Persolaise Love At First Scent 20 - live perfume reviews - feat. Hermes, Guerlain, Serge Lutens

Episode 20 of Love At First Scent
This was a Facebook Live broadcast streamed on Friday 7th September 2018. Unscripted. Unedited. Unrehearsed.
Perfumes covered in this video include:
Musc Noble from Guerlain (at the start of the video; see important note below)
Le Participe Passé from Serge Lutens (at the 14:00 minute mark)
Terre D’Hermès Eau Intense Vetiver from Hermès (at the 25:00 minute mark)
Trente-Quatre Boulevard Saint Germain from Diptyque (at the 54:00 minute mark)
there was also a mention of
Papyrus Oud from Parle Moi De Parfum (at the 52:00 minute mark)
and the classic scent was
Miss Dior from Christian Dior (at the 39:00 minute mark)
[Samples of all of the above provided by the brands, except for the Dior, which is from my personal collection]
-
Blotter update:
I now realise that I made a mistake about the Guerlain: it is, of course, the fourth in their Absolus D'Orient series, not the third. There's also something suspiciously familiar about it... and many of you will be aware that Guerlain are not averse to re-issuing older, discontinued fragrances under a different name. Musc Noble reminds me strongly of one of the original Deserts D'Orient scents (probably the Encens) although I'd say this new iteration is smoother. All that aside, on the blotter, its saffron note is fading, to be replaced by a none-too-appetising animalic facet. Not sure 'noble' is the right adjective here, really.
The Lutens is pretty much as it was at the start: a huge labdanum, drawn in primary colours of almost child-like boldness.
The Hermes is going strong with its vetiver. I remain sceptical about whether we need this release, but as I said in the video, those who found the original Terre too cold and clinical will enjoy this.
The Diptyque is most intriguing: an abstract play on woods and snow; cedar trees fashioned from ice, a la some Disney fantasy. Very interesting work.
And Miss Dior... well, she's doing just fine: bitter, mossy, woody, inky... and brimming with attitude.
Thanks very much indeed for watching!
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Persolaise is not affiliated in any way to any brands, wholesalers, retailers or organisations involved with the fragrance industry. All reviews are entirely independent. Content is never 'sponsored' by any external agencies. Some reviews are based on samples provided by brands; others are based on samples obtained by the author. This has no bearing on the content of the reviews.
Copyright © 2018 Dariush Alavi and Parfums Persolaise. All rights reserved.

[@chrisr850]

New subscriber! Loved this livestream! You are clearly not a novice as a fragrance enthusiast, you are extremely well versed and knowledgeable. You consistently interact with the comments and you’re genuinely funny as well as professional and pleasant. I don’t see any flaws in your content, bravo! Disappointed I did not find your channel sooner.

[@Persolaise]

Bruton Gaster Welcome aboard. And spread the word 😊 Thanks very much indeed for your enthusiasm and for taking the time to write. I genuinely appreciate it.

[@perfumistarachie5878]

Your comtemplation is always so fascinating - the way you discuss the Lutens phases is so insightful!

[@Persolaise]

Thanks very much. And thanks for taking the time to leave a comment!

[@-HRH]

The way you described the Lutens as an impenetrable, inscrutable, ponderous block (or brick) of scent reminded me of how Katie Puckrick described Opium in one of her videos. Great minds think alike. 👍

[@Persolaise]

HRH Oooh, compared to the queen herself. Thank you 😉 And thanks very much for watching.

[@vandebloom9997]

What a beautiful, VEGETAL shirt you were wearing! 😍😁 I missed too many episodes but finally found the time to tune in tonight, was curious about the new Guerlain and the Hermes! Thanks for another insightful and hilarious episode!

[@Persolaise]

Not at all, thank YOU for watching and writing. Did the Guerlain and Hermes take your fancy?

[@FabiWe91]

Thank you so much for featuring Miss Dior! It was very interesting to hear your thoughts on her and I'm glad you grew to like her in the process of revisiting. I only know and own the current EdT Originale version and I like it for its distant sophistication. Great perfume to boost your confidence in challenging situations at work etc.

[@Persolaise]

Thank you for the suggestion and for watching. Yes, the current Originale version is just fine, I think.

[@elizabethchurch6969]

Leg slapping, Oh, Diptyque, you scoundrel! I laughed so hard with that press release and commentary, I still have tears in my eyes! Bravo Good Sir! Bravo!

[@Persolaise]

I can't even remember it now, but thanks for watching.

[@gabrielgarcia7561]

Great review, I've enjoyed all of the bottle picks, I wish you could find the first dyptique L'Eau, and the current formula, thanks for pointing the parlez moi house also the new oud of lutens... 🦋

[@Persolaise]

Gabriel Garcia Thanks very much indeed for watching... and for the suggestions! I’ll definitely try to get hold of the Lutens.

[@ashfaque_1]

This Dyptique PR sounded like an "Analytical Writing" section from GRE test. RFOL! Thanks Mr P.

[@Persolaise]

Ha! Thanks for watching :-)

[@ztiwar]

funny I just purchased Musc Noble & love it,best in this line.So relieved cause I was starting to lose hope in my beloved Guerlain.Always enjoy your take on fragrances so pls keep the content coming & wear all your fragrances in good health!

[@Persolaise]

Thanks very much indeed for the lovely message: good health to you too!

[@seenthrough]

Just discovered your channel a year after this video - was looking for reviews of that Diptyque EDP. Your “what tf is happening” face when reading off the press release was killing me. Subscribed!!

[@Persolaise]

😂 Thanks very much for watching and for subscribing. Welcome aboard.

