devices but Never have I had such a challenging experience. I was able to succesfully repair my 50" Plazma with this videos help. Thank you sooo much. By the way, YOU ARE THE MAN! you make this look so easy and it is anything but. :-)

[@zoranzlatkovic612]

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[@UKGSXDSM101]

Thanks you very much. Carried out repairs and now have happy wife again and I got my man cave flat panel back :) Cheers

[@chuck2271]

I got both ic's for 16.00 for the pair. May as well change them. Thank you for all the detailed information in your video. It has been more helpful then the service manual I have.

[@ac4tv]

Thanks for posting this - I also have a dead TH-PZ85U with the 2 blink code. I just ordered these parts and am crossing my fingers that this is the fix.

[@jeffstapleton8318]

I have a Panasonic TH-46PZ8OU that was powering up intermittenly. Eventually it went out and I would get the two blinks after i hit the power button with no screen. I changed out the TEA1611T and the capacitor on both the MC201/301 boards and it works like a champ! I ordered the parts off of ebay and it cost me $11.00. Thanks for the help.

[@dougnavarro3258]

I did try to freeze the TEA1611T on both chips, after pushing power button, I get one click sound , then 2 blinks starts. Your video is awesome by the way, seems to be helping tons of people to fix this problematic panasonic!

[@Fire69]

I was about to throw it out but I just found out what is wrong with my old 42PZ81 thanks to this video!!! Thank you!! Can't repair it myself but now I can find someone who'll do it for cheap :-D

[@Fire69]

@norcal715 After googling some more I found this blog and tried his solution, which seems to work fine. What do you think? Is it safe/will it keep working? blog.bronislavrobenek.com/post/47303789528/panasonic-plasma-red-blinks-of-death-repair

[@claudewaledisch6345]

Masessum1, if I could send you a beer, I would. You saved me a lot of time with the tip on removing just the cap.. So far so good. THANKS Man!

[@johnbortscheller1111]

Another successful solder surgery! Thanks for sharing this detailed diagnosis and repair!

[@billiestewart507]

Hi I watched your video and thought it was awesome.. I did exactly what you said with the can of air and it worked.. i purchased the chip and capacitor and changed it on both and now when i got everything back in its place its still giving me the 10 lights.. but this time its not doing the fast clicks .. its doing the 2 clicks and then the 3rd and then lights ..can you please help me cause i am lost now.. not sure where i went wrong.. i did everything the video said too..

[@whiteknives]

Thanks for posting! I was sweating I'd have to replace the whole power supply. I didn't even need to swap the IC (which would have been a pain to track down a seller for). I swapped out the tiny cap for a 1uF 50v electrolytic from Radio Shack for a whopping $1 and I'm back in business!

[@DIYApprentice]

To add: I just bought an identical Panasonic with the 10-blink code, and replacing the same cap resolved the issue. I didn't change the IC.

[@DIYApprentice]

I had this issue a couple years ago, and I'd drilled down to the MC module (took me about a month off and on to troubleshoot it). I replaced the ceramic cap with an identical cap, and the TV's been running fine since then.

[@underamnesia]

Thanks for the wonderful video and explanation. here is my 2 cents and experience. I stay in an apartment and have no garage to repair the tv. If can do it so can any of you, this was my first soldering experience and i was very doubtful and fidgety, but the video was of great help and the tv is now working, i just replaced the caps. also since no garage i did with the whole tv set on my mattress and did not remove any boards from anywhere, in place. it was kind of hard definitely recommend a magnifying glass. replaced with a 1uf 50v from frys, and did not replace the ic. things in the video look bigger than they actually are in real life. i did not expect such a small cap, my repcaement cap was much bigger ;)... removing it was kinda hard but the putting in the new cap was even harder. but definitely it can be done.

[@markuswloka1324]

I followed the instructions in this video and successfully repaired a Panasonic TH-46PZ85EA Plasma TV. I called Panasonic Plasma Profi Service, Germany, BEFORE doing the repair, to order a new power supply. This was my worst customer service experience in many years. The rude support person stated that the "instructions on the internet" were all wrong, there were many reasons for the Plasma TV to fail, and that I had done irreparable damage with the cooling spray diagnosis. Obviously, not true

[@amdnovello]

I have the 46pz80 since 2009 and i hope it never breaks lol. Thanks for the video!

[@norcal715]

There are many suppliers that carry both parts however most require a state business license to purchase from. Ebay is most likely the best place to find the parts. Look for TEA1611T and 1uf 50v aluminum smd.

