How to boost Chinese table tennis rubbers like DHS Hurricane 3 or Skyline 3

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The article entitled "To boost or not to boost" is available here: blog.tabletenn...

[@walterwang766]

i recommend boosting this video by setting it to 1.25x speed

[@ThePongProfessor]

Thankfully, it is easy for you to adjust the speed settings :)

[@myself6745]

Me watching with 2x speed

[@elias3026]

There's no real reason to apply 3 layers of glue and one additional layer on the blade - it's not as if the rubber it's gonna fall from your blade. All it does is making your bat heavier (which might be a good think if you have a long stroke like ma long) and dangerously thick for competition where they actually measure your equipment. There's a limit to how thick your balde can be and if you have the 2.2 mm rubber... Ugh One 'thin' layer of booster:))) that one layer was more than I would apply in 2 I think. You said you want only one layer so it doesn't increase the spin and speed too much - well having no glue between the booster and the rubber does exactly that. It allows the sponge to absorb really quickly the booster. You have a nice feeling but it last shorter. The Chinese that I've seen doing it all apply one layer of glue so it lasts longer. The booster does reach the sponge with no problems, but the effect last for maybe 1-2 months (there is no exact number because it depends on whether the rubber is new or used and how much booster and glue you've applied). Applying that many glue layers actually does something - it makes the rubber a bit faster and bouncier. There's a lot of rubbish on the internet regarding Hurricane 3 and H3 neo... About the orange and blue sponge... Things like the blue one is softer or harder. If you have an orange H3 with 40 degree hardness and a blue H3 with 40 degree hardness, which one is harder? They are both 40 degree hardness :))) blue is not softer/ harder. If you want a harder version, buy a harder verison... But that might be a big mistake. The harder the rubber, the more tackier it is (the more spin it has) but at the expense of speed. So you need a long and EXPLOSIVE stroke like ma long to make the ball drop from the topsheet. I've talked with a national Chinese Coach that trains juniors. He told me that Ma Long changed to a softer rubber because of his injury and age. He doesn't have the same strength anymore. So go for a 41-42 degree one only if you think you've got more physical strength than ma long :)) One last thought about the glue layers. Timo Boll has a video with himself glueing his rubbers. He applies only 2 layers with no booster on dignics 09c, with a thicker layer first because the rubbers are new and they absorb the glue faster than used ones. I'm not saying it's wrong to go for 3 layers if they are new (it's still playable), but it's dangerously close to illegal, especially with booster :)) I just realised you glue them after 8 hours (before the curve massively) - maybe that's why you need 3 layers :)) they curve like that on your balde. Ideally if you're not in a rush, you'd want to wait for them to flatten out again before gluing just as you accidentally did in your video. I'm curious if you felt any difference. I hope you're doing well guys. Stay safe.

[@elias3026]

@@avaneshprasan6492 feeling is given by the blade's flex and vibration...

[@christianwu1309]

@@avaneshprasan6492 I can second this. Timo boll uses tensor/non tacky rubber. So a thinner layer of glue is exactly what he need. But with Chinese rubber like you said you need a thicker layer.

[@yehan9298]

This is a guy who knows how you boost a Chinese sticky rubber, as a Chinese, I am telling you, believe! Because I won't tell you why the rubber curved that much in the video, and why I only apply one thin layer of glue on the rubber and blade afer boosted, but Sautiut Elias did. Happy to see people like Avanesh Prasan has his own thought which make us still have some advantages, oh, I know what u gona say, 'It's cheating!', right?^^

[@ThePongProfessor]

I prefer thin glue layers. However the glue that I am using here is very runny, and I need 2-3 layers to ensure stable adhesion.

[@SimplestGuyAlive]

Thank you I am sure this will be useful for so many players out there.

[@ThePongProfessor]

Thanks. I hope so !!

[@juanfeliz6436]

Great video! How do you reboost? Do you have to remove the glue and then do the process again?

