How To Test A Stove Igniter, Pellet Stove Ignition Troubleshooting

[@billhuston8499]

I don't know the gentleman who does these videos but he has now earned my current and future business. He's not my local dealer but I love the information he provides. I just now ordered a backup igniter for my new stove. Thank you for your outstanding service!

[@EarthSense]

Thanks so much Bill! It's an honor to earn your business and we are happy to assist however we can. Any future questions or needs please let us know. Warmest regards to you.

[@bobmlynar9740]

Problem solved. I replaced the control board and the igniter. Thanks again for your expertise. You’ve made me a loyal customer.

[@EarthSense]

Very happy we were able to help and be of assistance Bob. Glad your stove is up and running once again! Any questions or needs as you go along let us know; we're always happy to help! - Warmest Regards,

[@Stormyism]

Second winter with a Quadra Fire pellet stove. Have already replaced the main board, auger motor, and now my igniter has died on us as of last night. The stove came with the house, I think it is 4 or 5 years old. While I'm not all that impressed with our stove letting us down over and over, these videos have saved me a small fortune in service calls. Thanks for what you do. One thing I realized with my own igniter troubleshooting is that during startup, the fire pot stays stone cold. I realize that it's the hot air blowing through the holes that ignites the pellets, but if you can't detect any warmth at all in the fire pot during startup, it's a pretty good indicator before you even get the meter out that your igniter is probably hosed. Now I'm just trying to figure out if my stove has a 300 watt igniter, or if I need the 380 watt version. It's a Classic Bay 1200

[@EarthSense]

Sorry to hear of all the troubles you've had with the 1200. I'm glad our videos have helped and I hope everything will be solid for awhile once you replace the element. Yeah, that's a good point on the igniter. If it's not getting hot at all generally it's the element. I always encourage folks to check the electrical connectors and lead wire electrical as well to ensure power is coming through from the control box. If you are only burning pellets in your 1200 then the 300 watt is what we would recommend. If you are burning a mixture of any other types of biomass fuel such as corn, then we would recommend the 380 watt. Any other questions let us know. Always happy to help.

[@Stormyism]

​@@EarthSense Thanks again for the vid, my new element showed up and it's fixed. Old one was shorted and showing 0 ohms on the meter. Just glad it didn't take the main board / fuse with it. I think I will install a fuse inline on this new igniter just to add another layer of safety for the control board.

[@EarthSense]

@@Stormyism Thanks for following up! Yeah, lucky the shorted element didn't blow out the board as that is known to happen. Glad the new igniter is in and working properly. There are other stoves that do use an in-line fuse with the igniter element, not sure why Quad never did that as it does add an extra layer of safety for the control board in the event of a short. Any future questions let us know, always here and happy to help how we can. Thanks!

[@alisonhopper9209]

Great video..My first experience of pellet burners-looking after a house in Italy. All working well this week then today cleaned the ash out and now it won’t work..so guessing I’ve not put things back properly..but pellets are dropping into pot.any ideas? The model of the burner is Caminetti Montegrappa..no instruction manual. Grateful for any help 🙏

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for reaching out. Unfortunately we do not have any experience with the Caminetti Montegrappa. In most pellet stoves it is the air rushing around the igniter that becomes super heated to ignite the pellet fuel during start-up. If there is any air loss there will be ignition issues. Make sure the door and ash door if applicable are sealed tightly. Make sure the burnpot is properly seated. Check the very basics first - especially if it was working fine before the cleaning. Hope that is helpful. Thanks!

[@mauricedelarosa660]

I tested my igniter (Lopi AGP pellet stove, not on your list BTW). I hunted down specs on the internet and found 57 ohms, +10, -5. I was right at 67-68 ohms. After a thorough cleaning per your recommendation to check the basics first, my stove did fire up again. But my question is, what is the nature of these igniters? I assume I should expect the resistance to get worse, correct? Would you advise that I replace my igniter even though it’s technically within spec? I mean, far easier to pick my time and replace before it stops lighting on a really cold night just before bedtime, right?

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us. If the igniter is in proper range I would see no reason to replace it. Now some folks will keep a spare on hand so if it does go out in the middle of the cold they can replace it. Over time, resistance can become more or less with the igniters - when they fail we will see ohm numbers either way higher or way lower than proper range. Much of the life expectancy depends on how often the igniter is going on and off. Keep the burnpot area and stove clean so you have proper air flow for ignition. Hope that helps!

[@alisonhopper9209]

Thanks so much for quick reply..I’d put the pot in the wrong way around 🤦‍♀️ so of course no air. Working beautifully again now..many thanks for the support.

[@EarthSense]

Great to hear Alison! Happens to the best of us - it's always so important to check all the basics first. Thanks again, any questions down the road please let us know. Thanks!

[@guyritchie8theeold794]

I love how he's doesn't waste any time gets right to it! Thank you !!!!

[@EarthSense]

Thanks! You are most welcome! Any questions or needs in the future just let us know. Appreciated!

[@bubbiecarrillo9220]

Great information on your videos! Really appreciated your skills in explaining the "how to" . I do have an igniting issue with my harman allure 50. On the screen obove it shows my igniter at 77°, i then checked with my fingers to see if it was hot to the touch, and it was. I then cleaned the stove (which wasn't all that dirty) then removed the igniter to test it and for a this igniter 45 to 53 ohms is the range which mine was @48.7. Gaskets are tight, justhad them replaced last year firebox and ash. Any suggestions? Tried to find some more of your videos on if its not your igniter....no luck. Thank you for your input....fire pot holes are clear...gaskets are good, stove is clean, igniter in ohm range, what next?

[@EarthSense]

Thanks so much for the message. Checking in with our Harman tech team to see what suggestions we have for you on next steps. We will follow up ASAP. Much Appreciated!

[@bubbiecarrillo9220]

Thank you. Appreciate it.

[@EarthSense]

@@bubbiecarrillo9220 Thanks for your patience. Let's double check the burnpot holes to make sure all are open/clear. Oftentimes carbon buildup can form blocking a key row of holes. Keep in mind, it's the super heated air passing by the igniter that rushes through those burnpot holes igniting the pellets. A good light, mirror, and small precision screwdriver will be very helpful tools to make sure they are all open and clear. Below I have a link to a Harman super scraper for the burnpot just for reference. If that all seems good, let's check the position of the igniter cradle and mount. Keep us posted, happy to hget you back to 100%! Thanks. pellethead.com/product/harman-heatilator-eco-choice-burnpot-firepot-grate-scraper-tool-aftermarket/

[@bubbiecarrillo9220]

Thanx for getting back to me. I did do a thourough check of the burn pot, everything looked good, I even removed the igniter to make sure it was correctly positioned in cradle, it was. Put everything back, and ran a test run and now it works! I'm a little confused as to why it is working now as opposed to earlier.....but you must have some magic or something...lol. Thank you for all your help and these awesome do it yourself videos! I do plan on purchasing some tools from you in the near future like that scraper and a vacuum. Thanx again!

[@EarthSense]

@@bubbiecarrillo9220 That's good news! I'm thinking it had to be just something slightly off with the igniter and cradle cage. So glad we could help and everything is up and running again. Any future questions please let us know! Thanks.

[@joedelaney1950]

Thanks for reminding me about the air flow being just as important as the ignitor. was able to clean behind and under. starter works fine! Our Lopi is a good product 1 ignitor in 10 years

[@EarthSense]

That's great to hear Joe! Yes, air flow is key. The Lopi line are great products, yes. Any future questions just let us know. Thanks!

[@chkl1118]

Just to emphasize Joe's comment, I found that piece of information involving the way the ignitor works absolutely paramount. I cleaned underneath and the dang thing fired up the fastest I've seen. Thank you for the video. :)

[@peterb9747]

Hello, Thanks for all ofthe very informative videos regarding pellet stoves. I need to replace the igniter on my Napoleon NPS45 Pellet stove. Does it matter whichway the igniter leads clip into the crimp connectors on the wiringharness? The female crimp connectors on the wiring harness are blue and red. Can the 2 wires from the igniter be clipped into either wiring harness connector? Or is there a specific connection patternthat needs to be followed? Thank you! Peter

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us Peter, happy to assist. The wires can be clipped to either of the lead wires, it does not matter which connects to which - just creating continuity through the circuit. Any other questions please let us know. Thanks!

[@PaulFeller-u8m]

I have a Whitfield Advantage Plus, Model No: WH-119540 pellet fireplace insert. A lightening strike I think took out the starter unit. The display lights come on as advertised, and the blowers are coming on as before. The auger is feeding pellets as before. However, there is no heat from the starter (which I think was an add-on Fastfire Self-Igniter, as there is a notation in the Owners Manual that this is an option for this unit). I have removed one lower limit switch and one upper limit switch and they both operated properly with heat application. The circuit diagram suggests that there is an additional upper limit switch but I can’t locate it. Could that be the problem with the starter? How do I gain access to the starter? I don’t think I can remove the insert from the fireplace. Does the igniter have a fuse? Thanks for your help and advice.

