Table Tennis Booster: YES or NO?

[@pingsunday]

00:45 What is Speed Glue? 01:21 Why table tennis players use Speed Glue? 02:37 Is Using Speed Glue Safe? 05:19 What is table tennis booster? 07:24 Booster is legal or not? 08:51 Is Using table tennis booster detectable? 12:41 Why Chinese players use the booster? 14:42 How Chinese players use the booster? 16:52 Is using booster harmful? 21:42 Should I use booster?

[@bach9759]

EmRatThich Table Tennis Coach mmm

[@LucasFR11]

What chinese rubber works best without booster?

[@sergiobongharten]

@@LucasFR11 Xiom Vega China, Tcore Master X

[@santiago89627]

Congratulations again... Outstanding video. The most professional work I've ever seen. Keep up the great work coach!!! Please make a video about injuries in table tennis and also how to prevent it. I hear that Jean philippe gatien has a deformation in his forearm because of the wrong tecnique in his backhand. How can we prevent injuries and long damage in our tendons and muscles? Thank you for your advice

[@pingsunday]

I will make a video about injury soon. :) It's on my plan. I'm rather busy these days.

[@vasilvasilev7938]

still hoping for that video

[@MrRudrakshn]

Can u share the link for the injury video, incase it's put up.

[@binbinshao1575]

$15 hurricane 3 + boost better than tennegy

[@spaceinvader384]

Extremely valuable information on history and present, much appreciated. I just want to learn and explore different aspects of table tennis as a hobby. 23:09 Physical approach. "If you use Chinese rubbers, glue it properly and hit HARD for 2 weeks to get optimal hardness" is the best I've heard about improving hard sponge. Settles down my mind on all talks, arguments, artificial chemicals, natural oils, pro's and con's etc. Congrats again.

[@neverherenormissed]

i am very grateful to this video. i was literally torn between to boost or not to boost. now i only play for fun and the possibility of getting cancer after a few years due to boosting is indeed a high risk with minimal to no reward. thanks coach!

[@pingsunday]

thank you 🙏

[@albchu]

Correction: 2.10 and 2.15mm sponges are primarily used to keep the total thickness of the topsheet and sponge under the easily testable 4.00mm limit. Boosting expands the sponge in 3 dimensions, so thickness increases.

[@taumax]

I don't get the point of the booster. If the point of the booster is to make the sponge softer, then why not just buy a rubber with a softer sponge in the first place?

[@bradrolleri2909]

I was wondering the same?!

[@Dr.OneilAakashBiswas1038]

Me too

[@canicetang8837]

Using of the booster is to have the best of everything. The key of making the best contact out of your paddle are three components. 1. Speed. 2. Spin. 3. Control. There are techniques such as footwork that can help with your fundamentals in the first two. Your paddle as in your equipment would be the other key component. As the Coach said, 80% of the shots comes from your blade. The softer the material used in the blade from hinoki, various types of woods along with the number of ply levels (usually 5 or 7 ply), would give you more control in compensation of speed from harder materials such as full carbon blade. Once again, speed will be faster with heavier materials but sacrificing in control and flexibility of weight. So you will need to figure out your own playing style to determine the proper type of blade that suits you perfectly. Since most cannot alter the blade other than grip changes. Everyone is pretty much even on that front. So now we are at the 'rubber' level. The hardness of the sponge will have the same effects on those three components. Pips rubbers are the best for control but are the slowest in speed and spin. Hence choppers use them to diffuse the spin from heavy loops under heavy attack. Then you will have the soft, medium, medium-hard rubbers with more speed and spin but slightly less in control. Also the 'thickness' of the sponge matters as well. Thicker the sponge will provide the cushioning of the catapult effect but at the expense of accuracy due to extra weight, which is extremely crucial for flexibility of shots which the players can do. At the other end of the scale, hard rubbers with the European made Tensor (greater than 50+ degrees) would be fast, but the sponge would be slightly less spinner than the softer mediums and have the least control. As you know, speed and spins are nothing without control. What is the point of hitting hard, fast and maximum spins if nothing gets on the table? Or if you have the ball on the table all the time but it is so slow and hardly any spins so you are constantly playing defense while your opponents bullying you around point after point? Neither extremes are ideal for Table Tennis and you needed to have a balance between the two. Hence, everyone's opinion is different and that's why we all use custom paddles. Chinese National Team Rubbers are in a different league. They have the hardest rubber and the hardest sponge on their forehand only, as they use Tensor Rubber for their backhands to loop at a higher angle and more margins on the table from distance. So for their 'forehand' rubbers, they will do two things to compensate for the spin and control "without" sacrificing the speed. 1. The 'tacky' rubber that literally helped to grip the ball a friction longer similar to the softer European Tensor Rubber without losing the speed. This is the legal part but the tackiness only last for a short time. To have this temporary tackiness, they are also 'chemically' treated so most complained of the 'bad' smell. 2. Using of the booster to increase their spin and control with the several degrees softer. Compared with the speed glue, they can last longer and they can use it for an entire tournament without constantly changing rubbers with the speed glue era. So in a nutshell, the Chinese players 'hit from the ground' to generate speed and spin. When you added all the factors with the advantage of extra speed from their hard forehand rubber, while the booster chemically altered sponge which thins the thickness and soften the compound makes the paddle lighter (once again, 20 to 30% off from the original cut rubber weight)- you can be more accurate with your shots with less catapult effect so you can have more control. You can see that all of their forehands, in particular to their loops, with their DHS National Hard Rubbers plus booster, are all low 'arc' clearing much lower to the net with extreme speed, spin and always on the table that literally 'skips' on the bounce. As compared to the Tenergy 05 with is high arc, spinny, much slower speed with high clearance and safety on the table. Techniques and science in the equipment will determine these differences, where as the booster provides another advantage chemically to the sponge. All the those factors together, you will have the best of all three components in your paddle. Which is an unbeatable combinations - while the booster lasts.

[@pliuya]

It is nothing but money.

[@pingsunday]

the booster expands the rubber. inject the tension into the rubber. soft rubber does not have tension. its like the high tension rubber of ten05.

[@Ali.Abdulla]

very thoughtful on all levels of analysis. Your channel, and this video are both very underrated. Keep it up. Great work!

