Pellet Tech 101 - Vacuum Switch / Pressure Switch

Welcome back to Pellet Tech 101! In today's video we give an overview on the Vacuum Switch also referred to as a Pressure Switch or Low Draft Sensor. UPDATED VIDEO: • Pellet Tech 101 - Vacu...

[@joelandrigan3779]

Thank you so much! I hired a local stove company to address my blinking # 2 light. I couldn't be here as I work long days. He didn't fix a thing, but he sure did take the check I left him. With your help, I figured out there was a tiny bit of debris in the vacuum line. It's heating like a champ. Thanks again!!

[@EarthSense]

That's fantastic to hear Joe! So glad we were able to be of help and you are up and running again. Sorry to hear about your local tech and how that was handled. Any questions or issues down the road give us a shout first and we will see how we can help to save you time and money. Appreciated!

[@joelandrigan3779]

@@EarthSense I very much appreciate that. 🙂

[@EarthSense]

@@joelandrigan3779 Absolutely Joe!

[@algatti9096]

I enjoy watching your tutorial videos. I find them very helpful in understanding better how a pellet stove works. I have a Caddy Alterna I that I am not able to get ignition on. I have tested all the switches / sensors and they are fine. The ignitor has been tested with 110 V directly applied and works. The I/O circuit control board has been replace. Part of the wiring harness has been replaced and the LED screen has been replaced. Despite the fact that I have worked with tech support many times at the manufacturer, they have not been able to correctly diagnose the issue(s). When I turn on the power to the furnace - NOTHING HAPPENS. Neither the exhaust fan, nor the ignitor fan turn on; the auger motor does not even come on to feed the burn pot. Now, when I disconnect the white cable going from the I/O circuit board to the LED screen - THREE ITEMS ARE ACTIVATED. The lower auger motor turns but is not feeding pellets into the burn pot. However, both of the fans (exhaust and ignition) are running. The ignitor is not activated. Any suggestions or ideas what the problem may be is much appreciated. What do you recommend testing ? I am pretty handy with a multi-meter. Thanks for your help? Al

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us Al. We've never personally carried or serviced the Caddy Alterna stove, however I will try to provide some basics here that may be helpful. Generally speaking, in most stoves the igniter is activated directly by the control board during the start-up sequence. There are some stoves that have an ignition timer block that plays a roll. Check your ignition wiring and see if it goes to any kind of timer block prior to the circuit board. There are cases where igniters will get red hot to direct electrical power, however are not operating in the proper ohm range when in the appliance to light the fire. Use your multi-meter to check the igniter ohms. From what I am seeing it looks like the Caddy Alterna uses a 300 watt element. I don't know the ohm specs on that igniter, but other igniters we offer that are 300 watt have ohm ranges of 30.0-38.0, 40.0-49.0, and 46.0-51.0. See what kind of read you get on it. It's very odd you have to disconnect the cable from your control board to LED screen to get the motors functioning properly, especially given you have just replaced that. That should not be. There is obviously some kind of an electrical issue with that cable or with the circuit board - Factory should have warranties on that to send replacement if it is not working properly. Get a good light and inspect all electrical connections. Here is the manual and electrical breakdown if that helps. www.manualslib.com/manual/1340041/Psg-Caddy-Alterna-Ii.html?page=30#manual TESTING IGNITER: kzbin.info/www/bejne/sGXannaZbpuljKs Hope this helped somewhat, sorry we are not more versed in this model. Thanks Al.

[@ronbauer6716]

Hi, I have a Quadra Fire 1200 FS about 7 years old. I have the same prob as several other posters. Goes thru ignition but aborts when it's time to dispense pellets for heat. After your great posts I have looked at the following: 1. Exhaust blower only draws 98 VAC while running. This seems low vs a line voltage of 120V. 2. The thermocouple generates well over 3mVdc, actually rising to 6mVdc from the ignition pellets. 3. The vacuum tubing is clear (it runs from inside the top of the feed auger). 4. All snap discs are new. Should I replace the exhaust blower?

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us Ron. Typically speaking if your 1200 stops feeding fuel after the start-up cycle, it's generally a thermocouple issue. On your 1200 let's look at the control box while the unit is in start-up and going into normal operation. There will be a lighting sequence that can help us determine if this issue is thermocouple related. Please relay back to us what lights & colors you see on the control box noting when they are blinking and/or steady. Your exhaust blower running at 98V sounds fairly in-line. On start-up it will run at higher voltage, during operation it will vary depending on the heat setting selected. I can get further specifics on proper voltage from our technicians if we need to. Let's also pull off the thermocouple ceramic cover to inspect and clean the thermocouple removing any deposits or build-up at the soldered end. How does your fire look during start-up? Is it crisp and torchy or is it lazy in any way? Happy to help, keep us posted! Thanks,

[@esamhamdy6855]

Thank you very much for the information . You are great teacher God bless for helping us Stay healthy and safe

[@EarthSense]

Thank you Esam, that is so kind of you to say. Humbled and grateful, thank you so much! Any questions we are always here and ready to help.

[@jaycerobinson]

hey there! informative video, thanks, we have ALARM PRESS showing on our ARTEL fire and it is having problems firing up. it gets to the point of ignition and then gets to this error code. might there be a problem with the pressure switch and how do we tell? we would really appreciate your advice you seem like a knowledgable guy!

[@EarthSense]

Jayce, thanks so much for contacting us and for your kind words. Unfortunately we do not have background or experience with ARTEL fireplaces. Typically an ignition error would not have to do with the pressure switch, but with the igniter itself or control board. I would suggest checking the basics first. Make sure the firepot is clean and seated properly, there's no ash obstruction and igniter mount appears to be secure. I wish we could provide some further help or assistance here, we just never have carried the Artel line of stoves and fireplaces. Thanks again.

[@claudiotorres8476]

Thank you for the information was very helpful. I found the vacuum hose switch was very damage dry and I change it now it’s working I do appreciate.

[@EarthSense]

Fantastic to hear Claudio! So glad the info was helpful. Any future questions or needs just let us know. Appreciated.

[@TMichaelJKnivestmichaeljknives]

Thanks for sharing. Very helpful.

[@EarthSense]

Glad it was helpful! Any future questions please let us know!

[@TMichaelJKnivestmichaeljknives]

@@EarthSense Definitely. And thanks again.

[@rickfisher6680]

hi thanks for the great info. I have a harman p43 that refuses to auto light. the igniter is new and tested on 100v to get hot. the stove continuses to feed pellets non stop. I used a wire jumper to connect the 2 wires that I pulled of the vac switch and it stll does not heat the igniter. any suggestions?

[@EarthSense]

Hey Rick, thanks for the message. Happy to assist. It's the hot air rushing past the igniter that lights the fire. Few things to check. 1. Check the ohms of your igniter. We've seen some new igniters that are not in operable range. Ohms should read between 45 - 53 for the Harman Finned Igniter. 2. Check the mount of the igniter and cradle cage. Use a good light and make sure it's tightened evenly and flush underneath the burnpot. 3. Inspect the burnpot holes. Use a small screwdriver or similar tool to open plugged holes. 4. Check your combustion air inlet. If you don't have fresh air installed, check the flapper on the intake to make sure it's not stuck. If you have fresh air intake, make sure nothing is blocking it. 5. Make sure the gasket seals around your door and ash pan are tight. 6. Check the voltage of your combustion fan upon startup. Vacuum switch does not play a part in ignition. Check the simplest things first. Keep us posted, happy to assist. Thanks, Mr. Pellethead

[@carnini]

thank you so much for the information, very helpful

[@EarthSense]

Most welcome Chris!

[@jamesduthoy6873]

My cb1200 igniter wont lite. I replaced it. Thoroughly cleaned unit. Checked gaskets. I even switched the mother board with my other stove. Nothing. Auger is working fine. But igniter remains cold.

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us. I would first suggest we do an ohm reading on the igniter to make sure the element is in proper range. If you have the OEM 300 watt loop igniter in place, ohm range should be 43.5-53.5. It's rare a new igniter would be outside of this range, but it is good to double check. Let's also double check the igniter electrical connections. If the igniter is glowing red and it is not lighting, it's typically an air loss or air blockage issue. If the igniter remains cold and is not getting power during start-up it's typically a control box or fuse issue. Here is a helpful blog on testing the igniter element. Keep us posted, happy to help. pellethead.com/how-to-test-and-replace-a-stove-igniter-pellet-stove-ignition-troubleshooting/

[@GigGal_7]

Hello, I have a pelpro p60 (this is my second season with it) and it's not feeding pellets. I cleaned out the hopper completely and cleaned around the auger. Also cleaned out inside the burn pot and all around the burn area. Next I'm gonna try blowing out the tubing. Any other suggestions?

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us Danielle, happy to help. In most cases this would be a safety switch that's tripped or faulty - most likely just tripped being just two seasons in. Let's start with the basics and most simple items first. 1. Doors: Let's make sure our front door, hopper door, and ash door are closed and sealing tight when we are ready to start the unit. Any air leak will trip the vacuum switch and not allow the unit to feed. 2. Ash Accumulation: Let's thoroughly check the unit and vent pipe for ash accumulation. Any ash blockage will also trip the vacuum switch and not allow the unit to feed. 3. High limit Switch: Last time the stove was operating did you notice a big fire or the unit becoming too hot? Your stove does have a high limit switch and if it exceeds temp it will trip and stop the feed. The high limit switch in your stove has a manual reset - basically a small button in the middle to reset the switch if it trips. Generally this switch would trip if to big of a fire was burning or if the room air blower stopped distributing the air out. Let's check that switch and push the button in the middle. Let's start there. Keep us posted. There are ways we can test the safety switches and troubleshoot further if needed. Thanks!

[@jamespaiz4238]

Check vacuum hose to vac switch

[@GigGal_7]

@@jamespaiz4238 Thank you for your suggestion. My issues have been resolved thankfully. I've noticed when I completely run out of pellets in the hopper, after refilling the hopper and cleaning the burn pot, it takes some time for it to "reset" itself and the auger to refill with pellets and drop again. A family member taught me to override this, by grabbing a few handfuls of pellets and manually placing them in the burn pot so the system "recognizes" there is product there and starts burning it; causing it to warm up and drop pellets again without running through the whole startup process.

[@dylanhamm8722]

pelpro pp130 starts the shutdown sequence the moment you plug it in and flashes the amber light to indicate this. We initially didn't know what to do so we replaced the snap disk with a new one we ordered. Fixed it for a few days then started doing the same thing. Any idea what you would start replacing next?

[@EarthSense]

Hey Dylan, thanks for contacting us. Yes, that's odd. Which snap disc did you replace? The High Limit with the manual reset would be the only one in my eyes if it's going into shutdown the moment you turn the unit on. The High limit is a normally closed limit switch, so if it was open it wouldn't allow power through the circuit to the auger motor. What happens if you bypass that switch for troubleshooting purposes? Here's a video on that - kzbin.info/www/bejne/fHW5nJWpfbhsa7c. Don't want to leave a safety switch bypassed, but can help for troubleshooting. If there are continued issues, I would suggest you call in direct to PelPro as this could be a potential issue with the control board. Keep us posted, happy to help.

[@DIYJIM]

How many times will the status light blink on a P68 Harman if it has a bad pressure switch? Thank you in advance

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us. 2 status light blinks on the Harman P68 will indicate an open feed circuit. This generally has to do with the vacuum/pressure switch, but can also be related to the fuel hopper switch that was used in more recent P68 models. If you are receiving this error let us know, happy to suggest further troubleshooting and things to look at to hone in on the issue. Thanks,

[@Bradford6565]

I have a question on the vacuum switch of my Quadrafire Trekker. The switch looks just like the one in this video. On the light grey side there is a piece of clear rubber/plastic in the center of the switch. That clear piece fell out on my switch. Do you know if that clear rubber piece (now missing) will affect the operation of the vacuum switch? I am troubleshooting my stove and wondering if I should replace the switch because of the missing piece. Love your videos, thank you.

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us, happy to help. The plastic peice in the center of the vacuum switch is just a cover for the adjustment screw…will not affect operation if it has fallen out, But, DO NOT adjust the switch. It is set that way for your model and adjusting it can make the switch useless/faulty. Are you currently having issues with your Trekker? Let us know what is going on; we are happy to help. Thanks!

[@jeffreyallen3777]

Great video. I have a pelpro freestanding Bayview that I picked up for very little recently that was returned to the vendor because the original purchaser couldn't get it started. I don't think it had 1 hour of run time on it. I installed it and have no issues starting, but can't get it to run properly. My issue is setting the proper draft to "popcorn" out burnt pellets from the pot so they don't smother the draft. I think I have plenty of combustion draft because when I adjust the draft even on high I can literally empty the pot of burnt pellets with the force of the draft. I can also get a good, balanced burn. The problem is when I adjust the draft to the setting where I have a good balance of draft to burning pellets the vacuum switch trips and shuts down the auger(blinking auger ligtht). There is no question that the combustion motor is generating enough draft as I can see the force of the air coming up through the pot if I open the draft gate. It's just that when I get the perfect burn balance the vacuum switch shuts the auger down, eventually going into shutdown mode, even though I can literally see there is plenty of draft,to the point burnt pellets are being thrown from the pot.. I would be so grateful for your thoughts as to any remedy. I was thinking my next step might be to jumper the vacuum switch temporarily just to see if I get a normal burn but I'm not sure if I should do that. I have watched several of your videos and there are so helpful.

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us. It certainly sounds like the vacuum switch in your Bayview is overly sensitive given the draft flow you described. Generally speaking air losses or air blockages are what will trip the vacuum switch. You're in the right direction with the draft you set for the optimal fire - popcorn coals slightly bumbling in the burnpot with a nice crisp and torchy fire. For troubleshooting you can bypass the vacuum switch to see how things are operating, however we never want to leave a safety switch bypassed. To me it really does sound like the switch is too sensitive and you might need a replacement. One other thing to look at/test - see if the vacuum switch in your Bayview has a screw in the middle. Oftentimes it looks like an allen bolt or Hex bolt. In some cases this can be turned just slightly to increase or decrease the sensitivity of the diaphragm in the switch. If my memory serves me right, clockwise should increase the sensitivity and counter clockwise decreases it (I may be wrong) - If you try this, do very small increments and put a mark on the switch so you know where it was set originally. Keep us posted, happy to help. Here is the replacement vacuum switch for your Bayview for reference. pellethead.com/product/pellethead-replacement-glowboy-pelpro-vacuum-air-switch/ Here is our video on creating a jumper wire to troubleshoot a safety switch. kzbin.info/www/bejne/fHW5nJWpfbhsa7csi=hgnU3viD2-x5DsvP

[@jeffreyallen3777]

@@EarthSense Success. The stove ran beautifully with the vacuum switch jumper so I borrowed a switch with the same WC rating from another stove to verify that a new switch would correct the problem and it absolutely did. There is no problem with the draft adjustment now,and the switch is functioning as it should and shuts the auger down only when I open the door. Thank you so much for your videos and encouragement and I have ordered the part from your link. Your videos gave me a good understanding of how the safety switches work and set me on the right diagnostic path.Thanks again for your help.