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us Paul. In your model you will have a Fast Fire Timer Block which controls the ignition sequence/cycle. I would suggest you first test the Ohms on the igniter element. The igniter has heat wires and is threaded in just underneath your auger motor. Video below on testing the igniter ohms. Your Whitfield igniter should have a reading between 33.0-39.5 ohms. If it is higher or lower than that range the igniter is bad. If the igniter reads between this range, then most likely it is the fast fire igniter block that needs to be replaced. Fast Fire Igniter Block: pellethead.com/product/whitfield-wp2-wp4-wp7-quest-advantage-fast-fire-timer-block-oem/ Testing Igniter Ohms: kzbin.info/www/bejne/sGXannaZbpuljKs Keep us posted, happy to help!

[@o6r1man]

My igniter isn't getting hot at all. It ohms test right in the middle of the range for 7000-462 @37.9 ohms. All the connections are good. What's the next step to test. I can manually light it and runs as should.

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us. Apologies I did not see your message here until today. Yes, ohm range indicated looks correct for the Quad 7000-462 element. If the igniter is good, and all wiring connections are good, the only other thing that could cause the igniter to not come on would be the control box. If you have a local dealer nearby you can have them test the control box to make sure that is the culprit. You could also use a multimeter to try and determine where power is cutting out for the element by following the lead wires to the junction box. During startup, line voltage should be coming through from where the wires connect to the junction box. You can also pull the igniter out and do a bench test. If it does not get cherry hot we have an issue with the element, if it does get cherry hot than most likely we have an issue with the control box or wiring. Keep us posted, happy to help. Here is a video on creating a test cord to do a bench test; best practice will be to gently put the loop igniter into a vice while testing. kzbin.info/www/bejne/qJ3QmnaPfpeKhs0si=D3e-HVqm2GcacT4h

[@milkshake5135]

If the ignitor is good but does not heat up. Everything else runs good. Classic bay 1200 quadrafire. Is it relay in control box? How do u replace that

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us. If you have tested the igniter and it is in proper ohm range, yet is not getting a charge/heating up during the start-up cycle, it would be an issue in the control box. Most likely a surge that fried the ignition block in the control box. Make sure you double check the igniter wire connections, and again if you have the OEM 300 watt element, OHM reading should be 43.5 - 53.5. (Aftermarket igniters and the 380 watt multi-fuel loop igniter will have different reading ranges.) There may be an electronics shop that does control board repairs that you could look into. If you do need to order a new control box here is the reference for that. Any other questions please let us know. Thanks. pellethead.com/product/quadrafire-control-box-3-speed-circuit-board-oem/

[@Barrettfamilyhomestead]

I have a Harmon p43. And I was told to make sure the igniter is shutting off due to burn pot issues. When I check it with a non contact meter. It’s showing the yellow wire always has power even if the igniter light is off. The light blue wire never has power. The stove lights fine. But someone told me it is possible that the igniter isn’t shutting off when it’s supposed to. When the igniter is off should the yellow wire be showing a current or not?

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us. Unplug the igniter from the wires and plug your meter into the yellow and blue leads. If the igniter light is off on the board with the stove running there should be no power there. If there is power, the board is the culprit of not shutting off the igniter and should be replaced. Keep us posted, happy to help.

[@Barrettfamilyhomestead]

@@EarthSense i put a new board in that I purchased from you as a precaution. Again using a non contact meter. With the stove plugged in but off and only the status light lite Its showing power going thru both the yellow and blue wires. However the burn pot is not hot. But when it was lighting the yellow had current but the blue didn’t. I just want to confirm that everything is working correctly before I put a new burn pot in.

[@dirtystayouts24]

1st time Pellet stove….if igniter is bad, is it “possible” to manually ignite. I know this is not recommended for safey, just want to know if a pellet stove I got works. Thanks for any advice

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for the message. Yes, if your igniter is out you can manually light the stove. Just place a handful of pellets in the burnpot, use an alcohol gel starter or friendly paper/wax fire starter options. NEVER use gas, kerosene, or anything of that sort. Let the fire burn for a few minutes so the pellets start going before you close the door and turn it on. Keep us posted, happy to assist however we can. Thanks!

[@Mat-vo7ju]

Hello, the pellet stove tells me that I have an ignition problem (Winslow PS40). Ready light is constant red and ignite light flashes two short blinks. When I look at the list of possible problems, everything is correct! As soon as I put the selector between 1 and max and press the start button. The ignition start sequence begins its 15 minute cycle. During the next 15 minutes, the stove deposits pellets cyclically into the combustion chamber, the combustion fan turns on and the igniter heats. I don't understand why after 15 minutes the pellets stop falling into the combustion chamber and the stove has ignition problems. However, the entire 15-minute sequence is functional (ignition ignites the pellets, flame in the combustion chamber and the hopper works, because the pellets fall into the combustion chamber, etc.). Do you have an idea of the problem ? a big thank you in advance!

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us. Based on what you are saying it sounds like we have a 'proof of fire' issue, not an ignition issue. Your stove sounds like it is igniting/lighting correctly and the start-up sequence sounds correct. There is a low limit switch mounted to the combustion blower exhaust motor housing. This is the proof of fire switch. This switch detects the heat during start-up and allows the auger motor to run once it reaches temp and closes - essentially going from start up into normal operating mode. Let's double check this limit switch. Pull it out and clean it, steel wool can work great in getting off the crud. Make sure electrical leads are secure. From there we can bypass it for testing purposes only to verify if the switch is the culprit. Here is a video on that - keep us posted. Thanks. kzbin.info/www/bejne/fHW5nJWpfbhsa7csi=hL0u13rne2tz6eBU

[@Mat-vo7ju]

Many thanks for your advice. I cleaned the fire switch with steel wool and the stove works like new. Thanks again !@@EarthSense

[@EarthSense]

@@Mat-vo7ju That is fantastic to hear! So glad we were able to help. Any questions or needs down the line just let us know. Thanks!

[@theuniverse8384]

Thank you so much, I came across your video today. My 1st time/winter with a pellet stove & it’s awesome. I’ve been cleaning it regularly, but not enough apparently. Noticed last night it wasn’t running as efficiently. After watching this I gave it a thorough cleaning inside & out. Started up immediately. Muchísimas gracias

[@EarthSense]

Fantastic to hear! Glad this was helpful. Any future questions or tips needed just let us know!

[@theuniverse8384]

Hey Taylor, So unfortunately a new situation has arrived. As the pellet stove is super cleaned up. Today started smoking from the top vent. I shut it off I’m going to let it cool down. And vacuum out the pipe. Any insights? I could send a video?

[@EarthSense]

@@theuniverse8384 Thanks for the message, happy to help. What make and model stove do you have? Yeah, if you can upload a video to KZbin and send me the link that will be helpful. Generally speaking, the exhaust vent flue pipe on pellet stoves is under positive pressure as most pellet stoves have forced combustion. PL Vent pipe of all brands and types are known for leaking around the seems. When we install, we apply high temperature silicone around every pipe seem and then we use a CO meter to ensure there are no leaks. Oftentimes we will even block off half of the vent outside so there is more pressure on those seems which allows us to make sure it's sealed 100%. Send me some further info and we can get more specific to your situation. Thanks!

[@theuniverse8384]

It’s a St. Croix, not sure how to send a video on KZbin. Sorry tech challenged. It’s been off for about three hours now. I cleaned it even more than I did a few days ago. How many hours do I need to wait to document with a shop vac regarding the pipe outside?

[@theuniverse8384]

It’s a St. Croix Model Greenfield WH-003275 Thank you for taking the time to read this. ☮️🙏

[@dnorth8436]

Old video but very relevant today, question: does polarity matter? The leads on the stove have no connectors but 1 red 1 white. Leads on ks-5030-1061 are non descript with a molex that is arrow shaped. Is there polarity in the element or can I make the connection either lead?

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for the message. For the igniter you can make the connections to either lead, it will not matter. Any other questions please let us know.

[@TimPearce-mc3dx]

Would you be able to tell me what the resistance (ohms) of my Calimax silicon nitride 3” flat 250w 230v igniter should be ? It is reading 100ohms

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for the message Tim. Unfortunately we do not carry any of these igniter types and would not know the proper ohm range. I found this site that seems to carry several silicon nitride igniter elements; possibly reach out there and see if they can provide you ohm range for your element. www.theignitorstore.com/catalog/silicon_nitride_ignitors Sorry we couldn't be of further assistance. Thanks,

[@patrickchristensen7937]

I have a Englander 25 EP pellet stove how many ohms should my igniter read to test it if it's good or bad

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for the message. The OEM PU-CHA Englander igniter for the 25-EP model should be 44.5 to 52.0 ohms in operable range. Here is the replacement for reference. pellethead.com/product/pellethead-replacement-england-stove-works-englander-igniter-element/ Any questions please let us know. Thanks.

[@wicnoodley]

I have a Quadrifire Cab50. I had to replace the control board, and it ran well for a minute. Then it stopped igniting (everything else works, fans, blowers, auger.) The ohms on the igniter are around 58. That's almost double the ohms range, correct?

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us. The OEM 300 watt loop igniter in your CAB50 should have a range of 43.5 - 53.5 ohms. If it is an aftermarket igniter those numbers can vary. At 58 ohms you may experience issues with missed ignition; it's a pretty narrow window for optimal ohm range. Here is the igniter and ohm breakdown sheet for reference. pellethead.com/product/quadrafire-heatilator-loop-pellet-igniter-300-watt-oem/ pellethead.com/how-to-test-and-replace-a-stove-igniter-pellet-stove-ignition-troubleshooting/ Any other questions please let us know.