[@judithlatorza135]

I'm from Philippines I always like and watch your videos coach.

[@pvb777]

The main question though is: Are the amounts of the carginogens high enough to cause problems or are the amounts that low that they dont cause any serious risks for your health. After all, we all are in contact with lots of carginogens every day, but that does not always causes problems because of the low levels we are exposed to.

[@jameslivesey8322]

@Grumbel Bumbel yeah just don't inhale them. it's not rocket science.

[@jameslivesey8322]

@Grumbel Bumbel have you ever used strong glue, paint, glue remover etc? Got VOCs, more fumes, not super dangerous. They're definitely not good for you, but paint drying for example is going to give you more exposure and yet there isn't evidence of it causing health problems. Furthermore, pretty much all rubbers on the market are factory tuned.

[@jameslivesey8322]

@Grumbel Bumbel but people DO use this stuff. every day. they're fine. no evidence they cause significant health problems. same with booster. ITTF classically does not want people to boost because it means less sales. a fresh tenergy will be faster and spinnier than one 4-6 months later. yes, there's been some topsheet wear, but ultimately, the boost has dried out, the edges are curling in. should I buy another tenergy for 50 pounds? or just put on less than a pound's worth of booster? or just play with a worse rubber? clearly the second is best, and ITTF does not want that. boosting allows you to control the speed, hardness, elasticity, spin etc of the rubber. it's a tool that can be used by all table tennis players. and there's no evidence it's bad for you. and it's cheap...

[@jameslivesey8322]

​@Grumbel Bumbel yes that is my logic. just as saturated fat is bad for you does not mean you should not eat it. you have to consume a lot of it over several years for it to harm you. alcohol is toxic. red meat is carcinogenic as are processed meats. many medications for chronic health problems are toxic. living in a city is especially toxic from carcinogenic and other pollution. working with wood or glass can get in your lungs. toxicity isn't a problem. it's how much of that poison you consume, and how your body can handle it. Given the volumes of carcinogenic substances people handle everyday at work and are actually fine. giving a few thin brushes every month of a substance that does not evaporate much is not going to be a health hazard. from HSDB Database they say Tridecane MAY be harmful if inhaled, ingested or exposed to skin through INDUSTRIAL USE. not tiny paintbrush use. the bases of booster are always a kind of natural oil. it will provide some boosting effect, but most of the boosting will be done with the more dangerous chemicals in the booster. these comprise 1-7 percent i think it said. so much too low quantities to be as you said, 'very dangerous'.

[@joerichardson6107]

@@jameslivesey8322 low levels are more insidious that high levels. Like was mentioned in the video the affects show up later in life. Cancer is increasing every year because we are getting low levels of toxic substances all the time from a new mattress or furniture off gassing, to a new car that was sprayed, eating food wrapped in plastics that have bpa, phalates, and other harmful compounds that get into the food , breathing air that is not clean, drinking city water, etc. You might want to lower your exposure anyway you can. There is a fantastic book called detox or die by dr sherry rogers. Babies are born with more toxins in there body than a man that lived to be 80 in the early 1900's.

[@binbinshao1575]

did you know VOC glue is not the only way for BOOST please boost rubbers with VOC free glue with proper boost VOC free oil

[@havinesyanasofficial2176]

Coach can you make a video about a tactic of long and short pimples player. I've loss to a competition because my opponent is long pimples and every time I attack , the ball goes to net. Need help!

[@lastxp]

Using to much booster will make the sponge separate from topsheet and bubbles will appear. Also rubber is only part of the story, the blade is responsible for alot of the characteristics of how the bat will respond too.

[@animaysh]

I think that it's a misconception that booster will give people more power and spin. You can achieve the same amount of spin and speed with a decent Euro or Japanese rubber and good technique. It might be that the pros have access to much more "boosted" materials but at club level you won't gain an advantage. Better to work on good form. With good form, power and spin come with.

[@benjikauth]

"Decent" (out of the box) essentially disqualifies the majority of rubbers out there. For those with good form and not so decent rubber, it will still make a significant difference. What rubbers do you use, what glue do you apply, and what is your gluing method?

[@CorentinKaisergruber]

Could you elaborate the physical approach ?

[@aha1046]

You said break the hardness of the rubber physically? What you mean , can i soften the sponge without booster ? And thank u for valuable vedios

[@markwestlake710]

I purchase hurricane 3 neo. Is it pre-glued and if so do you remove the glue before boosting? Also, how many layers of booster should be applied? Thanks

[@user-ns3si7hw1t]

Hi,coach. Could you make a video about red and black Chinese rubbers?

[@lalijojo68]

I don't know if this is the place to ask, but I hope someone can help me I am buying my first blade, and I was thinking for a yasaka sweden extra with DHS 3 hurricane on both sides (red/black). Is this right for a beginer/intermediate looping aggressive player? Thank you!

[@subhasischattopadhyay3157]

Can we use Olive oil or baby oil ( no Hazzard I believe) to the long used European rubbers to boost for spin ( make it grippy) and speedy again ...

[@nachitou1]

For h3 neo apply 1 layer directly and glue with 2 layers of strong glue?

[@lanbbialemfesofc-lanceserr431]

Coach what is tactic of long and pimples players. This really struggle me this time. Hope you answer

[@kantilaskae320]

hey so im a table tennis player playing competitively. My tip against long pimple players is that, serve a straight up ridiculously heavy flat serve with no side spin only underspin to the side with the long pimple. When they hit it back it is an easy topspin ball for you to kill. If it turns into a rally, follow the pattern of attack and chop. When you play topspin, it comes back as underpsin, so chop it back and then attack the next ball. If you are confident you can attack 2 balls in a row, then go for it.

[@goranmajnaric556]

But what about baby oil, you said its less effective, but its not harmful, is there any reason not to use it?

[@amuraval]

Coach Im playing With this bat: Blade: Joola Spirit OFF 2.times Joola Maxxx But this Bat is so expensive, can You tell me Some from the Chinese Brand that costs About 50€?