[@EarthSense]

@@jeffreyallen3777 That is fantastic to hear Jeffrey! Thanks for following up with us, great troubleshooting work, and glad we were able to be of assistance. Any needs down the road just let us know! Thanks!

[@daveramsay8115]

Extremely helpful

[@EarthSense]

So glad to hear Dave, thank you!

[@Hardley121]

Quick question, When starting my stove last night it will just continuously run the auger. When I pull the hose off the pressure switch it quits turning the auger. When I put the hose back on it just runs continuously and will not have any cycle time. Where should I turn from here. I can hear the pressure switch click so I know it’s working. @EarthSense

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us, happy to help. What stove make and model do you have? The pressure switch will shut off power to the auger motor if it is tripped or faulty or if you remove the hose or one of the electrical connections. Sounds like your switch is working exactly as it is supposed to. Generally if the auger motor is running continously and not cycling, it's an issue with the control board, but first let us know your stove make and model and we can better assist with that info. Thanks,

[@jenniferfry715]

i have a whitfield quest pellet stove - we were having issues with the stove shutting off after 30 minutes - and then would shut off completely. I have pulled everything apart cleaned everything! literally pulled both fans, auger, exhaust, bricks in front and wow there was soot I never thought was going to be in there! I thought the low pressure switch may be bad, i replaced that, and put the stove back together. we start it up and it acts as if there is not enough air getting to the fire box. i know the switch that controls the air is hooked up, and I ran the unit prior to putting it back into our fireplace (ours is an insert.) we have cleaned the chimney as well. my husband wants to get a new stove I just want to fix our problem. would this be a vacuum issue?

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us. The Whitfield Quest is a great stove - used to have one myself :) The initial 30 minute shutdown you mentioned was more than likely the Proof of Fire Low Limit switch breaking connection and shutting the unit down. The pressure switch will not control air flow, it acts as a safety sensor and will shut down the auger motor if there is air restriction or air loss (Leaky gasket seals, ash blockage in stove/vent). If your current issue is the air flow/combustion air coming into the firepot, then we should check the following: Most common and important is cleaning so glad to hear you have thoroughly cleaned the stove and vent. 1. Let's check voltage on the combustion blower. Should be running near line voltage on start-up. (110 - 120V) Any basic multi-meter can be used to check the voltage. 2. Let's check the gasket seals around the door and ash pan door - need to be sealing tight all the way around 3. Let's check the damper position - make sure it didn't accidentally get pushed all the way in. 4. Check the air intake tube behind the firepot. Make sure nothing is obstructing that cavity. Let us know what you find, I'm confident we can get things back to 100% on your Quest. Thanks!

[@kene175]

If my pellet stove lights up and stays running and feeding pellets, would it be the vacuum switch that is stopping the pellet feed after about 10-15 min of run time? It worked fine but now it seems to do this.

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us Kenneth. This would depend on the stove make and model. There are variances in control board start-up operations and safety switch operations. Can you let us know which make and model you have? Happy to help!

[@vickilewerenz7061]

⁠@@EarthSense/ thelin - parlor 3000

[@LittleAnastasia...]

I have an England brand. It will feed then stop. I've emptied the hopper multiple times. Used a shop vac to completely empty it. This issue started after I mistakenly used a bag of bad pellets. Deep clog or bad switch?

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us. Usually if its a vac switch issue it won't allow the unit to feed at all. For troubleshooting purposes ONLY you can bypass the vac switch and make sure that is not the issue. Video below on Bypassing. Sounds like you cleaned out the hopper and feed system well. Could be the bad bag of pellets put heavy strain on the auger motor and the motor no longer has proper torque. You can test your auger motor direct as well, video below for that. Use a rag and grip the motor shaft with a pliers. When running to direct power you should not be able to stop the shaft from turning if it has proper torque. If you are able to stop the shaft from turning that will indicate a weak motor and the auger motor should be replaced. Test Cord: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qJ3QmnaPfpeKhs0 Safety Switch ByPass: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fHW5nJWpfbhsa7c Keep us posted with what you find. Thanks!

[@joeklein785]

Great video... Quick question on a Harmon accentra 2... Can a bad pressure switch cause over feeding?

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us Joe. No, the pressure switch is just a safety device that will shut down power to the auger motor if its not sensing proper draft/air pressure. 9 times out of 10 when it appears the stove is overfeeding, it's actually an issue with proper air flow. 95% percent of the time this is caused by ash build-up in the stove and/or venting. Double check and give the unit and vent a solid cleaning. Be sure to check the exhaust ESP probe and give that a thorough cleaning as well (We have a video on our channel here on how to do that if needed). Check the firepot and make sure all holes are free and clear. Check the igniter area underneath the burnpot and clear out any ash, making sure the air intake port does not have any obstructions. Next check the door gasket, need to make sure it's sealing tight all the way around. You can also check the combustion blower voltage to make sure it's running as it should. If all of those things check out and it still appears to be overfeeding, let's do a timing test on the auger motor. Run on manual mode and see what the on and off times of the auger motor are on the various settings. The auger feed sequence is determined by the ESP Probe and the Control board. Hopefully that helps, keep us posted. Thanks!

[@joeklein785]

@@EarthSense , thank you for the reply. So I believe I need a new circuit board as I have replaced almost everything on the stove. I have went thru you for several parts on this pellet stove and appreciate all your support and guidance. Thank you!!!

[@EarthSense]

@@joeklein785 Very much our pleasure to assist Joe. If we can be of any further assistance please let us know. Thank You!

[@johnwirtz9693]

I have a Haman Accentra 52i-TC-24 pellet stove insert. It is only 3 months old but I have had this problem since the first day. Whenever it is windy I get a "Door Open" error and the fan shuts off. I can watch on the display and see the pressure switch input turn off for a moment. How do I fix this? On windy days we end up just turning the stove off and burning propane because it does this constantly.

[@EarthSense]

Happy to help John, how is the exhaust vent pipe exiting? Strait out, through the roof, into a chimney? What kind of cap do you have on the end of the pipe? Most vent manufacturers make high wind end caps for the venting; several options out there. Depending on how it's vented, I think the solution to the problem is a different end cap or some sort of non-combustible barrier built around the exhaust vent exit point. Keep us posted.

[@davewinder3545]

I have a Quadra-Fire Castile insert and it won't feed pellets. I bought it brand new in 2015. The combustion blower wasn't working either but I cleaned it really good and it works fine now. The heating element works and I direct tested the feed motor and that also works just fine. Call light is on and the control box flashes 4 times in blue.

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us Dave. Let's first check your control board setting. For your Castile Insert the Control Box should be at Setting 6. Let's verify it's on setting 6 - Make sure the stove is unplugged while doing this. Once we have verified correct setting let's go ahead and start the unit again - let us know what you see. Thanks!

[@davewinder3545]

@@EarthSense The call light comes on, the combustion blower starts up the heating element heats up but I get no pellets. the unit will run if I feed it pellets. I did order a pressure switch from you off of amazon cause I could get it next day but that didn't do anything. The feed motor works because I took it out and jumped it and it turned just fine. I found out I can go to Dale WI and get parts if I need them it's about an 1.5 hr ride 1 way but I need heat it's getting pretty chilly in the house. Thanks for responding !

[@davewinder3545]

Yes 6 flashing blue lights

[@EarthSense]

@@davewinder3545 Thanks for the message Dave. I think the best option will be for you to call in to the Dale store and speak with Greg B. in Tech Support. Let's see how we can assist and troubleshoot over the phone with you to get you back up and running ASAP. You can call in at 800-236-6647

[@tristanbinder2497]

Hey, this is my first season with a pellet stove that is used. My auger motor runs constantly and constantly feeds pellets. I cant figure out what is going on. It's a new motor and was working fine for the first few weeks.

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us Tristan, happy to help. Do you know what make and model stove you have? If you are able to visibly view the auger motor, let us know if it is turning non-stop. If it is turning constantly, most likely that is a control board issue. Sometimes it can appear that the stove is feeding constantly but has to do with proper air-flow - this is why it will be important to view the auger motor and see if it's turning non-stop. In just about every pellet stove out there the auger motor will start and stop depending on the heat setting while the unit is in normal operation. During start-up mode most stoves will feed with a very little auger off time, but still on/off cycle. Keep us posted.

[@philwoodall6662]

Hello. I have a Quadra-Fire Castile insert slow on startup (igniter seems to be working). Once the fire starts, the flame will barely reach above the firepot rim. When the blower turns on, the flame will rise and fall inconsistently. The auger becomes very slow about dropping pellets at times, causing the flame to completely go out. I had the stove professionally cleaned inside and out, including a total run of the vent pipe; this did not seem to help. Any idea what is causing this? The stove is 14 years old. Thanks in advance for your help.

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us. If it appears the auger feed and pellet fuel is intermittent when providing pellets to the burnpot, I would lean towards this possibly being an auger motor issue. If the auger motor starts to get weak we will see issues like this. Cleaning is a major part of proper operation, so glad to hear that's all been checked out. Is your original auger motor in your Castile? Happy to help. Thanks,

[@dennisbaker7588]

Hello. I have a Harman Allure50 pellet stove and I'm getting an open door warning and it won't even try to start. The gasket is in good shape but maybe I should try to change it out anyway. Could it be the pressure switch?

[@EarthSense]

Hey Dennis, Happy to help. I would check the hose going to the pressure switch and if that is good make sure that there is not an air leak or obstruction elsewhere. It would most likely be something that would be tripping the vacuum switch that is causing the issue with the door open error. Keep us posted, we're happy to assist. Thanks!

[@dugansz]

Have a 2002 Quadra fire santa fe with 3 speed fan switch on back. Works fine on Med and high settings. I like to run on low since it is in a small space. I have determined i have a vacuum issue. I can jump out the vac switch leads and it works fine on low . I assumed the vacuum switch is ok because i can hear the contact move when i shake the switch in my hand. I was told not to blow in it because you could damage it. I hooked a manometer to the hose ( connected to the burn chamber) with the vac switch jumped and the pressure fluctuates between 0.00 inches of wc and 0.05 inches of wc, it is one or the other, nothing in between. What confused me on this model also is there is no gasket on ash pan and it doesn't lock in place. How can the burn chamber be air tight to create vacuum? Thanks Jim

[@EarthSense]

Hey Jim, Thanks for the message, happy to help. Running this past one of our lead Quadra-Fire techs to get his insight. Will follow-up with you very shortly. Appreciated.

[@EarthSense]

Good Morning Jim, Notes here from our lead tech: First, on low fire, the Quad proper magnehelic reading for low fire should be between .10 and .13 depending on individual factors. Yes, all Quad ash pans for all stoves do not require gaskets because the negative pressure zone is above the fire box plate supporting the burn pot. Some Quads do have gaskets on the ash pan such as the Mt Vernon and Castile fs but this is to prevent ash spillage out of that compartment. For this particular stove and problem and considering it’s age, the first suspect is the burn pot gasket. The simple way to check is to aggressively pull the pork chop handle and watch the burn pot. The burn pot should not in any way move and if it does it signals either a loose pot or a gasket that has disintegrated to the point of needing replacement. Considering this is a 2002 and the burn pot were to move while pulling open the chop, replacing the gasket and cleaning the likely rust below the pot rim is the main recommendation. Let's also make sure to check the door gasket seal to ensure it's tight all the way around. Please keep us posted with what you find Jim. Thanks,

[@r.l.saunders5286]

I have a harman advance stove, I believe there is an issue surrounding the pressure switch. I can jump the switch and everything is fine. Upon inspection I found that mice have chewed a hole into the tube leading to the pressure switch. I have clipped it and shortened the tube and have it attached to the nipple on the pressure switch. What I cannot figure out is...where does the other end go? It appears to lead up into an open hole into a cast iron tube but does it just rest inside the hole, does it connect to another nipple inside the tube somewhere?

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us. Glad you discovered the issue with the hose and remedied that. Depending on the year Advance model you have, there were some changes with how and where the pressure/vacuum switch hose connects to. In some models there is a nipple connection, in earlier models the hose goes into a hole in the feed system area. It sounds in your case that you have the feed system install. It's important to make sure the hose is not gunked up or melted in the feed system hole - you should be able to blow on the hose into the feed system freely. If everything seems free and clear, place the hose inside of the feed system hole and use high temperature silicone sealant around the hose to ensure it's sealed tight. Let us know if that makes sense. Happy to help. Silicone Reference: pellethead.com/product/nuflex-high-temperature-black-silicone-sealant-adhesive-2-8-oz/ Replacement Vacuum Switch Hose Reference: pellethead.com/product/harman-heatilator-vacuum-differential-pressure-switch-silicone-tubing-hose-aftermarket/

[@CharlesCutler]

Having an issue with my Classic Bay not running on medium and low settings. I replaced the thermal couple, which was needed, as the stove was not running past the start-up cycle but still cannot run on lower settings. I am wondering if the vacuum hose gets clogged will this switch work correctly? I tried blowing through my hose and could hardly get any air through. Thank you for your help!

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us, happy to help. Yes, I would suggest inspecting the vacuum switch and exhaust motor voltage. If fuel feed is cutting off not allowing the unit to run on Medium or Low and you have just recently replaced the TC, these would be the next areas to check. Make sure the hose doesn't have any cracks or breaks and is making a secure connection on both ends. You should be able to gently suck and blow and feel the diaphragm opening and closing in the vacuum switch. Combustion/Exhaust motor should be near line voltage on start-up. Once it signals proof of fire from the thermocouple (TC) it will go into normal operating mode. High should still be around line voltage, medium 10-15 volts less, low 10-20 volts less - (roughly). See if the motor is dropping voltage drastically when running in normal operation on the different H,M,L settings. Also good to clean the motor housing and vent pipe - could simply be ash blockage/build-up. Always start with the basics first. Keep us posted, happy to help.