[@wicnoodley]

@@EarthSense Thanks!

[@aaronsnyder-gk1uo]

I'm trying to figure out why my fuse in my st croix keeps blowing. Do you have any videos on that or any ideas

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us Aaron. Generally if a fuse keeps blowing like that there is a direct short from one of the components or wires. Inspect all wiring in the stove and make sure there are no exposed wires grounding to the metal body of the stove. Check the igniter as well; if the igniter is warped at all and touching the igniter housing it will blow the fuse every time. Check the igniter wires and check the ohms on the igniter to make sure it is in proper range. Keep us posted, happy to help.

[@leslieswafford5824]

What does it mean if the reading is high and keeps jumping around? Does the control box the quadrafire 1200 have a fuse for the igniter that can be replace? Our control box is enclosed in a metal box.

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us, happy to help. If you have the standard 300 watt loop igniter the ohm reading should be between 43.5-53.5. If you have the 380 watt multi-fuel loop igniter, ohm reading should be between 35.0-43.5. If you are getting readings outside of this range, either higher or lower, it will be a direct indication that the ignter is not in operable condition and needs to be replaced. On most Quadrafire 1200 models there is 1 fuse that is located in the junction box where the control box is seated right by the call light. This is the electrical system fuse, not a direct in-line ignition fuse. You can certainly pull this fuse out and test it, however gernerally speaking if this fuse was bad you would not have any power in the unit. The control box itself is sealed and should not be opened. Here is the OEM replacement 300 watt element for your reference. We should have the aftermarket 300 and 380 watt elements back in stock in about 8 days. pellethead.com/product/quadrafire-heatilator-loop-pellet-igniter-300-watt-oem/ Any other questions please let us know. Thanks!

[@EarthSense]

Hey Leslie, one more thing. If I recall correctly you had mentioned in a earlier comment that you had just replaced the igniter and were having ignition issues. Although rare, we have seen new replacement igniter elements that are faulty both OEM and aftermarket. The igniters do carry a warranty and if yours is outside the OEM range specied you should contact the dealer you purchased it through to get a warranty replacement on the way. If we can be of further assistance just let us know. Appreciated!

[@leslieswafford5824]

I'm thinking I'll contact the company and get a replacement.@@EarthSense

[@bobmlynar9740]

Thank you for all the information you provide and your prompt service in shipping parts. On my Harman P68 (9 years old) I replaced the burn pot and unknowingly pinched the igniter wire. Discovered when the fuse blew upon first start. Replaced igniter and fuse and thought I was in the clear only to discover several hours later there was heat in the firebox. I did not light the stove but apparently igniter is getting a charge. How do I fix?

[@EarthSense]

Hey Bob, thanks for contacting us, happy to help. Glad we have been able to be of assistance for info and parts replacement. I would start by checking the simple things. 1. Make sure the igniter is mounted in the cradle properly and make sure the cradle has been tightened down evenly underneath the burnpot. 2. Make sure the burnpot holes are open free and clear. 3. Make sure the igniter cover door is placed on securely. 4. Make sure front door and ash door are closed and sealing tightly. 5. Make sure nothing is blocking the air intake that goes underneath the burnpot. Let's start there. It's the hot air rushing past the igniter which lights the fire, so let's make sure we have no air blockage or leakage issues. Keep us posted, happy to help you get this figured out. Appreciated,

[@bobmlynar9740]

Earth Sense I checked the position of the igniter and made sure it was sitting properly. I did the ohm test and it checks out.The burnpot is brand new. I have not tried to light the stove, but as soon as I plug into the outlet, the igniter starts to heat up. It even activates when the manual igniter switch is on. Except for being plugged in, I have not powered up the stove at all. As I previously explained, the reason I replaced the igniter is because I pinched the wire in the old one while replacing the burnpot. It caused a short and blew the fuse. I replaced the fuse and turned the knob to the “test” and all systems activated. I suppose it could be the part of the mother board that controls the igniter that could be the problem. Thanks for any help or advice.

[@EarthSense]

@@bobmlynar9740 Thanks for the message Bob. I'm going to heavily lean towards this being a circuit board issue if the igniter is getting power when you plug the outlet in and have your controls to off. Something must have shorted in the igniter block on the circuit board for this to happen and allow power directly through to the element. See if you can inspect your circuit board and check for any chars, melts or burn marks. Keep us posted. Thanks.

[@joerahnis373]

Just changed gaskets, igniter, room temp guage and fuse on control board. Going to test igniter with multi meter, but if that's good, what else could make the igniter not light. Combustion blower seems to work fine as well

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us Joe, happy to help. What stove make and model do you have? Yes, let's test the igniter to ensure it's in operable range.

[@peterreedy3220]

Quadrafire Vernon AE. Firepot icon on all time. stove stops working. Cleaned firepot no change. I usually clean thoroughly in fall but now I can wait to clean compleely and fix problem or do now. Fix? cleaning completely, gasket between firepot and case, igniter problem / replace, ceramic thermo replace? any help on how I should proceed, almost don't need for heat anymore this season. Thanks Pete

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us Pete, happy to help. There is no Firepot Icon on the Mt Vernon AE wall control. The Icon you are seeing on the right side that looks like a firepot is actually the Fuel Hopper Low Icon. Let's inspect the fuel hopper sensor. Here is what the sensor looks like for reference. pellethead.com/product/quadrafire-mt-vernon-ae-edge-60-fuel-level-sensor-oem/ Keep us posted, happy to help.

[@peterreedy3220]

@@EarthSense ok, that narrows it down, where is the sensor so I can test as stated in description? Thanks

[@EarthSense]

@@peterreedy3220 Hey Pete, the sensor is mounted inside the hopper. The fuel hopper will need to be near empty of pellets for you to see this sensor. Happy to help.

[@kiplandingham322]

Hi, I have an older Quadrafire Mt Vernon pellet stove fireplace insert. The connector on the main board feeding power to the ignitor overheated and burned due to an intermittent connection. New boards are quite expensive, and I can't see replacing the entire board because of one bad connector, so I'd like to repair it (I have experience repairing boards). Do you have any experience working on these? I'm trying to figure out how to remove the board from the chassis so I can work on it. It's pretty tight in there and I can't see how/where the board is mounted. I'm wondering if I'm going to have to pull the insert partway out of the fireplace to get that board out or not. Thank you for any help!

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for the message Kip, happy to help. I just forwarded this message to our lead technicians as they have the most experience with the Mt Vernon AE model. I will follow up ASAP when I hear back from them. Be in touch very soon, appreciated.

[@EarthSense]

Hey Kip, heard back from Tech - Yes, much easier to pull unit…unclip all component wires…board comes out in the black plastic…will then need to remove it from the black plastic shrouding if further access is needed. Repair is something you can try; we are here if replacement is needed, and we recommend the fused igniter wire harness. pellethead.com/product/quadrafire-mt-vernon-ae-edge-60-ignitor-wire-harness-oem/ Hope that is helpful. Thanks.

[@kiplandingham322]

@@EarthSense For anyone else reading this...the board is encased in a black plastic housing. The back side of the housing has 3 round posts that slide down into slots in the metal mounting plate, and a locking tab located behind the top heatsink. After you pull all the connectors off, pinch that tab towards the heatsink, then slide the entire board upwards...it will release from the plate and you can remove it. If anyone else experiences the burned connectors, what I did to fix it was to desolder and remove what was left of the two connectors on the board, clean up the board (remove carbon), then solder wire pairs into the board (lamp cord works and can easily handle the ~3 amp current draw of the igniter). Then I removed the corresponding plugs from the cables and used insulated connectors to make the connections. There are two connections for the igniter: the bottom-most one supplies 120V to the igniter relay on the board. The one above that feeds 120V to the igniter when the relay actuates. On my stove, both of these connections overheated and charred both the plugs and sockets to a crisp. Definitely under-engineered, IMO. Cheers.

[@EarthSense]

@@kiplandingham322 Thanks for sharing all of your details Kip, I'm sure that will be helpful for others. Very appreciated, any questions down the road please let us know. Thanks!

[@LeytonSchiebel]

@earthsense my pellet stove isnt starting / igniting. all gaskets, drawer, and doors are sealed, ash is cleaned out, pellets loaded in top, electricity and fan running fine, venting clear. still not igniting. what should i try? it's already real cold here at night -- 27 degrees. any help would be appreciated.

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us, happy to help. Have you done an OHM reading on the igniter yet to see if the element is in proper range? What make and model stove do you have?

[@delossearle5222]

I have a Quadra Fire Mt. Vernon AE pellet stove insert. I'm burning wood pellets. Stove won't ignite. I tested the igniter and replaced it, new igniter worked for a couple of days now won't ignite again. Igniter is still good, replaced the thermocoupler, and cleaned stove thoroughly, still won't ignite. Airflow seems good. What else could it be?

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us, happy to help. Are you receiving any kind of error codes on your wall control?

[@hilgo_velomobile]

Is it safe to assume that infinite resistance on an igniter is indicative of a faulty unit?