[@nathantw]

Thank you again for making this video and putting in the needed parts. I just followed your instructions and it worked like a charm.

[@norcal715]

not usually, you may have failure on the A board. You could try to cool the IC's and see if that makes a difference because when you press the power button the set must start the 15 volt supply each time.

[@DIYApprentice]

I replaced the same cap mentioned in this video with another ceramic cap (not sure if that was a good idea, but it's held up for 2 years). I thought I'd read that the 2 blinks appearing after the 10 blinks is cleared points to a problem with the MC201 module, but I can't remember for sure.

[@bzzztwrong]

great repair video...but what was the original problem? Is it that it didn't get cool enough before the power off anf then power on? Is there some fan enhancement to keep fan on longer after power off to cool it more? Does the capacitor change fix this long term?

[@norcal715]

No problem they should work just fine. The originals are ceramic non polar, I just used electrolytics because I had them in stock when this video was made.

[@garyspencer1711]

If not for this excellent, detailed, debugging session, I would not have discovered the fault in my Panasonic TH-46PZ85U main power supply board. After downloading the full (free) service manual for this chassis, I was motivated to spend time to finally fix this rig. As recommend, I inverted my can of air and sprayed the MC301 ckt board, then plugged unit into AC power, waited for both relays to latch in, pressed power button, and the unit fully powered up ! ! ! Now, .....for what it's worth, I was unwilling to believe that the NXP FET driver IC was uniquely responsible for this failure mode. Therefore, I removed the Vdd decoupling capacitor and tested the TV for several days. The TV runs perfectly. I plan on installing a 0.22uF capacitor at this location to provide analog supply decoupling. I do not believe that the ORIGINAL capacitor was 1.0uF ! The capacitor package is not large enough to be a 1.0uF electrolytic. Anyhow, we shall see how long my experiment runs without failure(s). Much thanks to the MASTER technician who produced this powerful video session. Thanks !! G.Spencer Rutland

[@garyspencer1711]

Just a quick update on the progress of my Panasonic plasma repair. It's been over 4 months since I removed the decoupling capacitor on MC301 board .....and the power MOSFET driver IC is still functioning without it. The TV has been working great with no problems. Last night (3-12-14) I replaced the bad capacitor with a new aluminum electrolytic with the lead length cut to about 3/16 inch . I purchased 2 of these capacitors from DigiKey for $0.60 each. These are high quality 1uF, 50V non-polarized, electrolytic capacitors ( p/n 493-10252-1-ND ). NOTE: I did not have to remove the MC301 board from the Main Power board to perform this soldering operation. This saved me lots of time and aggravation. DigiKey also stocks the MOSFET Driver/Controller IC (TEA1611T) made by NXP. Hope this helps. G.Spencer

[@cozzm0AU]

Another 50PZ800A saved from the bin ! Thanks a heap !!!

[@powas13]

The cap is a bypass capacitor. I assume the failure mode is toward open and that extra leakage is tanking a supply and causing the error codes. Removing it will fix the problem, but may create others down the road since the IC won't have a nice, stable supply voltage. As shown in the video, the IC is a TEA1611T.

[@jim555n]

Hi...great video!! I just did my first one of these and I'd like to pass on a tip...the mdppnb102 module has fewer parts on the backside of the board than the mdppnb331. This particular one was also stamped "331" on the backside but it washed off as soon as I cleaned the board. I suspect that the capacitor is actually the problem since the TEA1611T won't start up at room temperature. I put a known good chip on a "102" and it wouldn't work until I replaced the cap; the old chip works in a 331.

[@MrSukizg]

This man is great repair technician ,i see you have great experiance in repairing . thank you for sharing you knowledge, pls upload more videos we are following you, regards!

[@norcal715]

Check and see if you have Vsus on the SC or SS boards, they both have test points on the top by the big 2 wire connector, you should have approx 190-195 volts there.

[@joeleblond8578]

norcal715. Thank you, Thank you, Thank you! I had three of these modules on backorder with panasonic with no ETA. I came across your 'brilliant video' on You tube, I ordered enough IC's to repair 5 modules and already had the SMD electrolytics in stock. Repairs X 3 most successful. Thanks again for your precise explaination and repair path for the 10 blink trouble on these TV's !!!

[@norcal715]

I have tried "just the capacitor" in the past and found a high repeat rate. Since I did the video I only do both the IC and Cap together and after doing 20+ I am still at 100% success rate.

[@norcal715]

Yep it should, I use the electrolytic just because I have a drawer of them and they are very reliable. You could also use a standard leaded aluminium electrolytic and you can use a voltage as low as 16 volts because it only has 12 volts on it.