[@keithgreen8529]

Thank you , I have a Harman Advance, and as soon as I plug it in, the fuse pops. I've checked all connections, and will jump the pressure switch next. I don't see a connection for the auger motor that I can undo to see if that is what is not working ? any help would be greatly appreciated TY Keith

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us. If your fuse is popping when you plug the unit in we have a direct electrical short somewhere. Does it happen when you plug it in and the dial is set to off, or does it happen when you turn the dial to Stove Temp/Room Temp? That will be helpful as we determine the culprit here. Let's inspect every wire in the stove starting with the combustion blower and Igniter. Most likely we have a bare wire somewhere touching metal and creating this short. Keep us posted, happy to help.

[@richardsorensen2057]

My Heatilator PS 35 stopped feeding pellets the other night.I ran a jumper wire where the vac switch was and it started feeding pellets again.I bought a new vac switch and noticed something interesting. If I don't mount it on the back of the stove where it belongs it works fine. When I move the switch to mount it as soon as I get it in the correct position it still works until I fasten it in place then it wont work. Even before it comes in contact with the metal it will stop working. I can do the same thing with the old switch too. I checked the gaskets, made sure there were no blockages, made sure the rubber tube was good and clear of blockages, everything works fine. It actually runs fine when its not mounted but I just tried it briefly as it most likely isn't safe. Do you think the new switch is bad too or is it something else ? What do you think ? I appreciate your help.Thanks.

[@EarthSense]

Hey Richard, thanks for contacting us. Would you be able to send us a picture of how it's installed? The Heatilator Vac Switch needs to be vertically installed. Can we confirm the WC reading on the vac switch to ensure you have the correct replacement? You can send the image over to [e-mail]. Happy to assist!

[@richardsorensen2057]

@@EarthSense After a few hours of running the old switch un attached I fastened it on the back of the stove the way it should be and have had no problems ever since. If it stops working again I will get back to you. Thanks

[@EarthSense]

@@richardsorensen2057 Great to hear Richard, thanks for letting us know. Always here to help, warmest regards.

[@bluestone345]

Hi. Great videos and very helpful. I have a Harman Accentra Pellet Stove insert. Recently, the control board stopped working. Looks like no power is getting to the board. I checked the fuse and it is good. Checked that I'm getting power to the power cord - good there. Could this pressure switch be the cause for not getting the control board to fire up? What other recommendations can you provide for me to check? Thank you!!

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for the message, happy to help. So you are not seeing any lights on the control board in either room temp or stove temp mode? No power light, no status light? The pressure switch only has control over the auger feed motor - it would not come into play here with the control board not getting power. I would suggest you double check the wires and main molex wire connection coming to the control board. Make sure those connections are solid. Look for any exposed wires, poor connections, or burnt areas on the circuit board itself. If there is proper line voltage coming from the outlet, and the power cord shows that proper voltage is coming through, it can only be something with the control/circuit board itself. Check the simple things first. If still zero power coming to the board, I would suggest taking the control board to your local dealer so they can test it. If you do not have a local dealer, we do offer control board testing and diagnostic services. If it comes to that we can provide further details. Do you have the stove plugged into a surge protector? Were there any lightning strikes or voltage spikes that occurred since you last used the stove? Happy to help, thanks.

[@bluestone345]

@@EarthSense Hi again and thank you for the speedy reply. Correct. No power at all at the control board. Looking at the board I see no signs of burning or damage. Good to know about the pressure switch. This insert is a beast to pull out of the fireplace, but I'll do so to check the wiring you suggested. Yes, the unit is on a surge protector. Again, thanks so much for the help and I'll let you know what I find out!

[@EarthSense]

@@bluestone345 Happy to help buddy. Yes, keep us posted with what you find - again this could just be an improper/loose wire connection to the control board. I know it's a beast to pull out, just make sure you have good light and I would suggest to have the unit unplugged when you are touching the circuity and wire connections. Keep us informed of what you see/find. Thanks!

[@bluestone345]

@@EarthSense Ok update here. You were spot on with checking the simple stuff first. Turns out I had a wall outlet that was not fully engaging the surge protector when plugged in. My pellet stove is connected to the surge protector. And so, I was getting on again/off again power to the stove. Problem solved; however, I'm occasionally seeing another issue. The Status LED will sometimes blink 6 times for about 10 min and then the stove will shut off. I THINK its a problem with not enough temp differential between the incoming combustion air, and the exiting exhaust air (?). Are there temp sensors that I can check with a multi-meter? And are they DYI'able?

[@EarthSense]

@@bluestone345 That's excellent! So glad to hear you were able to get the electrical/power issue solved, great job! 6 Blinks is typically going to mean: 'Indicates the control has calculated poor or incomplete combustion occurring for more than 50 minutes.' 9 times out of 10 the issue here is ash blockage somewhere in the stove or exhaust vent. As ash accumulates it slows down the combustion air flow; we'll often notice not as crisp of a flame, more of a sooty build-up on the glass, and more carbon deposits in the burnpot. Let's Check: 1. Burnpot Holes and Igniter area. Make sure all holes are open and all ash is cleared from the igniter cavity. 2. Pull out the firebox heat exchange panels. There will be air passageways behind them. Let's make sure the passageways are clear and we clean up excess fly-ash. 3. Venting. With an insert it can be challenging to clean the exhaust and venting. On your Accentra insert when you slide it out from the cage, there is an area on the exhaust manifold to clean out ash build-up. Some years have a quick-disconnect on the combustion blower to access the manifold. Exhaust vent we usually recommend running a brush down it every 2-3 tons of fuel and then we use a leafblower vac to suck out the loosened ash which will pull it from the vent and areas of the stove. The sucking/vacuum part of the leafblower you would put on the exterior exhaust and with the stove off and cold, have someone inside opening and closing the firebox door for additional pressure and ash removal. Make sure surrounding windows are closed and the blowing port is faced away from you when performing this. You may also want to inspect and clean your exhaust ESP probe while you are checking/cleaning other areas. If there is significant build-up on the probe it can create the 6 blink sequence as well. Here's a quick video on cleaning that one. kzbin.info/www/bejne/oaWan6F9gr6IY80 Keep us posted!

[@donnaholts2205]

Hi there, my auger motor is making a whining noise periodically. When the noise happens it does not drop pellets then Fire goes out, eventually after 15 to 25 minutes or so playing with it (restarting and resetting) it will eventually work fine. Any ideas? "Quadra Fire" Thanks in advance.

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us Donna. 99% of the time when we hear noises coming from the auger motor, that has to do with the gears and bearings in the motor. Oftentimes it is a sign that the motor is on it's way out and is getting weak. Depending on which Quadra-Fire model you have there are different auger motors. Here are the various auger motors we offer for Quadra-Fire. pellethead.com/?s=quadrafire+auger+motor Any other questions or help needed just let us know. Thanks,

[@cameronsimpson7753]

I have a 2006 XXV that takes forever to light in manual mode. I light with gel and lighter, but the stove won’t feed pellets or kick on distribution blower for sometimes up to 30 minutes after I initially light it. Any tips? My thought are control board or ESP. Should my ESP be black or red?

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us. The ESP probe has to reach a set temperature during the start-up cycle to go into normal operation mode. I would suggest cleaning the ESP probe first - Here is a video on that - kzbin.info/www/bejne/oaWan6F9gr6IY80 Your ESP Probe wire color will depend on your serial number: For the XXV, Serial # 008206292 and higher - Red ESP Probe Wire. Black ESP Probe Wire, Pre Serial # 008206292. Keep us posted, happy to help. Out of curiosity, why do you manually light the fire instead of auto ignition?

[@cameronsimpson7753]

@@EarthSense you guys are awesome. I’m going to try this. And if I need a new one, I’ll be ordering it off of your site!

[@EarthSense]

@@cameronsimpson7753 Glad we can help! If you have any other questions or need reference links just let us know! Appreciated!

[@leewalker9041]

I guy's I have a enviro mini. I have cleaned the stove and used it several time Sense and it has always let. But this morning it would not light. Everything seems to be working fine now. I can lite the stove manually and it runs just fine. It just won't start on its on. Any idea?

[@EarthSense]

Hey Lee, thanks for contacting us. I think the first thing to do would be to test the igniter to see if it is good or bad. 32.5 - 39.0 is the Ohm range for the Enviro Mini igniter. If you have a basic multi-meter you can check the ohm range. Let us know what you find - here is a video that will walk you through testing the igniter kzbin.info/www/bejne/sGXannaZbpuljKs

[@davidjacobsen4411]

I have a early model st croix auburn stove, serial wh000349 number 2 diagnostics light comes on in about 20 seconds of start up and stove goes off, vacuum issue?

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us. There has been differences with the style control board used over the years, but generally speaking, yes the #2 diagnostic light will indicate a vacuum error/issue. Here is a video that covers St. Croix error codes kzbin.info/www/bejne/paSyqY2hYr9lkJI Few things to check: 1. Stove and Vent Pipe have been thoroughly cleaned. 2. Door gasket and ash door gasket are sealing well 3. Vacuum switch hose/tubing in tact and connected securely. 4. Combustion Blower running properly during start-up. (Should be near line-voltage on start-up to lock in the vac switch). Check these elements. If all of these look good, then let's troubleshoot the switch itself. Video below. kzbin.info/www/bejne/fHW5nJWpfbhsa7c Keep us posted, happy to help!

[@shotover7719]

I have a manual lite Harmon P61 from the late 90s. My combustion fan will run in test mode but will not run in any other mode. The status light is red and the combustion fan light is also red but is not running. Do I have a clogged vacuum hose or something else? I am replacing the new control board as I think this may be the problem. Thank you!

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us. Given the situation you described with the combustion fan, we would lean towards this being a board issue, ESP Probe issue or a combination of the two. Your vacuum switch and tubing would not come into play with the operation of your combustion fan. Our techs say most likely this is a control board issue. If you haven't recently, give the ESP Probe a good cleaning and see if anything changes with the operation. Here's a video going through that if you need reference. kzbin.info/www/bejne/oaWan6F9gr6IY80 Keep us posted, happy to help.

[@brianlarose4246]

I have a p-43 that stopped feeding pellets . I used a jumper wire and it works. I bought a NEW pressure switch, same problem auger don’t feed. Could it be the new faulty switch?

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us Brian. There is a possibility that the new pressure switch could be bad, however that would be rare. I would suggest checking areas of the unit and venting that would trip that switch first. 1. Door Gasket & Ash Pan Gasket. Tight seal all the way around. 2. Hopper Lid Seal - Hopper Lid Closed and Tight 2. Vent Pipe - No Obstructions 3. Air Intake (Underneath the burnpot to the rear. If you have outside air coming in check that pipe) - No Obstructions 4. Combustion Blower Running at Proper Voltage. During start-up that motor should be giving a reading near line voltage in order to lock in the pressure switch. Let's take a look at these items first before we come to the conclusion that the pressure switch is bad/faulty. Happy to assist. Thanks,

[@edmondfitz7085]

Might I add, check the hose from the source to the switch. Often times these hoses dry out and crack, thus losing vacuum to the switch. I always replace the hose when I replace the switch and thoroughly inspect it during annual maintenance. Hope this helps. Fitz

[@suganuts6744]

My current switch is riveted to the back. Also bracket poking out. Does it matter where we mount this?

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for the message. The position of the switch when mounted matters, the mounting orientation does not. Pay attention to the nozzles that your hose connects to and what position they are in (up, down, angled, etc..) and mount the new switch the same way. You can mount it to a different area, just make sure it's not to close to your combustion blower or rear firewall and that your hose is long enough for connection on the new mount location. Any other questions please let us know. Thanks!

[@suganuts6744]

I'll give that a try. The current switch will rum the auger motor for a short time, but pressure and time the motor turns off. The new switch doesn't even turn the motor on when auger light shines. Verifies switch. Will try to mount exactly like prior switch

[@EarthSense]

@@suganuts6744 Thanks for the info. Keep us posted how things are running. Appreciated.

[@keriblackrock5568]

I have a king pellet 5502m and I did the usual cleaning maintenance on it but now the sides of the stove are hot to touch. Before the outsides were warm but it’s hot enough to melt my sweater. Could this be caused of a bad switch or an air leak?

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us, happy to help. This wouldn't be the cause of a switch or air leak. Were there interior firebox panels that were removed and not placed back in during maintenance? Did you switch to a different pellet? Running the stove on higher settings? Generally speaking ash build-up will insulate and not allow as much heat to be produced out of the unit. If there were interior firewall brick panels or insulation board in place we will want to make sure those are in there. Generally on low settings the 5502M unit will be warm to the touch on the exterior panels. On medium and high settings it can get very hot to the touch. The type of pellet will make a difference as well. Important to keep proper clearances as outlined in the manual. The 5502M Does have a high limit safety switch in place. If the unit is to exceed safe operating temperatures this switch will shut the feed down allowing the unit to go into cool down. How does your fire look? Is it crisp and torchy or is lazy/wavy? Happy to assist. Thanks,

[@keriblackrock5568]

@@EarthSense thank you for getting back to me so quickly. There were no interior firewall or insulation boards. I just performed the normal cleaning maintenance. The current settings are HR-1, RF-5, and the DF-1. The fire goes between lazy/wavy to a high flame going into the auger for a couple seconds and goes back down to lazy and wavy.

[@keriblackrock5568]

@@EarthSense We are using Lignetics Green Supreme pellets.

[@EarthSense]

@@keriblackrock5568 Thanks for the message back Keri, happy to help. Anytime we see a lazy/wavy flame that would be a direct indication we have an issue that needs to be addressed. Our goal is to see a crisp, clean burning, torchy efficient fire on all heat output settings. Few things to run through: 1. Cleaning: I know you mentioned you just completed the maintenance. Let's make sure we have thoroughly checked and cleaned all ash traps, exhaust venting pipe and any access points by the exhaust manifold. Accumulated ash in areas we often don't see is always the #1 cause for poor air flow. 2. Gaskets: Let's check the door gaskets. We need to make sure they are sealed tight all the way around. On a cold stove, stick a dollar bill half in and half out, close the door and pull it out. Should be heavy resistance all the way around. Check your ash pan door as well if that is applicable on your model. 3. Burnpot: Let's check the burnpot seating to ensure it's properly in place. Let's check the burnpot holes/grates to make sure they are free and clear. 4. Air Intake: Let's check the air intake tube/channel coming into the burnpot. Let's make sure there are no obstructions. 5. Let's check your exhaust motor/combustion fan voltage. Should be running near line voltage during start-up. Let's check the basics first. Keep us posted with what you find. Thanks!