[@dela_pov]

Dear EmRatThich... In table tennis rubbers there are 3 important things, Speed, Spin and Control... and in tt blade we only have Speed and Control. Speed and Spin are easily understood and also easily felt by us when using the blade on playing game. Speed and Spin are also measured by manufacturer and added to Blade or rubbers specification. But what I'm still confusing is Control, what is actually Control meaning and how to measure it? Do the slower blades or rubbers have always good control? How to understand Control meaning in table tennis? Thanks

[@binbinshao1575]

chinese players only using chinese make tacky rubber for their forehand. Chinese rubber for example most famous rubber is Hurricane 3 doesn't matter old version or new version( neo hurricane 3）they are all tacky rubber or we said sticky rubber. way better than Japanese and European rubber doesn't matter the tennegy or something for the serve, receive serve, short to short. more easy to control the spin and return the serve back to proper location you want. that is what we talk about the CONTROL.

[@benmochen4480]

How is the booster «toxic» if there is no pictogram or image label on the product to warn people?

[@joepoeandhisgopro7379]

I think people should be able to boost their rubbers as long as there are no serious health affects. Everyone has the ability to boost their rubbers. I believe it adds more craziness and difference between each player. They are just trying to get rid of Chinese table Tennis because they are to good

[@frenchtt4761]

The women at 11:39 is the world champion in mixed doubles with Jacques secretin in 1977 no?

[@ArisWibowoCakep]

Hi coach, if the booster liquid contains harmful chemical, how about factory boosted rubbers? Since we doesnt know which chemical applies to the rubber, is it safe for our health? AFAIK, there are cheap chinese rubber labelled with "factory tuned", and smell like crazy. is it safe too?

[@manjushb2708]

@EmRatThichVo coach, after serve I mostly use backhand for play....so when the ball suddenly comes in forehand I am not able to attack it. What drills to be done to improve backhand to forehand transition and tell about the change in grip from backhand to forehand. Please reply:)

[@Nyquiiist]

Wow, this was so informative, thank you Coach!

[@kusaemutan2002]

whats the different between hurricane 3 neo the blue sponge and the orange .......................................................................................... and how to bay the orignal one

[@mohdjunaid1064]

Hi coach can you do a video regarding ma long vs Timo boll recent match and analysis why ma long lost the game when he had a good start and Timo boll match strategy playing the wide backhand against ma long.... Thank you. Have a good one. Byee

[@ludogiv8420]

Salut tu es coach où et quel classement Je te suis depuis tes 1000 abos continue comme ça !

[@pingsunday]

+Ludo merci ludo. mon niveau est n3

[@pingvincible7213]

Hi coach. What about making a tactic about short or long pimples. This is really my problem. I can't really deal with pimples.is there a tactic about pimples. Please help!

[@botao4456]

Just mix voc glue with baby oil you have a cheap booster that work reasonably well & does not shorten rubber life as much as true booster.

[@Xiompro]

Butterfly optimazer one is good but it does not sell .

[@r.lihuak]

Thanks, it answers my question

[@tuantrongao8335]

Good video, do you think I should use booster on DHS Hurricane Neo 3? I am very offensive player, or I dont need to. Btw. could you please make a video about where to hit the ball?

[@benjikauth]

The non-neo Hurricane 3 tends to be better for about 3 layers of booster. For neo, try just 1 and see how you like it. Let the first layer dry longer than the next two and let the sheet uncurl enough so it stays glued to the bat. Falco Tempo Long is one that seems to be popular in my part of the world. Depending on where you are at you may have better access to other brands like Haifu seamoon or dolphin. When you get the click, you'll understand how others are getting such performance. Look for the fat sponges on bats and listen for the click. You'll see how many are tuning the sponge.

[@yrod6157]

Dear EmRaThich, I am 13 and I have been playing table tennis for about a year. I am a forehand dominant player and have been using xiom vega asia rubber on both forehand and backhand. I need some advice on whether or not to switch to chinese rubber on the forehand. I base my game on the forehand loop and have somewhat decent footwork, but i struggle with backhand consistency away from the table and countering. But I lack balance and try to kill every shot and miss 40% of the time and I am often out of position. I mainly come here because I want to know if i should switch to tacky rubber or stay with tensor rubbers. I can send you footage of my matches if you want. PLEASE HELP ME!!!

[@canicetang8837]

+Y Rod Since you have only played table tennis for one year. So your tactics are pretty much elementary and certainly many areas to be improved on. But before I even go on. May I asked who choose the equipment for you? Would that be just yourself or someone recommended it for you? Also may I ask what kind of blade you are playing with? I could see a basic problem with rubber choices right away. Xiom Vega Asia rubber are 'Hard' European Rubbers. Certainly no one would risk their life putting hard rubber on their backhand. Even with backhand dominant players, that would be a sure way to lose every point. Why? It is simple, most players are likely forehand dominant with varying degrees of backhand attack. Forgive me to put this very bluntly. Hard rubbers are not designed for players with lack of techniques and experiences for table tennis players. From what I see, it is rated as medium fast on both speed and spin and medium in control. Xiom Vega Asia also has an extra catapult rubber feature that gives extra speed and spin. If you are hitting everything hard without proper techniques, the ball will be spraying out of the orbit before any hope of landing on the table. Since backhand is mainly use for defensive purposes, your backhand rubber should be soft or at most, medium soft. Also hard rubbers are heavy, they are design for those advanced players using their 'forehands' ONLY. Since they have great techniques, positioning and early preparations, they can impart extra power generating the catapult effect of the arc with extra spin along with the control of the sponge the rubber is known for. Any beginners either having wrong timing, footwork, positioning and so on would simply spray the ball everywhere as you stated earlier. This is something you can do honestly for yourself - A detailed 'self-critique' of your own matches. You don't need a coach but to answer yourself carefully so you can learn. 1. Look at one of your entire filmed match. 2. Now go back and playing each point. Stop playing your tape. 3. Go back again and playing it in 'slow motion'. This time: a. Look at what you did whether you are serving or receiving. b. Write down what your 'strategy' of what you want to do, comparing to what your opponent did. c. What is the outcome of that 'single' point, whether you win or lose. 4. Do that for every single point in that set, then for the entire match. You should now seeing a definite 'pattern' of the following: 1. What you did well or not so well. 2. Do I play well to force mistakes on others? Or others on me? 3. Did I play the right strategy but still miss? Or I got it all wrong? Or I got lucky? Maybe a net ball or edge ball went against me? Once you see the same mistakes over and over again. You will need to make plan to change and turning it around. Of course, you can use a coach (if you can afford to pay), better skilled hitting partners, robots, watching videos, and following a particular player as a role model. But it is only you who can make this happen because no one will. You are still young so lots of your bad habits can be changed before they quickly set. By all means, I will ask a qualified coach to get a paddle set-up that suits your game, as well as working on all your fundamentals before even asking for a Chinese Style tacky hard rubber. Remember, remove your hard backhand rubber right away! It is no good for anyone.