[@ThePongProfessor]

That's how I have been taught it, yes. Except, you definitively only use one layer of oil when reboosting. I discuss this matter here: blog.tabletennis11.com/to-boost-or-not-to-boost

[@danilocarvalho4827]

Very complete video, congrats... Do you know how to decrease the speed? I have a anti-spin and desire to slow down the seed. Thanks!

[@ThePongProfessor]

Sorry, I don't know

[@walgustas8794]

How do you preserve tackiness of a booster chinese rubber? At the end your rubber was very sticky and how do you keep that stickness? Would help me a lot to hear your tips on how you keep your rubber tacky.

[@ThePongProfessor]

You jest gave me a great idea for an upcoming video :)

[@walgustas8794]

Haha, I'm glad i can help you with that!

[@walgustas8794]

Just wondering, when the video will be out? :D

[@Crocs-ky]

Make sure to use protective films and keep your rubbers clean.

[@davehess1982]

Great video! Can you tell me What is the differences between this and H3 Provincial BS 40°

[@ThePongProfessor]

You can read my reviews here: blog.tabletennis11.com/Skyline-3-provincial-40-degree-blue-sponge

[@loechannel9757]

Are you sealing or lacquer your blade? It's important or not for sealing our blade? Because some opinion : if you seal the blade, feeling of blade is gone. This is true? Sorry for mybad english.

[@ThePongProfessor]

There are mixed opinions regarding sealing the blade. If you change rubbers frequently, you probably should seal the blade (due to potential damage from repeated application of the water-based glue). There are thin professional varnishes (e.g., from Joola) that offer protection and which do not change the properties of the blade noticeably (to me at least). If you use too much of a regular wood product (such as MinWax) it can change the properties of the blade. Some professional players are getting their blades varnished by experts (who use their own secret formulations), and supposedly the blade properties can be tuned to the player's liking. That's actually something I have been thinking to experiment with at some point.

[@loechannel9757]

@@ThePongProfessor thank you so much.

[@PedroPauloCusinatoCorreaDias]

What difference between 1 layer,2 layers and 3 layers booster in Hurricane 3 and Skyline 3?

[@ThePongProfessor]

With Hurricane 3, the rubber gets very noticeably softer after a third booster application. I haven't done a side-by-side test of H3 and Skyline 3, but my initial impression is that H3 takes the booster more effectively than Skyline.

[@PedroPauloCusinatoCorreaDias]

Does a Hurricane 3 Neo commercial with a booster 1 layer match the Rakza 9 in terms of speed? Maybe I will change from Rakza 9 to Hurricane 3 Neo with 1 layer booster in forehand.

[@ThePongProfessor]

@@PedroPauloCusinatoCorreaDias The Rakza 9 will still be somewhat faster than a H3 boosted with one layer. The whole mantra of Chinese rubbers is that they are relatively slow (even with boosting) but this allows the player to impart more of their own power on the ball.

[@PedroPauloCusinatoCorreaDias]

@@ThePongProfessor If at least it's faster than the backhand side (Rakza 7), that's good.

[@ThePongProfessor]

@@PedroPauloCusinatoCorreaDias I think it is..

[@Chicho-trremoto]

don't you put glue on it first? most of the videos that I have seen first put a layer of glue and then boster it, even on the official page where I buy the boster it says that you put glue first and then boster

[@ThePongProfessor]

I learned this technique from a high level Chinese player (who in turn learnt this from experienced coaches). I have tried the glue first approach as well, but in my opinion the effects are more subtle and the feeling more mushy.

[@loechannel9757]

How long booster effect for 1 layer you used?

[@ThePongProfessor]

It all depends how often you play. If you play 3-4 times per week, I would say it will last at least 1 month, if not two.

[@elias3026]

It doesn't really depend on how much you play... The booster it's absorbed into the rubber at a certain rate regardless of whether you play or not. But you can prolong the effect of the boaster by adding a glue layer before applying the booster. I'll write a longer comment about this.

[@lindlycabaron1124]

Can you make a video how to fix rubber separation as chinese rubbers gets older? I’ve been using chinese rubbers for years but they kinda separate every 1yr of usage

[@ThePongProfessor]

Short answer - there is no easy fix. I would recommend simply buying a new one. I have, in the past, tried to use a scalpel to cut open "bubbles" and pour in glue. It is ok for practice but I would never use such a rubber in (practice) matches that I care about.