[@EarthSense]

@@keriblackrock5568 Thanks Keri. Lignetics Green Supreme offers several types. For your model we would recommend their Cascade Softwood or Hood River Douglas fir for the best heat output with the least amount of ash and burnpot residue/clean-up. You will notice a big difference in your model from hardwoods to softwoods. Softwoods will burn hotter and leave less clinkers and build-up in your burnpot.

[@mattline5196]

I have a Npi45 pellet stove and it works if I do the bypass of the vacuum switch but not if I hook up to the switch. I have tried 2 different switches now.

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us Matt, happy to help. If the switch is tripping when connected like that and we know it's not the switch itself, we have a pressure loss issue somewhere in the unit. 1. Check your door gasket seal and ash door gasket seal if applicable. Make sure you are getting a tight seal all the way around. 2. Check your glass gasket - tight seal all the way around. 3. Check the ash traps in your stove and exhaust vent pipe. Any ash build-up/restrictions will trip the vacuum. 4. Check your combustion blower housing for any ash blockages. 5. Check the voltage on your combustion blower. Needs to be near line voltage on start-up to lock in the vacuum switch. 6. Check your vacuum switch tubing - make sure there are no cracks or breaks. Hope that is helpful, keep us posted. Thanks,

[@roberthenderson5427]

Which is the negative pressure nozzle on a Huba 20/10 pa 60598879 pressure switch, p1 or p2. Thank you

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us. Not familiar with this pressure switch or model - Generally speaking all pressure switches and vacuum switches will have a marking of + or - next to the Nozzles. Get a good light and see if you can see any markings inscribed on the switch. Thanks.

[@milagrossmith4891]

I have the englander 49 trcpm. 49 shcpm pellet stove and opened up the back to change the vacuum switch. I saw another video that said this stove has two of them. After checking it carefully all over the place I only found one vacuum switch. The c u v s. Not the puvs. Could it be in another spot that I am missing? Please advise I already bought the u v s but I cannot use it because it doesn't fit thank you

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us. I do know there were some variances over the years with many of the Englander models and components used. I just pulled up the owners manual for your model and the electrical schematic only shows 1 vacuum switch and the parts breakdown lists the replacement vacuum switch as Part Number CU-VS. Page 25 & 26 will be these references on the link below. archive.org/details/manualzilla-id-7351952/page/26/mode/2up If the CU-VS switch is not fitting there may be an issue/error with the switch received or if you have an earlier model you may need to reconfigure the mount. Happy to help however we can, thanks!

[@milagrossmith4891]

Thank you for this information. After much research I also found that my particular model only had one vacuum switch. I already ordered it thank you

[@EarthSense]

@@milagrossmith4891 Great to hear Milagros. Keep us posted if you need any other assistance. Happy to help. Thanks.

[@jestradabmw540i]

ok so , my pellet stove is a KOZY and i have a question, my blower fan does not turn on anymore, and i’ve always cleaned it , do i need to replace my sensor or do i get a new blower fan ??

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us Jesus. I would recommend doing some isolated tests to determine if it's the blower or the safety sensor. Video below on creating a test cord. Let's run your blower to direct wall power to see how it's working. Video below on creating a 'Jumper Wire' to bypass the blower Thermodisk. This is ONLY for testing, we NEVER want to leave a safety sensor bypassed. Let us know what you find, thanks. Test Cord: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qJ3QmnaPfpeKhs0 Jumper: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fHW5nJWpfbhsa7c Let us know what Kozi model you have as well. Thanks!

[@StewieGriffin505]

I have a vacuum problem with my Napoleon NPI45. I located the exhaust vacuum switch and bypassed it and the auger started feeding. I manually checked the switch with an ohmmeter and it closes when I suck gently on the tube. However, if I start the stove, I cannot feel any vacuum at the switch end of the tube. I can also blow into the stove just fine through the tube. The tube is also fine. Why is there no vacuum? The door gasket also looks fine.

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us. Somewhere we have an air loss or air blockage. Yes, important to make sure the door gasket is sealing well all the way around. Inspect the glass gasket seal as well and if there is a hopper lid seal inspect that too. Inspect the combustion blower motor. It should be running near line voltage on start-up to create the vacuum needed to close the switch. Make sure the exhaust venting and air intake to the burnpot have no obstructions. Keep us posted, happy to help.

[@dougpatocka8095]

I have an American Harvester model 6037. The pressure switch has two ports on it and I can not find where they both hook up to. I have not been able to find a good schematic.

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us Doug. I believe there is just a single hose in the 6037 that goes to the negative (-) pressure port. I would suggest however you double check with the manufacturer. I found an owners manual online, schematic on pg 20, but doesn't show the pressure switch tubing connection/s. Owners Manual: pdfstream.manualsonline.com/c/c2fc6d2f-795b-4625-92c9-ee4c59544f6f.pdf Manufacturer Site: www.usstove.com/

[@mariahjunker4977]

Would this part keep the blower motor from turning on? Igniter heats up. Pellets feed into the pot and the exhaust motor powers on

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us. No, the vacuum switch will only be in-line with the auger motor. Several stove models have a low limit switch that turns on the convection/distribution blower once the stove is hot enough - other units have the start-up cycle and blower cycle programmed into the control board. What stove make and model do you have? You can also test your blower to direct power to ensure the motor itself is operating correctly. Here's a video on creating a test cord to do this. kzbin.info/www/bejne/qJ3QmnaPfpeKhs0si=patXZZws5GHT8hnQ Send us a bit more info - happy to help get you back up and running again. Thanks!

[@ronhedin3813]

Hey brother I hav a harmon 52i Just replaced burn pot and igniter cleaned unit aswell! But igniter not working.. auger is feeding pellets but not lighting .. does that mean my issue is not a air leak?? Igniter light is lit up as well I'm assuming that my issue is something else any ideas?

[@EarthSense]

Hey Ron, Thanks for message, happy to help! We can check the ohms on the igniter to verify it's in proper range. Rare for a new igniter to be bad, but good to verify that it's not the culprit. Ohms for your igniter should read between 45.0-53.0 ohms. It is the air rushing past the element that starts the fire. Let's make sure we have checked - 1. Air intake to the firepot - make sure nothing is blocking/restricting. When you remove the front cover on the burnpot, use a good light to see all the way into the air intake cavity. 2. Burnpot Holes are open and clear 3. Burnpot Igniter area cleaned out and cover plate is on securely. 4. Front door sealing well and hopper door sealing well. 5. Combustion blower appears to be running near line voltage during start-up. Let's start with the simple things first and go from there. Here is our igniter blog on testing the element - pellethead.com/how-to-test-and-replace-a-stove-igniter-pellet-stove-ignition-troubleshooting/ Keep us posted, happy to help!

[@wassaba03]

THe blower fan, which usualy comes on once the stove reaches TEmp. , is stuck on High. I have cleaned the inside of the stove, the exhaust pipe, I have bypassed the vac. switch using a jumper wire and checked the vac. hose for any blockage, all with negative results. I have unplugged and plugged the stove back in, and the fan blower runs on constant high. The stove does not engage in ignition mode at all. I'm wondering if this is a combustion fan issue? (I am running and Enviro-Empress pellet insert, about 10 years old)

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us Daniel. If your room air blower/convection fan is running on high constantly, I would lean that towards being some kind of an issue with the control board/circuit board. When you adjust heat settings on the Empress, the control board is determining the voltage that is going to both the combustion fan and the convection blower. It could be the board is also having an issue with the ignition sequence, but I would suggest checking the ohms on the igniter first to determine if the element is in proper range. (We have a video up on how to do that as well). There are some dealers out there that offer control board inspection and repair, we only offer the replacement parts. I would suggest you first do a visual inspection of the control board to see if anything looks off or burnt. Hope that is helpful. Thanks!

[@wassaba03]

@@EarthSense Thank you. I determined the high temp limit switch had tripped. Pressed the red button in and it fixed the issue. Stove had been operating normally for two days now, no issues. DId a thourough cleaning of inside and out while I had the stove out of the fireplace.

[@EarthSense]

@@wassaba03 Excellent to hear Daniel! Very glad you are warm once again. Great job getting on the thorough cleaning - it makes a world of difference. Any future questions just let us know, very appreciated!

[@pattyshepard8568]

I have a Peasant Hearth ph50cabps that flashes 4 red lights a few ties a week. If I unplug it, it will again work fine for a while. The other day it started, burned up the starting pellets, went out with 4 red lights. I started it again and it did the same thing. The third start it's been working fine for a day. What do I need to check?

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contating us. The owners manual will state that 4 blinks indicates missed ignition. It's odd that you see that sequence of lights after startup. Is your unit operating on a thermostat? For missed ignition failures we would recommend the following. - Checking the igniter ohms - - Thoroughly cleaning the burnpot, firebox area, and exhaust vent piping. - Checking the door, glass, and ash door glass gasket seals where applicable. - Combustion Blower/Exhaust fan operation. Here is a blog article that will cover a bit more in regards to ignition and testing - pellethead.com/how-to-test-and-replace-a-stove-igniter-pellet-stove-ignition-troubleshooting/ Here is owners manual for reference - blinks indicated on page 35. manuals.plus/pleasant-hearth/pleasant-hearth-high-efficiency-pellet-stove-ph35ps-ph50ps-ph50cabps-manual-pdf Keep us posted, happy to help. Thanks.

[@jenniferseibel2863]

I have the same one same issue. I have already had to change the auger motor myself wasn't a hard thing to do but now it has 4 blinks failed to ignite. I clean everything vacuumed the ash pot, behind the panels and the exhaust pipe. Did you ever figure out what was wrong with yours?

[@idahopotato5837]

If it's a closed circuit can you remove it and hook up a continuity tester and blow into the switch and open the circuit to test it? Would like to actually test the switch for functionality. Or does vacuum trip it?

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for the message David, happy to help. Some stoves will have a vacuum switch that just has a negative pressure nozzle and some will have both a negative and positive pressure nozzle. By blowing into and sucking, you should be able to hear the diaphragm inside the vacuum switch opening and closing. You can check continuity of this with your multi-meter. You can check the tubing for any cracks or breaks. On rare occasions we have seen vacuum switches be intermittent with locking in and opening back up. Generally the switch will either be good or bad. If you need any more troubleshooting help or have further questions about your stove just let us know. Thanks,

[@dugansz]

@@EarthSense Have a 2002 Quadra fire santa fe with 3 speed fan switch on back. Works fine on Med and high settings. I like to run on low since it is in a small space. I have determined i have a vacuum issue. I can jump out the vac switch leads and it works fine on low . I assumed the vacuum switch is ok because i can hear the contact move when i shake the switch in my hand. I was told not to blow in it because you could damage it. I hooked a manometer to the hose ( connected to the burn chamber) with the vac switch jumped and the pressure fluctuates between 0.00 inches of wc and 0.05 inches of wc, it is one or the other, nothing in between. What confused me on this model also is there is no gasket on ash pan and it doesn't lock in place. How can the burn chamber be air tight to create vacuum? Thanks Jim

[@craigcoker6228]

Is the hose leaving the v switch should i be able to blow threw it mine seems cligged

[@EarthSense]

If you pull off the hose and gently suck and blow you should hear the diaphragm in the vacuum switch open and close. In most stoves the tube either goes in to the combustion blower housing, feed chamber or rear firewall. In most applications you should be able to blow through the hose yes. Check for ash build-up/blockage in the area where the hose is connected. Thanks.

[@richardkunicki5684]

I have a Heatilator ECO Choice PS 35 experiencing vacuum issues. I have troubleshot all the issues. Thoroughly cleaned inside including exhaust fan as well as possible from the fire box. Removed the auger and cleaned and cleared any dust from the auger tube vacuum port. Removed vacuum switch and used a ohm meter and sucked on the tube and watched the switch function. Jumpered the terminals and the auger will turn. So now I can only guess what is wrong. The door gasket is not deteriorated at all unit was new April 2018. No gasket on ash drawer, but evidently not enough draft to activate the switch. Do you have any thoughts? Thank You

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us Richard, happy to help. Sounds like you have done quite a bit already. 1. Let's check the vacuum switch hose/tube - Make sure there are no cracks and it's tightly secured. 2. Let's double check the exhaust venting and make sure there are no obstructions 3. Let's do a dollar bill test around the door to check the gasket. Half in, half out, close the door, see how much resistance you have when pulling out. Check multiple spots around the door. Should be heavy resistance. 4. Let's check the voltage on the combustion blower. Should be near line voltage on start-up to lock in the vacuum switch. If no changes, let us know the reading you are getting on the vacuum switch and we can verify if it's correct with our tech team. Keep us posted, thanks.

[@richardkunicki5684]

@@EarthSense Thank you so much for your help. Did the door check, fairly easy to pull out bill along the top of the door. Definitely much less resistance than on the latch, bottom and hinge side, where I thought the bill would tear. Starting voltage on the combustion motor is 120 Volts and 115 on line side of vacuum switch. I shunted out the vacuum switch and the stove started up with the auger loading I then shut off. Should I just take a chance and replace the gasket as step 1. Thanks again

[@EarthSense]

@@richardkunicki5684 Thanks for the message Richard, happy to help. Here's what I would initially recommend to see if our door gasket is the culprit. Pull out the gasket on the top of the door where there was little resistance. Put an additional bead of high temperature silicone behind it and place the gasket back in the groove. let it set-up for a few hours and then close the door. Check the resistance again with the dollar bill. This is generally what we will do when it's just one area of the gasket that doesn't seem to be sealing as tight as it should. Here is our high temp silicone for reference, you should be able to grab this from any main box store as well. pellethead.com/product/nuflex-high-temperature-black-silicone-sealant-adhesive-2-8-oz/ Keep us posted. Thanks!

[@EFudd-lu6ji]

Having problems with the auger dropping pellets a few minutes after the stove starts up. Shorting the vacuum switch fixes the issue. Is there any way to isolate the root cause to either the exhaust side or the firebox side (assuming the vacuum switch is good)?