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for the message Evan. Each style igniter element will have a different optimal ohm range. Numbers outside of that range either higher or lower will indicate a failed igniter. You can find a general list here of varying igniter ohms - you can also let us know your make and model and we can try to provide optimal range if we have those specs. pellethead.com/how-to-test-and-replace-a-stove-igniter-pellet-stove-ignition-troubleshooting/ Any questions just let us know, happy to help!

[@mauricedelarosa660]

Great video! My stove was working fine (though its performance was probably getting worse and I just wasn’t realizing it) and then one day, no flame, just a pile of unburned pellets. At least I didn’t have to diagnose the pellet feeding mechanisms. But as you said, check the basics first. I gave the stove a pretty thorough cleaning and made an adjustment to the front door to get a tighter fit on the braided gasket. Since I had everything apart, I did check the resistance on my igniter and found it to be within spec, though right at the high end. I was having a hard time believing that my cleaning would make the difference, but since it was easier and cheaper to put everything back together and test it, that’s what I did, and presto! You were right, just by addressing the basics, it fired right up!

[@EarthSense]

Fantastic to hear! Yes, so much is about proper air flow for ignition and proper burn. I'm glad she fired up correctly after your cleaning. Any other questions please let us know. Thanks!

[@artmares5212]

Great video. Do you know the typical ohm draw for a Breckwell Ignitor part # C-E-IGN? Thanks

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us Art. Optimal ohm range for the C-E-IGN will be 56.5 - 63.0. For reference, here are our replacements for the C-E-IGN. pellethead.com/?s=C-E-IGN Any other questions please let us know. Appreciated,

[@BrothersTilDeath87]

Trying to fix and older model stove from a house we bought. Have replaced almost every part on it, after ignition, no auger feed and nothing comes on after the initial fan during start up. Can someone help me with this? The sticker says it’s a QuadraFire CB-1200 007C

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us happy to help. We are very experienced with the Quadra-fire CB1200 also referred to as the Classic Bay 1200 model. The thermocouple sticking out over the burnpot is what detects 'proof of fire' during start-up. If the thermocouple does not get hot enough or if it's faulty the stove will not feed fuel after the initial start up sequence. Here is a video with a bit more info on the Quad Thermocouple. Keep us posted, happy to assist. kzbin.info/www/bejne/gJmwhat3r7ZsoZY

[@richmyers416]

Never mentioned the ignitor can work and be in range but can short to ground and either blow the fuse or pop the breaker, ask me how I know when I bought 3 cheap ebay ignitors, 2 did this but one out of 3 were good

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for sharing Rich. Just glad to hear the faulty igniters didn't harm your control/circuit board. I hope you were able to warranty those two. If you need anything let us know. Thanks.

[@keithakers4753]

Thanks for the video.I was wondering if any knows the ohms for a Castle Serenity stove igniter. Thanks

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us Keith, glad the video was helpful. We have not carried the Castle line of stoves and wouldn't have the information regarding igniter ohms. I did find this direct contact information from Castle - possibly they can provide some insight. 800-345-6007 | [e-mail]

[@mauriceelmore406]

I have an old Enviro pellet stove it will not ignite. It is a EF-111 bay i. I am going to do the ohm test on the igniter. If the igniter is bad is there an easy way to get the old igniter out.

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us Maurice. Yes, best bet will be to do an OHM test on the igniter to see if it is in operable range. That is a very early style Pin Igniter Element for your model - Not a part we stock, but I would think you should be able to contact the factory to see what the ohm range should be of that element. Part Number of the replacement igniter is EF-127. Appears to be held in place just by two screws and the igniter will pull out with the housing. Be sure to have your stove unplugged from the wall when working with any of the electronic circuitry. Happy to help however we can. Thanks!

[@philcoleman8218]

Have a quadrafire castille igniter is fine getting no power to it. Can you help?

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us Phil. The ignition cycle will be controlled directly by the control box in the Quad Castile. You can use a multi-meter to see exactly where power is being lost. Double check the lead wires into the junction box wire harness area. If that all looks good, most likely we have an issue with the control box itself. Here is the control box for reference; keep us posted, happy to help. pellethead.com/product/quadrafire-control-box-3-speed-circuit-board-oem/

[@thuydo3198]

Did not see the Ohm range list at the end. What is the range for a Jamestown P1000?

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for the message. We have a running list in the description. We offer two different aftermarket replacement igniters for the Jamestown J1000 (J1) model pellet stove. Optimal ohm range is 54.5-63.0. We do not stock the factory igniter for Jamestown and would not have exact ohms for the original, however this is still a good range to base off. Igniter options for reference - pellethead.com/product/pellethead-replacement-jamestown-j1-j1000-igniter-element-4/ Any other questions please let us know. Thanks!

[@bndbass]

Thank you for the video, and listing the typical ohm draw for different type of igniters. This was very helpful in deterring that my igniter had gone bad, before Even took it out of the stove.

[@EarthSense]

Certainly our pleasure; glad to hear it was helpful and saved some time and energy. Any future questions or parts needed just let us know. Thanks so much!

[@cameronreed9911]

I have a Hudson River stove works Chatham cast stove used for ignitor part # 50-1067. Can you tell me the proper ohm range please.

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us. I just sent a message to our tech team to see if they can provide me proper range for this element. I'll follow-up ASAP. Appreciated.

[@EarthSense]

Hey Cameron, just heard back from our tech team. Optimal Ohm range on the 50-1067 Igniter will be 32.5 - 39.0. Keep us posted, thanks!

[@ianrhind7983]

Can you tell me what the Ohm range should be for a Red Compact Boiler

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us Ian. Unfortunately we have never handled the Red Compact Boiler or any parts for that model. I did some general searches online, but came up empty handed. I think the best option will be contacting the manufacturer direct and seeing if they can provide you the optimal ohm range for your model. Sorry we couldn't be of further assistance here. Here is a contact form I found online for RED. www.red365.it/en/contactus.html Thanks

[@ctjuggler]

Thanks for the great video. This is exactly what I needed. I will be back to your website next time I need parts.

[@EarthSense]

Thanks so much! Always here to help!! Appreciated!

[@leslieswafford5824]

What harness should you order for a quadrafire BF 1200 Serial #985070 or the last # could be a 6?

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us. For the Classic Bay 1200 Freestanding (CB1200FS), the correct wire harness and junction box assembly will be part SRV7000-154 based on your serial number. Here is a reference link -pellethead.com/product/quadrafire-1200-fs-junction-box-wire-harness-after-serial-352612-oem/. Any other questions please let us know. Thanks.

[@bobby1965ify]

I was wondering if you could tell me what the ohms should be reading for the igniter on my St Croix Prescott fxl

[@EarthSense]

Sure thing. Do you know the age of your Prescott EXL? Should be able to locate the manufacturer date on the rear UL label. 2 different igniters were used; one for 2004 to current models and the other for 2003 and earlier Prescott models.

[@bobby1965ify]

@@EarthSense 2015

[@EarthSense]

@@bobby1965ify Thanks Bobby. Your igniter should have an ohm range between 54.0-63.0. Here is a link to the replacement for reference. pellethead.com/product/st-croix-afton-bay-ashby-prescott-igniter-element-2004-to-current-oem/ Any other questions please let us know. Thanks!

[@bobby1965ify]

@@EarthSense thank you so much appreciate that mine's good thank you

[@bucksatanII]

I have a Harmen P43 and the stove will ignite but I noticed the fire stays only in the left corner of the burn pot and the right side will not catch on fire. Any idea why that is happening?

[@mrhommel1]

I have the same stove and the exact same problem. After a while it just starts dumping unburned pellets.

[@RobinLauer]

I’m having the same problem with my P43

[@bucksatanII]

I can get it to start normal if I put the stove temp between 75-80 and turn it on, wait maybe 20 mins and turn down the temp.

[@EarthSense]

Just checked in with our lead tech team on this. This is something they have seen and are familiar with. Notes below. One likely issue if 2016 or newer, two possible issues if 2015 or older. Both cases are about air diversion. 2016 and newer - burn pot igniter cradle not fully seated against the throat plate with the air holes. Cooler intake air can now divert around the igniter and dilute the superheated air entering the burn pot. Switching to an adjustable cradle or two small #10 washers added between the cradle frame and the burn pot where the two cradle fasteners are. Hard to do without removing the burn pot because the washers go over the two machine screws, one each, before being threaded into the cradle frame. 2015 and older - the same issue above is possible with the possible additional problem of the firewall across the air intake channel and lower burn pot studs being warped. In these cases, the factory gasket was not thick enough to seal the warpage causing some air diversion from the burn pot impacting air flow through the igniter cradle. Installing two of our AMP burn pot gaskets will seal this warpage problem. In both cases, if the diversions are small, a new full strength igniter can overcome the problem. However, as the igniter over time becomes weaker it becomes more difficult to light the fuel. The classic symptom is ignition on the left side only because air draws slightly more left in a P-series because the combustion blower is on the lower left side.