[@knechtbarnabas2269]

don't you have to let it dry?( booster ) before applying to the blade

[@ThePongProfessor]

Yes, the booster has to be fully absorbed into the sponge. Then one applies water-based glue, which needs to switch from white to transparent (and sticky) before assembling it on the blade.

[@bairontringa5863]

Hello, did the grip and stickiness that was seen at the end of the DHS Skyline 3 video last long? Or was it only after removing the protective plastic? Can you do a review video for the Skyline after all this time, thanks!

[@julianeeee2399]

The rubber will be sticky for quite a long time as long as if you keep good care of the rubber. Cleaning it with special cleaner and having a plastic protector thing stuck to it after using it.

[@bairontringa5863]

@@julianeeee2399 I bought this rubber, and after removing the protective plastic it was just as sticky as in the video, but after it got dirty, it was washed off with a few drops of water and the stickiness is not the same, it is still tacky, but not as seen in the video (maximum two bounces on the rubber). I think that when you first remove the protective plastic there is a kind of sticky residue that makes the rubber look much more tacky, and after the first cleaning the true grip is revealed. Will I be right?

[@julianeeee2399]

​@@bairontringa5863 Remember to not try to use too much water and there is a special chemical for the sticky rubbers and yes after using it for a bit it will be less sticky and from using it myself and hearing from friends we all think that the rubber still works great even though it is less stick. This rubber will still be one of the stickiest rubber even after using it for a bit.

[@ThePongProfessor]

Hello - Obviously, there is little that beats a brand-new Skyline when it comes to tackiness. I will say though that a lot of the tack can be retained even after long use, if you clean the rubber. For daily use, I apply a few drops of water and then once per week I would use the Revolution 3 rejuvenator. Also, remember to cover the rubber (or keep it with minimal exposure to air) when not in use to avoid oxidation.

[@ThePongProfessor]

Chinese rubbers have an amazing longevity, especially if you keep them away from air.

[@BilguunsparKO]

it's almost like rubber has magnet attached to it :P

[@ThePongProfessor]

Crazy, right !?

[@ondraondrysboukal2090]

One more thing question. Can I use Butterfly Free chack pro for gluing Dhs hurricane 3 neo provincial blue sponge? Thanks

[@ThePongProfessor]

I don't see why not. BFC is a much stronger glue than Revolution 3, so you need to apply fewer layers. Because BFC is stronger you need to be more careful when taking off the rubber to prevent your blade from splintering

[@ondraondrysboukal2090]

@@ThePongProfessor Ok, thanks so much. Stay safe

[@Crocs-ky]

I don’t like butterfly glue. Messes up the rubbers.

[@knechtbarnabas2269]

How I remove the BFC glue off the sponge and blade ? Should I buy a butterfly glue remover ?

[@guitoro5685]

Pra quê?

[@ThePongProfessor]

Improved speed, spin, and feeling

[@ondraondrysboukal2090]

Hey, I love your videos. I want to ask, if Hurricane 3 neo provincial blue sponge comes with pre-boosted? I want to get my forehead to another level. Thanks for the you answer, stay safe

[@ThePongProfessor]

Thanks. I actually have never tried the H3 Neo provincial blue sponge, so I don't know the answer to this question. Sorry.

[@gold9994]

Anyone here know about the durability? Don't want to replace it every 1-2 months if it reduces the durability

[@ThePongProfessor]

I have boosted H3 rubbers that are 1-2 years old. Your topsheet is more likely to oxidize than any degradative effect of the booster. One exception: if you boosted a blue sponge H3 heavily, you could risk weakening the connection between the topsheet and sponge, leading to formation of a bubble. The orange sponge version is more resilient.

[@MultiGameLetsPlay]

haifu or seamoon?

[@ThePongProfessor]

Sea Moon

[@seanbauer7933]

How did it play?

[@ThePongProfessor]

Absolutely AMAZING. Better than the equivalent Hurricane 3, imo.