[@yrod6157]

Hello Canice Tang, Thank you very much for your constructive criticism i appreciate it and to answer your question on my equipment i will say this. My equipment has been recommended by an experienced player, and on my backhand it is 1.9 and forehand it is max. But I do agree that my backhand is too fast and I make lots of unforced errors and the first time it was max so I asked for something slower and so he decreased it to 1.9 but still to fast. My blade is DHS power G7. What would you recommend on the backhand and forehand. Are the andro rubbers any good? By the way you seem like a very good player how long have you been playing?

[@canicetang8837]

Hello Y Rod I have played table tennis since I was 5 years old. Not very seriously off and on for about 30 years after when I focused on other sports. I had taken it a bit more seriously in a club and amateur/ranking tournament environments for about 10 years and was using a hand me down 25 years old pre-assembled paddle until I finally decided to spending good money to get my custom paddle two years ago. I am a Chinese Penholder who plays a hybrid of Liu Guoliang, Ma Lin, Xu Xin, Wong Chun-Ting and Wang Hao. So I played in the old days from the ancient ITTF rules and adjusted to the modern games. My first custom paddle is a Yasaka Ma Lin Soft Carbon with Nittaku Fastarc G-1 Max Sponge on the forehand side with Yasaka Razka X Soft Max Sponge on my backhand. Just recently, I bought my second custom paddle, which is a Stiga Carbonado 190 Chinese Penhold with the same Nittaku Fastarc G-1 on my forehand and Tibhar Evolution FX-S 2.1mm sponge on the backhand. As well, I am a tournament umpire with the sport just below the national level. As for my playing style, I am an all-around style with focus on percentage offensive attack, aggressive defending in close or from distance with emphasis on positioning. Since you have only played for a year. Do you have a coach (or not)? Playing in a club or recreationally? Sometimes for an inexperienced player to the sport, it is good to take advice from an experienced player. I am sure that player meant well, but somehow, his/her decision is based on his/her own experience and definitely not your own. For a beginner who is learning all the basics and fundamentals. You really want an all-around control blade like the Coach said. Your DHS Power G7 blade is 'not' a beginners blade. The characteristic of this blade is designed for quick ball rebound and fast attacks. Also 7 ply construction is a bit too heavy. Unless you can be at an advanced player level, anytime you hit too early or late due to your lack of technique (especially with your kill shots for everything, with extra heavy blade and rubbers combinations will no doubt leaving you tired), adding with the super fast hard rubbers on 'both' side. No wonder hardly any balls will be on the table. Most advanced players will have problems with a fast blade and fast rubber combination, which equals 'out of control'. With a beginner like yourself, your paddle is no different than picking up a plastic or sandpaper paddle. That's a complete nightmare for someone like you. Just remember, in Table Tennis, your 'Power' generated from 'Speed' and 'Spin' is absolutely nothing without 'Control'. If you are serious about the game. Then my first suggestion is to practise everything because you have to handle all the shots: 1. Serves: Different types of long and short serves. Various styles with different spins. 2. Receives: Short and long pushes, surprising attacking second ball, reading of the spins and correct zone placements on the table. 3. Short play: Forehand and backhand flips or flip-kills, short-short, under-spin or side-spin swipes, smashes, drop shots and other touch plays. 4. Short attacking and defending game: Short power loop kills or drives (on both sides), quick chop blocks (both sides), Offensive and defensive loops with maximum spins, forehand or backhand close chops. 5. Mid distance table game: Power offensive or defensive loops, chops, drives, extreme side-spin underhand shots, defensive lobs, Counter forehand and backhand loops. 6. Long distance game: Defensive and aggressive lobs, long countering loops and drives. Positioning is the key. Your awareness of your position anytime on the table tennis court will be your success and failure. Also working on your footwork fundamentals so you can get to the shots, but also in perfect balance. Andro is a decent brand. But what you really needed is a 'balanced' blade with good control and feel. Also have a much 'softer' rubber to give you the control you needed to properly making your shots. Your confidence will increase when you have consistency in your overall game. If you are whacking the ball and only winning 5 points at most, then why would you continue to play like that if you don't want to learn how to play better? Take it slow and easy. Learn your fundamentals, get your technique right, along with your footwork. Then you can learn about proper strategies. Think of your paddle is just an extension of your hand. Learning of the control and proper use of 'spin' are the basic step. With proper 'form' and the correct techique, then you can add 'power' and 'speed' to quickly improve your game. What you are doing right now is modelling an advanced player's equipment with beginner's skills. This is the worst combination in Table Tennis, especially when you are learning. Let's take a few steps back, go right at the beginning. Learn the strokes properly with a balanced set up on your paddle, make sure you keep practise and learning the right way. This is the only way you can truly enjoy the game and also improve a lot faster than now. Good Luck!

[@yrod6157]

Dear Canice, Thank you for some more good points i will practice all of these. Yes, I do have a coach who has taught me most of the basics, and he also recommended to me the xiom rubber i use. Also, I have the Darker Hinoki 7P-2A it is a much better more controlled blade, is this a good do you think, should I switch blades? And i looked at Rasant Beat... kzbin.info/www/bejne/l5qyq4OImLSqepI, it seemed like a forgiving rubber. I also noticed a lot of people recommended it for the backhand. So do you think Andro Rasant Beat 1.9 would be a good backhand rubber? And would Darker Hinoki 7P-2A be a better choice?

[@yrod6157]

P.S. you can email me( if it's easier) at [e-mail]

[@javierromanjimenez1273]

How can I improve my backhand topspin? It's very slow and hasn't got spin

[@chasefire-o1n]

1. use mainly your wriste to accelerate 2. timing of this acceleeration should be exactly shortly before you hit the ball so that means no long movemont with you underarm. 3 hit the ball in front of your body 4. brush the ball dont smash him 5. there are different variations of top spins as you know, i prefer a quick backhand topspin right after the ball bounces from the table so teh ball has no much time to get a lot of spin. - in that case the ball may have under spin or sidespin, but that doesnt really matter, brush directly with the short movement. the direction should be to your head.

