PECO 3 WAY POINTS & MP10 POINT MOTORS at Chadwick Model Railway | 218.

[@martinworrall5888]

Easy as that haha of course it is Charlie, no problem at all 😢

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

If you’re talking about soldering, would you like a video on it? Regards Charlie.

[@martinworrall5888]

@@ChadwickModelRailway haha no Charlie, it’s understanding the wiring in the points, soldering I am ok with. Just carry with what you are doing, I haven’t cot a layout I just enjoy and impressed with your knowledge of all things about model trains.

[@chrishurley9861]

Another good video, Charlie. Actually, I for one would appreciate a session on soldering in the context of creating good contact with track. Hope you can fit it in sometime.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

@@chrishurley9861 it will be a pleasure Chris. Regards, Charlie.

[@Kim_Thomas]

@@ChadwickModelRailway I would. Of course I'm also working in N Gauge

[@AngelusGB]

‘the destructions.’ That made my day! I’ve been saying that for years that it’s all I can call them now. Thank you! It’s been a rough one. I shall now continue watching your video. I’m still learning that I admit my mind melted a little at a three way point! Watching a pro (I have around 4 of you in my lists / so I don’t overwhelm!) is incredibly helpful. It enables me to learn all the intricacies that as a still new modeller I may not think of, or may even find off putting, so don’t try. Which wouldn’t be great at all! So thanks for the videos, I’ve found the community will always take the time to answer a question, even if it’s very basic. Including yourself! But destructions has honestly made my day today! 🙏🏻😁 (Slight waffle as per, I’m no good at ‘texting’ type comments!)

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Angelus, for such a heartwarming comment. Regards, Charlie.

[@timothyjohnston4083]

I vote for an instructional video on installing the double-slip points. Installing a curved point is not much different to installing a standard one. If your explanation for them is as comprehensive and easy-to-understand as this video is, no one can have any excuses for not being able to install one themselves. :) Bravo on such a great video (once again). :)

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Many thanks, Timothy. Which ever I do first rest assured, I will do the other second. Regards, Charlie.

[@SimonCullen-sl8fk]

I noted the question on interlocking. Not easy with the point motor chosen by Charlie. However, if you use a Cobalt point motor, it has 2 auxiliary switches, 1 used for the frog polarity and you can use the other to interlock the switch blades so they don't move out of turn.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

That’s an interesting point Simon, however surely this must be a workable solution for the MP 10 also. Regards Charlie.

[@acftus]

A very complicated subject done with some simple advice. That's the thing I like about your videos - easy to follow, clear instructions and some very useful guidance. Luckily for me my layout is very simple, but the video had me fixed all the way through. Cheers, Kevin

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Kevin, that’s very kind of you to say so. Regards Charlie.

[@acftus]

@@ChadwickModelRailway Your channel really is a must watch!!!

[@EsotericArctos]

The video was done very well, but the actual principles and the project is not overly complicated. The best way to understand it all is to just draw it on a piece of paper and it is just a few switches. Honestly, if you are starting out or not sure, drawing the electrical path on paper ( roughly what a schematic is) makes it a lot easier to understand

[@Fessestrains]

Hi Charlie Have you ever considered mounting tortoise switch motors horizontally with the actuator wire bent at 90’ to go up through the base board. You can mount directly to a cross member if for some unfortunate reason you place a point too close or if you need a slimmer installation without the motor hanging down.

[@colinwhewell7049]

Thank you Charlie, I am not a railway modeller but I am an Engineer, so I appreciate the complexity and the skills that you demonstrate so well. It must be very satisfying when it all works as you intend. I am subscribed and like all your videos and thank you for the pleasure you give everyone watching them. Happy Paddy's day.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Colin, that’s very kind of you to say so. Regards, Charlie.

[@alancope9962]

Loved it Charlie, and you managed the whole thing without ending up covered in plasters 😂👍

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

You’re right, Alan, I didn’t burn myself either! Regards Charlie

[@JimSmith-d9t]

Excellent video as always Charlie. Just a tip for cutting the point sleeper webbing - use a small wooden block to raise the point off the worktop, to allow the blade to be parallel with the worktop. Think of a chef's knife, with its shoulder between blade and handle, designed with this in mind.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks mate, for some excellent advice. Regards, Charlie.

[@thelibrarian46]

Thank you Charlie. I admire your problem solving skills and patience in laying and wiring points, and I find this fascinating to watch.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks librarian, so pleased that you found the video interesting. Regards Charlie.

