Part 1 VW 2.0t Timing Chain CC Tiguan Passat Bug Golf TT A3 Audi balance shaft @ 62k miles WOW CCTA

[@noitrex]

On cars that have the UDS protocol that channel 93 is called "Camshaft adaptation intake bank 1 phase position", the max value should be + or - 5, value should be checked at idle with the engine warmed up.

[@SCRAPIRE]

I been here since the start of the channel. Now I'm seeing your name pop up in other KZbin videos. Congratulations on 12k

[@michaelw6277]

I also used an OBDeleven to diagnose my GTI’s timing chain stretch and it was an accurate confirmation. Something else I also noticed was that the drivetrain lash that I thought was due to bad mounts was eliminated with a fresh chain. Turns out mine was stretched enough that when I went from off to on throttle there was a lurch as the engine too up the slack in the chain that the tensioner could no longer compensate for.

[@schemeteam2954]

I need to mess around with my 2010 Tiguan that's sitting in my front yard because the timing chains is shot and my engine valves in cylinder 2 and 4 is bent from my serpentine belt blowing out ok me. Nice video and gives me the motivation to mess with my car. I have a 2000 Infiniti G20 that's still going strong even if the timing chains got miles on it and I hate that germans make it real difficult to work on because it requires special tools and procedures.

[@edwardmyers8782]

OBD2 that 11 is II the Roman numeral for two.

[@NaptownTuner]

www.ecstuning.com/b-obdeleven-parts/obdeleven-pro-scan-tool/024871obd01~a/?gad_source=1

[@christopheryoung68]

28:20 Took off tensioner pully and used 10 mm box end wrench as spacer (bolt will catch timing chain cover if no spacer is used). Put bolt back in through 10 mm box wrench and moved the tensioner out of the way. Then used long 3/8 drive t27 torque adapter. Was the easiest way I found.

[@rjmari]

Didn't expect to see a cold (maybe warm?) air intake and R8 coils on an auto tranny Tiguan.

[@fastboatster]

Nice video, waiting for part 2. I would like you to do the timing and oil pump chains on the n20 engine.

[@unprofessionalmechanic8466]

Yeah! You are 100% correct about that mesh. That mesh is evil! It broke and went trough oil channel and chewed up intake cam and its beds in my Tiguan. Are you going to install new mesh/filter or leave it like that? I think VW stopped using those meshes at some point, didn't they?

[@jeremydoblinger3609]

I've been working off of jackstands and Jack's for ever..when there's a will there's a way..iam a serious diy guy nit a pro mechanic..I'm a welder fabricator by trade..but I swang wrenches too

[@mkzenthusiasts]

What's the best used Audi to buy today also have they fixed when the Audi reaches 80,000 miles it needs several thousands of dollars in repairs they used to be built to last the drive train was bulletproof in the 80s but the rust but all cars back then didn't dip the Body parts. Once they fixed the rot it was rebuild the entire driveline

[@jas4638]

Waiting buddy for part 2 ;) Thx for detailed instructions ,only this time your cam lense kook like bit dirty unsharp ,not so sharp as previous videos.

[@stevenedwards2162]

Having this work on my AUDI tt bought it from a car sales outlet with a six month warranty on it only a month ago heard a rattle when starting it up and when changing gears , , hope who's ever doing it knows what he's doing .🤔🤞

[@virtisconsole12]

I agree with updated guides and tensioner 62k seems like a low mileage for the cam adaptation to read -4.77° I’m not sure what the state of the motor was during the video of the OBDII reading but my guess was a cold start because the value one is the camshaft speed it looks like it’s still on fast idle to get the cat converter hot, normal idle of the cam is in the 380 range. But with a -4.77° it’s on the edge of slipping time if you said the plunger was fully extended.. I hear that it’s normal range for value 3 is +5 advanced to -5 retarded, so it’s right there, I’ve also heard that they can go to -10° with the variable exhaust cans .. but it’s time to upgrade the timing system great video .. for a true measure of the stretch you’ll want it at operating temp 80° C I’d be interested what that value is now, my bet with your work it’s near 0°

[@jakobbecker6435]

When it’s cold it reads lower

[@brianmooney7009]

You are the volkswagon guru. What state are you located in Love to hire you for my 2012 cc repair work.

[@ivanvega2821]

Currently doing a timing chain job on a 2010 Passat CC. I ran into a weird issue (for me at least). I have put the engine at TDC with cylinder 1 in the up position and the crank Luella at the 4oclock (shown by the triangle mark and slit on pulley). I have rotated the engine several times but have not been able to line the cams as they should be. The closes I have come to the right position is both cams at the 1oclock position. I have measured the 65mm and 125mm overall and definitely not even close to that specification by VW. The vehicle presented a p0016 and vehicle has the old style tensioner and is also very easy to push in (sign it has failed as I understand it). Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!!!

[@MecaniculAndrei]

you are interesting, you have interesting and very professional tools, I would like you to show us all your tools in one day. ”

[@peter-wi3rd]

Great video! Did you end up replacing that torn strainer in the bearing bracket bridge?