[@ultramagneticsago6329]

Hey there coach, our trainor here recommended the DHS Hurricane 3-50 which is softer and more elastic than the Neo version, do you agree? I use Xiom vega pro as a blade. Tenergy 05 BH H3 Neo FH

[@raymondchan3587]

Don't try any DHS H3 harder than 40, you simply not strong enough to engage the sponge. Even top players like Ma Long & Xu Xin, then all use 40 degree hardness.

[@richardsimons1234]

I dont understand. Why the different treatment of boosting based on before or after it comes out from factory? I only see this benefiting highly sponsored/connected players who can ask for it to be done from manufacturers, whilst non-sponsored are barred from using any boosted rubbers. edit: Im dumb.....I didnt watch till the end

[@sombasu]

thank you very much for this informative article.

[@andyzhaott]

What happens when you put a booster on an already bouncy rubber (Tenergy)?

[@davehess1982]

Andy Zhao it breaks

[@peterenis5334]

I did it, it becomes too fast too uncontrolable. Its not necessary on most european rubbers. On D09C its pretty insane tho

[@Soper79]

great video. 9:25 I think it's a little unfair though to say or insinuate that only Chinese players boost. I would venture to say that 95% of all pros, Chinese, European, etc. all boost. IMO it's dumb that the ITTF says you can't boost on your own but you certainly can buy rubbers twice as expensive that come boosted from the factory. ITTF should just legalize booster and be done with it.

[@belovingndfree]

very true! you show good mental health!

[@soldierofscience2888]

Or ban it so everyone is on the same playing field. Being a video game player let me give you a comparison. Battlefield 4 you have very fast modern weapons. Battlefield 1 you have World war 1 weapons which were much slower. But since everyone is using the same thing, the competition is equal no matter what your tool happens to be.

[@pitthefrit6292]

thank you very much for this!🏓

[@boozi_tv7271]

Is the rubber no good after the 2-3 week boost? Or can you just reboots over and over

[@blueheart9873]

It stays for about 2 months max. After that you'll have to boost again, but everytime you have to do a tiny bit less

[@BratGera]

Thanks for video! How often in need to re-glue chinese rubber like dhs hurricane neo 3 ?

[@raymondchan3587]

Neo 3 is not as good as the normal H3. They were actually different rubbers.

[@ShadowCooper77]

Great video. But the rule about boosters is dumb. What is the difference if it is "factory-boosted" or if you boost it yourself? So I can't boost rubbers made by other people but I can boost my own rubber? What logic does that make? It would make much more sense if it wasn't allowed to be factory-boosted either. Also other rules like requiring pips on the rubber topsheet (pips in or pips out), and having to use specific materials for racket coverings.

[@propoolguru352]

thank you so much.. very imformative

[@vizzo7]

I still don't understand what is the difference between boosting a hard rubber and using a tensor rubber which is hard. according to some reviews in tabletennisdb tibhar mx-p or mx-s are hard tensor rubbers as well as the new coming tensor rubbers from yasaka. so why would you like to do all the effort to boost a hard rubber and also risking to have an illegal racket instead of buying a hard tensor rubber? Is the effect of the booster not too make the sponge soft?

[@pingsunday]

+Viz muñiz tensor rubber has a limit in hardness. ten05 is the most successful from the japanese engineer. you cant add too much tensor otherwise the rubber breaks. another approach is boost the hard rubber. cheaper. last longer. harder.

[@pingsunday]

+Viz muñiz mx-p is only about 38 39 degree in chinese scale. real chinese is 40-42-43.

[@canicetang8837]

Tibhar Evolution MX-P and MX-S are what you called medium-hard rubber at about 46 - 47 degree in European Scale. Most Chinese Hard Rubber are at least 50+. That's the difference. Tibhar rubbers are tensor rubbers. They are already stretched similar to Tenergy (300% stretched from their previous rubbers, such as the Sriver). They will break if you boost them.

[@vizzo7]

but according to you chinese player prefer to buy 39 degrees and boost it so it gets softer. so at the end you end up with an mx-p like rubber

[@canicetang8837]

MX-P has a spring sponge similar to the Tenergy series. The boosted sponge is even softer so the catapult effect is much lower to give them the control. Remember, booster stretches both rubber and the sponge so the sponge thickness decreases. That's the difference. Hard Chinese Rubber is a bit higher than the MX-P because they are at least 40+ (50+ in the European scale). So even though the boosted hardness will be softened to a degree or two higher than the MX-P. But it is a far different rubber in chemical composition than the original cut MX-P rubber.

[@glorybackhk]

what is the difference of 39 degree hardness rubber with the 41 degree boostered rubber?

[@canicetang8837]

Here is a rough guideline about rubbers and their hardness degree in a nutshell: 1. 'Soft' rubbers (including short and long pips) will generally have a degree hardness anywhere between 35 to about 42. 2. 'Medium' rubbers will have from about 42 to 47.5. 3. 'Medium-Hard' rubbers will be from around 47.5 to about 50. 4. 'Hard' rubbers will be anything exceeding 50. All of my number is according to 'European degree of hardness'. If you want the 'Chinese degree of hardness', you can simply minus 10 from European ones. For 'each' degree of increase (decrease) hardness in the rubber, the characteristic of increase (decrease) in speed and spin and decrease (increase) in control, also the rubber will naturally get heavier (lighter). Most of the ratings are done either in 1. "Percentage out of 100", or 2. "Ratings out of 10". You 'only' boost 'hard rubber' because any other type of softer degree hardness rubbers would simply melt the sponge altogether and making them mushy. When the hard rubber of 50 degree hardness is getting boosted, the chemical reaction of the booster with the sponge allowed it to expand by 20 to 30% after the treatment. To make my explanations easier. Let's say you want to boost a Chinese Hard Rubber with the following descriptions: 1. It has 50 degrees of hardness. (European Scale or '40' in Chinese Scale). 2. The uncut weight is 100 grams with the cut weight of 80 grams (before boosting) 3. It has the sponge thickness of 1.9 mm After the boosting through chemical treatment to the sponge. You are taking the same measurements: 1. Assuming the boosting expanded the rubber by 20%. Your new cut weight would be now 64 grams, which is 16 grams 'lighter'. 2. Since both the rubber and sponge was stretched significantly. The hardness should now be around 46 in European Scale, or 36 in Chinese Scale. It will no longer be hard, but a boosted 'Medium-Hard' rubber to give you more control you are looking for. 3. The sponge thickness would be about 1.5 to 1.6 mm. Essentially, the boosted rubber on the paddle would be: 1. Much lighter for more accuracy, flexibility in shot selections, much easier to control, and a lot less stress on your muscles and joints. 2. The thinner sponge will have less 'catapult' effect and your blade with give you greater control that allows more consistency of your ball on the table. 3. The boosting stretches also on the rubber side, but the 'tacky' quality of the Chinese rubber remain for speed and spin. Although it is now 'softer', but both remaining the 'same'. If you are adding up everything altogether. Boosting increases control without sacrificing speed and spin. As well your paddle is much, much lighter for even better control. Psychologically, for just a tournament. You have all three components in your equipment at their maximum. With the extraordinary skills of the Chinese A team players from their outstanding fundamentals, plus the booster rubber with all the benefits. It is simply an unbeatable combination indeed.