[@Laurel-Crowned]

Great service! Just got all my parts today, sure wish I would have ordered the igniter also 🤦‍♂️ What would be the specs on a ap5660l igniter? After searching all over town I was lucky enough to find a fuse but the igniter failed to work. Hoping my circuit board is still ok🙏

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for the message, glad we were able to assist! The igniter for your Ashley AP5660L would be part 80604. I have just messaged our tech team to send over the ohm range for that element. I should have an update on that and will let you know as soon as possible. Here is the 80604 igniter and aftermarket for reference. Be back in touch shortly. Thanks! pellethead.com/product/us-stove-vogelzang-ashley-pellet-stove-igniter-element-oem/

[@EarthSense]

Just heard from our tech team. Ohms on the 80604 igniter should range between 45-52 ohms for proper start-up. Give your igniter a check and let us know what it's reading. Thanks!

[@Laurel-Crowned]

@@EarthSense thanks for the info! Mine was reading 8-10. Kinda strange it didn't burn my fuse after I replaced it. I went ahead and disconnected the igniter to be safe and just lit it with my torch till my new igniter gets here.

[@EarthSense]

@@Laurel-Crowned Thanks for the message. Glad you were able to test it and verify it was out of operable ohm range. Sounds like a good move on your part. Let us know how everything is working once the new igniter is in and installed. Thanks again!

[@Laurel-Crowned]

@@EarthSense thanks again! It worked out great. If you don't mind me asking, how long does your brand last compared to the factory brand? Also do you sell on eBay or Amazon?

[@lesadavis6369]

ps35 replaced control board, unit working for 1 day. now stove will not fire, igniter seems not getting power, usually it gets red hot. any suggestions???

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us. Start with the basics first. Check all electrical wires and connections in the unit. Make sure the door and ash door are shut and sealed properly. Make sure the exhaust pipe is not plugged and heavy ash accumulation is removed from the stove. Make sure your burnpot is seated properly and the holes are all open. You can use a multi-meter to check the ohms on your igniter element to make sure it is in range. Why did you replace the control board? Is everything else working but the igniter? Happy to help.

[@lesadavis6369]

replaced board no power. replaced igniter, everything else work except their is about .9 volts from board to igniter.@@EarthSense

[@EarthSense]

@@lesadavis6369 Thanks for the message. If you're able to take the control board to a local dealer for testing or have a technician come out to service the unit that would be ideal. It's rare that a new control board would be bad, but based on your notes I think it's best you have it tested if possible.

[@Slesher0127]

Cumberland MF3700/3800 Contractor told me the igniter was bad. Bought a new one, it worked flawlessly one time. After that it does what it did before, won't light and message onscreen says no proof of fire, indicating a bad igniter according to the manual. What would cause a brand new igniter to go bad after one use? The stove is cleaned out every use and the seal is good.

[@Slesher0127]

Also getting no reading on the meter

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us Scott, happy to help. I suggest we still do an ohm test on that igniter to see where it's reading - we haven't carried the Cumberland line before, but you should be able to get ohm range numbers from the factory or dealer you purchased the element from. We have seen brand new igniters burn out like this, not that common, but we have seen it. You could check the mount of the igniter, not sure if it mounts in a housing/tube in that model, but we want to make sure the mount is correct and that the igniter is not grounding out on any metal or tubing it's inserted in. There could also be the possibility of an issue with the control board timing cycle of the igniter. We have seen that before where the igniter will continue to stay on after that timing cycle and burn itself out right away. Let's start by checking the simplest items first and go from there. Keep us posted. Thanks!

[@Slesher0127]

@@EarthSense @Earth Sense thanks for the reply. I tested it with my multimeter and didn't get a reading at all. Is there a way I can test the timing cycle switch to see if that's the issue?

[@EarthSense]

@@Slesher0127 Sure thing Scott. There should always be an ohm reading from the igniter. Again, there is an optimal range it needs to be in to fire properly, but there should always be a reading on the multi-meter. Double check the meter settings on that. On most stoves the igniter timing sequence is built into the control board. Again, not sure on Cumberland as we have not handled that line. Generally speaking the control board would need to be tested by a dealer, but again not sure on the Cumberland model - it may have a separate timing block. I would suggest you reach out direct to the factory and pull in there insight here. Happy to help however we can. Thanks.

[@jswik2085]

I have a Whitfield WP4 quest. Wud u know what the ohm range is for it? there's a box it is plugged into, how wud I text it? Thanks, Joseph-vernon Arizona

[@EarthSense]

Hey Joseph, happy to help. Your WP4 Whitfield Quest will use the threaded igniter element. Ohm range on that element is 33-39.5 ohms. Let's first see if your igniter is in proper range. If it is in range, then more than likely the issue is with the fast-fire igniter timer block that you see the igniter wires plugging into. Always important to note - It's the air rushing around the igniter that is lighting the fire. If the igniter is glowing red hot, but you are not seeing ignition, it most likely has to with improper air flow. Always good to check the door gasket seals, firepot placement and holes, combustion blower operation, and any ash blockages in the stove or vent pipe. Keep us posted, here are links for reference - Igniter: pellethead.com/product/pellethead-replacement-whitfield-lennox-iron-strike-threaded-igniter-element/ Fast Fire Timer Block: pellethead.com/product/whitfield-wp2-wp4-wp7-quest-advantage-fast-fire-timer-block-oem/

[@jswik2085]

@@EarthSense thanks for all the info. I can check the ohms now. I did check air flow through tube and that is fine.

[@EarthSense]

@@jswik2085 Sounds good, let us know what kind of reading you get.

[@AboveItAllDroneShots]

My ignitor shorted out, now the new one won't work and I tested the ignitor your way and it is good.

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us. What stove model do you have. Some units will have a fuse for the igniter. We need to see if power is coming from the control board lead igniter wires.

[@AboveItAllDroneShots]

@@EarthSense MTVERNINSAE-MBK

[@EarthSense]

@@AboveItAllDroneShots Thanks for the message back. The Mt Vernon AE will have an igniter wire harness with an inline 7 amp fuse. This harness goes back to the control board. Let's get a multi-meter and verify the fuse is good. Let's do a thorough inspection on that wire harness for both connection points and any damage to the harness itself. Keep us posted, happy to assist. Thanks,

[@AboveItAllDroneShots]

@@EarthSense got into the control board to find the fuse blown. Replaced and it works like new! Thanks for the assistance, it is well appreciated:)

[@EarthSense]

@@AboveItAllDroneShots Fantastic to hear! Thanks for letting us know, and glad we were able to be of assistance.

[@johngregory1845]

Thank you for the video. It was very educational for me.

[@EarthSense]

Wonderful to hear John! If you have any questions moving forward just drop us a line! Thanks!

[@phillipnajera5224]

what is the ohm reading for igniter for whitfield profile FS20

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for the message. The Igniter used in your Profile 20 will be SKU H8127. The OHM reading for the OEM igniter should be approx. 33.0-39.5. Keep us posted, happy to help. Ohm Reference Link pellethead.com/how-to-test-and-replace-a-stove-igniter-pellet-stove-ignition-troubleshooting/ Igniter Reference Link: pellethead.com/product/whitfield-lennox-iron-strike-threaded-igniter-element-aftermarket/

[@ronbrooks6815]

I have a Breckwell Pellet stove Tahoe P2000 Inset, what should the ohm reading be on the ignitor?

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us. We only offer an aftermarket igniter for the Tahoe P2000 which optimal ohm draw should be in the range of 54.5-63 ohms. Sometimes the factory igniter will have a different ohm range, factory part number will be C-E-IGN. I would think you should be able to reach out to Breckwell direct to find out proper ohm range if you have the original OEM igniter in your Tahoe. Hopefully that was helpful, thanks!

[@briancomeau3219]

What range of ohms on the ignighter should a Harman P43 be at.

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us. For the OEM Harman igniter used in your P43 model the ohm range should be 45.0 - 53.0. Any other questions please let us know.

[@aramisgotay8610]

Im new on this channel and have a problem with my pellet stove the igniter does not light on so I took it out and try to test it but give me no read is that mean that my ignider is no good?

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us and welcome to the channel. That would be odd to get no OHM reading from an igniter - Typically there will always be a number output whether it's good or bad. Double check the multi meter connections to ensure they are making contact with metal in each of the igniter wire connectors. Double check your multi-meter OHM settings and battery as well just to be sure. What stove make and model do you have?

[@aramisgotay8610]

My stove is an Englander

[@aramisgotay8610]

Model 25-PDVC/55-SHP10

[@EarthSense]

@@aramisgotay8610 Thanks for the message back. Sounds good, we are familiar with this Englander model. I assume you have double checked the Multi-meter function and have ensured you are making good connection to get an OHM reading correct? Again, I have never heard of an igniter good or bad that doesn't give some type of an OHM reading so this is an odd one. Here is the replacement igniter for reference. pellethead.com/product/pellethead-replacement-england-stove-works-englander-igniter-element/

[@aramisgotay8610]

Thank you so much I will check and let u know thanks again

[@leslieswafford5824]

What wire do you order to replace the wires that connect to the igniter?

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us. Generally in this case you would need to order a replacement wiring harness for the stove. What make and model stove do you have? Happy to help.