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us. I'm not aware of any way to isolate that. Few things. 1. Most Common - Ash blockage. Make sure your stove traps, exhaust manifold and exhaust venting has been thoroughly cleaned. You can use the sucking end of a leafblower/vac on the outside vent and that will help pull out ash in difficult to access areas. 2. Check your gaskets. Gasket around the door, glass and ash pan if applicable need to be sealing tight all the way around. Use a dollar bill, half in, half out, close the door, and see how much resistance there is when pulling the dollar bill out. Check spots all the way around the door, should be heavy resistance. 3. Depending on the model, some also check vacuum/pressure in the fuel hopper. Make sure the hopper door is shut. 4. You can use a multi-meter and check your exhaust fan voltage. Should be near line voltage on start-up to lock in the vacuum switch. 5. Check the vacuum switch tubing. Make sure there are no splits or cracks and that it is connected properly on both ends. If all of that checks out, then more than likely it's the switch itself that is faulty. Keep us posted and let us know of any other questions. Thanks!

[@EFudd-lu6ji]

@@EarthSense Thank you for your very detailed reply - it is greatly appreciated! This is now this weekends project. I'll let you know how I make out. Thanks again for your time.

[@EarthSense]

@@EFudd-lu6ji Absolutely! Happy to help. Keep us posted!

[@EFudd-lu6ji]

@@EarthSense It's fixed - thanks to you!!! The issue was ash blockage. I cleaned everything you mentioned, including the chimney pipe and everything is (now) working great. Thanks again for your advice.

[@EarthSense]

@@EFudd-lu6ji Fantastic to hear!! Thanks so much for letting us know; so glad we were able to help and get you back up and running again! Any future questions or needs just let us know. Warmest Regards!

[@user-ck7go2ru2f]

My Quadrafire 1200 augur motor recently quit. We replaced it. Not sure if this problem is even related, but now the stove continually calls for heat. It will not shut off even when the wall thermostat is disconnected. Not sure what part we need for this fix. Any ideas?

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us. Did you physically disconnect the thermostat wires from the terminal block or did you just turn the Thermostat down? If you just turned the thermostat down all the way it could be an issue with the Thermostat itself. If you disconnected the wires and it is still calling for heat that would be very odd as that is the power point for the stove - Only thing I can think of in that case would be the control box. If you have a local dealer you can possibly take the control box in for testing. If the previous auger that went out had a short circuit it could potentially have damaged the control board. Keep us posted, happy to help!

[@user-ck7go2ru2f]

Thank you so much for the help. I have ordered a new control box from your store. @@EarthSense

[@EarthSense]

@@user-ck7go2ru2f Always happy to help, we appreciate your business. Be sure to inspect all wiring with a good light before putting in the control box. Also inspect the igniter element and wires. We want to make sure there are no bare wires and nothing is grounding or shorting out before you install the new control box. Any questions as you go just let us know. Thanks!

[@davedewey5017]

Hi, I am trying to diagnosis a tripped low pressure switch on my Hampton GC160. It is about 6 years old and I do a full cleaning of the stove pipe yearly and the stove once a week. I changed to door and ash pan gaskets to season and the dollar bill test seemed fine. My stove is an insert and my question is how do i test the exhaust fan because I can't get to the wires while the stove is running?

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us Dave. Glad to hear the cleaning of the stove and vent is thorough and that you have replaced and checked the gaskets. Yes I would agree that the next area to check will be the exhaust fan, housing, and vent connection. Sometimes in stove & insert models that ash can get trapped in the exhaust fan housing and in the Tee or 90 degree elbow connecting the exhaust fan snout to the venting pipe. Depending on installation it can be difficult to pull the unit out enough while leaving the vent connected. Are you able to create enough room where you can check the venting connection? Oftentimes with insert installations there is a cleanout cap on the vent that can be checked/removed for cleaning. If you do have to disconnect the vent, make sure you use high temp sealant when re-connecting so there are no exhaust leaks. Oftentimes to do service work on insert models we do have to disconnect the vent and pull the unit out. With the unit disconnected, you can thoroughly check the vent and exhaust housing for ash blockages. You can take the stove outside to run it as an option. You can also run the blower to direct power with a test cord - kzbin.info/www/bejne/qJ3QmnaPfpeKhs0. Let's also check the pressure switch tubing to make sure it's not cracked or disconnected. FOR TROUBLESHOOTING PURPOSES ONLY, we can jump the pressure switch. We never want to leave a safety switch bypassed, but this can help us in troubleshooting where the issue might be or if the switch itself is faulty. kzbin.info/www/bejne/fHW5nJWpfbhsa7c Lastly, a leafblower/vac can be a great tool especially for insert models to pull out the fly ash that's in difficult to access areas of the vent or exhaust fan housing. You place the sucking part of the blower on the outside exhaust while the stove is off and cool and have someone inside opening and closing the front stove door to create further suction/vacuum. Reference: pellethead.com/product/toro-vacuum-leafblower-pellet-corn-stove-exhaust-vent-cleaning-system-3-4-venting/ Keep us posted, happy to help.

[@davedewey5017]

@@EarthSense the design of the stove is such that the exhaust port "plugs into" the fixed portion of the vent in the permanently installed in the outer case of the stove. As soon as I slide the stove forward to access the back, it disconnects from the chimney. If I slide the stove out and disconnect the exhaust assy from the stove and use a test cord, will that give me an accurate presentation of the motor performance?

[@EarthSense]

@@davedewey5017 Thanks for the message Dave, appreciate you covering that. On a test cord it's going to run the fan at line voltage. In most cases if there is an issue with the motor it will not operate properly at line voltage. In some cases however, the issue may be with lower voltages. Generally on start-up the fan will run near line voltage. After start-up depending on the heat setting it can vary from 75-105V on average. If one had a rheostat in line with the test cord you could throttle the voltage to check performance at lower levels. Let us know what you are able to do. Thanks.

[@davedewey5017]

@@EarthSense hi guys. Opened up the stove again. vacuumed everything again including the combustion port. Cleaned and vacuumed the stove, checked the gasket gap on the door and ash pan and it was fine. But the stove was very sooty after just 5 bags of "brand new" to me brand of pellets. Apparently my stove doesn't like the new pellets. Poured in a bag of my regular pellets and it has been working fine for 24 hours now. no issues. Moral of the story, beware of trying something new. Stay with the tried and true. Thanks for your advice.

[@user-uk6lw1rc5i]

i have a Harmon p43 pellet stove i arrived home from work today stove was in off position and both fans were running Unplugged stove and fans went off plugged back in fans came on and stayed on until i unplugged Any ideas HELP!! ThANKS

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us, happy to help. I would suggest to start by cleaning your ESP probe and seeing if the issue resolves. If it does not resolve after cleaning it, it could be a faulty ESP probe, a control board issue, or a combo of the two. Start with the easiest first and we are happy to guide you in the right direction. Here is a helpful video for cleaning the ESP Thermister Probe. kzbin.info/www/bejne/oaWan6F9gr6IY80si=2pqroFYbvEXOyg6e Thanks,

[@gracierosemiller4411]

I know your video is old but I purchased a combustion blower from you and my Pelpro P130 still wouldn't work so I bypassed the vacuum switch and purchased a new vacuum switch from you. The stove will still not work as long as I bypass the vacuum switch the auger motor starts working and everything is fine. The problem is I can't leave it this way because the pellets are dropping too fast. Any advice on what could be wrong at this point? It is cleaned very very well including the pipe going outside etc.

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us. Yes, we only want to bypass a safety switch for troubleshooting purposes, we never want to leave it bypassed in operation. The vacuum switch does not control the rate of feed in the stove, it simply allows the auger motor to have power when it is operating correctly. 99% of the time when it appears that too much fuel is feeding, in reality it is not enough air/our air flow is being blocked or lost. With what you are saying, I believe there is an area in your stove that needs to be addressed for the vacuum switch to work properly and the unit to operate as it should. I know you mentioned you cleaned it very well. Double check the manual to make sure you are getting ash out from all of the ash traps, combustion manifold, and rear firewall. Double check your door, glass, and ash door gasket seals - they need to be tight all the way around. Check your air intake under your burnpot and make sure nothing is obstructing it. Make sure your burnpot is seated properly and all holes are open. Check your combustion blower exhaust fan motor. The voltage on that should be near line voltage on start-up and between 80-105 volts during operation depending on the heat selection. Somewhere in your stove there is either ash buildup or an obstruction blocking the air flow or there is an air loss with a gasket or weak combustion fan. Start with the simple things first. Keep us posted, happy to help.

[@gracierosemiller4411]

@@EarthSense I purchased a new combustion fan and vacum switch from you but the problem now is that the auger isn't turning long enough to get the pellets to the top to feed into the burn pot. It stops rotating to soon can you tell me why that would be?

[@EarthSense]

@@gracierosemiller4411 Thanks for the message. I assume this is happening during the start-up cycle. If you bypass the vacuum switch again does it feed properly on start-up and in operation? If it works correctly bypassed then we have an issue with air in the stove. Either air is being blocked or lost somewhere. If it does the same thing when it is bypassed we either have a failing auger motor or there is something going on with the start sequence in the circuit board. Both can be tested. Keep us posted, we'll get you back to 100%.

[@gracierosemiller4411]

@@EarthSense The auger doesn't turn long enough for the pellets to reach the shoot to be dropped in the fire pot. I have ordered an auger motor and assembly because I think the auger is seized up in the motor. It makes a horrible clunking and grinding noise and when removing the pin the motor does not come away from the auger.

[@ryanbanks5878]

Can a dirty flu cause this switch not to work? Because my stove wouldnt feed and I pulled it out and actually suspected this pressure switch was bad because I had tried everything else so I jumped the wires together to get around it and it works fine. So I plugged the switch back up and tried it again and it worked fine so I thought I had just jarred it enough to make it start working but then I slid my stove back in the fireplace as mine is a insert type stove and it wouldn't work again so I slid it out a little and it worked just fine again but everytime that you slid it all the way in place it wont work. I'm guessing that my flu is just dirty enough that when the stove makes the seal up to the flu when you slide it in it chokes the air flow down and trips that switch is that possible or am I losing it.

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us Ryan. Yes, a dirty or plugged flue will most certainly trip your pressure/vacuum switch. I would suggest a thorough flue inspection and cleaning, also may be good to check your combustion blower housing and any ash traps that may be on your model. The Leafblower/Vac is an excellent tool for the cleaning the exhaust flue; link for reference: pellethead.com/product/toro-vacuum-leafblower-pellet-corn-stove-exhaust-vent-cleaning-system-3-4-venting/ Here are some brush and rod kits as well for reference - pellethead.com/product-category/stove-parts-accessories/stove-accessories-parts/cleaning-stove-accessories-parts/flue-pipe-vent-cleaning-cleaning-stove-accessories-parts/ Any other questions please let us know, and no, you're not losing it :) We have your back, if you need anything let us know. Thanks!

[@Thesaltiestofsandys]

Glad I came across this video. Have an HP50S comfortbilt. Ran flawless all last year, but first fire up this year resulted in it blow torch flame and it running for about 10 minutes before I came back to a loaded burn pot with a low temp fault. Fully re-cleaned the machine, but I was getting a blow torch for a flame, closed the damper up after checking everything, got a more stable flame but I did notice the last time it error coded, I lost my vacuum and feed symbol. So if the cleaning and damper adjustment doesn't solve this, I know where to look next!

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for the message Ryan. Yeah, definitely sounds like a fuel to air ratio balance here. If there is too much air/draft that's exactly what will happen - it will blow the coals out of the firepot and will fill up with un-burnt pellets and it will give a low temp/POF fault. When setting the damper you want to look for a nice crisp fire, crisp tips on the flame, but not where it's blowing chunks of burnt pellets out of the firepot. You may notice that your damper needs slight adjustment between different heat settings and also may need adjustments when you are burning different types/grades of pellets. Cleaning will always be #1. As ash gets trapped in the cavities and passageways it will block the air flow. Again, your fire will always be a great indicator - always look for that nice crisp flame. Any other questions let us know, always happy to help!

[@Thesaltiestofsandys]

@@EarthSense well after a good 4 hour burn and calling it good. I woke up to a 50 degree house and another error code. Burn pot full of pellets, and I had the damper as closed as it could be. Back to square one

[@EarthSense]

@@Thesaltiestofsandys Thanks for the message. In those 4 hours, what did your fire look like? Were you running on a thermostat or manual heat settings? If manual, what setting? How do you have the unit vented out of the wall? Strait out or do you have a vertical rise in the venting or does it go into an existing chimney? I still am leaning towards this being an air to fuel issue we have to work out/fine tune. The more info the better we can help troubleshoot. We'll get it figured out. Thanks!

[@Thesaltiestofsandys]

@@EarthSense was running on temp control set at 68 degrees, flame was perfect. Once it gets to the set temp It has always burned down a ways in the pot and ramps back up keeping a low flame. Its vented strait out about 2 feet then goes vertical once outside for about 4 feet. I pulled the damper all the way open this morning at 8am. I went home to check at 1pm and it's still going strong, house is at 73 degrees with the target temp at for 68.... I'm almost thinking the fuel im burning is just way too light and burning up way too fast. I switched it back to it's weekly setting and I'll see if it goes through it's paces later tonight. I just find it odd it's running better on an open damper

[@EarthSense]

@@Thesaltiestofsandys Thanks for the message and info Ryan. Yeah the vent pipe configuration as well as the pellet type will greatly determine where that damper needs to be for optimal performance. I always say don't pay attention to the damper positioning, pay attention to the way the fire looks. You want a nice clean crisp flame with torchy tips, small pellet coals barely bumbling in the bottom of the burnpot. As for the fuel, I recommend trying a few different kinds to see what works best for you both on performance and price. You will notice a big difference in heat, ash, burnpot build-up, glass build-up, and overall consumption. Buy a few bags of a few different kinds and make notes on the differences. Happy to help, thanks again Ryan!

[@kenstobbe9697]

I have Breckwell pellet stove circa 2004, pressure switch has + and - inlets, would I use positive or negative inlet? From the age of the unit , I gather from your video , I should use positive. No info in the manual.

[@EarthSense]

Hey Ken, happy to help. Do you know what model Breckwell you have? To my knowledge all Breckwell pellet stoves manufactured around that time would have negative pressure in the firebox, positive pressure in the exhaust venting. Let us know your model and we can verify if the hose should be on the + or - for your unit. Thanks!

[@EarthSense]

Quick update Ken. It won't hurt anything if the pressure switch hose is hooked up to the wrong inlet on the switch, it simply won't allow the switch to work and auger motor to lock in. I would suggest the - inlet and if it doesn't lock in properly switch the hose to the +. Hope that helps, keep us posted. Thanks!