[@glorybackhk]

Canice Tang: thank you, this guideline is really useful.

[@NghiaNguyen-j7f]

Wow ! Thanks a lot 👍👏u give me knowledge about tabletennis

[@pingsunday]

It's my pleasure

[@brahms008]

I've just boosted a three nine super 999 T-1. Amazing with Seamon or Lidu. I feel like Kong Linghui with my KLHS blade. Even with plastic ball it's nice to play with.

[@wb6012]

Is Revolution 3 glue allowed by ITTF?

[@Oueax]

Yes. Revo3 is VOC free and perfeclty suitable. It's a favorable option because the glue itself can add a little bit bounce to the rubber. Add 1 layer to the blade and rubber then if you want more, add 1 layer more. Be patient and try to adapt to your equipment. Revo3 glue is not a magical thing, it won't make your game better so don't overdo gluing, you're fine with 2+2 layers.

[@SrizyGaming]

Can someone please help me. Im fairly new at table tennis and have ultimately been player for about a year and just for fun. Before that i have never played table tennis in my life maybe like once or twice. So my problem is i dont know how to do a reverse backhand flick or smash, im a penhold player, i know all the basics like serving with backspin sidespin and underspin and would say im decent at serving. Same with smashing i have a lot of forehand power but when i play shakehand (for fun) i can backhand flick and know where the contact point is and the technique but with penhold i just dont know how to do it. Also dont know the Japanese way, so i need some tips for using back hand on penhold. Also im from the UK so penhold is not very common. Thank You for any help

[@canicetang8837]

SrizyGaming I am a lifelong 'Penholder' so it is pretty rare to speak to another player with similar style. The Japanese Penhold style is almost like the traditional Chinese Penhold with only one rubber on the forehand due to the thickness of the cork blade and the handle made it impossible to use the other side for the backhand anyhow. There are some helpful videos on KZbin. In particular with still the best in RPB in Wang Hao. The technique of the backhand 'Banana Flick' is very similar to the Shakehand style. The key is the timing, which gives penhold fits. You need to judge the bounce of the ball and to correctly 'angle' the contact point on the paddle. This is by far the most difficult. Also the preparation technique as to bend and use your wrist, giving yourself the room you need to execute the stroke effectively and of course the footwork are the key. Another key is to use various force on your grip with your fingers to give you the direction of the shots you wanted to go. This takes time but you will eventually getting there. You might want to watch videos of Wong Chun Ting, who is the second best Penhold player behind Xu Xin and probably has the best RPB at the moment. If you are pretty good at blocking, the various backhand loops, RPB and close play like the Banana flicks are just the various version of the complete stroke. Just as your blocking is a limited motion where the locking of your wrist and arm literally 'cushioning' the ball. With the Penhold style, you can do much, much more in terms of variety and tactics that would be next to impossible with the Shakehand grip. The natural advantage of the Penhold is the near vertical at the table which is great for attacking at both wings. What you can do is also introduce other plays where you can turn an ordinary defensive plays into instant offensive shots which were popular in the 1970s and the 1980s but somewhat neglected in today's table tennis. You can try a few and I will bet it would be a nice surprise. 1. The high to low offensive chop. Rather than sometimes doing flips on either side with short and high returns from your opponent. Even if the ball is a bit further back such as just about mid table. Contact the ball at the highest ball chopping fast angling down. The ball will go from high to low fast at an angle towards the back of the table. It will definitely jamming your opponents who is expecting a short return. Also the backspin will not give those who backed enough to make a proper return. Therefore the quality of the return would be weak, allow you the time and space for the next ball attack. 2. Offensive blocks. This would be more on the backhand. It was made famous with Liu Quolaing. Also Ma Lin and Wang Hao would use this technique to win out-right points. The key is the timing and putting additional side spin to make the ball swerve. It is really effective when you are blocking heavy loop from their middle to their backhand attacks. What you are looking for is the 'open' sides so once the ball hits on their forehand open side. It will kick-out and spinning away even further. Even those who have quick feet would be tough to retrieve them. 3. For smashing with Penholders. It would be very similar to the Shakehand style. There is a bit of difference in the philosophy though. Some players like Ma Lin, would actually not only flip his paddle to the backhand rubber (which is the Tensor rubber side). This is more consistent and gives more catapult power. But he also changed to a shakehand grip for more consistency. The reason to change to shakehand is pretty obvious, as the penhold hampered the smashing ability, in particular with sky high lobs. Also for practical purposes, backhand smashes are extremely awkward in Table Tennis and they are not at all useful. It is far better to get yourself in a ready position and keep smashing away with your forehand. 4. The 'Strawberry' Flip. This is the total opposite to the 'Banana Flip' on the backhand side by using counterclocking your wrist on the 'forehand' side, resulting the extreme side spin right curving to the diagonal side with a ton of swerves. There are a ton of fun you can do with this shot. He Zhiwen is famous doing his backhand serves (lefty penholder) to the diagonal side swerving away. The opponent had to counter with a weak return. He just had all day to put it into the open side for an easy winner. Also on the serve receive on the short forehand side, you can do the same to extreme under and sidespins to catch the opponent off guard. Due to the weaker return off the backhand, penholders should not engage in distance looping on their backhand unless you have excellent technique. It is far better off to loop at backhand distance even with counter forehand loops or backhand defensive lobs if you are skilled. Good luck!