[@philiphillebrand2965]

"It does make sense" Charlie. I have done this exact same thing on all the points (PECO code 75 Electrofog) on my layout. Fantastic video explaining something every model railway modeller should know.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Philip, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards, Charlie.

[@markjohnson9136]

This had no relevance to my layout, but you explained it all so well I just kept watching through the whole video. Great job

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks, Mark, you obviously found it entertaining. Regards, Charlie.

[@simaesthesia]

I really hope that you get to that 100K, Charlie! I always thoroughly enjoy your content, 'tongue in cheek' humour and humble attitude. Great video as ever. Thanks. Simon.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Simon, this comments such as yours that make the whole thing worthwhile. Regards, Charlie.

[@stephendavies6949]

Another fascinating tutorial. You really are a natural at it. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

That’s most kind Stephen. Regards Charlie

[@johnmassey7687]

easy to understand process, you make it interesting to watch and learn, would appreciate the diamond points next

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Not diamond crossings I’m afraid, double slips are what I’m installing. Regards Charlie

[@johnmassey7687]

@@ChadwickModelRailway of course it is my mistake

[@andrewbergman9315]

I have a different approach to soldering that you might want to try. I put a dab of flux using a toothpick on each rail and then put solder onto the tip of the iron. When I put the iron onto the rail the solder flows via the flux onto the rail. That means I don't need to hold the iron on the rail and apply solder.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Sound advice Andrew, thank you. However, I now use a different flux from DCC Concepts. It really is a game changer for me. Regards, Charlie.

[@1911Fauquier]

another "well done video" thanks from Canada

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks 1911F, much appreciated. Regards Charlie

[@SuperRobertwillis]

Thoroughly enjoyed that Charlie didn't understand most of it but enjoyed it all the same 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂❤

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Roberts, as usual, I don’t believe a word of it mate. Regards, Charlie.

[@alexmorgan2296]

Another really helpful video demonstrating no small skill - might even dare to wire one up now! Those MP10 point motors do look really good. I’d vote for wiring double slips too - always make a “pig’s ear” when trying my own! Thank you again for sharing.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Alex, I’m so pleased that you found the video useful. Regards, Charlie.

[@anthonystevens8683]

Another great video Charlie, these are an invaluable asset to someone like me who is re-staring an interest in model railways. My late dad showed me how to solder before I was a teenager and it brought back some fond memories having to 'tin' the leads and the destination point before applying solder to the joint so that the solder flows between the parts with the minimal of heat. For delicate components back in the 70's we'd use a heat shunt. Once again many thanks for sharing the thought process along with the method for these activities. Anyway I'm still some way off a build so I hope I will absorb all your shared knowledge like a sponge. As a kid I had a gift for this but maybe less so some decades later. Cheers Charlie. All the best.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Anthony, I’m so pleased that you found the video interesting. Regards, Charlie.

[@smeeuwis]

Thanks for covering these point motors Charlie. I was in the process of deciding which to use on my new layout but now I know!

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I’m so pleased that you found the video useful. Regards Charlie

[@MichaelKavanagh-zg5so]

Must agree with your remarks about Scenic 3D points jigs/templates. For the very average railway modeller (me) they're ideal, especially on Setrack points

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Yes, Michael, a great asset. Regards, Charlie.

[@davidcox5289]

Wish I had seen this video before I fitted my 3 way point over a year ago. Now I know why my shunter stalls! Hopefully I can get it out & bridge the rails as you demonstrated - but it won't be easy I guess. Thanks for all your videos Charlie - always instructive.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks David, so pleased that you found the video useful. Regards, Charlie.

[@Robls501510]

Great video, Charlie. Vote for installing the double-slip points. Thanks.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Rob, whichever one I do first, it will shortly be followed by the other. Regards, Charlie.

[@AllenHutchinson-p3w]

Hi Charlie, a quicker tip to save time and materials; when cutting grooved MDF boards with a jigsaw - have the good side facing the foot, because the blade is a pull cut and will draw the fragile strips against it's self. Subscribed and enjoying the show.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

That’s a fair point, but of course I couldn’t scribe the line on the outside. Another way is to use a much finer blade, designed to cut steel. Regards Charlie.

[@lordflasheart6801]

To me, the stuff of nightmares! Another detailed and informative edition. Nice one Charlie. All the best. Nige

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Nige, that’s most kind. Regards Charlie,

[@AndrewBashford-v4e]

Well done Charlie . Another very informative video. I have two of the dreaded 3 way points which I’ve successfully wired but your video was certainly clearer and clarifies the whole process . I live near Perth Western Australia, am a subscriber and always look forward to your videos . Andy

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks, Andy, much appreciated. It’s great to have you on board. Regards, Charlie.