[@kenstobbe9697]

@@EarthSense model P22

[@kenstobbe9697]

@@EarthSense thank you

[@EarthSense]

@@kenstobbe9697 Thanks Ken! Yeah, the P22 Maverick will have negative pressure in the firebox. The newest air/pressure switch for that model only has the (-) inlet now. Link for reference: pellethead.com/product/breckwell-us-stove-air-switch-oem/ Keep us posted and let us know if you need any further assistance. Appreciated,

[@jimdenney7727]

I have a Harman p68 feed motor will not shut off , I replaced the vacuum control and still have same problem , please and ideas on what it may be, I also replaced the ESP probe,thank you in advance,Jim.

[@EarthSense]

Hey Jim, if the auger motor will not shut off/running constantly regardless of control board setting, it would either be an ESP Probe or a control board issue. The vacuum switch is just a safety switch that will shut off the auger motor if there was an issue and locks in the circuit when proper vacuum is detected in the unit. The only two items in the P68 that control the auger/feed motor timing sequences would be the ESP and Control board. Are you physically seeing it turn constantly? Is it continuing to turn when you shut the unit to off? Do note; that depending on the version control board in your P68, when you turn the stove to off, the auger is designed to intermittently turn so it can purge out any partially burnt pellets in the auger shaft. Depending on the board this can take place for 30 minutes give or take after you turn the stove to off. Feel free to provide exact specifics of what's going on and we can better assist. Here is the P68 Control Board for reference - pellethead.com/product/harman-platinum-4-output-circuit-board-control-panel-oem/ Happy to assist. Thanks!

[@jimdenney7727]

@@EarthSense I do have the Harmon Platinum control board the one that comes up on this site that you had given to me.

[@jimdenney7727]

The stove does constantly run, even when I turn it to off it doesn't intermittently turn it just constantly turns I did order a new control board and a new ESP probe. Could you tell me if that will fix it and take care of the problem thank you, I very much appreciate it Jim

[@EarthSense]

@@jimdenney7727 Thanks for the message back Jim. Based on what you are describing I would be 99.9999% confident in saying that the issue here is either the control board, ESP Probe or a combo of the two. Once you received and install the new board and ESP please follow-up with us on the situation. We'll make sure you are 100%. Thanks! Side note - Make sure the stove is unplugged when installing these items. Also, we highly recommend a surge protector to be in place between the cord and outlet - 1000 joules or greater is ideal. This will help protect the board from any power surges or strikes. Example: pellethead.com/product/belkin-surgecube-outlet-surge-protector-1080-joules/

[@aaronharmison4463]

I have pp130 and it feeds pellets and lights and then thats as far as it goes. Could i possibly have a bad pressure switch.

[@EarthSense]

Based on what you are describing it sounds more like a low limit switch issue. On PP130 models that have the DHC control board, there will be a low limit switch mounted on the combustion blower housing. This switch is normally open and locks closed once the stove has reached 'proof of fire' after the ignition start-up cycle allowing the stove to feed fuel in normal operation. For troubleshooting purposes ONLY we can bypass that switch. We NEVER want to leave a safety switch bypassed. Video below on creating a jumper wire to do this. If the low limit is good, then yes let's do the same with the vacuum switch. kzbin.info/www/bejne/fHW5nJWpfbhsa7c Here is what the switch looks like: pellethead.com/product/pellethead-replacement-glow-boy-pelpro-low-limit-snap-disc-thermodisc/ Keep us posted. Thanks!

[@derekdonnelly1640]

I have an American Haverst pelletstove. And I replaced every thing except exhaust fan so far. And I keep getting error 1 code as soon as the room blower wants to kick on. I replaced the control board. Hi and lo temp sensors. Room fan blower and the vacuum pump in the vedio. Not sure where my issue is. Unless it is the exhaust fan not working enough. The machine is 15 years old. Thank you for any advice and the vedio

[@EarthSense]

Hey Derek, thanks for the message. Does your fire look good during start-up and into normal operation up until the room blower is about to kick in and it errors? You could always test voltage on the exhaust fan, but if you have a crisp and torchy fire up to that point it's most likely solid yet. It's interesting that it does that just before the room air blower kicks on - generally if there was an exhaust fan issue the vacuum switch wouldn't lock in to feed fuel through start-up and into normal operating mode. What model American Harvester do you have? Some models have 3 limit switches. Low Limit Proof of Fire in the Exhaust Housing, High Limit Switch up by the auger chute or back fire wall, and low limit room air blower switch located near the room air fan, typically on the rear firewall. Let us know your specific model and double check all wires to make sure none are exposed/shorting - especially around the room air blower. Keep us posted. Thanks.

[@jamesdemoss3333]

I have a Whitfield Advantage 11 WP2 When I turn on air room motor the auger turns 3/4 turn then slows down to another 3/4 each turn it makes a sound as is it were dragging

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us. Is the sound coming from the auger motor gearbox itself? Or is it coming from your blower?

[@rustyshackleford1282]

My pelpro pp130 doesn't care where the dial is set, it just goes to high and stays on high until the thing heats up so hot that you'll burn your hand even if you touch the very top part or lid to put pellets in. It did not do that last winter. I've thoroughly cleaned the entire stove. Including in feed air and out feed exhaust from end to end. Squeaky clean. But still it only goes to high. Even if I set it to 1,2,3 or low.

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us Rusty. Based on your description I would lean towards this being some kind of an issue with the circuit/control board. Let's start by doing a thorough inspection of the circuit board and wiring. Let us know if you visibly see any kind of damage/burn marks or wiring issues. Make sure the unit is unplugged when doing this.

[@jamespaiz4238]

Change contro dial switch common problem

[@edwinafarrugia5632]

Hi our pressure switch trips very often. Can it be due to wind blowing down the chimney please? It mainly trips when the wind is blowing opposite the chimney

[@EarthSense]

Yes, the pressure switch will most certainly trip if wind is blowing into the exhaust vent pipe chimney. There's many different styles of end caps/rain caps that are out there - some designed specifically for high wind applications. You'll want to make sure it's the same brand as your existing venting if you go that route. I've also see folks build non-combustible 'shields' so to say around the venting to block wind for horizontal venting applications on the side of the home. There's definitely a few different options out there to prevent the issue you're having. I will also mention that over time as a pressure switch starts to wear out, folks will often notice that it trips more frequently. Any other questions or references needed just let us know. Thanks!

[@edwinafarrugia5632]

@@EarthSense thank you for the prompt reply. It has one already. Today it is not windy but it is tripping again. Driving us crazy :(

[@EarthSense]

@@edwinafarrugia5632 What make and model do you have? On some pressure switches there is an adjustment that can be made on the sensitivity. If it's not windy, the stove and vent are clean, your gaskets are sealing tight and your combustion blower is running correctly, then more than likely the switch is starting to fail.

[@edwinafarrugia5632]

@@EarthSense A cadel wall plus 10kw one

[@EarthSense]

@@edwinafarrugia5632 Thanks for the info. First I've heard of that make and model, had to look it up - very cool looking unit. Wouldn't be familiar with parts for that line, but check your pressure switch and see if in the center there is a torx or allen looking screw head - it will look like part of the switch, but an allen or torx bit can fit in there and turn it clockwise or counterclockwise.

[@frankiejones4816]

Hi.my big question would be.can the pressure switch be reset after it's been trip? I really don't know if the pressure switch been trip. All I know is that the auger is not feeding the pellets. We have a kozi stoves model baywin.

[@EarthSense]

Hey Frankie, thanks for contacting us, happy to assist. Yes, the pressure or vacuum switch is designed to auto reset after it has been tripped and issues have been addressed. If the pressure switch trips and continues to sense an issue where there is air loss or blockage within the stove/vent, it will stay tripped. It works on air pressure and the diaphragm inside will open and close based on the air pressure it's receiving or not receiving. In addition to the pressure switch, your Baywin model will have a High Limit Switch and Auger Timer block which both run in line with the Auger motor and can prevent fuel feed if there is an issue. Start with basics: 1. Make sure the stove and vent are clean 2. Make sure your gasket seals are tight 3. Make sure your combustion blower appears to be running correctly 4. Check your High Limit Switch. Push the Reset button in the middle incase it tripped 5. Inspect your pressure switch connections and hose 6. Inspect the connections on your auger timer block *Make sure the stove is unplugged when inspecting/working on electrical aspects. There are additional ways of troubleshooting and determine where the issue is. If you need additional support just let us know. Thanks!

[@frankiejones4816]

Yeap need more help clean everything.still the auger not feeding .now the exhaust is not turning. I reset the limit switch it was trip. After the reset the exhaust motor isn't not working. I even replace the auger motor. Check some of the snap disk.

[@frankiejones4816]

Oh yes, forgot to mention that I replace the exhaust motor ( or fan). Reason for replace was the existing motor was making slot of noise.

[@EarthSense]

@@frankiejones4816 Thanks for the message. If the exhaust fan is not coming on then the vacuum switch will not lock in. I think we need to determine if the new exhaust fan is working - May be good to direct test to determine that. Video below on doing that. I would say to check over all of the electrical connections as well and make sure there's not ash plugged up in the exhaust manifold area. Let us know what you find. kzbin.info/www/bejne/qJ3QmnaPfpeKhs0 Thanks,

[@frankiejones4816]

I like to thank you.i knew nothing of fixing a pellet or even how it works. I h Got it running last night. Thanks to all your suggestion It help. Thank you I now know a tiny bit about how a pellet stove Thank you

[@milagrossmith4891]

I have an englander pellet stove and I soon as I turn it on it stops feeding and it turns off. I don't want to buy two auger motors if they are working and if the problem is something else. My question is how can I test the motors to see if the problem is the motors or something else

[@EarthSense]

Hey Milagros, happy to help. Video below for creating a test cord to run your auger motors to direct power. This is the best area to start when troubleshooting. If your auger motors are good, take a look at the second video link here for creating a jumper wire. For troubleshooting ONLY, we can bypass the switch to see if it's the culprit. Test Cord: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qJ3QmnaPfpeKhs0 Jumper Wire: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fHW5nJWpfbhsa7c Keep us posted, happy to assist. Thanks,

[@mojoflyingsolo639]

I have a Winslow PS40 that keeps giving me a vacuum alert, put in new pressure switch, hose, exhaust motor, proof of fire switch, new door gasket (3 times to get a tight fit), ash pan gasket, cleaned the stove, (so clean it looks new) I even cleaned the tube that you hook the vacuum tube on that is on the back of the stove and still will not run and gives me the vacuum alert after it flames on. No one around here to check it out. The only thing I have not changed is the control box. It just started out of the blue and I can jump the vacuum switch and it will run. Am I missing something?

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us. The Winslow line was known for having overly sensitive pressure switches. It sounds like you have addressed all aspects that would cause that switch to trip. In the center of the pressure switch there is a small allen bolt. Turn that bolt counter clockwise about 10 minutes if looking at it like a clock. This should decrease the sensitivity. Let us know if that was the culprit. Thanks, Mr. Pellethead

[@mojoflyingsolo639]

@@EarthSense All I can say is THANK YOU it worked. The new vacuum switch had a clear rubber caulk I had to dig out . Then I did as you suggested, moving the allen bolt, then started it up and it is still running after 2 hours. I have been working on this stove for 9 months, I even went out and bought a new pellet stove, Guess I will put it in storage for now. Again Thank You so much, you made my day. Doris

[@EarthSense]

@@mojoflyingsolo639 So glad to hear that Doris! Thanks for letting us know and so happy to hear that everything is running as it should be. Any future questions please let us know. Thanks, Mr. Pellethead.

[@Mowmer]

My quadrafire clicks several times (relay) when the thermostat first switches the stove on. After the clicks, it runs just fine and never doesn't run. I thought maybe the thermostat was bad but also considered this vacuum switch.

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us, happy to help. What Quadra-Fire Model do you?

[@Mowmer]

@@EarthSense an older Santa Fe model from 2009. Thanks

[@EarthSense]

@@Mowmer Thanks for the information. I ran this past our technical team - Thermostat is probably questionable...board clicking because if intermittent or weak thermostat signal. Double check thermostat connection wires and functionality of thermostat. I would also look at the auger feed motor. I have seen several Quad 3 speed stoves with an electrical clicking sound right at the feed motor. Let's see if we can pinpoint where the clicking sound is coming from. Thanks.

[@Mowmer]

@@EarthSense thanks, do you guys sell this thermostat part? I checked the voltage at the stove where the two thermostat wires connect (across those two wires) and zero voltage all the time whether turning it on and off. Checking one wire to stove ground and have 9 VDC. Maybe the thermostat uses current to switch on/off? Wire connections all look good. I'll try a new thermostat and let you know how it goes.

[@EarthSense]

@@Mowmer Few Options for the thermostat. - Standard Magnetic Wall Mount - pellethead.com/product/quadrafire-heatilator-gas-pellet-stove-standard-mechanical-wall-thermostat-w-wire/ - Digital Wall T-Stat, Aftermarket: pellethead.com/product/pellet-stove-digital-readout-emerson-low-millivolt-wall-thermostat/ - Programmable Wall T-stat: pellethead.com/product/quadrafire-programmable-wall-thermostat-w-wire-oem/ - Remote Control T-Stat: pellethead.com/product/quadrafire-smart-batt-ii-remote-control-thermostat-oem/ Good checks with your voltage. Current standard mechanical thermostats will use a magnet to turn on/off. Early T-stats used Mercury to turn on/off. I think it's a good idea to try a new T-Stat here. Looks like most of our options are currently sold out, but you should find a standard low millivolt mechanical magnetic Wall Thermostat should work correctly. Keep us posted. Thanks!

[@John-he1ll]

My pellet stove goes right to off as soon as push on, could that be a vacuum switch?

[@EarthSense]

Hey John, most likely that would not have anything to do with your vacuum switch. Can you tell us what your stove make and model is? Is it attached to a thermostat of any type? Use a multi-meter to double check your outlet - Inspect your cord and wiring into the unit and control board. Happy to help.

[@harrybent3175]

I have a Whitfield pellet Stove Auger is Not jammed light comes on to feed pellets But auger does not turn to feed toilets

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for the message. Let's first determine if your auger motor is good by running it to direct power. Here is a video on creating a test cord so you can run your motor to direct power. kzbin.info/www/bejne/qJ3QmnaPfpeKhs0 Keep us posted. Thanks.