[@irazib123]

Thanks a lot coach!!!! I have very curiosity about these things. thanks a lot for clearing them. I play for fun, and do not have interest in these things anymore. Only power from the ground is more then enough for me if I get to do it correctly.....if I could play a forehand shot like ML(no matter about speed, spin or placement just a shadow copy) I would think I have learned TT!!! ha...ha...

[@baozoubusi4263]

Even if you are fine with using booster, don't even think that it will help you to win. It can probably help you increase you chance by 5% and the rest is just how good you are

[@KilogrammeKG]

Où entraînes tu en France ?

[@duckgoduckgo]

so coach, should i still use chinese rubber if i dont use booster?

[@canicetang8837]

There are different Chinese Rubber with varying degrees of hardness. You really have to be careful and do your research properly. Just like the normal European and Japanese style Rubbers, they can be all over the place. You can of course use the hard Chinese rubber, but you must have great techniques. The problem of not using booster on the hard Chinese rubber simply would be your control. Definitely you will have the speed and the spin, but your consistency of your shots, especially those distance hard drives, loops and anything powerful away from the table would be all over the place. The hard sponge simply catapults the ball away without the time to dwell for a fraction to give you the 'control' you needed to put the ball safely on the table. This is the precise reason of why the Chinese Team using the booster. Also if you are playing with the regular cut rubber. It would be at least 20 to 30% heavier. The total weight of your paddle (rubbers plus the blade) is crucial for your shots, in particular with your accuracy. Your own muscles and joints' flexibility are directly related to the weight of your paddle. Also your psychological confidences increase at the same time. No one likes to carry a brick to play. Especially the longer you hold a heavier paddle, the quicker you will be fatigued. So that is an important consideration as well. With the speed of modern table tennis, a couple of grams could be the difference between winning and losing.

[@duckgoduckgo]

those are fair points to consider. i personally feel like chinese rubbers have more control, since they have the tackiness factor that the euro rubbers dont have. in fact im more confident with long distance strokes when i m using chinese rubber. it feels like all of my shots will go in. but im thinking of changing to euro rubber though, since im too lazy to boost haha.

[@canicetang8837]

Problems with the 'tackiness' factor of the Chinese rubber is that the tacky characteristics goes away quite quickly even with the topsheet protector. Once the tacky feeling is gone, then you are losing control on your mid and long distance loops. Since DHS provides the forehand rubbers for the Chinese team, they change them often - something amateur players cannot afford obviously.

[@duckgoduckgo]

my dhs is still tacky tho haha. maybe its the sweat that gets to it or the water that i clean it with. but i do know what you mean. i got a sheet before and it lasted only a few weeks before losing any tackiness. i guess dhs has a control problem with their sheets. they cant put out consistent batches out. all the more reason to go to euro rubbers. but i cant just leave chinese rubbers behind, especially since it offers so much advantages in short game and 3rd ball attacking.

[@canicetang8837]

The tackiness is never the 'control' problem with the DHS National but it is inherent in pretty much all of them. The rubber sheet is chemically treated on the surface to have the tacky surface. But they will go away quickly. As you will notice that the 'stinky' smell is not present anymore. That's the tell-tale sign. Most of the new ones literally can get the ball 'sticking' to the rubber surface upside down at least 6 feet from the table surface until it loses the grip.

[@CHEN-fd2ir]

U have a club in France? I thought u were in Vietnam...

[@desert1987]

CHEN ever heard of migration

[@CHEN-fd2ir]

Nope, I've heard of immigration.

[@raymondchan3587]

Seems like a Fillipino

[@kristofbaumann8180]

Magyarok? 1:27

[@rickomarsellino5812]

hey coach, im ricko 18 years old from indonesian amateur player(forehand dominant player),i have been playing with long pips on backhand for over 4 years, and i want to change it with short pips because i also like an agressive attack with my backhand, please tell me coach what is advantage using long pips and short pips , also i want to know technique using a short pips in detail and the best set up for my blade (adidas challenge off+,stiga power lt on forehand)ty coach im very blessed with your coaching video overall

[@yusriartramli2781]

Booster work on chinese rubber only or euro rubber as well ?

[@gold9994]

For euro rubbers, it would be uncontrollable because they already produce enough spins and speed. Problem with hurricane 3 is that, it's absolutely unplayable wothout the booster (most of chinese pros have to use boosters, the rubber is really really bad without boosters, with boosters it's pretty similar to dignics5, but with slightly better spin and slightly lower speed). My recommendation is, if you hav ethe money, better to buy dignics, rather than h3, because it's just easier to maintain and easier to play with.

[@peterenis5334]

@@gold9994 D09C with falco long is insane :)

[@josipX]

Excellent video!

[@hungpham817]

Mình có nên booster miếng H8 không nhỉ?

[@pingsunday]

Co chu. Co khac biet rat lon

[@allaboutricky3526]

Hello , emratthich I have a dhs national rubber I boost it with the seamoon booster. When the first time I use it , it has a very good feeling . But now , after usage for 4 weeks, it has less feeling ... I want to boost it again , so the rubber have more feeling But after I saw your video I hesitate to boost my rubber again Can you tell me must I boost it again or not??

[@davehess1982]

AllAbout RICKY Did you see the video? Or you have learning problems?

[@benjikauth]

Of course you have to boost it again if you want the same characteristics and game play style. Get a mask and boost Chinese rubber or don't and buy tension rubber like Tenergy for similar play.

[@matiasd.s.g5440]

Oh nice Video Coach!

[@lenaschneider5765]

So the Million Dollar question is: if i don't boost which rubber do i take? A DHS Neo Version or a Tenergy??

[@benjikauth]

Definitely Tenergy. Tenergy is a tension rubber. Hurricane is not unless boosted.