[@videos40058]

wow very interesting... but may i ask what if the tv is sometimes working and some times not ... it does the same thing. And i asumed it must be a bad cap problem ... can you give me a idea? it is the same model.

[@jmcgoron]

Dude, you're stupid good at surface mount soldering. You make it look so easy AND you have a camera blocking most of what you are working on. Would you be able to post some soldering tutorials for us or maybe just some things we can practice to get better? Keep up the good work.

[@norcal715]

10 blinks after pressing the power button means the run 15 volt supply problem or 15 volt sense not working, could still be the ps board or even the A board, or wrong diagnosis on the D board. I will try to get a troubleshooting flowchart for you when I have time

[@norcal715]

the discharge resistor is simply a high wattage(5 to 10 watts) 1500 ohm that i had available. You could use a higher ohm resistor 5000, 10000, 20000( 5K 10K 20K) but it would take longer to discharge the capacitors.

[@AMTRVB]

Your buddy John in Rhode Island informed me that replacing the chips are unnecessary. He said that removing the 1 uf cap is the problem and some techs actually remove the cap and do not replace it. Your comments please.....

[@flynnimber]

Hi. Great vid and very useful. I have a TH 42 plasma that has the dreaded 10 blinks. I have tried the freeze spray on all the MC circuit boards but still get three clicks on power up. Can the IC's fail to such an extent that the freeze spray won't work? Thanks. Andy

[@howdydoodie994]

Norcal, this video is great. I was able to "jump start" my tv by cooling down the ic chip. I have a question though, I did replace the one ic chip and capacity that I sprayed. This did not fix my problem and I can no longer "jump start" the tv anymore. Do u think I should change the other ic chip?

[@xavtolltolet3175]

Thank you, My tv is repaired because of you.

[@audioguy2012]

@norcal715 i want to say it was before i pushed the power button. i plugged it in heard the 2 clicks and the light was flashing. thanks for the fast resppnse, and do ypi think just getting a new power supply may be the easiest thing to do? thanks again

[@STIZEN9]

At 2:37 how long will the tv operate after it is started using the refrigerant to i.c. method? Also, would it be beneficial to the mc201 and mc301 if I siliconed a small heat sink on top of the i.c.'s, to keep them cooler? Does the 15 volts continuously run through this circuit or is it only to start the t.v. up? Yes Im very very new to electrical diagnostics but I realize that this guys job and expertise IS ON THE LEVEL OF A SURGEON.

[@paulsullivan2988]

One of the best repair videos ever. Great audio and video plus a step by step guide. Thank you

[@norcal715]

I have had them that tested leaky while in circuit. Then while the cap was heated the leakage current would change. I heated it up with a 1mm hot air blower tip.

[@norcal715]

Any can of compressed air should work. Just make sure you have 10 blinks before pressing the power button. You can cool the drive IC and if the set starts it will (or in most cases) stay on until you ask it to start again. These ic's typically fail in the start mode only. The set will need to be repaired because as the ic's degrade it will just keep doing it until you cant get the ic cold enough.

[@norcal715]

I change both ic and cap for good measure, I have had comments that just changing the cap will remedy some problems so you could try just the caps and if it does not repair it then change the ics

[@satinser]

Thanks for your reply Garry. The model number is TH50PZ80BA. As stated in my post no amount of freeze spray will activate the psu it just continues with the 2 blink fault code. The 15v does appear for a fraction of a second on pin 1 of P7. I am wondering if in this case the D board is at fault ( giving wrong diagnostic). The training manual states that if 15v is not present on pin 1 of P7 the fault lies with the P board. If 15v is present on pin 1 of P7 the fault lies with the D board. In this case the 15v is present but switches off almost immediately.

[@int53185]

I have a TH-50PZ85U with 2 blinks that I bought off of CL for $50. I brought it home and plugged it in...voila it worked. I power cycled it and then got 2 blinks. I unplugged it and power cycled and then got 10 blinks. The MC301 chip looks like it got hot near the edge closest to the board. The case of the is partially melted. What would cause this? The tv operates if I unplug it for a few minutes and then power cycle.

[@ArturMarnik]

Great video! Thanks for making it. I just saved few hundred dollars on a new TV

[@norcal715]

Could still be a problem with MC201. Check VSUS on either the SS or SC boards and see if you have approx 195 volts before shutdown. MC201 is the driver for the 195 VSustain voltage.

[@IronMike75]

Awesome video!! I was going to throw out my set, now I will try to see if it is the IC chips. Where is the best place to buy the replacement parts?