[@seanbauer7933]

@@ThePongProfessor oh wow! Please do a review and/or a video about it. Thank you!

[@seanbauer7933]

@@ThePongProfessor I’ve always wondered why maybe only Xu Xin plays Skyline

[@ThePongProfessor]

@@seanbauer7933 Tabletennis11.com will publish the written review at some point. I might make a video when I get time.

[@seanbauer7933]

@@ThePongProfessor Thank you! I really appreciate your thorough reviews

[@z0uLess]

That is insanely little bounce

[@ThePongProfessor]

Yeah, it is crazy

[@z0uLess]

​@@ThePongProfessorI just use a hybrid rubber called Rakza Z to remove all the variables of boosting and it works much more forgiving to me as a beginner player

[@artkirakosyan2633]

Better to use 2.1 sponge not to worry about thickness when applying multiple layers of glue. Dianchi water glue is better, because it peels of like one piece, the easiest glue to remove from the rubber and it also has slight amount of booster in it which gives a little bit more softness. It also has low viscosity so the layers of glue are super thin. Applying one two thin layers before boosting helps so that the booster doesn’t soak in immediately and unevenly before you spread it on the sponge. After one month you will have to remove it and reboost. When you remove it from the blade third time 90 percent of the time you will break the sponge, because the sponge becomes softer and less elastic after couple of boosts. So don’t expect more then two months out of it. Maximum three months. If you over-boost the rubber you won’t know about it first couple of weeks. Then it will start playing like your rubber has no sponge and paddle will feel like a cork. Boosted hurricane 3 feels like magic. Even if you have the worse technique like me, it feels like the rubber can do everything that you want it to do, it never feels like oh shit if it wasn’t this soft i could counter this topspin, or if it wasn’t this hard i could lift up this underspin. It only feels like oh crap if i had more time to swing my hand a little more back then i could return this shot. So it helps to improve your anticipation, footwork. The best rubber for sure.

[@ThePongProfessor]

Thank you for your comment. I posted my opinions regarding the different boosting techniques here: blog.tabletennis11.com/to-boost-or-not-to-boost

[@artkirakosyan2633]

@@ThePongProfessor good post. One thing to add about prebooster neo hurricanes. Is that neo rubbers gets to the consumer much later then it was boosted. So the boosting effect more often is gone, and you have to reboost it right fron the start. Out of 30 neo rubbers that i bought only two had the boosting, others needed a boost. The good way to tell whether it is fresh or not is to look at the dome of the rubber. If it is inward then it is old and needs to be boosted, if it is outward then it is fresh you can just apply and play. It is better to buy non neo rubber and boost yourelf always. Because when you get it boosted and the boosting effect is gone, it is like you already lost one boost for nothing. Non neo rubber have a better chance to be reboosted. Another thing to mention is that the hardness of the neo rubber is measured after the boosting. So 41 degree neo must have been 42 degree regular and became 41 after their initial boost. Sonif you get regular rubber get at least 41. If you get neo then 40 is good too.

[@markuskem579]

Hey Patrick, can you say something about the durability of the Skyline 3 BS? Did you boost it a second time after the first boost wore off?

[@ThePongProfessor]

I only boosted it once. Durability seemed to be good.

[@Baraka552]

Oh, wow. That dead-hard feeling at the end - is it straight after boosting?

[@ThePongProfessor]

The rubber is incredibly tacky to begin with, and boosting only increases the rubber's tackiness. It is actually more dynamic.

[@Baraka552]

@@ThePongProfessor Interesting. You didn't treat the topsheet, right?

[@ThePongProfessor]

@@Baraka552 No, you never treat the topsheet when boosting. This was a brandnew Skyline sheet. The tackiness reduces with prolonged play.

[@Baraka552]

@@ThePongProfessor OK, thanks!

[@surgum1986]

What's the difference between 2014 and 2017 sea moon?

[@ThePongProfessor]

I honestly don't know if they're is any difference, I don't think there is.

[@mohamadpanahandeh2627]

Guide to making boosters at home please🙏🏻

[@ThePongProfessor]

Yeah, that could be fun, and as a chemist I should be inherently interested. Truth be told, though, the existing boosters are plenty good if you are into that kind of thing.