[@nigelnicholson7439]

Thank you for another instructional and very entertaining video. Please tell me that I am not the only one, but when, at about 15 minutes in, the soldier rolled towards the front of the screen, I automatically put my hand out to catch it when it fell. You beat me to it, though.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks, Nigel, you’re obviously paying too much attention. Regards, Charlie.

[@stevenhoward3358]

Point taken, I'm not the sharpest tool in the box, every day is a learning day :)

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Rest assured Steven, none of us are really experts. Regards, Charlie.

[@GeoffreyBOULTON-v9k]

hi Charlie another interesting and informative video your a natural at presenting and i always look forward to your videos

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

That’s very kind of you to say so mate. His comments such as yours, and make it all worthwhile. Regards, Charlie.

[@CAPNMAC82]

An excellent and cogent explanation on wiring that rather complicated throw-out.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks, Captain Mac, your comment is much appreciated. Regards, Charlie.

[@keithshayle7027]

You've clearly done this before!!😂 Highly detailed video with excellent soldering skills. As i get older, although im only 58, there is a bit of 'shacky hand' creeping in, making soldering increasingly difficult. Good to see a steady hand at work....

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Kieth, I’m so pleased that you found the video interesting. Regards, Charlie.

[@IanBrant]

Another great informative video thanks . Double slip wiring next please Charlie.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks mate, but whichever one I do first, I will do the other next. Regards, Charlie.

[@howardavins9234]

Hi again Charlie Marvelous. Entertaining and informative. I think I will avoid a 3 way point though ! Why do you remove the springs? I wish I could solder like that. To be able to solder the remaining two joints on the jumper without melting the previous Is clever. Look forward to the double slips. Thanks again. Really enjoyable Stay safe. Howard

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Hi Howard, I believe that soldering is easier than you think. Perhaps a subject for a future video. Regards Charlie

[@raybertelsen6090]

you remove the spings to make it easier for the switch machine to work without overloading it, if you do manual switching you can leave them in. ans as Charlie said once you take them out you wont get them back in. so plan ahead for what you want before taking them apart. Happy Railroading Howard

[@grahamthompson6622]

Unifrog next please Charlie. I wish I had known about these earlier and my still find them useful in my very space-restricted layout.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks, Graham, I’ll start the research. Regards, Charlie.

[@dakdak7609]

Yes, that would be good. A number of friends are now Unifrog advocates, with some even suggesting that they do away with the need for stay-alives. Be good to get a decent analysis and review.

[@pierre-de-standing]

I had wondered if it might be possible to convert an electrofrog point to a unifrog point. Some cutting of rails with a very fine disc would be involved and some tricky soldering.

[@grahamthompson6622]

I have no experience of unifrog points so don't know exactly how they are constructed. I use several setrack points which were converted for me to electrofrog models by Patrick Nicholls who can be found on the internet. His work has proved to be of high quality and has bee (so far) entirely reliable. Sorry I cannot help more directly.@@pierre-de-standing

[@martinpattison1567]

And the point is? Thank you, Charlie as usual you make it look so simple, as you explain,very clearly what we have to do. Martin.(Thailand)

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Martin, so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards, Charlie.

[@alanwhite4003]

Nice one Charlie. Wouldn’t it be so much better if the maker linked out the rails for us ? With an option to cut the links if not needed.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I’ll take it up with Peco, at Ally Pally on Sunday Alan. Regards Charlie

[@roystudds1944]

Great video as always Charlie. Enjoy Ally Pally. I decided to give it a miss this year but it’s always a great show. Thanks for sharing. Roy.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Roy, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards, Charlie.

[@andersholt4653]

Thank you Charlie for another tutorial on points. I've found 3-way points and double slips to be very challenging, but with your expert guidance, at least I won't get an ulcer when working with them. Greetings from Sweden 🇸🇪.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Anders, I’m so pleased that I am of some use. Regards, Charlie.

[@waldenhouse]

Thank you Charlie; I’d like to see your experience with fitting & wiring the Unifrog please. I’ve bought mine and not quite ready yet so a preamble would be most useful. Thank you. Bob

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks, Bob, and yes, I will certainly cover the uni frog. Regards, Charlie.