[@dougnavarro3258]

I started with the 10 blink code. I replaced just the caps on both the mc201 and mc301 . I did not replace the TEA1611T chip. I now get 2 blinks.... So I've improved from 10 blinks to 2 blinks...should I replace the TEA1611T also?

[@norcal715]

10 blinks could be something else most definitely, but I have found more than not its the failure of these ic's/capacitors. try the cooling method to see if the set starts. the discharge resistor is simply a high wattage(5 to 10 watts) 1500 ohm that i had available. You could use a higher ohm resistor 5000, 10000, 20000( 5K 10K 20K) but it would take longer to discharge the capacitors.

[@dawgman477]

Worked for me. Link to where the 1uf cap is:

[@davejones5361]

I have this problem and first relaced the three capacitors on the Y-SUS (900uf 220v) as they were swollen. I then replaced the two TEA1611T chips and 1uf 50v capacitors as shown in your clip. Sadly there's no change which is typically my bad luck as this fault seems so common on this model. I have tripple checked my soldering and all looks fine, I did take antstatic precautions whild handling the chips. Any other ideas would be welcom. I have considered removing the Y-SUS connector to see if the voltage on the PSU comes up. Thanks, Dave.

[@oreogaborio]

You are awesome. Thank you so much for this video. Just saved my TH50PZ85U because of you (and a buddy of mine who's really good at soldering.)

[@brendanyoung68]

I have this problem with my TV. I'm going to attempt the repair but was wondering about the 10W resistor load that is used to discharge the big capacitors. When do you discharge the capacitors? I'm confused because he does it at the end of the job. I would have thought you do it before you start working on it...

[@hchelfman]

i just replaced the IC on the one board with no improvement, however both original and new IC when chilled will allow the TV to power up. Those surface mount capacitor(s) should be replaced next?

[@tonypescho8288]

THANK YOU! wow! It worked for me. I just replaced the capacitor. It was a bitch getting the little board out and the soldering was a nightmare. I used a jewelers loop to inspect my work. Got it together and it didn't work. Then I saw one of my soldered areas was touching another. Cleaned it up and it worked! To save time, I bet you could change the cap without removing anything else. THANKS!

[@garyspencer1711]

Tony Pescho Tony, Yes. You're right. NOTE: I have performed the removal & installation of de-coupling capacitor while the main power supply board is still mounted in the TV chassis. What is critical here is good soldering skills and bright light along with (HIGH QUALITY) magnifying glass. My Panasonic plasma has been functioning for over two years now. GREAT JOB ! Regards, Gary S.

[@glennkavanagh6646]

where did you get the capacitors?

[@tonypescho8288]

I think Amazon or ebay

[@glennkavanagh6646]

did you replace your's and is there a name for the capacitor?

[@TheVsc632]

could you share how exactly did you remove MC201 and MC201 circuits from main board? Your video is great but it skips this step.

[@songreosmenep]

I keep saying NORCAL715 You are the best! and I mean that literally. Great video as always...my man of business.

[@GLADENT]

THANK YOU IT WORKED.... CLEANED THE BACK OF THE TV... SOOO MUCH DUST INSIDE...WOW....

[@Chiefy96]

Thanks mate great video. I had overheating problem with th50pz800a, after turning off, if i tried to turn on again i would get 2 blink pattern until the unit cooled down, then it was fine again. After seeing this video I replaced mc201 + mc301 to try fix it, but now when i try to power on i get 3 clicks and 10 blinks. Manual says 2 blinks is D-board, 10 blinks is A-board issue. Any tip on how to diagnose to find out exactly which board/part my issue is so i dont keep buying parts? Thankyou

[@MauricioDBahia]

YESSSS!!! My TV is working again. :) You helped me save about U$600,00. You are the man! Thanks from Brazil!

[@rkelly213]

I followed the video, and ordered the parts off eBay for about $8.00. I spent $29 the first time around from some internet TV store, and it didn't work. Bought the same parts for $8.00 bux so the other place is ripping repair DIYers off. Anyway, got it working. i had to pull a lot of green gain out in the menu settings, and that got rid of the green static. It's a real fine snow. the voltage settings are spot on, I checked all them, and only had to make very very small adjustments. so I was wondering if the power supply itself could be bleeding noise through the circuits , and that's what's causing the green snow?? or like you said, i guess it could be the panel, but I'm not going to replace it on such an old plasma. I have a close friend, who Vizio 50in plasma also developed the same light green snow. A repairman came out years ago and replaced some boards and it went away. so I just don't know what might be causing the snow effect. Thank you for your help.