[@christinatag5968]

If the vacuum switch did happen to get tripped is there a way to reset it or does it need to be replaced? I have a Heatilator PS50.

[@EarthSense]

Hey Christina, happy to help. The vacuum switch is normally an open connection. When it senses proper pressure it becomes a closed connection. If it trips the connection will open and shut down the feed motor. Once the issue is addressed, next time you start the stove it should close the connection again once proper pressure is sensed. In short, it auto-resets. When a vacuum/pressure switch trips, things to check are: 1. Ash blockage in the stove or vent 2. Front Door gasket seal and glass gasket sealing tightly. 3. Vacuum switch hose - Connection and check for splits/cracks. 4. Combustion/Exhaust Blower - Proper voltage 5. Lastly, faulty or weak vacuum switch Keep in mind your PS50 will also have a fuel hopper switch that is in direct line with the auger motor designed to shut off the feed if the hopper door is left open. Happy to provide further specifics and assistance if you need. Keep us posted, thanks!

[@christinatag5968]

Thanks for the reply. I’m not sure how to check the voltage on the combustion/blower but I’ve ruled out the other three things. I ordered a new vacuum switch and I’m hoping that does the trick. I had to replace the igniter in the meantime. That’s heating up nicely. Just need to get the pellets to feed. I’m in New England so getting a technician out to look at it feels like an act of congress. Trying to figure this out with helpful videos like yours! Thanks for the content. I’ll be in touch.

[@EarthSense]

@@christinatag5968 Thanks Christina, glad we can be of assistance. Way to be on it! :) Keep us posted once the vacuum switch arrives. You can do a visual inspection of the combustion blower as the stove starts up. Your PS50 uses a 3000 RPM, 80 CFM blower - During initial start-up it should be running near line voltage (105-120V). Often if there is an issue or it's lagging it will be noticeable to the eye. To check the voltage you would need a basic Multi-Meter. You would set it AC Voltage, and stick the black and red meter leads between the two electrical spades on the motor and the lead wires coming to them (Doesn't matter which connects to which spade - red/black to get the reading) - usually you can wedge the multi-meter leads in there so they are touching the metal inside the plastic connector. Plug the stove in, Turn up the thermostat and see what kind of reading you are getting on the meter for voltage during start-up. Any questions let us know. Thanks again,

[@christinatag5968]

@@EarthSense so I replaced the vacuum switch and unfortunately that didn’t work. We had a Technician come out this morning to run diagnostics. He said it is the auger motor. At least hopefully now we can get it fixed and get warm again. Thank you.

[@EarthSense]

@@christinatag5968 Appreciate the update Christina. I'm glad to hear the technician found where the issue was and you will be warm once again! Any questions down the road just let us know. Thanks!

[@Sandman1832]

I have a PelPro TSC90. Once in a while I will get a missed ignition code and I have to restart the stove. It works find after I restart it. Usually with my luck, this ends up happening at night when it gets the coldest. I want to get this figured out before it starts to get cold out. Everything that I have read about this issue points to the pressure switch, but I want to make sure before ordering a new one.

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us. I have reached out to our tech team regarding and will follow up ASAP. Generally speaking, the vacuum switch only has control over the auger feed and would not play a part on the ignition. In most cases ignition issues will either be an igniter issue that is not quite operating at proper ohms, a control board timing sequence issue, or somewhere we have a loss of air creating combustion air issues. When your fire is up and running does it look crisp and torchy or is it lazy in anyway? I will follow up as soon as our techs get back with their input on this for your model. Thanks.

[@EarthSense]

Alright, heard back from our lead tech: 'The only way that I would think that it would be a pressure switch issue would be if the stove stopped feeding pellets which causes the missed ignition. If there is raw fuel present when the stove fails to start that would tell me that it is most likely an igniter issue or a cleaning issue. The consistent start on the second start up everytime tells me that it is most likely the igniter. If the igniter is getting weak and not getting hot enough to ignite the pellets on first start up and enough on the second start up. I would start with testing the igniter and go from there.' Let's start by checking the ohms on your igniter. For the igniter in the TSC90, it should read between 38.0 - 47.0 ohms in optimal range. Here is a video on igniter testing should you need reference. kzbin.info/www/bejne/sGXannaZbpuljKs Igniter Reference: pellethead.com/product/pelpro-pleasant-hearth-igniter-element-kit-aftermarket/#tab-models_tab Keep us posted, happy to help!

[@Sandman1832]

@@EarthSense Thanks for your reply. When it misses ignition, there is no pellets in the firepot. When I restart it, then it will feed pellets in the firepot and run just fine until the next misfire which usually happens a day or 2 later. I replaced the ignitor last season thinking that that was the problem, but it wasn't.

[@EarthSense]

@@Sandman1832 Hmmm.. If no pellets are coming in during initial start-up then that could be a vacuum switch issue. I would suggest you check the switch. Check the tubing on the switch and make sure there are no cracks or holes. You can gently suck and blow on the switch hose and you should hear the diaphragm in the switch open and close. For troubleshooting, you can bypass the switch by pulling the wires off and connecting the wires together - alligator clip works well. Bypass only for troubleshooting, never leave a safety switch bypassed. If the stove is not sensing correct pressure it won't be able to lock in the switch. Make sure gasket seals are tight, make sure the combustion fan appears to be running at proper voltage on start-up and make sure your vent pipe is free and clear. Always check the simple things and maintenance elements first. Keep us posted, happy to help. Thanks!

[@Sandman1832]

@@EarthSense Thanks for your reply and your information. I will check it out tonight and let you know tomorrow what I found. Better to figure this out now than waiting until it gets cold. Thanks again.

[@owendean1616]

I have a Jamestown J2000 that remains in start-up mode for more than 20 minutes and shuts down going safe mode. What to do?

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us Owen, happy to help. So your J2000 initially feeds pellets and lights - does it feed fuel after ignition? Give us a few more details on what takes place during start-up. Could be a vacuum switch issue, limit switch issue or control board issue. Happy to help troubleshoot. Thanks!

[@owendean1616]

@@EarthSense it will start-up fine and will continue for 30minutes and longer in the start-up mode. I changed the limit switch in the combustion blower side and it worked normally after. I may still need to change noisy fan and motor. Thanks

[@EarthSense]

@@owendean1616 Thanks for the details Owen. That would be the low limit proof of fire switch - sounds like it wasn't functioning correctly. Glad you found the culprit. We offer several motor options for the J2, here is one of the combustion fans for reference pellethead.com/product/pellethead-replacement-jamestown-j1-j2-combustion-fan-exhaust-blower-motor-kit-direct-replacement/ If you need any other assistance please let us know. Thanks!

[@MrStaybrown]

Hello, i have a harman accentra fs. It lights fine, and then it goes into 2 blink status for 10 to 15 minutes and no feed during that time, fans are going. Then it clears up and it feeds again and it seems fine for a few minutes and it repeats the 2 blink status and no feed for 10 to 15 minutes again.

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us, happy to help. The #2 light will indicate a vacuum switch error. Sounds like in your case the vacuum switch is intermittently tripping/opening and closing. Few things to check: 1. Vacuum Hose - Connections and quality 2. Vacuum switch electrical connections 3. Front door and glass gasket seals 4. Combustion blower operation 5. Ash build-up/blockage in the stove and venting Always check the simple things first. Any air loss or air blockage can trip the vacuum switch. Once all these areas are inspected and checked, for TROUBLESHOOTING ONLY, you can bypass the vacuum switch to see if it's a switch failure - Video link: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fHW5nJWpfbhsa7csi=E84l2Lzkacx7owBI Replacement Harman Vacuum switch for reference: pellethead.com/product/harman-heatilator-vacuum-pressure-differential-switch-oem/ Keep us posted, appreciated.

[@MrStaybrown]

@EarthSense I watched it run for 4 hours. It blinks twice for about 10 minutes and no feeding during that time, then it's normal burn for about 20 minutes, then back and forth until normal shutdown. The distribution and combustion fans run fine the whole time. The distribution fan/motor, combustion fan/motor, auger motor, vacuum switch, control board, and door gasket are all new. I thoroughly cleaned it in the summer. Since it runs fine despite the 10 minutes of no feeding and 2 blinks, I wonder if it's a safety feature in the new control board?

[@EarthSense]

@@MrStaybrown Thanks for the information. There is not a safety feature that would do this in the new control board to my knowledge. I will send a message to our tech team and see if they have any other thoughts. Appreciated.

[@EarthSense]

@@MrStaybrown Just heard back from our Tech team. Could be the sawdust fines compartment - that would give it the intermittent vacuum issue. Double check the sawdust fines cleanout box for accumulation - kzbin.info/www/bejne/omSQiJpnrbeIr5Ysi=G24pr9Ze0NR7mtK4 This could also be caused by wind blowing into the exhaust vent pipe. If the area is windy you can either get a venting wind cap configuration or build a non-combustible barrier around the end of the vent pipe. Hope that is helpful, keep us posted.

[@EarthSense]

@@MrStaybrown Other tech got back with a few more things that could be checked. 'The other thing he could look at is that this is happening when it is hot so it could be “borderline” when it starts to begin with…Check the hopper lid gasket, glass gasket, combustion plate behind the ash pan is in right, magnahelic plug is still in, vac switch TUBE is clean and clear.' Hope that is helpful, keep us posted.

[@sirquezada]

At what point does the blower engage?

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for the message. What stove make and model do you have? Are you referring to the convection fan - room air blower? Happy to assist.

[@kaybryant7987]

If auger is working but the red light just blinks what I do

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us. What make and model stove do you have? The more description you can provide on the problem the better we can assist. Thanks.

[@matthewgilbertlmft3837]

Hello, I have an older Whitfield model. After about 10-mins the fan will turn off, which requires me to push the fan button to turn it back on otherwise the home fills up with smoke. Any ideas or comments to help guide me would be so grateful! Thank you - excellent video!!

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us, happy to help. Do you know which Whitfield model you have? Control boards and components will vary a bit between models. Is it the Room Air Fan/Convection Blower that is turning off or is it the combustion fan/exhaust blower turning off? I'm sure we can figure it out and get you back to 100%. Thanks!

[@matthewgilbertlmft3837]

@@EarthSense Thank you - I believe it is the exhaust blower that switches off. The pellets seem to burn just fine. I'm not sure of the model other than it's fairly old - came with the house nearly 18 yrs ago. Not sure if that helps. Any support/advice would be greatly appreciated, especially during these cold months! :)

[@EarthSense]

@@matthewgilbertlmft3837 Thanks Matthew. Based on the age, I'm guessing you have a Whitfield Advantage model. There is a ceramic snap disc located on the exhaust blower housing. This is your proof of fire switch. This switch is normally open and closes when it reaches 140 degrees on start-up. If this switch was weak and re-opened in operation it would shut the exhaust blower down. Let's double check that switch - for troubleshooting ONLY you can bypass that switch. If your exhaust blower runs as normal then it's the switch, if not, we have a different issue at play. Here's a video that will show you how to bypass. Also reference link to this switch if you do need replacement. kzbin.info/www/bejne/fHW5nJWpfbhsa7c pellethead.com/product/pellethead-replacement-whitfield-low-limit-ceramic-exhaust-snap-switch-safety-sensor-140-degree/ Keep us posted, happy to help.

[@matthewgilbertlmft3837]

@@EarthSense Thank you - I will most certainly get back to you. I am so grateful for the support. This was more than I ever expected - appreciate you! More to come.

[@EarthSense]

@@matthewgilbertlmft3837 You're most welcome! Keep us posted, happy to help.

[@KevinSheaO-]

Thanks.

[@kennycotto-escobar3457]

Hello, I am having an issues with my pellett stove. I replaced the auger motor, all the hoses, and gave it a deep cleaning. And there is still no power to the auger motor do you think it could be a bad switch.

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us, happy to assist. What is your stove make and model? In most stoves there are a couple switches/sensors in-line with the auger motor. They can be independently tested. We can also test your auger motor to direct power to rule out an issue with the motor itself. Let's start with the basics and I'm sure we can get you back up and running.

[@kennycotto-escobar3457]

@@EarthSense it's a New England pellett stove model 25-SHP22 , 55-TRP22

[@EarthSense]

@@kennycotto-escobar3457 Thanks for the info. I would first suggest testing your auger motor to direct power if you have not already completed that (video below). Once we rule out the auger motor we can take a look at troubleshooting the vacuum switch (video below). Let's first check any areas that may be causing the vacuum switch to trip. - Exhaust Vent Pipe (Free and Clear) - Air intake (Free and Clear) - Front Door, Ash Pan Door, Hopper Door, Glass Gasket (Sealing tightly) - Vacuum Switch Tubing (Check for connection, cracks, holes) - Combustion Blower Exhaust Fan (Running at proper voltage - should be near line voltage on start-up) Test Cord: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qJ3QmnaPfpeKhs0 Jumper Wire: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fHW5nJWpfbhsa7c Keep us posted.

[@kennycotto-escobar3457]

I replaced both hoses, cleaned everything. Everything works good and when I tested the auger outside of the stove it worked. But inside it will not feed the pellets to the stove

[@EarthSense]

@@kennycotto-escobar3457 Thanks for the message Kenny. When the auger is in the stove does it appear it's trying to turn? Just want to make sure we don't have an auger jam preventing it from turning. If it's not trying to turn and there is clearly no power coming to the motor, let's bypass the vacuum switch for troubleshooting. Make a small jumper wire, pull the two leads to the vacuum switch off and connect them together with the jumper wire. (Sent a video on this yesterday) See if anything changes with your feed motor operation. We never want to leave a safety switch bypassed, for troubleshooting only. By doing this it will let us know if the vacuum switch is the culprit. Keep us posted. Thanks!

[@thaneyant5823]

I have a traeger pro series 34 and when I turn it on the auger motor runs for awhile then shuts off and then comes on and off multiple times after but ultimately stays off, not sure what to do.. please help!

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us. For your Traeger grill there are 3 things in place that control your auger feed. Auger Motor, Temperature Probe and Control Board. You can pull your auger motor out and test to direct power to see if the motor will run consistently with good torque (Create a test cord - kzbin.info/www/bejne/qJ3QmnaPfpeKhs0) You clean off your temperature probe with fine steel wool or a scotch-brite pad. Make sure there is nothing foreign in the auger feed shaft binding the auger. From there you may need to take your control board to a local dealer to see if it's an issue with the board itself. Keep us posted, happy to help!