[@bryan_lane]

That Charlie, was a particularly interesting and informative video. In particular, because I’ve so far installed a couple of MTB MP1 point motors and will soon be embarking on the installation of four more, so there’s some very helpful hints for me from this video. I love those templates, I think I need to invest in one or two of those. Just thought I’d mention something that I do out of experience with Peco points. I’ve had a couple of instances of those fine frog wires failing after having been in service for a while. This has been caused by the very fine welds of the wires onto the underside of the track, sometimes they aren’t very well done and come off easily. If the weld is poor, it causes it to go into a high resistance connection and as I’m sure you’re aware, that causes a current increase leading to a thermal runaway that eventually causes the weld to fail. The next thing you know, trains are stopping or jerking across the point. So now, in addition to the modifications you’ve shown, I also remove the fine wires and dremmel out channels under the point to replace the fine wires with the dropper wire that I solder on - bridging the frog connections in a similar way to how you do your track feeds. This improves reliability considerably. Finally, just an observation. You’ve noted that the reason you’re using MTB motors instead of the Tortoise ones is to provide clearance underneath for trains on lower sections of your layout. Then you discussed the shaft, or pin of the point motor is adjustable up and down. It occurred to me that there’s a risk of trains hitting the pin if you lower it too far so perhaps just a final check of clearance of trains underneath when the completed assembly is put back in place to make sure none of the pins are low enough for trains to strike them ? Anyway, just a thought. I’ve been waiting for Peco,to start producing their Code 100 points in Unifrog versions, so it’s great to see that you have one now. I’m hoping these will be readily available by the time I get around to Phase 3 of my build. So, seeing as you asked, I’d like to see the curved Unifrog point wired up in your next video. That’s it for now Charlie, great video as always. Take care.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Many thanks for your comment Bryan. I have never had a frog wire come away, once installed. However, I’ve pulled few off during preparation. I’ll try to find out if Peco are planning to upgrade there Codes 100 and 75 to Unifrog. Regards Charlie

[@colinmeredith7114]

I've got the same wire strippers, soldering stations, and I don't like lead-free solder either...thanks for the video. 🙂

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Clearly Colin, we have much in common. Regards, Charlie.

[@delboy1727]

The one thing with 3-way points that seems to not get mentioned, is sequencing the operation or providing some basic interlocking between the two point motors. Why would this need to be considered, I hear you ask? With the route set for the straight ahead option, both sets of switch blades are free to move. However, when either the left or right routes are selected, one set of switch blades will be 'pinned' by the other. If you then elect to move the pinned blades first, you will effectively be trying to move both. Personally, I prefer to interlock the movement rather than try and implement some sort of sequencing, as one of the switch outputs on each of the motors can be used to either cut or enable the supply circuit to the opposite motor as appropriate.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

You are of course dead right Dell boy. However, I will cover this when I come to do the wiring. Regards, Charlie.

[@grahamthompson6622]

I use four 3-way points in the feeds to and from a fiddle yard. These are automatically controlled using devices (Block Signalling IRP1 modules) which can only make binary choices. As a result, I have to operate the two point motors in sequence to give me a choice of three tracks. This is quite easily arranged and only requires an addition switch on the first point motor - the one nearest the toe. The first timer then activates via the IRP1s both motors in the same direction. They therefore select either the LH track or the RH track, If the RH track is selected, then the next timer operates (again via the IRP1) only the second motor. This selects between the RH track and the centre track. If the first change selects the LH track, then the extra switch on the first point motor interrupts the timer output so that the second point motor remains inert thus leaving the LH track selected. It works.

[@delboy1727]

@@ChadwickModelRailwayGood man. As I said in my first comment, I don't think I have ever seen this particular topic covered by any model railway KZbinr.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

@@grahamthompson6622 thanks Graham, for an excellent comment. Standby, I might be chasing you up on this one. Regards, Charlie.

[@paulgriffiths276]

​@ChadwickModelRailway Really interested to see how you wire up/operate the two motors on the 3 way. Hoping u can suggest how to do it with manual switches as well as you covering DCC operation.

[@philiphillebrand2965]

Just one hint Charlie, I always mark the position of the holes for the wires before attaching the wires to the point, makes it just a little bit easier.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

A Fair point Philip, regards Charlie

[@brianbs7348]

Thanks, Charlie excellent it has helped me a lot I'm glad I have become a patron.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Brian, it’s great to have you onboard. Regards Charlie

[@64heffer]

Thanks Charlie, informative as ever. Looking forward to the double slip set up

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks 64, so pleased that you enjoy the videos. Regards, Charlie.

[@AllensTrains]

Hi Charlie. You'll have to call the entrance to the Upper Freight Yard, "Derailment Corner"! A 3-way point is a great space saver. We can only hope that once the trackwork is all installed with all those fancy point motors that it does not live up to its name! These MP10s look much better than the Cobalt ones which are so bulky under the baseboard. Good explanatory video as always. Thanks for uploading.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Allen, so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards, Charlie.