[@mystuff8024]

Wow an old but great video for repairing old plasmas hope it works for me

[@toddoestreich5116]

I have the 10 blink problem for the Panasonic TH50PZ80U. I took board out and replaced the two small capaciters and the IC chips. Bad news is the the 10 blinks are still there. Is there anything else to try?

[@einspace2007]

Nice video! Why yoh decided to change that surface mount capacitor too? And why that one and not the others? And for one electrolytic? Thanks. einspace

[@Stewibone]

Hi, I have the same problem. Great video! A couple of questions: -Does 10 blinks always mean the IC's are bad or could it be something else. It seems that the repair manual troubleshooting guide points to several possible issues? -Can you explain how you made the resistor to discharge the capacitors? Thanks for the great tutorial, Mike

[@pezdukie]

So I've definitely got this problem and I greatly appreciate you posting this guide. I cooled those IC's and it was with great joy I saw my baby display life again if only for a short time. Now my problem lies in my lack of electrical engineering knowledge. Where can I purchase those replacement chips? I see they're NXP brand chips which is ironic as I'm a finance guy and I have some money invested in NXP (NXPI). Any help is greatly appreciated

[@mootser13]

I have the TH-42PZ85U, I did this and like magic the 10 blinks are gone. But I still do not have any video. The Backlights light up and I can see that the unit turns on. I have already replaced the D board and I am dreading that it could be the A ( inputs ) board. Any thoughts if I am on the right track ?

[@eejjkk]

After disassembly and testing the boards using the Canned Air Cooling method shown, I'm still getting the 3 Clicks and a failed Standby Self Check which leads to the Power Light flashing 10 times. Anything else I can check or test before closing the back of it up again and tossing it in the trash?

[@DevDevOwns]

I am not getting the 10 blinks before, however I am getting the two blinks. It passes the 15v test but once I hit the power button I get the 2 blinks. I do get the 2 clicks in succession when I hit the power but the fans dont even turn on. I was wonder where in the repair process do I go from? or is this not the same problem?

[@heatherwilmoth719]

How imperative is it that the negative side of the capacitor be in the correct place?? I got some different style capacitors from radio shack (p/n 272-0996), but no polarity indicator. Fans now come on for just a few seconds, but do not stay on and have 2 blinks now. Tested Pin 1 P7 for short and it is good. Not having much luck on where to go next. Any help would be much appreciated.

[@underamnesia]

I have a TH-46PZ85U, and i have the 2 blinks and when i hold down the power for about 10 seconds it turns to a 10 blink. But on removing the power cord and putting it back again after 30 seconds it shows 2 blinks, Also I hear the 2 clicks and no 3rd click, does that mean the 15v is not being sent/powerd on. Please do advise.

[@norcal715]

How thick is the black line.? Poss one of the lower drive boards but most likely a panel drive problem(complete plasma panel)

[@ac4tv]

Thank you for this video. My TV started to stop turning on followed by the 2 blink code, which got progressively worse over time. I changed just the 2 caps with 1uf 63v polyester film ones and this seems to have solved the problem. I didn't even have to remove the board from the TV but it'd be a lot easier to do so.

[@Miducuast]

It's only a temporary fix. It probably is because the IC are overheated or have an internal short. Any way you will have to replace them both. I hope it answered your question.

[@meinman100]

You did a wonderful video.A fantastic soldering job. I did screw up on my soldering job so I got a board from China, installed it but still got the dreaded 10 blinking light. I never got any of the 3 clicks at all. Had it on the other board . could this be the logic board or did I just get a bad board Thanks

[@norcal715]

On ebay there are several sellers. just put in the TEA1611T and you will find them. Some with free shipping.

[@norcal715]

I recall testing one a while ago and i think it was about 4.7Kohm. hope this helps.

[@dischang]

I have a TH46PZ85UA with the 704MGL power board, and having 10 blinks before the power button. I did the "chill" test on 301 and it started up. If that means the 15V was the problem, can I just fix the 301 board? or, do I still have to do both?

[@audioguy2012]

Hi, I have a Panasonic Model# TH-50PZ80U. I replaced the parts you described, and it is still blinking 10 times. Would you have any other idea's? I read some where that a thermal fuse can go bad. I just don't know where to look on the board to replace it. Thanks for your help

[@grantsimon8264]

Great Video!! Do you have part numbers for the Capacitors and IC Chips? Where can I purchase them? Also, what kind of soldering iron (wattage) would I need to do this type of repair? Thanks again,