[@alexeykan7455]

Johnsons&Johnsons baby oil works pretty well as a booster. It's absolutely safe (even for child's health as we can get from the name:)) and much cheaper than most of that chemical stuff made by Haifu and Falco

[@samszeto1]

how to apply the baby oil?

[@Kepalas89]

Great vid! So chinese rubbers not worth buying, without planning to boost?

[@18yearsoldnot]

I think European rubbers are also boosted but not as much because the sponges are more porous and soft so boosting is not as beneficial

[@antiporfavor]

17:45 "Oh, shit!"

[@wilbertsuryajaya5688]

i was playing table tennis and i saw this one due take out his rubber and attached it to his blade he has been taking off and reattaching the rubber a lot but now i know

[@domzmusic3521]

Hey another question about the rules Now I am a Beginner to intermediate player what if i accidentally hit the ball with my fingers holding the racket does the game continue or point to opponent also what do you think about this bat for a beginner to intermediate player allegro.pl/stiga-bounce-control-3-rekietka-tenisowa-paletka-i6148599457.html

[@tommyreyes7033]

The player is 90% table tennis technique. Table tennis paddles 10% Perfect Basics goes a long way.

[@peachcat2812]

lol i saw my coach boosting in front of my eyes

[@orionilian]

The boosters are not legal . Why the manufacturers offer and sell them ???

[@TuanNguyen-xm5cs]

hey PingSunday EmRatThich , does the haifu oil have smell

[@TuanNguyen-xm5cs]

Why ittf dont let the player glueing their table tennis rubber in front of the referee who check the racket ??? player must take the rubber out from the package to glue

[@gold9994]

Because it will expand the rubber also, not only the foam that's the concern for ittf.

[@TuanNguyen-xm5cs]

@@gold9994 but it will be easier to check the VOC gas

[@gold9994]

@@TuanNguyen-xm5cs not really, because for now, players didn't boost themselves anymore. It came pre boosted form the factory (when you're malong, you can ask the factory to boost your foam before glueing it with the rubber). For ittf, this is completely legal (the vocs are for cancer prevention). However, one thing really confused me: why can't dhs produce better foam? They have all the money and resources in the world, and can't reproduce dignics foam? Why should rely in boosters (that can endanger athlete's health).

[@canicetang8837]

Timo Boll is one of the biggest critic of the booster because it gave the players substantial advantage of the speed and spin. There are videos on youtube explaining the process of boosting. The expansion of the sponge along with the stretching of the rubber top is absolutely noticeable with the rubber actually 20 to 30% larger than the original size. Other than the smell, the end rubber lettering is a dead giveaway when the booster is being used along with the sponge being chemically altered. ITTF should have a no boosting policy to ensure fair and equal playing field where only the skills of the players will make the difference of the outcome on their matches.

[@pliuya]

Ittf should preassemble the same racket and rubber so that players could have a "fair" game.

[@canicetang8837]

You can't. Rubbers are different and so are the blades. An offensive player cannot play the same as the defensive players. The only "fair" way where the same racket can be used for all players are the 'sandpaper' paddle. No sponge and short pimple. You can have minimum spins but that's about it. Defensive and offensive plays are possible. There is a 'World Championship of Ping Pong' every year in London. Top 50 players are the top seed but no one from the top 20 are interested.

[@-danR]

Sandpaper isn't necessary. What I would mandate would be a strict requirement that all surfaces consist of a 1 mm _flat_ sheet of natural latex, untreated in any way. It's impossible, under those circumstances to gain any advantage from 'boosting, and I speak from experience because I actually made such a racquet in the 70's and it was _incredibly_ fast, with a spin characteristic similar to that of spin-pips. (Of course, it wasn't legal, but that wasn't the point; it was an experiment). You could counter-drive with it, but not counter-loop. It had very few gears, but the touch and feel of hitting the ball was amazing, so it's simply a matter of learning the feel of it, which takes a few hours. For choppers, they would need only put the covering on a thinner blade, with a wood selected having high damping resonance. They could still smash and pick-hit suitable balls.

[@guywhodoesstuff1798]

Or we can make booster legal, not really a difficult choice.

[@joshuamiedema5074]

Boosted rubber is similar to tensor rubber so every one would use expensive tensor rubber if that were to happen

[@MrPiiing]

French subtile please for all vidéo 😉 thanks

[@pingsunday]

Ca y est.

[@austinemmons2647]

Nice research video

[@chricet]

with or without booster chinese players will still dominate table tennis.

[@mrjek4071]

Nope. They will lost

[@dawidmikan2394]

Well today we have VOC-Free boosters and speedglues.

[@agz4370]

Good job with this video. But i dont think boosters will be stopped. Chinese will always find a way

[@Bruno-br7lz]

17:45

[@TableTennis-Man]

Dont worry about health. Its very minute and no data to support. Vs eating Junk food.

[@attor90]

Hi Coach. What is your nationality? it would be awesome if u be my coach :D

[@erdepurevdorj]

Very good

[@pliuya]

I am a TT fan. To me, boosting the rubber or not is a matter of bugget. I have to change rubber every two months and cannot afford 40,50 bucks rubber. Chinese rubber costs less than 15 bucks and feels same as expensive one. No one feels shame if win by using tenergy. As for the health issue, I use my garage.

[@kdgr]

you are the boss...you are the boss! ;-)

[@The.N3979]

Your content is great, but I think you need to cite the info that u get, and 1 more thing, no offense, but I think you need to work on your pronunciation. Great work anyway. Thanks for the info.

[@zoyuu]

U put a lot of effort in your videos do u get paid enough?

[@mohdjunaid1064]

Hi coach

[@Ahowardsky]

Organizers should provide standard rackets for players to use. Not only safer but also make the game more interesting. Especially to see Chinese players without all of their tricks in equipment.

[@Maikl2811]

I think booster is imagination.. Training Training Training.... No way out..

[@syatopascua5183]

From🇵🇭

[@jamessanchez9301]

Rip speed glue users

[@isiraarchana5079]

Means chinese literally cheat ?

[@gold9994]

Used to. Especially pre tenergy, almost all players from any countries boost their rubber. Now it came pre boosted from the factory, which is completely legal. The point of boosting/not boosting is to limit the expansion of the top rubber. This is why boosting yourself is not allowed. Preboost will boost the sponge separately then assembling it after achieving the desired hardness.