[@jamesflint3057]

Great podcast on installling point motors and rails!

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks James, so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards, Charlie.

[@H105]

Great stuff Charlie ... can you carry on and show how to wire them up .. including say, how to switch two motors together and how to include a coloured signal or direction lights on a control board?

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I was certainly show you how I wanted them up. However, I have no signals to wire in that area. Regards, Charlie.

[@bazza3643]

Hello Charlie, I must thank you for bringing my attention to these turnout motors. After viewing your video no. 188 I ordered a 6 pack of the MP 1 turnout motors. In my opinion, they are the best turnout motors on the market today, quiet and slow acting just like a real railway turnout motor. The only slight modification I made was to incorporate a brass omega loop between the motor and the turnout, as the 3 mm throw was too big for my hand made turnouts, otherwise they operate perfectly. Thank you. Regards Barry PS for switching the MP 1 I am using a simple DPDT slide switch.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Bazza, I pleased that they worked out well for you. Regards. Charlie

[@Tez_Thorn1405]

Oh i forgot to leave a comment, silly me, your layout is my personal favourite, mainly to see how things were before my time

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

ThanksTez, that’s very kind of you to say so. Regards, Charlie.

[@jonharbour9166]

Another superb video Charlie! My vote is for the double slip. I have two to install on my planned layout, but although I'm primarily using Code 100 track, I went down the path of the Code 75 electrofrog double slip and the code 100 to code 75 conversion tracks. I have two double slips to install, so these tutorials are very timely!

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Jon, and I do hope you find the forthcoming videos useful. Regards Charlie

[@jonharbour9166]

@@ChadwickModelRailway I'm sure I will Charlie. I really admire how you can make complex topics so comprehensible! Thanks!

[@delphjunction1168]

Hi Charlie. Glad you pointed out the problem with the blade connection. Just bought exactly the same three way point, thought I had a duff one until I squeezed the blades. As yourself not a fan of these points. Thanks you Charlie. Pete.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Pete, I see that we both have our reservations regarding this point. Regards, Charlie.

[@stephenpike3147]

Hi Charlie It is certainly a lot of work, but all the planning and studying of instructions pays off. It’s curtains if you do not plan or dive headlong into it and then have to rip it all up! Glad your curved point worked out, invaluable in saving space versus straight ones in some cases! All the best Stephen

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Stephen, I’m so pleased that you found the video interesting. Regards, Charlie.

[@tonyslight826]

Hi Charlie that was very good and most useful to any one using those types of point motor , too late in the day for me to change from my old Peco ones but never the less most enjoyable to watch your good self showing how its done. thank you.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Tony, that’s very kind of you to say so. Regards, Charlie.

[@KingsviewModelRailway]

Great video, Charlie! I found my older locos just don't like the 3 ways as their wheelbase is too large! Great to see how you wired them.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

You meke an excellent point, I’m only using Bo-Bo locos, in that area. Regards, Charlie.

[@timsully8958]

Six of one and arse of what, Charlie? 😅 Great tutorial mate. I am increasingly sold on those MP point motors as they seem compact, easily adjustable and brilliantly simple units. I must admit the Tortoise motors appealed but always seemed a bit too chunky for my liking, so they might well be the answer to my needs 😎 I obviously am happy to recycle my old PECO motors as they are always handy on storage and fiddle yards and I hate to waste anything in truth! 😅 Incidentally, I have a similar soldering set and it is excellent. Love the digital display and the fact it has simple but important functions like sleep and the head cleaning scrunched metal dip thing. I’m not the world’s greatest solderer, but it does help me to do a better job 😎 I look forward to the double slips episode as that will be an enormous help too. Have a great week mate 👍🍻🍀

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Tim, that’s really kind of you to say so. Regards, Charlie.

[@peterjones1065]

Thanks Charlie, very informative and timely for me. I now have a brand new 3 way point for sale !!

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Peter, do let me know how you get on. Regards Charlie

[@WHP1980s]

Good informative video Charlie, even being an old wireman these points still make me scratch my head. Nice to have it explained in a straight forward way. Atvb Graham 🙂

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Graham, that’s very kind of you to say so. Regards, Charlie.

[@elffski7915]

I would go for double slip video, having just installed 3 with much head scratching to get them installed and then set up to work on my Z21 it would be good to see the easy way to do it :). As ever your videos are lighthearted, easy to digest and from my POV the best source of information out in there, keep up the great work.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks mate, it’s very kind of you to say so. Regards, Charlie.