[@23RedNose23]

Is it provincial model these 💎💎 ?

[@ThePongProfessor]

Yup - provincial

[@anhangphan4216]

So how long actually it is to wait in order the rubber to get the best performance???

[@ThePongProfessor]

There are different schools on how to accomplish that. With single-layer boosting, I was taught to wait ~6 hours (until most but not all of the dome had disappeared). With double-layer boosting, you will have to wait 24-48 hours.

[@anhangphan4216]

@@ThePongProfessor ok tks

[@dedalosikaros2161]

I usually boost with baby oil. It creates also the dome shape.

[@ThePongProfessor]

Yeah, people have been experimenting with different kinds of oils (paraffin, mineral) and booters. Personally, I have only tried three different commercial boosters, Kailin, Falco, and Sea Moon.

[@zhuangcorp]

What is the function of adding 2 glue layers after the booster?

[@MattClippers]

So you can put it on the paddle?

[@ThePongProfessor]

You need the glue to attach it to the blade. The booster has no gluing capacity.

[@DineshKumar-rn3vv]

How much this

[@ThePongProfessor]

Check Tabletennis11.com

[@amitabhshakya8452]

I heard that in Chinese rubber it comes with pre glue and before boosting need to take that out, is that true?

[@tk1ngatk1nga]

Yes, some rubbers like the neo hurricane 2/3 come slightly boosted and pre glued, so to boost more you simply remove the glue and boost, but some people just boost over the pre glued rubber and glue and stick, apparently you are best pre glueing to protect the rubber from the booster, which can bubble the rubber. I tried boosting once and just can’t take the waiting, so I just play with regular neo 3 and neo 2.

[@amitabhshakya8452]

@@tk1ngatk1nga thanks 😀

[@ThePongProfessor]

The NEO versions are pre-boosted and there is no need to boost them (otherwise, you might as well just by the regular non-NEO version and boost yourself). If you decide to boost a NEO rubber, then yes, you should the boost layer off and reapply yourself.

[@wanhafiz5313]

@@ThePongProfessor how to remove the pre boost layer?

[@puppybeagle1024]

haifu semen... oof

[@ThePongProfessor]

Oof oof

[@iAmRyRyRy]

nicely put together video, have you observed any differences boosting h3 neo and normal h3? commercial

[@ThePongProfessor]

The H3N comes pre-boosted (that the sticky layer). I don't think, I ever re-boosted a H3N.

[@VADIBOY007]

@@ThePongProfessor Hello! Answer please, i.e. the factory booster is applied to the H3 neo? and it does not need to be covered with a booster? Or can you still enhance it with a booster? I'm sorry, my English bad, im russian

[@ThePongProfessor]

@@VADIBOY007 Hi - I believe people generally peel off the factory booster layer from H3N before re-boosting. I don't think people apply additional layers on top of the booster from the factory. In my opinion, if you plan to boost the rubber, use the H3 rather than H3N. I think H3N is for those people who don't want to boost themselves.

[@penholdpips]

Hi Patrick, TY, nice video! Do you always do that many glue layers? Are extra layers needed because of applying booster? I’m lazy and often apply only one layer, even attach when slightly wet still 😬 Wondering what the advantage of extra layers would be. Thanks!

[@ThePongProfessor]

Thanks M M. The Revolution 3 glue is pretty thin. When a boosted rubber curls like this, you need some layers to hold it down to the blade. Also, my understanding is that Chinese top-players believe they get more dynamic feeling from thicker glue layers (their glue layers are significantly thicker than mine !!). You could always use a thicker glue like the DHS #15 glue. I like Revo 3 because it is incredibly easy to remove from the rubber (as a tester, I often "move" rubbers around different blades; at some point there is significant glue built-up, at which point I remove it, and start fresh). Water-based-glue should be dry and transparent before assembly. You can use a hair-dryer to accelerate the process. PPPP

[@penholdpips]

@@ThePongProfessor Thx very much for your detailed response, that’s helpful 👍🏻