[@macnotes2259]

Will this guide work on a Ea888 gen 2 motor? I gotta do timing chains on my personal car. I have all the tools just dont know how to do it..

[@crescentandstarglory]

Why did it need the chain work at 60k?

[@richardcarrick4079]

My local vw dealership charged me $1300 to do waterpump, timing belt, & tensioners

[@StockDC2]

Wow, that's cheap.

[@lucavaccino6220]

can you please give more info about this dealership?

[@virtisconsole12]

Hey Nap I’m gonna pull my upper timing cover thus weekend on my ‘13 A4 B8 if I don’t see the updated chain should I replace it along with the tensioner and guides? It has 71k on it doesn’t consume any oil either but I do see a little oil on the cam tray gonna do the breather and upper cover gasket.. also what’s the best place for the upgrade chain kit? Thanks great video .. yeah a VW I agree they’re a PITA to work on but I admit I like VAG cars

[@NaptownTuner]

This Tiguan had all factory updated parts form factory and was already almost stretched to the limit at just over 60k miles so just replace at least the camshaft chain and tensioner if not the balance chain as well. I always do the balance chain every time at this point. I wouldn’t worry about the cam tray until you pressure wash it with the engine running at operating temperature first maybe with engine degreaser and keep an eye on the leak, surface seepage seems to be normal over a long period of time. Don’t spay directly on the turbo. Or you can wash it at home cold without the engine running if you have a pressure washer. Any reputable parts supplier this kit in this video came from fcp euro and I like them so far. I don’t always replace everything but the 3 cam guides cam tensioner and chains (cam and balance) are the most important parts. If you take the case off without twisting it out of shape too bad you can reuse it but it it gets distorted it can leak if it doesn’t go on right.

[@clippism]

Hey Naptown, How do you prefer people contact you about work?

[@NaptownTuner]

[e-mail] but I’m too busy to do anything but oil consumption and timing / rear main seal and such. Only bigger jobs

[@RKDub5479]

Hey I got a 2010 Audi A5 2.0t that had the timing chain tensioner failure and I got it fixed but now the crank pulley wobbles and makes the tensioner wobble. I just wondering if you’ve seen it before and how I can fix it

[@RKDub5479]

Also I know it’s not the crank pulley or bolt because I replaced them both to see if that would fix the problem

[@David8k8]

Are you going to replace the engine mount bolts? They are supposed to be 1 time use stretch bolts. I am thinking about replacing my engine/transmission mounts soon, and cant decide on replacing the bolts or not. Some people say they can be reused even though they are technically 1 time use.

[@unprofessionalmechanic8466]

Hi. If you already deciding, i.e.putting serious thought in regards those bolts, just order them new, I guess, they cant be that expensive to be significant.

[@David8k8]

Yeah, I here you. But they are kind of expensive for bolts, $15-30, for a set of 3 from places like ECS.

[@FloridaBikeSupplyOnline]

I've reused them before. But like you said, TTY bolts should be one time use.

[@David8k8]

It looks like naptown reused them too.

[@venisheva5055]

Why you not remove hoses, Expansion tank gas hoses???

[@dumbeezy5480]

this dude is built different

[@scottricci7154]

How do you know the chain is stretched or the tensioners are severely worn?

[@NaptownTuner]

If it’s over 100k miles just do it like you’d do a timing belt. It can be checked visually and with obd11 scan tool

[@premiumautorepair9238]

ODB 11 LOL Its OBD 2 :)

[@NaptownTuner]

Or maybe obd11 is the name for a specific scan tool

[@andrewmeadors936]

In case no has he told you and you've not learned, the diagnostic system is called OBD Two not OBD Eleven. I can hardly trust someone who doesn't know. You should learn to use the ROSS-TECH VCDS you claim that you have .... Also, I would not trust your work if you tried to perform it without removing the motor mount.

[@R0bTheRobot]

"OBDELEVEN" is the name of the device they are using.

[@Miauzur]

Spinning the socket/special tool sockets,screws/bolts or any other triple square before they fully engage is just wrong,you rush through things like it is some kind of a competition,not even gonna look for part 2 of this video just to see "how it's done".To the owners of VW 2.0 TSI turbo-get rid of that piece of s... just like I did before it gets to a 100K,otherwise you're screwed.Intake valves carbon build up,oil consumption,stretched timing chain,crappy electronics,bad turbo etc the engine is a piece of crap.That's just the tip of an iceberg.Does VW look good inside and out-yes,but that's all there is ,the engine and electronics is the most unreliable crap in the US,I didn't buy this junk,my wife wanted to,now she's properly educated in the matter.Toyota,Honda or Subaru only.Amen.German cars are not what they' re used to be -too much cheap plastic and electronics costing a fortune to repair,even a used to be simple VW after falsifying emission test and merging with with Bugatti,Lamborghini,Skoda,Porsche etc and incorporating high end but cheap electronics into a base/standard models screwed it up even more.VW was gonna go all electric in Europe,but nobody wants to buy the crap,therefore VW has to make it up somehow by letting go of thousands of workers and making the gas engine car models even cheaper than before.Enjoy your VW.