[@tomlawton7087]

Charlie, thank you for an entertaining demonstration of intricate track planning and laying. For the three-way points, where does the power to the frog take over from the power to the blades? With a normal two-way point, you show the action of cutting the feed from the frog to the blade (and actually, without frog power, the other way around), but I didn't see the same action being done for the three-way point. Best wishes.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Hi Tom, there are small isolated sections within point construction. Regards, Charlie.

[@onnomulder9775]

Awesome update Charlie!!! Very useful as always! I liked it very much. Cheers Onno

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks, Onno, you’re most kind. Regards, Charlie.

[@nealc.6927]

Reckon the Double Slip is probably the ideal follow-up. The curved point is bog standard stuff . . .

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I think you’re right, Neal, but I shall cover them all. Regards, Charlie.

[@steveedwards9957]

Thanks Charlie, I appreciate you doing this. I'm still not sure about 3 way turnouts. I will be interested in your experiences. And I'm looking forward to the double slip show 😊

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Steve, so pleased that you found the video interesting. Regards, Charlie.

[@baldjohn]

If I may give you a tip. If you use a mini fan while soldering, it will blow away the lead fumes. For example, a USB fan on a power bank is sufficient.

[@m10cachilles43]

I was going to recommend this. I have a fume extractor which pulls the fume through a carbon filter. Also has a light and runs off USB. Fairly sure it was an Amazon special for under £20.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks guys, I’m on the case. Regards, Charlie.

[@andrewlaverghetta715]

Great! So far I’ll still probably use manual turnout controls, but I do like seeing how new motors work like this.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Andrew, but I suggest that you drill the hole should you change your mind later. Regards Charlie.

[@TigersRule2024]

I've fitted many peco points of all descriptions since my build started in 2007. Although I'd heard reference to these modifications I never really understood it and was fearful of ruining the thing, so left 'em alone. OK, so I very occasionally have to clean or tweak the blades and it's all too late to start changing things now. The other aspect of this I never understand is that if this change is such an advantage to good running why don't peco make them that way in the first place? As an aside, although I won't be starting any new builds I do find your presentations so good I can't resist watching. The only regret and frustration I have is that you weren't doing this when I started!!

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I’m so pleased that you found the video interesting. I do believe that Peco need to modify and update their stock lines. Regards,Charlie

[@stewarteadie6769]

Great Video Charlie, I would vote in wiring up the Double Slip.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Many thanks, Stewart, but whichever I do first the other will follow shortly. Regards, Charlie.

[@andrewstephenson3594]

Hi Charlie, great video, there's nothing like seeing something done to get rid of the fear of starting something. Could you have used the larger holes in the jig to locate the actuator holes?

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I take your point Andrew, although holding the point blades yourself makes the drilling. a little more accurate. Regards, Charlie.

[@bobwightman1054]

Having watched a, ahem, few of your videos and given how consistent you are with your methodology of wiring your points and slips I'm surprised you don't use a template to mark up the holes for them in the baseboard. Similar to the Scenic 3D point jigs in a way but specific to your methodology. Both your wiring holes and the 10mm hole for the actuator wire have enough wiggle room to allow for minor adjustments in alignment. Given how far you've got it might be a bit late for this! 😁

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Just a little Bob, four more points and the layout track laying will be finished! Regards, Charlie

[@peterfarrington3702]

Hi Charlie, I wish you had done this video before I had my escapade with the 3-way points, I did get them sorted eventually and they now work fine. The heat-shrink kit is very useful, I got mine some months ago when I was installing decoders into some of my 1980's loco's. an extremely versatile kit. With regard to what to do next I think you should operate on the curved 'Unifrog' point as I don't think that many of us have had experience of them, as always a very interesting and informative video, many thanks.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Peter, I’m so pleased that you found the video useful. Regards, Charlie.

[@michaelimpey1407]

Charlie, thank you, a very informative video. I have always kept well clear of 3 way point, they do not appear to get a good wrap, but you have de-mystified them for me. The MP Series of point motars are very good, and I am impressed with the MP5's I have. With regard to the next step, my vote is on the double slips, that are also a bit confusing on how to get them right. Great tip on giving the track a bit of a file to make the solder grip better. As sometimes it doesn't stick. 'Thank you for sharing, I really do look forward to seeing your progress. Cheers, and stay safe, Michael

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Michael, I’m so pleased that you found a video interesting. Whichever order I do the next few videos in, rest assured all asspects will be covered. Regards, Charlie.

