Part 6: Wall Plates and Corner Braces

In part 6 of the Tiny Timber Frame we cut the wall plates to length and add the mortises for the posts and corner braces. We also realize that the corner braces we previously made are too short! 🤦🏼‍♂️
Get the Sketchup document here: jesseschutt.gu...

[@ThrehaneMiniatures]

I appreciate that you take the time to explain what you're doing before demonstrating it. Nice work!

[@JesseSchutt]

Thanks :-)

[@cedarberryclanblackberryac6447]

Good stuff! Can't wait to see the girts go in

[@JesseSchutt]

Thanks! I hope to get them in soon!

[@ervintaylor6508]

Just came across this video great information I'm getting ready to start a small timber frame myself what brand of timber frame chisels are you using

[@ensen89]

The craftsmenship on the joinery is awesome, but I think there might still be a misstake in the layout. You measure 23 1/8 " from the inside corner. But then you measure the depth of the housing from the outside. So the dimension, that determines your braces is 23 1/8 " + however your housing are deep. And that varies depending on the timber thickness. I totally agree on using a layout, that helps you ignore varience in the timber dimensions, but I think you are mixing it up. Imaging your wallplate did not have overhang, but was flush with the post on the outside. That virtuell corner is from where I would pull all the measurements. Still, I might have gotten something wrong, but it would be a shame if you had to makes those braces a third time.

[@JesseSchutt]

😅Ha! I sure don't want to make them a third time! Thanks for the detailed comment and you might be correct. Based on the 3d model, if the inside corner is the fixed position and I pull 5 1/2" from the outside (which is in the model) I should be at 23 1/8". I'll see how that works out on one brace before I remake all of them. Again, thanks for your thoughts 👍🏼👍🏼

[@micvanreijen]

I noticed the same. The reference point you'd use is the point where the inside faces of the 'ideal timber within' of the plate and post meet (re Jack Sobon; Will Beemer). And those in turn can come from a chaulk line if you don't have a proper reference face. As your wood seems pretty consistent (and you double check your stuff) it'll work out fine here!

[@tonypachelli8327]

Great work, Jesse! This question is for motises in general.......... When using the chain mortiser, do you clean out the bottom radius left behind or do you just cut the mortise deeper to allow for tennon clearance? I suppose you could cut 45 degree corners on the tennon?

[@JesseSchutt]

Thanks Tony! Good question! I tend to cut deep enough that the radius doesn't hit the tenon. I will also chop the corners of the tenons off too, but more so they are easier to get into the mortise.

[@davidgravinay8677]

je suit vos vidéos serait-it possible de traduire en français Merci D.G