BSA 350 cc Model L engine circa 1930 strip & rebuild 8 Absent bearing spacer & crankcases discussed.

With the crank work done, it was time to consider the components it runs in to make up the bottom end of the engine. It would seem a rather vital spacer from between the drive side main bearings has been missing for quite a long time - I certainly saw no sign of one, that's for sure!

[@bsa_brummie7775]

Always interesting that you discuss what you have found by witness marks and damage caused over many years. Then suggest the correct fix to put right. 👍

[@colinmartin2921]

Wow. It is lucky that the main bearing housing is not completely trashed.

[@davefrench3608]

Great detective work as always. No wonder that ball bearing failed with that extra side load

[@shug831]

You never have end load on a roller bearing, surprised it didn't breakup. The spacer may be a different size depending on the location of the inner race of the roller assembly. You could use the inner race of the worn out ball bearing and machine it down to size. I know it's hardened but modern ceramic tips can face them off nicely.

[@norsehall309]

G'day Paul, you would make a good Detective finding past misgivings, with your repairs the motor will probably be running in another 100 years, if you clean up that motor you might make the rest of the Bessa look bad, just kidding, cheers mate, Neil 🤠.

[@gregcampbell8888]

Great work Paul!

[@paulhenshaw4514]

Thanks!

[@timothylong1857]

Amazing work paul I think your spot on with where the engine needs to be it’s better to have something that works ! It is a bit like a mechanical archeological dig !

[@gordonsuddery4635]

Great workmanship as usual Paul lovely video and information, my best wishes to you from the Philippines ❤️💪👍😉😀😁🏁🏍️🛺🐑🇵🇭🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿

[@paulhenshaw4514]

Thank you very much!

[@bananabrooks3836]

6305, thats a result!

[@adammedyna2365]

Thanks!

[@paulhenshaw4514]

Thank you very much indeed!

[@keithwilson1408]

Always an education watching you. Thanks Paul

[@SempreGumby]

Crikey! Again!

[@lsdt01]

Paul, just a thought. Why not replace the single ball race with a sealed for life version? It would probably stand up to the crankcase heat and pressure. If you think not, you could simply remove the inner seal. The outer seal surely would provide a better seal than the usual felt or leather.

[@hermangibbs8163]

Very good sir.

[@frankmarkovcijr5459]

Amazing how people think they know what they are doing but don't.

[@pw601]

It's called the Dunning - Kruger Effect. Some one with a little learning and great confidence. They are unaware that their level of knowledge is inadequate for the job in hand. To quote Harry Callaghan " A man has got to know his limitations". Thank goodness for the Paul's of this world.

[@neilmcintosh1200]

Nothing like keeping your eyes open. Presumably the crank positive location is to the timing side.

[@whalesong999]

Ha, I was thinking its location was determined by being drawn up to the drive side ball bearing. Paul will probably have decisive words on that soon.

[@philrulon]

That major side load on the outer ball bearing is likely responsible for the wear on it. The broken boss on the outside of the timing side case might also be a candidate for some welding repair as well. Not strictly necessary I suppose, but something to consider.

[@whalesong999]

With the appropriate spacer for the inner races, perhaps that will determine how much that outer ball race is set free from being clamped up against itself.

[@baronlowie]

That's a bad miss by the previous builder of that engine.

[@grateberk6435]

Hope the casings are not too badly damaged.

[@williamgould2855]

in ten. twenty. ninety ? years a truck .car or motorbike engine can have had quite a few ten thumbed er. engineers ? working on it

[@robertboswell33]

Is there a seal of some kind behind the drive sprocket ?

[@paulhenshaw4514]

There was no evidence of anything, but a lot of alloy has been rubbed away in the area. A sealed bearing with the inner seal removed should sort it, though.