[@ronaldhaynes4042]

Charlie very enjoyable thankyou for your time .

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Ronald, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards, Charlie

[@RabidWombatz]

i've been using frog juicers, and just using Peco's wires. this is easy. I do modify the electrofrog long turnouts (N scale) but the scissors, unifrogs, 3 ways, double slips all have wires which just work (if DCC) with the frog juicers, of which I use Tam valley and the other brands.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks, RW, for sharing your system. Regards, Charlie.

[@NeilM_CFO]

Great video Charlier, now all set for my own layout and Oppenheimer...!

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Neil, and good luck with your project. Regards Charlie

[@SamBarr-cx5er]

I had to use marine ply for my boards because after cutting 2 sheets of 8 ft x 4 ft std ply to 22 bespoke sizes, after 2 weeks they had warped. I normally deburr the other side of the board where I have drilled it, in order to get rid of the sharp wooden spikes from the ply. I used code 75 for my upper part of the layout and code 100 for the storage yard. I have 2 of the 3 way points on my storage yard but at the time Peco did not make the 3 way conductive point for code 100 so I bought code 75 conductive 3 way points and used the rail adaptors to enable me to use the code 75 3 way points, with the code 100 rail.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Many thanks for sharing your process, Sam. The boards that warped, was it in a damp environment? Regards, Charlie.

[@SamBarr-cx5er]

@@ChadwickModelRailwayNo, the marine ply has stood up to more extreme conditions than that which warped, The other ply warped within 2 months but the marine ply was cut and installed about 5 years ago.

[@lgrfbs]

Thanks for a nice video. Peco is right, you don't need to remove the zero point spring. There is an easier way to deactivate the zero point spring, you take a flathead screwdriver and push (move) the plastic part opposite the pull rod/points arm so that the distance between the plastic part and the metal clips (which are behind the plastic part) is zero millimeters and now the zero point spring has been deactivated. With this solution it can be restored if later on you want it.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Blow me down, every day is still a school day. I never knew that, regards Charlie.

[@user-nx3uc6rh2r]

Great vid especially as there is little on the three way wiring out there. Double slip wiring and point motor installation would be greasy to see please. Cut safely with your new knife. Steve.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Steve, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Also, I still have my fingertips! Regards Charlie.

[@LaurenceHoward-f4h]

Another informative and interesting video.Thanks

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks mate, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards, Charlie.

[@mels1811]

Brilliant video Charlie

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Mels, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards, Charlie.

[@ngaugefouroaksstreetstatio6932]

Excellent, these are a great improvement on the traditional solenoid if if they are more expensive ? All the best

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Four Oaks, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards, Charlie.

[@dundasjunctionmodelr.r-jam8267]

That is on feature I like with Walthers turnouts, they have jumpers already installed to connect the points but they don’t make a 3 way or a slip and I use code 83, Peco don’t fit Walthers very well , great video Charlie

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks DJ, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards, Charlie.

[@lilchris26]

Nice video Charlie, I have done a similar mod with my N-Gauge three way point, they are rubbish without it for slow running which is usually the case in goods yards etc. Did not know you screwed them down, I thought you used Copydex for fixing your track. The reason Peco do not recommend removing the springs is because the tie bar can become loose, well it does on n-gauge especially if you do not have the motor correctly lined up. Chris

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Hi Chris, the reason I didn’t glue them down was in case I have to move them. I have a small modification to alleviate the movement of the tie bar, which I shall cover shortly. Regards Charlie

[@adrianolsen-woodhamwoodtur4980]

Exceptionally informative at ever, Charlie. Many thanks for your clear explanations on this complicated point installation. For my part, I’d like to see how you link it up to your control system (Digitrax?) and see it working (although I suspect that you’ll first want to install the rest of the Points and track-work before doing that). Keep up the fantastic work…inspiring stuff !

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Adrian, whichever way I do it rest assured I will go into the Digitrax link up. Regards, Charlie.

[@FlyOz-b7b]

Great video as usual. Could I suggest you file the tip of your soldering iron to a chisel rather than a point. You can make a finer or broader chisel to suit as well, the re tin the copper tip ie add solder . That way when you touch the tip to say a rail a flat surface area of the tip will heat a broader ( relative to a pointed tip)area and give better heat transfer and a better solder Pad.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I take your point, but the soldering tips are plated and using a file makes them unusable. Regards, Charlie.