[@leslieswafford5824]

We have a Quadrafire FS Bayfront 1200 2009. We replaced the fuse to get power to the stove. Replaced the igniter which didn't work. The cover on the wire that connected the igniter wasvery brittle exposing the bare wire. We were going to have someone replace that wire. Are you saying you need to replace the harness instead. Everything works on the stove except the startup, we've been starting it maually. @@EarthSense

[@EarthSense]

@@leslieswafford5824 Thanks for the message and information. In this case the manufacturer would recommend replacing the wire harness to ensure there is no damage to the circuit board/control box. For the 1200 model the wire harness comes with the Junction Box. There are serial number cutoffs right around the 2009 manufacturer date. You would need to verify your serial number. Reference link below. A person could attempt to splice in a replacement wire there, however we wouldn't be able to advise something like this or have any certainty on it working correctly or causing issues/failures of other components. Any other questions please let us know. Thanks. pellethead.com/product/quadrafire-1200-fs-junction-box-wire-harness-after-serial-352612-oem/

[@leslieswafford5824]

007C is the model #. How difficult is it replace the harness? Any video?@@EarthSense

[@EarthSense]

@@leslieswafford5824 There should be a series of digits after the 007C numbers.. Serial number cutoff for the 1200 wire harness is 352613. Important to know if your model is above or below that number. The Harness and Junction box does come with instructions. If one is pretty handy it should be fairly strait forward for install. Unfortunately we do not have a video on this, but we can help walk you through best as possible if that was needed. Thanks.

[@RetroMechaniac]

i have a stove igniter measuring 209 OHM i dont realy know the make or model, but guessing it only draws 250W @ this rate i think i may assume its bad ? 250w cant really generate much heat it think :)

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us. Yeah, I have never heard of an igniter at 209 ohms. The 250 watt igniters we carry have a general range of 54.0-64.0 ohms. I would strongly lean towards that igniter being shot at a 209 ohm reading. If you know a part number or can figure out what model you have we can steer you in the right direction for replacement. Thanks!

[@juliahannibal9855]

HOw do you replace the fuse? I pulled the plug out and blew the fuse

[@EarthSense]

Hey Julia, what stove make and model do you have? Placement of the fuse/s will vary significantly based on the stove. Happy to help.

[@waymoncowley436]

My Breckwell all of a sudden won't light. All motors work and it will manually feed. After there is a good fire going, when I push the button for auto mode there is no greenight and it doesn't kick in.

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us Wayman. Let's check the ohms on the igniter to see if it is in operable range. Let's also take a look at the Low Limit Proof of fire switch - it sounds like it is not locking in allowing the stove to go into normal operation. That switch can be bypassed for troubleshooting purposes to determine if it is the culprit. Keep us posted, happy to help however we can. Thanks!

[@mr68special]

I have bought 5 igniter for my Avalon pellet stove in past 2 years,2 of which was from Earth Sense in just the past month and they have all failed,what could be causing the ignitors to burnout

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us Terry, happy to help. The couple things that come to mind causing this would be a control board that is keeping the igniter circuit energized all the time which will burn out the igniters prematurely. Another issue could be if the stove is running on a thermostat and cycling on and off frequently. Some of the older stoves only run on the early manual t-stats and when they are hooked up to a digital or programmable t-stat the way it cycles the start up causes repeated start ups and excessive wear on the igniter element. Do you have a thermostat in place? If so is it the original or an upgraded one? Anyway you can have the side panel open during operation to see if that igniter is glowing and staying on after start-up?

[@mr68special]

@@EarthSense I was thinking that too thank you

[@EarthSense]

@@mr68special Thanks Terry, keep us posted, happy to assist however we can. Thank You!

[@mr68special]

I have my multi meter hooked to power wires for igniter.started pellets manually.turned power back on to stove.there was power to igniter.stove got up to temp fans came on and power to igniter went from 117v down to .05 to .08v is that normal?

[@EarthSense]

@@mr68special Thanks Terry, good troubleshooting! I just messaged our lead tech on this. Will follow-up ASAP. Thanks!

[@bejagee]

I have a Winslow PS40 stove. The ready light flashes 2 long blinks when I press the start button. The manual says the over temp snap switch is open. Replaced the switch, same problem. Checked all the motors (working). Ignitor ohm reading is 35.6 ohms. Any thoughts? Stove airways have been cleaned, exhaust pipe cleaned, I even tried replacing the control board, still getting the same error.

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us, happy to help. Spoke with one of our lead techs. He suggests that you check the lead wires of the over temp snap switch going into the molex connecter. He has seen circumstances where those wires are loose, not making proper connection and will continually give that fault code blink. Let us know what you find. Thanks!

[@bejagee]

@@EarthSenseDid a continuity test with my multi-meter and got the wire checked out OK. Didnt find any loose connectors either. Still stumped.

[@EarthSense]

@@bejagee Thanks for the message back. I just emailed our tech team. I will follow up with their insight as soon as possible. We'll get this figured out. Appreciated.

[@EarthSense]

@@bejagee Here is the latest info from our technician- Need to know the year. If it is 2010 or later the hopper switch or the 25K ohm resistor could be the problem. The resistor, attached to the back of the hopper must meter out very close to 25,000 ohms. Also, the early versions of this resistor system did not have the wires soldered to the resistor. The wires were loose hooked and shrink wrapped causing a bad connection. Cut the shrink wrap off to check these connections, they should be soldered.

[@bejagee]

@@EarthSense purchased in 2004, so I will check the resistor as you suggested. Where on the hopper is it located?

[@vickithurston7661]

Thank you .... I'm learning

[@EarthSense]

Great to hear. Yes, we are always learning and that is a wonderful thing. If you need anything just let us know. Thanks!

[@edwardmitchell8574]

Hello I replaced Agur motor pressure switch snap disc blowers and thermocouple fire starts up then nothing the Agra doesn’t kick back on do I have to adjust the thermostat out further for to kick one the agru

[@EarthSense]

Hey Edward, happy to assist and get you back up and running again. Let's start with the make and model stove you have. Start-up cycle and components will vary from manufacturer and model. You mentioned thermocouple which narrows it down as only a few pellet stove manufactures will use the Thermocouple. Also let us know how your fire looks on start-up - crisp/torchy or wavy/lazy. Happy to help!

[@edwardmitchell8574]

Start cycle starts fine I wish I can send video

[@EarthSense]

@@edwardmitchell8574 Hey Edward, you can take a video on your phone and upload to KZbin and send us a link. Once we know your make and model stove we can better assist. Thanks!

[@cheo12170]

I have a thellin parlour stove do i need to have the ignitor for the stove to operate or can i put a jumper on it

[@EarthSense]

Hey Jesse, if the igniter is no longer working in your Thelin Parlour you can either just leave it as is or you could disconnect the wires and just leave it in place. I would not suggest you put any kind of jumper on it. You can certainly manually light the unit. If it's a newer Parlour operating on a thermostat to go on/off as heat is called for than that feature would be obsolete. But, if you manually control the heat output on your model should be no problem. For reference, here are the Parlour igniters: pellethead.com/product-category/stove-parts-accessories/stove-parts/electrical/igniters-electrical/?model=38283 For reference, here is our firestarter gel: pellethead.com/product/aw-perkins-gel-flame-firestarter-liquid-kindling-fire-starter-32-oz/ Any other questions please let us know. Thanks!

[@danielhunt6778]

Thanks for the video. What would be the one range for a comfort bilt stove. TIA dan

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for the message Dan. Unfortunately the Comfortbilt igniter is not one we have ever carried and wouldn't know the proper ohm range for that one. Best bet would be to contact Comfortbilt directly for that information, here is there contact page comfortbilt.net/pages/contact-us Sorry we couldn't be of further assistance. Thanks.

[@garywitkowski5392]

What is the ohm reading on my igniter supposed to be for a Quadrafire Mt Vernon pellet stove?

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for reaching out Gary. If you have the original 4 speed Mt Vernon that would have come with a 300 watt Loop igniter. Optimal Ohm draw would be 43.5 - 53.5. If you have the Mt Vernon AE or E2, the factory igniter would have been the 380 watt. Optimal ohm draw on that loop igniter will be 35.5 - 43.5. Any other questions please let us know.

[@garywitkowski5392]

My Vernon door gaskets are good n sealed. Red light calling for pellets to feed n they do. The igniter is red hot and the combustion blower is on. Pellets will not ignite😩. Thoughts please?

[@EarthSense]

@@garywitkowski5392 Thanks for the details Gary. Somewhere we have an air loss. Let's check the simple things first. -Let's make all holes in the burnpot are open. -Let's make sure the 'porkchop' burnpot bottom is tight and closing all the way - If there is a gasket seal on your ash pan let's insure that is tight. -Let's inspect the air intake passageway to the burnpot to ensure there are no obstructions. - Let's use a multi-meter and check combustion fan voltage - should be near line voltage on start-up. Let us know what you find, happy to assist. Thanks!

[@garywitkowski5392]

@@EarthSense all good. Igniter was bad but was glowing hot. I guess not enough ohm which tells me it was getting weak. Enough said so I decided to replace the igniter and ta-dah it is working and fired right up. Thank you for your great support and expertise!!!

[@EarthSense]

@@garywitkowski5392 Fantastic to hear Gary! You are most welcome. Yes, that's a great note; even though an igniter may me glowing hot, it may be outside of the ohm range giving ignition troubles. Very glad to hear you are back up and running! Any other questions on the Mt Vernon let us know!