[@thaneyant5823]

I called traeger and they said it was normal for the auger motor to go off and on throughout the smoke is this true?

[@EarthSense]

@@thaneyant5823 Yes, the auger motor is designed to go on and off as needed, on smoke as well as all other settings. You will also find that your combustion motor/inducer fan will fluctuate RPM as needed. Your auger motor and fan will adjust based on the temperature you set the board to and what the temperature probe is reading inside the grill. Important thing is to make sure the grill is holding temp and adjusting as you go to different settings/temps on your control board.

[@lacon20s85]

Hi I have a heatilator ps35 that wont feed pellets, call light is on, replaced all snap discs, vacuum switch, cleaned everything, tested auger motor and it's fine, and I cant get a service tech until the end of january, any suggestions would be appreciated

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us, happy to assist. Does your auger motor come on during start-up or is there no feed at all? When you go to start the stove up is your combustion blower operating? If so, does it appear the motor is running at full RPM and voltage or does it appear to be running slow? We'll figure this out with you. Keep us posted.

[@lacon20s85]

@@EarthSense I appreciate the reply, the auger motor doesnt come on at all when I turn it on and the blower is on as well, seems normal rpms

[@EarthSense]

@@lacon20s85 Thanks for the message back. There's essentially only 3 things that can allow the auger not to initially feed during start-up. The vacuum switch, high limit switch and control box. Let's start with the switches. I know you replaced them, but there could be something that is continuing to trip them. Let's create a jumper wire and bypass these two switches 1 at a time starting with the vacuum switch. ONLY FOR TROUBLESHOOTING - We never want to leave a safety switch bypassed. Video to create a jumper wire: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fHW5nJWpfbhsa7c Let us know what you notice.

[@lacon20s85]

@@EarthSense so I watched the video and made the jumper and bypassed the switches one at a time and still not feeding

[@EarthSense]

@@lacon20s85 Thanks for giving that a try, It's important we ruled out those switches. I'm touching base with our lead tech on this quick, I will follow up very shortly. Appreciated.

[@susangrassi3985]

Hello I have a Quadra fire 1100 i and My 2 blower fans will not shut off. It will run for days. please help thank you

[@EarthSense]

Hi Susan, happy to help. Are you referring to both your large and small convection fan blowers? Or are you referring to the combustion exhaust blower and one of your convection blowers? For both the small and large convection blower there is a #1 snap disc that locks the blowers in as the stove gets warm enough, and re-opens when the stove cools down to cut power to the blowers off. If this switch was stuck in the closed position, the #1 and #2 convection blower would stay on all the time. You can pull one of the wires off the #1 snap disc to see if the blowers shuts down. Here is a reference to that switch: pellethead.com/product/quadrafire-heatilator-ecochoice-1-low-limit-convection-snap-disc-125-degree-safety-switch-thermodisc-oem/ Happy to help, the more details the better we can assist. Thanks!

[@susangrassi3985]

@@EarthSense Thank you for your help. Everything now works fine the only issue is that the pellet anchor motor feed will not continue..it stops.I have to continuously push the set button every 4 minutes in order for the pellets to come out. Also, I dont get the green or red light on the control board. I have done a cleaning, so would you happen to know why this is happening now? Thank you!

[@EarthSense]

@@susangrassi3985 Thanks for the message back. The Thermocouple hanging over the firepot is your 'Proof of Fire' sensor. This device allows the control box to go into normal operation and tells the auger motor to feed fuel after start-up once proper heat is sensed by the thermocouple. It sounds like your thermocouple is not reading temp correctly and communicating with the control box. Double check the electrical connections. Pull off the ceramic cover and inspect the thermocouple. If you are good with a multi-meter you can also get readings on the thermocouple. Here is the replacement Thermocouple for your 1100i for reference. pellethead.com/product/quadrafire-800-1000-1100i-1200-1200i-thermocouple-bundle/ Keep us posted. Thanks!

[@loritaylor710]

I have a pp130 that wont ignite. Pellets will drop and the the stove will just continue to blink green and then eventually flash red because it didn't ignite..stove and vents have been cleaned seals are all good..just installed a new igniter and new control board hopper lid switch is working and the tubing is clear stove is 3 years old

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us, happy to help. Although the igniter element is new, it will be good to check the ohms on it to ensure it's in proper range. The PP130 igniter ohms should read between 38.0-47.0. If we are above or below that range we will have issues with ignition. Here is a link that will cover testing the igniter in detail: pellethead.com/how-to-test-and-replace-a-stove-igniter-pellet-stove-ignition-troubleshooting/ If the igniter checks out good, let's double check the installation and position of the igniter element. Keep in mind it is the air rushing past the igniter that is lighting the pellets. Let's make sure the burnpot is seated properly, all door seals are tight, and nothing is blocking the air intake channel. You can always pull voltage from your combustion/exhaust motor - should be near line voltage on start-up for proper ignition. The Vacuum switch is only in-line with the auger feed motor so that would not have an effect on ignition. Start with the simple things first and keep us posted. Thanks.

[@loritaylor710]

@@EarthSense Thank you for your help replaced the door gasket and igniter lit the pellets had a nice fire going for about 10 minutes then the fire went out and went into shutdown mode. Update: I turned the trim setting clockwise to 1 and pellet stove restated and seems to be working now. THANK YOU !! for all your help. So glad I found your KZbin channel .

[@EarthSense]

@@loritaylor710 Very glad to hear everything seems to be working now. Glad we were able to help. Thanks so much!

[@allanoconnell4845]

how to test if if ths witch is workinbg properly?

[@EarthSense]

Hey Allan, if you have a basic multi-meter you can check for continuity. With the stove off, the switch will have an open connection, during start-up you should get a closed connection reading. If you want to let us know your make and model and what issue you are having we can help further. Thanks.

[@devingibb3340]

Hi I have a pelpro pp130b works on high but nothing else unless I bypass the pressure switch any ideas?

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us, happy to assist. What happens when you run it on other settings than high? Does the auger motor shut off and unit shut down? Double check the hose, wire connections, ash accumulation in the vent pipe, heat exchange area, back firewall, ash traps. Make sure the door gasket and ash door gasket are sealing well. Make sure the air intake is free and clear. It's also possible that the combustion blower is not providing enough voltage on settings other than high and is causing the switch to trip. Double check your combustion blower and if you have a multi-meter pull readings from it on various settings. Keep us posted, happy to help!

[@devingibb3340]

@@EarthSense Thank you I definitely will. I was told today by pelpro that it could possibly be the way my exhaust is set up. I currently have it set up for a 45 to 2x12" pipes to a clean out tea which is outside up to 3x12" pipes and then a down spout. If they're asking if I could make it straight out at the T and see if it helps. It turns out if I bypass The vacuum switch it works on low but they exhaust coming out is very light.

[@devingibb3340]

@@EarthSense If I bypass the vacuum switch it will run on low in all of it settings but it definitely does not seem like the exhaust is pushing prthere is no clogs

[@devingibb3340]

@@EarthSense The combustion motor definitely spins faster on hi then it doesn't low

[@EarthSense]

@@devingibb3340 Thanks for the message. If there are too many bends, elbows, horizontal pieces of venting in the configuration it can make a big difference on overall air flow and performance. Based on your configuration, it sounds pretty normal to me personally. What does your fire look like? Is it crisp and torchy or is it lazy and sooty on the different settings? Is this something that just started to recently happen or has it been this way since you installed? I would still check all the areas I mentioned and get voltage readings on your combustion blower motor. Keep us posted.

[@billyjackson5158]

I have pelpro 130 and has no power what would the problem be

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for the message. I would start with the basics. - Let's check the outlet voltage and polarity - Let's check the power cord connections to the stove terminal/junction box - Let's check the control board fuse - Let's check control board wire connections - Let's inspect the control board for any marks/burns/damage If all of those check out, and there is no power at all to the unit, then I would say you will want to get the control/circuit board tested. There may be a local dealer otherwise we do offer a service for this. Keep us posted, happy to help.

[@denise1501]

Hello! I have a Mt. Vernon Quadra Fire Pellet Stove. It’s an older model. I cleaned it out before using. It had been working fine. I left for a while and it ran out of pellets. I added pellets and cleaned my burn pot (opened and closed). When I did that it went on (sounds like its going to go on), but it didn’t. I hit the button that was red, which is what I usually do if this happens, which will start it to feed. It is now not doing anything. My control box is now blinking 3 times amber. I replaced the control box last winter. Any suggestions what I can check or what it sounds like? Thank you!

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us Denise, happy to help. Those early Mt. Vernon's had a very long auger shaft, sometimes taking 3 or more resets/primes (red button) to load it all the way back up. Your amber blinks would indicate the thermocouple did not reach proof of fire and the unit went into a fault. Here's what I would suggest. Let's unplug the unit from the wall and do a hard reset. Plug the unit back in after 30 seconds. Take a handful of pellets and toss in the firepot. Turn the thermostat up to initiate the start cycle. The pellets in the pot should light helping to get that thermocouple up to temp quicker so the unit can go into normal operation and feed can go into normal operating mode. If you don't see pellets coming out after 2 minutes hit the reset (Red) button again. Keep us posted. Thanks!

[@denise1501]

@@EarthSense Thank you so much I will try that now!

[@denise1501]

@@EarthSense I did everything, but the pellets are not lighting. Is there something else I can do for it to light?

[@denise1501]

@@EarthSense When I plugged it in, and turned on the thermostat the control box blinked again but now it also had a blue blinking light. The blue light blinked several times, then went off and still has the 3 blinking amber lights if that helps.

[@EarthSense]

@@denise1501 Hey Denise, we may need to check your igniter and make sure it's in proper ohm range. Here is a video that will go through testing the igniter. kzbin.info/www/bejne/sGXannaZbpuljKs

[@user-jl8jl4vo8n]

quadra fire 1200 insert themastate will not shut stone down keeps running

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us. What happens if you disconnect one of the thermostat wires from the terminal block? Does it then go into shutdown? Happy to help.

[@olivertaylor8788]

Took mine off,wire nutted the wires together,been running fine for 8 months.

[@EarthSense]

The vacuum switch is a safety device, it is not designed to be removed or bypassed. With the vacuum switch in place it is designed to shut off the auger feed if say the front door was left open or the exhaust pipe was plugged. Without it in place there are major safety and fire hazards. We would strongly suggest you have the vacuum switch in place and we can help troubleshoot if needed.

[@user-tk5dm2nw6b]

My augur wants to move slowly and the ignitor will not start.

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us, happy to help. There are simple ways to test your auger motor and igniter. Links below for both. If you want to provide details about your make and model we can assist further. Auger Motor Testing: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qJ3QmnaPfpeKhs0si=EMi70d75_KMlpI0O Igniter Testing: kzbin.info/www/bejne/sGXannaZbpuljKssi=lCC6t0iP4cKjEDUQ Igniter Ohm Sheet: pellethead.com/how-to-test-and-replace-a-stove-igniter-pellet-stove-ignition-troubleshooting/ Happy to help!

[@rolandrivera9216]

It still don't want to work right. Can't get it to feed pellets need to find a way to test the vacuum pump. I've don't just about everything replaced all chips in it auger runs I tested it. And I replaced the brain box just last year. It signals that's it's working. Tell me something I'm over looking

[@EarthSense]

Thanks Roland, saw your other messages as well. Happy to help. Let's first start with your make and model stove - let us know what unit you have. Does the unit initially feed during start-up? Keep us posted. Thanks!

[@ernestoflores6856]

Hello , I have a problem with my Whitfield pellet stove, the convection blower motor is not running , can you explain me how to troubleshoot what the problem is ,please

[@EarthSense]

Hey Ernesto, happy to help. Depending on the model there could be a limit switch that is not functioning correctly. You can run the motor to direct power with a test cord to make sure the motor itself is good. If the motor is running correctly on direct power then we would want to see if there is a Low Limit Switch in place on your model that turns the blower on. We are happy to help. Thanks,

[@ernestoflores6856]

Earth Sense thanks for help , the model of my pellet stove is WH-Q12694 the room convection blower motor is not working, I will test directly to power.

[@EarthSense]

@@ernestoflores6856 Thanks Ernesto. The number you provided here for the Model is the Warnock Hersey UL Testing Number, not the model of the stove. Are there any other markings on the stove indicating the manufacturer or model or do you have the owners manual yet? Happy to help.

[@EarthSense]

@@ernestoflores6856 Ahh, I just saw you mentioned it was a Whitfield. If you can't find a model type on it we can have you send us a picture to identify the model. That will be important as different Whitfield models will use different control boards and Convection Blowers.

[@ernestoflores6856]

Earth Sense thanks for your help ,I will do that , thanks , have wonderful day.

[@lancerudy9934]

How do mount the switch?

[@EarthSense]

Hey Lance, every model is a bit different on the mount. Most will have a mount plate and a screw or two holding the switch in position. Let us know your make and model and we can better assist. Thanks.

[@jestradabmw540i]

is a manual switch Kozy pellet stove thank you

[@EarthSense]

Thanks Jesus. Just left a reply on your previous comment. Keep us posted. Thanks!

[@tonywolfe5747]

New england e2 shows up on panel

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us. We don't have too much service experience with the New England Stove Works line of pellet stoves and their error codes. Doing a quick search I found a site that says an Error code 2 means that the system has failed to start. A clogged ignitor, faulty ignitor position, or bad fire sensor can be the reason behind this error code. A bad exhaust blower or damp pellets can be the reason why your pellet stove is not starting up as well. - Here's a video to test your igniter element ohms. kzbin.info/www/bejne/sGXannaZbpuljKssi=neWZ_qee8Gdtz5zT - Make sure the stove and venting are cleaned thoroughly including the burnpot and burnpot placement. - Inspect the operation of your combustion/exhaust blower. Happy to help.

[@saturn1975]

I had to switch wires to keep my stove going by switching back wire closest to fire box to the middle connection to keep my stove going works until i can get a new pressure switch.

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for the comment. It is important that the pressure switch is connected properly during operation to effectively act as a safety switch. Let us know what make and model you have and we can send over some reference links for replacement. Thanks!

[@johnmahan5630]

How can I test it if its work correctly

[@johnmahan5630]

Its t 40 NBC American energy systems

[@EarthSense]

@@johnmahan5630 Hey John, So you have a T40 model from American Energy Systems - we are familiar with that model. You are looking to test your vacuum switch? Are you experiencing issues with the unit feeding pellets? Let us know what's going on, happy to help!