[@chrislockerby1411]

Once again an inspired Video having to re jig my upper level I would like to see the double slip I would also like to see how you integrate the MP 10 with the Digitrax stationary decoder and if your also going to use MP 7 as well which I believe are three wire as opposed to two wire on the MP 10 Keep up the the Great Inspirational Video’s

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Hi Chris, I have may have misled you in the video. On the MP 10, there are nine terminals, rather than eight. The centre terminal is the common for three wire switching. Regards, Charlie.

[@chrislockerby1411]

@@ChadwickModelRailway Cheers Charlie I naively thought there were two types of point motors two wire where the polarity is reversed and Three wire with a common, every days a learning day thanks for pointing that out Keep up the Great Work Ps any date on the Summer Camel open Day ?

[@brucewoods9377]

Watching you struggle with that 3-way point, I thought…”that’s what Dremels are for👍. You are correct about that lead free solder, it is next to useless unless it is being used in a commercial solder flow application. As an electronics engineer I can state emphatically that I ONLY use leaded solder in my workstation, just wear an appropriate filter mask

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Many thanks for sharing your thoughts, Bruce. I did not use the Dremel as most people won’t have one. Regards, Charlie.

[@andy_croft]

those mp 10 are well designed, i like the adjustment

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Andy, they do seem very practical solution. Regards, Charlie.

[@davidberlanny3308]

Hi Charlie, you made that look so simple. Imagine trying to do all that without having a removable board. If memory serves you have a surface mount point motor just below this goods yard. Doesn't look like there would be space to use them in this position. Great video as always. Have a great weekend!!

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Yes, you’re right David, on this board there really isn’t room to mount them on the surface. Many thanks, regards Charlie.

[@jaym2381]

Very useful installation tips for the MP point motors Charlie. I can't thank you enough - I have a few of the MP types, yet to install, and your explanation will make it much easier for me. Did you choose the MP10 specifically because it has the same footprint as the Tortoise?

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I choose the MP10s because of the use of the jig and to test it on behalf of the subscriber as it’s a new item on the market. Regards, Charlie.

[@tonypetts6663]

I've called them destructions too, ever since I worked at Beatties High Holborn in the mid eighties with a great old girl who always called them that. I think I'd like to see the double slips next, wiring them would drive me potty (and potty mouthed too no doubt.😋). Pretty sure I'll be using them at some point soon, well relatively soon in my world! Obviously I'd like to see unifrog as well, but I don't have any of the in my stock ready to use at the moment. Very useful how too today, I've got a few 3 ways to be used at some point (again!) so I've saved this ready for that day.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Tony, whichever one I do first rest assured I will be doing the other. Regards, Charlie.

[@rocknroll527]

Very well explained, thank you.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

You are welcome, mate, thank you. Regards, Charlie.

[@markvickery4032]

Hi Charlie another great video very interesting and informative a big thank you for everything you do for railway modelling best regards Mark vickery

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Mark, that’s very kind of you to say so. Regards, Charlie.

[@earlfreeman93]

Charlie you need an offset screwdriver; I don't know if anyone still makes them or if they are available in Britain.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Yes, Earl, I shall have a scratch around for one. Regards, Charlie.

[@grahamsimpson3186]

Another very good video Charlie.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Graham, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards, Charlie.

[@HillcrestHalt]

Hi Charlie. When will you be running another KZbinrs tutorial event again. I can’t remember which video you mentioned doing the second one. Cheers in advance. 😊

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Hi HCH, it’s on Sunday 12 May, with a couple of remaining spaces. Drop me an email to, Chadwickmodelrailway @ gmail.com Regards Charlie

[@EsotericArctos]

Lead free solder is harder to melt and doesn't flow as well. I prefer 60/40 myself, and I am an electronics technician and design boards. Lead free tends to crack easier too. 400 Celsius is probably a good temperature for soldering tracks as the metal acts as a heat sink and zaps the heat away from the iron so quickly. On normal circuit boards, or tinning wires and the like, 350 is plenty of heat. The cheap irons like what you have are perfect for soldering to tracks.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Many thanks for your reassurance EA, regards Charlie

[@tonymarsh8653]

THANKS, Great demonstration, and education. double slip next for me please.....

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it and only 8 days to go for you choice Tony, Regards Charlie

[@donsharpe5786]

Interesting video. I can quite see why you don't like three way points. I have a set upstairs unused. I think it will stay unused.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

At least I know where to come should one of mine fail! Regards, Charlie

[@richardandrews6754]

first rate as always Charlie, very clear on how to deal with the fitting and wiring.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks, Richard, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards, Charlie.

[@topspoke]

You have been busy. Starring in the latest episode of Tales of the Piddle Folk too!

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

It’s shocking, they won’t let me go! Regards, Charlie