[@abrahamrodriguez3240]

I have a classic bay insert that's not getting power to the igniter. I have to cut the igniter leads, cut an extension cord, tape them together, plug it into a 110 outlet until the pellets ignite then unplug it. Everything else works fine; the blower, the pellet feed, the thermostat. Any help?

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for the message, happy to help. I do think it's important that we check the ohms on the igniter. Direct line voltage from the wall will provide a different charge to that element then the control box will. If you have the CB1200i you most likely have the 300 watt loop igniter in place. That igniter should have a range of 43.5 - 53.5 ohms. If it's above or below those numbers, there are going to be issues with it lighting normally in start-up sequence. If you have the multi-fuel 380 watt loop igniter, that should have a range of 35.5 - 43.5. If the igniter is in operable ohm range then generally speaking it would be an issue inside the control box circuit board. If it does happen to be a board issue sometimes those can be repaired by a local electronics shop/specialist. Here is the replacement board for reference along with the igniter options. Keep us posted. Thanks, Control Box:pellethead.com/product/quadrafire-control-box-3-speed-circuit-board-oem/ Loop Igniters: pellethead.com/?s=quadrafire+loop+igniter

[@abrahamrodriguez3240]

@@EarthSense Thank you so much for your prompt response. I will go ahead and check the igniter(s) to see if I have the proper resistance. In the meantime, where is the control box located? If it's behind the stove can I pull the stove out far enough to get to it? I have checked the two black wire leads to the igniter and there is no power there. It does seem strange that everything else works. Thanks again for your help. I'm encouraged. Abe

[@EarthSense]

@@abrahamrodriguez3240 Thanks Abe, happy to assist. I believe on the 1200i the control box is located behind one of your panel wings on either the left or right. The Control Box will be inserted into the junction box right where your thermostat terminal area is located. Yeah there should be power coming from those wires during the start-up cycle. Double check those wire points into the junction box. Make sure there are no splits or issues with the wires.

[@drewcrandall3887]

Great videos! I have an Enviro Milan insert that started flashing a #4 light at me when I started it up for the first time this season. The manual doesn't mention a #4 error code, but my understanding is that it's a problem with the vacuum. I bypassed the vacuum switch, and pellets started to drop, but would not ignite. I just got a bunch of smoke in my house, which is unusual, and I suspect may indicate a problem with the exhaust blower. I replaced a bunch of gaskets that probably didn't need to be replaced, and my chimney was cleaned last week. I used a multimeter to test the igniter, exhaust fan, and convection fan. The only setting on the multimeter that would give me any readings was the ohm setting. I'm wondering if you can help me understand them: igniter: .036; exhaust: .005; combustion: .018. I also gave the vacuum tube a suck and didn't hear the click I've been hearing about. Where does this leave me? - Drew

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for your message Drew. With everything you mentioned, we definitely need to take a closer look at your exhaust motor. Can you use your multi-meter to check Voltage readings? That's what we need to look at on the exhaust motor. During start-up it should be near line voltage (100-120volts) to lock in the vacuum switch and provide adequate air for ignition. Let us know if you are able to check voltage on the motor. Thanks!

[@drewcrandall3887]

@@EarthSense Thanks for getting back to me so quickly! I have the multimeter, but I'm not quite sure how to perform this test properly. As I mentioned earlier, I only get a measurement in ohms. The voltage setting doesn't give me a reading. Does the stove have to be on to measure voltage? Am I doing something wrong?

[@EarthSense]

@@drewcrandall3887 Thanks Drew, Yes the stove has to be on for you to get a voltage reading from the exhaust motor. Keep us posted if you are able to do this.

[@drewcrandall3887]

I was able to detect a strong 118V getting to the exhaust motor. When I gave it a bench test, it seemed to be in decent working order. What's next?

[@EarthSense]

@@drewcrandall3887 Thanks Drew, glad you were able to determine the exhaust motor is running at proper voltage. Check all ash access points in the stove and and check the venting. Ensuring everything is clean is very important for the vac switch to lock in and igniter to light the pellets. From there you may need to contact the factory technicians and get there insight around the issue.

[@DavidSalazar-wi7hg]

I'm asking if my wiring is old and don't have a ground is that ok

[@EarthSense]

Hey David, thanks for the message. If your unit doesn't have a lead ground wire from the wire harness coming to the component and the part/component has a ground, you can just leave it disconnected or you could create an extension to the ground wire and ground it to any metal on the stove body. We highly suggest a surge protector is in place to protect in the event of a power surge. Any other questions please let us know. Thanks! Reference: pellethead.com/product/belkin-surgecube-outlet-surge-protector-1080-joules/

[@kenovrebo9807]

Can you tell me the ohm range for the ignitor on an Enviro Mini pellet stove? Thanks!

[@EarthSense]

Hey Ken, the 400 watt igniter used in the Enviro Mini should be 32.5 - 39.0 ohms for optimum draw. Let us know what you find, here is one of the replacement igniters for reference. pellethead.com/product/enviro-vistaflame-igniter-starter-element-aftermarket/

[@kennethtrent9972]

I replaced the igniter in my kp130pellet stove igniter will not get red

[@EarthSense]

Hey Kenneth, That's the King Pellet 130 correct? I would suggest you do an ohm test on the igniter first. I know it's brand new, but we do want to make sure it is in proper firing range. It's rare that a brand new igniter is bad, however we have run into that before. If the igniter is verified to be good, then I would say it has something to do with the ignition timing cycle in the circuit board. If that is the case I would suggest you reach out to the manufacturer, and see what options there may be to repair. Any other questions please let us know. Thanks!

[@gina4319]

Dude My King pellet stove igniter constantly stays on, even after shutdown mode completes it still glowing red-hot. any info much appreciated

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for the message Gina. Sounds like the circuit board is giving continuous charge to the igniter element. The element is going to burn out very shortly staying on constantly. My suggestion would be to contact USSC (United States Stove Company) The King models are apart of their line. Possibly the circuit board ignition timing cycle could be repaired. www.usstove.com/support/ Hope that is helpful!

[@mikeheisz6654]

Do you know ohms for a king pellet stove. 5500m. ?

[@EarthSense]

Apologies on the delay Mike. Operable OHM Range on the King 5500m Igniter will be 57-65 ohms. Any other questions please let us know. Thanks!

[@mreid9164]

Pellet stove troubleshooting 101...Are pellets hot on start up....yes?....air flow issue....pellets cold on start up? ignitor issue....again very basic troubleshooting here from experience

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for your comment and input. Any questions please let us know. Appreciated.

[@dannyschacht4274]

the Ohms for the ignitor was 82.5 and when i switch the polarities on the meter it was 67.8--68.4 ohms. Aftermarket range 55.0--60.0, Import range 54.5--63.0 So, I ordered one from you site.

[@EarthSense]

Yeah, sometimes the igniter can be glowing and yet not be in operable range to properly ignite. We have seen this several times. Really appreciate your business, reach back out once the igniter arrives and you have it installed. We'll make sure everything is 100%. Thanks!

[@dannyschacht4274]

@@EarthSense The igniter arrived. The glaring questions are: can the igniter be replaced without removing the convection fan? If I need to remove the fan, does it need to be "resealed" in any manner? Is the plenum attached to the fan?

[@EarthSense]

@@dannyschacht4274 Hey Danny, glad the igniter arrived. Please remind me again of which stove model you have. In most stoves the convection fan is not sealed, it simply is placed/installed by the air manifold/plenum in the stove for air distribution. Refresh me again on your stove model and I can provide more specifics. Appreciated!

[@dannyschacht4274]

@@EarthSense Yeah, it's an Avalon Newport PS. Quick question: is there a place I can get an "explosion" diagram of my stove. My owner's manual doesn't have on. Thanks for all your help

[@dannyschacht4274]

@@EarthSense one other think, my igniter has a plate attached, but what I've received doesn't...

[@knoxtrail5412]

I have a Winslow ps40 the igniter died I ordered a replacement igniter. The control board is in the off position. As soon as I connect the leads for the igniter the ignitor is coming on with the control board in off position.

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us. It sounds like the igniter is receiving a direct electrical charge from the circuit board. I messaged our key technician to get his insight. Let's unplug the stove and closely check the circuit board - look for any burns/chars/marks. Was there anything odd when the previous igniter died/failed? I'll follow up as soon as I hear from our tech. Thanks!

[@knoxtrail5412]

@@EarthSense igniter fuse blew. Then replace fuse, and igniter wouldn't work. took out igniter ran direct current to igniter.. element was not working. ordered replacement installed it now has constant power with switch off. will have to look at inside of board see if anything looks toasted. All other functions in stove are operating properly other than the direct power to ignitor

[@EarthSense]

@@knoxtrail5412 OK, thanks for the details. I'll follow up as soon as I hear from tech support. Thanks.

[@knoxtrail5412]

@@EarthSense nothing out of the ordinary looking on the board FYI. thank you

[@EarthSense]

@@knoxtrail5412 Thanks for the update. Should hear back from the technical team on Monday and will follow up. Appreciated.

[@josephstarkey3540]

I don't see ant link for ohm stats. Where is it?

[@EarthSense]

Joseph, We have a general OHM breakdown list in the description of the video. You can also let us know your make and model and we can see if we have the stats on it. Thanks!