[@justmissh.405]

Greetings from Haiti! Thank you so much for your videos. I enjoyed everyone of them (at least the ones I've watched so far). I had Miss Dior Cherie EDP years ago. But it was too strong for me. But I finally got my hands on Miss Dior Cherie l'Eau. Loved it so much!!! Suited me better. But I wish that they had kept that bottle you shown in the video. Really nice :). I'd be curious to smell it. Thanks again and see you next time.

[@Persolaise]

Haiti, wow! Thanks for letting me know, and for taking the time to write. So many Miss Dior versions. I've completely lost track.

[@mysterybeta]

Episode 20 already, *sigh*. My daily retrospective Love at First Scent fix is coming to a close :( Thanks for the edu-tainment! Learning a lot :)

[@Persolaise]

MYSTERYFORMS Beta I’m so pleased to read that, thank you. And I promise to do another episode soon 😉

[@BriezyFragrance]

Yay! You covered the Serge Lutens! Sounds like it’ll be right up my street. Must seek it out 😊

[@Persolaise]

Absolutely 😊 Thanks for watching and for writing.

[@fromtoptobottomp]

Thanks for another great episode. I initially liked the new Lutens but found it far too strong and long lasting in the end. Four showers later and it was still hanging around. Re vetiver perfumes the one that I also go back to as my gold standard is Vetiver Extraordinaire.

[@Persolaise]

Michael M Thanks very much indeed for watching, Michael. I do appreciate it. Yes, *too* long-lasting can be a problem as well, can’t it. It isn’t easy to get tenacity right.

[@zm9771]

Thank you so much for your reviews, through your “nose” i’m discovering a whole new world! I’m curious as to your thoughts on the Narcisco Rodriguez “for her” and “florabotanica” from balmain?

[@Persolaise]

z m That’s really kind; thanks very much for watching. Here’s a link to all the reviews on my site. You’ll find Florabotanica as well as at least one version of For Her: persolaise.blogspot.com/p/perfume-reviews.html

[@Flaconesse]

Oh wow great, Miss Dior is the first perfume I am thinking of when it comes to chypres. Still own a mini from the 90ies. It's quite interesting how quick times have changed. Couldn't name one designer perfume for women from the last 2 years that is so unsweet, even male perfumes nowadays are much sweeter than miss dior. High sugared times. I think I shold write a blog on this! 😄

[@Persolaise]

Yes - sweetness is much in demand. Even when it comes to musks, sweetness is highly favoured as a facet. Treasure your Miss Dior!

[@johndavid4007]

I've NEVER heard anyone say that Guerlain's Vetiver turns bad on them, and I've always wondered if it was just me. It doesn't "turn" bad so much as, from the very start, it has this overly fougere-like, metallic, medicinal quality that just makes it seem more than a bit dated. I've really been looking for a more updated, casual-smelling vetiver and tried Malle's Vetiver Extraordinaire in hopes of finding it. That didn't work either, being too light and powdery. If you (or anyone else) has recommendations, I'd love to read about them. Thanks!

[@Persolaise]

John David Thanks very much for watching, John. Yes, I’m not sure I’d say turns ‘bad’: it just emphasises the natural qualities of vetivert, which can be read as fairly sweaty by some. Have you tried the vetivert in the Hermessence range?

[@johndavid4007]

No, I can't say that I have. But I've also heard that many of the perfumes in that line don't last long. I don't need a huge performer, but I was under the impression they performed more like EDCs. Also, the price range ... eh. Again, not exactly hunting in the bargain bin over here, but a nice vetiver-forward citrus (or something similar) under $100 or so shouldn't be too hard to find. Inexpensive ingredients, inexpensive perfume, right? (I know, I know ... wishful thinking.)

[@Persolaise]

John David Well, yes, the Hermessence aren’t cheap. But I think the longevity of most of them is perfectly fine. This may sound like an obvious thing to say but what about the original Terre? As a clean vetivert, it’s superb.

[@SPACEDOUT19]

I think cedarwood is very vertical and sharp, nothing round and cloudy and soft about it. I will blind buy Musc Noble, cause i love a nice rose-musk combination, hope its similar to Encens Mythique

[@Persolaise]

I hope you enjoy it.

[@Furriner]

I know you haven't been thrilled with the Section d'Or line, but you should try Bourreau des Fleurs. It's the most excited I've been about a Serge in a while. It's actually kind of similar to Le Participe Passé (and also, in a way, to L'Innommable). I've been meaning to compare all three but actually haven't gotten around to it yet. Although everyone mentions the immortelle in BdF, I don't really get it at all. Strong on the charred woods, it's almost skanky in a way. Anyway, I'd be curious what you thought.

[@Persolaise]

Oh, okay, I shall try to seek it out, thanks for the suggestion. And thanks very much for watching.

[@yelenakesselman5868]

Thank you for this - amazing as usual! What are your thoughts on Gaultier’s Scandal By Night?

[@Persolaise]

Thank you for watching. The Gaultier gets a huge thumbs down from me. Sorry!

[@Curdle7]

Thumbs down can also be from people on mobile phone because mobile KZbin will thumbs videos down random videos all the time and I don’t know it has until I rewatch a video and see it got voted down by my phone

[@Persolaise]

Ah, good point, I never considered that. Mind you, they could also be because people genuinely don't like the video :-)

[@-HRH]

Superb video as always, D! Question…what do you do with the floods of fragrances you don’t want-and can I give you my address? 😁

[@Persolaise]

HRH That’s very kind, thank you. And what can I say 😂 I have a massive family!

[@FragrantVenerations]

Woody and vegetal it is then!

[@Persolaise]

Thanks for watching.

[@angelajuneholmes4933]

L’heure bleue is sublime but never had the pleasure to smell on a man .

[@Persolaise]

First time for everything!

[@angelajuneholmes4933]

Persolaise Perfumes I hope one day it will be happen .