[@raybruneski3931]

Thanks for all the great information. You guys are awesome!

[@EarthSense]

Great to hear it was helpful Ray, thank you! Any future questions just let us know.

[@raybruneski3931]

@@EarthSense I'm from Canada and we have 7 Harman pellet stoves in operation. Glad I found you guys. I just placed a large order for parts from you. We'll see how it goes at the border for customs. Can be a pain sometimes. Thanks.

[@EarthSense]

@@raybruneski3931 7 WOW! That's awesome! Really appreciate your business and happy to help however we can. We ship to Canada very frequently; should be smooth. Any issues or questions keep us posted. Thanks again!

[@jimmyp6443]

Harmon accentra insert igniter element part number 3-20-677200 What should be resistance ?

[@EarthSense]

Hey Jimmy, thanks for the message. Ohm resistance for the Accentra Insert Igniter should be providing a reading of 45.0 - 53.0 in optimal range. Any other questions please let us know. Thanks.

[@jimmyp6443]

@@EarthSense thank you ,original igniter 7 years old ,first problem I had with this Harmon stove ,thank you again

[@EarthSense]

@@jimmyp6443 Absolutely Jimmy, happy to assist. The Accentra Insert is a great unit. If you have any future questions or need parts links for reference just let us know.

[@johnie19644]

My Harmon acentra lights but it takes 17 to 20 minutes to light it use to light a lot faster do the igniters become weak and take longer to light

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us, happy to help. In some cases igniters will simply burn out, in other cases they can simply get weak. The finned igniter in your Accentra should have an ohm reading of 45.0-53.0 ohms to be in proper range. Let's start there and see what kind of an ohm reading you are receiving. Keep us posted, thanks!

[@johnie19644]

@@EarthSense thank you I’ll check it this weekend when I clean the stove

[@EarthSense]

@@johnie19644 Sounds good John, keep us posted. Thanks!

[@johnie19644]

@@EarthSense I just took it out I’ll check it in the morning at work thank you

[@EarthSense]

@@johnie19644 Excellent John! Glad we can help!

[@johnmeye]

Great presentation, very helpful, thanks!

[@EarthSense]

Thanks John! Very glad it was helpful. Any questions just let us know.

[@johnmeye]

@@EarthSense The igniter worked after I followed your recommendations😉

[@EarthSense]

@@johnmeye That's Fantastic! Thanks for sharing!

[@davidskipperskip5403]

I put a 5 amp breaker in line so it doesn't burn my igniter out because of dirt or other related problems. See if it works.

[@EarthSense]

Thanks David, keep us posted how that works on your model. Whitfield stoves with ignition had an inline fuse on the igniter wires. Not sure of others that may have had that, but in my eyes it should be a helpful preventive. Thanks!

[@markfogel4305]

Can you bypass the igniter

[@EarthSense]

Hey Mark, Let us know what you are trying to do and on what stove make and model. A person can leave the igniter disconnected and manually light the fire. We can check the igniter ohms to determine if the element is good or bad. If the element is in proper range but the stove is not lighting, there are a couple areas we can look at to diagnose where the issue is. Happy to help!

[@blakewill1933]

If Johnny Depp was a HVAC guy.... nice info.

[@EarthSense]

LOL Good stuff! Glad the info was helpful, if you have any questions down the line just let us know. Thanks!

[@michaelburgess5526]

Excellent Video! Thanks

[@chipispowdercoatingcharles8444]

Great information

[@EarthSense]

Thanks so much! Glad it was helpful!

[@JeffGriffin-f8g]

The heating element does not get hot at all

[@EarthSense]

It's still good to check the ohms of the element. Quickest way to find out if it's a bad igniter or something else creating the issue. If you need further help just let us know more details. Thanks,

[@danthurman9076]

If the ignitor ohms out above 86 ohms replace it.

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for the message. There are many different igniters that are used in pellet stoves. The OHM range can vary greatly between different igniter elements. Most have about a 10 point mark to be in optimal range. If OHMS read above or below that range, there is generally ignition issues and the igniter needs to be replaced. Here is a blog that will cover the OHM range for some of the most popular pellet stove igniters. pellethead.com/how-to-test-and-replace-a-stove-igniter-pellet-stove-ignition-troubleshooting/ Any additional help or assistance just let us know. Thanks.

[@TMichaelJKnivestmichaeljknives]

Awesome thanks

[@ataylor7682]

My igniter doesn’t glow

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us Anthony. Suggesting to do an OHM test to see if the igniter is in proper range. If the igniter is out of range then it will be the element itself. If the igniter is in range, then we will want to test and check the electrical connection wires going to the igniter. Happy to help, specifics on your make and model will be helpful if you need further assistance. Thanks,

[@ArunKumar-ir7pg]

Hi, I am from India. I am trying to use the igniter for a completely different purpose. Can you share your email ID, so I can seek your advice without putting it out in public .. ? Thanks Arun Kumar

[@EarthSense]

Sure thing Arun. Here is our general contact page for phone, email and live chat. pellethead.com/contact-us/ Thanks!

[@Poncho758]

Dude you could’ve done that in about two minutes his whole dissertation

[@EarthSense]

I like to be thorough. Hope you found something helpful with the video.

[@davidrebeck9281]

Hi I have quadra fire mt vernon pellet stove advanced energy, the ignitor doesn't glow. It has been changed and still doesn't glow. Is there any other tips to try?

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us David. Just to make 100% sure, let's do an ohm read on the igniter to make sure it's in proper range. Let's also double check the connection points and make sure they are secure. If we are still having issues, I can touch base with our lead techs to see what next steps would be for the Mt Vernon AE.

[@davidrebeck9281]

@@EarthSense yes I have she was have trouble with the cash door opening and this and now the doors working but but the ignition switch not geting hot

[@EarthSense]

@@davidrebeck9281 Thanks David. Checking in with our techs on this. Are you getting any kind of a reading or error code on the wall control?

[@EarthSense]

@@davidrebeck9281 Hey David, just heard back from our tech team, they suggested: A common issue is that the igniter will short out and damage the circuit on the corner of the board where it plugs in. Have them remove the mother board and take the black plastic clamshell off of the board and check that corner for burns or damage. Also there is a fuse for the igniter circuit on that corner of the board so check that as well as that may have popped. Let us know what you find.

[@davidrebeck9281]

Thank u guys so much I dont know ant thang about them she just lost her husband and then this but I got it thank u so much it was the clamps was not geting a good connection

[@thomascox8684]

What is ohm range for igniter on Avalon Newport pellet stove?

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us. We only offer aftermarket options for the Avalon Newport Igniter. Aftermarket Range is 54.5 - 63.0. The OEM igniter may be different than that however, and you would most likely have to reach out to the factory direct to get that ohm range.

[@MrWeezy1976]

I have a Pleasant Hearth PHCAB50PS that doesn't ignite this year. The stove and exhaust is clean. I've replaced the ambient temp probe and the ignitor. Still won't ignite. Auger feeds pellets as it should. I've checked both old and new ignitor both test at 51-52 ohms. The ignitor is heating but the fire pot can still be touched after failing to ignite. What could be the issue? I've called GHP and they are at a loss for words or suggestions. The stove is about 8 months out of warranty now. Any suggestions?

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us, happy to assist. It does sound like your igniters are in operable range and are receiving input from the control board to turn on during start-up sequence. Keep in mind that it is not the igniter lighting the pellets, but the super heated air rushing around the igniter. Let's take a close look at your exhaust motor operation. If you have a multi-meter, let's check the voltage during start-up. Should be near line voltage. From there let's make sure your gasket seals are tight on all doors and give a thorough inspection to the burnpot and burnpot bottom to make sure we don't have gaps or air leaks. Inspect the air intake to the burnpot as well. If there is any loss of combustion air it will create this issue. Let us know what you find, happy to assist. Thanks,

[@MrWeezy1976]

@@EarthSense I tested the voltage on the exhaust fan and it reads 115.5 volts at start up. I removed the exhaust fan and cleaned it thoroughly. Wasnt really that dirty. Spins freely. Replaced the exhaust fan gasket. Still receiving the still error codes. First is 3 flashes indicating ambient temp probe (been replaced). It cycles again and flashes 4 times indicating failure to ignite. Burn pot is spotless clean and warm to the touch but not to hot to handle. Its almost as if the ignitor isn't hot enough.

[@EarthSense]

@@MrWeezy1976 Thanks for the message back. Glad you checked the exhaust motor and everything is looking tip top there. Do you know what igniter you put in there? Either wattage or part number? There is a pellet only igniter and a multi-fuel igniter. They differ in the optimal ohm range. You originally mentioned reads of 51/52 ohms which would be operable range for one but not the other. Let's make sure that igniter is in proper ohm range. From there we need to make sure all door gasket seals are tight and let's double check the air intake tube coming into the unit to ensure it's free and clear. It either has to be the igniter out of range or somewhere we have an air blockage or an air loss issue. Keep us posted, happy to help.

[@MrWeezy1976]

@@EarthSense I ran a lighter around the closed door to see if it would draft the flame...it did not. The intake is free and clear. I purchased the ignitor directly from GHP part# SRV7000-660m

[@MrWeezy1976]

Should there be any air movement around the exhaust fan?